Hello everyone
The power button of my European Samsung Galaxy S2 broke off when taking out my motherboard. I ordered and received a new power button and am willing to solder it back on, just as they did in this video: ** or in this video for the US version: ** (the motherboards look different for both though, I've got a European one)
Now, the problem is this: there are three connection I need to solder on and despite them being tiny, I'm actually managing well, however only for the middle connection! For some reason, the solder does not stick to the other terminals after trying several times for hours.. the two outer terminals also have a brownish color, unlike the white/silver color of the middle terminal, perhaps that's the reason the solder does not stick? is there rust?? I really have no idea what to do... I am pretty sure there are supposed to be three connection, but really I can only solder the middle one.
Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated!
EDIT: removed the links, but they're the first and fourth videos when searching "samsung galaxy s2 power button replacement" on youtube.
Too much heat applied to the circuit board for too long will.....
A) burn the solder points away
B) cause heat damage to other components
My advice would be......
A) make sure the solder you are using has a flux core (the flux will help to 'clean' the solder points during soldering)
B) VERY VERY GENTLY use a jewellers screwdriver or other pointed tool to attempt to remove the brown discoloration on the solder point.....too much pressure will remove the solder point entirely.....so be careful......
This might be my S2, or it might be my W...but it's definitely CM
keithross39 said:
Too much heat applied to the circuit board for too long will.....
A) burn the solder points away
B) cause heat damage to other components
My advice would be......
A) make sure the solder you are using has a flux core (the flux will help to 'clean' the solder points during soldering)
B) VERY VERY GENTLY use a jewellers screwdriver or other pointed tool to attempt to remove the brown discoloration on the solder point.....too much pressure will remove the solder point entirely.....so be careful......
This might be my S2, or it might be my W...but it's definitely CM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use flux core solder, but i have also used additional flux on the terminals, none of it works :/
I've tried scratching off the brown layer with a toothpick, in case it was rust, but it didn't get off.
I still haven't identified why the outer terminals are brown, is it the EU model or is there really some layer of rust?
EthemD said:
I use flux core solder, but i have also used additional flux on the terminals, none of it works :/
I've tried scratching off the brown layer with a toothpick, in case it was rust, but it didn't get off.
I still haven't identified why the outer terminals are brown, is it the EU model or is there really some layer of rust?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dunno, if you think you have applied flux correctly then try to clean the three points with a toothbrush and alcohol, and a bit of demineralized water. If that works, try soldering again. Otherwise, check you're soldering the right points
EDIT: What's more, there shouldn't be any oxide /rust, since I assume you desoldered/soldered all the points at the same time. Double check you're soldering the right spot, bro
Inviato dal mio GT-I9100
Thank you for the replies!
I have been stuck with this problem for quite some time now, my first replacement button got broken so I ordered a new one and I've been trying to solder it again and again and it still does not work.....
Then today I did something that revealed the underlying problem!
I decided to have a look at my old broken power button. The three power button contact tips still had some solder on their tips.... HOWEVER the left and right contacts (whose corresponding joints on the board were not working as described) appeared to have flat ends... which I found weird.... so I went with my soldering iron on them and tadaaa... the solder melted and two metal stripes appeared on my table, their back having the exact same rusty color as the two dis-functional contacts on the board! These metal stripes are supposed to be on the logic board in place of the contacts, but as the old power button had been removed by force, they ripped or pulled these two stripes off the board.
See the two photos of them (on the first one you see the back of these, and on the second one i turned them over and put them in their correct position at the joints)
As you can see they are tiny and really difficult to handle. I had difficulties placing them on the board with tweezers, they are very light and got sort of stuck to the tips of the tweezers. Now, I don't know how these circuit boards are built... were these stripes part of a thin layer, from which they got teared off, or were they just glued on the layer below? What lies below a layer of metal contact on a logic board? Any help is appreciated a lot :/
Ok....looking at the pictures, and reading your description of what happened, it looks like the solder points have become detached from the board. This is going to be really difficult to repair.
You have to find some way to trace the circuit path from the button contacts to the next available inline solder point, and then find a way to bridge the break. You can attempt this in one of two ways.
