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Hey people,
Massive regret if this has already been covered to the point of solving somewhere but i just can't seem to find a clear solution to my problem.
One of the main reasons i opted for the Archos 101IT was because of the usb storage possibilities and i am sadly let down by the lack of functionality. After searching over XDA forums, ArchosFans and a few other forums i have gathered alot of information about the usb ports and was even suggested a kernel that will let me extend the power supplied to the port (Currently only 100mAh i believe?)
My problem is im already on a different kernel and don't wish to trade my perm root and higher overclock just so i can use the ports as they should already work anyway. I have a 16gb and 8 gb sandisk flash drive that i would love to use but sadly it dosn't work. I also found a conversation (can't seem to find it again) where a list of successfull usb host adapter cables was created and so believing it i went ahead and bought one and it still dosn't work.
I have no doubt in my mind it's probably something i am doing wrong and if someone could slap me in the right direction i would be very greatful.
Again, sorry if my attempt at searching has failed but despite the countless conversations on this topic the only solutions that i have come across are completely changing my kernel and a cable that didn't work!
Why is it so difficult to use damn storage? that's what the usb is there for am i wrong?!
Thanks in advance =]
your post doesn't make that much sense - Archos 70 and below requires usb host cable - the 10 already has a full size usb host port and sufficient power to run flash drives
Yes it does, but as i said it only powers up to 100 mAh without the usb power kernel and i believe it's the mini usb that powers higher normally. It's my understanding that on the other posts i have read a host cable from the Mini usb port is supposed to give you the option of powering a flash drive as the mini usb offers a greater power supply.
I hope this makes sense now, im just reporting what i'v gatherd viewing other peoples issues and im confused to hell about any real/ideal solutions and also as to why the bloody thing can't just work as advertised.
Maybe if we can't get any meantime solutions people could start listing what's working for them? If anything at all? As i have seen reports of success with flash drives on both the 101 and 70 and also people saying they had it working at one time then it's never worked since. All threads seem to end in either "Sold my archos" Or "Sent back to archos and and they replaced it but now it's still not working" Also i can see archos have no apparent interest in the complaints that people have made.
Cheers
The 100mA limit is only on the A70. The A101's full-size host post puts out about 450mA, but alot of devices have an initial spike higher than that in the initial plug in, just to charge the capacitors and enter active mode. The problem with the A101 is that it shuts down current when it spikes like that, resetting the device, and requiring another start-up cycle. No solution I know of yet. I've managed to find low-power devices, you can also use an in-line power supply usb cable.
Hi msticninja, cheers for your reply.
Sorry for my complete lack of electronics but im understanding that the flash drive's im using require more then the 450 just to power up and then they would use less?
Does inline mean a mains powered usb? as i have a 2 tb mains powred HD that i havnt tested yet but if it worked it would be a temp solution for home, but i would love to be able to use my flash drives (or any flashd drives) when on the go. Could you suggest some of the flash drives that have worked for you under that power spike?
Thanks!
Nufan1121 said:
Hi msticninja, cheers for your reply.
Sorry for my complete lack of electronics but im understanding that the flash drive's im using require more then the 450 just to power up and then they would use less?
Does inline mean a mains powered usb? as i have a 2 tb mains powred HD that i havnt tested yet but if it worked it would be a temp solution for home, but i would love to be able to use my flash drives (or any flashd drives) when on the go. Could you suggest some of the flash drives that have worked for you under that power spike?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, after the power up they use less, but that initial spike causes the Archos to shut down the USB port.
Definitely try the mains powered HD just to test. Also, sometimes a really quick unplug and replug can help.
My Kingston Datatraveler G2 (16GB) works fine, and I have some generic 1GB sticks that work as well. It's kind of hit or miss, to be honest. If you have a local electronics store, they may have some that aren't packaged, so you could test them in-store.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kingston-16-G...660?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19c64a7c54
Is that the right one? I sadly live about 20 miles away from any decent modern electronic store so id rather just buy one, if there's anything i have learned about flash drives as a producer, you can never have enough and also they will always sell on ebay for near the original price.
Thanks again =]
Also, Just plugged an old microsoft mouse into the large usb port, it lights up for a second then turns off with no real connection made.
Tried the same mouse in the smaller usb port with a host cable and nothing happens, could be the cable though.
Nufan1121 said:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kingston-16-G...660?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19c64a7c54
Is that the right one? I sadly live about 20 miles away from any decent modern electronic store so id rather just buy one, if there's anything i have learned about flash drives as a producer, you can never have enough and also they will always sell on ebay for near the original price.
Thanks again =]
Also, Just plugged an old microsoft mouse into the large usb port, it lights up for a second then turns off with no real connection made.
Tried the same mouse in the smaller usb port with a host cable and nothing happens, could be the cable though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think the mini-usb operates in host mode on the A101, only on the A70. As for the mouse, I have had better luck with wireless mice. I think the wired ones, older "red" optical ones in particular, use more power than I expected.
