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Hi guys, ok heres a problem i am left with , i have an XDA IIs with what i think is a cracked lcd ( bleeding badly ) i m sure the touch screen is ok as there is no crack as such - question i have is is it easy enough to replace the screen ?, and or where can i get instructions from - i have never dimantled a pda - but repaired many fones and other brown goods --cheers in advance
this pdf helped me when I had to dismantle my BA...
Link broken
bukwit said:
this pdf helped me when I had to dismantle my BA...
ftp://xda:[email protected]/sx66_09.pdf
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
please help - seems this is a dead link ...
working link is in this thread...the 23rd post...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=230049&page=3
Should be quite easy
I have done it myself with my BA and it was quite easy.
Link is not working
bukwit said:
this pdf helped me when I had to dismantle my BA...
ftp://xda:[email protected]/sx66_09.pdf
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can anyone help - please.
No problems - Google found on another site
zybercynic said:
Can anyone help - please.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://pdasmart.zftp.com/instructions/sx66_09.pdf
For all of those who are performing case surgery - please note that the BA (M2000) has extra screws to remove before the case will separate.
You will need T5, T6 and an ultra fine Philips head screwdrivers to remove screws.
XDA IIs LCD replacement
I have dismantled a XDA IIs, but am not sure how to get the LCD out of the front cover, there seems to be some plastic welds holding the front cover together?
Can any one assist please?
I will have a go at explaining
ok try to explain
1. take off battery
2. unscrew the four torx4/torx5 screws including the one under warning label but no need to touch the phone idenity label
3. unscrew the two side screws located near top
4. take out pen and any card in device
5. carefully remove back (now you will be able to see the circuit board)
6. looking at the phone lcd down so you see the circuit board remove screws (small philips/ crossheads silver in color)
1.top left
2. top right
3. midle right near small cable
now you should be able to move the circuit board (do not force apart)
the lcd cable and keyboard cable are attached to the underside of the board
1. slide the phone 50% open (but keep phone lcd face down so you are look at the board phone the (keyboad being closest to you than main speaker))
2. carefully lift left side of board (you should see the cables) using a small screwdriver Very Carefully pry them off the board (the should pop off with no force needed)
3. slide phone fully open and now you are able to see all 4 torx screws that hold the front part of the phone on just under the circuit boad
* bottom 2 are in small cut out boxes just under to circuit board you may need to slide the front up or down to align with the screws
*the top 2 you should have notice when you fully opened the phone in normal use and looked at the back of the lcd at top behind speaker
4. the front surround and lcd and buttons will come off carefully remove from bottom near the navigation buttons
5. the phone should now be able to split into the two halfs with cables
6. you should be able to unscrew the the lcd and the cable 2 top 2 bottom for lcd but you have to also remove the button ribbon cable
replace lcd and reverse process
*the lcd cable needed to be pushed into the socket on the underside of the circuit board (this can be tricky take ur time)
*the keyboard cable is simular to the lcd cable but it has a smaller socket that it clips into
maybe this is a quick help I should have looked about a bit maybe someone done it better with pictures than me hey it only took 10mins
BlueDragon747 said:
ok try to explain
1. take off battery
2. unscrew the four torx4/torx5 screws including the one under warning label but no need to touch the phone idenity label
3. unscrew the two side screws located near top
4. take out pen and any card in device
5. carefully remove back (now you will be able to see the circuit board)
6. looking at the phone lcd down so you see the circuit board remove screws (small philips/ crossheads silver in color)
1.top left
2. top right
3. midle right near small cable
now you should be able to move the circuit board (do not force apart)
the lcd cable and keyboard cable are attached to the underside of the board
1. slide the phone 50% open (but keep phone lcd face down so you are look at the board phone the (keyboad being closest to you than main speaker))
2. carefully lift left side of board (you should see the cables) using a small screwdriver Very Carefully pry them off the board (the should pop off with no force needed)
3. slide phone fully open and now you are able to see all 4 torx screws that hold the front part of the phone on just under the circuit boad
* bottom 2 are in small cut out boxes just under to circuit board you may need to slide the front up or down to align with the screws
*the top 2 you should have notice when you fully opened the phone in normal use and looked at the back of the lcd at top behind speaker
4. the front surround and lcd and buttons will come off carefully remove from bottom near the navigation buttons
5. the phone should now be able to split into the two halfs with cables
6. you should be able to unscrew the the lcd and the cable 2 top 2 bottom for lcd but you have to also remove the button ribbon cable
replace lcd and reverse process
*the lcd cable needed to be pushed into the socket on the underside of the circuit board (this can be tricky take ur time)
*the keyboard cable is simular to the lcd cable but it has a smaller socket that it clips into
maybe this is a quick help I should have looked about a bit maybe someone done it better with pictures than me hey it only took 10mins
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
these instructions i will cherish , cheers for the detailed breakdown...