1) solder a VERY fine wire to one of the contacts on the button, then solder the other end to the next solder point along the circuit path....then repeat for the other contact.
2) some years ago, I owned a bottle of electrically conductive paint (called liquid solder I think)
You paint it onto the board over the brown areas that are present, then while it is still wet, replace the button and extend the paint track so that it reaches the button contacts.
In theory this should bridge the gap from where the (now missing) solder point met the circuit board to the button contacts......
Option 2 would be the easier option, but unless you can secure the button so that the contacts don't move, it'll turn into a temporary fix as any movement is likely to cause the paint to crack and lose it's conductivity........
Check this link for solder paint...
http://mobile.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=36275
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Thank you Keith Ross, for the effort to help me,
I have watched a video on youtube, showing how PCB's ar manufactured ("How It's Made: Circuit Boards"), in order to come up with more ideas.
After watching that, I decided to scratch a bit more around and on the faulty terminals, in hope that there will be a conducting layer... however using my DMM I could not detect any continuity on or along the edges of these terminals. Besides that, I have tried again and again to get the solder to stick to those surfaces... but it still didn't work.
Using any adhesive or connecting to a different terminal on the logic board is a bit of a big step at the moment, so I decided to give it to a technician (not from samsung) to look at it. Hopefully he will find a way to mend it back. :/
Really disappointed and surprised that this could happen so easily on the logic board of a SGS2. I'm guessing it's the bad material quality samsung has. :/
While my phone is away, I'll be looking at how to turn on recover mode on my phone without a power button, I already read about how to turn it on without a power button...
How did it go? Did you get a repair?
About finding alternatives to a physical power button........it *can* be done, but I'd ALWAYS advise having a functioning button as backup. You can download this.... https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.siriusapplications.quickboot
and use it to reboot into (amongst other things) recovery, but then you will have to find a compatible 'touch' CWM.......
And to be honest......that reboot app is only going to be of any use if you can access it from a normally booting phone......if you're stuck in bootloop, you're stuffed......
At the end of the day, the only REAL option is to get that button fixed.......
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Related
Before we were so rudely interrupted in the original thread, we were discussing the G1 hardware keyboard replacements. Please folks, if you must flame each other do it via PMs to avoid locking legitimate threads.
I've been able to find some inexpensive after market replacements on eBay, but still am not sure how difficult it is to actually do that. All the sites I've been able to find on the subject only provide time-lapse dis-assembly instructions of the entire phone. If anyone has done the replacement themselves, I'd greatly appreciate pointers on how to keep my phone operational after I put it back together.
I replaced the white keyboard in my Dream with a black one. It was a scary operation as it takes a bit of force to dismantle. I accidently pulled my antenna off and disconnected a flylead. ment my phone had no signal at all. later when i got home (did it in work ) i took it apart again and fixed it.
Take your time and have patience, alot of it is plastic and clipped together so requires a bit of force.
May I ask what is wrong with the keys on the bronze one? I did a quick skim of the old post and gather that you can't see the keys in daylight but I don't get why?
I'm just genuinely interested, I have a black G1 so never had such a problem.
brummiesteven said:
May I ask what is wrong with the keys on the bronze one? I did a quick skim of the old post and gather that you can't see the keys in daylight but I don't get why?
I'm just genuinely interested, I have a black G1 so never had such a problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the combination of silver keys with light-silver backlight that make the lettering almost impossible to see in day light conditions. I'd take a picture if I had a camera with me today. Whoever came up with that color combination should be fired. Or at least made to stare at it every day for the next year. I have to tilt the keyboard at a weird angle just to distinguish the letters. From what I understand the white G1s suffer from the same problem.
The "Backlight Off" app definitely helps as it lets you toggle the backlight with a keyboard shortcut. I'm looking for a more hardware solution though.
I've been thinking about changing keyboards and housings too. But from what ppl are saying it seems to be pretty exhaustive. Do any of you guys have the service manual? I DL'ed it from somewhere and it goes through each step of disassembly and also shows assembly. I'm sure it would help out to give an idea of what you need. But like I said, even having read the service manual, it's still quite scary.
A full housing from my understanding is a bitc(....doing the KB I can see why. The LCD portions look ridiculously complex in comparison to other phones.