I think I told you the wrong USB drive though. I'm just plugging it in to double check and it's not working. Let me look around and figure out what I was using.
Haha yeh it was a wired oiptical one, i assume the wireless ones work better as most are powered by battery and im guessing the usb reciever only needs a small ammount of power. Is that the correct usb on the ebay link though? If so i will buy it asap as im desperate for a working solution.
Thanks =]
Looking through logcat though, I don't see a power error. I think I formatted this [email protected] with NTFS, and it can't mount it. Give me a couple of minutes to test this out.
Yep, that's the problem. I just turned on NTFS support in UrukConfig and it mounted just fine. That link on eBay should work fine for you as long as you don't use NTFS without urukdroid.
Ok cool, is it having trouble recognising it now? Both mine are Fat32 i believe in order to switch between my mac and windows computers, let me know if it still works when you can =]
It's fine with NTFS enabled in UrukConfig. Fat32 should work by default. BTW, you can enable NTFS support on Mac pretty easily. If you have files bigger than 4GB, it's essential.
Haha i havnt had to cross that issue yet as i mostly work with sound samples around 2mb or under, but i will definately be correcting that soon. So is this the correct model before i purchase it? im excited now that you have re confirmed it! =]
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kingston-16-G...660?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19c64a7c54
Thanks for the info!
Yup, that's the one. It's a tiny bit big, but it's very fast.
Haha mate, size isnt an issue at all, aslong as the damn thing works im going to be a happy bunny. All i have been missing since buying this thing is the extra storage. My sd card is currently running whole OS as it was needed for 'perm root' and it also has 259 swapfile so that's the 8gb gone. If this usb storage works it means i'll finally be able to free up the enitre internal storage i've been clogging up with music and movie for some more apps.
Wish me luck =p thanks again! =]
That's why I like to run Android from the Internal Storage, so I can remove the Sdcard without shutting the tablet down.
Good luck!!
As soon as a decent root comes along where i can overclock to 1.2ghz on internal storage id be more then happy to run on internal, sadly the only one i know is archangels and it only works when in a wifi area =/ unless im mistaken then id gladly eat my words! =]
Nufan1121 said:
As soon as a decent root comes along where i can overclock to 1.2ghz on internal storage id be more then happy to run on internal, sadly the only one i know is archangels and it only works when in a wifi area =/ unless im mistaken then id gladly eat my words! =]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Technically you could, but it's a bit of an involved process. You do need the SDE installed though. Actually, I wonder if anyone's tried ardatdat's kernel recently with Uruk. It hasn't worked for a while, but there's been multiple beta updates since the last time I tried it.
That would be very tempting, im on sde anyways. Just a question, whats the 1 watt speaker about in ur sig? Is that a hack?
Nufan1121 said:
That would be very tempting, im on sde anyways. Just a question, whats the 1 watt speaker about in ur sig? Is that a hack?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My speakers went out, because they're horribly overdriven, like most people's. I replaced them with 1 Watt Kobitone speakers that have a higher sensitivity, so it's louder at lower volume settings, and can go to a very high max volume without damaging the speakers. It's a simple replacement, but you have to open the case and solder in the new speakers.
Just wondering has anyone tried/thought about the feasibility of modding a Palm Pre touchstone charger for use in an atrix? would it be extremely difficult to do so?
thantos said:
Just wondering has anyone tried/thought about the feasibility of modding a Palm Pre touchstone charger for use in an atrix? would it be extremely difficult to do so?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As per post on engadget it's not so complicated
thantos said:
Just wondering has anyone tried/thought about the feasibility of modding a Palm Pre touchstone charger for use in an atrix? would it be extremely difficult to do so?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
xboxexpert posted a tutorial for this on a nook color here . Looks easy enough and the same method should apply.
Hmmm.. interesting.. only wished someone would have tried previously to know if it'd fit inside the battery cover...
After looking at the iFixIt teardown for the Atrix I'm not thinking this would be a straight forward process.
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola-Atrix-4G-Teardown/4964/2
Boards aren't my strong point but it looks as though the +/- may be under the usb connector housing.
mtnecho said:
After looking at the iFixIt teardown for the Atrix I'm not thinking this would be a straight forward process.
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola-Atrix-4G-Teardown/4964/2
Boards aren't my strong point but it looks as though the +/- may be under the usb connector housing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Need a better shot, but it looks like you can still hit the resistor between the two ground posts. Going to need some thin wire though.
I am curious to know if anyone will attempt this.
vmiku914 said:
I am curious to know if anyone will attempt this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't think I'm going to sacrifice my Atrix to the hardware mod gods. Enjoying it too much and not terribly interested in dropping the money to replace it if it doesn't work out.
