Figuring out what's wrong with the Kunai... - ASUS ROG Phone II Accessories

UPDATE 12/21: Fixed, see thread: https://forum.xda-developers.com/ro...ide-asus-kunai-fixes-analog-drift-m1-t4023115
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Kunais definitely have an issue when moving both analogs simultaneously so I've tested EXTENSIVELY and have beaten my sticks to a pulp. If you move one at a time, no matter how hard you go at it, it won't get stuck, but as soon as you move both simultaneously (as anyone would do), that's when it starts going bonkers.
The sticks have no issues when used seperately.
So here is an interesting fact, when disconnecting the left Kunai, the right controller stops altogether. If removing the right side, the left Kunai still works. Also, the left has 3 rows of contact pins, the right has 2.
This tells me the left one should be the "master" of the two and yet, the USB-C is on the right.
Another fact, since these controllers clearly have no communication components (BT and/or Wi-Fi) the input data must travel through most likely a very thin copper wire that is embedded somewhere in the flexible back panel of the case... I'd assume there is one that goes from right to left and then another one from left to right, without looping.
Which brings me to what is definitely the scary part... The problem seems physical... If the data cable is too thin/too long and causing this issue, it will be a nearly impossible fix without damaging the case... Or, it is a software issue which seemingly bottlenecks input data and halts for a second but somehow, I doubt that because if that was the case, right side buttons as well as the right stick could get "stuck".
As it turns out, if you rotate the left stick and push buttons on the right side, a button can indeed get stuck.
Tl;dr - Does anybody have the center part to do some testing?
I feel like that piece is the key to understanding if it's a software conflict or hardware issue.

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WhyKlwd said:
Kunais definitely have an issue when moving both analogs simultaneously so I've tested EXTENSIVELY and have beaten my sticks to a pulp. If you move one at a time, no matter how hard you go at it, it won't get stuck, but as soon as you move both simultaneously (as anyone would do), that's when it starts going bonkers.
The sticks have no issues when used seperately.
So here is an interesting fact, when disconnecting the left Kunai, the right controller stops altogether. If removing the right side, the left Kunai still works. Also, the left has 3 rows of contact pins, the right has 2.
This tells me the left one should be the "master" of the two and yet, the USB-C is on the right.
Another fact, since these controllers clearly have no communication components (BT and/or Wi-Fi) the input data must travel through most likely a very thin copper wire that is embedded somewhere in the flexible back panel of the case... I'd assume there is one that goes from right to left and then another one from left to right, without looping.
Which brings me to what is definitely the scary part... The problem seems physical... If the data cable is too thin/too long and causing this issue, it will be a nearly impossible fix without damaging the case... Or, it is a software issue which seemingly bottlenecks input data and halts for a second but somehow, I doubt that because if that was the case, right side buttons as well as the right stick could get "stuck".
As it turns out, if you rotate the left stick and push buttons on the right side, a button can indeed get stuck.
Tl;dr - Does anybody have the center part to do some testing?
I feel like that piece is the key to understanding if it's a software conflict or hardware issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are correct, it only happens when using the two jousticks together connected to the phonr case. I have the controller dock and when using it via bluetooth, I am not getting the same issues, i can use both sticks at the same time no problem.
Can we raise this issue to asus? And hopefully it is a software issue which can be fixed via an update.
And just a tip, when you have it on bluetooth mode connected or even the left controller mounted to the phone case, you can also use other gamepads and with the touch control maping. I'm using it together with my xbox one controller this way.

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Thanks for your reply @navydragon ! That confirms a thing at least. I would assume that the controller behaves the same while in handheld/controller mode. Not guaranteed mind you.
I am about 90% sure that the case to attach the Kunais run a thin cable, most likely a non-shielded copper one that is protected by the thin sheet of flexible rubber where the phone sits. It can be unglued from the case, which I have not done entirely everywhere but if we feel it slowly with our fingers, we can sort of feel there is a little, otherwise not noticeable, little bump running under that sheet.
That could also be what's causing the issue and quite frankly, I think it is really what is at play here. There is no situations where I couldn't reproduce the glitch BUT by bending the case while trying, it does seem to increase/decrease the frequency or time it takes to create it.
Thanks again for your inputs @navydragon!