Please help me how to seperate the LCD and touchscreen?
I bought the BA with a broken touchscreen, the LCD is fine, I got a new touchscreen and disassemble it, I don't know how to do next, can anyone tell me how to seperate the LCD and touchscreen? and how to unplug and plug the touchscreen cable? Thank you very much!!
i have detailed instructions PDF with pictures.
drop me an email
lcd instructions
try www.htclcd.com for lcd replacement instructions
blue angel
could you send me that pdf file please (instructions PDF with pictures xdaIIs touch replacement)
thanks
Just finished replacing my cracked glass / digitizer, but now my previously working LCD just shows vertical colored lines. I bought one of the glass / digitizer replacements from Ebay, which was a perfect match for the OEM piece. Since I was having trouble finding the thin double sided tape, I used black silicone adhesive to bond the LCD to the digitizer. When I plugged in LCD panel and turned the tablet on, all I get is vertical varying colored lines across the LCD. I've pressed the on /off switch for 10 seconds to reboot the device, but it still does the same thing. I've taken the ribbon cable off and on checking to see if was not properly seated, but it seems to be okay. Any ideas?
The ribbon cable had a 90 degree bend in it after it was removed... can that cause an internal cut in the cable itself? At least to me, it appears that the LCD is working, since the lines are bright in color and even change as you manipulate the digitizer... it just has no picture.
Thanks..
Killer95Stang said:
Just finished replacing my cracked glass / digitizer, but now my previously working LCD just shows vertical colored lines. I bought one of the glass / digitizer replacements from Ebay, which was a perfect match for the OEM piece. Since I was having trouble finding the thin double sided tape, I used black silicone adhesive to bond the LCD to the digitizer. When I plugged in LCD panel and turned the tablet on, all I get is vertical varying colored lines across the LCD. I've pressed the on /off switch for 10 seconds to reboot the device, but it still does the same thing. I've taken the ribbon cable off and on checking to see if was not properly seated, but it seems to be okay. Any ideas?
The ribbon cable had a 90 degree bend in it after it was removed... can that cause an internal cut in the cable itself? At least to me, it appears that the LCD is working, since the lines are bright in color and even change as you manipulate the digitizer... it just has no picture.
Thanks..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
90 degree bends can cause one or more of the individual conductors to become broken. I've had it happen on hard drive cables, and one inside a sprinkler system once.
chamberc said:
90 degree bends can cause one or more of the individual conductors to become broken. I've had it happen on hard drive cables, and one inside a sprinkler system once.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any way to actually test this? Can use a voltmeter type tester to check continuity from one side of each pin to the other? They are hair like in size, so not sure the standard tests are the same.
Thanks..
My DIY experience...
Hi,
How did you perform the screen replacement? I have tried and I have described it below.
It seem like there are a lot of people that has TF201s with broken screens, but very little information about how to DIY screen replacement, so I wanted to post my experience here.
The screen on my TF201 cracked (dropped on the floor - only the screen was damaged, the LCD and digitizer still worked) so I seached around the web to find ways to replace the screen - without luck
I did find instructions on how to open the device and I also found original glass/digitizer replacement parts on eBay originating from China at about $100 so I took the chance and ordererd a new screen. It arrived 2 weeks after and looked good.
