Guys, i need a sanity check on this one, but even beter a repro from you: tried today to power an (Eunavi) LM unit (PX5, 4/32GB, Android 8) on a bench, using gnd/gnd, red+yellow on 12V and nothing happened. Tried with an Xtrons with external canbus and it powered up without issues.
The Eunavi is a slim format, double-fakra radio input, built-in usb ports..all good so far but the difference to other units is that the canbus is embedded into the power socket. The car harness plugs directly into the unit, there is no in-between harness (with attached canbus box) anymore on this one.
The unit is this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Eun...-Stereo-GPS-for-VW-Passat-B6/32866279122.html
We hooked the unit to the car harness and it lighted up the buttons straight away on key half-turn. On the bench: nothing. We're trying to un-brick a MCU using @Wadzio 's SM32 flash tutorial but apparently there's an unexpected problem to power it outside the car?!
You need to move the dip switches on the back, you also need to take the SoM out to confirm whether its the SoM or the MCU.
typos1 said:
You need to move the dip switches on the back, you also need to take the SoM out to confirm whether its the SoM or the MCU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what dipswitches? is there a px5 board diagram somewhere? also had issues locating SoM pin 20.
we thought of swapping the SoM but there's a risk that the unit (maybe with faulty mcu config) will fry the good board as well?! We'll try with the LM SoM in the Xtrons, the other way around.
zerozoneice said:
what dipswitches? is there a px5 board diagram somewhere? also had issues locating SoM pin 20.
we thought of swapping the SoM but there's a risk that the unit (maybe with faulty mcu config) will fry the good board as well?! We'll try with the LM SoM in the Xtrons, the other way around.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally LM units with built in CAN Bus have 4 dip switches to turn it on and off, although someone posted a few weeks back that their unit did not.
Yes, try the other way round.
typos1 said:
Normally LM units with built in CAN Bus have 4 dip switches to turn it on and off, although someone posted a few weeks back that their unit did not.
Yes, try the other way round.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
on the power socket part (black) there's no switches, maybe inside it? But it looks as one piece, nothing to take apart...we didn't notice any dips on the board either.
zerozoneice said:
on the power socket part (black) there's no switches, maybe inside it? But it looks as one piece, nothing to take apart...we didn't notice any dips on the board either.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You wouldnt see them on the board, they were on the back, guess theyve stopped putting them on.
apparently a german forum also confirms that this unit won't boot outside a car.
we just tried to write the MCU block using wadzio's thread (but with another programmer) and apparently the last few lines fail to write. They end up in fffffffff
question: address block up to 0x800000 holds the bootrom? if we force erase the chip, only the block beyond 0x8 will be erased, yes? no danger in messing up the bootrom here?
zerozoneice said:
apparently a german forum also confirms that this unit won't boot outside a car.
we just tried to write the MCU block using wadzio's thread (but with another programmer) and apparently the last few lines fail to write. They end up in fffffffff
question: address block up to 0x800000 holds the bootrom? if we force erase the chip, only the block beyond 0x8 will be erased, yes? no danger in messing up the bootrom here?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That makes sense if theyve removed all CAN Bus controls.
I think you should have tried swapping the SoMs first to confirm whether it was the SoM or the MCU, as I ve said I think its more likely to be the SoM.
typos1 said:
That makes sense if theyve removed all CAN Bus controls.
I think you should have tried swapping the SoMs first to confirm whether it was the SoM or the MCU, as I ve said I think its more likely to be the SoM.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i can still do that, put the LM SoM into the Xtrons...
bought a ST-link v2 programmer, we'll try with that tomorrow.
somehow i don't think it's the SoM because until the LM had to do a cold boot (was in deep sleep), i even saw the screen for 10 sec or so and could operate it normally (touch ok, buttons ok, sound ok). That's not a sign of a dead or shorted SoM....but who can be sure? But now since i unplugged it from car harness, it has to cold boot and never makes it.
what do u mean by "makes sense"? that it fails writing its own mcu image (which should have missing controls anyway)? I am using the official v3.06 MTCE_LM mcu file...not GS or HA or whatever, which operate "classic" canbus dongle units
zerozoneice said:
i can still do that, put the LM SoM into the Xtrons...
bought a ST-link v2 programmer, we'll try with that tomorrow.
somehow i don't think it's the SoM because until the LM had to do a cold boot (was in deep sleep), i even saw the screen for 10 sec or so and could operate it normally (touch ok, buttons ok, sound ok). That's not a sign of a dead or shorted SoM....but who can be sure? But now since i unplugged it from car harness, it has to cold boot and never makes it.
what do u mean by "makes sense"? that it fails writing its own mcu image (which should have missing controls anyway)? I am using the official v3.06 MTCE_LM mcu file...not GS or HA or whatever, which operate "classic" canbus dongle units
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe, but I would have swapped SoMs to see if it was the SoM before I started trying to do stuff to the MCU.
typos1 said:
Maybe, but I would have swapped SoMs to see if it was the SoM before I started trying to do stuff to the MCU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
we just swapped the SoM and it booted fine on the Xtrons. No issues. The LM SoM is ok.
now the only focus is the MCU, we'll try again with the st-link v2 writer
zerozoneice said:
we just swapped the SoM and it booted fine on the Xtrons. No issues. The LM SoM is ok.
now the only focus is the MCU, we'll try again with the st-link v2 writer
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, at least you know exactly which isnt working now.
typos1 said:
Ok, at least you know exactly which isnt working now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
we were 99% sure even before, a crapped SoM won't allow fastboot with full navigation & touch capabilities..for a WHOLE 15 seconds and then issue a controlled graceful shutdown command but hey, can't beat 100% now. Took the opportunity to wipe/reset the LM SoM in the process, no traces of google account left in case unit needs to be sent for replacement.
what's disturbing is the failure to write the MCU code fully..it craps out sometimes last 3 lines, sometimes last 4 or last 2....no more trials today but tomorrow st-link v2 will be used. The UART method is more complicated, will be last resort. Any ideas/suggestions on the failed writes? Could the .bin be corrupted? Used a 3.06 dmcu.img, we have also the 3.01 version to try with but shouldn't make a difference i think.
zerozoneice said:
we were 99% sure even before, a crapped SoM won't allow fastboot with full navigation & touch capabilities..for a WHOLE 15 seconds and then issue a controlled graceful shutdown command but hey, can't beat 100% now. Took the opportunity to wipe/reset the LM SoM in the process, no traces of google account left in case unit needs to be sent for replacement.
what's disturbing is the failure to write the MCU code fully..it craps out sometimes last 3 lines, sometimes last 4 or last 2....no more trials today but tomorrow st-link v2 will be used. The UART method is more complicated, will be last resort. Any ideas/suggestions on the failed writes? Could the .bin be corrupted? Used a 3.06 dmcu.img, we have also the 3.01 version to try with but shouldn't make a difference i think.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I ve known SoMs to suddenly die so it could have been that, thats why I wasnt so sure it was the SoM, but you were right.