I don't know if I will be doing the mod, but these are some of the tips I would follow if i decided to. If I do it I'll post pictures..
1st:
Be sure to use the Palm Pixi's back cover with the smaller circuit board - this one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
2nd:
You might wanna consider buying this case since its thicker and you can dig a little bit if the circuit doesn't fit the standard battery door.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
3rd:
In many phones the metal that keeps the memory card in place is the ground (-).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
4th:
I'm sure there's an easy (+) pin you can solder to - so far i haven't found one, but many people cut a usb plug to fit inside the usb female socket and route the cables somehow (Watch the first video below). You have to remove the cut usb in order to use it with computer, also its quite ugly. The best, but very hard way is to solder the (+) wire directly to where the usb socket is soldered to the phone's circuit board .This I'll leave to a jewelry craftsman, I know, with lots of experience. MAKE SHURE YOU KNOW WHICH PIN IS THE POSITIVE!!! For polarity of the palm pixi's circuit boat refer to the first picture.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know its a bit difficult, but... that's the way it is.
Useful links:
Galaxy S Mod.
First HD2 Mod.
Same mod but with extended battery (Not good looking)
You have probably seen this.
A lot of people forget to do this.
YOU ARE WELCOME!!!
I bought some of the pixi components and will try this out without the requirement of soldering.. I've been thinking.. is there any way to use the leads from the battery as the connection point as opposed to soldering directly to the port? Or is there a voltage regulator that I'd have to go through first...
First, you should try if it's really charging Atrix (batt's percentage going up), because it needs more current than standart phone.
But i'm thinking of modyfing my own, but with less invasive method
I wouldn't take apart my atrix again. I may have killed my first one getting my screen out. Those ribbon cables are a pain, and well, you might not need to remove the flex cables (the black flat ones), but if you do, you are most times pulling up the temp sensor too, and that thing never goes back!!
Just make sure you are good at what you do
Why not solder the the inductive piece to a chunk of mini usb cable first ? Completely non invasive and you'll be able to prove it works before you solder to the phone.
That was what I was considering. Unfortunate that the variances for the attrix are so tight.
mobileweasel said:
Why not solder the the inductive piece to a chunk of mini usb cable first ? Completely non invasive and you'll be able to prove it works before you solder to the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you're going to do that, you may as well just buy one that's already made.
I meant to do that as proof of concept. If it charger, take it apart and hide it under the battery cover.
Does anyone tried the Palm inductive charger with Atrix? Does it really work?
I just got mine in - will try it soon.
Let me ask you guys this...
1) Whats the point of all this?
Really? What is the point? The cool form factor? Bragging rights? It seems like
a big inconvenience for me, especially when you will need to take your charger somewhere.
Anyways, seems like a lot of work for just the convenience of not plugging in a mini usb cable.
Anyways, good luck and I hope you guys have fun
Perhaps you are right about it.
But whats the point in buying a lapdock or media dock when you can just get a laptop? What's the point in rooting or unlocking your phone? You could easily just leave it stock and most of the functions will work just fine.
Call it a hobby or challenge or a convenience or whatever. I made this thread merely asking for technical help. Not snide commentary that is counter productive.
Ok guys and girls, this thread is for hardware hacks. The reason for creating this thread is initially to address two scenarios.
Bricked device
HBOOT/Recovery Mismatch
And the goal is to produce two things.
JTAG pinouts for the flyer
Build a low cost emergency charger that can be used to recharge a completely flat flyer battery in order to recover from the unbootable state.
A bootstrap battery pack to be used as an alternative to #2, giving enough power to flash the correct recovery and charge normally.
I will be working on item 2 in the two lists first ( and number 3 on the second list) , because it's both a more common thing to encounter and because I need equipment that I don't currently have for number 1.
Did you search the DEV section before creating this thread? I swore I seen a couple of threads talking about this.
Another nice thread Globatron, do you think you could give a short description about what a Jtag/ort jtag unit is for people that aren't familiar? Too avoid those repetitive questions..
Sent from my HTC Flyer.
Sure, I'll do that.
Here's a visual tear-down of the Flyer from TechRepublic for those that have never opened it up.
http://www.techrepublic.com/photos/...3?seq=2&tag=content;siu-container#photo-frame
Man. This is really not like tearing a Laptop or a PC. After such tear up i don´t think i could get it all back together. All parts ant connections are so small, i don´t even see what part to connect to JTAG pins. And yes the screwdriver a shape of a star
Ok, so for the charger design there are two basic options and one extended option:
USB powered
Mains brick powered
Both, mains power taking priority if both are connected
Can I get a feeling of what people would like to see in terms of supply? I will not be using the flyer charger as a power source due to the problem of obtaining the custom connector to mount on a pcb but I can do a wide-rage input to cover ~ 5V - 28V.
