[FIX] Bootloop on MiTV Box 4k/S/2018 - Android Stick & Console AMLogic based Computers

Try Method 2 only if you're sure your Remote has no problem and is connected properly. First is trying to determine the course of action. If you just bricked it. Then there's nothing you can do unless you take it to the care center or if you had adb enabled then you can force it into fast boot look after connecting it to your pc. That will be in another post. For now troubleshooting it is our concern.
So you have tried to use the TV Box and you can't force it to go into recovery mode neither have you had any luck with the usb stick update.
Method 1:
The problem is Mi TV Box won't boot and will infinitely boot loop unless the paired remote is connected. So most likely the boot loop is caused as the remote and tv box isn't communicating. Your remote may either be damaged or need a change of batteries or may have been unpaired/disconnected after the update.
So grab a USB mouse or USB Keyboard. Try mouse click and there will be a blank screen. Wait for 5-10 minutes. It takes time to load or is simply slower when disconnected from the remote.
Some keyboards don't work. But if they do, keep pressing either Esc or Enter till the Bootloop ends and brings you to a blank screen. Be patient and use a mouse/keyboard arrow keys to navigate to settings and Remote & Accessories. Then select Xiaomi RC and click on Unpair. The Battery % will be shown if it was connected properly. So then re-pair the remote and then restart. You can restart by holding the power button till the power menu pops up. That's it and that's all. Be careful since both Mi TV and Mi TV Boxes will not make it past the boot screen unless the paired or stock remote is connected properly. You can't find a totally working replacement/spare remote since the remote and the tv box are one unit and if either is damaged or has a manufacturing defect, it can't be easily replaced. As both have sort of link. So suppose you buy two Mi TV 4K Boxes and use both at the same time. The remotes will pair up and be forever linked to one particular at the time of set up. You can't randomly change it after that. Exceptions are always there but this is the case for the most part. Or so I believe it to be.
Method 2: If the above method didn't fix it. The issue is software related. You may need to perform a hard reset using either the recovery or get a keyboard with the same or equivalent combination of keys you'll use on the remote. Considering the remote not working or unable to boot into recovery using the remote. If possible get two people to do the recovery sequence on the remote. Since the remote is good quality and sensitivity for button press. Then load up the stable or latest beta update available onto a pen drive. Make sure that the update package is renamed to update.zip. Before installing Wipe/Reset All Data and it'll ask for confirmation. Confirm it and then proceed to install update.zip. The Pen Drive used may also result in success or failure. So use a reliable know good USB 3.0/2.0 stick. SanDisk gave me issues. I had to re-install thrice to get it to work properly. Also don't use sizes above 16 GB. Upto 32 GB is supported. And it may support external harddisk drives but the format is to be kept in mind. Any pendrive larger than 32 GB comes out of the box with either NTFS or exFAT File System Format. So check that before you put the update on it.

Related

[Solved] S4 with Netgear Push2TV PTV3000

I had quite the time getting my Netgear Push2tv adapter working and thought I might share what I learned in case anyone else has issues with theirs. My adapter out of the box was on version 1.0.13 and did not work! The S4 would see it but when I would connect it did nothing but continue to connect until I stopped it. I flashed firmware after firmware to the adapter and power cycled the adapter, my tv, and my phone until it finally worked!! Here is what I did, step by step, in detail, to get it working. (trimmed a bit )
First you must upgrade your Netgear Push2tv to the latest firmware. Here is a link to the official firmware and instructions on how to upgrade.
http://support.netgear.com/product/PTV3000
1) Download the latest firmware version (v2.2.16 as I'm writing this)
2) Unzip it and grab the PTV3000_V2.2.16.sbin file.
3) Hold the side button on you netgear adapter for 7 seconds, it will go to upgrade mode.
4) On your pc go to your wireless connections and connect to the push2tv adapter.
5) On your pc open a browser and type http://192.168.3.1 in the url bar.
6) Upload the unzipped file from step 2, and update it.
