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ok i may have this completely wrong as i have not tested it yet but i noticed on the back of my tg01 i had 2 round black stickers, one top left, one middle left.
After peeling this stickers off i have 2 little ports which look remarkably like the ports used on internal wifi chips (laptops, nintendo ds) which the areial plugs into for the wifi signal
We can now enhance the tg01's wifi reception with a little careful wire placement
i hope his helps someone with the wifi reception & maybe better battery life as its not having to try so hard for a signal
comments?
Are you sure one of those are not for a external GSM antenna? Like for using in a car
no, i did think this but they are to small. only 2-3mm across. i know what im talking about when it comes to hardware, they are definitely wifi ant. ports.
http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?i...internal+wifi+connector&um=1&hl=en&tbs=isch:1
this site has loads of pics and prices for the relevant hardware
its called an ipx connector, the pigtails they sell can be used to act as the antennae.
i think this could be a good thing
that connector u linked in is a standard connector used with laptop wifi card , they have a little pin in the middle , the connector on the tg01 has no pin in the middle , the ring around it is the shading
kk here is what i know so far.....
most (if not all) builtin wifi chips have an antenae port out, i know this through research with the nintendo ds, and internal laptop chip on various laptops ranging from toshiba to sony.
they commonly have two of the ipx ports for the loop with the wifi flylead.
it may be possible qualcomm have used a proprietary ipx adapter for extra sales through the hardware of there chipset or toshiba have gotten the grubby little hands on it and done it that way
we need people who want to run an experiment on this and find out if they are what i think they are or if im completely wrong
volunteers????
i happen to have a connector ur looking for , but , it doesnt have a pin in the middle and its 90' angled so it wont fit unless i get the back cover off ... with that said , i dont have a 3angled srewdriver thats needed
... ill make some pics later
could it be possible the snapdragon chipset has done away with the pin for a design point? they may be purely there as a dud bit of hardware as qualcomm have directly etched the wifi ant onto pcb and not allowing the flylead?
or...
they may be semi usable with the core (the bit with the pin) etched onto the pcb and the earth allowed to be enhanced by just using the outer rim of these ipx ports?
or...
im totally wrong and as well as the usb host function you could attach a couple of jump leads to the beast via these ports and jump start that big ol v8 what keeps stalling?
Perhaps they could be test points, do you think you can show us a photograph?
i will upload pics tomorrow, they wont be great quality as i have to use my wifes blackberry for em and it dont take great up close pics.
test points are a possibility, tbh it did cross my mind but usually there just dotson the pcb, not ports, but it is a more advanced piece of hardware.
just out of interest but if you were to hook it up with the ports via usb, there would be a chance you could damage it because of the power usb ports output. if it turns out to be wifi then your gonna blow the chip or worse.
but if you want to try it then by all means psot results
hope this help
http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/5106/p1210021g.jpg
nice one!
looks like it connects two aerials for better wifi/radio
compare the connector with this
i558.photobucket.com/albums/ss28/linyedongwyl/Intel-5300-half.jpg
thats the connector for the ipx that has been linked earlier , this is a little different , it would be nice to see what the connectors look like on the tg's wires?
alrite , lets compare this baby to the xperia x1
www.phonewreck.com/wiki/images/b/b2/Xperia_x1_pcb_1.jpg
u can clearly see it also has two unused connectors of the same kind wich appear to be unused /but on tg the two upper ones were connected on the pcb!!!/
as for the interconnection of unknown function on the backplate they used the battery cover to pass it thru(the cover's back is unpainted on thoose specific points to give conduction) if it were to just hold the cover in place the would of left the paint on
see the four pins on the phone around the battery
www.ubergizmo.com/photos/2009/3/xperia-x1-battery.jpg
so i was right, we can get better wifi signal with these ports.
and then
better signal + less energy needed = better battery life
and the SE using the conductor pins for the back cover they have used that on the old w series of phones to. no real idea of what it does though
thanks to those who uploaded pics, helped out a lot with explaining what they are and the circuit detail.
so who' gonna be the first to install this on there phone and so testing for battery life and signal improvement?