With the instructions on how to disassemble the TF201, it was quickly open and the glass/digitizer/LCD is one subassembly connected to the mainboard with two flex cables - one for the LCD and one for the digitizer.
Next step is to power off the system internally. There is a small internal switch in the lower left corner that you should switch to the off position. The LCD and digitizer cables can now be disconnected from the mainboard. The connectors open easily by putting a nail under the white frame of the correctors and pulling the frame up and then pull out the flex cables. You now have the glass/digitizer/LCD separated from the mainboard.
The LCD has a few screws to hold it to the plastic frame - these should be removed at this step. Mine only has two screws mounted although there are room for more (bad assembly quality or a fix for screen bleeding???)
Now comes the hard part and the part where I failed! There is a plastic frame around the edges of the glass that you need to remove and mount on the new glass. This plastic part holds all the taps that keep the tablet together and it is taped to the glass with some VERY sticky tape!
I used a knife to cut between the plastic and the glass with the result that the glass broke in tiny pieces as I went around, but as I saw no other way I kept going... It might have been better to use a heat gun or a hairblower to heat up the glue before trying to remove it, bu I was worried that the LCD might be damaged by the heat.
The plastic frame has to be removed first to have access to the foam tape that is used to tape the LCD to the glass/digitizer. Once the plastic frame was off, I again used the knife to gently cut the foam tape (around 1 mm thick) all around the LCD screen so that this can be removed from the glass.
Here I might have made my second mistake. I was worried that I would cut too deep into the foam and hit the LCD screen, but the foam at the bottom of the screen is a little wider than the rest and as I tried to remove the screen I used too much force and might have damaged the LCD - the end result was that also the LCD was damaged in the process. The damage might also have been caused by me pressing too hard on the screen during the removal of the plastic frame (might actually be more likely as the glass was broken across the screen and the damage I was seing when I turned on the screen was following the same line).
Well, I got the LCD off the broken screen and though I had been successfull even thought it had taken a couple of hours to get there (I could not visually see that the LCD was damaged at this point). Then on to the assembly with the new screen/digitizer! I had some double sided tape that I used to tape the screen to the plastic, but desided to to a quick test before I fully assembled the unit and this turned out to be a good idea!
I mounted the LCD screen with just the screws and connected the flex cables back into the connectors (these can be a little tricky to get it, so just be patient and keep wiggling them in and close the latches). I enabled the power again and pressed the power botton and: DAMM - THE LCD IS BROKE!!!!
After wiglling a little with the LCD cable I was able to get a partial image, but it was evident that I had mishandled the LCD screen during the disassembly and I needed a new screen to gt my tablet working again - now I was glad that I did not glue the LCD to the glass, so that I needed both a new LCD and a new glass/digitizer!
Off to the web to seach for a replacement LCD screen... Hmm, lots of ebay listings for replacement LCDs, but none of them looked like the original I had, but when seaching for the partnumber on the LCD I took out (Hannstar HSD101PWW2 rev. 0-A00) I did find a few priced around $100
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a 5 point screen calibration routine, but this does not seem to be supported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
They did offer to refund the price of the screen if I shipped the screen back to them, but I will most likely damage the screen when trying to remove the plastic frame and it will cost me shipping the part back to China...
Did you test if the touch screen is actually working on your reworked unit (you can use the HDMI output as I did)?
Unless I get the screen issue resolved I most likely will get a TF700 instead of my broken prime - I really loved the prime for the 4 months I had it working...
ThomasKJ said:
Hi,
How did you perform the screen replacement? I have tried and I have described it below.
It seem like there are a lot of people that has TF201s with broken screens, but very little information about how to DIY screen replacement, so I wanted to post my experience here.
The screen on my TF201 cracked (dropped on the floor - only the screen was damaged, the LCD and digitizer still worked) so I seached around the web to find ways to replace the screen - without luck
I did find instructions on how to open the device and I also found original glass/digitizer replacement parts on eBay originating from China at about $100 so I took the chance and ordererd a new screen. It arrived 2 weeks after and looked good.
