I wanted to check the RAW capabilities of the 9T Pro main camera with the GCam. I am using Urnyx05's version 1.6 cam (not that that should change things for RAW if it is a true implementation). Raw file size was 23.1mb.
Today in Bangkok there is a fair amount of particles in the air and there is a noticeable line on the horizon before the blue sky starts. The image I took was not for composition but to check the dynamic range and noise. The bottom right of the scene is in mid morning shadow and I am facing basically west. Focus was set about 5.5 metres away form the camera near the rear wheel of the green Totoya in the right foreground.
Shadow noise was surprisingly better than I was expecting. I raised shadows with limited noise. But there is both colour noise and Luminance noise in the RAW image. There is a bit of chromatic aberration noticeable with zoomed in 2x in a few areas but it is mild. There is softening in the corners and this is particularly noticeable on the leaves in the top right hand corner. EDIT: It looks like my cam just seems to be softer in the top right hand corner than the top left hand corner. This is not uncommon on DSLR lenses either, but worth noting.
All in all it it was better than I expected. I have attached exported JPG (saved at a maximum 3mb size from Lightroom) and the settings for noise control and sharpening. Note these settings are based on a sample size of 1. No doubt I will change these to a more standardised preset as I manipulate more images.
I will be heading to Japan and Taiwan this week and I am still tossing up on whether to take my DSLR or just use my 9T Pro on a tripod. Either way I will be sure to use the phone cam to get a better range of images to continue reviewing the outputs of this 48mp sensor.
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Shooting in RAW is worth it for the main sensor.
Other sensors are inferior and you see their limitations in the RAW files. Wish the wide angle was of higher quality.
Related
running BAMF 1.8.6. all pictures that i take appear grainy. ive checked the TB forums but nothing useful. are y'all experiencing the same or am i missing something? any fixes? different rom? different kernel? camera?
thanks
mark
markkal123 said:
running BAMF 1.8.6. all pictures that i take appear grainy. ive checked the TB forums but nothing useful. are y'all experiencing the same or am i missing something? any fixes? different rom? different kernel? camera?
thanks
mark
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Clean the lens, make sure you have good lighting as well.
Sent from my thunderstick
"clean the lense" - my first thought. grainy regardless of lighting condition but not as grainy outside in natural sunlight.
Rule out the rom, 1.8.6 is mint for me.
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
I've noticed pictures are grainy on any rom for the TB and on the Incredible. It seems to happen most when you do not have enough natural light or when you are zooming. Phones do not have optical zoom they have digital zoom and there is a difference. I think digital just adds more pixels where as optical actually magnifies.
I took this one zoomed about 3/4 of the way in today in bright sunlight using BaMF 1.8.6 Remixed. It's the only picture I've taken so far since flashing the rom though.
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yeah just wish my pictures werent so grainy
Digital zoom is pretty much useless - its equivalent to just cropping the photo. The graininess I think you're referring to is noise, rather than pixelation. You get noise when the total amount of light that hits the sensor is low, and with the tiny sensor on the TB (and most phones in general), this is impossible to avoid in many cases.
I do remember talk with some GB roms a while back about overclocking to 1.4 GHz for better camera performance. Maybe this would help? I can't imagine it would hurt...
I got a replacement phone because the headset speaker died on my original one. I don't remember having this issue on the original phone. Can you guys take a picture of a white wall or ceiling in medium light and see if you have this problem. Otherwise I might have to see about another exchange.
Also, it seems that this has been a problem since the i9100 was introduced but I don't remember it before.
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that's a light issue, not a camera issue. turn your flash on. besides, when is there ever a time that I need a picture of the ceiling?
(by the way, I checked this on 3 phones, the ones in my signature, and it does it on all 3 phones. Then I turn on my flash on the gs2 (since the other ones don't have a flash) and it goes away. in order not to get it without your flash, you have to be in more natural sunlight)
You've never taken a picture of something white before?
The ceiling is just an easy example.
harlenm said:
You've never taken a picture of something white before?