I am not sure if the following is needed or not but this worked for me after hours of trial and error
7) After the adapter's firmware was updated and rebooted(automatically), I turned the tv off and on again.
8) I was a few updates back on the rom I was running (hyperdrive v5.7, verizon) so I did a complete wipe and flashed the newest version (v7) with the stock kernel. Once settled into the new rom everything was good to go!!! A full wipe and rom flash may not be needed but that's what I did.
I do know that right after you update the firmware on the adapter you will have to reboot your phone at the very least as it seems to hold the old connection to the netgear adapter. If rebooting your phone doesn't work try rebooting to recovery and wiping cache and dalvik cache. If that doesn't work then try suggest a full data wipe.
I have been through multiple firmwares for the adapter, was getting audio but no video, connect then disconnect, not connecting at all, black screens, hdcp errors you name it. After doing exactly what I stated it is now working and mirroring the screen rather well. There is an acceptable minimal lag time between touches on the phone to the mirroring screen. Any type of action/shooter/racing/ game won't perform well but puzzle or rpg games, videos, web browsing are pretty nice !!!
screen mirroring has been disabled - how smart is the PTV3000?
Hello
I have just bought this gadget and the first thing I did was update the firmware to v2.2.16, the phones see's the PTV and connects but after a short while I get the message "screen mirroring has been disabled" and the phone turns screen mirroring off.
My phone is a GS4 i9505 and I have tried multiple rom's and get the same message everytime, so I have to conclude that its not the phone or what ever ROM I happen to be running.
The first test I did was to the PTV3000 without it being connected to a TV/Display - I get the same message about Screen mirroring being disabled.
The second test I did was on a spare commputer monitor with a DVI port, so used a dvi--to-hdmi adapter. But Im not seeing anything being displayed on the screen, but ive seen this before with this screen as I dont think it supports hdmi properly.
Is the PTV3000 smart enough that if it can't display it will disconnect from the phone..? if that is the case why is the phone disabling screen mirroring rather than just saying it cant display of what ever..?
thanks
b.

Crane 3g N708 Chinese 2 DIN Car Audio WinCE6+Android 4.x.x

Hi All,
I have purchased a 2 DIN Chinese Car Audio System from Chinavision which runs on two OS's. WinCE and Android 4.0.4. The WINCE Partition apparently runs hardware for Bluetooth Handsfree calling etc, USB port for external USB memory/storage (media), 1 x micro SD crd marked on the box as GPS (to store the GPS maps due to internal memory size limitations (4Gb standard with 8Gb upgrade by manufacturer), DTV, analogue radio, 1 x USB that when hubbed will connect to ext drives usb memory sticks while also being read and utilised for wifi dongle/3g dongle (controlled by android OS). The WinCE UI is uite poor with clumsy controls and limited user interface actions.
The Android OS is a little better however seems quite unstable. often hanging and freezing, loss of data from storage, app remnants following uninstalling apps. This OS controls, USB media access, 1 x SC card, 3G and Wifi (though not phone use on 3g as it always freezes and required a hard power down (disconnection of batters/power).
For one or two posts I can see there are others here that have such systems and serge/Gibroid is mentions however I don't seem to be able to get contact..
My questions/goals are to replace the systems android firmware with a smoother running, more stable build of ROM whilst keeping the original functionality (at least) and maybe (if possible) to add the functionality that is missing within the android OS.. such as Bluetooth access, phone access for calls etc..
Also, if at all possible, to upgrade/replace the WinCE OS with a more user friendly version, with a better UI, and the functionality of the original if not better. Basically opening this system to its full potential.
Now, I have to say I am a noob and am not knowledgeable nor experienced at this sort of thing (I have flashed a few phones etc) so would need to know
1) where to get the firmwares
2) where to get the required installation software
3) how to install via sd card input/external storage input as the unit seems not to be able to be connected to a PC
4) how to do a complete system image backup and how to restore should it all go horribly wrong
and
5) step by step instructions on how to do it.. or if a user out there is local and can do it I'd come to you and get it done that way.. (and compensate for your time and expertise)
The system/car unit is liveable as it is (just) but it has the hardware in it that means it is capable of so much more.