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Kunai Lag
Youtube video demonstration
[yt]/watch?v=dJfz0UetpuM
My kunai seems to be messed up
Regardless of the game I play, the right kunai controller seems to be broken or something
It's like it gets stuck with buttons being held down
Example, playing Free Fire, I shot my gun, let go of the trigger, yet it keeps firing the gun
I try to turn the camera, the camera keeps turning after I let go??
Call of duty, same issue, it's like the right analog stick is stuck down or something when it isn't
It also seems like half the time I try to aim and the right analog stick doesn't work?
What the hell is going on?

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The "lag" seems fixed in the latest CN firmware, I haven't installed the WW firmware yet but I'd assume it fixed it as well. Essentially, the 1.3.9 firmware version for the gamepad will flash on the controller and it fixes the issue.

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WhyKlwd said:
The "lag" seems fixed in the latest CN firmware, I haven't installed the WW firmware yet but I'd assume it fixed it as well. Essentially, the 1.3.9 firmware version for the gamepad will flash on the controller and it fixes the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hand/Foot cam of it in action
youtube/watch?v=Up9Qm9qUbgc
Edit: Just got the new firmware, testing now

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WhyKlwd said:
Thanks for your reply @navydragon ! That confirms a thing at least. I would assume that the controller behaves the same while in handheld/controller mode. Not guaranteed mind you.
I am about 90% sure that the case to attach the Kunais run a thin cable, most likely a non-shielded copper one that is protected by the thin sheet of flexible rubber where the phone sits. It can be unglued from the case, which I have not done entirely everywhere but if we feel it slowly with our fingers, we can sort of feel there is a little, otherwise not noticeable, little bump running under that sheet.
That could also be what's causing the issue and quite frankly, I think it is really what is at play here. There is no situations where I couldn't reproduce the glitch BUT by bending the case while trying, it does seem to increase/decrease the frequency or time it takes to create it.
Thanks again for your inputs @navydragon!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
having the same issue, check out my thread https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=81263745&postcount=3
It's honestly ruining my gaming experience

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Asentrix said:
Hand/Foot cam of it in action
youtube/watch?v=Up9Qm9qUbgc
Edit: Just got the new firmware, testing now
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let us know if it is fixed in the new firmware and let me know what firmware so I can fix this issue too please.

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Guide ASUS Kunai Fixes (Analog Drift + M1 as Start / M2 as Select) **ROOT only**
Hello everyone,
I made this thread to address two common issues that some may encounter with the Kunais. Unless there is ever an external updater released by ASUS, the known way to fix the "Right Kunai getting stuck" when in Handheld mode is to either update to CN .63 or WW .64 (it is to be assumed that later revisions should also fix that). When you first boot any of these 2, you'll be greeted with a firmware update for your accessory once connected.
The update should be 1.3.9, that will fix the right side having "stuck buttons" or the "analog drift" that occurs while using the Left side analog. From my personal testing, I was able to rollback to an older firmware with the problem no longer occuring, as long as the accessory was updated to 1.3.9 firmware.
As for the M1 and M2 buttons located behind the Kunais, when using the central unit, they can be used as extra buttons. When used in handheld mode, the hardware values leave you with two buttons that, yes can be mapped, but do not natively act as Select nor Start. That can be a problem in games/programs such as Stadia, Moonlight, or anything that do not let you remap in the software itself.
This can be fixed but will require root access. Assuming that you do:
-open up Root Explorer (quick Google search for "Root Explorer apk" if you don't have it and install that)
-once in Root Explorer, go to the root folder and click on "Mount R/W" it should change to "Mount R/O"
-Go to folder /system/usr/keylayout/
-Hold click on file "Vendor_0b05_Product_4500.kl" and make a Copy in the same folder
-It should create a copy, rename it to "Vendor_0b05_Product_7900.kl"
-Click on file you just renamed and pick "Text Editor"
-Add another blank line under "key 318..."
-Type "key 264 BUTTON_START"
-Enter another blank line
-Type "key 265 BUTTON_SELECT''
-Click on 3 dots top right and choose "Save and Exit"
From there, you can disconnect AND reconnect your Gamepad and your M1 and M2 buttons should now behave as START and SELECT respectively as would any BT gamepad.
If for any reason, that does not work, it is possible the your Kunais revision bears a different Vendor and Product ID. In such case, I would recommend getting any free Gamepad Tester program from Play Store and when testing, most if not all, should give you the name, vendor ID and product ID of your hardware being tested. If these numbers are different than the values in this guide, simply swap the values of the .kl file and that should work.
Cheers!