Think I d send it back, take it youve opened it in such as way so as not to break the warranty seal ?
typos1 said:
Well, I ve known SoMs to suddenly die so it could have been that, thats why I wasnt so sure it was the SoM, but you were right.
Think I d send it back, take it youve opened it in such as way so as not to break the warranty seal ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
don't remember seeing any seal on it, so yeah.....
what i'm wondering though is if we can flash just the CFG file on top of existing mcu image on the ST32 MCU chip using the St-link v2 programmer. Normal flashing procedure is the same as flashing a dmcu.img, just place it on sdcard/usb and apply mcu update from it while in android recovery...but usually as a 2nd step after you flashed the actual image.
@Hal9k_, @cs-x(RU), @Wadzio would this be possible?
ok. ST-LINK programmer won't connect / see the ST chip.
tried in all ways: normal, hot plug, connect under reset.
the unit is hooked to external power, but tried also without external power since 3.3.v should be enough to flash, data is listening all the time.
what the hell is going on, what could it be that we can't connect?
read about a certain delay of powering/reset the unit and pressing connect / target erase in the st-link utility?!
https://electronics.stackexchange.c...t-connect-to-mcu-after-successful-programming
can anyone shine some light in here pls?
zerozoneice said:
ok. ST-LINK programmer won't connect / see the ST chip.
tried in all ways: normal, hot plug, connect under reset.
the unit is hooked to external power, but tried also without external power since 3.3.v should be enough to flash, data is listening all the time.
what the hell is going on, what could it be that we can't connect?
read about a certain delay of powering/reset the unit and pressing connect / target erase in the st-link utility?!
https://electronics.stackexchange.c...t-connect-to-mcu-after-successful-programming
can anyone shine some light in here pls?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why dont you just return it ?
typos1 said:
Why dont you just return it ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it's a challenge
but yea, i'll return it after trying everything on it.
we still have the UART method to test.
so, we got around today to try more stuff. On the bench no success.
Then we took the unit to the car and hooked the canbus adapter and tested more there.
The st-link v2 simply cannot connect to the MCU. It gives "cannot connect to target" error over and over. We tried all combos, normal, connect under reset, delayed reset button push and target-erase chip....nothing. Dead.
Then at some point we took out the 3.3V pin and left only gnd/rx/tx and probably waited for more than 5mins so the car cut the current. Turned key half way and the lights on the buttons came on..wtf...but that's it. Never managed to repro again this.
So my guy says this looks like a damaged eeprom, same erratic behavior. So something in the MCU must be damaged somehow.
What's left is the UART TTL method but no high hopes.
Most likely i'll sell the SoM and trash the unit, i don't feel like investing any more time & money into repairs/shipping, etc..
So if anyone needs an upgrade board PX5 4GB/32GB with Android 8, drop a PM.
zerozoneice said:
so, we got around today to try more stuff. On the bench no success.
Then we took the unit to the car and hooked the canbus adapter and tested more there.
The st-link v2 simply cannot connect to the MCU. It gives "cannot connect to target" error over and over. We tried all combos, normal, connect under reset, delayed reset button push and target-erase chip....nothing. Dead.
Then at some point we took out the 3.3V pin and left only gnd/rx/tx and probably waited for more than 5mins so the car cut the current. Turned key half way and the lights on the buttons came on..wtf...but that's it. Never managed to repro again this.
So my guy says this looks like a damaged eeprom, same erratic behavior. So something in the MCU must be damaged somehow.
What's left is the UART TTL method but no high hopes.
Most likely i'll sell the SoM and trash the unit, i don't feel like investing any more time & money into repairs/shipping, etc..
So if anyone needs an upgrade board PX5 4GB/32GB with Android 8, drop a PM.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to hear that.
Where did you get it from, direct from China ?
Related
Hi all,
I had to replace the power button flex board of my i9100, but I made a mistake when soldering, and something shorted and a SMD in the board exploded with a *BANG* and went flying like a bright shooting star. Then came the smell of fried electronics, oh boy, that was horrible! Strangely, I couldn't locate which SMD component exploded, the boards looks fine, even if carefully examined with a 10x magnifier.
I thought the board was completely destroyed. But I fixed the power flex cable soldering, assembled the phone, connected it to the USB charger, and guess what?? The recovery menu appeared, some message appeared and quickly disappeared, and the phone booted normally! Everythting worked: network, wifi, bluetooth, camera, etc. However, the power button didn't work anymore, even now it's properly soldered.
I removed the battery to turn off the phone, but now it doesn't turn on with the button. If I plug it to USB, now it shows the charging battery screen, animated and all, but I can't turn on the phone anymore!
So I ask: does anyone know which SMD components take part in turning the phone on by pressing the power button? I can't find this info in the service manual, but I'm sure it's just a matter of replacing a burnt SMD resistor, capacitor or inductor, since the phone works, I saw it working!
So, does anyone have any info for me, or at least a detailed diagram of the circuitry, so I can find my way into that?
Thank you all in advance!!!
Eduardo
Marcovecchio said:
Hi all,
I had to replace the power button flex board of my i9100, but I made a mistake when soldering, and something shorted and a SMD in the board exploded with a *BANG* and went flying like a bright shooting star. Then came the smell of fried electronics, oh boy, that was horrible! Strangely, I couldn't locate which SMD component exploded, the boards looks fine, even if carefully examined with a 10x magnifier.
I thought the board was completely destroyed. But I fixed the power flex cable soldering, assembled the phone, connected it to the USB charger, and guess what?? The recovery menu appeared, some message appeared and quickly disappeared, and the phone booted normally! Everythting worked: network, wifi, bluetooth, camera, etc. However, the power button didn't work anymore, even now it's properly soldered.
I removed the battery to turn off the phone, but now it doesn't turn on with the button. If I plug it to USB, now it shows the charging battery screen, animated and all, but I can't turn on the phone anymore!
So I ask: does anyone know which SMD components take part in turning the phone on by pressing the power button? I can't find this info in the service manual, but I'm sure it's just a matter of replacing a burnt SMD resistor, capacitor or inductor, since the phone works, I saw it working!
So, does anyone have any info for me, or at least a detailed diagram of the circuitry, so I can find my way into that?
Thank you all in advance!!!
Eduardo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hola Eduardo,
you probably used a too high temperature in the soldering iron.
Google for "56542824-Samsung-GT-i9100-service-manual.pdf" and you will find a good service manual that will guide you on a series of problem.
I doubt that there's a procedure for your specific problem, but you may be able to know what SMD you have to replace.
I wish you luck, and next time make sure that the temperature is low (and eventually use a solder paste!)
robdpi said:
Hola Eduardo,
you probably used a too high temperature in the soldering iron.
Google for "56542824-Samsung-GT-i9100-service-manual.pdf" and you will find a good service manual that will guide you on a series of problem.
I doubt that there's a procedure for your specific problem, but you may be able to know what SMD you have to replace.
I wish you luck, and next time make sure that the temperature is low (and eventually use a solder paste!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply, robdpi!
The soldering iron temperature was ok, I used a 12W Weller micro soldering iron, temperature was not more than 550F / 300C, and I never leave the iron on the work for more than 3 continuous seconds. The problem was a short between two of the 3 pins in the connector. I noticed it only after the accident occurred, testing with my multimeter.