Anyone out there that can help??
Cheers
Cheeks :silly:
I also have a N708 based stereo
cheekyleebo said:
Hi All,
I have purchased a 2 DIN Chinese Car Audio System from Chinavision which runs on two OS's. WinCE and Android 4.0.4. The WINCE Partition apparently runs hardware for Bluetooth Handsfree calling etc, USB port for external USB memory/storage (media), 1 x micro SD crd marked on the box as GPS (to store the GPS maps due to internal memory size limitations (4Gb standard with 8Gb upgrade by manufacturer), DTV, analogue radio, 1 x USB that when hubbed will connect to ext drives usb memory sticks while also being read and utilised for wifi dongle/3g dongle (controlled by android OS). The WinCE UI is uite poor with clumsy controls and limited user interface actions.
The Android OS is a little better however seems quite unstable. often hanging and freezing, loss of data from storage, app remnants following uninstalling apps. This OS controls, USB media access, 1 x SC card, 3G and Wifi (though not phone use on 3g as it always freezes and required a hard power down (disconnection of batters/power).
For one or two posts I can see there are others here that have such systems and serge/Gibroid is mentions however I don't seem to be able to get contact..
My questions/goals are to replace the systems android firmware with a smoother running, more stable build of ROM whilst keeping the original functionality (at least) and maybe (if possible) to add the functionality that is missing within the android OS.. such as Bluetooth access, phone access for calls etc..
Also, if at all possible, to upgrade/replace the WinCE OS with a more user friendly version, with a better UI, and the functionality of the original if not better. Basically opening this system to its full potential.
Now, I have to say I am a noob and am not knowledgeable nor experienced at this sort of thing (I have flashed a few phones etc) so would need to know
1) where to get the firmwares
2) where to get the required installation software
3) how to install via sd card input/external storage input as the unit seems not to be able to be connected to a PC
4) how to do a complete system image backup and how to restore should it all go horribly wrong
and
5) step by step instructions on how to do it.. or if a user out there is local and can do it I'd come to you and get it done that way.. (and compensate for your time and expertise)
The system/car unit is liveable as it is (just) but it has the hardware in it that means it is capable of so much more.
Anyone out there that can help??
Cheers
Cheeks :silly:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
My N708 also has the same issues, unfortunately I have not been able to use none of serg090909 images to improve my android system.
I have noticed that my system works better if I don't turn it off and on using the button on my stereo, I almost always reconnects fine if i just turn the car's key.
I have also discovered that the volume between the two systems is very different, if you play music, audio-books or use the Gps you will notice a huge difference in volume between the two systems... I'm using a volume booster to soften the difference.
I too am searching for something that can improve the WinCe side... it sucks... My bluetooth phone app is just useless! (I'm not able to synchronize any contacts).
You can go here (http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2607632) to find out how to make an image of your system (at least of its android side).
Cheers
Norvati
Hi
I have the same system.
I am currently talking with the seller to try and sort the unfortunate bug I keep getting. The android part stops accepting touch screen input. Happens when I initially boot the system by switching the car on and will only clear if I power it down for 25 seconds then power up. The android side then reboots.
You can reinstall-initialize the android side by removing your key, holding the reset button down, inserting key and starting car while holding down the reset button, hold for 10 seconds, then release and turn on the stereo. When you go into the GPS/android side after that, you will be asked to calibrate the screen again and the android startup wizard begins.
I managed to get the Gibroid system running, so ask me any questions you have about doing that. It gives a much nicer, larger storage space android section, but I still suffer from the android side not accepting screen input when i start the car 50% of the time.
I agree the bluetooth functionality in the WINCE part is borderline criminal with no sorting of phone book. Would love to be able to tinker with it.
Gibroid install help
naivri said:
Hi
I have the same system.