That said if you have the proper tools , good organization or memory , steady hands and patience really shouldnt be "that" tough to do the keyboard.
Heres the thing. Its really not that hard to unscrew things etc...but the piece you need to move in order to get proper access to the KB has 2 ribbons that are a PAIN IN THE ASS to take off and put back properly. Theres so little room for error.If youve never worked with ribbons before BE CAREFUL.
I will say G1 is pretty unique in how its put together , I swear they were determined to make it as complicated as possible
The really pain in the ass part is that the online manual/guide will merely tell you something like "remove part A" but no explanation how. Theres also 2 screws I swear it glossed over leading to frustration when I did the trackball/front keys.
Torx 5 and really good mini screw driver are mandatory.
Nice lil workstation is really helpful..(masking tape ,towel , table lamp or LED headlamp , vitamin/pill cases etc)
Im no mechanical engineer but Ive opened up damn near everything Ive ever owned at some point. Took me a solid 3 hours from start to finish. With major time spent on organizing the screws pieces and those damn ribbons.
I will say the black KB makes a HUGE difference. Black key on the front arent necessary but do look better and add much needed contrast.
KOF33 said:
I will say the black KB makes a HUGE difference. Black key on the front arent necessary but do look better and add much needed contrast.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pics, or it didn't happen
Thanks for the tips!
Chahk said:
Pics, or it didn't happen
Thanks for the tips!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As you can see I also replaced the trackball with a glowing white one.
lol at the trackball
doing a case swap is only bad the first time LMAO. I learned a lot, like for example the brass inserts that the screws go into...are not pre-installed. You must CUT Them out of the old housing and HAMMER them into the new oneBut in the end, it turned out very nice.
As far as just replacing the keyboard, it isnt too bad actually once you know what screws hold what down!
-Remove the 6 torx screws for the back housing
-GENTLY pry open the TOP of the casing with a plastic case tool, work your way down to the bottom of the housing. The bottom is a PITA to remove. I usually get it by rocking it gently back and forth
-remove the long and short coax leads from the motherboard side. swing them out of the way
-peel back the tape and GENTLY pull the bottom connector (mouthpiece module) from the motherboard.
-peel back more tape and lift the latch for the keyboard connector (the one on the side)
-Peel the camera module up SLOWLY (it is double side taped down) as well as the imei card. The cam cable is routed under it, lift it all as a unit. When you get to the motherboard, STOP
-Now, gently twist the whole camera and motherboard unit as a whole until it is free of the latch on the side. Gently lift the camera end exposing the 2 small ribbon connectors on the bottom.
-Peel back the tape and GENTLY lift the ribbon connectors out of the board. Place the motherboard/camera unit to the side for now.
-Remove all the black and silver screws for the metal piece. The lcd should stay in place as the mouthpiece plastics kinda hold it for you, but you should still support it to keep from hurting the connections.
-Viola, keyboard access. Remember when you put it back together be sure to re-tape all the connections, else when you drop your phone one of them may pop loose.
Keeping the motherboard and camera/imea plate all as one module saves you from a very difficult connection and will help you keep everything aligned when reassembling it.
I guess the spacebar has 2 functioning buttons, (left and right) ... well my right side just konked on me, and i was wondering if a replacement keyboard off ebay will fix this, or are they just the button "covers"?
the "buttons" are just plastic nubs that make contact on a board behind it. That board would be what you need. I dont know if there are any on eBay, but I have a spare one if you want to PM me for details.
I dropped my G1 about 6 months ago and was devastated. After entirely too much research I finally got the guts to purchase a replacement digitizer and managed to install it successfully. However, in the process I managed to rip the LCD ribbon cable. I then had to order a replacement LCD screen. I've also damaged one of the black ribbon cables pretty severely causing the touchscreen to become unresponsive sporadically. I've just placed an order for one of those ribbon cables and will hopefully have that up and running soon. I've also purchased an entire new housing unit to rebuild the phone to make it look as new.
