Hi guys, ok heres a problem i am left with , i have an XDA IIs with what i think is a cracked lcd ( bleeding badly ) i m sure the touch screen is ok as there is no crack as such - question i have is is it easy enough to replace the screen ?, and or where can i get instructions from - i have never dimantled a pda - but repaired many fones and other brown goods --cheers in advance
this pdf helped me when I had to dismantle my BA...
Link broken
bukwit said:
this pdf helped me when I had to dismantle my BA...
ftp://xda:[email protected]/sx66_09.pdf
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
please help - seems this is a dead link ...
working link is in this thread...the 23rd post...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=230049&page=3
Should be quite easy
I have done it myself with my BA and it was quite easy.
Link is not working
bukwit said:
this pdf helped me when I had to dismantle my BA...
ftp://xda:[email protected]/sx66_09.pdf
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can anyone help - please.
No problems - Google found on another site
zybercynic said:
Can anyone help - please.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://pdasmart.zftp.com/instructions/sx66_09.pdf
For all of those who are performing case surgery - please note that the BA (M2000) has extra screws to remove before the case will separate.
You will need T5, T6 and an ultra fine Philips head screwdrivers to remove screws.
XDA IIs LCD replacement
I have dismantled a XDA IIs, but am not sure how to get the LCD out of the front cover, there seems to be some plastic welds holding the front cover together?
Can any one assist please?
I will have a go at explaining
ok try to explain
1. take off battery
2. unscrew the four torx4/torx5 screws including the one under warning label but no need to touch the phone idenity label
3. unscrew the two side screws located near top
4. take out pen and any card in device
5. carefully remove back (now you will be able to see the circuit board)
6. looking at the phone lcd down so you see the circuit board remove screws (small philips/ crossheads silver in color)
1.top left
2. top right
3. midle right near small cable
now you should be able to move the circuit board (do not force apart)
the lcd cable and keyboard cable are attached to the underside of the board
1. slide the phone 50% open (but keep phone lcd face down so you are look at the board phone the (keyboad being closest to you than main speaker))
2. carefully lift left side of board (you should see the cables) using a small screwdriver Very Carefully pry them off the board (the should pop off with no force needed)
3. slide phone fully open and now you are able to see all 4 torx screws that hold the front part of the phone on just under the circuit boad
* bottom 2 are in small cut out boxes just under to circuit board you may need to slide the front up or down to align with the screws
*the top 2 you should have notice when you fully opened the phone in normal use and looked at the back of the lcd at top behind speaker
4. the front surround and lcd and buttons will come off carefully remove from bottom near the navigation buttons
5. the phone should now be able to split into the two halfs with cables
6. you should be able to unscrew the the lcd and the cable 2 top 2 bottom for lcd but you have to also remove the button ribbon cable
replace lcd and reverse process
*the lcd cable needed to be pushed into the socket on the underside of the circuit board (this can be tricky take ur time)
*the keyboard cable is simular to the lcd cable but it has a smaller socket that it clips into
maybe this is a quick help I should have looked about a bit maybe someone done it better with pictures than me hey it only took 10mins
BlueDragon747 said:
ok try to explain
1. take off battery
2. unscrew the four torx4/torx5 screws including the one under warning label but no need to touch the phone idenity label
3. unscrew the two side screws located near top
4. take out pen and any card in device
5. carefully remove back (now you will be able to see the circuit board)
6. looking at the phone lcd down so you see the circuit board remove screws (small philips/ crossheads silver in color)
1.top left
2. top right
3. midle right near small cable
now you should be able to move the circuit board (do not force apart)
the lcd cable and keyboard cable are attached to the underside of the board
1. slide the phone 50% open (but keep phone lcd face down so you are look at the board phone the (keyboad being closest to you than main speaker))
2. carefully lift left side of board (you should see the cables) using a small screwdriver Very Carefully pry them off the board (the should pop off with no force needed)
3. slide phone fully open and now you are able to see all 4 torx screws that hold the front part of the phone on just under the circuit boad
* bottom 2 are in small cut out boxes just under to circuit board you may need to slide the front up or down to align with the screws
*the top 2 you should have notice when you fully opened the phone in normal use and looked at the back of the lcd at top behind speaker
4. the front surround and lcd and buttons will come off carefully remove from bottom near the navigation buttons
5. the phone should now be able to split into the two halfs with cables
6. you should be able to unscrew the the lcd and the cable 2 top 2 bottom for lcd but you have to also remove the button ribbon cable
replace lcd and reverse process
*the lcd cable needed to be pushed into the socket on the underside of the circuit board (this can be tricky take ur time)
*the keyboard cable is simular to the lcd cable but it has a smaller socket that it clips into
maybe this is a quick help I should have looked about a bit maybe someone done it better with pictures than me hey it only took 10mins
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
these instructions i will cherish , cheers for the detailed breakdown...
