I have been replacing the glass screen on my S3 it came off nicely and the lcd if fine. Then i realised i had cut through the cable for the menu and return button. I see there are replacemnt on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Samsung-G...K_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item2a1ebb05f7
I have not put the new glass screen on yet
can i repair thiss ? and should i keep the screen off till i can ?
please help time is an issue
Check if the part you see on ebay can be removed from the screen you have. On the SII, this part was sandwiched between the plastic mounting and the screen - I smashed my screen trying to separate the two.
it was attached to the glass screen then went into the body of the phone, I have already removed the glass screen to replace it but cut through the cable. I could attach a new one between the phone and the glass. screen but unsure how i would get the rest of it through the phone.
You could always just install a ROM with on-screen buttons instead.
I gave up and put the new screen on t he buttons for menu and back don't work. As far as I van see he ribbon was attached to the back of the LCD and I ws not removing that. So I'll have to get a new expensive screen replacement . Pity cos the rest is perfect. Can I get these buttons or gestures on my phone without a new Rom ?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1808882
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
Update. Ok so I got my screen replaced. But they gave me the old one attached to the case-chasse. I had sent for a replacement button Cable like that one above. I heated it up carefully and removed the g lass. With some very delicate surgery I was able to replaced.fix the ribbon. It worked. I replaced the adhesive strip and now I have a spare screen that works well. I used lens cleaner and a cloth you get with a screen protector. There is some very slight dust but unnoticeable in use. I should probably sell it but not sure how to describe it on eBay . Could I sell it as home refurbished.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
If yo need to replace your menu cable. First unplug the cable from the gap in the back of the plate. Use small a littlenpressure to lift the chip near it of the silver insulating tape beneath. Then I pulled out the ld cable and gently uwhed the new one the right way up through the gap at the front with a blunt pin. You may need small non tooth forceps to pull it through and push new nd or ribbon into female connector. Remove sticky tape on button and apply to clean screen.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
felixthecat said:
If yo need to replace your menu cable. First unplug the cable from the gap in the back of the plate. Use small a littlenpressure to lift the chip near it of the silver insulating tape beneath. Then I pulled out the ld cable and gently uwhed the new one the right way up through the gap at the front with a blunt pin. You may need small non tooth forceps to pull it through and push new nd or ribbon into female connector. Remove sticky tape on button and apply to clean screen.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That actually worked with the LCD still glued to the frame? I would think the LEDs themselves would break while pushing it through. Anyone else try this or have another method?
Release the connector
insanity2 said:
That actually worked with the LCD still glued to the frame? I would think the LEDs themselves would break while pushing it through. Anyone else try this or have another method?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi , how do i release the connection in the connector and the cable ? , should i lift it up but in what direction ?.
Thanks
---------- Post added at 09:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:56 PM ----------
felixthecat said:
Update. Ok so I got my screen replaced. But they gave me the old one attached to the case-chasse. I had sent for a replacement button Cable like that one above. I heated it up carefully and removed the g lass. With some very delicate surgery I was able to replaced.fix the ribbon. It worked. I replaced the adhesive strip and now I have a spare screen that works well. I used lens cleaner and a cloth you get with a screen protector. There is some very slight dust but unnoticeable in use. I should probably sell it but not sure how to describe it on eBay . Could I sell it as home refurbished.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi , how did you replace this cable ? how did i release the connection from the socket ?
Thanks
S3 Flex ribbon cable replacement success
Do a Youtube search for "Galaxy S3 menu return flex cable repair 2013 May 3" for a little more info on the general idea behind the repair. Below is what I did to get it to work.
I got this fix to work successfully with part V1.0 even though the original was V3.0. I heated up a mini flathead screwdriver, and used it like a scraper to remove enough plastic to open the channel on the left side of the recess (looking at the phone from the front). I bent 2 pins at about a 90 degree angle and gently slid them in on the backside(inside) of the phone. They should be alongside the ribbon cable on either side. GENTLY pull them down to provide the last bit of leverage to slide out the old cable. New one wriggled in same way with a little help from mini pliers/tweezers to pull it the rest of the way through. Wanted to do a video, but not really set up for it. Got pics though.