I am currently talking with the seller to try and sort the unfortunate bug I keep getting. The android part stops accepting touch screen input. Happens when I initially boot the system by switching the car on and will only clear if I power it down for 25 seconds then power up. The android side then reboots.
You can reinstall-initialize the android side by removing your key, holding the reset button down, inserting key and starting car while holding down the reset button, hold for 10 seconds, then release and turn on the stereo. When you go into the GPS/android side after that, you will be asked to calibrate the screen again and the android startup wizard begins.
I managed to get the Gibroid system running, so ask me any questions you have about doing that. It gives a much nicer, larger storage space android section, but I still suffer from the android side not accepting screen input when i start the car 50% of the time.
I agree the bluetooth functionality in the WINCE part is borderline criminal with no sorting of phone book. Would love to be able to tinker with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
You say you were able to get the gibroid working on your system can you explain to me how and what you did? I use all the tools that are recommended apart from thelivesuit, It simply doesn't accept any of the gibroid img files available here and on 4PDA that I was able to find. The touch screen on my unit just binks (black on black). I also have tried maybe 5 different sd cards.
Thanks in advance for your help.
P.S. At the moment my system doesn't even work it just gets stuck on the android (word) screen.
Cheers
Norvati
Hi
I to would like to hear how you got gibroid to boot, as I to only gets black screen trying to boot.
Have tried with 4 different sd cards, 2 different sdcard to pc adapters without luck !
Regards Bo
same here
xdabca said:
Hi
I to would like to hear how you got gibroid to boot, as I to only gets black screen trying to boot.
Have tried with 4 different sd cards, 2 different sdcard to pc adapters without luck !
Regards Bo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine wont connect wifi. Says nothing about the hardware but is got the option to do it and the usb too. I have all the exact problems. Wish I knew what to do...
i am having a few issues too.
i tried serge images but it was very unstable and SO didnt run every times and when it did it its very laggy, screen blinks and others issuses.
on the native system its usualy to ask me for calibrate screen and restart all the SO to factory stage.
but now its stuck on android green logo screen. i already try to reset it but still on the same. can anyone help please?
arantes87 said:
i am having a few issues too.
i tried serge images but it was very unstable and SO didnt run every times and when it did it its very laggy, screen blinks and others issuses.
on the native system its usualy to ask me for calibrate screen and restart all the SO to factory stage.
but now its stuck on android green logo screen. i already try to reset it but still on the same. can anyone help please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have same problem stuck on Android loading screen how to hard rest with recovery mode ?
what is the combination for go to in recovery ?

Deleted System Files, Have Flashing Favorites Screen or Stuck in Orange Logo Loop

Well, I wrote a very thorough post explaining my situation, and when I tried to post it I was informed I was trying to register for my forum account instead. *facepalm* So with that thirty minutes wasted, let's try this again.
I have a Kindle Fire HDX 7. Software 4.5.2. I rooted it with an exploit, deleted some Metrics system files, and then after rebooting came up to a broken "desktop." The main Favorites window flashes from white to gray at me, there are no icons in it. I can't run any apps. I can get to the Settings menu, enable ADB, MTP, etc., but I can't turn on Wi-Fi or do updates. I did a Factory Reset, but that just erased all my content. If I reboot from this situation, I get stuck at the orange animated logo screen forever. If I hold the Volume + button and choose Factory Default from there, I can get back to the flashing Favorites desktop window, but still can't do anything just as before.
I have installed the Android SDK for Windows, installed the adb_usb.ini files, and the device is not recognized by Windows at all. It charges, but that's it. I tried using Ubuntu and SoupKit. They also don't see the Kindle as being there. No matter how many times I reboot the Kindle, all the SoupKit commands just hang at "Waiting for Device".