With the instructions on how to disassemble the TF201, it was quickly open and the glass/digitizer/LCD is one subassembly connected to the mainboard with two flex cables - one for the LCD and one for the digitizer.
Next step is to power off the system internally. There is a small internal switch in the lower left corner that you should switch to the off position. The LCD and digitizer cables can now be disconnected from the mainboard. The connectors open easily by putting a nail under the white frame of the correctors and pulling the frame up and then pull out the flex cables. You now have the glass/digitizer/LCD separated from the mainboard.
The LCD has a few screws to hold it to the plastic frame - these should be removed at this step. Mine only has two screws mounted although there are room for more (bad assembly quality or a fix for screen bleeding???)
Now comes the hard part and the part where I failed! There is a plastic frame around the edges of the glass that you need to remove and mount on the new glass. This plastic part holds all the taps that keep the tablet together and it is taped to the glass with some VERY sticky tape!
I used a knife to cut between the plastic and the glass with the result that the glass broke in tiny pieces as I went around, but as I saw no other way I kept going... It might have been better to use a heat gun or a hairblower to heat up the glue before trying to remove it, bu I was worried that the LCD might be damaged by the heat.
The plastic frame has to be removed first to have access to the foam tape that is used to tape the LCD to the glass/digitizer. Once the plastic frame was off, I again used the knife to gently cut the foam tape (around 1 mm thick) all around the LCD screen so that this can be removed from the glass.
Here I might have made my second mistake. I was worried that I would cut too deep into the foam and hit the LCD screen, but the foam at the bottom of the screen is a little wider than the rest and as I tried to remove the screen I used too much force and might have damaged the LCD - the end result was that also the LCD was damaged in the process. The damage might also have been caused by me pressing too hard on the screen during the removal of the plastic frame (might actually be more likely as the glass was broken across the screen and the damage I was seing when I turned on the screen was following the same line).
Well, I got the LCD off the broken screen and though I had been successfull even thought it had taken a couple of hours to get there (I could not visually see that the LCD was damaged at this point). Then on to the assembly with the new screen/digitizer! I had some double sided tape that I used to tape the screen to the plastic, but desided to to a quick test before I fully assembled the unit and this turned out to be a good idea!
I mounted the LCD screen with just the screws and connected the flex cables back into the connectors (these can be a little tricky to get it, so just be patient and keep wiggling them in and close the latches). I enabled the power again and pressed the power botton and: DAMM - THE LCD IS BROKE!!!!
After wiglling a little with the LCD cable I was able to get a partial image, but it was evident that I had mishandled the LCD screen during the disassembly and I needed a new screen to gt my tablet working again - now I was glad that I did not glue the LCD to the glass, so that I needed both a new LCD and a new glass/digitizer!
Off to the web to seach for a replacement LCD screen... Hmm, lots of ebay listings for replacement LCDs, but none of them looked like the original I had, but when seaching for the partnumber on the LCD I took out (Hannstar HSD101PWW2 rev. 0-A00) I did find a few priced around $100
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a 5 point screen calibration routine, but this does not seem to be supported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
They did offer to refund the price of the screen if I shipped the screen back to them, but I will most likely damage the screen when trying to remove the plastic frame and it will cost me shipping the part back to China...
Did you test if the touch screen is actually working on your reworked unit (you can use the HDMI output as I did)?
Unless I get the screen issue resolved I most likely will get a TF700 instead of my broken prime - I really loved the prime for the 4 months I had it working...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was in the same boat as you... after I took apart the unit, I still had a functioning screen... but when I went further to separate the LCD from the digitizer, I must have damaged the LCD. Right now all I get are vertical colored lines. I need to get an HDMI cable so I can check the function of the digitizer.. It seems to work, because I do get color changes when its manipulated, but no image. Damm.. problem is... how much good money do I spend on a damaged device.. At this point, I wish I just sent it in to get fixed by Asus..