Cheers!
Related
I had a carabiner case, which was attached to my bag, so the phone was hanging off of my bag. I put my bag down in the car, and closed the door...on the phone. The phone has a nice, tiny crack at the top left of the screen, rendering the touchscreen portion from working. At the time of the incident, the screen was still working, but after 3 days, the screen started to "die off". Now, the screen is not working, as in not turning on, but everything else is still good (I think...the sound's working, the phone's turning on as if there is no problem). I'm living in Belgium and I've called Samsung Belgium, but they weren't much help. Checked the store that I bought it from, but they weren't much help either. I've decided that I'm gonna just replace the screen myself. I've looked online for a similar issue, but I've found nothing. My question is, what do I need to get to begin repairing my phone.
I'll post pictures of the phone later.
You need an display panel and digitizer (they come as one unit. I've seen them on eBay here for £119 for the entire screen assembly and (in this case white) outer frame. It's a very easy job to take apart the S3 and attach such a unit to the motherboard as the S3 is not a complicated assembly at all.
Sent from my GT-I9300
How to replace screen posts/guide on here .
jje
leoni1980 said:
You need an display panel and digitizer (they come as one unit. I've seen them on eBay here for £119 for the entire screen assembly and (in this case white) outer frame. It's a very easy job to take apart the S3 and attach such a unit to the motherboard as the S3 is not a complicated assembly at all.
Sent from my GT-I9300
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks...another question, what kind of protection you got on your phone?
There's an iFixit teardown on YouTube. Just watch that. Basically though, you take the battery/SIM/Micro SD out, remove the screws at the back to take the rear panel off and expose the motherboard. There's one more screw as I recall, a few ribbon connectors, an aerial clip, a protector over upper portion of the unit which just pulls away and you then remove this and the motherboard and you have an exposed unit (the same unit you buy ready assembled from a number of outlets. As I said, the cheapest I've seen one is for £119 from a seller on eBay which I believe was refurbished.
Sent from my GT-I9300
---------- Post added at 10:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:12 AM ----------
steve1o said:
Thanks...another question, what kind of protection you got on your phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use a TPU case and a pretty bog standard screen protector. After my girlfriend broke her screen completely (to the point of not even switching on) from a drop of less than two feet and a friend of mine had the same happen I'm massively paranoid about my S3 breaking and am even contemplating selling it for that reason, though it is reassuring to know I can fix it easily enough I suppose.
Sent from my GT-I9300
leoni1980 said:
There's an iFixit teardown on YouTube. Just watch that. Basically though, you take the battery/SIM/Micro SD out, remove the screws at the back to take the rear panel off and expose the motherboard. There's one more screw as I recall, a few ribbon connectors, an aerial clip, a protector over upper portion of the unit which just pulls away and you then remove this and the motherboard and you have an exposed unit (the same unit you buy ready assembled from a number of outlets. As I said, the cheapest I've seen one is for £119 from a seller on eBay which I believe was refurbished.
Sent from my GT-I9300
---------- Post added at 10:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:12 AM ----------
I use a TPU case and a pretty bog standard screen protector. After my girlfriend broke her screen completely (to the point of not even switching on) from a drop of less than two feet and a friend of mine had the same happen I'm massively paranoid about my S3 breaking and am even contemplating selling it for that reason, though it is reassuring to know I can fix it easily enough I suppose.
