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Hi,
I'v noticed some potential problems with my camera, and I have a few other questions too to help make me get the best out of the camera. This is all using 2.1 ROM and SE camera app.
1.When my camera autofocuses, sometimes it emits a light 'clicking' noise from the inside. I'm not sure if this is only me, and I want to make sure it's not an oddity.
And about the autofocus, it's terrible sometimes. The autofocus bracket turns red quite a lot, meaning it's not got a lock on focus and sometimes it shoots with the red bracket meaning it's not focused (this happens on touch to shoot mode). Sometimes, it says its focused on something when it isn't. This usually happens when close up, like 15-20 cm away from the object.
2.Image stabilization- is it good or bad? I've noticed camera shots are a bit more grainy with image stabilization on and it takes a bit of time to process the shots too. Does image stabilization make any noticable impact on quality of photos?
3. Metering:Center, spot vs average. Which is the best?
4.How exactly does Macro mode work? I've not seen any noticable difference of pictures using it and normal mode.
5.Is there a way to remove the jpeg compression, or at least reduce it? I think photos could be MUCH better if sony hadn't implemented that.
So those are my questions. Thanks for any help on shedding light to the issue(s)
1. I noticed that click on K750 also, and I think that autofocusing mechanism. And yeah x10 has terrible autofocus, especcialy on macros
2. Image stabilisation is used mostly in night/low light images and it compesates hands shaking when holding camera. It does not do wonders, but it is much easier to take night photo with stabilisation on. Also when its on, pictures are not sharp as they are without stabiliastion.
3. generaly:
average - for landscapes and well lit shots
centre - portaits
spot - macros
4. you cannont autofocus on macro distance(10cm or so) if macro or auto mode isnt turned on
5. only way to reduce JPEG compression is to use vignette aplication with super fine quality (check Camera 360 app also)
one major tip, play with EV always and youll get much better results
cheers mate
hibiskus said:
1. I noticed that click on K750 also, and I think that autofocusing mechanism. And yeah x10 has terrible autofocus, especcialy on macros
2. Image stabilisation is used mostly in night/low light images and it compesates hands shaking when holding camera. It does not do wonders, but it is much easier to take night photo with stabilisation on. Also when its on, pictures are not sharp as they are without stabiliastion.
3. generaly:
average - for landscapes and well lit shots
centre - portaits
spot - macros
4. you cannont autofocus on macro distance(10cm or so) if macro or auto mode isnt turned on
5. only way to reduce JPEG compression is to use vignette aplication with super fine quality (check Camera 360 app also)
one major tip, play with EV always and youll get much better results
cheers mate
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Thanks a lot, your post was informative . Cheers
5.Is there a way to remove the jpeg compression, or at least reduce it? I think photos could be MUCH better if sony hadn't implemented that.
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Click to collapse
5. only way to reduce JPEG compression is to use vignette aplication with super fine quality (check Camera 360 app also)
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Click to collapse
28spawn's modded stock camera for 2.1 has somewhat less compressed jpegs and some other improvements. It's in the Themes & Apps section.
I have had a couple of autofocus camera phones now and they have all done the clicking noise during the focusing, so I am guessing that is completely normal. Image stabilization does make the pictures turn out a lot worse, try to avoid using that. And as hibiskus said, the EV controls make a world of difference! Check out this link http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com...xposure-value/ It has some useful information on the EV controls.
Since the SGSII has a pretty good camera I was wondering if it is possible to manually lock exposure, shutter and ISO settings?
With a full HD resolution I would like to get some nice filming done but without the camera automatically adjusting settings. It ruins the look.
Maybe there is already software out there which I havent found?
Cheers!
Sent from Desktop PC.
The main thing is seems that you'll want to do is to manually adjust the white balance rather than keeping that on Auto.
Exposure lock: There's no exposure lock. However, you can manually adjust the exposure value. So if you want to shoot something bright, you can lower it. If you want to shoot something dark, you can increase it.
Shutter speed. There's no way to manually adjust the shutter speed. (So you can't capture something like a waterfall with slow shutter speed to get the motion effect.) Like most non-DSLR cams, the shutter speed is automatically adjusted depending on lighting conditions, flash, and ISO.
ISO. Yes, ISO can be manually adjusted.
The cam is great and can probably replace most people's dedicated point&shoot cams. But it's definitely not as versatile as even a budget DSLR cam.
The camera changes exposure wile you are shooting. That my problem is.
When I walk out of my flat with my camera switched on I don't want to see the automatic exposure correction. Dunno how to describe but have you never seen the effect when you pan from a window to your wall? It must be possible to lock these settings to eliminate the automatic correction.