About the service manual, this is the one I have, and the testing procedures (voltages, frequencies) are all OK when plugged to the USB, but they all fail when I try to turn it on with the power button. And you're right, there's no procedure in the manual regarding this specific problem.
Anyway, I will keep trying, thanks again,
Eduardo
Well, after almost an year, I fixed the phone! I'll write about the solution here, to serve as a reference to anyone who needs help.
I managed to find the electrical schematics of the whole phone. With the information given in it, I noticed the connection between the positive battery pin and the flex power button connector was interrupted. Probably the short circuit I did overheated and blew some thin trace on the PCB and it kind of exploded. So I soldered a thin wire between the battery connector and the power button to replace the lost connection, and the phone is now working again! If anyone needs the schematics, just PM me and I will send it over.
But now, I'm back to another issue the phone already had, even before I did the short circuit: the screen shows horizontal lines, blurring the image. It started after I replaced a cracked screen. Does anyone have any idea if it's software or hardware related? May it be a driver issue? I'm from Brazil, and the screen came from Korea (bought at eBay). Should a korean screen work in my phone? Is it possible to confirm or not if it's hardware or software related?
Any help will be great, thanks in advance!
Eduardo
Post a screen.
Sent from the little guy
gastonw said:
Post a screen.
Sent from the little guy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I attached 8 pictures showing how the thing looks like. Please note the banding can't be seen on black background, and it's only horizontal. I used red arrows to show the banding. Vertical and curve artifacts are distortions caused by the camera.
If you pay attention to the file names (which have the time each picture was taken) it's possible to see how the thing gets worse with time. In the last pictures, screen goes completely unreadable, it degrades to an almost uniform bluish white.
I already tried flashing a custom kernel as suggested on another thread, but it didn't help. Already tried stock 4.0.4, that didn't work also.
Thanks a lot for any help.
Eduardo
Marcovecchio said:
I attached 8 pictures showing how the thing looks like. Please note the banding can't be seen on black background, and it's only horizontal. I used red arrows to show the banding. Vertical and curve artifacts are distortions caused by the camera.
If you pay attention to the file names (which have the time each picture was taken) it's possible to see how the thing gets worse with time. In the last pictures, screen goes completely unreadable, it degrades to an almost uniform bluish white.
I already tried flashing a custom kernel as suggested on another thread, but it didn't help. Already tried stock 4.0.4, that didn't work also.
Thanks a lot for any help.
Eduardo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have the same isue with my phone and i have another motherboard , but it didn't work....
ps: my screen is a genuine one
kozimcfly said:
i have the same isue with my phone and i have another motherboard , but it didn't work....
ps: my screen is a genuine one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean you tried the screen on two motherboards, and it shows the same problem on both? Could you please tell the country of origin of your motherboards and screen? I suspect it may be a hardware incompatibility issue.
In other words: motherboards sold in country X may not "talk" correctly to screens from country Y. My i9100 is from Brazil, but the screen came from a Korean seller at eBay.
By the way, does anyone know if the official firmwares come with low level hardware drivers? Is it possible to "transplant" the video driver from an asian firmware, to a south america firmware, for example?
I know about android phones which changed the wi-fi chip during their life cicle and this transplant used to be made, and worked. I would like to try the same for video.
Thanks!
Eduardo
Marcovecchio said:
You mean you tried the screen on two motherboards, and it shows the same problem on both? Could you please tell the country of origin of your motherboards and screen? I suspect it may be a hardware incompatibility issue.
In other words: motherboards sold in country X may not "talk" correctly to screens from country Y. My i9100 is from Brazil, but the screen came from a Korean seller at eBay.
By the way, does anyone know if the official firmwares come with low level hardware drivers? Is it possible to "transplant" the video driver from an asian firmware, to a south america firmware, for example?
I know about android phones which changed the wi-fi chip during their life cicle and this transplant used to be made, and worked. I would like to try the same for video.
Thanks!
Eduardo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
both of them from belgium
This is either a screen problem or a battery problem.
What happens when you swap batteries?
Sent from the little guy
gastonw said:
This is either a screen problem or a battery problem.
What happens when you swap batteries?
Sent from the little guy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have only one battery, so can't swap to test. But could you explain how could the battery cause this problem?
I just measured the battery voltage with a digital multimeter, and it's 4.15 V, fully charged. This is almost a half volt above the 3.7 V it should be. Do you think this may be the cause for all the problem?
Many tthanks!
Yeah, screen might not getting enough juice.
Sent from the little guy
gastonw said:
Yeah, screen might not getting enough juice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did another test: measured the battery voltage with the phone turned on, to check the voltage drop caused by phone load, but it seemed normal. With phone on, battery measured 3.8V approximately, which is a little less than the 4.15V I got without load. The battery indicator shows 75% battery charge. It looks like the battery is behaving well under load.
Anyway, I will try another battery as soon as I can.
Thanks again,
Eduardo
Well, I did test with another battery and the problem persists. Should I give up and consider it's really a screen hardware problem?
Thanks,
Eduardo
My guess was on the battery, I guess I'll take the screen problem then.
You should have it checked it out with a tech guy.
Sent from the little guy
Well, I think I went as far as I could. I replaced all 20 tiny SMD components from the display flex PCB with the ones from the old display, which cracked.
But it didn't work, the problem remains. Now I think the problem lies in the AMOLED screen itself, or perhaps in the main phone board. Who knows if the main board is sending dirty electrical signals to the display?
Anyway, I think I will just sell the phone the way it is, I can't afford spending even more money on this phone.
Thanks for the help, gastonw!
You got it Eduardo.
Sent from the little guy
So after my daily workout (watching "Breaking Bad" on the tablet) I managed to let my trusty 201 slip from my hands while taking it off the thin little ledge on my exercise bike console.
BAM, landed right on its corner on the bike's steel support bar.
Now it appears to be functional - except for the small point that the screen don't come on anymore.
Since I cleverly just put a "pattern" lock on it before maiming the poor thing, I can't get it unlocked reliably, but when I press the screenshot button on the keyboard it makes the shutter-click sound.
And I am getting notification bleeps when new mail comes in.
But I'm blind.
I have taken some steps in the past to open it, I did the Wifi antenna thing and tried to get the GPS working (bahahaha what a waste of time THAT was!)... and I've repaired a number of other phones and crap... so I'm not unskilled in this arena.
And I'm sort of optimistically hoping it's just a loose cable or something. There's only the smallest dent in the casing in the corner. No cracks in the screen or anything.
But has anyone gone down this road and maybe has some pointers as to what to look out for? Is there a backlight module that might have popped and just needs replacing?
I'm very sad, this little guy has been my stalwart companion for many, many moons...
Thanks for any input.
R
rprussell said:
So after my daily workout (watching "Breaking Bad" on the tablet) I managed to let my trusty 201 slip from my hands while taking it off the thin little ledge on my exercise bike console.
BAM, landed right on its corner on the bike's steel support bar.