Did you get anywhere with this? Very interested!
This sort of thing would surely work:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/800-900-1...099221?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item4ced70add5
IPX antenna.
Alternatively.. what would almost 100% work is a replacement antenna cable for the tg01
Although I could be wrong... if you look at this review of the LG P990 (Optimus 2X) you will notice the two different types of connector: http://www.anandtech.com/show/4144/...gra-2-review-the-first-dual-core-smartphone/9
External aerial points for testing the phones at the factory? Can they be used/abused to get an external or bigger aerial setup? What connector is that without the pin????????
Update.. is it an MMCX connector ? (or even MMCX-KC). I am tempted to buy one from ebay (although my TG01 is bricked LMAO, at least I'd know if it fit!) Pretty certain now it's an MMCX connector. Now trouble is... you can get that connector for GSM and GPS... so what are the connectors for I wonder.
For example.. I have terrible reception in the office so having a bigger external aerial on the phone may help, but I'd be interested in a better GPS cable as well Let's have some fun!
EDIT: OR.. I just had a look at my Moto V3i external connection and that is almost identical to the connectors on the TG01.. and it looks like you can get an aerial/antenna kit for the v3/v3i Might give it ago but it's pricey at about £20 :-(
LMAO @ this link: http://www.ehow.com/how_7580234_increase-reception-v3i.html Fancy testing a paperclip guys?
Well... I just ordered a 3G/UMTS antenna from china (so will be a while) with a MMCX connector. I will let you guys know if it fits AND works
Another edit LOL: I also just ordered another external antenna. This time for the V3i RAZR, as it looks like it has the same connector type as the TG01, so will give that a go. Only cost £8.05 for the adaptor and the antenna, so not 'too' bad for something that should fit.
I use my S2 tethered to my laptop (via USB) but what it means when I'm away from a power source is my laptop discharges quicker because it's charging the phone. So I end up with dead laptop battery, fully charged S2.
I'd like to be able to not have the phone charge when connected.
I've heard there are issues with creating WiFi hotspots? It didn't work for me on first attempt so I didn't pursue it further.
Possibly if you cut the +5volt and ground wire in the usb cable it might work, then you'd have only the +/- data wires. Just do a bit more research on this as im just thinking out loud, no idea if this will actually work.
In case you use Siyah-kernel, adjusting the charging current is also an option.
WiFi-hotspot-tethering should work, too, however, it will also give faster battery drain of the mobile (and the laptop also has to keep WiFi active).
Hi guys,
The archos addon 3g usb stick doesnt activate when switched on through the control panel? It will only activate if I reboot the tablet but nothing happens when using the quick access settings (control) panel or the regular settings panel. Major drag!
Is it a bug or is there anything I can do about it?
Cheers,
Rick
I'm having the same issue sometimes, sometimes it works.
What might be happening is port itself going bad as Archos seems to have used a flimsy ribbon cable on the 3G port. Since the port can actually move in and out it stresses the ribbon cable and breaks the data traces in it.
See this post over on the Archos Fans website. It has pictures in it showing the ribbon cable in question. It seems the power traces can still deliver power but the data traces are smaller and pretty much get destroyed.
So the port will get power, but not able to send data essentially.
Djirin said:
What might be happening is port itself going bad as Archos seems to have used a flimsy ribbon cable on the 3G port. Since the port can actually move in and out it stresses the ribbon cable and breaks the data traces in it.
See this post over on the Archos Fans website. It has pictures in it showing the ribbon cable in question. It seems the power traces can still deliver power but the data traces are smaller and pretty much get destroyed.
