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Hi guys, ok heres a problem i am left with , i have an XDA IIs with what i think is a cracked lcd ( bleeding badly ) i m sure the touch screen is ok as there is no crack as such - question i have is is it easy enough to replace the screen ?, and or where can i get instructions from - i have never dimantled a pda - but repaired many fones and other brown goods --cheers in advance
this pdf helped me when I had to dismantle my BA...
Link broken
bukwit said:
this pdf helped me when I had to dismantle my BA...
ftp://xda:[email protected]/sx66_09.pdf
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
please help - seems this is a dead link ...
working link is in this thread...the 23rd post...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=230049&page=3
Should be quite easy
I have done it myself with my BA and it was quite easy.
Link is not working
bukwit said:
this pdf helped me when I had to dismantle my BA...
ftp://xda:[email protected]/sx66_09.pdf
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can anyone help - please.
No problems - Google found on another site
zybercynic said:
Can anyone help - please.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://pdasmart.zftp.com/instructions/sx66_09.pdf
For all of those who are performing case surgery - please note that the BA (M2000) has extra screws to remove before the case will separate.
You will need T5, T6 and an ultra fine Philips head screwdrivers to remove screws.
XDA IIs LCD replacement
I have dismantled a XDA IIs, but am not sure how to get the LCD out of the front cover, there seems to be some plastic welds holding the front cover together?
Can any one assist please?
I will have a go at explaining
ok try to explain
1. take off battery
2. unscrew the four torx4/torx5 screws including the one under warning label but no need to touch the phone idenity label
3. unscrew the two side screws located near top
4. take out pen and any card in device
5. carefully remove back (now you will be able to see the circuit board)
6. looking at the phone lcd down so you see the circuit board remove screws (small philips/ crossheads silver in color)
1.top left
2. top right
3. midle right near small cable
now you should be able to move the circuit board (do not force apart)
the lcd cable and keyboard cable are attached to the underside of the board
1. slide the phone 50% open (but keep phone lcd face down so you are look at the board phone the (keyboad being closest to you than main speaker))
2. carefully lift left side of board (you should see the cables) using a small screwdriver Very Carefully pry them off the board (the should pop off with no force needed)
3. slide phone fully open and now you are able to see all 4 torx screws that hold the front part of the phone on just under the circuit boad
* bottom 2 are in small cut out boxes just under to circuit board you may need to slide the front up or down to align with the screws
*the top 2 you should have notice when you fully opened the phone in normal use and looked at the back of the lcd at top behind speaker
4. the front surround and lcd and buttons will come off carefully remove from bottom near the navigation buttons
5. the phone should now be able to split into the two halfs with cables
6. you should be able to unscrew the the lcd and the cable 2 top 2 bottom for lcd but you have to also remove the button ribbon cable
replace lcd and reverse process
*the lcd cable needed to be pushed into the socket on the underside of the circuit board (this can be tricky take ur time)
*the keyboard cable is simular to the lcd cable but it has a smaller socket that it clips into
maybe this is a quick help I should have looked about a bit maybe someone done it better with pictures than me hey it only took 10mins
BlueDragon747 said:
ok try to explain
1. take off battery
2. unscrew the four torx4/torx5 screws including the one under warning label but no need to touch the phone idenity label
3. unscrew the two side screws located near top
4. take out pen and any card in device
5. carefully remove back (now you will be able to see the circuit board)
6. looking at the phone lcd down so you see the circuit board remove screws (small philips/ crossheads silver in color)
1.top left
2. top right
3. midle right near small cable
now you should be able to move the circuit board (do not force apart)
the lcd cable and keyboard cable are attached to the underside of the board
1. slide the phone 50% open (but keep phone lcd face down so you are look at the board phone the (keyboad being closest to you than main speaker))
2. carefully lift left side of board (you should see the cables) using a small screwdriver Very Carefully pry them off the board (the should pop off with no force needed)
3. slide phone fully open and now you are able to see all 4 torx screws that hold the front part of the phone on just under the circuit boad
* bottom 2 are in small cut out boxes just under to circuit board you may need to slide the front up or down to align with the screws
*the top 2 you should have notice when you fully opened the phone in normal use and looked at the back of the lcd at top behind speaker
4. the front surround and lcd and buttons will come off carefully remove from bottom near the navigation buttons
5. the phone should now be able to split into the two halfs with cables
6. you should be able to unscrew the the lcd and the cable 2 top 2 bottom for lcd but you have to also remove the button ribbon cable
replace lcd and reverse process
*the lcd cable needed to be pushed into the socket on the underside of the circuit board (this can be tricky take ur time)
*the keyboard cable is simular to the lcd cable but it has a smaller socket that it clips into
maybe this is a quick help I should have looked about a bit maybe someone done it better with pictures than me hey it only took 10mins
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
these instructions i will cherish , cheers for the detailed breakdown...