Now it appears to be functional - except for the small point that the screen don't come on anymore.
Since I cleverly just put a "pattern" lock on it before maiming the poor thing, I can't get it unlocked reliably, but when I press the screenshot button on the keyboard it makes the shutter-click sound.
And I am getting notification bleeps when new mail comes in.
But I'm blind.
I have taken some steps in the past to open it, I did the Wifi antenna thing and tried to get the GPS working (bahahaha what a waste of time THAT was!)... and I've repaired a number of other phones and crap... so I'm not unskilled in this arena.
And I'm sort of optimistically hoping it's just a loose cable or something. There's only the smallest dent in the casing in the corner. No cracks in the screen or anything.
But has anyone gone down this road and maybe has some pointers as to what to look out for? Is there a backlight module that might have popped and just needs replacing?
I'm very sad, this little guy has been my stalwart companion for many, many moons...
Thanks for any input.
R
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have read some similar stories in the past and some times it has just been a cable that has dislodged inside.. Obviously this can vary but I would first try plugging in a hdmi cable to your TV and making sure that the graphics chip is still working.
I'd imagine it would be and your next step would be to open it up and start unplugging and replugging everything you can.
flumpster said:
I have read some similar stories in the past and some times it has just been a cable that has dislodged inside.. Obviously this can vary but I would first try plugging in a hdmi cable to your TV and making sure that the graphics chip is still working.
I'd imagine it would be and your next step would be to open it up and start unplugging and replugging everything you can.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aha! The hdmi cable. Hadn't occurred to me.
I love this forum.
(Also been using androwook for quite some time, with Data2SD... big fan - very smooth. would hate to lose and/or have to reinstall from scratch though!)
flumpster said:
I have read some similar stories in the past and some times it has just been a cable that has dislodged inside.. Obviously this can vary but I would first try plugging in a hdmi cable to your TV and making sure that the graphics chip is still working.
I'd imagine it would be and your next step would be to open it up and start unplugging and replugging everything you can.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well - this was a fantastic suggestion, since the HDMI gave me a perfect picture and the thing is (as thought) fully functional.
It was interesting trying to judge where to tap on the tablet to hit certain things on the screen, though.
This is actually quite a load off, since worst case I can get a new screen from ebay.
Thanks again, flumpster - I am much relieved, and you are a god among men!
rprussell said:
Well - this was a fantastic suggestion, since the HDMI gave me a perfect picture and the thing is (as thought) fully functional.
It was interesting trying to judge where to tap on the tablet to hit certain things on the screen, though.
This is actually quite a load off, since worst case I can get a new screen from ebay.
Thanks again, flumpster - I am much relieved, and you are a god among men!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here you go mate. I knew I had seen it before.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRLcxI2JddQ#t=411
This is for the original transformer but they should be nearly the same.
flumpster said:
Here you go mate. I knew I had seen it before.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRLcxI2JddQ#t=411
This is for the original transformer but they should be nearly the same.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice!
I have my fingers crossed.
So do my kids, who are going into "Minecraft PE" withdrawal at the moment.
Well, after popping the case, I've disconnected and reconnected everything available - no change in behavior.
I'll try unsticking the LCD and see what else is in there, but it's looking like a more aggressive repair will be in order.
V.sad
PS there's also this vid I found: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpJs_OI8joA
Arright. Here's my logic. Tell me where I'm wrong.
The video works - the HDMI proved that.
The tablet works - ditto.
Being able to touch and use the tablet shows me that the digitizer is ok, too.
I've reseated all the connectors, but I still can't get a picture.
Therefore, it's the LCD that's gone bad.
Therefore I should order a new LCD.
Right?
rprussell said:
Arright. Here's my logic. Tell me where I'm wrong.
The video works - the HDMI proved that.
The tablet works - ditto.
Being able to touch and use the tablet shows me that the digitizer is ok, too.
I've reseated all the connectors, but I still can't get a picture.
Therefore, it's the LCD that's gone bad.
Therefore I should order a new LCD.
Right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmmm.. Sounds logical but it could be the power going to the screen or something else that connects the screen. Or does the power etc control the digitizer also ?
flumpster said:
Hmmm.. Sounds logical but it could be the power going to the screen or something else that connects the screen. Or does the power etc control the digitizer also ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, there's one (and only one) ribbon cable feeding the LCD - and two going to the digitizer.
News, though - I pulled out the battery and found another ribbon cable tucked underneath to reseat.
After that, I put it back in and hooked up the LCD - and it came up!!
Sort of, anyway. It lit up enough to show me the spiderweb of cracks all along the bottom edge.
(I think I found my problem.)
Now off to eBay to shop for a replacement... I hope I didn't munge up anything else in there while I was mucking around!
rprussell said:
Well, there's one (and only one) ribbon cable feeding the LCD - and two going to the digitizer.
News, though - I pulled out the battery and found another ribbon cable tucked underneath to reseat.
After that, I put it back in and hooked up the LCD - and it came up!!
Sort of, anyway. It lit up enough to show me the spiderweb of cracks all along the bottom edge.
(I think I found my problem.)
Now off to eBay to shop for a replacement... I hope I didn't munge up anything else in there while I was mucking around!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See if someone is selling a bricked Tf201 of TF300 that you can get the screen out of.
I have a strange issue related to kenzo(rn3). My battery was swollen. So got rid of it. But when I went to buy a new battery the touch stopped working. So I tried to get it repaired in local shops bcz mi center were charging 4k. But local guys couldn't fix it. The issue was may be of motherboard. After some days I again restarted(with charger only, didn't bought battery) as usual, this time the touch worked with no problem even after restarts. So I bought the battery and was using the phone. But the battery backup was not good bcz of miui 9.5. So I searched for a good sot rom. I downgraded to miui 7.6.3. No imei issue happened but touch again is unresponsive. I tried installing miui 9.5 with no luck. I think the issue is on the software part. I clean flash installed roms every time by miflash. Help anyone. Please.
I think your problem is a unique case, I can't relate. However, I DO get those touchscreen problems. I get that very-very-rarely. A forced restart by holding the power fixes it.
I recently changed to MIUI 9.5.6.0, haven't gotten any of it yet. I previously came from Official Nougat LOS, and then changed to xiaomi.eu ROM before finally change to this genuine stock MIUI. I got that issue in both LOS and xiaomi.eu.
Restarting couldn't help me.
IvanKurnia said:
I think your problem is a unique case, I can't relate. However, I DO get those touchscreen problems. I get that very-very-rarely. A forced restart by holding the power fixes it.
I recently changed to MIUI 9.5.6.0, haven't gotten any of it yet. I previously came from Official Nougat LOS, and then changed to xiaomi.eu ROM before finally change to this genuine stock MIUI. I got that issue in both LOS and xiaomi.eu.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe there is some hardware issue. But why after flashing the stock rom it doesn't responding.
Do you use original touch? Or focaltech?
If you change some hardware i recommend to reinstall rom and kernel (the rom with fastboot).
Equally the battery (i think) may not generate this issue.
Oh! I remember in other device my charger freeze my phone... But its very rare... What charger do you use commonly?
