I'm currently experiencing this issue when taking pictures with my P6.
I took this picture of a yellow paper on a green chair. Here's how it looks like from a few feet away:
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However, when I move the camera in closer this is what I get:
The phone is completely unable to handle these color combinations at this range and everything ends up looking like it's in grayscale. I haven't been able to reproduce this with different subjects, but it happens every time under these conditions and my wife's P6 does the exact same thing.
So I'm wondering if this is a known issue with the camera? Is it a fluke? Does it indicate an issue with our camera modules? Has anyone seen this before? We got these off of Swappa, and if this is a hardware issue we shouldn't be expecting to see, I want to look into switching them out sooner rather than later. Any help will be appreciated!
SLJ said:
I haven't been able to reproduce this with different subjects, but it happens every time under these conditions and my wife's P6 does the exact same thing.
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I think you need to sample a wider range of colors and lighting before worrying about the hardware. Sounds like you've just stumbled on a weird color combination. You have the benefit of two Pixel 6 cameras for comparison and based on that alone they're probably Ok.
Use a photo color chart to measure color throughput. Lightning has to be the same color temperature ie same light source for all images. A calibrated monitor should be used. Shoot raw images if possible.
In the images above it looks to me me like the bottom one is under saturated...
The shooting conditions are likely screwing up the color temperature or an other processing parameter like saturation. If you change the distance to the subject that might do it too depending on shooting conditions ie surrounding reflected colors and light sources.
manjaroid said:
I think you need to sample a wider range of colors and lighting before worrying about the hardware. Sounds like you've just stumbled on a weird color combination. You have the benefit of two Pixel 6 cameras for comparison and based on that alone they're probably Ok.
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Fantastic point, thanks! I tried the same shot again earlier with the wide angle lens and the issue is present, so definitely doesn't seem like a hardware issue. Still not a great situation.
blackhawk said:
Use a photo color chart to measure color throughput. Lightning has to be the same color temperature ie same light source for all images. A calibrated monitor should be used. Shoot raw images if possible.
In the images above it looks to me me like the bottom one is under saturated...
The shooting conditions are likely screwing up the color temperature or an other processing parameter like saturation. If you change the distance to the subject that might do it too depending on shooting conditions ie surrounding reflected colors and light sources.
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Yeah changing the distance is how I got the two images above. Hopefully this doesn't show up under other circumstances.
SLJ said:
Yeah changing the distance is how I got the two images above. Hopefully this doesn't show up under other circumstances.
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I think this is likely normal and harmless.
Simply post edit and increase the saturation slightly.
Even with pro cams tweaking the contrast curve is a common post edited.
SLJ said:
Yeah changing the distance is how I got the two images above. Hopefully this doesn't show up under other circumstances.
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Digital zoom definitely had an effect on color in that one shot. But if your Pixel(s) are working normally you'll likely see better colors at 2x or portrait mode most other times. I haven't studied color much with the Pixel 6 camera but I do think its digital zoom is the sharpest I've ever seen in a phone.
As @blackhawk mentioned, light temperature is a big factor. Here's what happens indoors with the flick of a lamp switch...
The first image was made in diffused daylight coming from a window. The yellow fabric isn't as dynamic as the real thing but it's a reasonable likeness. The second image mixes incandescent orange light with daylight that completely changed the fabric's color. If I take the fabric outside on a sunny day I'd probably get shades of yellow brighter than the real thing.
Which has me wondering... If you do the same 2x shot with a high dose of blue light by enabling the flash, are yellow and green closer to your wide shot, or brighter?
manjaroid said:
Digital zoom definitely had an effect on color in that one shot. But if your Pixel(s) are working normally you'll likely see better colors at 2x or portrait mode most other times. I haven't studied color much with the Pixel 6 camera but I do think its digital zoom is the sharpest I've ever seen in a phone.
As @blackhawk mentioned, light temperature is a big factor. Here's what happens indoors with the flick of a lamp switch...
View attachment 5605927
View attachment 5605929
The first image was made in diffused daylight coming from a window. The yellow fabric isn't as dynamic as the real thing but it's a reasonable likeness. The second image mixes incandescent orange light with daylight that completely changed the fabric's color. If I take the fabric outside on a sunny day I'd probably get shades of yellow brighter than the real thing.