Please help me how to seperate the LCD and touchscreen?
I bought the BA with a broken touchscreen, the LCD is fine, I got a new touchscreen and disassemble it, I don't know how to do next, can anyone tell me how to seperate the LCD and touchscreen? and how to unplug and plug the touchscreen cable? Thank you very much!!
i have detailed instructions PDF with pictures.
drop me an email
lcd instructions
try www.htclcd.com for lcd replacement instructions
blue angel
could you send me that pdf file please (instructions PDF with pictures xdaIIs touch replacement)
thanks
Hi, is there any chance to get Topaz disassembly guide?
THX
Edit: Dont need it anymore, I have done it, not difficult at all (similar to Nokia phones). HTC made Topaz very easy to disassembly.
I was cleaning part between digitizer and LCD from dust with antistaic brush and compressed air.
There are just 3 connectors to disconnect mainboard (digitizer, phone receiver and LCD), to get to the LCD. No coaxial cables to connect GPS and bluetooth antenna (all just by touch connectors to the black plastic top back part), Chipset is covered by metal plate, cant see it.
LCD: S/N: 1EJV093Q000069
P/N: 60H00209-00M S508
Can I request you get some high res photos of the PCB/LCD and/or record the ic part numbers while you've got it apart? It would be really useful to know for Linux/Android development.
Can you post what kind of gps chipset is buildin ?
Thanks in advance
Daniel
Thanks for the photos! Would you be able to post a higher res version of the 3rd one or simply scribe what is written on the back of the LCD. I'm hoping the serial number might give an indication of the chipset used in the LCD.
cheers!tsy
So you can sure tell us if the front frame is really metal or plastic ?
Its metal body iside of plastic housing.
Great job !
Thanx
some instructions or tips of how you disassembled it would be nice
i unscrewed my diamond2, and i cannot find a way to disassemble it..
help!
Hi
Nice work and photos.
One problem that has been reported, and I assume it was something you suffered from, is dust entering through the volume rocker and finding it's way onto the LCD display.
This seems rather an oversight by HTC as usually the LCD panel would have some form of seal or bezel (sticky or foam) to stop dust. Does the LCD panel have anything like this at all?
Regards
Phil
i found a htc service manual for diamond 2 that was leaked
not sure if i can post it here..
it explains how to disassemble the device
EDIT: I am so sorry, the leaked document is the user manual, it is incorrectly posted as the service manual in many sites. sorry
post it! what's the worst they can do... tell you to remove it?
PhilipL said:
Hi
Nice work and photos.
One problem that has been reported, and I assume it was something you suffered from, is dust entering through the volume rocker and finding it's way onto the LCD display.
This seems rather an oversight by HTC as usually the LCD panel would have some form of seal or bezel (sticky or foam) to stop dust. Does the LCD panel have anything like this at all?
Regards
Phil
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Look here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=520795&highlight=solution%21%21%21
Sticky? New Thread? & Help
I think we either need to sticky this, or make a new thread that encompasses all disassembly / dust leak information about the topaz.