Now when I first took this thing apart I was by NO MEANS an expert or have ever done something like this before. I'm just an avid enthusiast who wanted to save a little money, feel a sense of accomplishment and to learn a few things along the way. I technically paid nearly the same amount of money it would have cost me to send the unit to HTC for repair, however i've learned everything there is to know about my phone's hardware. I know which board does what and are extremely confident about fixing ANY hardware problem in the future.
If you have the time, patience, and truly want to become confident about the workings of your phone, then I highly recommend fixing it yourself. I've bought my parts for VERY cheap off of reputable ebay buyers. You can find EVERY single piece for your phone on Ebay. My LCD has 1 dead pixel, but I guess that's the risk you take when you buy really cheap parts.
Hope this helps.
So as many people here know, the rear camera is a sore point on the Transformer Prime, in that it's known to go bad early and often. Not to beat a dead horse, here's how we fix the situation:
Replacing the rear camera module:
Yes it seems logical that this would be all you would need, but I've just confirmed myself that in fact it is only the camera module with a problem. The main issue with the fix is FINDING a good camera. I was a bit discouraged on my first attempt as I bought a rear camera on ebay listed as "working" from a parted out Transformer Prime only to go to the hassle of installing it and it not working. I can't say I was surprised, but after trying to find one for so long I took the chance. Upon recieving my refund, I purchased another rear webcam that surprisingly also surfaced. The seller for this second camera had TONS of feedback, and mostly products with the word "foxconn" in the title, indicating this guy seems to have a line on foxconn surplus parts, which for us is awesome. The camera I received appears to be brand new and fired up immediately! Not trying to push a particular seller but since many people are probably looking for this part, I'll post the link http://www.ebay.com/itm/Asus-Eee-Pa...?pt=US_Tablet_Accessories&hash=item416a33f1f9. The seller is skyline27 and he appears to have one left right now (I bought the second). NOW, enough theory, onto the howto.
HOWTO (the good stuff)
0. Turn off Tablet (thanks whycali)
1. Remove screen as instructed in other disassembly threads (wifi fix threads, etc) Advice for this includes working from the bottom first, being vary carefly to NEVER use the pry tool at either the latch holes or the bottom port, as these very thin pieces of aluminum will bend. Get your tool in (heh heh) to the left or right of these "holes" in the case, then slide the tool sideways past them to avoid prying outwards. Get the entire bottom free, then slowly work up the sides with your plastic tools/credit card. When you get to the top, try gently pulling the screen "Down" or the port. You can also pull up like the rest, but when I disassembled I saw what looked like "hooks" that made me want to slide the top out last by pulling it towards the dock port.
1.2 (I forgot) Flip switch on right side of motherboard (top board) that will disconnect power to the motherboard before disconnecting the battery. Don't forget to switch it back when finished, or it won't turn on. (thanks whycali)
1.5 (I forgot) unscrew and remove flash and microphone at top
2. You can either disconnect the screen ribbon cable from the motherboard *top board* (makes your life easier) or simply set the screen upside down, rotated 90, and to the left of the opened prime. This allows the cables to sit fairly easily, though since you'll be removing the motherboard anyways it may be easier to unplug
3. Unscrew 8 battery screws, carefully unplug wide connector (I used precision flathead to the left and right of plug as to not 'yank'). Set battery aside.
4. Be sure every cable is unplugged from the Motherboard. This includes a small battery on the left side, the power button/volume cable top left, as well as the speaker cable on the right side.
5. Remove all motherboard screws. Be sure you get them all, you don't want to snap the motherboard in half in a minute because we'll be pulling against a little adhesive.
6. Be careful. REMOVE MOTHERBOARD This is the step you're most likely to have an issue, but it's still really easy. Time to remove the motherboard. This is easy if you know what to expect.