Which has me wondering... If you do the same 2x shot with a high dose of blue light by enabling the flash, are yellow and green closer to your wide shot, or brighter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can play around with that. To be clear though, my two pictures weren't taken with digital zoom, they were taken with the phone itself moved closer to the subject.
SLJ said:
my two pictures weren't taken with digital zoom, they were taken with the phone itself moved closer to the subject.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ahh, I made an assumption. My samples are 2x zoom.
People take for granted to human eye's and optical cortex's incredible processing power and performance. It's nearly seamless with adaptive learning no AI can match, it's exponentially better.
With cameras you need to learn to see the world through its eye. Learn it's capabilities and limitations and shoot accordingly. This is true with the best pro cams and lens. For what it is the smartphone cams do very well especially if used properly. The same learning curves apply to them as it does to all cameras. Photography is a very complex art form.
It's not the cam that grabs keepers, it's the shooter. Ansel Adams was grabbing incredible keepers with primitive cams well over a hundred years ago. He would have killed for the speed and color of a smartphone's camera.
Related
Thought people might be interested in knowing I've started a Flickr group for the Lumia 800.
http://www.flickr.com/groups/[email protected]/
Would love to see what others have been able to capture with the nifty little camera on our phones
I just joined the group... will try to upload photos taken by my lumia 800...
Anyone has red tint on photo taken using Lumia 800?
Mine has it when the ambient light is not strong...
i have tinted photos as well. the auto color balance is horrible. all pictures are sepia-ish
like that, i will join you too
Thanks!!
Just joined group but haven't posted yet. I've had my Lumia a whopping 48 hours at this point and haven't had a chance to really wring out the camera yet.
Hope to rectify that this weekend.
Don't see what all the complaints are about. Has more settings than my HD7 did - and all the additions are useful (I love the exposure setting). Shutter response is identical to any smartphone camera I've had before.
As far as photo color - maybe I'm jaded, but I don't think ANY smartphone camera is all that great. The HD7 surprised me because being mediocre in almost all other respects, the camera was pretty good. To me, these cameras will never replace a decent 35mm; they're a step above a Kodak Instamatic or typical 35mm disposable in my opinion. I think it's pretty much mandatory with phone cameras to have something like PicturesLab or Thumba to tart up the pictures a bit and have them looking decent.
Cheers,
Maybe after altering a few settings like white balance, you can make it behave well. But out of the box at default settings the Lumia800 is not surprisingly good.
just a reminder of 4 years ago where the Nokia N95 could deliver images comparable to a reasonably good point and shoot camera
My first real photo on the Lumia.. no editing..
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I did a test in ambient light this evening.
I have the following preliminary conclusions:
A. Picture quality seems okay looking at the results on the phone itself
B. Contrast and saturation settings together are so agressive that you need these set to default in order to get a decent picture
C. Yes, the red burn on photos is clearly there.
D. Auto white balance is a disaster as well as the manual settings. These are way too agressive too. If these would be applied at fifty percent would be much better.
picture of apollo15rover shows the agressive auto settings. Very high contrast as shades are very dark, the grass seems too dark green, and the bright is overburnt. that it is done by the camera settings..I recognize this too in my own photos taken with the lumia.
htc12345 said:
I did a test in ambient light this evening.
I have the following preliminary conclusions:
A. Picture quality seems okay looking at the results on the phone itself
B. Contrast and saturation settings together are so agressive that you need these set to default in order to get a decent picture
C. Yes, the red burn on photos is clearly there.
D. Auto white balance is a disaster as well as the manual settings. These are way too agressive too. If these would be applied at fifty percent would be much better.
picture of apollo15rover shows the agressive auto settings. Very high contrast as shades are very dark, the grass seems too dark green, and the bright is overburnt. that it is done by the camera settings..I recognize this too in my own photos taken with the lumia.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree with all.. but still pretty happy the way this turned out.. Clarity and detail aren't lacking. I took with Macro focus (had not discovered macro scene yet)
I did try to take a couple with one notch up on saturation and it might as well have been solarized!