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iBluesurge said:
Let us know if it is fixed in the new firmware and let me know what firmware so I can fix this issue too please.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Made a thread there, I can confirm that it is fixed, plus I covered how to fix M1 and M2 not behaving as Start/Select respectively. Cheers!

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Your method works to reassign m1 and m2 into start and select, but unfortunately it makes left and right triggers into some key representing (|) for both. If there is a way to fix this then your method would be great. I tested it in a gamepad tester.
Left and right trigger register as key 313 in the gamepad tester.

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iBluesurge said:
Your method works to reassign m1 and m2 into start and select, but unfortunately it makes left and right triggers into some key representing (|) for both. If there is a way to fix this then your method would be great. I tested it in a gamepad tester.
Left and right trigger register as key 313 in the gamepad tester.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That 313 trigger seems to come from "Keyboard" if anything, I'd assume whichever game you ran tests with probably has AirTrigger or a Gamepad Mapping still functional because that Keyboard trigger for 313 would most likely be something mimicking the touchscreen OR some BT device. But for reference, that is what my .kl looks like.
# Asus Gamepad
key 304 BUTTON_A
key 305 BUTTON_B
key 307 BUTTON_X
key 308 BUTTON_Y
key 310 BUTTON_L1
key 311 BUTTON_R1
key 316 BUTTON_MODE
key 317 BUTTON_THUMBL
key 318 BUTTON_THUMBR
key 265 BUTTON_SELECT
key 264 BUTTON_START
key 158 BACK
key 172 HOME
axis 0x00 X
axis 0x01 Y
axis 0x02 Z
axis 0x05 RZ
axis 0x09 RTRIGGER
axis 0x0a LTRIGGER
axis 0x10 HAT_X
axis 0x11 HAT_Y

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WhyKlwd said:
That 313 trigger seems to come from "Keyboard" if anything, I'd assume whichever game you ran tests with probably has AirTrigger or a Gamepad Mapping still functional because that Keyboard trigger for 313 would most likely be something mimicking the touchscreen OR some BT device. But for reference, that is what my .kl looks like.
# Asus Gamepad
key 304 BUTTON_A
key 305 BUTTON_B
key 307 BUTTON_X
key 308 BUTTON_Y
key 310 BUTTON_L1
key 311 BUTTON_R1
key 316 BUTTON_MODE
key 317 BUTTON_THUMBL
key 318 BUTTON_THUMBR
key 265 BUTTON_SELECT
key 264 BUTTON_START
key 158 BACK
key 172 HOME
axis 0x00 X
axis 0x01 Y
axis 0x02 Z
axis 0x05 RZ
axis 0x09 RTRIGGER
axis 0x0a LTRIGGER
axis 0x10 HAT_X
axis 0x11 HAT_Y
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would you be willing to show me that left and right trigger still function for you on a gamepad tester? Also I copy and pasted what you have shown and it still shows a keyboard key for left and right trigger in the gamepad tester.

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Is it possible to change the right analog sensitivity using this method?

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iBluesurge said:
Would you be willing to show me that left and right trigger still function for you on a gamepad tester? Also I copy and pasted what you have shown and it still shows a keyboard key for left and right trigger in the gamepad tester.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uh....That's interesting, it wasn't registering as button 312 and yet, now it does... Both L2 and R2 does it. I'll have to dig deeper and see what causes that but yeah, it seems you are right, there must be a trigger of some kind.
UPDATE: You are absolutely right, it breaks the mapping. I'm working on fixing it, if not in the next hour, it'll be updated in the next 12hours.