6a Both cameras are slightly adhesived into their holes, also plugged to back of motherboard. You can either try and pull these with the mobo, or let them stay where they are and pull them out later (probably easier for beginners)
6b There is a thermal pad about 1/3 away from the left where the CPU is. It is a bit adhesive, but not too much
6c MOST IMPORTANT - The motherboard is sort of "sandwiched" into the ports on the sides. That is, it doesn't want to pull straight up and out, the hdmi and headphone jacks are in the way. I believe it's very easy to break the HDMI and/or headphone jack here, yet I haven't yet. 2 ways to approach, one is to pull the side of the tablet outward slightly at the headphone jack to slide it up, allowing you to lift that side of the board, then sliding to the right to clear the hdmi. The second method which I prefer, is pulling up on the mobo from the center, causing the outer edges to pull inward slightly as the board flexes a bit. Choose whichever you prefer
7. Replace the camera. If you're this far along, I really shouldn't have to explain this. The front and rear sit side by side, your front is probably good, there's a piece of tape over the connectors, pull up, replace rear, make sure plugged in firmly on both, replace tape.
Installation is reverse of removal. I recommend plugging the screen ribbon (and all ribbon cables) into the motherboard before reinstalling it, as the connectors are on the bottom of the board and very difficult to get at once installed in the prime. Again, flex the motherboard or prime slightly to clear the ports going back in. Be sure cameras are attached to the motherboard, when installing, be sure to double check one last time that they're still plugged into the board before putting the board down and letting the cameras sit in their plastic holders. And don't forget that internal power switch on the right side of the motherboard.
FWIW, and I'm sure many will disagree with me, but I typically check everything before snapping the screen back up by booting it up with a few sheets of paper between the screen and internals as an extra safety insulator. Check screen, touch screen, both cameras, SD card, speaker, then I snap it shut.
If anyone really needs pictures I think I have a few, though not really specifically of what I was doing, but I could highlight/circle the pics I have if anyone gets stuck.
I really hope I can help others get a working camera who can't/won't RMA for the issue. Now time to UNLOCK MUAHAHAHA!!!
One thing I mostly remember to do when I plan to disassemble the ribbon cables is to turn off the internal power switch first.
I know this is an older thread but does anybody know where to get a new camera. The one that is linked to in the above post is no longer available. Thanks
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk 2
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
The best reason for replacing both is that you won't have to worry about binding them or getting dust between them if you get them together preassembled. As to the rest, I can't say. I know we have a few people here who have done it.
So I found the adhesive strips that I need. It comes as a bulk sheet where you cut them to fit. I am going with replacing only the digitizer. Replacing the LCD screen also would male the process easier however I fear getting a replacement screen that is in worse shape or more poorly made than the original one my phone came with. I know this one has no flaws.
So I have answered my questions already. I'll post here when I done replacing the digitizer with anything that is of interest in case someone else has questions about this procedure.
Thank you for your input shrike1978. Much appreciated.
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check out my thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2189789
I did it not long ago, and was fine. However, I opted to go for the digitizer + LCD assembly, as I didn't want to have to worry about separating the digitizer from the LCD and worrying about dust.
To answer your questions:
1) It's eaiser, takes less time, and you don't have to worry about dust with replacing the digitizer + LCD assembly.
2) Replace the adhesive. I tried reusing it... and it has some flex on it. So I got some new adhesive, scraped the old stuff off, put the new one, and used a heatgun to move the screen assembly around to get it to fit right, and then pressed it down as it cooled to secure it better.
3) Ebay
4) Not sure on this one... not that I know of anyway.
5) If you get the parts from eBay, then they sometimes come with tools (Torx, philips, and a plastic separator tool).
I also linked the video that I used in my thread, so you can look at that. It's pretty straightforward and easy to do. Took me about 45 minutes to just over an hour to do everything, as I was taking my time.
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
etieseler said:
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also purchased the full assembly and was able to switch the new parts onto my Rezound. Unfortunately, the earpiece (the part you listen to when NOT on speakerphone) and the proximity sensor did not work with the new set, and I am swapping it for a replacement. However, I've been inside the unit now 5 times, and I suggest in addition to the tools supplied with the sets (t5, small phillips and separator) you also have a small flathead (helps with starting the split the unit apart and also with pulling and reattaching the vibrator motor) and a long tweezers (invaluable when trying to reconnect the ribbon cables.)
Also, reconnect the MIDDLE ribbon cable (which is slightly twisted and longer) first, then reconnect the top, and don't forget to reapply the insulating tape (been there, done that).
Watch the take apart video on Youtube repeatedly until you can do it with your eyes closed, and be careful, the red plastic does break easily, especially on the corners.