I still cannot disassemble my device, i wish someone could help :/
Disassembling the Diamond 2 is really simple.
Remove the 4 T5 screws at the four corner
Remove the small plastic cover below the battery (might be optional)
Pop the main plastic body off the face piece (I use a really small flat screw driver) Starting from the top of the device
Remove the 3 connection then pop the main board
Remove the 4 hardware buttons then remove the LCD screen
I'll try to take some pictures when the new LCD screen arrives...
Guinea.Pig said:
Disassembling the Diamond 2 is really simple.
Remove the 4 T5 screws at the four corner
Remove the small plastic cover below the battery (might be optional)
Pop the main plastic body off the face piece (I use a really small flat screw driver) Starting from the top of the device
Remove the 3 connection then pop the main board
Remove the 4 hardware buttons then remove the LCD screen
I'll try to take some pictures when the new LCD screen arrives...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the steps. I just yesterday disassembled my TD2, but didn't dare remove the connections on the mainboard. The one on top left (see your pic mainboard.jpg) is no issue, but the other ones are tricky...or at least I thought they are. I couldn't figure out how to exactly remove those connectors. Could you maybe give some steps or info on how to remove those connectors? Thanks again for your help.
disassembly
thanks for the update . ill try and post pictures up when possible.
I am interested in this too, I have dropped mine a couple of times and am looking to replace the housing (although I have already been ripped off once by buying a repaired one on ebay).
So any idea where I can get a legitimate full housing and a guide to moving the guts from one to another?
Cheers,
Found this:
http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/htc-touch-diamond2/
Now I just need to find a genuine and complete housing.
Awesome
stormyuk said:
Found this:
http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/htc-touch-diamond2/
Now I just need to find a genuine and complete housing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your contribution stormyuk !
You can find housings on ebay, though most don't come with the buttons.
I bought one and its practically impossible to distinguish any differences,
Buy from kr-net on ebay its the seller that sold me my housing
Hi,
I recently purchased a HD2 on eBay. It was supposed to come immaculate but unfortunately there are dents on almost all corners. Rest if perfect.
I saw on eBay some chinese sellers selling new housing + battery covers for ~25 USD. So why not replacing the housing then? I decided to give it a try.
Well I have to say that it really did not work like in the videos I saw on youtube. I removed the 4 screws under the battery cover, gently pressed the back of the LCM outward but it really refused to pop out (no even half an inch). I discarded the pry tool (a very thine credit card actually) and even tried using a suction cup on the digitizer to pull it backwards but same problem. It's like the LCM/chassis was glued on the bezel. Phone has never been disassembled before (white sticker and void screw were still both there).
This is strange because in all the videos I saw the LCM/middle chassis was clearly not glued on the bezel. It immediately popped out a bit then you could start prying (and praying!). Ok I know that in those videos usually the phone has already been disassembled before so other attempts require less force to do it again for the recording.
My questions now to all the people who managed to do this. Did this require so much force? Is there a change and is HTC now glueing this part the LCM/middle chassis to the bezel? Any suggestion? Where is for you the best place to insert the pry tool when you start?
Thanks and regards,
Try flexing the plastic bezel above the earphone outwards a little while applying slight pressure to the sticker area on the back. There're two notches above which locks the frame to the pcb.
Hi,
Thanks for your help.
I will try that later.
I guess I might need to find a better pry tool.
BR.
Ok I managed to do it.
This required clearly some force on the pry tool (actually I used two plastic cards : a very thin and flexible one than a credit card). I started the operation above the earphone area.
Applying pressure on the sticker area was stresfull because the LCD immediately reacted to the pressure (hence a risk to break it or damage it). Best was to put two fingers on the sticker area to help the LCM module to pop out but with (almost) no pressure.
I had a doubt and now that I managed to remove the housing it's gone. The antennas (those white stuff you see in both top corners and at the bottom) are glued to the housing.