Please help me how to seperate the LCD and touchscreen?
I bought the BA with a broken touchscreen, the LCD is fine, I got a new touchscreen and disassemble it, I don't know how to do next, can anyone tell me how to seperate the LCD and touchscreen? and how to unplug and plug the touchscreen cable? Thank you very much!!
i have detailed instructions PDF with pictures.
drop me an email
lcd instructions
try www.htclcd.com for lcd replacement instructions
blue angel
could you send me that pdf file please (instructions PDF with pictures xdaIIs touch replacement)
thanks
Related
Hi
I have one functional XDA with leaked LCD and one non-functional XDA with OK LCD. I need to take out the working LCD from one phone and put in the second phone. Does anyone have instructions to do that?
Thanks
Harmeet
Did it finally!
Here is the procedure (as I remember). Do at your own risk -
1) - Take out the four screws from back and remove the back.
2) - Take out the two screws from the circuit board (one is visible, other is hidden below a sticker saying "VOID" or something like that)
3) - Now take out the 3 ribbons. Be careful, the clips are delicate. First, pull the plastic clip toward the ribbon (parallel to the board) to loosen the grip. Then, take out the ribbon. Repeat for all three.
4) - Now, take out 4 screws to free the LCD/Touch panel assembly. The touch panel and LCD are glued together. Just pull them gently apart. Do it carefully though.
5) - Now, replace the broken LCD /Touch Panel with new one
6) - Put the Humpty Dumpty together again
Have fun replacing the LCD / Touch Panel.
Harmeet
Hi Guys
My name is Luis and I live in Costa Rica. I have a HTC Jade which recently got the LCD screen broken . I really really appreciate if you can name me an Accesories Store located in USA to buy the screen. Since I live in Costa Rica it seems to be the logical place to import. HK is a little bit far from us!
Thank you in advance.
Brando ships worldwide and is pretty reliable. Why not use them?
On ebay.com I found some offers as well, some for about 33USD, like half price as from Brando Shop...
How to Dismantle
Hi,
I also have a broken lcd. I ordered a replacement from brando. Is there a service manual or dismantling guide that shows how to replace the LCD?
TIA
Scary Procedure
Hello! My touch screen is scratched and I bought another one to replace it. Well, it isn't so easy and after I dismantled the device, I decided not to replace it and wait for some tips because no documentation exists. No manual included with the package and no info on the net. (there are some youtube videos for other phones)
After you open the device, you end up with your phone in 3 parts. The Touch screen has a black marquee surrounding it witch I don't know how to remove, and it is connected with the main board with a very very thin wire witch I'm afraid to pull and I'm not sure if I have to pull it or do something else to remove it from the main board. Tips are welcome. Thank you!
since I am not allowed to post links, try following :
use google and type jade lcd dismantling. among pages you will see mikechannon.net, go there and find HTC JADE, click on it and here you are
yianp said:
Hello! My touch screen is scratched and I bought another one to replace it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
where did you find the replacement?
Marcell-o said:
where did you find the replacement?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought one from ebay. Unfortunately no instructions with the package
Kajmaj said:
since I am not allowed to post links, try following :
use google and type jade lcd dismantling. among pages you will see mikechannon.net, go there and find HTC JADE, click on it and here you are
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Kajmaj THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!
yianp said:
I bought one from ebay. Unfortunately no instructions with the package
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i've tried to open the device.
It's not so hard:
AT OWN RISC!!!
Unscrew the 4 screws, click it slightly open.
now you can see on 1 side a small flatcable for the digitizer, unlock it by swapping the behind of the connector. Unplug it.
Flip the PCB and unplug the 2 connectors for the screen and buttons.
Now you can unscrew 2 litle screws at the buttons.
remove the buttons carefully.
Now you can slightly press on the back of the old digitizer untill it loosses.