Replaced my digitizer with good success, using new adhesive. Upon first re-assembly the digitizer was popping out of the plastic bezel a bit, but everything worked great, touch, display, everything. So I decided to take apart, add some more adhesive strips. Now the digitizer stays flush.
First boot after 2nd re-assembly, got boot with first vibrate, but no screen on. So I pull the battery to attempt again. Now I receive no vibrate response from power button. When plug into charger, orange light comes on for 5 seconds and then off indefinitely. This happens each time after battery pull+wall charger plugin.
I have tried multiple times disassembling, checking both ribbon cables that plugin to motherboard, appear to connect fine. Visually all other aspects of MB appear fine.
Any ideas anyone? Not sure what may have broke. I should have left well-enough alone, but the digitizer was somewhat spongey to touch on right side of screen and I could see white light shine up... TIA
Each time I pull the batt the orange light will come on solid for 5 or so sec, then off for good. One time even started flashing for a bit like it was charging from full depletion (like it does before it lets you power on). Not sure how to diagnose.
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did not put those pieces of tape back on. In the YouTube video by "injured gadgets," I don't believe they re-covered up those ribbon cable plugins, so I also did not during re-assembly. Should I try that? Or, I assume, my board somewhere has gone bad? (Phone did work just fine after re-assemble, until I decided to take apart again)
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
hgoldner said:
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
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Click to collapse
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would go ahead and try putting it back on. There was an earlier post where someone mentioned it was important to put it back on, perhaps he can comment on what can happen if its not on (He said he learned from experience). Perhaps you can PM him.
To be honest, I originally only put the tape back on one connection, but after the second time replacing both the LCD screen and the digitizer, I found the second piece of tape and now both are back on.
What can it hurt to see if that will fix it? Its fairly easy to get to on these phones.
Ed
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
red3razor said:
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
carngeX said:
I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
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Click to collapse
I left it off on one connection for about a week also with no issues. However I did notice roughly a 16th of an inch of copper exposed on the ribbon. I can envision potential issues from that. I'm not sure about your phone, but the jaw connectors on mine would never open on their own. Far too much resistance to open from any vibration or movement. The vibrator motor connection had a better chance of disconnecting on its own than the ribbon cables. I'm sure that tape provides more than just locking the jaw connectors closed. I could be wrong though.
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I remembered and put it on before I powered up.
Dumped down the innertubes from my Asus Transformer TF300T
Just replaced my digitizer two days ago and I must add the difference is like night and day. I noted in a post that I had tripped and fell on it with my knee...lol ..nope.. I threw the damn thing and it hit the wall. Yahhh.. I know stupid lol... Something really pi$$ed me off tho and I kinda lost it.. .poooof....... Anyway, I had about 30 cracks in my digitizer and amazingly it still worked. Replaced it two days ago and it works great.
That factory adhesive is some SERIOUS stuff. I have performed many electronics repairs over the years and this...well...removing the digitizer and applying the new strips in exactly the right size was a royal pain in the a**! You REALLY gotta get that digitizer glass HOT if you want to be able to loosen it. Light heating WONT do squat to it. And the new strips arent even half as strong as the factory stuff. You really need patience and precision here.
Yes, dust ISVan issue where I live. Canned air came VERY useful. Also its good to have isopropyl alcohol and soft paper towels so you can clean any smudges you make on the LCD before reapplying the digitizer glass. Basically it's best to blow air over it quickly as you press the digi down to the adhesive. That makes sure every bit of contaminant is out.
About the ribbon cables, no I didn't reapply the amber tape to the jawbone connectors. Much of their adhesiveness was lost when I pulled them off. And as long as the ribbon cables are seated in properly and the jawbone connectors are securely locked down, they wont come disconnected. The tape is only there as an additional measure to secure the jawbone connectors from unlocking. Unless you drop your phone on concrete a lot, those cables arent coming loose....even then, dropping it wouldnt knock those loose.. Its more secure than you think. As far as the phone NOT working, the orange tape would have NO effect on that. Maybe one of your cables were partially disconnected and shorted out something on the mainboard. Either that, or it is static sensitive. Its possible if anything is CMOS.