What I like to see as an option is the autofocus, I got lot's of refocussing in low light conditions when focus was actually perfect
Also would be really awesome if you could set the exposure time to image starry nights, I mean, the device is called Galaxy is it not
Unfortuanely I am not a developer so I cannot contribute to these options and can only hope some cool devguy with the knowhow has the same wishes as me
Is there anyway to do this with our phone? I know there is a setting for it in the camera but it doesn't really create the blur effect of things in the background
Play with the camera because there are ways to make it focus on specific items and "ignore" the outside ones
Put a magnifying lens in front of the lens to permit closer focusing.
get a digital cam to take real photos, especially macro shots. What you are trying to do requires a more advanced camera (re: blurry background with focused foreground)
nyydynasty said:
get a digital cam to take real photos, especially macro shots. What you are trying to do requires a more advanced camera (re: blurry background with focused foreground)
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Good point there - Even with a magnifying lens to focus more closely, the tinysensor in the phone's camera is going to result in very deep depth of field. Usually this is good for macro shooting where DOF is often razor thin, unless you're going for that "background out of focus" effect.
In video auto exposure setting, which option is the best?
I thought spot metering was more accurate and efficient than center weighted one.
Third option I've never tried.
Screenshot attached
First, let me say I'm a camera dummy. This is the first phone I have that I try to take pics with. That said, I can't seem to get indoor shots right with this camera. Pics always too bright and too cool.
My room is well lit with florescent warm lights. But pics come out looking like I'm in a hospital room. Bright, cool. I'm in a hotel lounge right now. Plenty of light, not dim, but warm. Pics come out too bright, too cool.
I've tried using all the temp settings in the stock app. I've tried gcam 6, 7, hypercam. HDR off, on, enhanced. AI, no AI. Doesn't matter.
For reference, with a borrowed iPhone 10, default settings, point and shoot, pics come out looking like what my eyes see in same room. Okay, that's a much more expensive phone, obviously, but seeing posted pics I know this phone can take good pictures.
I'd appreciate any pointers. Thanks in advance
Stock camera HDR definitely produces "colder" pics comparing to gcam. Among gcam modes I've tried the most liked was Parrot's Astrophoto V12. Also I don't like elevated ISO of pics produced with stock camera HDR. Can you try Parrot's gcam with AWB mode set to IMX586 in Photo Advanced Settings?
qwertysmerty said:
Stock camera HDR definitely produces "colder" pics comparing to gcam. Among gcam modes I've tried the most liked was Parrot's Astrophoto V12. Also I don't like elevated ISO of pics produced with stock camera HDR. Can you try Parrot's gcam with AWB mode set to IMX586 in Photo Advanced Settings?
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Thanks. I'll try it when I get home and have decent connectivity.
qwertysmerty said:
. Can you try Parrot's gcam with AWB mode set to IMX586 in Photo Advanced Settings?
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I downloaded the gcam from the link and made setting change as suggested. Unfortunately it did not make a big difference from the stock camera temp-wise. To make sure it's the camera and not the screen, I looked at the same photos on my OLED TV set to warm 2 (closest to D65), it's still skews blue.
Manually reducing exposure helps with brightness, but not so much the temp. HDR is kind of a mixed bag.
Maybe I just have wrong expectations of what a camera should be able to do lol
From my experience stock camera gets exposure and white balance pretty good (AI turned on), very close to what I see with a naked eye. Pretty much all Gcam apps take very cool and desaturated pictures on default settings. It needs quite a lot of tinkering to get them right, and even then stock camera produces more natural results. Stock HDR is a joke (at least in situations where I tried it). Gcam clearly wins in very low light, otherwise I use stock app exclusively.
I would advise to try manual WB settings in stock camera, but you already did that with no improvement (which sounds a bit strange to be honest), so not sure what else to suggest.
About the exposure - what Auto Exposure settings do you have? Mine is center weighted and works good. If there is a face in the photo, it gets priority and the rest of the photo might be under/overexposed, but that's the point of this feature.
_mysiak_ said:
From my experience stock camera gets exposure and white balance pretty good (AI turned on), very close to what I see with a naked eye. Pretty much all Gcam apps take very cool and desaturated pictures on default settings. It needs quite a lot of tinkering to get them right, and even then stock camera produces more natural results. Stock HDR is a joke (at least in situations where I tried it). Gcam clearly wins in very low light, otherwise I use stock app exclusively.
I would advise to try manual WB settings in stock camera, but you already did that with no improvement (which sounds a bit strange to be honest), so not sure what else to suggest.
About the exposure - what Auto Exposure settings do you have? Mine is center weighted and works good. If there is a face in the photo, it gets priority and the rest of the photo might be under/overexposed, but that's the point of this feature.
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How do I do manual WB in the stock cam? AE is center weighted (it's the default). Thanks
barth2 said:
How do I do manual WB in the stock cam? AE is center weighted (it's the default). Thanks
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You need to switch to pro mode.
Btw.manual white balance works only in certain gcam versions, more often than not it doesn't do anything. The most easy way is to try some "crazy" WB and tap to focus. If the screen doesn't change the color tint, you need to use different gcam version (or maybe change some low level gcam settings, but not sure which ones).
Edit: in Hypercam, enabling "focus tracking" breaks manual white balance settings. Without this feature white balance can be changed.