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Hello, I've tested the WW .64 firmware, and I can confirm that it really fix the issue with the right controller. But im also encountering right now an issue with the right analog. When i gently press the right analog to the left and let it go, it seems like the input doesn't properly go back to the center. I've already tested with the holder directly connected to the phone and it doesn't occur. Can you please also test if it is also happening to your controller? Thanks

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@xenken: I might be too tired to read this properly but at least when trying to recreate your conflict, I haven't had any issues as you seem to encounter, but I'll try again tomorrow.
Alright, I will make edits for the guide tomorrow cause right now, I'm exhausted and my bed is calling me. That being said, here is an edited .kl which is, so far, the best compromise I found. All keys work and have values that they should, L2 and R2 can now be mapped independently in ASUS's software but SELECT (M2) does not map any longer.
I get the feeling that some HEX path overlap between keys and is what causes the conflict, I tried many alternatives to no avail.
EDIT: This should be my last edit, I cleaned up what's in the quote. If you copy that precisely, all buttons will behave as expected AND all but "Select" will be mappable in Key Mapping software of ASUS. I've tested in native apps like Retroarch, Minecraft, Moonlight, Stadia App, Stadia through Chrome, PStreamer, etc... Enjoy!
# Copyright (C) 2014 The Android Open Source Project
#
# Licensed under the Apache License, Version 2.0 (the "License");
# you may not use this file except in compliance with the License.
# You may obtain a copy of the License at
#
# http://www.apache.org/licenses/LICENSE-2.0
#
# Unless required by applicable law or agreed to in writing, software
# distributed under the License is distributed on an "AS IS" BASIS,
# WITHOUT WARRANTIES OR CONDITIONS OF ANY KIND, either express or implied.
# See the License for the specific language governing permissions and
# limitations under the License.
# Asus Gamepad
key 264 BUTTON_START
key 265 BUTTON_SELECT
key 304 BUTTON_A
key 305 BUTTON_B
key 307 BUTTON_X
key 308 BUTTON_Y
key 310 BUTTON_L1
key 311 BUTTON_R1
key 312 BUTTON_L2
key 313 BUTTON_R2
key 317 BUTTON_THUMBL
key 318 BUTTON_THUMBR
axis 0x00 X
axis 0x01 Y
axis 0x02 Z
axis 0x05 RZ
axis 0x09 RTRIGGER
axis 0x0a LTRIGGER
axis 0x10 HAT_X
axis 0x11 HAT_Y
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

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WhyKlwd said:
@xenken: I might be too tired to read this properly but at least when trying to recreate your conflict, I haven't had any issues as you seem to encounter, but I'll try again tomorrow.
Alright, I will make edits for the guide tomorrow cause right now, I'm exhausted and my bed is calling me. That being said, here is an edited .kl which is, so far, the best compromise I found. All keys work and have values that they should, L2 and R2 can now be mapped independently in ASUS's software but SELECT (M2) does not map any longer.
I get the feeling that some HEX path overlap between keys and is what causes the conflict, I tried many alternatives to no avail.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is this working for xcloud? if so i may have to root my phone or wait for ASUS to fix m1 m2 as start and select which idk if they would ever fix haha

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Kunai and mobile desktop dock
Hello everyone! I've got both accessories and they're driving me crazy. I tried to make them work with cod mobile and and the perspective function seems dead. In the main menu when I use the kunai right analog the character moves but in game it's completely dead. When I use the mouse with the dock it goes completely crazy, it stops working every 2-3 seconds. I tried both accessories with pubg and had no issues it works perfectly. Tried to check the Asus forum but no success. If anyone knows the problem and can help me it'll be very nice. Thanks ?

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Cod mobile doesn't support Asus Rog 2 kunai gamepad.. Actually COD mobile doesn't support any type of gamepad. That's y you r having this issue. Its not a problem with Asus rog 2.
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