ONLY issue I have since the repair is the top of the digitizer keeps pushing up because of the digitizer ribbon cable and where you have to bend and fold it in that groove to guide it behind the LCD . The ribbon isnt pinching down well and acts as a spring on the digitizer glass....adhesive not doing anything for that.
oh, did you all remove and reapply the clear (4 button tabs) at the bottom to the new glass? got mine in (the lights are pink now ...weeee ) Had to use some Gorilla super glue to restick them. That adhesive at the bottom was super strong and somehow they lost their stickiness when I pulled them off.
Digitizer after I finally got it unstuck from the LCD... wheewww damn. Lots of cracks. Thats what happens when the phone face eats the wall.....
So, my 4 soft keys on the bottom have yet out. Would fixing the digitzer get them back to working? My screens just got cracked like 2 days ago too, and I just want to make sure before i do all this and then find out i gotta take it all apart again. Thanks in Advance!
Hey,
So after breaking my Atrix's screen, I ordered a new Touch screen digitizer and assembled it using a video guide.
The problem is, some parts of the screen like the top notifications, some keys etc... and the 4 buttons on the bottom (The Menu, home, search etc...) aren't working either.
While I was installing the touch screen, I had to peel of this little orange adhesive strip, except I damaged it a little bit.
I had to use a little bit of scotch tape to make it stick down again. I'm not sure if it's secure and tight enough.
To help you understand better exactly what I damaged, I marked it on the image attachment.
(I used the image from the tear down guide from iFixit, I can't insert links since I'm a new member.)
That part is still connected, but it's damaged and about 1/3 of it torn off.
Is this why the screen is unresponsive? If so, replacing it will solve the problem, right?
And if that's not why it's unresponsive, should I still replace this motherboard flex cable? What's it's purpose exactly?
Thank you very much,
White.Renard
White.Renard said:
Hey,
So after breaking my Atrix's screen, I ordered a new Touch screen digitizer and assembled it using a video guide.
The problem is, some parts of the screen like the top notifications, some keys etc... and the 4 buttons on the bottom (The Menu, home, search etc...) aren't working either.
While I was installing the touch screen, I had to peel of this little orange adhesive strip, except I damaged it a little bit.
I had to use a little bit of scotch tape to make it stick down again. I'm not sure if it's secure and tight enough.
To help you understand better exactly what I damaged, I marked it on the image attachment.
(I used the image from the tear down guide from iFixit, I can't insert links since I'm a new member.)
That part is still connected, but it's damaged and about 1/3 of it torn off.
Is this why the screen is unresponsive? If so, replacing it will solve the problem, right?
And if that's not why it's unresponsive, should I still replace this motherboard flex cable? What's it's purpose exactly?
Thank you very much,
White.Renard
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The phone that I use for testing has that torn in half and still works well. As far as I can tell, it's just a ground or some type of ESD control. As long as you have some metal contact left on it making contact with the "metal tray" (replace with proper term) it should be fine. Something with a little more aggressive adhesive (like duct tape) might work, but try to keep the tape as thin as possible because too much thickness may cause too much pressure may damage the digitizer. I would double check all connectors and make sure everything is plugged in securely.
lehjr said:
The phone that I use for testing has that torn in half and still works well. As far as I can tell, it's just a ground or some type of ESD control. As long as you have some metal contact left on it making contact with the "metal tray" (replace with proper term) it should be fine. Something with a little more aggressive adhesive (like duct tape) might work, but try to keep the tape as thin as possible because too much thickness may cause too much pressure may damage the digitizer. I would double check all connectors and make sure everything is plugged in securely.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot man
I'll make sure about the tape... so now that it's clear the problem wasn't that, is it safe to say that the new touch screen digitizer is faulty and needs to be replaced again?
P.S. I've checked the connections, like 3 times, they're connected properly.
Yeaj, sometimes (more than you may like) they will be faulty
Enviado desde mi MB860 usando Tapatalk 2
MY XZU Cable fault ;-c
I try to fix
But, the cable is attached to the motherboard
I do not know what I soldered or heat ;-c
Help the person to fix cables
Attachments Photo!!!