Place the new one, carefully press on the glue-parts untill you think it is tight enough.
Now read this post backwards to put it all together again.
If you're ready, push the on button.
When it asks for the pincode press : volume up + centerbutton to calibrate.
Et voila.
AT OWN RISC!!!
i'm not responsible for any damage.
Scratched external screen
Hi Marcell-o! I also managed to open it. But the problem is at the last step. the external screen has some kind of black "rubber" that holds it in place. that's where I don't know what to do. I attached a pic to see what I mean.
Thanks for your reply!
yianp said:
Hi Marcell-o! I also managed to open it. But the problem is at the last step. the external screen has some kind of black "rubber" that holds it in place. that's where I don't know what to do. I attached a pic to see what I mean.
Thanks for your reply!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can leave it there.
You have to push at the back of the digitizer.
it's verry tight glued so you have to be patient and careful that you do not break the housing.
The rubber you talk about is meant to leave dust out of there.
i placed my new one just now and it works great.
I made some pictures of the repair and i'll post them tomorrow if i don't forget.
Pictures of the repair
Here are some pictures with some info.
And again:
AT YOURE OWN RISC, I'M NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE!!
before the repair it was like this.
As you can see, it was in a very bad shape.
you can see what i use the most.
The "X" at the upper right corner and the IE scrollbar (yeah thats right, i use Explorer )
When you managed to open the cover you can see at the right side that there is a very small flatcable. (this is the Digitizer cable)
You can open the connector by flipping the handle to vertical.
Use tweezers to unplug it.
Now you can flip the mainboard. As you can see there are 2 more flatcables unplug them with tweezers.
by the way: #1 is for the screen and #2 is for the buttons
Place the mainboard on a safe place so it can't be harmed.
Now the hard part!
Unscrew the 2 very small screws on the red spots and save them on a place where you can find them back again (I lost one and it took a half an hour to find it back on the floor with a magnet whehe)
Now the screen and the button-PCB is ready to take apart from the casing. A bit of the flatcable is glued so be patient.
When you managed to loosen the screen and buttons, place this part at a safe place so it can't be harmed.
Now this is tricky.
Now you have only a front casing with the digitizer.
It's very tight glued so you have to press at the back of the digitizer to loosen it. Be patient, you can break the casing of your device.
Also take care that you do not break the flatcable of the old digitizer because you have to place the cable of the new one at the same way, take a look at the old one when you placed it apart from the casing.
You have to flip the cable like this picture when you placed the new one in the casing.
when you did this, you can replace a little cushion which you had to remove from the flatcable from the old digitizer.
Now replace the screen and button part. replug the 2 flatcables, place the mainboard its place, replug the small flatcable of the digitizer (be sure that the handle is vertical when you do this. When the cable is plugged, place the handle horizontal.
Replace the backcover, the 4 screws, simcard and the memorycard and batterycover.
Press the on button.
Et voila!
As good as new :
The only issue is, that we do not have a dust free environment like HTC has.
The result:
Don't forget to calibrate
All the pictures are clickable.
Sorry for my bad English
And now one more beer and a long sleep
Thanks!
Thank you Marcello! I will give it one more try.
Hi Marcell-o your guide looks solid and the pics look nice...
You are from the Netherlands, where did you get your screen? I am from Belgium, that's why I am asking...
I have two problems with my Jade:
1) My screen is all scratched up, and I need to replace it, so for this only the upper part is needed, right?
2) A few weeks ago when I was in the bathroom and took the phone with me there is since a square "oily" stain in the middle of the screen. I read elsewhere that it's due to the humid enviroment, so I guess I need to replace the LCD part too?
I saw that the screws beneath the backcover are Torx, but what number Torx is it exactly, and is that same Torx used for the screws on the mailboard of the phone?
Thanks in advance for any answers!
Greetz
I bought it here: http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260513873708
verry good price!
I'm sorry, i do not know the torx number i was just happy to have the right one.
What you need for the scratched screen is indeed the touchpart(digitizer)
The screws inside(for the buttons/screen) are just the four points(?)(kruisschroef) The mainboard is clicked.
Can you make a picture of the "oil" stain maybe it's also solved with the digitizer replacement.
Hi Guys,
just this morning I've managed to replace a digitizer in my Jade, as it was punctured by some pointy child's teeth . A bit unlucky though, cause I couldn't find this thread before (silly me !) as to get some instructions how to do that.