The booster battery method is simpler. I'll have a prototype done as soon as I get a delivery of the appropriate connectors.
A couple more software procedures and then it's back to hardware.
Hubless USB OTG is added to the list.
Happy New Dragons Year Everyone!
I made some posts in riff box forums. I've visited jtag repair services and no one could help me. And i found that jtagers have no interest of flyer
Be more specific
globatron said:
Hubless USB OTG is added to the list.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you mean by that??
OTG without using a powered hub.
Elfuente said:
What do you mean by that??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He means that he is adding it (eliminating need for powered hub) to his list of HW mods to be looked at.
globatron said:
OTG without using a powered hub.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I want that.!!!!!!! Where is the 'How do'
PLEASE!!!!!!!
There is no how to, you can't do it. That's why he is investigating. The Flyer as designed supplies less than 80ma of power to the micro USB port, not even enough for most small thumb drives.
Introduction
When it comes to Android TV sticks, I'm a bit of a seasoned veteran. I still own a Uhost1 and was the first person in the UK to own a Uhost2 (in fact, the fourth in the entire world) thanks to some connections I had to Smallart, the company behind that device. I really do believe that these little devices have the potential to be something a tad special, if done right of course. That brings me onto this little device:
The Transpeed MK809V, also known as the CX939. Let's be honest, the numbering/naming is completely irrelevant nowadays, because there are different versions of the same named device, which all contain different chipsets and functionality. I was able to get this one in the 11/11 AliExpress sale for just £15 (http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/7084183665.html?orderId=70864234952489)
Specification
CPU: Quad-Core RK3128
Android: 4.4.2 (yet the ROM says 4.4.4?)
GPU: Embedded 3D GPU Mali 400, High frequency 500Mhz, Support OpenGL ES 1.1/2.0
RAM: 1GB
NAND: 8GB
Photos
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In The Box
Transpeed Android TV Stick
2A USB Wall Charger, UK Plug (yes, that's right a UK plug)
Female to Male HDMI Extension Cable
Micro USB Cable
OTG USB Cable
Instruction Manual
There's probably £5 worth of cables and bits and bobs in the box, bringing the actual cost of the dongle down to about £10-£11. Crazy.
First Impressions
The device is about the size of a Chromecast v1. It doesn't weigh much at all, I'd have no problem sticking this directly into a HDMI port (but I'll use the extension just to be safe). There is a red slide bar on top of the device with absolutely no explanation of what it actually does. The instructions are borderline unreadable, so they're not much use. On the bottom of the device is a sort of vent and what looks like a pin hole in one of the corners. There is a full size USB port, and two mini USB Ports respectively. It is not clear exactly which is the power source. There is a pin hole next to one of the sockets on the side, so I've assumed this is most likely the power source.
The device boots pretty quick actually, for a cheap device. The interface is slick and smooth, buttery as they say. It's running some sort of Lollipop launcher (not sure if it's Now Launcher), which feels smooth but the app switcher takes me back a year or two (horizontal slide thing). It comes with Kodi and Show Box pre-installed along with a few other apps and Google Play Services. The firmware is very AOSP with almost nothing in the way of customized launchers etc.
There are a few little issues I've noticed, the AOSP keyboard seems to sometimes double play the sound when you click a key. It has a really tough time coping with my IR remote, I think this is to do with the Rockchip issue I speak about below. Still, the plan is to install Droidmote.
Connectivity
The one thing that often lets these little devices down, is the Wi-Fi, but so far, the Wi-Fi on this has been very very solid. I've not done a speed test yet, but I will when I get chance.
I was also pleasantly surprised to see Bluetooth with a fully functioning stack which includes file transfer, I tried this and it works well.
Disassembly
Taking this device apart is probably as easy as you could hope for. There are 8 clips spread evenly around the device. Pop the top ones nearest the HDMI port (either side) first and then work your way down and it falls apart. These clips do break pretty easy so I imagine a few of these will be held together with tape soon enough.
BE CAREFUL, the WiFi antenna is soldered directly onto the motherboard and is stuck onto the casing.
So interestingly, the red slide bar does absolutely nothing. It's not connected to anything, and it's certainly not doing anything, which is a shame considering what you'll read about the pin hole later.
Rockchip board, very similar to the FireFly FirePrime.
Soldering is a tad iffy on the Wi-Fi antenna.
Underside of the board.
Rear vent case.
Scratch on a chip, plus the poxy recovery button is also damaged slightly. Read why further down.
Disassembly also reveals the pin hole on the back leads to absolutely nothing, which might be misleading for some. Do not stick your pin in there as you'll simply scratch your circuit board.
Rooting
Rooting this device took all of about 2 minutes. Although SuperSu detects root, it is unable to install its own root binaries. However, KingRoot (http://www.kingroot.net) has absolutely no problem and roots it in under 2 minutes. I will probably replace the KingRoot binaries with SuperSu binaries, but for the moment, this will do.