HEXAHN said:
MY XZU Cable fault ;-c
I try to fix
But, the cable is attached to the motherboard
I do not know what I soldered or heat ;-c
Help the person to fix cables
Attachments Photo!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't fix this by yourself, unfortunately. It's glued on with some special adhesive, the contacts are to tiny to solder. The glue you buy on ebay (i assume), next problem is getting the flex cable on the right place and keep it their while glueing.....
You can look for a motherboard replacement, only last time i checked it's almost as expensive as a new phone.
Some manufacturers use small clamps for the flex cable, i assume glue is the trade off for this tiny device...
I've been to this hassle myself, i ended up on buying a new ultra
Has someone have any other suggestions? Have detached the main flex from the board. Had the main flex broken, wanted to fix, but know it's just disassembled. Had display problems before.
Can someone have some ideas? like those clamps you mentioned.
Bro your beating a dead horse, just buy a used one online
hot bar soldering attachment, anisotropic adhesive film/tape( apparently you can buy this for whole sale only. lucky for me the company I work with has spare trimmings of this), microscope or powerful magnifying glass and a lot of patience.
bump, i am in this boat, there must be a dozen lines on the cable, i cant imagine soldering it without shorting it out....
Why do they sell those toys that cannot be repaired by the way?
I'm in the same boat an all y'all being no help are no help so bump outta here already cuz everyone else in this boat looking for the answer doesn't wanna WASTE THEIR TIME on your helpless posts.
To recap we have the solder method which sounds like rubbish as flex cables melt.
Then there's that kind of adhesive glue and/or tape. Clamping is the reason phone companies profits dwindled until they switched to this new clampless method. I'm not gonna buy in bulk cuz I'm not about to start up a cell phone chop shop so maybe get a magnifying headset, some Walmart super glue that says mess free, and use a needle to dab the glue on in the right points but don't cover any contacts!
Did anyone ever managed to get this done?
I also recently experienced, looking at google solution does not get the information.
Try YouTube? I'm sure it applies to other z models
jigzerx said:
Did anyone ever managed to get this done?
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Click to collapse
I just did this. I didnt use that ADH* glue some people are talking about. I simply inspected how the old one is soldered on. Then removed the old one. There will be slight residue of the glue people are mentioning. I just simply took the solder tip OFF my soldering iron. then used a magnify glass to align the new ribbon. I also used clear tape to hold half of the ribbon down. Meaning i did 1 side at a time. So i taped from the middle to the far left to hold the ribbon down. I then used the blunt end of my soldering iron with the tip removed to press down with some force. Stayed in one location and counted to 20 the slid a little bit to the left. repeated this till the right 50% of the ribbon seemed glued down. I then applied clear tape over this portion and moved over to the previously taped left side. Repeating what I did on the right. after about 10 minutes of work. attached battery, press on button, phone came on. Then tested volume up and down and all worked.
lesterine said:
I just did this. I didnt use that ADH* glue some people are talking about. I simply inspected how the old one is soldered on. Then removed the old one. There will be slight residue of the glue people are mentioning. I just simply took the solder tip OFF my soldering iron. then used a magnify glass to align the new ribbon. I also used clear tape to hold half of the ribbon down. Meaning i did 1 side at a time. So i taped from the middle to the far left to hold the ribbon down. I then used the blunt end of my soldering iron with the tip removed to press down with some force. Stayed in one location and counted to 20 the slid a little bit to the left. repeated this till the right 50% of the ribbon seemed glued down. I then applied clear tape over this portion and moved over to the previously taped left side. Repeating what I did on the right. after about 10 minutes of work. attached battery, press on button, phone came on. Then tested volume up and down and all worked.
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Click to collapse
Can u explain me how u attached the flex cable back to its place. I didnt full understud this explanation. Have the same problem hoping u can help me.
using the soldering iron t shape tip, step 1 using the scraper to scrap away the glue then install the silicone strip to heat the flex cable on the board. hope this help.
Have same problem too! When I transferred the board with the power/volume button flex cable to a new housing, I accidentally lifted part of the flex cable causing my XZU C6833 not to boot up, no vibration and no screen image.
And can't seem to find any tutorial on how to properly attach the said cable onto the main board.
Will try lesterine's solution.