Sent from my GT-I9300
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, an update. I've had a screen protector the entire time. It didn't occur to me to check the crack. Turns out the crack is inside the glass, which means that the screen is not cracked. Does this change anything?
steve1o said:
So, an update. I've had a screen protector the entire time. It didn't occur to me to check the crack. Turns out the crack is inside the glass, which means that the screen is not cracked. Does this change anything?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not really screen and digitizer are bonded together, with the right tools you might separate them but how are you going to bond the new digitizer to the old screen?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
ghostofcain said:
Not really screen and digitizer are bonded together, with the right tools you might separate them but how are you going to bond the new digitizer to the old screen?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just bought a new screen digitizer thingie, so it's on it's way right meow.
I recently had 2 dead lines going down my screen. From searching around I found that I needed to replace the front screen digitizer.
So I got a new digitizer, tore down the phone and followed the steps from a few youtube videos pretty meticulously. I reassembled the phone, and it powers up just fine. But it now response to no touch. I'm going to do a complete tear down again, but is there any tips that can be given? I've checked if the digitizer's ribbon cable is snapped in, all the motherboard cables are also snapped in.
Is there something I should check to see if it's just the new digitizer is a dud? Since the whole phone powers up and functions fine.. to me that sends up red flags.
Oh and I followed this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TbR56jSplRs
If nothing else works you probably tore the ribbon cable, which is very easy to do. Also make sure you got an OEM screen. There are cheaper reproductions that aren't nearly as good. (Feel, glass, and details) the one I bought on amazon (from seller1on1 I think) is oem. Contact your company if you can't get it fixed, the company I got it from sent me like 3 replacements before I realized I forgot to remove the plastic bar.
Sent from my MB860 using xda premium
yea i bought an OEM refurb also with front Case.
Works great
squee666 said:
yea i bought an OEM refurb also with front Case.
Works great
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1
avoid the "oem" digitizers and go for the refurb with bezel as these are also much easier to fit.
Have put 2 on now. One to replace dead zones and one when I dropped and cracked the screen.
Thanks, I did get an OEM one. I'll contact them to have them ship me a new one!
And by tore ribbon cable you mean the one attached to the digitizer? That had to be snapped onto the top next to the power button?
GiffE said:
And by tore ribbon cable you mean the one attached to the digitizer? That had to be snapped onto the top next to the power button?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that one. The problem is the end attached to the digitizer itself. Never had to dig into this myself (knock on wood), but they say the part where the cable is attached to the digitizer is very very fragile and tears of easily (sometimes even micro-tears, something you can't even see, but it still disrupts the connection). They also say that cable is ridiculously short and that is a part of the problem why it tears so easily.
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
The best reason for replacing both is that you won't have to worry about binding them or getting dust between them if you get them together preassembled. As to the rest, I can't say. I know we have a few people here who have done it.
So I found the adhesive strips that I need. It comes as a bulk sheet where you cut them to fit. I am going with replacing only the digitizer. Replacing the LCD screen also would male the process easier however I fear getting a replacement screen that is in worse shape or more poorly made than the original one my phone came with. I know this one has no flaws.
So I have answered my questions already. I'll post here when I done replacing the digitizer with anything that is of interest in case someone else has questions about this procedure.
Thank you for your input shrike1978. Much appreciated.
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check out my thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2189789
I did it not long ago, and was fine. However, I opted to go for the digitizer + LCD assembly, as I didn't want to have to worry about separating the digitizer from the LCD and worrying about dust.
To answer your questions:
1) It's eaiser, takes less time, and you don't have to worry about dust with replacing the digitizer + LCD assembly.
2) Replace the adhesive. I tried reusing it... and it has some flex on it. So I got some new adhesive, scraped the old stuff off, put the new one, and used a heatgun to move the screen assembly around to get it to fit right, and then pressed it down as it cooled to secure it better.
3) Ebay
4) Not sure on this one... not that I know of anyway.
5) If you get the parts from eBay, then they sometimes come with tools (Torx, philips, and a plastic separator tool).
I also linked the video that I used in my thread, so you can look at that. It's pretty straightforward and easy to do. Took me about 45 minutes to just over an hour to do everything, as I was taking my time.