So the port will get power, but not able to send data essentially.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had this once and sent my 80G9 to Archos to get it repaired. A solution is not to slide the stick out, so the cable is not stressed to much. On the new one I sometimes have the problem that it takes a while to connect to the 3G stick or I need to reboot. But it depends on the firmware aswell.
rulerofkaos said:
I had this once and sent my 80G9 to Archos to get it repaired. A solution is not to slide the stick out, so the cable is not stressed to much. On the new one I sometimes have the problem that it takes a while to connect to the 3G stick or I need to reboot. But it depends on the firmware aswell.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The internal cable connection is one issue... the hardware design itself and the driver/software is another.
Please have a look at dmesg output if the 3G stick refuses to connect.
There seems to be some trouble to detect devices on the host port in general after a while. A reboot generally fixes these issues.
Might be something with the USB PHY not getting resetted properly or other things after sending the device to sleep...
Anyway as long as the stick works after reboot it's more or less acceptable for me.
Have fun!
scholbert
I checked the dmsg log after connecting and switching the port on & off. This produces various errors such as 'cannot enumerate device' and 'write error on temp directory' and bunch of other problems which might or might not have anything to do with the issue concerning the secondary cpu boot. It seems the driver had been implemented poorly. The only thing that works consistently is rebooting the device but as soon as it's gone to sleep for a short period, it cannot activate the 3gstick anymore. Please note this is the original Archos 3G stick which cost me an extra 65euro's on top of the 300euro's I spent on the G9....
So...I get home one morning, I'm sitting at 7%... and I forgot my AC Plug at work. I'm right in the middle of doing a lot of tweaking/benchmarking, basically stuck in 'phone mode'...I plug into my computer and the notorious "You're draining more current than the charger is supplying" hits... So I start searching for some way to increase that. I noticed that my ASROCK motherboard on my home computer had some software that let me increase the charging rate of the USB ports.. it was awesome, because I constantly plug in there and it would barely supply enough juice to keep me hacking away at the phone.
At work on my laptop, I was doing some research.. it appears every major motherboard manufacturer has some type of utility like this! They seem pretty hardware specific, but they seem to support a pretty wide range of their line-up.
Now, I do want to say use this at your own risk because extra power IS extra power. I'm pretty confident that the majority of USB hardware out in the wild right now (as long as you're using at least a half-modern desktop or laptop) is *probably* capable of supplying the current for this, but I just want to put that out there. If you decide to use this (on hardware that is obviously not supported), it's at your own risk. I haven't heard/seen much trouble from it, though... I've been using it for a couple days now and it's a lifesaver at work when I forgot my AC plug. If you have hardware from a given manufacturer, then I'd suggest you use their version (check who makes your mainboard for bigbox laptops/desktops)
Also, Faux's ICS Kernel supports forcing AC charging on any USB plug. I do not recommend doing any data transfer while doing this. I would wouldn't recommend using this on old hardware... actually you'd probably be better off only using it on USB 3.0 ports only, but I've successfully using Force AC charge mode on my laptop with only USB 2.0 ports without issue for a couple months now. You can enable this with a shell script, I personally use a Tasker shortcut with a task set up that does the command [IF %FCSTATE = 0] ( echo 1 > /sys/kernel/fast_charge/force_fast_charge ) checks to make sure it's enabled ( cat /sys/kernel/fast_charge/force_fast_charge ) puts the return into a variable ( %FCSTATE ), makes a sound, then places a permanent notification in the statusbar, and a 3s pop-up that notifies me it's been turned on (with an IF condition verifying that it is indeed turned on, IF %FCSTATE = 1)... second part of teh tasker shortcut is [ ELSE IF %FCSTATE = 1 ] ( echo 0 > /sys/kernel/fast_charge/force_fast_charge ), check to make sure it's disabled ( cat /sys/kernel/fast_charge/force_fast_charge ), put the state into a variable (%FCSTATE), make a different sound, remove the notification, and a pop-up window telling