I prefer to spend a few more bucks to take a housing which has those antennas already in.
BR.
i had a similar frustrating experience to yours in trying to snap the back off the chassis on my hd2 which had a fingerprint on the *inside* of the camera cover glass which i needed to open it to get at.
it sure looks easy in that HTC disassembly video on youtube but the tech there is using a sort of plastic hooked tool for the job, which i didn't have, so i used my thumbnail instead in the same place (the upper left corner, looking at the phone from the front) and it took me a good 20 minutes of applying what seemed like unreasonable pressure to my touchscreen and nearly tearing my nail off to get it to pop out.
those snap-tabs the electronics manufacturers use to hold cases together -- even when they also have screws to do the job -- are one of my all-time pet hates. i usually end up breaking them off.
I will be doing the same thing soon. So the housing you removed has antennas glued to it ?. Thanks for that, I will try get new housing with antenna together if possible.
I replaced my screen a while back and can confirm the main body of the hd2 is glued to the sides of the chassis.
It does come out but with a lot of force but pry the glue lose around the whole chassis first by sliding a thin card right ot the bottom of the case and slowlyu move and pry it upwards with 2 cards one on the top and other on the right after you losend the glue. the top has the wifi adapter n that so be careful bottom has usb so mite break.
honestly i would say don't bother replacing it and just get a gel case or something to hide the damage. there's a high chance of messing the digitizer up and would just cause you more trouble of taking the whole phone apart bit by bit and trust me the components are tiny so easily breakable especially the ribbon cables they decided to use. my honest opinion don't
fallenmonk said:
I will be doing the same thing soon. So the housing you removed has antennas glued to it ?. Thanks for that, I will try get new housing with antenna together if possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yep they are white thin bits glued to the top portion of the case. wifi on left and phone on right if i remember. its been quite a while though since i took my old hd2 apart
Now that I know how to do this I will be easier next time.
Yes antennas are glued in the housing so best is to buy a housing which has antennas already in.
Important note : the antenna which is at the bottom of the housing exists in two different versions : EU or US so check with the seller which one he sells.
BR.
Top left : Amphenol-BT&Wifi-090820
Top right : Amphenol-GPS-090820
Bottom : Amphenol-EU-090828
If T-Mobiles US you need Amphenol-US
sirec said:
I replaced my screen a while back and can confirm the main body of the hd2 is glued to the sides of the chassis.
It does come out but with a lot of force but pry the glue lose around the whole chassis first by sliding a thin card right ot the bottom of the case and slowlyu move and pry it upwards with 2 cards one on the top and other on the right after you losend the glue. the top has the wifi adapter n that so be careful bottom has usb so mite break.
honestly i would say don't bother replacing it and just get a gel case or something to hide the damage. there's a high chance of messing the digitizer up and would just cause you more trouble of taking the whole phone apart bit by bit and trust me the components are tiny so easily breakable especially the ribbon cables they decided to use. my honest opinion don't
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i don't believe it's glued. as far as i can see the the case is held together with screws and plastic interlocking tabs. the trick is to get the latter to unclip.
No glue indeed just notches locking the LCM module to the bezel
Ok case closed
I got my new housing and the replacement went fine. For those who could be interrested I bought it on ebay from the seller forceviewer_uk in China. Everything went perfect so I can recommend this guy.