On a positive note I found something that has not been on any smartphone I have had in the past: Macro Scene PLUS Macro Focus - so I can now take low depth of field shots!
Here's another unedited photo..
All settings normal/auto except I lowered Contrast and Saturation 1 notch to "Low" each.. To me it's a bit washed out, but more easy to correct in photo program than trying to go the other way..
htc12345 said:
I did a test in ambient light this evening.
I have the following preliminary conclusions:
C. Yes, the red burn on photos is clearly there.
D .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Recently tried to shoot some lighter color subjects and now also noticing the red burn in the middle.. Anyone discover the trick of getting rid of it?
Edit.. Must be in the white balance. Doesn't appear on outdoor photos. Also, I re-shot the interior photo with the burn using flash, and the burn was completely eliminated. Not too happy being a fan of natural light photography..
USA is a beautiful country
Wodnik Szuwarek said:
USA is a beautiful country
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Why, cause we're not covered in ice right now?
You have an interesting shape of the surface
apollo15rover said:
My first real photo on the Lumia.. no editing..
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For a phone that's out of this world. For a point and shoot its perfect.
A small test-image i took with the default settings (apart from the mode [set to macro] and the flash [i had to disable it]). The focus should be on the third black key.
If you're colorblind, please disregard this thread. Rate this thread to express how you deem the color saturation and accuracy of the Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge's display. A higher rating indicates that you think that color accuracy is very high and saturation is excellent.
Then, drop a comment if you have anything to add!
Screen and color's are great! Only whites aren't really white, they are yellowish.
JeffreyNijnatten said:
Screen and color's are great! Only whites aren't really white, they are yellowish.
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My G935F too. It has a little bit yellowish display. I hope Samsung to fix this issue soon
It's an amoled screen, don't think there's much they can do. There's pros and cons to amoled screens just like there's to LCD screens
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Whites are a bit yellowish. Looks weird and terrible compared to the screen on my One Plus One which shows true whites and highly accurate colors. Guess will have to live with it since this isn't device specific at my location.
very nice screen and color. white is great color.
On adaptive mode the whites are pretty white (maybe on the bluish side) but the colors are too vibrant. I'm on photo mode and the whites are very warm. Im seeing a brownish orange tint to the whites.
well
well
Cryosx said:
On adaptive mode the whites are pretty white (maybe on the bluish side) but the colors are too vibrant. I'm on photo mode and the whites are very warm. Im seeing a brownish orange tint to the whites.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly and I don't mind my whites being a bit bluish, like my laundry.
On a Basic mode, the white are warmer (I dont really mind that since it soft on the eyes) than the other modes but the color accuracy are so accurate!
With screen mode set to Amoled Photo it's very accurate.
(I'm a professional photographer so am comparing the colour and white balance representation to my calibrated monitor).
Mubble said:
With screen mode set to Amoled Photo it's very accurate.
(I'm a professional photographer so am comparing the colour and white balance representation to my calibrated monitor).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think 'photo mode' complies with the sRGB spectrum which still oversaturates colours compared to RGB. - If you do photo work and need pin point accuracy with this mode it is about as good as it gets.
For normal use however the 'Basic' mode has been tuned to almost 100% accuracy.
I agree that whites, especially at lower brightness levels, have a yellowish tint to them.
Unfortunately Samsung, in their pursuit for 'technical perfection' (total colour accuracy ... which this model comes closer to than any other phone screen on the market at present) have not included any other white balance adjustment, just the four presets. Not good.
Even my Elephone P9000, a superb phone for the money, has much more elaborate controls in form of Mira Vision/Mediatek which lets me adjust many parameters, including white balance, which are unaccessible in my S7E.
I have read that in the current beta version of Android N there is indeed built-in white balance adjustments which would go a long way to eleviate this issue. Whether this will make it to Android N final version is an altogether different question.
Furthermore, even if it does, Samsung are not exactly the quickest adopters of Android upgrades so it could be some time until we see this on an S7/Edge.
Rooting seems to be the only option to get white balance adjustment.
Samsung, if you read this, please include colour sliders/white balance adjustment with your next upgrade. - Many, many thanks.
In most other aspects, this phone is superb.