me fast-charge is off. The sound/popup/notification all have IF %FCSTATE = 0.. be ensure that it's off. The cat script places the return value into %FCSTATE. Force AC charging mode is truly useful for pesky car chargers that won't give their full current and are detected as USB instead of AC. There's actually a "safe mode" implemented into Faux's kernel now that will prevent Forced AC charging when there's a USB peripheral detected, which will prevent forced AC charging on on USB 2.0/3.0 ports that are on a computer/laptop etc. This is a good setting if you're only using Forced AC charging for a crappy car charger or some other "dumb" device. You can invoke this mode with [ echo 2 > /sys/kernel/fast_charge/force_fast_charge ]
Be careful with forcing AC charge on older hardware etc, again I don't personally recommend using it on USB 2.0 ports, USB 2.0 is rated to a maximum safe current of a Standard downstream port of 500mA, USB 3.0 is 900mA. This is why you don't want to force fast_charge on a USB 2.0 Standard downstream port. (I do it, but I'm willing to accept the risk... it has worked for me, it might completely ruin your hardware. Use at your own risk) There's also Charging downstream ports, these can handle up to .9A (2.0/3.0) (During high-speed data transfer.), they can provide more than that when there's no data transfer going on, but we don't need much more than that honestly, with no data transfer going on these can provide anywhere from 1A-2A, depeneding on the device. These type of ports are found on desktop computers pretty often. There's also Dedicated Charging Ports, these are the ports you find on wall-plugs, car-chargers, etc. These provide anywhere from 500mA-2A, whatever the actually device is rated. You can find out if the port you're connected to is a Standard downstream port, a Downstream charging port, or a dedicated charging port by calling a read-only sysfs file with this shell command, [ cat /sys/kernel/fast_charge/USB_porttype_detected ], this will return the type of port you're connected to in plain text. Also, there's a TON of variation in actual USB hardware and true capabilities. There's going to be lots of USB 2.0 ports can can easily supply 900mA of current, but there's no way to know for sure until you ruin some hardware. I just want to stress this because I don't want people using this to force AC charging on shoddy USB 2.0 ports and frying their motherboard or whatever. Lots of people using forced AC charging on USB 2.0 ports with great success, just use your judgement.
Here's a list of motherboard manufacturers who offer enhanced charging drivers for their hardware. This is completely different than Forced AC Charging (in Faux's Kernel). Now, I'm not sure if you need to force AC charge with some of these or not.. You probably DO if it's only a USB 2.0 port, because the phone might limit you to 500mA max. I know that with ASROCK's driver/software, I didn't have to force fast charge to see substantial increase in charge current. MSI Advertises on their site that even a USB 2.0 port is capable of up to 1.5A of current with their Super Charger, and other manufacturer's are similar. I wouldn't be too concerned about forcing AC charging if you have hardware that's supported by any of this software. Please check the manufacturer's website, etc.
ASUS AiCharger] (Supposedly only works on APPLE devices, mixed reports. No idea on this one)
MSI Supercharger
Gigabyte ON/OFF Charge
ASRock AppCharger
Biostar Charger Booster
ECS EZ Charger
Foxxconn offers a program called "Smart Charger", but they don't have an advertisement page and it's included with drivers/etc for their motherboards, so I'd check their main site if you have a Foxconn board.
I've personally only used the ASRock AppCharger and ASUS AiCharger.. your mileage may vary, use at your own risk etc etc etc. I've just found this to be immensely useful and I wanted to share. . Some people do report noticeably slower data transfer rates after the installation of these programs (which I would attribute to noise from power on the line, I guess), so keep that in mind. Not everyone experiences this (I sure didn't)
Check it with CurrentWidget, Android Tuner(This is Battery Monitor Widget and System Tuner rolled into 1 app, same people who make both of them), or Battery Monitor Widget... you'll see a huge difference in the amount of current you get from USB (Our Amaze does support current draw reporting, so the number you get from these isn't exactly an estimate. I wouldn't call it super accurate, but it's a pretty good representation of ingoing/outgoing current from the battery. Great for finding out battery drain etc)
Hope you guys get as much use out of these as I do!