I'd like to add some tips to Marcell-o's guide:
1. The tools you need are:
TORX T6 screwdriver for 4 outside screws
Philips PH0 (or 00) screwdriver for 2 inside (button panel) screws
Thin Tweezers for replacing flat cables.
Office/Swiss knife for replacing Digitizer itself
2. To prevent any damage to your front cover, I would recommend to 'cut-off' the Digitizer from the inside, before pushing it out. I used a thin Swiss knife for this and started from the top corners, slowly going towards the bottom. This also left all (or most) of the glue at the case side so there was no need to apply additional glueing.
See attached Photo
[Sorry for adding like that, but I'm not allowed to add link as a new user]
3. To make your Jade scratch-proof as well as responding better to your fingers, I'd recommend the Advanced Screen Protector from ProPorta.com. It's nothing close to cheap crap from e-bay as 3 screens for a quid and literally increases touch sensitivity rather than decrease.
Good luck!
Catalan said:
Hi Guys
My name is Luis and I live in Costa Rica. I have a HTC Jade which recently got the LCD screen broken . I really really appreciate if you can name me an Accesories Store located in USA to buy the screen. Since I live in Costa Rica it seems to be the logical place to import. HK is a little bit far from us!
Thank you in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
would you sell it as is ? Pm me/
zubenelgenubi said:
Hi,
I also have a broken lcd. I ordered a replacement from brando. Is there a service manual or dismantling guide that shows how to replace the LCD?
TIA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
and would you also ?
So as many people here know, the rear camera is a sore point on the Transformer Prime, in that it's known to go bad early and often. Not to beat a dead horse, here's how we fix the situation:
Replacing the rear camera module:
Yes it seems logical that this would be all you would need, but I've just confirmed myself that in fact it is only the camera module with a problem. The main issue with the fix is FINDING a good camera. I was a bit discouraged on my first attempt as I bought a rear camera on ebay listed as "working" from a parted out Transformer Prime only to go to the hassle of installing it and it not working. I can't say I was surprised, but after trying to find one for so long I took the chance. Upon recieving my refund, I purchased another rear webcam that surprisingly also surfaced. The seller for this second camera had TONS of feedback, and mostly products with the word "foxconn" in the title, indicating this guy seems to have a line on foxconn surplus parts, which for us is awesome. The camera I received appears to be brand new and fired up immediately! Not trying to push a particular seller but since many people are probably looking for this part, I'll post the link http://www.ebay.com/itm/Asus-Eee-Pa...?pt=US_Tablet_Accessories&hash=item416a33f1f9. The seller is skyline27 and he appears to have one left right now (I bought the second). NOW, enough theory, onto the howto.
HOWTO (the good stuff)
0. Turn off Tablet (thanks whycali)
1. Remove screen as instructed in other disassembly threads (wifi fix threads, etc) Advice for this includes working from the bottom first, being vary carefly to NEVER use the pry tool at either the latch holes or the bottom port, as these very thin pieces of aluminum will bend. Get your tool in (heh heh) to the left or right of these "holes" in the case, then slide the tool sideways past them to avoid prying outwards. Get the entire bottom free, then slowly work up the sides with your plastic tools/credit card. When you get to the top, try gently pulling the screen "Down" or the port. You can also pull up like the rest, but when I disassembled I saw what looked like "hooks" that made me want to slide the top out last by pulling it towards the dock port.
1.2 (I forgot) Flip switch on right side of motherboard (top board) that will disconnect power to the motherboard before disconnecting the battery. Don't forget to switch it back when finished, or it won't turn on. (thanks whycali)
1.5 (I forgot) unscrew and remove flash and microphone at top
2. You can either disconnect the screen ribbon cable from the motherboard *top board* (makes your life easier) or simply set the screen upside down, rotated 90, and to the left of the opened prime. This allows the cables to sit fairly easily, though since you'll be removing the motherboard anyways it may be easier to unplug
3. Unscrew 8 battery screws, carefully unplug wide connector (I used precision flathead to the left and right of plug as to not 'yank'). Set battery aside.
4. Be sure every cable is unplugged from the Motherboard. This includes a small battery on the left side, the power button/volume cable top left, as well as the speaker cable on the right side.