Killer95Stang said:
I was in the same boat as you... after I took apart the unit, I still had a functioning screen... but when I went further to separate the LCD from the digitizer, I must have damaged the LCD. Right now all I get are vertical colored lines. I need to get an HDMI cable so I can check the function of the digitizer.. It seems to work, because I do get color changes when its manipulated, but no image. Damm.. problem is... how much good money do I spend on a damaged device.. At this point, I wish I just sent it in to get fixed by Asus..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure that your LCD is broken. It might just be the connection to the motherboard that is bad as chamberc said. I had the same problem with my broken screen. I had to wiggle the cable to get a partial correct picture on my screen. I tried to clean the pads without getting a 100% stable connection so I might have broken the flex cable as well, but normally these are relatively good at flexing without braking (they are made to do that) so I tend to think that it is the connection in the connector.
Until I figure out what to do with the touch screen I have not spend more time on root casuing it, but I suggest that you try to take the flex out of the connector and clean it with either a erasor or a cloth with alcohol and then gently put it back into the connector. Also ensure that you put it in the right way and close the hatch properly.
Good luck.
On the touch screen issue, my touch screen is working fine it JUST has a reverted x-axis, so it would still cause your colors to change, so I'm very curious if yours is working. Could you also share the touch screen part number (printed on the flex cable) and TF201 hardware version (TF201-1B or TF201-1I or???) This should be written on the label of the box and on the warrenty card.
The background for me asking about this, is that asusparts.eu has different spare parts depending on if is for TF201-1B or TF201-1I so there might be two versions of the hardware out there. Mine is a TF201-1B.
So I dropped my phone today, and it must have fell on the corner good enough that it cracked the screen from the top-left to the middle-right.
Going to replace the digitizer/LCD as a combo since it's a bit easier than replacing just the digitizer.
Ordered this today:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350582267363?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
Watched a couple of the repair videos (specifically this one: http://blog.repairsuniverse.net/how-to-fix-htc-rezound-screen/), and they say that there's adhesive on the back of this assembly as well that you need to pry away from (in the previously linked video, they push the assembly away from the housing from the backside and pry away from the housing/adhesive). My question is... am I going to have to replace this adhesive once I pry the assembly away from the housing? Or should the adhesive that's there be good enough to secure it as long as I don't rip it away very badly?
If I do need to get new adhesive, anybody have any links as to what to get?
Thanks in advance, I appreciate it!
I never replace a screen before. good luck
Bump.
Still haven't done this, as I haven't had time on the weekends yet. Got a GNexus to get me by, but I'm missing my Rezound.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069YNZV2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
doing all this is very tedious work... make sure you get the soft button hinges in correctly or the screen wont sit flat..
agentofchaos said:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069YNZV2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
doing all this is very tedious work... make sure you get the soft button hinges in correctly or the screen wont sit flat..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Should be less tedious since I got the LCD/Digitizer assembly together, so I don't have to replace just the digitizer.
I replaced the digitizer on mine last year. The process was just a disaster for me (ended up cracking my LCD)...but since yours is coming with the LCD and digitizer already glued together...perhaps you should have some better luck. It won't be necessarily difficult to do...it could just become a pain.
For one...there are clear tabs attached to the digitizer that essentially "draw" the red LED lights from the board down to the buttons on the bottom. These tabs are literally sandwiched between the digitizer and LCD...you'll see what I mean when you separate the broken digitizer/LCD from the housing...there will be 4 clear tabs sticking out from the bottom of the LCD. I did not find any seller that was selling those tabs, and it's quite possible the one you bought won't have them. What this means is...the 4 capacitive buttons along the bottom will still work, they just won't light up anymore. Not a big deal to some. I tried peeling them off my old digitizer and gluing them to the new one...but that didn't come out right at all. And your new LCD/digitizer will already be glued together and you're probably not going to want to separate them just to try and save the buttons.
Secondly, I've used the 3m double-sided roll of tape (like the one linked to above). It'll probably be your best bet...but know that, you could possibly need to redo it after a while of use. I could push on the top of my screen with my thumb, and I would see it kinda "flex" a bit, so the tape wasn't holding all too well. I'd also get fuzz and dirt on the screen of the front camera over time. So do a good, thorough job taping the digitizer/LCD down to the housing.