Setup the gigabyte on/off charge is installed on my 970 ud3
If I remember right my motherboard has x3 power boost on the usb 2.0 ports and usb 3.0 is already has a higher voltage over 2.0
Sent From HTC Amaze 4G Via Tapatalk2
Hello,
I have a 12V computer FAN and I want to install onto my PX5 to cool it. If I connect the fan to the yellow wire (12V) when I turn off the motor, will the fan also turn off? Is the unit only on when the engine is started?
Thank you!
Are fans necessary on the PX5? What brand are you running? I thought they were better these days?
Yellow is direct to Battery and always on.
Red is via ignition and only on when ignition s on.
RobRoy said:
Yellow is direct to Battery and always on.
Red is via ignition and only on when ignition s on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Finally I don't install the fan unit, temperature tests do not give better results.
I have another question about the connection of the power supply. I have problemas with keeping the memory of time. I have read this one: http://bbs.xtrons.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16
In the post they say to connect the long yellow wire to the battery, but will there be battery drain problems if the unit is connected always? Can I connect it to another 12V car connection?
thanks in advance!
txesterfield said:
Finally I don't install the fan unit, temperature tests do not give better results.
I have another question about the connection of the power supply. I have problemas with keeping the memory of time. I have read this one: http://bbs.xtrons.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16
In the post they say to connect the long yellow wire to the battery, but will there be battery drain problems if the unit is connected always? Can I connect it to another 12V car connection?
thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The quoted article explains connection. Battery drain is not an issue. If unsure, suggest seeking the advice of a reputable installer.
txesterfield said:
Finally I don't install the fan unit, temperature tests do not give better results.
I have another question about the connection of the power supply. I have problemas with keeping the memory of time. I have read this one: http://bbs.xtrons.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16
In the post they say to connect the long yellow wire to the battery, but will there be battery drain problems if the unit is connected always? Can I connect it to another 12V car connection?
thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not trying to sound cruel here, but if you're connecting the long yellow wire directly to the battery, why would it drain more than connecting it to another 12V line? You're aware of how electricity works right (or maybe not)? Perhaps you should read up on current draw, direct current etc. Connecting the yellow wire direct to the battery will make no difference. My only suggestion is, if you go via battery rather than another subsystem, you add an extra fuse. Unfused wires are dangerous.
The yellow wire provides power to the clock and the memory. Nothing more. If you want the memory to be written down to NAND, you can set this in factory settings. Not a bad little hack for those who don't fancy wiring in the yellow wire, but then you might find the deep sleep function is erratic. The clock will still be lost as well, so you'll need that to update either via NTP or GPS. I believe the power consumption is around 10mA. Your average low quality phone charger delivers 1Amp.
Wire it in, forget about it.
skezza said:
Not trying to sound cruel here, but if you're connecting the long yellow wire directly to the battery, why would it drain more than connecting it to another 12V line? You're aware of how electricity works right (or maybe not)? Perhaps you should read up on current draw, direct current etc. Connecting the yellow wire direct to the battery will make no difference. My only suggestion is, if you go via battery rather than another subsystem, you add an extra fuse. Unfused wires are dangerous.
The yellow wire provides power to the clock and the memory. Nothing more. If you want the memory to be written down to NAND, you can set this in factory settings. Not a bad little hack for those who don't fancy wiring in the yellow wire, but then you might find the deep sleep function is erratic. The clock will still be lost as well, so you'll need that to update either via NTP or GPS. I believe the power consumption is around 10mA. Your average low quality phone charger delivers 1Amp.
Wire it in, forget about it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was talking to connect the yellow wire to another 12V car connection to avoid carrying the cable to the battery that I have in the trunk. My only doubt was the consumption of the unit if I had it permanently connected, but that doubt has already been resolved. I will look for a pernament 12V near my head unit to connect it.