I understand why some people may want white balance adjustment, but understand that the white point in basic mode is what true white is supposed to be. Bluish whites that many people prefer are color inaccurate. Giving a way to adjust white balance within the modes makes sense, but I certainly wouldn't want the bluish whites that are found within Adaptive Display and AMOLED Cinema to make their way over to AMOLED Photo and Basic modes, because then the insane possible color accuracy of these screens is out the window.
Cinema and Adaptive are bluish colors, which is better for me since i don't like the yellowish colors of Photo and Basic.
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How uniform are whites?
samven582 said:
How uniform are whites?
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I can only speak for my phone but screen uniformity is perfect.
Use LightManager from the app store if whites are to warm.
drummerman said:
I can only speak for my phone but screen uniformity is perfect.
Use LightManager from the app store if whites are to warm.
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Thank! Which color did you buy?
samven582 said:
Thank! Which color did you buy?
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Platinum Gold
Luvely ...
Do you guys put much faith in Display Mate's website?
For what it's worth, I prefer AMOLED Photo mode because Basic just felt a little too drab when I tried it for a few days, and Adaptive is obviously way too saturated.
XDA_RealLifeReview said:
If you're colorblind, please disregard this thread. Rate this thread to express how you deem the color saturation and accuracy of the Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge's display. A higher rating indicates that you think that color accuracy is very high and saturation is excellent.
Then, drop a comment if you have anything to add!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have never understood the gigantic deal some make about color accuracy. it's not like most people can even tell when the colors are slightly off. it's just something that grossly extremist of color can snarl and blow steam about. i have always preferred the punchy colors of the samsung displays, and although most of the time the colors are not 100% accurate, they are so close as to not make any difference to the 99.9% of the rest of us.
In my experience, the stock camera's HDR+ mode works great for suppressing noise in low-light pics, but doesn't really do much for actual high dynamic range scenes.
In a typical dark foreground/sunny background situation, my (2014) Moto X used to do a great job keeping the highlights from overexposing and bringing up the dark parts of the scene. My 6P, on the other hand, using the stock Google camera with HDR+ active, barely seems to do anything in this respect. Sunny skies are still blown out, faces in the foreground almost black. I'm not looking for an overprocessed HDR "effect", but this seems a little too subtle.
I just want to make sure this isn't a problem specific to my device, so: anyone else seeing the same thing?
Edit -- I tried a couple of dedicated HDR apps from the Play Store but they all say that the 6P lacks exposure mode so they can't do the bracketing needed for true HDR.
I feel the same. Compared to the LG G4 I had before, HDR on 6P barely does anything.
Maybe its my old eyes, but I can't noticed a real difference either.
Thanks folks. So it isn't just me.
Maybe "HDR" is just a poorly chosen name for this feature. Like I said, for noisy low-light pics it works really well. Just look closely while it's still processing: shortly after it finishes, you can see the noisy version being replaced with much cleaner picture. But apparently it's not optimized for high-contrast scenes.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6P met Tapatalk
Actually it works really well. Here's why: it saves you from blowing your highlights. It doesn't do much for shadows, however it gives you a very clean image where your able to boost the shadows to your liking and the image remains clean. It stays away from that garbage fake "HDR" look that most apps create.
Also! Proshot does exposure bracketing very well. Here is a screenshot of how to setup the settings for it to work. Use these settings and you'll be fine.
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Hey, thanks.
What got me doubting was an example in the article where Google introduced the feature, here. In the second example (the landscape with the two girls in the foreground), the difference is quite pronounced. The image on the right, shot with HDR+ on, has a fully defined sky with visible clouds etc.
But I've shot images with HDR+ on that looked a lot more like the blown-out comparison shot on the left, with large highlight zones with no detail captured at all. Could be I was asking too much of it on those occasions, I'm not sure. I'll experiment a little more and try and get some examples.
ProShot is great, thanks for the tip, just bought the full version!
Hi, I've been struggling with HDR apps on the 6P thanks to the exposure compensation bug (https://code.google.com/p/android/issues/detail?id=196815) and was hoping your Pro Shot setting might help. When I tried it I got three photos, but two were at the same exposure, while the third was much much brighter. It also doesn't seem to merge them together automatically.
supertallrich said:
Hi, I've been struggling with HDR apps on the 6P thanks to the exposure compensation bug (https://code.google.com/p/android/issues/detail?id=196815) and was hoping your Pro Shot setting might help. When I tried it I got three photos, but two were at the same exposure, while the third was much much brighter. It also doesn't seem to merge them together automatically.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Instead of using SPD4 use SPD1.