I lucked out (sort of) because my wife decided to give her Rez a bath and killed it. So I essentially took her digitizer, LCD and housing and use it on my phone.
OH, and don't overtighten the 6 screws for the red back housing! The bottom two screws especially. I did that and it cracked. And be gentle removing the red housing from the camera..sometimes the camera likes to get stuck inside of the camera housing and prying it apart will destroy it.
OpAckTool said:
I replaced the digitizer on mine last year. The process was just a disaster for me (ended up cracking my LCD)...but since yours is coming with the LCD and digitizer already glued together...perhaps you should have some better luck. It won't be necessarily difficult to do...it could just become a pain.
For one...there are clear tabs attached to the digitizer that essentially "draw" the red LED lights from the board down to the buttons on the bottom. These tabs are literally sandwiched between the digitizer and LCD...you'll see what I mean when you separate the broken digitizer/LCD from the housing...there will be 4 clear tabs sticking out from the bottom of the LCD. I did not find any seller that was selling those tabs, and it's quite possible the one you bought won't have them. What this means is...the 4 capacitive buttons along the bottom will still work, they just won't light up anymore. Not a big deal to some. I tried peeling them off my old digitizer and gluing them to the new one...but that didn't come out right at all. And your new LCD/digitizer will already be glued together and you're probably not going to want to separate them just to try and save the buttons.
Secondly, I've used the 3m double-sided roll of tape (like the one linked to above). It'll probably be your best bet...but know that, you could possibly need to redo it after a while of use. I could push on the top of my screen with my thumb, and I would see it kinda "flex" a bit, so the tape wasn't holding all too well. I'd also get fuzz and dirt on the screen of the front camera over time. So do a good, thorough job taping the digitizer/LCD down to the housing.
I lucked out (sort of) because my wife decided to give her Rez a bath and killed it. So I essentially took her digitizer, LCD and housing and use it on my phone.
OH, and don't overtighten the 6 screws for the red back housing! The bottom two screws especially. I did that and it cracked. And be gentle removing the red housing from the camera..sometimes the camera likes to get stuck inside of the camera housing and prying it apart will destroy it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the heads up.
Swapped out the screen (didn't get any 3M tape yet, but I wanted to make sure the screen worked properly / multi-touch was recognized everywhere).
Swapped the screens, re-assembled (managed to leave some adhesive where the lcd/digitizer assembly pulls out of on there, so it sticks, but like what happens with you it flexes just a bit. Will probably order some 3M tape one of these days and take off all of the old adhesive and replace it. Glad you mentioned the issue with the camera getting stuck in the housing; that did happen to me, and I had to work it out of there. The tiny LED board did pop out of it's connector, but I popped it back in easily and it still works fine.
I also didn't put the soft-key light tabs in the new LCD/digitizer (like you said, didn't want to pry the new one apart). Doesn't bother me much anyway, as I had them turned off in my ROM anyway lol.
So far it works well. Won't be my daily again yet until I have some 3M tape to put on there so the assembly is secured in the housing.
Just an update. Got some double-sided tape, and scraped off the old, remnants of the previous tape that was there. Cut new strips to fit where the old ones were, and it fits much more securely now. No screen flex or wiggle anymore. Charging it back up, and thinking about flashing a different ROM now that I have it fixed.
All-in-all, it was a pretty easy fix.
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
The best reason for replacing both is that you won't have to worry about binding them or getting dust between them if you get them together preassembled. As to the rest, I can't say. I know we have a few people here who have done it.
So I found the adhesive strips that I need. It comes as a bulk sheet where you cut them to fit. I am going with replacing only the digitizer. Replacing the LCD screen also would male the process easier however I fear getting a replacement screen that is in worse shape or more poorly made than the original one my phone came with. I know this one has no flaws.
So I have answered my questions already. I'll post here when I done replacing the digitizer with anything that is of interest in case someone else has questions about this procedure.
Thank you for your input shrike1978. Much appreciated.
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check out my thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2189789
I did it not long ago, and was fine. However, I opted to go for the digitizer + LCD assembly, as I didn't want to have to worry about separating the digitizer from the LCD and worrying about dust.