So as many people here know, the rear camera is a sore point on the Transformer Prime, in that it's known to go bad early and often. Not to beat a dead horse, here's how we fix the situation:
Replacing the rear camera module:
Yes it seems logical that this would be all you would need, but I've just confirmed myself that in fact it is only the camera module with a problem. The main issue with the fix is FINDING a good camera. I was a bit discouraged on my first attempt as I bought a rear camera on ebay listed as "working" from a parted out Transformer Prime only to go to the hassle of installing it and it not working. I can't say I was surprised, but after trying to find one for so long I took the chance. Upon recieving my refund, I purchased another rear webcam that surprisingly also surfaced. The seller for this second camera had TONS of feedback, and mostly products with the word "foxconn" in the title, indicating this guy seems to have a line on foxconn surplus parts, which for us is awesome. The camera I received appears to be brand new and fired up immediately! Not trying to push a particular seller but since many people are probably looking for this part, I'll post the link http://www.ebay.com/itm/Asus-Eee-Pa...?pt=US_Tablet_Accessories&hash=item416a33f1f9. The seller is skyline27 and he appears to have one left right now (I bought the second). NOW, enough theory, onto the howto.
HOWTO (the good stuff)
0. Turn off Tablet (thanks whycali)
1. Remove screen as instructed in other disassembly threads (wifi fix threads, etc) Advice for this includes working from the bottom first, being vary carefly to NEVER use the pry tool at either the latch holes or the bottom port, as these very thin pieces of aluminum will bend. Get your tool in (heh heh) to the left or right of these "holes" in the case, then slide the tool sideways past them to avoid prying outwards. Get the entire bottom free, then slowly work up the sides with your plastic tools/credit card. When you get to the top, try gently pulling the screen "Down" or the port. You can also pull up like the rest, but when I disassembled I saw what looked like "hooks" that made me want to slide the top out last by pulling it towards the dock port.
1.2 (I forgot) Flip switch on right side of motherboard (top board) that will disconnect power to the motherboard before disconnecting the battery. Don't forget to switch it back when finished, or it won't turn on. (thanks whycali)
1.5 (I forgot) unscrew and remove flash and microphone at top
2. You can either disconnect the screen ribbon cable from the motherboard *top board* (makes your life easier) or simply set the screen upside down, rotated 90, and to the left of the opened prime. This allows the cables to sit fairly easily, though since you'll be removing the motherboard anyways it may be easier to unplug
3. Unscrew 8 battery screws, carefully unplug wide connector (I used precision flathead to the left and right of plug as to not 'yank'). Set battery aside.
4. Be sure every cable is unplugged from the Motherboard. This includes a small battery on the left side, the power button/volume cable top left, as well as the speaker cable on the right side.
5. Remove all motherboard screws. Be sure you get them all, you don't want to snap the motherboard in half in a minute because we'll be pulling against a little adhesive.
6. Be careful. REMOVE MOTHERBOARD This is the step you're most likely to have an issue, but it's still really easy. Time to remove the motherboard. This is easy if you know what to expect.
6a Both cameras are slightly adhesived into their holes, also plugged to back of motherboard. You can either try and pull these with the mobo, or let them stay where they are and pull them out later (probably easier for beginners)
6b There is a thermal pad about 1/3 away from the left where the CPU is. It is a bit adhesive, but not too much
6c MOST IMPORTANT - The motherboard is sort of "sandwiched" into the ports on the sides. That is, it doesn't want to pull straight up and out, the hdmi and headphone jacks are in the way. I believe it's very easy to break the HDMI and/or headphone jack here, yet I haven't yet. 2 ways to approach, one is to pull the side of the tablet outward slightly at the headphone jack to slide it up, allowing you to lift that side of the board, then sliding to the right to clear the hdmi. The second method which I prefer, is pulling up on the mobo from the center, causing the outer edges to pull inward slightly as the board flexes a bit. Choose whichever you prefer
7. Replace the camera. If you're this far along, I really shouldn't have to explain this. The front and rear sit side by side, your front is probably good, there's a piece of tape over the connectors, pull up, replace rear, make sure plugged in firmly on both, replace tape.
Installation is reverse of removal. I recommend plugging the screen ribbon (and all ribbon cables) into the motherboard before reinstalling it, as the connectors are on the bottom of the board and very difficult to get at once installed in the prime. Again, flex the motherboard or prime slightly to clear the ports going back in. Be sure cameras are attached to the motherboard, when installing, be sure to double check one last time that they're still plugged into the board before putting the board down and letting the cameras sit in their plastic holders. And don't forget that internal power switch on the right side of the motherboard.