Also, proshot doesn't merge them for you. You have to do that yourself.
Mr Patchy Patch said:
Instead of using SPD4 use SPD1.
Also, proshot doesn't merge them for you. You have to do that yourself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, that did the trick! Good to know about the merging, much appreciated.
supertallrich said:
Thanks, that did the trick! Good to know about the merging, much appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem. Enjoy!
Noup, you're not the only one I usually have to choose between having blowed out skies or having people underexposed ...
I just switched to my 6P from an LG G4. While I liked the HDR on the camera, I feel the 6P produces a better image overall. Much less sharpening/watercolor look to the 6P photos. The LG's started to look like fake watercolors when you view them on anything but the phone, unless the light was absolutely perfect, which it rarely was.
But with that said, HDR seems to be terrible on this phone with the stock app, in my limited experience.
Robrecht said:
In my experience, the stock camera's HDR+ mode works great for suppressing noise in low-light pics, but doesn't really do much for actual high dynamic range scenes.
In a typical dark foreground/sunny background situation, my (2014) Moto X used to do a great job keeping the highlights from overexposing and bringing up the dark parts of the scene. My 6P, on the other hand, using the stock Google camera with HDR+ active, barely seems to do anything in this respect. Sunny skies are still blown out, faces in the foreground almost black. I'm not looking for an overprocessed HDR "effect", but this seems a little too subtle.
I just want to make sure this isn't a problem specific to my device, so: anyone else seeing the same thing?
Edit -- I tried a couple of dedicated HDR apps from the Play Store but they all say that the 6P lacks exposure mode so they can't do the bracketing needed for true HDR.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Take a picture inside by a window and you can see the difference with HDR+ on. You can basically see what's outside the window with HDR+ on but the window looks blown out with it off.
This... I've written about this before saying that it shouldn't be called HDR+ but instead Low Light+. The HDR effect is minimal compared to the low light noise reduction.
Typically on an iPhone you can get reasonable backlit photos. When I tried to do the same on my Nexus 6p, HDR+ offered little to no improvement. I decided to use my iPhone instead which did a mich better job for actually adding dynamic range.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Hi All,
Has anyone messed around with long exposures on the wide-angle lens yet? For some reason they seem to have HEAVY green tinting. I tried a large range of WB settings but is still about the same.
Here's a link to a Flickr album (sorry I know imgur is king) where there are a few examples, including a hill that I shot back to back with the same settings. The haze in the main lens picture looks natural, but the wide angle is completely green. Same with the picture with a bit of light painting.
https://goo.gl/vjgjkD
Anyone else have the same experience?
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Well, first of all, they aren't the same settings. And the settings for the normal lens when translated for the wide angle don't quite equate to what would be needed to match the exact exposure. Next question I have is what is out beyond that hill that is contributing to the light and what white balance settings did you use? All Flickr says is that it was manual.
I will say that using high gain and long exposures with cellphones and SOOC will not bode well, for any cellphone. That's really the realm of a much larger sensor still if you're looking for good results.
mynameistory said:
For some reason they seem to have HEAVY green tinting. I tried a large range of WB settings but is still about the same.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WB is about blue (cool high degrees K) and yellow/red (warm lower degrees K). Can't remove green with WB
But it's easy to fix.To cancel green tint add magenta in a photo app of your choice. No magenta in your photo originally so it will be easier
Some times i see some phone cameras get a magenta tint in low light, the fix is the opposite, add green
Here's a link to a Flickr album (sorry I know imgur is king) where there are a few examples, including a hill that I shot back to back with the same settings. The haze in the main lens picture looks natural, but the wide angle is completely green. Same with the picture with a bit of light painting.
https://goo.gl/vjgjkD
Anyone else have the same experience?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice photos
imgur is most certainly not king, neither is the god awful tapatalk this board still employs. Flickr is king. Always use it
I don't think it's just in the long exposures. Here's a photo of Royce Hall last night. The inner brickwork is illuminated with warmer lighting while the outside faces white campus lights. I tweaked the tint a bit with Aviary in the second pic.