5. Remove all motherboard screws. Be sure you get them all, you don't want to snap the motherboard in half in a minute because we'll be pulling against a little adhesive.
6. Be careful. REMOVE MOTHERBOARD This is the step you're most likely to have an issue, but it's still really easy. Time to remove the motherboard. This is easy if you know what to expect.
6a Both cameras are slightly adhesived into their holes, also plugged to back of motherboard. You can either try and pull these with the mobo, or let them stay where they are and pull them out later (probably easier for beginners)
6b There is a thermal pad about 1/3 away from the left where the CPU is. It is a bit adhesive, but not too much
6c MOST IMPORTANT - The motherboard is sort of "sandwiched" into the ports on the sides. That is, it doesn't want to pull straight up and out, the hdmi and headphone jacks are in the way. I believe it's very easy to break the HDMI and/or headphone jack here, yet I haven't yet. 2 ways to approach, one is to pull the side of the tablet outward slightly at the headphone jack to slide it up, allowing you to lift that side of the board, then sliding to the right to clear the hdmi. The second method which I prefer, is pulling up on the mobo from the center, causing the outer edges to pull inward slightly as the board flexes a bit. Choose whichever you prefer
7. Replace the camera. If you're this far along, I really shouldn't have to explain this. The front and rear sit side by side, your front is probably good, there's a piece of tape over the connectors, pull up, replace rear, make sure plugged in firmly on both, replace tape.
Installation is reverse of removal. I recommend plugging the screen ribbon (and all ribbon cables) into the motherboard before reinstalling it, as the connectors are on the bottom of the board and very difficult to get at once installed in the prime. Again, flex the motherboard or prime slightly to clear the ports going back in. Be sure cameras are attached to the motherboard, when installing, be sure to double check one last time that they're still plugged into the board before putting the board down and letting the cameras sit in their plastic holders. And don't forget that internal power switch on the right side of the motherboard.
FWIW, and I'm sure many will disagree with me, but I typically check everything before snapping the screen back up by booting it up with a few sheets of paper between the screen and internals as an extra safety insulator. Check screen, touch screen, both cameras, SD card, speaker, then I snap it shut.
If anyone really needs pictures I think I have a few, though not really specifically of what I was doing, but I could highlight/circle the pics I have if anyone gets stuck.
I really hope I can help others get a working camera who can't/won't RMA for the issue. Now time to UNLOCK MUAHAHAHA!!!
One thing I mostly remember to do when I plan to disassemble the ribbon cables is to turn off the internal power switch first.
I know this is an older thread but does anybody know where to get a new camera. The one that is linked to in the above post is no longer available. Thanks
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk 2
I have been replacing the glass screen on my S3 it came off nicely and the lcd if fine. Then i realised i had cut through the cable for the menu and return button. I see there are replacemnt on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Samsung-G...K_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item2a1ebb05f7
I have not put the new glass screen on yet
can i repair thiss ? and should i keep the screen off till i can ?
please help time is an issue
Check if the part you see on ebay can be removed from the screen you have. On the SII, this part was sandwiched between the plastic mounting and the screen - I smashed my screen trying to separate the two.
it was attached to the glass screen then went into the body of the phone, I have already removed the glass screen to replace it but cut through the cable. I could attach a new one between the phone and the glass. screen but unsure how i would get the rest of it through the phone.
You could always just install a ROM with on-screen buttons instead.
I gave up and put the new screen on t he buttons for menu and back don't work. As far as I van see he ribbon was attached to the back of the LCD and I ws not removing that. So I'll have to get a new expensive screen replacement . Pity cos the rest is perfect. Can I get these buttons or gestures on my phone without a new Rom ?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1808882
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
Update. Ok so I got my screen replaced. But they gave me the old one attached to the case-chasse. I had sent for a replacement button Cable like that one above. I heated it up carefully and removed the g lass. With some very delicate surgery I was able to replaced.fix the ribbon. It worked. I replaced the adhesive strip and now I have a spare screen that works well. I used lens cleaner and a cloth you get with a screen protector. There is some very slight dust but unnoticeable in use. I should probably sell it but not sure how to describe it on eBay . Could I sell it as home refurbished.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
If yo need to replace your menu cable. First unplug the cable from the gap in the back of the plate. Use small a littlenpressure to lift the chip near it of the silver insulating tape beneath. Then I pulled out the ld cable and gently uwhed the new one the right way up through the gap at the front with a blunt pin. You may need small non tooth forceps to pull it through and push new nd or ribbon into female connector. Remove sticky tape on button and apply to clean screen.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
felixthecat said:
If yo need to replace your menu cable. First unplug the cable from the gap in the back of the plate. Use small a littlenpressure to lift the chip near it of the silver insulating tape beneath. Then I pulled out the ld cable and gently uwhed the new one the right way up through the gap at the front with a blunt pin. You may need small non tooth forceps to pull it through and push new nd or ribbon into female connector. Remove sticky tape on button and apply to clean screen.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That actually worked with the LCD still glued to the frame? I would think the LEDs themselves would break while pushing it through. Anyone else try this or have another method?