Chrisis25 said:
Do you use original touch? Or focaltech?
If you change some hardware i recommend to reinstall rom and kernel (the rom with fastboot).
Equally the battery (i think) may not generate this issue.
Oh! I remember in other device my charger freeze my phone... But its very rare... What charger do you use commonly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I once got the touch repaired at the service center. It was 2 years ago. I have installed rom in edl mode. When the touch again worked on its own, there was only charger connected to it. The issue may not be with the charger. May be I should try with more local repair shops.
Use aida or other software to see touch model and if you have focaltech i recommend to you agni kernel 13. In Aroma do you set focaltech option.
If you have original touch the problem may be other...
flash agni use focaltouch libs
Chrisis25 said:
Use aida or other software to see touch model and if you have focaltech i recommend to you agni kernel 13. In Aroma do you set focaltech option.
If you have original touch the problem may be other...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The touch is not working in twrp too. Any other way to install kernel. May be using miflash?
Rishab kaushik said:
The touch is not working in twrp too. Any other way to install kernel. May be using miflash?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont know... do you can ask to developer to only focaltech compilation... equally i dont know... I believed that Focaltech was compatible in recovery but not in system (i never have Focaltech and im not sure if your problem is it.)
Your problem is very rare... but make me remember similar problems in notebooks with touchpad and steel case...
in some notebooks if the case is steel and you touch the case, the touchpad not work but if you dont touch the case work perfect (yeah... this is rare but in my opinion is "ground" (talking about electricity) problem.)
i dont have more ideas, your problem is very strange and probably hardware.
Good luck bro
Chrisis25 said:
i dont know... do you can ask to developer to only focaltech compilation... equally i dont know... I believed that Focaltech was compatible in recovery but not in system (i never have Focaltech and im not sure if your problem is it.)
Your problem is very rare... but make me remember similar problems in notebooks with touchpad and steel case...
in some notebooks if the case is steel and you touch the case, the touchpad not work but if you dont touch the case work perfect (yeah... this is rare but in my opinion is "ground" (talking about electricity) problem.)
i dont have more ideas, your problem is very strange and probably hardware.
Good luck bro
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the suggestions. May be its more hardware related. It was just a luck when the touch worked on its own. May be some shorting is there. One more point I want to add is that when the battery was swollen the display bent too. Some impact may be on the motherboard too. The local repair guys confirmed touch is good. May be the motherboard is dying.
U.U
Remember: you can use keyboard and mouse USB if you need to use "Titanium Backup" or other app.
What's happened is most likely this. The swollen battery bent the mainboard's PCB and either cracked some solder joints or lifted a pad/broke a trace. Now you have bad, intermittent connection. You could probably reflow the joints using a hot air station but you wouldn't be here asking for help if you had the required tools. If it's a lifted pad under a big chip, that's simply too much work (anyone that can do that would ask for at least the cost of a new phone).
troolie said:
What's happened is most likely this. The swollen battery bent the mainboard's PCB and either cracked some solder joints or lifted a pad/broke a trace. Now you have bad, intermittent connection. You could probably reflow the joints using a hot air station but you wouldn't be here asking for help if you had the required tools. If it's a lifted pad under a big chip, that's simply too much work (anyone that can do that would ask for at least the cost of a new phone).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I have seen on the pcb, there is a probable smd part near the power ic. You correctly inferred that I don't have tools to fully inspect/try blowing hot air. But I did tried blowing hot air using a hair dryer. I also do suspect that repair shops I went didn't tried that. Thanks for the suggestions.
troolie said:
What's happened is most likely this. The swollen battery bent the mainboard's PCB and either cracked some solder joints or lifted a pad/broke a trace. Now you have bad, intermittent connection. You could probably reflow the joints using a hot air station but you wouldn't be here asking for help if you had the required tools. If it's a lifted pad under a big chip, that's simply too much work (anyone that can do that would ask for at least the cost of a new phone).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some more questions. What is a lifted pad?
Some more insights are, Once the touch was worked on its own, it worked pretty well. I then purchased the battery and installed. Used the phone for 2 days. And then I downgraded and touch went unresponsive. Could it be really a hw issue? Well I too think that it's a hw issue. But couldn't help myself question this. Maybe there is some irregular voltage being supplied. The touch might now be accustomed to the power provided by the old battery?
Some devices can work with charger without battery (notebooks, some tablets and phones, i dont know if all)
Try with this to test if work fine all... If yes i recommend you test your battery voltage/ampers.
Chrisis25 said:
Some devices can work with charger without battery (notebooks, some tablets and phones, i dont know if all)
Try with this to test if work fine all... If yes i recommend you test your battery voltage/ampers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When the touch worked on its own, it was only without battery because i dumped the old one and didn't bought new because the touch wasn't working. When the touch worked it was connected to the charger only. Battery is giving output of 3-4 Volts.
Rishab kaushik said:
When the touch worked on its own, it was only without battery because i dumped the old one and didn't bought new because the touch wasn't working. When the touch worked it was connected to the charger only. Battery is giving output of 3-4 Volts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
3 or 4? the bm47 (our battery if im right) suply 4.4v your problem may be this.
Chrisis25 said:
3 or 4? the bm47 (our battery if im right) suply 4.4v your problem may be this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The voltage when checked fluctuated bw 3 to 4. The multi meter reading was not showing volts after decimal. I will check. Again with a more accurate multimeter in a while.
The battery model is bm46 though. And what does 3.85 depict on the battery?
what i dont know (again)...
4.4v charger voltage (after pass of diode and otherf circuit?)
3.85v to output? (phone use)
if yes your multimeter reading is good (3v and 4v).
i try to help you with ideas but is very rare this.
Rishab kaushik said:
From what I have seen on the pcb, there is a probable smd part near the power ic. You correctly inferred that I don't have tools to fully inspect/try blowing hot air. But I did tried blowing hot air using a hair dryer. I also do suspect that repair shops I went didn't tried that. Thanks for the suggestions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, modern electronics use lead free solder with a melting point that's somewhere around 250°c. Basically you need an extra 100 degrees to reflow and I doubt your hair dryer can go as high as that. It's only good enough to melt adhesive.
Rishab kaushik said:
Some more questions. What is a lifted pad?
Some more insights are, Once the touch was worked on its own, it worked pretty well. I then purchased the battery and installed. Used the phone for 2 days. And then I downgraded and touch went unresponsive. Could it be really a hw issue? Well I too think that it's a hw issue. But couldn't help myself question this. Maybe there is some irregular voltage being supplied. The touch might now be accustomed to the power provided by the old battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A lifted pad is when the copper contact is ripped off the board as a result of excessive flexing or overheat, usually under a big IC. This ends up damaging or cutting the trace leading to that pad. To fix that, you can only micro solder a very thin insulated wire under a microscope. You may need to desolder the component resting on that pad first to fix the pcb.
Certainly, a component might operate just a bit out of specs but since you don't have schematics, you'd have to do hours of guess work, assuming you already know how. I suppose you could randomly replace likely culprits and hope for the best but... Well, let's say it's far from ideal.