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
etieseler said:
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also purchased the full assembly and was able to switch the new parts onto my Rezound. Unfortunately, the earpiece (the part you listen to when NOT on speakerphone) and the proximity sensor did not work with the new set, and I am swapping it for a replacement. However, I've been inside the unit now 5 times, and I suggest in addition to the tools supplied with the sets (t5, small phillips and separator) you also have a small flathead (helps with starting the split the unit apart and also with pulling and reattaching the vibrator motor) and a long tweezers (invaluable when trying to reconnect the ribbon cables.)
Also, reconnect the MIDDLE ribbon cable (which is slightly twisted and longer) first, then reconnect the top, and don't forget to reapply the insulating tape (been there, done that).
Watch the take apart video on Youtube repeatedly until you can do it with your eyes closed, and be careful, the red plastic does break easily, especially on the corners.
Replaced my digitizer with good success, using new adhesive. Upon first re-assembly the digitizer was popping out of the plastic bezel a bit, but everything worked great, touch, display, everything. So I decided to take apart, add some more adhesive strips. Now the digitizer stays flush.
First boot after 2nd re-assembly, got boot with first vibrate, but no screen on. So I pull the battery to attempt again. Now I receive no vibrate response from power button. When plug into charger, orange light comes on for 5 seconds and then off indefinitely. This happens each time after battery pull+wall charger plugin.
I have tried multiple times disassembling, checking both ribbon cables that plugin to motherboard, appear to connect fine. Visually all other aspects of MB appear fine.
Any ideas anyone? Not sure what may have broke. I should have left well-enough alone, but the digitizer was somewhat spongey to touch on right side of screen and I could see white light shine up... TIA
Each time I pull the batt the orange light will come on solid for 5 or so sec, then off for good. One time even started flashing for a bit like it was charging from full depletion (like it does before it lets you power on). Not sure how to diagnose.
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did not put those pieces of tape back on. In the YouTube video by "injured gadgets," I don't believe they re-covered up those ribbon cable plugins, so I also did not during re-assembly. Should I try that? Or, I assume, my board somewhere has gone bad? (Phone did work just fine after re-assemble, until I decided to take apart again)
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
hgoldner said:
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would go ahead and try putting it back on. There was an earlier post where someone mentioned it was important to put it back on, perhaps he can comment on what can happen if its not on (He said he learned from experience). Perhaps you can PM him.
To be honest, I originally only put the tape back on one connection, but after the second time replacing both the LCD screen and the digitizer, I found the second piece of tape and now both are back on.
What can it hurt to see if that will fix it? Its fairly easy to get to on these phones.
Ed
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
red3razor said:
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
carngeX said:
I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I left it off on one connection for about a week also with no issues. However I did notice roughly a 16th of an inch of copper exposed on the ribbon. I can envision potential issues from that. I'm not sure about your phone, but the jaw connectors on mine would never open on their own. Far too much resistance to open from any vibration or movement. The vibrator motor connection had a better chance of disconnecting on its own than the ribbon cables. I'm sure that tape provides more than just locking the jaw connectors closed. I could be wrong though.
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I remembered and put it on before I powered up.
Dumped down the innertubes from my Asus Transformer TF300T
Just replaced my digitizer two days ago and I must add the difference is like night and day. I noted in a post that I had tripped and fell on it with my knee...lol ..nope.. I threw the damn thing and it hit the wall. Yahhh.. I know stupid lol... Something really pi$$ed me off tho and I kinda lost it.. .poooof....... Anyway, I had about 30 cracks in my digitizer and amazingly it still worked. Replaced it two days ago and it works great.
That factory adhesive is some SERIOUS stuff. I have performed many electronics repairs over the years and this...well...removing the digitizer and applying the new strips in exactly the right size was a royal pain in the a**! You REALLY gotta get that digitizer glass HOT if you want to be able to loosen it. Light heating WONT do squat to it. And the new strips arent even half as strong as the factory stuff. You really need patience and precision here.