To answer your questions:
1) It's eaiser, takes less time, and you don't have to worry about dust with replacing the digitizer + LCD assembly.
2) Replace the adhesive. I tried reusing it... and it has some flex on it. So I got some new adhesive, scraped the old stuff off, put the new one, and used a heatgun to move the screen assembly around to get it to fit right, and then pressed it down as it cooled to secure it better.
3) Ebay
4) Not sure on this one... not that I know of anyway.
5) If you get the parts from eBay, then they sometimes come with tools (Torx, philips, and a plastic separator tool).
I also linked the video that I used in my thread, so you can look at that. It's pretty straightforward and easy to do. Took me about 45 minutes to just over an hour to do everything, as I was taking my time.
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
etieseler said:
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also purchased the full assembly and was able to switch the new parts onto my Rezound. Unfortunately, the earpiece (the part you listen to when NOT on speakerphone) and the proximity sensor did not work with the new set, and I am swapping it for a replacement. However, I've been inside the unit now 5 times, and I suggest in addition to the tools supplied with the sets (t5, small phillips and separator) you also have a small flathead (helps with starting the split the unit apart and also with pulling and reattaching the vibrator motor) and a long tweezers (invaluable when trying to reconnect the ribbon cables.)
Also, reconnect the MIDDLE ribbon cable (which is slightly twisted and longer) first, then reconnect the top, and don't forget to reapply the insulating tape (been there, done that).
Watch the take apart video on Youtube repeatedly until you can do it with your eyes closed, and be careful, the red plastic does break easily, especially on the corners.
Replaced my digitizer with good success, using new adhesive. Upon first re-assembly the digitizer was popping out of the plastic bezel a bit, but everything worked great, touch, display, everything. So I decided to take apart, add some more adhesive strips. Now the digitizer stays flush.
First boot after 2nd re-assembly, got boot with first vibrate, but no screen on. So I pull the battery to attempt again. Now I receive no vibrate response from power button. When plug into charger, orange light comes on for 5 seconds and then off indefinitely. This happens each time after battery pull+wall charger plugin.
I have tried multiple times disassembling, checking both ribbon cables that plugin to motherboard, appear to connect fine. Visually all other aspects of MB appear fine.
Any ideas anyone? Not sure what may have broke. I should have left well-enough alone, but the digitizer was somewhat spongey to touch on right side of screen and I could see white light shine up... TIA
Each time I pull the batt the orange light will come on solid for 5 or so sec, then off for good. One time even started flashing for a bit like it was charging from full depletion (like it does before it lets you power on). Not sure how to diagnose.
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did not put those pieces of tape back on. In the YouTube video by "injured gadgets," I don't believe they re-covered up those ribbon cable plugins, so I also did not during re-assembly. Should I try that? Or, I assume, my board somewhere has gone bad? (Phone did work just fine after re-assemble, until I decided to take apart again)
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
hgoldner said:
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would go ahead and try putting it back on. There was an earlier post where someone mentioned it was important to put it back on, perhaps he can comment on what can happen if its not on (He said he learned from experience). Perhaps you can PM him.
To be honest, I originally only put the tape back on one connection, but after the second time replacing both the LCD screen and the digitizer, I found the second piece of tape and now both are back on.
What can it hurt to see if that will fix it? Its fairly easy to get to on these phones.
Ed
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
red3razor said:
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
carngeX said:
I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I left it off on one connection for about a week also with no issues. However I did notice roughly a 16th of an inch of copper exposed on the ribbon. I can envision potential issues from that. I'm not sure about your phone, but the jaw connectors on mine would never open on their own. Far too much resistance to open from any vibration or movement. The vibrator motor connection had a better chance of disconnecting on its own than the ribbon cables. I'm sure that tape provides more than just locking the jaw connectors closed. I could be wrong though.
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I remembered and put it on before I powered up.