Thanks!
txesterfield said:
I was talking to connect the yellow wire to another 12V car connection to avoid carrying the cable to the battery that I have in the trunk. My only doubt was the consumption of the unit if I had it permanently connected, but that doubt has already been resolved. I will look for a pernament 12V near my head unit to connect it.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use your central locking fuse, tap in there. Job done.
Hi, so back to the point from the thread title.
Theres reason to keep lower temperature on any device with CPU as you can really extend lifetime and avoid trootling .
Specciali for Px5 (any) android headunit which is build into car dashboard wheres can easily be 60°C in hot summer day.
theres not only CPU whats heating, theres also mosfet amlifier which can dissipate 100W of heat.
Another point to consider is that if you using animated or 3D background it uses CPU and GPU pretty much and keep it hot.
So if someone interested theres small "How to"
I found old 80mm 24V fan which works pretty ok (i put drop of oil on bearing)
1. mark fan side holes holes, dril the hole and than mark main fan hole on the top part of headunit:
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2. cut the main hole (i used angle grinder + hand grinder) than i clean scorings with instant adhesive glue mixed with sawdust.
3. To prevent corosion I paint a sheet with black spray.
4. Solder 2 cables to 3pin socket and on mainboard to switched 12V/GND. (speed signal from fan is not used)
I used 12V from 78M09 9V voltage regulator and GND from capacitor beside.
As I have 24V fan - it runs pretty quiet on 12V as it is only 50% speed. If you use 12V fan, you can connect it to output of 78M09 (9V) to low down a speed.
5. Done
What kind of difference to the temps has it made? Great job btw. Very clean install.
Top!!!!
wizzsb said:
Hi, so back to the point from the thread title.
Theres reason to keep lower temperature on any device with CPU as you can really extend lifetime and avoid trootling .
Specciali for Px5 (any) android headunit which is build into car dashboard wheres can easily be 60°C in hot summer day.
theres not only CPU whats heating, theres also mosfet amlifier which can dissipate 100W of heat.
Another point to consider is that if you using animated or 3D background it uses CPU and GPU pretty much and keep it hot.
So if someone interested theres small "How to"
I found old 80mm 24V fan which works pretty ok (i put drop of oil on bearing)
1. mark fan side holes holes, dril the hole and than mark main fan hole on the top part of headunit:
2. cut the main hole (i used angle grinder + hand grinder) than i clean scorings with instant adhesive glue mixed with sawdust.
3. To prevent corosion I paint a sheet with black spray.
4. Solder 2 cables to 3pin socket and on mainboard to switched 12V/GND. (speed signal from fan is not used)
I used 12V from 78M09 9V voltage regulator and GND from capacitor beside.
As I have 24V fan - it runs pretty quiet on 12V as it is only 50% speed. If you use 12V fan, you can connect it to output of 78M09 (9V) to low down a speed.
5. Done
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be curious on your results but in reality you are either just pulling in or pushing out hot air constantly. You have no source of cool air so I don't see this doing much of anything for you unless you are pulling in cooler air from somewhere. Heat rises and all you're going to do it saturate the back side of the dash with hot air to the point there is no more cooler air at which time the temp will probably equalize and be no better.
Dave
TT_Vert said:
I'd be curious on your results but in reality you are either just pulling in or pushing out hot air constantly. You have no source of cool air so I don't see this doing much of anything for you unless you are pulling in cooler air from somewhere. Heat rises and all you're going to do it saturate the back side of the dash with hot air to the point there is no more cooler air at which time the temp will probably equalize and be no better.
Dave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which app can I use for temperature measuring? ideally with graph possibility (so I can test playing video or so on...)
Theres ofcourse improvement if air inside is colder than CPU/Amplifier as theres much more heat transfer if air is mooving,
but if the temperature of air is nearly the same as CPU/Amp, than you are right, but for confirm that I can make a measurement with fan and without. Theres no more hot days in this period in Denmark, so reslts will be only for first case.