Hi, I have a problem with a Honor 10.
Since August it started to restart randomly, I just replaced the battery and I just did two factory reset but the problem continues to manifest even in the configuration screen.
I would exclude the faulty power button, since before rebooting it usually froze on the activity I was performing.
Any ideas?
Thank you!
Test power button with ohm meter.
It was doing this after the reset with just it's factory load? No 3rd party apps loaded?
Try reflashing firmware.
Maybe be a mobo failure.
blackhawk said:
Test power button with ohm meter.
It was doing this after the reset with just it's factory load? No 3rd party apps loaded?
Try reflashing firmware.
Maybe be a mobo failure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I really don't think is the power button because it reboot even in idle on the table, and i saw that if i put it on charge it reboot instantly.
I have this problem even in the configuration screens after the factory reset, indeed i've must configured two or three times because of that.
I'll try to reflash the firmware, then i'll wait for a new battery i ordered a month ago.
If it will be still broken i guess is a mobo failure.
I have a question: i didn't flashed a smartphone before, and i was asking myself if this reboot problem can mess up with flashing, bricking the phone. Can it be possible?
eddyxx said:
I really don't think is the power button because it reboot even in idle on the table, and i saw that if i put it on charge it reboot instantly.
I have this problem even in the configuration screens after the factory reset, indeed i've must configured two or three times because of that.
I'll try to reflash the firmware, then i'll wait for a new battery i ordered a month ago.
If it will be still broken i guess is a mobo failure.
I have a question: i didn't flashed a smartphone before, and i was asking myself if this reboot problem can mess up with flashing, bricking the phone. Can it be possible?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah if it interrupts the flash that won't end well...
If you can return it, do so... otherwise...
Before you go flashing nuts try to determine if it's a hardware issue. Check ribbon cable connectors... and that switch.
Firmware shouldn't become corrupted unless there's a flash memory failure or it was a bad flash to begin with.
Does it not do this is safe mode? 3rd party app if so.
If it does it when in the boot menu it's likely hardware.
If so it may be just a failed battery. Try with charger connected to see if this alters the behavior.
If you don't feel comfortable repairing it, let a good tech do it for you. I always remember my first mechanical alarm clock disassembly... it didn't go well
blackhawk said:
If you can return it, do so... otherwise...
Before you go flashing nuts try to determine if it's a hardware issue. Check ribbon cable connectors... and that switch.
Firmware shouldn't become corrupted unless there's a flash memory failure or it was a bad flash to begin with.
Does it not do this is safe mode? 3rd party app if so.
If it does it when in the boot menu it's likely hardware.
If so it may be just a failed battery. Try with charger connected to see if this alters the behavior.
If you don't feel comfortable repairing it, let a good tech do it for you. I always remember my first mechanical alarm clock disassembly... it didn't go well
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It reboots even in safe mode!
It would seem a hardware problem, possible that I bought a new battery already damaged?
It’s been a few hours since it works good after charging it to 100%, it seems that it starts to reboot towards 50%.
I wanted to flash it also because before doing the factory reset, it automatically installed some "stock" apps by itself, I refer to some games that Honor automatically installs at each factory reset, every time I uninstalled them, after some restart they reinstalled themselves.
It was a weird issue but looks like fixed with the factory reset, so now i only have the reboot issue.
I am so desperate that I would like to try the battery of my Honor 10 (the one with problems is that of my girlfriend), I would not buy another battery since I have to be delivered the one I ordered from a month.
It may be the battery, they can fail at any time.
It's rare for new ones to fail but it happens.
Use a firewall to block auto updates or installs.
Karma Firewall works well but its valuable logging feature doesn't work on Android 10 and higher, but it still will block apps.
Update: I just bought another battery and the problem persist.
Now im sure is not the battery so i will flash it very soon no matter what.
I have been having the same problem as you guys have since last Christmas (2020), when my phone was 18 months old.
I switched phone and gave the Honor 10 to my wife for Coin Master and the problem persisted.
However, two months ago the battery started to swell and surprisingly the problem went away completely for about a month. But as it swelled to the extent of pushing out the screen the problem returned a month ago.
Thinking it was possibly a battery/battery connection related issue, I changed to a new Pisen battery last night. Sadly, the rebooting continued but only for 2-3 times today.
So it is probably an issue with the board itself.
citibatter said:
I have been having the same problem as you guys have since last Christmas (2020), when my phone was 18 months old.
I switched phone and gave the Honor 10 to my wife for Coin Master and the problem persisted.
However, two months ago the battery started to swell and surprisingly the problem went away completely for about a month. But as it swelled to the extent of pushing out the screen the problem returned a month ago.
Thinking it was possibly a battery/battery connection related issue, I changed to a new Pisen battery last night. Sadly, the rebooting continued but only for 2-3 times today.
So it is probably an issue with the board itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The battery failure may have damaged the mobo or perhaps it was preexisting.
Check ribbon connector pins for damage. Look around for visible solder cracks. Try pressing gently on the mobo with a pencil eraser with device powered on to try to find the area. Check ribbon cables too by gently moving them.
One of the most likely places for a failed solder joint are the BGA chipsets. The many solder pads are under the chipset, inaccessible.
Press gently on them to try and verify this. A hot air station (and skillset to use it) is the only way to repair this type of failure.
Any battery swelling is a failure, replace it asap.
blackhawk said:
The battery failure may have damaged the mobo or perhaps it was preexisting.
Check ribbon connector pins for damage. Look around for visible solder cracks. Try pressing gently on the mobo with a pencil eraser with device powered on to try to find the area. Check ribbon cables too by gently moving them.
One of the most likely places for a failed solder joint are the BGA chipsets. The many solder pads are under the chipset, inaccessible.
Press gently on them to try and verify this. A hot air station (and skillset to use it) is the only way to repair this type of failure.
Any battery swelling is a failure, replace it asap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As I said, battery has been replaced with a brand new one. Therefore the swelling issue is fixed.
Don't have the skill set to use a hot air gun or to solder so this is it for me.
Quite disappointed by the QC of Huawei as this was my first Huawei phone. I have been using Xiaomi since my first smartphone and never had an issue like this before.
citibatter said:
As I said, battery has been replaced with a brand new one. Therefore the swelling issue is fixed.
Don't have the skill set to use a hot air gun or to solder so this is it for me.
Quite disappointed by the QC of Huawei as this was my first Huawei phone. I have been using Xiaomi since my first smartphone and never had an issue like this before.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My point was a mobo failure is generally a game over event.
I run strictly Samsung's as I like their UI and have become familiar with them. Of course in 2-3 years that could change if Samsung keeps dropping the ball.
blackhawk said:
My point was a mobo failure is generally a game over event.
I run strictly Samsung's as I like their UI and have become familiar with them. Of course in 2-3 years that could change if Samsung keeps dropping the ball.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I understand.
That said, Huawei did replace the MBs for out of warranty customers in mainland China as a good will gesture.
Too bad that policy did not extend outside of China.
citibatter said:
I understand.
That said, Huawei did replace the MBs for out of warranty customers in mainland China as a good will gesture.
