I've noticed that pictures I take using the camera flash in low lighting comes out dull and brownish even though the viewer shows a bright image before taking the picture.
Yet turning off the flash produces better but unsatisfactory images. I just returned from a holiday where I had to use the HTC Desire HD which consistently produced far superior pictures in low light conditions. Anyone know what settings that could improve this?
I had the same problem before. I solved it by cleaning the lens with some LCD solution and a microfibre cloth.
I took my S9+ to a concert and while shooting in low light in auto mode, strobe lights seem to cause a problem. I think the phone is switching between cameras when the strobes come on. I had just gotten the camera that day so I didn't have time to mess with recording in any other modes. Is this a common problem with Samsung phones? My previous G6 didn't suffer from this issue but it's low light video is terrible in comparison.
This video demonstrates the issue around the 2:30 mark.
youtu.be/vrNg9X4GJSw?t=147
Oh wow, that's definitely not right! I first thought it would have been something with the aperture change before watching the video, but that would cause brightness issues - not jumpiness like that!
Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk
Alius Ratio said:
I took my S9+ to a concert and while shooting in low light in auto mode, strobe lights seem to cause a problem. I think the phone is switching between cameras when the strobes come on. I had just gotten the camera that day so I didn't have time to mess with recording in any other modes. Is this a common problem with Samsung phones? My previous G6 didn't suffer from this issue but it's low light video is terrible in comparison.
This video demonstrates the issue around the 2:30 mark.
youtu.be/vrNg9X4GJSw?t=147
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool i want this as an effect
Hi guys...
How is everyone?
Kindly see the following two pics.
When the focus is on the tubelight the screen goes all yellow and thus the resulting pic as well.
but when I covered the tube light with my hand IT returns to normal the actual colour that is there.
Do any of you guys have this problem how should I get my unit replaced?
Is this even a problem or normal white balance stuff?
Xebeck said:
Is this even a problem or normal white balance stuff?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's plainly not a problem.
You may find a similarly serious "fault" where your photo comes out black if you cover the lens with your finger while taking the shot
thesoupthief said:
It's plainly not a problem.
You may find a similarly serious "fault" where your photo comes out black if you cover the lens with your finger while taking the shot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
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Bloody Fanboys ftw...
Why comment if you don't have anything to help me with?
Xebeck said:
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Bloody Fanboys ftw...
Why comment if you don't have anything to help me with?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, didn't mean to sound so chippy. The fact of it is though that this is not a problem. The phone's software adjusts depending on lighting conditions so when you change the lighting it's gonna change its behaviour. Go take some pics in daylight and other real world conditions if you want to confirm whether it's operating correctly. You can always find ways to catch these algorithms out with artificial situations
thesoupthief said:
Sorry, didn't mean to sound so chippy. The fact of it is though that this is not a problem. The phone's software adjusts depending on lighting conditions so when you change the lighting it's gonna change its behaviour. Go take some pics in daylight and other real world conditions if you want to confirm whether it's operating correctly. You can always find ways to catch these algorithms out with artificial situations
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
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Thanks...
I didn't wanna run out of my replacement period and then realise that I should have acted
Yes, this is not a problem, a reviewer showed how the camera reacted when photo was taken from two different angles, at one angle green color was dominant while on different angle it was not.
Xebeck said:
Hi guys...
How is everyone?
Kindly see the following two pics.
When the focus is on the tubelight the screen goes all yellow and thus the resulting pic as well.
but when I covered the tube light with my hand IT returns to normal the actual colour that is there.
Do any of you guys have this problem how should I get my unit replaced?
Is this even a problem or normal white balance stuff?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you happen to still have your Poco, this condition is NOT a hardware nor a white balance problem on Poco. This is a normal behaviour of the flourescent lighting especially when the camera is using fast shutter speed. The yellowing is a phenomenon in which the camera captures the lower portion of the flicker curve, in laymans term, when the light has just turned ON and is not on its peak power yet.
