Hi everyone,
I've just got used S9+ with deep discharged battery.
I've tried to charge it over usb (with and without QC), over wireless (with and without QC) and simultaneously, which had no luck.
After that I disassembled phone and check battery voltage - it was about 1v (on Li, before controller).
I've charged it with special charger to about 4v (about 2000 mAh) - voltage on battery connector came to about 4v, looks like controller inside battery is sill alive.
But the phone is still not responding for any combinations with power button.
While cable connected, phone takes about 100mA, wireless charging about 600mA (looks like 500mA goes as losses and powers charger lights).
Of course I've checked my cables and chargers on another phone.
Does anyone got this problem? Could I save my motherboard? New one will cost over 200 usd for G965F DS version.
No ideas ?
Related
I purchased a new vent holder with a car charger, and it charges the phone up OK when it is off, but if it is on it says charging but does not actually charge. This is especially annoying with Satnav and after an hour or two the phone dies and I don't know where I am going!
Anyone know what causes this? I guess it can't provide enough power for the device, especially when using the internal GPS, but I think it doesn't even keep up with the device is just turned on.
I am getting another charger just in case, but never had the problem on my old Touch....
..
try -> start/settings/system tab/power/battery tab - uncheck the box "when the device is turned on...."
It isn't ticked...
..
try ticking it..
That will have the opposite effect, it charges fine when plugged into the wall, the problem is something to do with the car.
Does anyone use satnav on a touch HD and have it charge at the same time?
Well there could be one or two issues.
On the USB port there are four connections, a positive and a negative and two data pins. When you plug your Touch HD into a PC power is supplied down the power pins and after negotiating with the USB controller chip over the two data pins the phone will pull up-to 500mA from the power supply to run and charge the phone. This is so the USB port on the PC is not damaged by the phone overloading the power supply to the port.
Without the negotiation with the USB controller chip the device will only charge at 100mA.
But 500mA is not enough to charge the phone with everything running, you will need at least 1000mA to do that (1 Ampere). So that is what your wall charger pushes out. But how does the phone know it can charge at a higher rate? Well inside the charger the data pins on the USB connector are wired in a way that the phone 'sees' that a higher current is available, and pulls a higher charging current.
So what you need is a minimum current 1 Amp car charger. If you already have a 1 Amp then the chances are that is does not have the data pins connected properly and the phone will not draw the higher current, meaning it will only charge at 100mA.
Thanks, I am going to try another one and see if that helps, perhaps it is just faulty, otherwise I will check if it is 1Amp.
Cheers.
I contacted the seller and they sent me a new one, which works. So it turns it my charger was just faulty.
What's the rating of the new one? and where did you get it from. I bought a 2amp (supposedly) but it doesn't give me more than 500mA.
I've had this problem and it sucks! As I'm always out on the road. But I have found a few solutions. I purchased a mini usb charger from asda for £6. After adjusting the backlight to medium this charger seems to keep the power level the same as it was before you plugged it in, so It doesn't let the battery go flat. I've now learnt to keep a spare charged battery in the car just in case it fails.
The stock charger from Samsung was for 0.7Amps and it charges ok, but I find it slow.. about ~4 hours to fully change my SGS2 from with less than 10% left of battery life.
If I plug into the laptop, it takes like ~6 hours due to the slow trickle charge with 0.5Amps.
I don't know what the max pull is allowed on this phone, but I did find that when I charge with a 1Amps charger, I can get it from less than 10% to full in about ~3hours.
So, I tried a few such charges and have noticed some strangeness.. (all with the same test conditions, start charging with less than 10% and with the stock usb cable for the phone)
1) older Belink ac-usb 1Amps out put, it does seem to charge the phone good and faster finishing around ~3 hours ... but, when charging, the touch sensitivity of the screen is out of whack, any subtle movement, will cause the screen to jump around.. like in gallery, trying to select an individual pic is difficult as the screen jumps around; forget about using the browser and selecting links...not sure why..
2) HTC thunderbolt charger 1Amps output (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WM6SOU).. same issue here, charges faster, but makes the screen jump around
3) iPhone charger 1Amps output; this seems to work the best for me so far.. charges faster ~3hours and while charging the screen behaves normally, I am able to use gallery and browser fine...
4) iPad 2 charger 5.1 V and 2.1Amps: Still charges the phone ~3 hours, but same side effect...
Anyone else have the screen sensitivity issue and what chargers are you using?
I haven't seen any issue when I used a HP TouchPad Charger rated at 2.0A I think..
Max pull is 650 mA - this is set by the charger chip itself.
If the phone thinks you have a normal USB connection to PC instead of a dumb charger, it will be 400 mA.
Having a charger rated more than this won't hurt, but it won't help.
Monoprice "1A" car chargers are rated 300-400 mA at best - the ONLY monoprice product I've ever been unhappy with in my life.
In general, you want to make sure USB D+ and D- are shorted together by the charger - this guarantees that the phone sees the charger as "dumb" and goes to 650. Exception are media and car docks - whatever you connect to these will be assumed by the phone to be a high current "dumb charger".
All phone power usage (CPU, screen, etc.) counts against this current budget - e.g. if you have 200 mA of load, only 450 will be going into the battery.
Unlike the I9100, we don't appear to have any way to change these charging currents. Our phone, for whatever reason, has an additional chip for charge control (MAX8922) instead of using the charge control built into the main power management chip (MAX8997). This is disappointing, I was really hoping to bring over the "charginghacks" modifications from my Infuse kernel series.