Recovery/Flashing
WARNING: Please read the Problems/Issues section regarding the pin hole.
To access the recovery (which from the factory is just a standard Android 'no command' recovery) press pin hole while plugging in power from wall socket, keep hold until you see Android Recovery on your TV/Monitor.
To access RK flashing mode, you MUST install the drivers first using the DriverAssist tool. I will include all of this stuff as attachments to this post. Once the drivers are installed, press the pin while plugging into your computer, Rockchip class devices should appear. You can now flash using BatchTool or AndroidTool.
Problems/Issues
- Build quality. While the device itself runs nicely and works okay, the build quality leaves a lot to be desired in my opinion. I suppose you pay for what you get. The case doesn't fit quite as well as other TV sticks, but I'm willing to turn a blind eye.
- Pin hole. What I'm not willing to turn a blind eye to is this disasterous implementation. On the Uhost (and Uhost2), Smallart simply put a small case button above the little SMD switch, easy as pie to use. This device simply has a pin hole on the case, and you're required to put a pin through. The problem is the circuit board doesn't sit perfectly inside the case (most of these cases are universal anyway), therefore you'll often find yourself poking around inside this little device desperately trying to find the switch. Luckily, I don't think there's anything you can really damage, however looking at my photos above, you can see where I actually scratched the top of a chip and also chipped the switch as well. I now only operate that switch after disassembling the device, although at a push, you could use a small screwdriver designed for mobile phones as these are usually small enough to get through the hole but bigger than a pin. Why didn't they just use that slide? It would have been so easy to implement a switch.
- Droidmote. Rockchip have this thing about messing up the input to Android, this means Droidmote doesn't really work properly without some changes. However, the issue is that changing the lib file in my case caused a soft brick. It's possible to fix this in external keyboard helper, but will need to do some investigation on this.
- USB. The USB implementation is a bit iffy for some reason. It has no problem with my IR remote and also had no issues with a USB keyboard, however I plugged a USB mouse in and actually soft bricked the device. I had to flash the firmware to fix this.
Firmware/ROMs
Stock Firmware -
4.4.2 (labelled as 4.4.4) - https://mega.nz/#!C45iTKKQ!bQaow8xVpjKb1nYZbIe_mQx1R8B574Ikt1kZA9J44VU
Mods
TODO
Development
It's rare that any kind of development can take off for these devices, but this little thing shares the same chip and hardware as a very popular dev board called the Firefly FirePrime (http://wiki.t-firefly.com/index.php/FirePrime/en). Not only does this board share almost identical hardware, they have uploaded the source for a 5.1 Lollipop build. Now, I've compiled this but I'm yet to flash it yet. I am wary about going ahead and flashing before I do some research into exactly what is going to happen. However I may flash the kernel.img, resource.img and system.img as a test to see if I can get anything to happen. I imagine to begin with, it'll be completely broken, but there's no reason that with some effort I can't make this work.
Status:
CWM - In Progress
Lollipop - Alpha (http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=64253545&postcount=4)
Working: Audio, Video (needs further testing), USB, SD Card, Reboot
Broken: WiFi, Bluetooth, HDMI Mode, HDMI Scaling, Sleep, Shutdown, Others?
CyanogenMod(?) - In Progress
Hopefully others with this device can talk about it and share their experiences.
I actually used one of these with a lot of pleasure for quite some time before I moved to a full sized box. I'll be watching this thread carefully as I still have the stick lying around and have been wondering whether I should do something with it. So much potential shouldnt go wasted
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Glad to see I'm not the only one using this cheery little device.
Incredibly, after just three attempts and a few changes to the code (nothing major), I've been able to get it to successfully boot lollipop. Has to be the fastest port I've ever done. It's pretty alpha, wifi is broken, Bluetooth is broken and there's no way to scale the screen or change the hdmi mode, so it's stuck in 720p mode right now. Still, it's all proof I need that this device can handle lollipop. Those features can be sorted pretty easily. The interface is seriously slick. Very fast and smooth.
I tried to upload some photos but the xda app isn't working for me lol.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using XDA Free mobile app
Photos of lollipop 5.1.1 working. Are there any Android tv sticks out there that actually run lollipop or is this the first?
It's certainly the first that cost less than £15
Sent from my GT-I9505 using XDA Free mobile app
Wow! This looks really promising! I just bought the same one as well. Will probably take a month before I receive it though.
horizophon said:
Wow! This looks really promising! I just bought the same one as well. Will probably take a month before I receive it though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine didn't take too long to come. About 2 weeks I think. It's a decent enough device right out the box, Kodi is fully loaded with goodies and Show Box works well, but I think with all the potential it has, it would be a waste not to at least explore some sort of Lollipop ROM. We all know that the manufacturer is unlikely to put out another ROM anyway. They tend to get a single ROM bug free then quit while they're ahead.