Yes, dust ISVan issue where I live. Canned air came VERY useful. Also its good to have isopropyl alcohol and soft paper towels so you can clean any smudges you make on the LCD before reapplying the digitizer glass. Basically it's best to blow air over it quickly as you press the digi down to the adhesive. That makes sure every bit of contaminant is out.
About the ribbon cables, no I didn't reapply the amber tape to the jawbone connectors. Much of their adhesiveness was lost when I pulled them off. And as long as the ribbon cables are seated in properly and the jawbone connectors are securely locked down, they wont come disconnected. The tape is only there as an additional measure to secure the jawbone connectors from unlocking. Unless you drop your phone on concrete a lot, those cables arent coming loose....even then, dropping it wouldnt knock those loose.. Its more secure than you think. As far as the phone NOT working, the orange tape would have NO effect on that. Maybe one of your cables were partially disconnected and shorted out something on the mainboard. Either that, or it is static sensitive. Its possible if anything is CMOS.
ONLY issue I have since the repair is the top of the digitizer keeps pushing up because of the digitizer ribbon cable and where you have to bend and fold it in that groove to guide it behind the LCD . The ribbon isnt pinching down well and acts as a spring on the digitizer glass....adhesive not doing anything for that.
oh, did you all remove and reapply the clear (4 button tabs) at the bottom to the new glass? got mine in (the lights are pink now ...weeee ) Had to use some Gorilla super glue to restick them. That adhesive at the bottom was super strong and somehow they lost their stickiness when I pulled them off.
Digitizer after I finally got it unstuck from the LCD... wheewww damn. Lots of cracks. Thats what happens when the phone face eats the wall.....
So, my 4 soft keys on the bottom have yet out. Would fixing the digitzer get them back to working? My screens just got cracked like 2 days ago too, and I just want to make sure before i do all this and then find out i gotta take it all apart again. Thanks in Advance!
Cracked my screen and after doing some research realized I'm better off purchasing both the lcd and Digitizer together rather than just the Digitizer.
My question is, if I am replacing them together do I need to disassemble the entire device? Most of the videos I've found show the Digitizer being removed.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda app-developers app
Ebru77 said:
Cracked my screen and after doing some research realized I'm better off purchasing both the lcd and Digitizer together rather than just the Digitizer.
My question is, if I am replacing them together do I need to disassemble the entire device? Most of the videos I've found show the Digitizer being removed.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You will have to take off the back which is pretty easy but will probably damage the yellow seal. Everything inside, motherboard,bottom board which has the LCD ribbon underneath it and the top board which has the digitizer ribbon underneath. Got to be careful with the top power button un-stick first. Then your just left with the middle housing take off the screen assembly get rid of the double sided take apply new and be careful getting the top digitizer cable in as once i pulled down the cable too much and the cable got folded in half and didn't turn on. Wait a few hours to see if the digitizer is nicely stuck down and doesn't pop out again as i had to apply tape to the top of the digitizer as will as it just would stick down, the bottom was fine. Remember the old screen assembly has the plastic strip at the bottom for the lights just attach to the new screen.
Thanks for the advice, the parts will be in tomorrow, I'll update with my experience.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda app-developers app
So I ordered from repairsuniverse installation was fine, except I got a defective screen, the far right side is non responsive... Sucks
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda app-developers app
MY XZU Cable fault ;-c
I try to fix
But, the cable is attached to the motherboard
I do not know what I soldered or heat ;-c
Help the person to fix cables
Attachments Photo!!!
HEXAHN said:
MY XZU Cable fault ;-c
I try to fix
But, the cable is attached to the motherboard
I do not know what I soldered or heat ;-c
Help the person to fix cables
Attachments Photo!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't fix this by yourself, unfortunately. It's glued on with some special adhesive, the contacts are to tiny to solder. The glue you buy on ebay (i assume), next problem is getting the flex cable on the right place and keep it their while glueing.....