Too bad that policy did not extend outside of China.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe see if they'll discount a mobo for you.
Not free but it might sweeten the deal.
Or write it off and move on.
All my Samsung's have been long lived with replacement batteries being the only repairs.
Another reason I like them.
In my case it was sort of dumb luck especially when choosing the first Note 10+. In this case they did live up to their hype.
The S4+ lasted over 5 years and still boots up.
I had the random reboots going on for weeks even at night, also bootloops sometimes .
I tried a lot of stuff but i got my phone going again for 2 weeks now without any reboots.
It might be just pure luck but this is what i did last time:
Did a complete reset of the Phone ( everything gone )
I changed simcard to other simslot (i think this made the difference, atleast for my phone)
No apps from Meta (You dont want any of their **** anyway )
ill keep you posted
exoronic said:
I had the random reboots going on for weeks even at night, also bootloops sometimes .
I tried a lot of stuff but i got my phone going again for 2 weeks now without any reboots.
It might be just pure luck but this is what i did last time:
Did a complete reset of the Phone ( everything gone )
I changed simcard to other simslot (i think this made the difference, atleast for my phone)
Put on performance mode (might not be it, but details mather here, today is first day without performance mode, no issues so far)
No apps from Meta (again because details mather, might not be it, i had random reboots all the time, but when i was using instagram or it was still running in the background , it was real bad, You dont want any of their **** anyway )
ill keep you posted
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yay!
Meta is malware.
Hey guys, it seems that I solved the problem by bringing the phone to a Huawei service center, they performed an "operation on the motherboard".
Actually they changed the battery with an "original" one for 60€ (the one I had replaced cost 10€ ), then when the problem obviously came back they did the repair on the mobo at no extra cost.
I guess it went well.
eddyxx said:
Hey guys, it seems that I solved the problem by bringing the phone to a Huawei service center, they performed an "operation on the motherboard".
Actually they changed the battery with an "original" one for 60€ (the one I had replaced cost 10€ ), then when the problem obviously came back they did the repair on the mobo at no extra cost.
I guess it went well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you had any reboots after the motherboard change?
I got the same issue with my Honor 10. Tried every trick that I could think of, but nothing seems to help.
What I noticed, that sometimes when it restarts it does get very hot in the area near the camera. (not sure exactly what component it's there but it's something on the motherboard)
I'm thinking if it worth doing this motherboard change. (as it seems to be a design/component issue if there are so many that have this problem)
nomob said:
Did you had any reboots after the motherboard change?
I got the same issue with my Honor 10. Tried every trick that I could think of, but nothing seems to help.
What I noticed, that sometimes when it restarts it does get very hot in the area near the camera. (not sure exactly what component it's there but it's something on the motherboard)
I'm thinking if it worth doing this motherboard change. (as it seems to be a design/component issue if there are so many that have this problem)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, no reboot at all, but I noticed later that they rolled back to Android 8.0, so I’m thinking that they didn’t fix the motherboard, but they actually found a workaround by downgrading the OS.
I’m afraid to try to upgrade to Android 10.0 for this reason, I don’t even know if I can do it considering the new Huawei policy of flashing and stuff, but my girlfriend is ok with that so I let it go.
I can confirm that even now, on each task (TikTok scrolling for example), it gets very very hot in that point near the camera, my perfectly still working Honor 10 instead does it only on intensive use of the camera.
I hope this information can help you with your Honor 10, I suggest you go back to an older version of Android if possible just for troubleshooting.
If it persists, the motherboard is probably faulty and you need to replace it, I guess...
eddyxx said:
No, no reboot at all, but I noticed later that they rolled back to Android 8.0, so I’m thinking that they didn’t fix the motherboard, but they actually found a workaround by downgrading the OS.
I’m afraid to try to upgrade to Android 10.0 for this reason, I don’t even know if I can do it considering the new Huawei policy of flashing and stuff, but my girlfriend is ok with that so I let it go.
I can confirm that even now, on each task (TikTok scrolling for example), it gets very very hot in that point near the camera, my perfectly still working Honor 10 instead does it only on intensive use of the camera.
I hope this information can help you with your Honor 10, I suggest you go back to an older version of Android if possible just for troubleshooting.
If it persists, the motherboard is probably faulty and you need to replace it, I guess...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply and downgrade suggestion! (worth a try)
I bought my Huawei MediaPad M5 8.4" android tablet back in 2019. It has given me almost no issues other than it started to slow down recently.
Before a trip I took, I fully charged it, powered it off, and put it in my bag. This was on a Thursday. A few days later on Sunday I went to use it and it would not power on. Plugging it into multiple known good chargers does nothing. It is showing zero signs of life (no vibration, no screen power). There is zero physical damage that I can see - no bends or cracks or anything. And the USB-C port still feels solid.
I've tried...
Holding the power button for 15-20+ seconds.
Holding the power button and volume down for 15-20+ seconds.
Holding the power button and volume up for 15-20+ seconds.
Holding the power button and volume up+down for 15-20+ seconds.
Tried charging it with multiple known good chargers.
Tried leaving it plugged into known good chargers for hours.
Tried the button combos above while plugged in.
Tried wiggling the power button, volume rocker, and the physical "home" "button" in case they were stuck and causing issues...
Even tried flipping the USB-C cable...
Tried adding some very light pressure to the power cable (like up/down/left/right) to see if it would give me a sign that the charging port was loose.
Have tried googling it, a lot, but seems like no one else has run into this issue.
I've tried all of the above many many times, on different days just hoping for any signs of life and got nothing.
Anyone else run into this and figure out what the issue is?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions/advice!
First off hats off to you for posting the perfect model of how to troubleshoot and then post your experience!
Sad to say I don't have / haven't had this issue. But I do want to ask obvious questions (at the pain of seeming obtuse) and propose one more (probably futile) step and one possibly fruitful.
Questions:
- You've wisely tried swapping chargers. Have you tried multiple cables? (I bet you did.) And did you try both USB-A to USB-C and USB-C to USB-C cables?
- Can I safely assume that when you call a charger a known good one have you used the same cable and charger combo with a different Android device (such as a USB-C equipped phone) to attempt charging the tablet?
- Do you feel as though the power button is actually moving when you press it?
Suggestions:
Try using a toothpick immersed in rubbing alcohol and gently probe around the USB connector. (Maybe there's some dust or crud blocking the contacts.)
This seems dopey but how long have you plugged in using a known good charger? I have succeeded with a hoplelessly old Samsung S3 and Nexus 7 tablet by leaving them charging for 24 hours.
In each case I walked away from the seemingly defunct device with a sense of resignation and disgust. Boy was I surprised to see that they were alive again! In those cases the devices had weak batteries and it took massive charging to get them to boot again-- and the battery life was poor once they actually booted. (My Nexus 7 is on my desk here begging to be put out of it's misery. It has a replacement screen, so it's been through rough times.)
FYI:
You mention that the tablet was gradually slowing down. If you ultimately succeed in breathing life back into it: have you periodically cleared the cache partition by booting into recovery. (I have to bet you did 'cause you have tested with the volume up + power key combination in troubleshooting.)