But why was it using fast shutter speed? It should use low shutter speed!
You have a camera with a sensor that can capture huge amount of light at a given intensity and has the capability to use fast shutter speed in order to not blind itself (to not overblown the image). If you ever do use a slower shutter speed, there is a huge probability of the image of being overblown or for the moving subjects to have trails. You could still make some few adjustments in manual mode.
But my old smartphone renders the proper white color!
It is true, it renders white colors because it might be having a lower aperture, smaller sensor or even smaller photocells. To put it simply, it is using slower shutter speeds because it is what it can do and it is doing well with flourescent. It is not being blinded by the light because its camera configuration is not advanced enough to capture more light on a given amount of intensity, does slow shutter speed.
Put this into your mind: At a given constant white balance, a magnetic ballast flourescent lamp will still emit yellow tint/cast whenever the camera is using fast shutter speed. This is NOT an issue of the camera itself but a limitation of of the light source itself because advanced camera systems were now fast enough to capture its low power phase/state.
This phenomenon DOES show on full flrame cameras ie Nikon D90 and Canon Rebel XSI 450d, due to them having bigger sensors therefore using even more faster shutter speed. This doesn't mean that they're defective.
This phenomenon DOES NOT show on high frequency lamps such as midrange LEDs and mostly Flourescents with electronic ballast.
If you really are into photography and wanted to do it under a Flourescent lamp, read these links:
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*29830*how-does-aperture-size-or-shutter-speed-affect-color-temperature
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*43026*how-to-correct-yellowish-pictures-under-fluorescent-lighting-on-a-digital-camera#43029
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*4115*do-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed-create-a-problem-with-color-cast
http:**blog.tommyimages.com*2009*06*photographing-under-fluorescent-lights.html
https:**en.wikipedia.org*wiki*Fluorescent_lamp#Flicker_problems
- change the * to / and remove any spaces to make the link usable. My apologies for the inconvenience with the links.
If you read them properly, you should know that this do happen even on Full frame cameras. The main culprit was the magnetic ballast flourescent.
3DRIAN said:
If you happen to still have your Poco, this condition is NOT a hardware nor a white balance problem on Poco. This is a normal behaviour of the flourescent lighting especially when the camera is using fast shutter speed. The yellowing is a phenomenon in which the camera captures the lower portion of the flicker curve, in laymans term, when the light has just turned ON and is not on its peak power yet.
But why was it using fast shutter speed? It should use low shutter speed!
You have a camera with a sensor that can capture huge amount of light at a given intensity and has the capability to use fast shutter speed in order to not blind itself (to not overblown the image). If you ever do use a slower shutter speed, there is a huge probability of the image of being overblown or for the moving subjects to have trails. You could still make some few adjustments in manual mode.
But my old smartphone renders the proper white color!
It is true, it renders white colors because it might be having a lower aperture, smaller sensor or even smaller photocells. To put it simply, it is using slower shutter speeds because it is what it can do and it is doing well with flourescent. It is not being blinded by the light because its camera configuration is not advanced enough to capture more light on a given amount of intensity, does slow shutter speed.
Put this into your mind: At a given constant white balance, a magnetic ballast flourescent lamp will still emit yellow tint/cast whenever the camera is using fast shutter speed. This is NOT an issue of the camera itself but a limitation of of the light source itself because advanced camera systems were now fast enough to capture its low power phase/state.
This phenomenon DOES show on full flrame cameras ie Nikon D90 and Canon Rebel XSI 450d, due to them having bigger sensors therefore using even more faster shutter speed. This doesn't mean that they're defective.
This phenomenon DOES NOT show on high frequency lamps such as midrange LEDs and mostly Flourescents with electronic ballast.