You can look for a motherboard replacement, only last time i checked it's almost as expensive as a new phone.
Some manufacturers use small clamps for the flex cable, i assume glue is the trade off for this tiny device...
I've been to this hassle myself, i ended up on buying a new ultra
Has someone have any other suggestions? Have detached the main flex from the board. Had the main flex broken, wanted to fix, but know it's just disassembled. Had display problems before.
Can someone have some ideas? like those clamps you mentioned.
Bro your beating a dead horse, just buy a used one online
hot bar soldering attachment, anisotropic adhesive film/tape( apparently you can buy this for whole sale only. lucky for me the company I work with has spare trimmings of this), microscope or powerful magnifying glass and a lot of patience.
bump, i am in this boat, there must be a dozen lines on the cable, i cant imagine soldering it without shorting it out....
Why do they sell those toys that cannot be repaired by the way?
I'm in the same boat an all y'all being no help are no help so bump outta here already cuz everyone else in this boat looking for the answer doesn't wanna WASTE THEIR TIME on your helpless posts.
To recap we have the solder method which sounds like rubbish as flex cables melt.
Then there's that kind of adhesive glue and/or tape. Clamping is the reason phone companies profits dwindled until they switched to this new clampless method. I'm not gonna buy in bulk cuz I'm not about to start up a cell phone chop shop so maybe get a magnifying headset, some Walmart super glue that says mess free, and use a needle to dab the glue on in the right points but don't cover any contacts!
Did anyone ever managed to get this done?
I also recently experienced, looking at google solution does not get the information.
Try YouTube? I'm sure it applies to other z models
jigzerx said:
Did anyone ever managed to get this done?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did this. I didnt use that ADH* glue some people are talking about. I simply inspected how the old one is soldered on. Then removed the old one. There will be slight residue of the glue people are mentioning. I just simply took the solder tip OFF my soldering iron. then used a magnify glass to align the new ribbon. I also used clear tape to hold half of the ribbon down. Meaning i did 1 side at a time. So i taped from the middle to the far left to hold the ribbon down. I then used the blunt end of my soldering iron with the tip removed to press down with some force. Stayed in one location and counted to 20 the slid a little bit to the left. repeated this till the right 50% of the ribbon seemed glued down. I then applied clear tape over this portion and moved over to the previously taped left side. Repeating what I did on the right. after about 10 minutes of work. attached battery, press on button, phone came on. Then tested volume up and down and all worked.
lesterine said:
I just did this. I didnt use that ADH* glue some people are talking about. I simply inspected how the old one is soldered on. Then removed the old one. There will be slight residue of the glue people are mentioning. I just simply took the solder tip OFF my soldering iron. then used a magnify glass to align the new ribbon. I also used clear tape to hold half of the ribbon down. Meaning i did 1 side at a time. So i taped from the middle to the far left to hold the ribbon down. I then used the blunt end of my soldering iron with the tip removed to press down with some force. Stayed in one location and counted to 20 the slid a little bit to the left. repeated this till the right 50% of the ribbon seemed glued down. I then applied clear tape over this portion and moved over to the previously taped left side. Repeating what I did on the right. after about 10 minutes of work. attached battery, press on button, phone came on. Then tested volume up and down and all worked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can u explain me how u attached the flex cable back to its place. I didnt full understud this explanation. Have the same problem hoping u can help me.
using the soldering iron t shape tip, step 1 using the scraper to scrap away the glue then install the silicone strip to heat the flex cable on the board. hope this help.
Have same problem too! When I transferred the board with the power/volume button flex cable to a new housing, I accidentally lifted part of the flex cable causing my XZU C6833 not to boot up, no vibration and no screen image.
And can't seem to find any tutorial on how to properly attach the said cable onto the main board.
Will try lesterine's solution.