P.S.
I have also had mine since 2019. I have not noticed any significant degradation of battery life or unusual decline in performance. Periodic cache clearing has helped me. (And I think that silly defrag notication is probably an act of superstition. But I do let it function anyhow.)
Even if nothing I've said turns your day into sunshine, I hope at least it's reassuring that you're not screaming into the dark alone. Feel free to ask for more ideas if you have any more evidence to work with.
1st - Thanks for the quick reply! Definitely appreciate it!
- You've wisely tried swapping chargers. Have you tried multiple cables? (I bet you did.) And did you try both USB-A to USB-C and USB-C to USB-C cables?
- Can I safely assume that when you call a charger a known good one have you used the same cable and charger combo with a different Android device (such as a USB-C equipped phone) to attempt charging the tablet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, tried different cables and power adapters and wall outlets. All are known to be good by plugging my phone in and getting it to charge. I did not try a USB-C to USB-C - I actually don't think I own one, hah. If I come across one I'll give it a try and update if that fixes it. Kinda tempted to go find one - maybe the extra juice will give it the extra kick it needs?? I've seen weirder things...
- Do you feel as though the power button is actually moving when you press it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. All of the buttons still have that tactile/responsive/click feel when pushing it in.
Try using a toothpick immersed in rubbing alcohol and gently probe around the USB connector. (Maybe there's some dust or crud blocking the contacts.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good idea! Will give this a try but currently out of rubbing alcohol. I did try (and forgot to list even tho I did this whilst making the list) using some compressed air around the buttons and around the charging port (making sure to keep the can up-right so I'm not freezing anything)
This seems dopey but how long have you plugged in using a known good charger? I have succeeded with a hoplelessly old Samsung S3 and Nexus 7 tablet by leaving them charging for 24 hours.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't leave it plugged in overnight since the tablet isn't functioning properly and don't want to leave it charging whilst I'm sleeping in case it shorts or whatever. But I did have it on the charger, multiple times, for 2-6(?) hours at a time. It is plugged in now.
You mention that the tablet was gradually slowing down. If you ultimately succeed in breathing life back into it: have you periodically cleared the cache partition by booting into recovery. (I have to bet you did 'cause you have tested with the volume up + power key combination in troubleshooting.)
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I have not cleared the cache partition via recovery. IF I get this thing alive again, will give it a try. I only mentioned it to highlight how little issues I've had and how completely out of the blue this no power issue is.
(And I think that silly defrag notication is probably an act of superstition. But I do let it function anyhow.)
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Lol, yes. "We have cleared up 42kb of defragmented files" ... thanks MediaPad! /s lol
Even if nothing I've said turns your day into sunshine, I hope at least it's reassuring that you're not screaming into the dark alone. Feel free to ask for more ideas if you have any more evidence to work with.
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Thanks again! I really appreciate you! The world needs more of you!!
I can report to have had the exact same issue with my Huawei MediaPad M5 8.4", battery went empty when the device was in the bag over a weekend, and I have not been successful in recharging or starting the device with any of the trouble shooting given in the above messages. The USB-C connector on the device doesn't feel any looser than on any other USB-C device that I own, and all the other devices recharge from all of the charger + cable -combinations that I've tried on this device.
Same device, same problem. Have tried all the above with no joy. Wondering if the battery has gone into deep drain so currently trying 4.2v @ 600mah 'trickle' for 24 hours. My device was new 1/1/20. Best tablet I've owned for performance, display resolution, battery life () and aesthetics. Damn shame if dead. There is a useful teardown vid here here but I can't find a replacement battery anywhere. If I have any luck on any front I'll post back.
Hello,
Same problem with same tablet. I've tried to replace battery and USB c connector and my tablet doesn't start.
I've tried many cables, many adapters, nothing work...
Did you find a solution with your problem?
@KindaIrish Did you find a solution?
etraga said:
@KindaIrish Did you find a solution?
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Sadly no. If you or anyone does, I'd love to resurrect it!
Thank you for your answer. I've tried to change USB port and battery and still not working. I will test with another battery (the seller will send me another one).
etraga said:
Hello,
Same problem with same tablet. I've tried to replace battery and USB c connector and my tablet doesn't start.
I've tried many cables, many adapters, nothing work...
Did you find a solution with your problem?
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Click to collapse
You even replaced the battery AND USB-C connector and that didn't give it any life?!? That's surprising to me! Thanks for trying that and reporting results... the mystery continues...
A buddy of mine mentioned another piece of hardware that could have failed, I'll report back if he remembers what that was.
@etraga When you had it open, you obviously didn't see anything bad but did you take a real good close look around specifically checking for any signs of a short or corrosion or anything like that? Sometimes they are not always obvious or easy to see.
Two Questions for everyone having this issue:
1 - When was the last time your device worked? For me it was a few days before my original post; around March 24, 2022. Curious if all of ours died at basically the same time, but maybe didn't try using it for a few weeks/months?
2 - What country are you located? USA for me. Asking because I wonder if there is ANY relation to the Huawei ban in the US. Highly doubtful, but at this point who knows...
KindaIrish said:
You even replaced the battery AND USB-C connector and that didn't give it any life?!? That's surprising to me! Thanks for trying that and reporting results... the mystery continues...
A buddy of mine mentioned another piece of hardware that could have failed, I'll report back if he remembers what that was.
@etraga When you had it open, you obviously didn't see anything bad but did you take a real good close look around specifically checking for any signs of a short or corrosion or anything like that? Sometimes they are not always obvious or easy to see.
Two Questions for everyone having this issue:
1 - When was the last time your device worked? For me it was a few days before my original post; around March 24, 2022. Curious if all of ours died at basically the same time, but maybe didn't try using it for a few weeks/months?
2 - What country are you located? USA for me. Asking because I wonder if there is ANY relation to the Huawei ban in the US. Highly doubtful, but at this point who knows...
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Yes I've replaced both, I found a battery from Deutschland and USB-c connector from China on AliExpress. Maybe one of them don't work, it's really weird...
I didn't find anything special when I open the tablet.
I'm from France and my tablet doesn't work since May or June.
Found this thread after replacing the battery of a Huawei AGS-W09 MediaPad did not change the symptoms:
Red LED is on, close to the selfie cam when plugged into charger.
LED goes dark when disconnected.
No other form of life provokable from the machine.
Last summer (I think it was August 2022) I realized a sharp drop in battery capacity that soon resulted in the status quo described above.
Pretty sure a battery change should fix it, but no, it didn't. Just saw naive me got the battery from Aliexpress, however, so maybe I got a bad one.
Your symptoms are little bit different aren't they?
FYI: I'm located in Austria, central Europe
Here another one , Huawei Mediapad 8.4 SHT_W09 . It wont turn in anymore
i was busy with loading a stock rom from Sd Card, but i think it had a lack off power, i had it frequently on the charger.
It was functioning well but i was playing around with other roms
It was unlocked and by far a great tablet, very solid and no loose connector or something like that
if i connect it to my pc i can hear that the USB connects.
hope to bring it alive and kicking...
Hans from Netherlands