The ceiling is just an easy example.
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I have, but if it's outside I don't get this red spot. And if it's inside, I don't get it either if I use the flash. I don't see that as a bug in the camera. My wife is a photographer. This is coming from her. It's the light.
---------- Post added at 10:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:39 AM ----------
I also just took some pictures of things around the house that are on a white background. like pictures on our wall. I took some with flash, and some without. Now it appears that this red spot for me only shows up if the picture is completely white and I don't use the flash. If anything else is in the picture, it's gone - with or without the flash. Seems like a non-issue to me.
Read up on how to do a white balance for your camera.
As you go further out from the optical center of the camera, the angle which the light makes with the normal to the detector increases. This in turn means that, toward the edges, there's more chance that a light ray will travel through more than one of the colour filters, resulting in a color shift at the edges.
Here, it looks as though the camera white-balance has fixed a colour shift around the edges, at the expense of the center shifted to pink.
Phrases to google if you're interested: "pixel crosstalk", "bayer filter", CFA.
All smaller imagers are prone to this; they're simply too short for the optics to be close to telecentric (i.e. all rays hit detector at 90°). In a scene where there's a better range of colour and lighting, you likely wouldn't notice any problem at all. If you do, then cell-phone cameras aren't for you
AoN
this 52mm lens is bothering me.
Photos from 2x zoom under normal light and lowlight environment most of them are digital zoom photo from 26mm lenses (fake 52mm photo,digital zoom). Difficult to switch to real 52mm lens, sometime the 26mm digital zoom and 52mm preview screen have been switching continuously after press 2X button ,nonstop. sometime delay, sometime lagging.
I know that sometimes multiple cameras will be “camouflaged” into other focal lengths based on light level with digital zoom.But the requirement to switch to real 52mm lens is too harsh in xperia 1. In a restaurant normal light environment you just can't switch to 52mm.
In the same low light , when you lucky switch to a 52mm lens, the picture clarity is much better than the 26m digital zoom from 2X ,I compared a lot are all same result. Ps4 gamepad is illuminated with a desk lamp and use a phone tripod for stable，2X always on 26mm digital zoom status,try switch 1x-2x like 50 times,finally got a 52mm one. Hope this is just a software issue or separate case, I need to know do I have to go service or wait update.
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from 2X (52mm)
from 2X (still 26mm digital zoom)
left 52mm, right 26mm digital zoom,both 2X
rom 2X (still 26mm digital zoom)
from 2X (52mm)
J9110 Hong Kong version 55.0A.2.2.278
I just tried a few other xperia1 in store all the same problem, under bright light shooting dark object it switching continuously between 26mm digital zoom and 52mm lens ,.sometime delay, sometime lagging. It seems this is a software problem ，also 52mm lens focusing slow and unfocus in short distance sometime. Other say that the Note9 used to have the same problem.Hope this can be adjust better in software update.
After some trial，I found that when 2X macro shooting , it uses the 26mm digital zoom to get closer distance. This is no problem. The problem is that switching between 2X lenses and the main lens digital zoom in some common normal light environment is still annoying，for example, under regular supermarket lighting take some distant products,the effect of 52mm is much better than the digital zoom of the main camera,the camera seems very difficult to choose which one to use.The only way to sure switch 52mm is to use portrait mode, then drag the background blur effect to 0 , But the photo capacity is 15M, which is three times of the normal camera mode.
I tried other mobile phones, some of the main camera pixels are very high, so it is advisable to use the digital zoom of the main camera to simulate telephoto in some scenes.In xperia1 case need more detailed adjustment.
Same issues here ..
Note that the described tinting effect is IMO, and based on my eagle eye and 30+ years experience in the field neither caused by the color of the backlight LEDs (as one would immediately think from seeing the snapshots; I know backlight color variations ... this clearly isn’t one), nor as someone presumed, the panel lamination glue.