Interestingly, my USB Mouse now doesn't soft brick the device. Clearly something is up with the stock firmware and that mouse. Anyway, I'm going to spend today investing the WiFi and how to get it working.
Good luck!
Building a new image, hopefully the Wifi and bluetooth should work with this image. That's half the fun of course. One of the biggest issues I'm having is it appears to be impossible to flash a singlee partition image to this device, otherwise you soft brick it. Pain in the arse.
Some more work today, let's see if I can get this WiFi working.
Here we go, first boot of the new Lollipop build built by me with the correct connectivity chipsets etc. Will WiFi be working, or will it be broken still ?
Edit:
In fact, will it even boot
Yep, it boots. WiFi now causes reboot lol
2nd Edit:
Pretty obvious looking at logcat why it's not working.... Android still thinks it's using the Firefly AP6212 Wi-Fi. Need to work out why that is.
Still working on the WiFi, might not be as easy as I first thought to get this WiFi fixed. No SDK whatsoever for it, so I'm using an SDK for a similar chipset that is publicly available. I have a .ko file which should work but it won't insmod for some reason.
The funs of building from other peoples code. The .mk files are a complete mess. Still, looks like I'm slowly getting there.
Sounds like a challenge, good luck!
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Finally got it to build using this RealTek SDK from t'interweb. Did require some changes though and I had to find a few libraries that seemingly aren't really used anymore, plus a few hacks thrown in there to make those libs work, so I really don't know what's going to happen here. Currently on the Android boot screen. It might boot, it might crash, it might boot-loop, I really don't know.
At an educated guess, I Imagine it'll boot but I fully expect it to fail when switching on WiFi.
Edit: Boots OK. Few BT force closes, might have to freeze BT for the moment. WiFi still dead. Let's try get some logs shall we
Quick update, feel as though I've hit a bit of a brick wall with this WiFi implementation. Can't get it it to insmod the modules from 4.4 (no surprise) but don't have the source to build newer 5.1.1 modules. The source I do have doesn't seem to work, so either I am missing something or there's a configuration issue. I will continue over the next few days but can see this being a real ballache. I may investigate whether we can use a USB wifi, at least temporarily while I work out a way in which we can use the inbuilt Wi-Fi. With so few people owning this hardware, that also makes it difficult as it's a one man project
On a side note though, I have been able to get it to run Ubuntu lol! It's a trimmed down version but it runs surprisingly nicely. Audio is broken, so is WiFi but USB Ethernet works well and was browsing and even installed Kodi onto it.
Who'da thunk it ?
Received mine today! Took me three minutes to brick it. :good: Couldn't stop myself from trying ART. Now i can't make the drivers work with W10. In fact it doesn't even show up as an unknown device... :silly: Will try with Ubuntu in the morning.
horizophon said:
Received mine today! Took me three minutes to brick it. :good: Couldn't stop myself from trying ART. Now i can't make the drivers work with W10. In fact it doesn't even show up as an unknown device... :silly: Will try with Ubuntu in the morning.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It won't be hard bricked.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using XDA Free mobile app
To access RK flashing mode, you MUST install the drivers first using the DriverAssist tool. I will include all of this stuff as attachments to this post. Once the drivers are installed, press the pin while plugging into your computer, Rockchip class devices should appear. You can now flash using BatchTool or AndroidTool.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And where ?
@skezza Do you have any update? I have this TV stick, but it has a fake 1080p (upscalled from 720p). Do you have another kernel for this tv stick or maybe a kernel sources ? (I have found about 4 firmwares for this stick, but all of the has a fake 1080p)
Anyone notice video playback in Kodi stutters badly. (Mkv and Mp4 ..especially 1080p)
Sometimes after few mins, but shows up immediately if, along the time line bar, jump back and fort, once or twice.
Easily seen at movie end credits.
Tried few different firmwares all have same issue.
To add to my previous post, my Rk3128 board looks this.
http://www.cnx-software.com/2015/12...ith-512mb-ram-8gb-storage-sell-for-15-and-up/
FirePrime Lollipop works fine, but no WiFi.