Release the connector
insanity2 said:
That actually worked with the LCD still glued to the frame? I would think the LEDs themselves would break while pushing it through. Anyone else try this or have another method?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi , how do i release the connection in the connector and the cable ? , should i lift it up but in what direction ?.
Thanks
---------- Post added at 09:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:56 PM ----------
felixthecat said:
Update. Ok so I got my screen replaced. But they gave me the old one attached to the case-chasse. I had sent for a replacement button Cable like that one above. I heated it up carefully and removed the g lass. With some very delicate surgery I was able to replaced.fix the ribbon. It worked. I replaced the adhesive strip and now I have a spare screen that works well. I used lens cleaner and a cloth you get with a screen protector. There is some very slight dust but unnoticeable in use. I should probably sell it but not sure how to describe it on eBay . Could I sell it as home refurbished.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi , how did you replace this cable ? how did i release the connection from the socket ?
Thanks
S3 Flex ribbon cable replacement success
Do a Youtube search for "Galaxy S3 menu return flex cable repair 2013 May 3" for a little more info on the general idea behind the repair. Below is what I did to get it to work.
I got this fix to work successfully with part V1.0 even though the original was V3.0. I heated up a mini flathead screwdriver, and used it like a scraper to remove enough plastic to open the channel on the left side of the recess (looking at the phone from the front). I bent 2 pins at about a 90 degree angle and gently slid them in on the backside(inside) of the phone. They should be alongside the ribbon cable on either side. GENTLY pull them down to provide the last bit of leverage to slide out the old cable. New one wriggled in same way with a little help from mini pliers/tweezers to pull it the rest of the way through. Wanted to do a video, but not really set up for it. Got pics though.
Cheers!
Hello everyone
The power button of my European Samsung Galaxy S2 broke off when taking out my motherboard. I ordered and received a new power button and am willing to solder it back on, just as they did in this video: ** or in this video for the US version: ** (the motherboards look different for both though, I've got a European one)
Now, the problem is this: there are three connection I need to solder on and despite them being tiny, I'm actually managing well, however only for the middle connection! For some reason, the solder does not stick to the other terminals after trying several times for hours.. the two outer terminals also have a brownish color, unlike the white/silver color of the middle terminal, perhaps that's the reason the solder does not stick? is there rust?? I really have no idea what to do... I am pretty sure there are supposed to be three connection, but really I can only solder the middle one.
Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated!
EDIT: removed the links, but they're the first and fourth videos when searching "samsung galaxy s2 power button replacement" on youtube.
Too much heat applied to the circuit board for too long will.....
A) burn the solder points away
B) cause heat damage to other components
My advice would be......
A) make sure the solder you are using has a flux core (the flux will help to 'clean' the solder points during soldering)
B) VERY VERY GENTLY use a jewellers screwdriver or other pointed tool to attempt to remove the brown discoloration on the solder point.....too much pressure will remove the solder point entirely.....so be careful......
This might be my S2, or it might be my W...but it's definitely CM
keithross39 said:
Too much heat applied to the circuit board for too long will.....
A) burn the solder points away
B) cause heat damage to other components
My advice would be......
A) make sure the solder you are using has a flux core (the flux will help to 'clean' the solder points during soldering)
B) VERY VERY GENTLY use a jewellers screwdriver or other pointed tool to attempt to remove the brown discoloration on the solder point.....too much pressure will remove the solder point entirely.....so be careful......
This might be my S2, or it might be my W...but it's definitely CM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use flux core solder, but i have also used additional flux on the terminals, none of it works :/
I've tried scratching off the brown layer with a toothpick, in case it was rust, but it didn't get off.