Dumped down the innertubes from my Asus Transformer TF300T
Just replaced my digitizer two days ago and I must add the difference is like night and day. I noted in a post that I had tripped and fell on it with my knee...lol ..nope.. I threw the damn thing and it hit the wall. Yahhh.. I know stupid lol... Something really pi$$ed me off tho and I kinda lost it.. .poooof....... Anyway, I had about 30 cracks in my digitizer and amazingly it still worked. Replaced it two days ago and it works great.
That factory adhesive is some SERIOUS stuff. I have performed many electronics repairs over the years and this...well...removing the digitizer and applying the new strips in exactly the right size was a royal pain in the a**! You REALLY gotta get that digitizer glass HOT if you want to be able to loosen it. Light heating WONT do squat to it. And the new strips arent even half as strong as the factory stuff. You really need patience and precision here.
Yes, dust ISVan issue where I live. Canned air came VERY useful. Also its good to have isopropyl alcohol and soft paper towels so you can clean any smudges you make on the LCD before reapplying the digitizer glass. Basically it's best to blow air over it quickly as you press the digi down to the adhesive. That makes sure every bit of contaminant is out.
About the ribbon cables, no I didn't reapply the amber tape to the jawbone connectors. Much of their adhesiveness was lost when I pulled them off. And as long as the ribbon cables are seated in properly and the jawbone connectors are securely locked down, they wont come disconnected. The tape is only there as an additional measure to secure the jawbone connectors from unlocking. Unless you drop your phone on concrete a lot, those cables arent coming loose....even then, dropping it wouldnt knock those loose.. Its more secure than you think. As far as the phone NOT working, the orange tape would have NO effect on that. Maybe one of your cables were partially disconnected and shorted out something on the mainboard. Either that, or it is static sensitive. Its possible if anything is CMOS.
ONLY issue I have since the repair is the top of the digitizer keeps pushing up because of the digitizer ribbon cable and where you have to bend and fold it in that groove to guide it behind the LCD . The ribbon isnt pinching down well and acts as a spring on the digitizer glass....adhesive not doing anything for that.
oh, did you all remove and reapply the clear (4 button tabs) at the bottom to the new glass? got mine in (the lights are pink now ...weeee ) Had to use some Gorilla super glue to restick them. That adhesive at the bottom was super strong and somehow they lost their stickiness when I pulled them off.
Digitizer after I finally got it unstuck from the LCD... wheewww damn. Lots of cracks. Thats what happens when the phone face eats the wall.....
So, my 4 soft keys on the bottom have yet out. Would fixing the digitzer get them back to working? My screens just got cracked like 2 days ago too, and I just want to make sure before i do all this and then find out i gotta take it all apart again. Thanks in Advance!
I bought a screen assembly replacement (next time it will be better to buy it complete with the front housing), everything is fine but it seems that the edge of the screen arent stick that well (especially the buttom edge - where the back button etc).
I cleaned the original housing before attach the new screen, include in the edges and I've tight it before install the motherboard and etc...
Anyway right now I've putted insulating tape with pressure on the edges and all over the sceen (attached to the back cover of the device), playing a movie on highest brightness (to make the screen hot) and put it on case that pressure on the edges
What else can I do? it wasn't lift up (the buttom edge, each time its other edge) everytime but its annoying.
I guess next time (if not buying a housing assembly) I should put another adhesive on the edges of the glass, seems their adhesive is not enough...
or should it be like that at the first?
//edit - I've found a thread that describe the same problem:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1277367
You have three chices:
1) Try to repair the phone, again.
2) Ask in the thread you've linked to how to fix it.
3) Take the device to someone who can properly install the screen.
f-r said:
You have three chices:
1) Try to repair the phone, again.
2) Ask in the thread you've linked to how to fix it.
3) Take the device to someone who can properly install the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well seems like its happened because there is no adhesive at the sides and at the buttom...
I'll try to stick some adhesive on these places without disassembly the screen, only under the glass sides/buttom...
What adhesive do I need? is this ok? http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Attachme...707231?pt=AU_Scrapbooking&hash=item5aefa6425f
to do it properly you will need to remove the screen and get a complete new double sided sticker for your screen, the foam in your link will not allow the screen to sit properly flat down