I made a Factory Cable. When I plug it in, the Kindle doesn't turn on. Holding down the power button does nothing. If I plug back in a regular USB, it turns right on. If I plug the Factory Cable in at the Flashing favorites screen, I hear the "plugged in" chime and the charging icon appears on the battery, but nothing else happens. If I try to reboot from there, with the Factory Cable still in, it shuts down but won't restart. I am open to the possibility I messed up the cable, but continuity seems good with my meter from both ends of the cable and from the solder joints to the micro-USB end, etc.
Has anyone seen the flashing desktop behavior? What should I be doing to try to get my Kindle recognized, so I can push the stock firmware back to it to fix this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I made a foolish mistake and I can't seem to correct it myself, so I'm hoping someone else out there has the answer I'm overlooking. Thank you for your time.
Make sure you have the Kindle Fire ADB drivers installed.
EncryptedCurse said:
Make sure you have the (link text clipped due to restrictions on <10 posters) installed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had already installed the Google USB driver using the SDK Manager, and also modified adb_usb.ini and so forth, to no effect. I tried the instructions at the above link, though, since that Add-On site was something new. It appears some things have changed since that article was written, though, since the only thing available from the Add-On site from Amazon now is just the Kindle USB driver. I installed it, but Windows still doesn't recognize the Kindle. I rebooted the computer and the Kindle just to be sure.
To be clear, when I say it doesn't recognize it, I mean it doesn't even appear in Device Manager as an unknown device. No matter which computer, USB port, or cable I use, Windows 7 and Ubuntu simply do not see a device as there. The Kindle chimes and shows the charging icon, but Windows doesn't see anything as being plugged in.
From what I'm reading, it appears the factory cable I made is useless with the Fire HDX line.
I notice that the SuperSU app is still installed for what it's worth. I can't run anything, so it's kind of hopeless. I can't seem to find the original exploit that I used, but I basically just tapped a button that said "Gimme Root" and then I had super user access. Dangerous, dangerous super user access.
I'm not opposed to opening the Kindle up and tinkering with things, if there's any chance that will help correct this problem.
Valence1981 said:
I made a Factory Cable. When I plug it in, the Kindle doesn't turn on. Holding down the power button does nothing. If I plug back in a regular USB, it turns right on. If I plug the Factory Cable in at the Flashing favorites screen, I hear the "plugged in" chime and the charging icon appears on the battery, but nothing else happens. If I try to reboot from there, with the Factory Cable still in, it shuts down but won't restart. I am open to the possibility I messed up the cable, but continuity seems good with my meter from both ends of the cable and from the solder joints to the micro-USB end, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
"Factory cables" (sometimes called fastboot cable) are useless on all HDX models. Stick with a standard, high quality USB cable. I realize this seems counter intuitive but Amazon has done their best to make the latest generation of devices inaccessible to those looking to leverage the hardware or simply recover and non-functioning device.
Your issue with 'seeing the device' is likely due to Windows drivers. If the suggestion from @EncryptedCurse doesn't work suggest deleting all related entries from device manager when the device is tethered, reboot and then reconnect. Windows should install the correct drivers assuming you downloaded the Kindle specific ones in advance. There are shortcuts to this procedure (eg: a reboot really isn't necessary) if you know your way around Windows.
Davey126 said:
"Factory cables" (sometimes called fastboot cable) are useless on all HDX models. Stick with a standard, high quality USB cable. I realize this seems counter intuitive but Amazon has done their best to make the latest generation of devices inaccessible to those looking to leverage the hardware or simply recover and non-functioning device.
Your issue with 'seeing the device' is likely due to Windows drivers. If the suggestion from @EncryptedCurse doesn't work suggest deleting all related entries from device manager when the device is tethered, reboot and then reconnect. Windows should install the correct drivers assuming you downloaded the Kindle specific ones in advance. There are shortcuts to this procedure (eg: a reboot really isn't necessary) if you know your way around Windows.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I plugged the Kindle in (I'm at the Settings menu on it, since staying at the launcher/home/favorites screen just threatens to give me epilepsy with its constant flashing), I removed all the USB host controllers and root hubs, then scanned for hardware changes to reinstall them. The Kindle is not found, as a recognized device or an unknown one. As I said, when I boot from a thumb drive into Ubuntu, it doesn't find it either. When I run adb devices, it says no device is found. I have heard of people getting it to take ADB commands anyway, despite the not found error, by just repeatedly rebooting the Kindle, but it hasn't worked for me.