I still haven't identified why the outer terminals are brown, is it the EU model or is there really some layer of rust?
EthemD said:
I use flux core solder, but i have also used additional flux on the terminals, none of it works :/
I've tried scratching off the brown layer with a toothpick, in case it was rust, but it didn't get off.
I still haven't identified why the outer terminals are brown, is it the EU model or is there really some layer of rust?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dunno, if you think you have applied flux correctly then try to clean the three points with a toothbrush and alcohol, and a bit of demineralized water. If that works, try soldering again. Otherwise, check you're soldering the right points
EDIT: What's more, there shouldn't be any oxide /rust, since I assume you desoldered/soldered all the points at the same time. Double check you're soldering the right spot, bro
Inviato dal mio GT-I9100
Thank you for the replies!
I have been stuck with this problem for quite some time now, my first replacement button got broken so I ordered a new one and I've been trying to solder it again and again and it still does not work.....
Then today I did something that revealed the underlying problem!
I decided to have a look at my old broken power button. The three power button contact tips still had some solder on their tips.... HOWEVER the left and right contacts (whose corresponding joints on the board were not working as described) appeared to have flat ends... which I found weird.... so I went with my soldering iron on them and tadaaa... the solder melted and two metal stripes appeared on my table, their back having the exact same rusty color as the two dis-functional contacts on the board! These metal stripes are supposed to be on the logic board in place of the contacts, but as the old power button had been removed by force, they ripped or pulled these two stripes off the board.
See the two photos of them (on the first one you see the back of these, and on the second one i turned them over and put them in their correct position at the joints)
As you can see they are tiny and really difficult to handle. I had difficulties placing them on the board with tweezers, they are very light and got sort of stuck to the tips of the tweezers. Now, I don't know how these circuit boards are built... were these stripes part of a thin layer, from which they got teared off, or were they just glued on the layer below? What lies below a layer of metal contact on a logic board? Any help is appreciated a lot :/
Ok....looking at the pictures, and reading your description of what happened, it looks like the solder points have become detached from the board. This is going to be really difficult to repair.
You have to find some way to trace the circuit path from the button contacts to the next available inline solder point, and then find a way to bridge the break. You can attempt this in one of two ways.
1) solder a VERY fine wire to one of the contacts on the button, then solder the other end to the next solder point along the circuit path....then repeat for the other contact.
2) some years ago, I owned a bottle of electrically conductive paint (called liquid solder I think)
You paint it onto the board over the brown areas that are present, then while it is still wet, replace the button and extend the paint track so that it reaches the button contacts.
In theory this should bridge the gap from where the (now missing) solder point met the circuit board to the button contacts......
Option 2 would be the easier option, but unless you can secure the button so that the contacts don't move, it'll turn into a temporary fix as any movement is likely to cause the paint to crack and lose it's conductivity........
Check this link for solder paint...
http://mobile.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=36275
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Thank you Keith Ross, for the effort to help me,
I have watched a video on youtube, showing how PCB's ar manufactured ("How It's Made: Circuit Boards"), in order to come up with more ideas.
After watching that, I decided to scratch a bit more around and on the faulty terminals, in hope that there will be a conducting layer... however using my DMM I could not detect any continuity on or along the edges of these terminals. Besides that, I have tried again and again to get the solder to stick to those surfaces... but it still didn't work.
Using any adhesive or connecting to a different terminal on the logic board is a bit of a big step at the moment, so I decided to give it to a technician (not from samsung) to look at it. Hopefully he will find a way to mend it back. :/
Really disappointed and surprised that this could happen so easily on the logic board of a SGS2. I'm guessing it's the bad material quality samsung has. :/
While my phone is away, I'll be looking at how to turn on recover mode on my phone without a power button, I already read about how to turn it on without a power button...
How did it go? Did you get a repair?
About finding alternatives to a physical power button........it *can* be done, but I'd ALWAYS advise having a functioning button as backup. You can download this.... https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.siriusapplications.quickboot
and use it to reboot into (amongst other things) recovery, but then you will have to find a compatible 'touch' CWM.......
And to be honest......that reboot app is only going to be of any use if you can access it from a normally booting phone......if you're stuck in bootloop, you're stuffed......
At the end of the day, the only REAL option is to get that button fixed.......
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