The illumination in the desert photos is usually thin cloud cover that is picking up moonlight. Not many nearby cities in the Mojave that can kick up a lot of light pollution. I know that the sensor sizes are nothing compared to real cameras, but I really have no problem with rest of the images as they are. The green-heavy tuning is just incredibly bizarre.
Here's an image "straight out of camera" from the V10 in the Mojave National Preserve (I know it has a larger sensor than either on the V30, I don't think I appreciated that phone enough). The moonlight is white like it's supposed to be.
Even the wide-angle on the G5 took a decent pre-sunrise picture up on the White Mountains
This just makes me wonder if the tuning on the wide-angle is a little goofball. The main lens just doesn't seem to have this much green.
I'd still need details that you aren't giving us. In the case of the campus building, what type of lights are each ones you're adjusting for? When you mix lighting types, you're going to end up with weird tints and casts. That's why you try not to mix lighting types unless it is the desired effect.
As for the Mojave, what part of it were you in and what direction were you facing? It is surrounded by the light domes for the Greater LA area, Las Vegas, Bullhead City/Needles. And they're getting worse now with LED street lights as more light dome pop-up in places not previously thought to light up.
The other photos from the Mojave with other cameras, were they taken the same night? There is no EXIF information for me to look at to see setting, etc.
Sorry, but I do QA and I need to be able to isolate all of the variables in order to give you an educated answer.
Apologies, I'm not trying to be obscure on purpose.
I'm assuming the lights inside the building are incandescent and the ones in the courtyard (illuminating the face) are some sort of LED or halogen. But, indeed very cool lighting compared to interior lights. This was an auto shot, EXIF only shows me WB (auto) and exposure at 1/10 second.
From original post with stars over the empty hill: https://goo.gl/maps/Bpk6mkf6Zt12
That's just outside of Darwin, looking southeast towards the Panamint mountains.
The pictures of the blue tent are from here: https://goo.gl/maps/HWN8qTBWyos
Just outside of Rhyolite, looking north towards Sawtooth mountain. You can see the red light from the antennas on the left side of the tent. The light painting was done with a plain white LED flashlight. It looks vivid green in the photo.
The shot from the V10 with several tents is here in the MNP: https://goo.gl/maps/X556HMkwgJy
Looking southeast towards the Old Woman Mountains.
The G5 sunrise picture with the headlight trail is here: https://goo.gl/maps/oyL8TuSDz972
Looking east towards Nevada.
They're all about as remote as you can get shy of Saline Valley.
I know I'm not isolating every last variable out of these. It's mostly because they just seem so damn green compared to anything I'm used to. Has anyone else taken low light photos with the wide-angle? If so, are you seeing similar results?
Ok, your last one (G5) is at a near dark site shooting towards a dark site.
Your V10 shot is shot in a dark site. True SE puts the closest light dome as being Lake Havasu City.
Shots outside of Rhyolite would have a light dome to the near east but dark site to the north.
Darwin shots would be a dark site mostly shooting towards dark site with a possible light dome to the right further out.
So we have that bit figured out. You mentioned light painting. Looks like you have exterior and interior lighting. Same light, different light, which light was used when you first set-off the exposure? (I think you could be running into the same issue with campus building of mixed lighting.)
I'm having the same issue with the camera on mine. It's a bit annoying.
Same issue as ever. Any long-exposure using the wide-angle is way too damn green. This is an incandescent flashlight on brown dirt.
Tonight on my way home, the sky above the mountains was a beautiful blood red and for some reason it comes across as orange / pink from far away and pink / white when zoomed in.
This is not the first cellphone camera to have taken photos where the reds didn't come through. My Galaxy S4, S5 and 7 were not able to take pictures of red either, it always turned out orange.
What am I doing wrong to not be able to get reds to translate.
Here are pictures from the different phones. All the red LEDs i used were from the same rolls I bought and were all supposed to be dark red, not orange in anyway. The closest i ever got was the lat photo and it's still only about half way there.