If you really are into photography and wanted to do it under a Flourescent lamp, read these links:
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*29830*how-does-aperture-size-or-shutter-speed-affect-color-temperature
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*43026*how-to-correct-yellowish-pictures-under-fluorescent-lighting-on-a-digital-camera#43029
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*4115*do-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed-create-a-problem-with-color-cast
http:**blog.tommyimages.com*2009*06*photographing-under-fluorescent-lights.html
https:**en.wikipedia.org*wiki*Fluorescent_lamp#Flicker_problems
- change the * to / and remove any spaces to make the link usable. My apologies for the inconvenience with the links.
If you read them properly, you should know that this do happen even on Full frame cameras. The main culprit was the magnetic ballast flourescent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
.
.
Thank you for the explanation and the effort
3DRIAN said:
If you happen to still have your Poco, this condition is NOT a hardware nor a white balance problem on Poco. This is a normal behaviour of the flourescent lighting especially when the camera is using fast shutter speed. The yellowing is a phenomenon in which the camera captures the lower portion of the flicker curve, in laymans term, when the light has just turned ON and is not on its peak power yet.
But why was it using fast shutter speed? It should use low shutter speed!
You have a camera with a sensor that can capture huge amount of light at a given intensity and has the capability to use fast shutter speed in order to not blind itself (to not overblown the image). If you ever do use a slower shutter speed, there is a huge probability of the image of being overblown or for the moving subjects to have trails. You could still make some few adjustments in manual mode.
But my old smartphone renders the proper white color!
It is true, it renders white colors because it might be having a lower aperture, smaller sensor or even smaller photocells. To put it simply, it is using slower shutter speeds because it is what it can do and it is doing well with flourescent. It is not being blinded by the light because its camera configuration is not advanced enough to capture more light on a given amount of intensity, does slow shutter speed.
Put this into your mind: At a given constant white balance, a magnetic ballast flourescent lamp will still emit yellow tint/cast whenever the camera is using fast shutter speed. This is NOT an issue of the camera itself but a limitation of of the light source itself because advanced camera systems were now fast enough to capture its low power phase/state.
This phenomenon DOES show on full flrame cameras ie Nikon D90 and Canon Rebel XSI 450d, due to them having bigger sensors therefore using even more faster shutter speed. This doesn't mean that they're defective.
This phenomenon DOES NOT show on high frequency lamps such as midrange LEDs and mostly Flourescents with electronic ballast.
If you really are into photography and wanted to do it under a Flourescent lamp, read these links:
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*29830*how-does-aperture-size-or-shutter-speed-affect-color-temperature
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*43026*how-to-correct-yellowish-pictures-under-fluorescent-lighting-on-a-digital-camera#43029
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*4115*do-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed-create-a-problem-with-color-cast
http:**blog.tommyimages.com*2009*06*photographing-under-fluorescent-lights.html
https:**en.wikipedia.org*wiki*Fluorescent_lamp#Flicker_problems
- change the * to / and remove any spaces to make the link usable. My apologies for the inconvenience with the links.
If you read them properly, you should know that this do happen even on Full frame cameras. The main culprit was the magnetic ballast flourescent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the explanation! I'm having some problems in places with that type of lights but not when pointing to them, just taking a normal picture, same picture can have that yellow tint, or not, just changing from one camera to the other one or moving around the photo a little bit....
My front cam suddenly started acting wierd. When I take selfies with sky in the background, the sky area is intemsly over exposed and when I focus the sky, the subject and everything else turns completely dark. The exposure balancing is screwed up for some reason. It doesn't matter when you take photos, the sky appears like it is flashing intense light towards the camera making the subject less visible. Even if HDR mode is enabled, the issue persists. Is it a hardware problem or a software problem?
We can clearly see the problem when compared with the results from the rear cam which works finely.
Does anybody else have a problem with lower light photos? I've read a few posts here and there, but it doesn't seem to be widespread. All pictures in low light are affected, but if I point to a brighter light source then back to the dim scene the red tint goes.
This happens in the stock app and gcam.
More likely hardware or software?