FWIW, and I'm sure many will disagree with me, but I typically check everything before snapping the screen back up by booting it up with a few sheets of paper between the screen and internals as an extra safety insulator. Check screen, touch screen, both cameras, SD card, speaker, then I snap it shut.
If anyone really needs pictures I think I have a few, though not really specifically of what I was doing, but I could highlight/circle the pics I have if anyone gets stuck.
I really hope I can help others get a working camera who can't/won't RMA for the issue. Now time to UNLOCK MUAHAHAHA!!!
One thing I mostly remember to do when I plan to disassemble the ribbon cables is to turn off the internal power switch first.
I know this is an older thread but does anybody know where to get a new camera. The one that is linked to in the above post is no longer available. Thanks
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk 2
Hey,
So after breaking my Atrix's screen, I ordered a new Touch screen digitizer and assembled it using a video guide.
The problem is, some parts of the screen like the top notifications, some keys etc... and the 4 buttons on the bottom (The Menu, home, search etc...) aren't working either.
While I was installing the touch screen, I had to peel of this little orange adhesive strip, except I damaged it a little bit.
I had to use a little bit of scotch tape to make it stick down again. I'm not sure if it's secure and tight enough.
To help you understand better exactly what I damaged, I marked it on the image attachment.
(I used the image from the tear down guide from iFixit, I can't insert links since I'm a new member.)
That part is still connected, but it's damaged and about 1/3 of it torn off.
Is this why the screen is unresponsive? If so, replacing it will solve the problem, right?
And if that's not why it's unresponsive, should I still replace this motherboard flex cable? What's it's purpose exactly?
Thank you very much,
White.Renard
White.Renard said:
Hey,
So after breaking my Atrix's screen, I ordered a new Touch screen digitizer and assembled it using a video guide.
The problem is, some parts of the screen like the top notifications, some keys etc... and the 4 buttons on the bottom (The Menu, home, search etc...) aren't working either.
While I was installing the touch screen, I had to peel of this little orange adhesive strip, except I damaged it a little bit.
I had to use a little bit of scotch tape to make it stick down again. I'm not sure if it's secure and tight enough.
To help you understand better exactly what I damaged, I marked it on the image attachment.
(I used the image from the tear down guide from iFixit, I can't insert links since I'm a new member.)
That part is still connected, but it's damaged and about 1/3 of it torn off.
Is this why the screen is unresponsive? If so, replacing it will solve the problem, right?
And if that's not why it's unresponsive, should I still replace this motherboard flex cable? What's it's purpose exactly?
Thank you very much,
White.Renard
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The phone that I use for testing has that torn in half and still works well. As far as I can tell, it's just a ground or some type of ESD control. As long as you have some metal contact left on it making contact with the "metal tray" (replace with proper term) it should be fine. Something with a little more aggressive adhesive (like duct tape) might work, but try to keep the tape as thin as possible because too much thickness may cause too much pressure may damage the digitizer. I would double check all connectors and make sure everything is plugged in securely.
lehjr said:
The phone that I use for testing has that torn in half and still works well. As far as I can tell, it's just a ground or some type of ESD control. As long as you have some metal contact left on it making contact with the "metal tray" (replace with proper term) it should be fine. Something with a little more aggressive adhesive (like duct tape) might work, but try to keep the tape as thin as possible because too much thickness may cause too much pressure may damage the digitizer. I would double check all connectors and make sure everything is plugged in securely.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot man
I'll make sure about the tape... so now that it's clear the problem wasn't that, is it safe to say that the new touch screen digitizer is faulty and needs to be replaced again?
P.S. I've checked the connections, like 3 times, they're connected properly.
Yeaj, sometimes (more than you may like) they will be faulty
Enviado desde mi MB860 usando Tapatalk 2