I made myself a custom car dock for my GS3 so I could use my Titan Kraken case modified to take an extended battery. The setup works great, but I've noticed something very strange. I have an NFC tag in the dock to launch Carhome Ultra. I was noticing that on my 30 drive home from work, my battery (which is charging in the new dock) would discharge about 2%. I was using a generic micro USB cable plugged into my Ravpower DC adapter, which maxes out at 2.1 amps, which is plenty. As an experiment, yesterday on the way home, the first 15 minutes I had the generic cable plugged in. After it dropped a percentage point, I unplugged the generic cable and plugged in a cable I got with a Mophie that I had. The last 15 minutes of the trip it went up 2 percentage points. Keep in mind, same DC adapter, same phone & battery and same apps running.
Can anyone explain why this is? I have experienced the same drop with at least 2 other cables. The Mophie cable and one other that I have will 'keep up' with the power demands and actually charge the battery too.
Just wondering what I should look for when buying USB cables in the future.
The phone is 1.5 years old, everything was going smoothly till 3 months ago,when I decided to buy QI wireless charging pad and receiver. The charging pad is rated at 1.5A and the receiver coil is rated at 1A. For some reasons, the charging pins near the battery (where you are supposed to attach the qi receiver pins) don't respond to any charging voltage, whether from the qi receiver or normal wall charger.
So I extended a very thin wire from the receiver chip and connected a DIY micro usb pin to it's end. Now the receiver sends charge to the regular charging port, I know I could just buy similar "forward universal qi receiver" for this purpose, but that's the same apart from looks.
Anyways, last month the receiver coil got detached from the micro usb pin, so I stopped using wireless charging and started using the regular wall charger (stock samsung, rated 2A) again. I will buy that forward based universal qi receiver later on.
Since then, the wall charger gets quite hot and the metal part of the usb cable (which is inserted in the charger) gets TOO HOT. The phone's motherboard gets TOO HOT, I have removed the battery cover and inspected, the battery isn't the culprit, it gets a little warm as usual. Phone stops responding to touch and buttons. This happens especially when 2G or 3G data is on, but no apps are running in the background and no sync,downloading/uploading is going on. The phone lies in idle state with screen off and mobile data on.
The phone doesn't get this hot when:
1. I charge it via other phone/tablet chargers (belonging to parents), I have tried with 3 chargers, rated 1.5A, 1.2A and 1A. None of these 3 result in overheating EVEN IF I keep the screen on and use games, browser etc!
2. Charge it while switched off.
3. I had a charging cable of a cheap micromax phone lying around, it's not a data cable, simple charging cable. This cable doesn't result in overheating even with with the stock charger.
4. Once the battery level reaches around 70% (regardless of charger and cable), it doesn't get hot even with mobile data on, screen on and playing games etc.
FYI, The wireless charging setup didn't result in the phone getting this hot ever. As you all already know, the charging pads and receiver coil get quite hot but they also cool down quickly. Also the intensity of heat produced by receiver coil is not too high so as to heat up the whole phone. NOTE that I was using the charging pad with the stock samsung wall charger for that 1 month (maybe that ruined the stock charger somehow?).
Obviously if I start using the wireless charging setup again, this problem won't crop up. But I need to know whether there's any hardware damage/problem or not. To avoid this problem, I could buy another charger of lower amperage, like the moto e charger.
INFO: The phone is SM-N750 3G (Indian version) with no hardware changes. It's running on a custom rom "Unikat V5", alongside the custom recovery "Philz touch". I had installed this custom rom around 10 months back. Overheating problem started ONLY after trying out that wireless charging setup and removing it.
I bought my Pipo w6s 3 days ago and could not find much information nor links to firmware/OS for this tablet. Are there any active owners of a Pipo W6S with or without 3G at XDA?
Presently I am looking into reducing the charging time wodering if the supplied 5V 2.5A Power supply and cable is just to weak to charge/operate at the same time and if a new PS USB cable may improve the situation?[/B]
When I bought my w6s 3 days ago, a shops display model, the battery was also completely empty. Assuming that idle operation may take somewhere from 5 to 10W, this does not provide sufficient energy to operate the tablet and charge it at the same time. I learned this when I waited at the shop, while they downloaded and installed the english language pack for windows for me. Even though the w6s was on the charger for nearly an hour at just 25% brightness it still showed 0% of charge. Back at the hotel I charged the w6s, while it was turned of and it worked, but required several hours.
The battery is about 6A at 3,7 V hence 22 Wh, the power supply is 5V at 2,5 A hence 12.5 W, which allows operation, but not, if any charging is done at all, much charging. I read somewhere charging may take 6 to 7h, so the batteries do not seem to allow for fast charging and would be charged at just about 1A.
Can anyone please check the voltage of your power supply, is it just 5V or higher?
I found that while my Samsung Note 3 on the supplied power supply which has 5.4 V charges faster than on those just having 5V. When operated in the car using a 5V output PS, the Note 3 operating as GPS using sygic never charges, so I assume a PS with a slighly higher Voltage that is within the tolerances of USB may improve charging time. Another variable should be the resistance of the USB cable used, the thinner the cable/higher the resistance the lower the voltage at the w6s input. Since my PS broke on the airplane and the shop did not give me the USB cable I cannot check the manufacterer values.
Anyone any active owner? Do you have any thoughts/information?
PS. did your W6s come with any Trojans/viruses or such unpleasant things?
Hi I have these model also.
My tablet comes with 50% battery. I think the main problem for me is tree the low battery and the little support that I find for these model. I have a charger of my t100 and the tablet charges ok