Question to Android developers who are familiar with Display Color Profiles/CLUTs and output filters (if such exist):
Already owning an Alldocube kPad and iPlay 20s, which I'm highly satisfied with, I recently purchased 8 pcs. of Alldocube’s new iPlay 50 via AliExpress (excellent deal: each 2 pcs. for a total of USD 225 delivered). The hardware built quality is as with the previous models excellent, but the display on the iPlay 50 has a major problem:
When placing the iPlay 50 next to the excellent kPad and iPlay 20s one notices that
the colors are completely off and have a greenish tint
an artificial contrast enhancement/image sharpening effect is obviously applied, which adds an annoying and disturbing halo effect to detailed areas and edges where dark colors adjoins lighter color (e.g. black against medium grey).
Both effects are globally, so not limited to a specific app or screen area.
Unfortunately the effect is very difficult to capture in photos, attached below are my best efforts (the chinese comments are meant for Alldocube’s Customer Support, which isn't very supportive on this issue, although it would be in their best interest).
In my opinion it is not a hardware (LCD panel), but rather a software issue, thus should be easily fixable by their software engineers. Note that it is NOT POSSIBLE to correct these problems through Android’s Settings > Display > Contrast & Colors! The greenish tint remains, and so do the artifacts of the unwanted, unnecessary sharpening. Greenish tint also isn’t affected by Material You.
Any suggestions or ideas how to fix this? Because if I can’t fix it, I'll have to return those tablets, which would be real pity, as the tablet as such with its laminated 2.000*1.200px 10.4" IPS panel is an excellent bargain.
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hello
i bought brand new one and its like yours i think that the lcd pannel are just bad quality
I have never seen a screen as bad as iPlay 50. I think it would be better if rooted to adjust the sharpness.
i forwarded this post to the seller, hopefully we get some update on it soon cuz i also experience this issue
I've got some time ago this app for free and never really used and now I wanted to give a try with a JPG comparison and for my surprise it is way better than stock, in the attachment the samples.
This is the link for the app:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.riseupgames.proshot2
For the Proshot picture I shot in: JPG, P, ISO 50, no noise reduction, Detail turned off, IMG+ turned off, Topaz Denoise and Sharpen.
Proshot seems to be way better than stock, its a pitty it does not support 50mpx yet.
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PROSHOT
STOCK
Wow.. look way sharper... Do you have any other comparison like outdoor? ppl?
There are many version of gcam available and not really complicated to install.
Is this better?
Hmmm, the stock image looks either out of focus or soft by motion blur... would it be possible to show other samples, also from other scenarios ? That would be great
Does Proshot support all lenses on the S23U ?
Both pictures where shoot in the same condition, I will try to do other test but the test shows detail and color rendition
citytrader said:
Both pictures where shoot in the same condition, I will try to do other test but the test shows detail and color rendition
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The problem is that this is a painting so we have to point of reference in our mind as to how exactly it looks in real life. If you go out and take a picture of like trees and buildings, it's easier for us to compare. Though I agree that proshot does look sharp and nice! Just hard to tell if it's not too sharp compared to real life?
PhilMorin said:
The problem is that this is a painting so we have to point of reference in our mind as to how exactly it looks in real life. If you go out and take a picture of like trees and buildings, it's easier for us to compare. Though I agree that proshot does look sharp and nice! Just hard to tell if it's not too sharp compared to real life?
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I will do more testing because in some test I did today seems that even if I disable in camera sharpening, the app applies sharpening. Other thing I found is noise pattern this camera creates that is more difficult to Topaz to remove (somethin that not happen with Canon for example) but I will arrive to a bette conclusion when I do more test.
What about ProShop post-processing? Will be great some examples of outdoors pictures vs stock cam...
As long as the RAW issue with ProShot on the S23U is not fixed this app is virtually unusable with this device.
When shooting RAW you always the the image from the 1x module even when using 0.5x, 3x or 10x.
At least the guys at Rise Up Games are aware and looking for a way to fix the issue.
Also video stabilization is not present or working on the S23U in combination with ProShot.