Surprisingly snappy for a 512MB DDR board.
hi,
i am a proud g5 user who has now some troubles with his lg.
almost all 3 seconds my g5 discovers a usb wire conection and dismisses the messages after aproximate 1 second (sometimes later, and sometimes before) and this without a wire.
it happens after my mom sat on it and the usb port is now not as tight than before. i got a loose connection if i move the wire back, but that was it.
it wont charge corectly and get many disconects like the usb conection but inverted.
i opened the bottom module but the usb port is fine. there is some gloßy clear film on the pcb and the smal usb contacts. it havent a break, so i think its fine.
i was about to buy the hifi module but i want to ask bevore if the original module is the problem or if its something with the motherboard?
or if i can repair it by my self (reflashing ofw, the new bottom module etc)
if someone got a nice answer, please, answer asap o.o
thank you guys
and sorry about my crappy english, even in my mother language i am bad :X
cyrok said:
hi,
i am a proud g5 user who has now some troubles with his lg.
almost all 3 seconds my g5 discovers a usb wire conection and dismisses the messages after aproximate 1 second (sometimes later, and sometimes before) and this without a wire.
it happens after my mom sat on it and the usb port is now not as tight than before. i got a loose connection if i move the wire back, but that was it.
it wont charge corectly and get many disconects like the usb conection but inverted.
i opened the bottom module but the usb port is fine. there is some gloßy clear film on the pcb and the smal usb contacts. it havent a break, so i think its fine.
i was about to buy the hifi module but i want to ask bevore if the original module is the problem or if its something with the motherboard?
or if i can repair it by my self (reflashing ofw, the new bottom module etc)
if someone got a nice answer, please, answer asap o.o
thank you guys
and sorry about my crappy english, even in my mother language i am bad :X
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same issue on my sprint g5 i did the same cleaned the port took the chin apart everything was fine only thing i can productivly add that i have noticed is the hotter the device the worse it was for me.
Replace the bottom chin. Find the module that's correct to your device's model
ChristopherXI said:
Replace the bottom chin. Find the module that's correct to your device's model
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine done it with 2 different chins
TheMadScientist said:
Mine done it with 2 different chins
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well. The only possible problem now is the bottom PCB piece that make contact to the module. If it's cracked/bent then you have to replace the whole motherboard.
ChristopherXI said:
Well. The only possible problem now is the bottom PCB piece that make contact to the module. If it's cracked/bent then you have to replace the whole motherboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol I dont the one that was doing it is hard bricked from obviously failed test.
I checked it pretty good with a jewelers loop I thought it might be a crack from being put on and off so much but didnt see anything
I think it was in the firmware on mine once I downgraded to an older firmware it didnt do it
but i bricked it a day later it happend all the time and everyday though at least 5 times and hour
ChristopherXI said:
Replace the bottom chin. Find the module that's correct to your device's model
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for your replys, so you think its only the botton piece? i was about to change it with the hifi module. if i buy it its posible that the error disapears?
is it posible that the bottom pcb can shortcut (or so) so that the phone discharges faster?
it even wont fastcharg at all. even if the charge icon apears the phone doesnt load correctly...
forget to mention its the h850 (if i remember correctly)
cyrok said:
thanks for your replys, so you think its only the botton piece? i was about to change it with the hifi module. if i buy it its posible that the error disapears?
is it posible that the bottom pcb can shortcut (or so) so that the phone discharges faster?
it even wont fastcharg at all. even if the charge icon apears the phone doesnt load correctly...
forget to mention its the h850 (if i remember correctly)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You said that your mom sat on the phone. Like. On a sofa? Or a hard surface?
If the place your mom sat on the phone is soft like a bed or a sofa then probably the pressure has ben put on the end of the cable and the port itself. The type-c port has mini solders that connect to the pcb that breaks. So just try the Hifi plus module and test it out. If it's fast charging again then Replace the module only.
If the Hifi plus produce the same results (not fast charging/not charging correctly).If you are out of warranty coverage then you could try and take the phone apart and look for the PCB pieces at the bottom that connects to the module. If it's cracked/curved/bent then your motherboard has to be replaced. Hope that clears up for ya.
ChristopherXI said:
You said that your mom sat on the phone. Like. On a sofa? Or a hard surface?
If the place your mom sat on the phone is soft like a bed or a sofa then probably the pressure has ben put on the end of the cable and the port itself. The type-c port has mini solders that connect to the pcb that breaks. So just try the Hifi plus module and test it out. If it's fast charging again then Replace the module only.
If the Hifi plus produce the same results (not fast charging/not charging correctly).If you are out of warranty coverage then you could try and take the phone apart and look for the PCB pieces at the bottom that connects to the module. If it's cracked/curved/bent then your motherboard has to be replaced. Hope that clears up for ya.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the clear up ^^
sadly i buyed it for 180€ and dont know if its worth it to put much more money in it. the motherboard conectors are all fine, the usb-port isnt tight as before now, so i thought the same and riped the bottom module apart. the conector looks just fine to me, thats why i wonder and why i am not sure if a repair is worth it. I thought to solder it anew but its to fine. the pcb is coated with some gloßy stuff, and i think even if i get a hotair solderstation i cant repair it.
yes my mom sat on it while it was on my couch, she even didnt feel that it was there.
the hifi module costs 75€ and the back cover isnt all that nice (many damages in the alluminium) so i want to replace that to if its worth.