I don't know the best app to be honest. With that said if the air you are blowing over the cpu is same temp as air inside the unit it won't do much. I don't know how hot the air behind a dash can get in summer but my thought is if you have a fan pumping that hot air over the hot internals it will eventually saturate the under dash air and all air will be same temp (Or close to it) unless you have the air recycling under the dash which i don't think it really does much. I could be wrong though.
Dave
So after doing some before testing in my 70 deg. F garage I didn't see any need for a fan as I never got over 115F with volume at half. I did notice however my MTCB does seem to slow down on warmer days and In Illinois we have some 100deg days in summer so I decided to do something about it. I went a bit overkill as I was just using what I had. I have a 90mm fan that will be exhausting hot air. I intentionally put it over the CPU to try to draw air right from it. I had an old heatsink/fan from an old video card that was almost the perfect size. Drilled a few holes in it just to ensure I can unscrew the CPU at a later date if I ever need to as I'm gluing this thing to the CPU. Although I suppose if I'm taking it off it's a for a reason and I could just get a different heatsink/fan for the next one. I actually am using a 40MM 24V fan pulled from an old copier or something similar years ago powered by 12V and it is pushing more air than my 12V 40mm fan was. at same voltage so I went that route. TO avoid mix/matching fans I didn't put the 12V fan in as it doesn't move much air but I did drill a hole in case I decide to add one later PLUS I wanted to have enough area for intake air as that 90MM fan moved a TON of air. Probaby too much and it may be too loud but I'll address that when the time comes. Rather than feed from the harness I just probed the bottom of the board where the main plug is an and fed off of that on the PCU. Kapton taped and soldered so we should be all good there. The two fans draw 600mA max between the two but i'm not seeing that much current draw right now. Without further ado here is what I've got right now. Any opinions are welcomed. I plan to put plugs everywhere so I don't have to cut/unsolder if I ever disassemble this thing again.. I'm also going to put a few small heat sinks on a few of the other chips that get warm, particularly the two to the left of the CPU which may be the amp chips. Anyone have any idea which will get hottest during use? Thus far just those two to the right of the cpu get warm.
Dave
Dave
TT_Vert said:
So after doing some before testing in my 70 deg. F garage I didn't see any need for a fan as I never got over 115F with volume at half.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So which apk did you use for measuring of CPU temp?
or you using infra termometer?
using an IR thermometer. I've not found a program w/ accurate CPU temps. It jumps by 5C all the time up and down.
Dave
Cooling the PX5 CPU
Hi
I ordered this Aikenuo 25m x 20mm x 0.15mm Thermal Adhesive Tape,High performance Thermal Double Side Tapes Cooling Pad Apply to Heatsink
and that : StarTech.com 1U 60x10mm Socket 7/370 CPU Cooler Fan w/Copper Heatsink & TX3 -
Both are available worldwide on Amazon so try your local amazon. Price may differ though. Cheapest are UK and US
I put the tape under the copper heatsink and sticked the whole structure to the original PX5 motherboard heatsink.
Inside the beast:
I connected the fan's power to ground and accessory.
Temperature readings with CPUZ dropped a good 20° Celsius idling at 30° and rising to 60-65 at full load.
Idle :
Loaded with Youtube/Maps/Deezer and some other stuff :
Fix attachments please.
Can you explain where to connect fan on board?
blinkme2028 said:
Fix attachments please.
Can you explain where to connect fan on board?
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It is not connected on the mainboard.
As you will see from second picture, I have connected the fan to an extension cable that runs out of the back of the HU through one of the empty holes then wired the cable to the acc and ground.
It's back in the car now so cannot make picture.
Ah also, you only have one shot with the tape, it is super uber mega sticky and cures with heat so try to position the copper radiator first before final sticking and aim well as it will be extremely hard to reposition and/or remove unless you unscrew the cpu board to avoid breaking the whole thing !
And do not forget to remove the metal cpu fixture from the heatsink which means you will need to unscrew the fan to get this metal thing out and screw the fan back