Valence1981 said:
I plugged the Kindle in (I'm at the Settings menu on it, since staying at the launcher/home/favorites screen just threatens to give me epilepsy with its constant flashing), I removed all the USB host controllers and root hubs, then scanned for hardware changes to reinstall them. The Kindle is not found, as a recognized device or an unknown one. As I said, when I boot from a thumb drive into Ubuntu, it doesn't find it either. When I run adb devices, it says no device is found. I have heard of people getting it to take ADB commands anyway, despite the not found error, by just repeatedly rebooting the Kindle, but it hasn't worked for me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My bad - I overlooked some key details in your original post even though clearly stated. If you are not seeing the the device from any host (and you have certainly done the things I would have suggested) there is little you can do to recover via standard methods. A couple longshot suggestions:
- change cables. I know you tried a homebuilt cable but grab a couple standard cables just to rule out a bad wire; crappy usb cables are more common than people think
- check for a bent/missing pin in the micro-usb port; possible you aren't making a data connection (for others benefit, data and charge use different pins)
I realize both the above are highly unlikely given the sequence of events that lead up to your current problem. Running out of ideas ...
I doubt this will help, but one long shot on Windows is try to use the HDX toolkit to install the adv drivers. It won't do anything else with this build, but if this is a driver issue, it could possibly fix it. Also, if you can try revoking adb permissions if you can get to that window and try a different usb port.
These are all last ditch efforts though.
I tried the HDXToolkit driver install. It seemed promising, but it still doesn't see the Kindle. Checking the connector to see if the data pins were damaged was a good idea, but unfortunately they look unmangled. I am using a regular USB cable at this point, by the way.
I can't disable ADB mode on the Kindle itself. I can go to the Developer menu and try to disable it, but it just kicks me back to Settings and the option stays set to On when I go back to it. I can switch between MTP and CTP for whatever that's worth.
I appreciate the optimism. I'm quite upset with myself for doing this to my Kindle, as I really was getting a lot of use out of it. I can't help but be a little mad at Amazon, too, for making it so hard to fix this.
Oh, I was also going to mention that when I go to the stock recovery window with the option between reboot and factory restore, at the bottom under the Kindle logo it says "No Command" not sure what the significance is of that. I've seen where some people get a lot of error messages in that area.
Valence1981 said:
I tried the HDXToolkit driver install. It seemed promising, but it still doesn't see the Kindle. Checking the connector to see if the data pins were damaged was a good idea, but unfortunately they look unmangled. I am using a regular USB cable at this point, by the way.
I can't disable ADB mode on the Kindle itself. I can go to the Developer menu and try to disable it, but it just kicks me back to Settings and the option stays set to On when I go back to it. I can switch between MTP and CTP for whatever that's worth.
I appreciate the optimism. I'm quite upset with myself for doing this to my Kindle, as I really was getting a lot of use out of it. I can't help but be a little mad at Amazon, too, for making it so hard to fix this.
Oh, I was also going to mention that when I go to the stock recovery window with the option between reboot and factory restore, at the bottom under the Kindle logo it says "No Command" not sure what the significance is of that. I've seen where some people get a lot of error messages in that area.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some very left-field ideas:
- try enabling bluetooth. Obviously if you can get that working there is a way to move files to/from device which might provide additional repair/recovery options.
- there is a rumor that long pressing power (40+ sec) performs some type of 'hard reset' on the device. Never see it work but worth a try.
If the device is still within warranty reach out to Amazon. They are pretty good about providing replacements (say it died during an update) although it will likely be a refurb. Who knows, might get one with a low enough fimware level to unlock. That opens a entirely new set of options.