i saw today that it doesnt detects usb from pc, it detects itself(?). it says that the otg is used and want to get charged, so it opens the menu to change the usb options. for me it looks like a shortcut but i cant explain how this can happen if its only the type c port. is type c that easy to destroy? easyer than microusb? (i ask because its my first type c device)
thanks for your held and advice
cyrok said:
Thanks for the clear up ^^
sadly i buyed it for 180€ and dont know if its worth it to put much more money in it. the motherboard conectors are all fine, the usb-port isnt tight as before now, so i thought the same and riped the bottom module apart. the conector looks just fine to me, thats why i wonder and why i am not sure if a repair is worth it. I thought to solder it anew but its to fine. the pcb is coated with some gloßy stuff, and i think even if i get a hotair solderstation i cant repair it.
yes my mom sat on it while it was on my couch, she even didnt feel that it was there.
the hifi module costs 75€ and the back cover isnt all that nice (many damages in the alluminium) so i want to replace that to if its worth.
i saw today that it doesnt detects usb from pc, it detects itself(?). it says that the otg is used and want to get charged, so it opens the menu to change the usb options. for me it looks like a shortcut but i cant explain how this can happen if its only the type c port. is type c that easy to destroy? easyer than microusb? (i ask because its my first type c device)
thanks for your held and advice
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just go to a store and try a different module.
And i dont recommend the Hifi plus module.
Sure. The headphone jack is down at the bottom and the quality is better if you have the equipment and GIGANTIC music files.
You are using a H850. Just unlock your bootloader and get Viper4android. Save your money, like buying 2 modules for spares if your mother decides to sit on the phone again
Pretty sure the type c is better for the future. I mean. If a micro usb device falls into the same situation as yours then i don't think that the port might survive or replaceable as easy as the G5
ChristopherXI said:
Just go to a store and try a different module.
And i dont recommend the Hifi plus module.
Sure. The headphone jack is down at the bottom and the quality is better if you have the equipment and GIGANTIC music files.
You are using a H850. Just unlock your bootloader and get Viper4android. Save your money, like buying 2 modules for spares if your mother decides to sit on the phone again
Pretty sure the type c is better for the future. I mean. If a micro usb device falls into the same situation as yours then i don't think that the port might survive or replaceable as easy as the G5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you were right, it was the module. my mom buyed a new one on ebay.
and i dont want to unlock it and cfw it, the ofw is fine for me ^^ its like lg thougt about almost every thing, my z5 feels like trash when i operate it
oh, and i think type-c cables areent that easy to brake, against the micro usb i think the port will faster be damaged than the cable, unlike micro usb, and i think this could be a problem for me D:
oh and do you know if it transmit data in 3.0, 3.1 or only 2.0? i got to many diferent answeres
cyrok said:
you were right, it was the module. my mom buyed a new one on ebay.
and i dont want to unlock it and cfw it, the ofw is fine for me ^^ its like lg thougt about almost every thing, my z5 feels like trash when i operate it
oh, and i think type-c cables areent that easy to brake, against the micro usb i think the port will faster be damaged than the cable, unlike micro usb, and i think this could be a problem for me D:
oh and do you know if it transmit data in 3.0, 3.1 or only 2.0? i got to many diferent answeres
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The G5 is the same as the HTC 10
I the type c port on both of them are fully COMPLIANT to the Type-C standards.
But the Voltage on the charging line overrides the Type-C standards of 5 volts, but HTC and LG modifies it so it can go up above 5 volts
Other wise comparing the transfer rate between the my HTC one m8 and my LG G5, the G5 is definitely faster
ChristopherXI said:
The G5 is the same as the HTC 10
I the type c port on both of them are fully COMPLIANT to the Type-C standards.
But the Voltage on the charging line overrides the Type-C standards of 5 volts, but HTC and LG modifies it so it can go up above 5 volts
Other wise comparing the transfer rate between the my HTC one m8 and my LG G5, the G5 is definitely faster
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Jeah, my g5 is feeling faster, but i can be wrong.
What i mean is, if it uses the 3.0/3.1 standart, or uses the port the same like the huawei p10 (it uses 2.0)
I know that androids are way slower than an regular usb stick, but there is a cpu betwen the memory, also no direct writing.
That the one m8 slower is is strange, and that keeps my questioning.
(Urgh sry for typos im reLy not the best in english and autocorrect annoys too)
EDIT:
compliant means fully asigned pins, am i right?
cyrok said:
Jeah, my g5 is feeling faster, but i can be wrong.
What i mean is, if it uses the 3.0/3.1 standart, or uses the port the same like the huawei p10 (it uses 2.0)
I know that androids are way slower than an regular usb stick, but there is a cpu betwen the memory, also no direct writing.
That the one m8 slower is is strange, and that keeps my questioning.
(Urgh sry for typos im reLy not the best in english and autocorrect annoys too)
EDIT:
compliant means fully asigned pins, am i right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Compliant means it matches the Type-c standards