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Having a greater understanding of digital cameras and the software used to process the image as well as how they work together will help... I'm no expert, but suspect this link will help...
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3821409
Could be you need to be using more manual settings when you want to focus on a specific deep color or turn off any automatic processing. Could also be the relatively cheap sensors they're using in cell phones vs "real" camera sensors being used on the higher end in full body shooters.
Looks like you're over-exposing the parts you actually want red by exposing for other parts of the frame. In the mountain shot, there are other spots that are red. The last shot with the clock and hazard button, the hazard button is close, maybe migrating a little into the pink or magenta shades. (Can see a bit of magenta cast in other parts, so a WB adjustment needs to be made.) Shifter photo I can see a bit of red reflecting off of the upper shifter shaft but the actual lights are overexposed if they were red or orange. The bed frame you have some red at the bottom of the frame but as you get closer to the light source it washes out. So overall, I'd say it's an exposure issue that isn't really the camera's fault.
The sky with mountains you're running into a dynamic range issue and that'll be a problem for just about any camera. A scene like that would require more than just a couple of frames blended together. You're looking at a background that is essentially still extremely bright compared to the rest of the frame as it is "indirectly" lit by the sun. The foreground is the next brightest as it is close wide spread light sources. The mountains themselves and band of town directly below them are the bottom end of the exposure and where your reds will get to be reds.
The other issue is that sensors all tend to have a bias towards a color that they shoot well and one they don't. For a VAST majority of sensors, red will tend to blow out first. This goes for large pro sensors all the way down to cellphones. It's just one of the many things you learn when you dive into when really getting to know your tools. That's why high end cameras have had RGB histograms for the longest time, so you can keep an eye on reds clipping. The Camera FV-5 app has the ability to show a live RGB histogram. At this point in my shooting though, I just shoot then look at the overall frame and the areas I feel really matter. If I like it or know I can work with it, I keep it. If not, then I readjust my settings and reshoot.
you miss to take a photo with google camera, on v30!
Lyvyoo said:
you miss to take a photo with google camera, on v30!
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Sorry can you say that again?
slight22 said:
Sorry can you say that again?
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I think he's saying that you should have used the Google camera app, word is that it takes far better shots on auto, particularly in situations like this where HDR/HDR+ would be on.
It seems it was posted a while back, try giving it a go.
Yes, thank you Septfox. I'm sure that Google Camera app will bring much more DR and overall improved results on V30. Don't forget to come back with conclusions!
Example here (V30 vs Pixel 2, and after V30 with Google Camera vs Pixel 2)
There seems to be a lot of variance on the different versions of the Google Camera app. Even different versions of the same port can be a bit hit or miss. I've had a mixed bag of results with it. Last port I used a couple of nights ago, I ended up using the LG camera app shots instead of the Google Camera app ones.
slight22 said:
This is not the first cellphone camera to have taken photos where the reds didn't come through. My Galaxy S4, S5 and 7 were not able to take pictures of red either, it always turned out orange.
What am I doing wrong to not be able to get reds to translate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reds blow out first. You have to underexpose to prevent that then brighten shadows and the rest up in a photo editing program. Take it with EV -2 say or less as required. Do that and you will be able to do better than the pixel camera
YMMV, a sunset might be too much to get due to difference in the sky and the ground. So help the camera. Take it when its darker but still red that way the difference between brightest and darkest will be less
It always comes down to one thing, silcon based computing can't keep up with carbon based ie. YOU
Thanks everyone for the thoughts and i will try the google photo app.
Update - So I tried the Google Pixel photo app (had to download the APK) with HDR on still doesn't seem to do the job with reds. The elevator button is a solid red, and again looks pink.
Again, you need to dial back the exposure. Just switching apps isn't going to do the trick.
Yep, try using EV -2 as a quick workaround. If that isn't enough you might have to speed up the shutter to go further.
The idea is to expose it right. Red should appear as red in the photo. Never mind if the photo appears underexposed. It can be brightened later.
You are taking a photo of a light source. The elevator button and everything else is darker in relation. This in itself could be tricking the camera into thinking the scene is too dark and it brightens it up and blows out the red.
Cameras still don't know what they are taking photos of. They need guidance