It would appear that the HDX can't use Bluetooth for file transfers, only for connecting peripherals like keyboards and speakers. I'm going to try it anyway.
I have done the long power button hold down, but it doesn't seem to do anything.
I believe I should be in warranty. I got my Kindle for Christmas, so it's only about 6 months old. I'd rather not have to lie to customer service, though. So I'm still prodding at this trying to find a solution. If I could just get WiFi to work, so I could download a firmware update, I think that might help, but of course everytime I put in my network information and tell it to save it, it kicks me back to the Settings window and I get no connection.
The 40 second Hard Reset never worked in my case, although My Kindle didn't even boot up after my stupidity.
Valence1981 said:
It would appear that the HDX can't use Bluetooth for file transfers, only for connecting peripherals like keyboards and speakers. I'm going to try it anyway.
I have done the long power button hold down, but it doesn't seem to do anything.
I believe I should be in warranty. I got my Kindle for Christmas, so it's only about 6 months old. I'd rather not have to lie to customer service, though. So I'm still prodding at this trying to find a solution. If I could just get WiFi to work, so I could download a firmware update, I think that might help, but of course everytime I put in my network information and tell it to save it, it kicks me back to the Settings window and I get no connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Understand the ethical concern. Stating it died during an update is technically correct provided you don't indicate who was doing the updating. If asked if the device is rooted then you should come clean (which could impact Amazon's decision whether to replace). I have a great relationship with Amazon and believe honesty will ultimately get you further than deception.
So it doesn't appear there is anything else I can do about this. The Kindle isn't recognized by any computer I have, using Windows XP or 7, or using Ubuntu. I read that XP might be able to see it if I disabled ADB, but it's permanently turned on and if I try to turn it off it kicks me back to the Settings menu without actually changing the setting. Since no computer can see it, I don't think there is anything I can do to recover it. Unless someone figures out a way to flash the ROM by taking the thing apart and doing it manually, which I don't think is going to happen anytime soon. I can't believe I ruined my Kindle. Looks like all that's left is contacting support and seeing if they'll help me with a replacement.
Actually, one other thing. If I have to send the old one back, won't they notice that SuperSU is installed and realize what I did?
Valence1981 said:
So it doesn't appear there is anything else I can do about this. The Kindle isn't recognized by any computer I have, using Windows XP or 7, or using Ubuntu. I read that XP might be able to see it if I disabled ADB, but it's permanently turned on and if I try to turn it off it kicks me back to the Settings menu without actually changing the setting. Since no computer can see it, I don't think there is anything I can do to recover it. Unless someone figures out a way to flash the ROM by taking the thing apart and doing it manually, which I don't think is going to happen anytime soon. I can't believe I ruined my Kindle. Looks like all that's left is contacting support and seeing if they'll help me with a replacement.
Actually, one other thing. If I have to send the old one back, won't they notice that SuperSU is installed and realize what I did?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for your troubles. Amazon is pretty easy going - at least in my region. If the device is in warranty and you simply describe the symptoms without going into too much detail you should get a replacement. I don't believe they inspect devices beyond looking for obvious physical damage. The device will likely get 'reprogrammed' and be sold as a refurb. It makes little economic sense to have a tech inspect returned devices unless they are looking for something specific or a pattern of failures. Good luck.
Any have file APQ8074.hex and 8074_msimage.mbn for unbrick QHUSB?

Screen android phone broken, no USB debugging on, mouse working no visual

Hi guys,
My screen recently died. Before fixing it at a specialized shop, I want to retrieve the data from the phone. Sadly the phone is pattern-locked and until I unlock it I can't access the data when I connect it to my PC. The screen is essentially dead. The image is almost totally black except for small layer in left top corner and the touch sensor is unresponsive, but other than that the phone works and receives notifications and so on.
USB Debugging mode isn't active on the phone and thus I can't replicate the screen of the phone on my PC through software alone, when I connect it via micro-USB. I also didn't think of this problem in advance and I'm not registered on Sony's FindMyMobile or any similar apps.
I tried using a HDMI-MHL adapter and I confirmed that the phone is indeed working because I'm able to get the phone screen's image on my TV. The problem is I can't actually interact with the phone because as I said earlier the touch sensor is not working.
The HDMI-MHL adapter I've used also seems to have a micro-USB port but that seems to work for power only. If I connect a USB-OTG cable on it and connect a USB mouse to it I get image but no mouse. If I connect the USB-OTG and the mouse, alone, I get a mouse cursor but I can't see what I'm doing (phone vibrates as I 'try' and draw the unlock-pattern blindly).
So, Sony Xperia Z3 Compact screen is dead, I wanna connect my Xperia to my TV via HDMI AND use a mouse at the same time to control my phone. Is this possible_
I also thought of another option... go to recovery mode and flash a zip that removes lock. I thought of trying step by step (switch keyboard and TV al the time just to get at point where I can find zip file and flash it). Unfortunately in recovery mode the phone does not allow to stream to TV. It only works when phone is after SIM lock.
Two additions: by removing and re-installing ADB on my laptop my phone is unauthorized. Only a matter of clicking on yes/allow on phone but that's not possible and TWRP 3.1.1-0 is installed.
Anyone any clue? I know I ask a lot but I'm searching the internetz for 2 days now and I'm devistated.
THNX a great bunch!!!
ciao
Valentijm
PS Copy/paste a part of the text from a guy from the internet who had exactly the same problem as I did but his thread ended a few months ago without result.
Just 30 minutes after my post I magically had all the dots correct and that blind!!! So turned on USB debugging and got rid of lock pattern. It was a nice three days of my life Guess there was no solution than getting lucky like I did or screen replacement and getting all your data removed.
ciao

Pixel 2 non-functioning screen, options for using ADB?

Greetings fellow techno-wizards! Got a big problem that I'm hoping you can help me with.
Long story short, my trusty Pixel 2 had one too many drops, now the screen won't turn on and won't respond to touch. The logic board is operating, and I haven't rebooted since then, so I can unlock with the fingerprint sensor.
I plan on getting an Pixel 5 when it releases, and have an LTE Tablet to limp along until then.
My biggest problem is authenticators on my phone that I may or maynot have the backup QR code for, as well as many other things I'd like to get off the phone before I retire it.
I have the following things at my disposal:
Pixel 2, with USB Debugging turned on, and recently trusted the PC. No screen, no touchscreen.
WearOS watch paired to phone (can get notifications and texts)
Bluetooth Mouse
Wired mouse with USB to USB C adapter
Chromecast
Win PC with Scrcpy installed, already tried to use it to show the screen on the PC, I'm guessing its been too long and I have to press a notification to trust the PC.
The Goal:
To cast the screen to a chromecast and pair a bluetooth mouse, and/or get Scrcpy working by accepting the dialog that I can't see. This would allow me to use the migrate tool to the new phone I will eventually get.
I tried long ago to use a USB C to HDMI adapter, that doesn't work. Google wants you to use a Chromecast for such things (Thanks a ton Google )
The thing I need to figure out next is how to use ADB to force the phone to start casting to a Chromecast, or to remotely accept the dialog. The wired mouse with adapter should work to control the phone instead of the touchscreen, but without any video out, I'm clicking blindly. The microphones are working, but I've never tried to command the assistant to start casting before.
Can anyone suggest the next step I should try?
Just had a thought, there are accessibility features for blind people that would let them use the screen without seeing it. Is there any ADB command to enable these features? If I plug in a keyboard, is there a keystroke combination to turn them on?
TheGeek007 said:
Just had a thought, there are accessibility features for blind people that would let them use the screen without seeing it. Is there any ADB command to enable these features? If I plug in a keyboard, is there a keystroke combination to turn them on?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since you say ADB is enabled on the phone you should be able to pull out by means of ADB-driver the data in mind to your Windows computer.

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