So I dropped my phone today, and it must have fell on the corner good enough that it cracked the screen from the top-left to the middle-right.
Going to replace the digitizer/LCD as a combo since it's a bit easier than replacing just the digitizer.
Ordered this today:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350582267363?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
Watched a couple of the repair videos (specifically this one: http://blog.repairsuniverse.net/how-to-fix-htc-rezound-screen/), and they say that there's adhesive on the back of this assembly as well that you need to pry away from (in the previously linked video, they push the assembly away from the housing from the backside and pry away from the housing/adhesive). My question is... am I going to have to replace this adhesive once I pry the assembly away from the housing? Or should the adhesive that's there be good enough to secure it as long as I don't rip it away very badly?
If I do need to get new adhesive, anybody have any links as to what to get?
Thanks in advance, I appreciate it!
I never replace a screen before. good luck
Bump.
Still haven't done this, as I haven't had time on the weekends yet. Got a GNexus to get me by, but I'm missing my Rezound.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069YNZV2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
doing all this is very tedious work... make sure you get the soft button hinges in correctly or the screen wont sit flat..
agentofchaos said:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069YNZV2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
doing all this is very tedious work... make sure you get the soft button hinges in correctly or the screen wont sit flat..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Should be less tedious since I got the LCD/Digitizer assembly together, so I don't have to replace just the digitizer.
I replaced the digitizer on mine last year. The process was just a disaster for me (ended up cracking my LCD)...but since yours is coming with the LCD and digitizer already glued together...perhaps you should have some better luck. It won't be necessarily difficult to do...it could just become a pain.
For one...there are clear tabs attached to the digitizer that essentially "draw" the red LED lights from the board down to the buttons on the bottom. These tabs are literally sandwiched between the digitizer and LCD...you'll see what I mean when you separate the broken digitizer/LCD from the housing...there will be 4 clear tabs sticking out from the bottom of the LCD. I did not find any seller that was selling those tabs, and it's quite possible the one you bought won't have them. What this means is...the 4 capacitive buttons along the bottom will still work, they just won't light up anymore. Not a big deal to some. I tried peeling them off my old digitizer and gluing them to the new one...but that didn't come out right at all. And your new LCD/digitizer will already be glued together and you're probably not going to want to separate them just to try and save the buttons.
Secondly, I've used the 3m double-sided roll of tape (like the one linked to above). It'll probably be your best bet...but know that, you could possibly need to redo it after a while of use. I could push on the top of my screen with my thumb, and I would see it kinda "flex" a bit, so the tape wasn't holding all too well. I'd also get fuzz and dirt on the screen of the front camera over time. So do a good, thorough job taping the digitizer/LCD down to the housing.
I lucked out (sort of) because my wife decided to give her Rez a bath and killed it. So I essentially took her digitizer, LCD and housing and use it on my phone.
OH, and don't overtighten the 6 screws for the red back housing! The bottom two screws especially. I did that and it cracked. And be gentle removing the red housing from the camera..sometimes the camera likes to get stuck inside of the camera housing and prying it apart will destroy it.
OpAckTool said:
I replaced the digitizer on mine last year. The process was just a disaster for me (ended up cracking my LCD)...but since yours is coming with the LCD and digitizer already glued together...perhaps you should have some better luck. It won't be necessarily difficult to do...it could just become a pain.
For one...there are clear tabs attached to the digitizer that essentially "draw" the red LED lights from the board down to the buttons on the bottom. These tabs are literally sandwiched between the digitizer and LCD...you'll see what I mean when you separate the broken digitizer/LCD from the housing...there will be 4 clear tabs sticking out from the bottom of the LCD. I did not find any seller that was selling those tabs, and it's quite possible the one you bought won't have them. What this means is...the 4 capacitive buttons along the bottom will still work, they just won't light up anymore. Not a big deal to some. I tried peeling them off my old digitizer and gluing them to the new one...but that didn't come out right at all. And your new LCD/digitizer will already be glued together and you're probably not going to want to separate them just to try and save the buttons.
Secondly, I've used the 3m double-sided roll of tape (like the one linked to above). It'll probably be your best bet...but know that, you could possibly need to redo it after a while of use. I could push on the top of my screen with my thumb, and I would see it kinda "flex" a bit, so the tape wasn't holding all too well. I'd also get fuzz and dirt on the screen of the front camera over time. So do a good, thorough job taping the digitizer/LCD down to the housing.
I lucked out (sort of) because my wife decided to give her Rez a bath and killed it. So I essentially took her digitizer, LCD and housing and use it on my phone.
OH, and don't overtighten the 6 screws for the red back housing! The bottom two screws especially. I did that and it cracked. And be gentle removing the red housing from the camera..sometimes the camera likes to get stuck inside of the camera housing and prying it apart will destroy it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the heads up.
Swapped out the screen (didn't get any 3M tape yet, but I wanted to make sure the screen worked properly / multi-touch was recognized everywhere).
Swapped the screens, re-assembled (managed to leave some adhesive where the lcd/digitizer assembly pulls out of on there, so it sticks, but like what happens with you it flexes just a bit. Will probably order some 3M tape one of these days and take off all of the old adhesive and replace it. Glad you mentioned the issue with the camera getting stuck in the housing; that did happen to me, and I had to work it out of there. The tiny LED board did pop out of it's connector, but I popped it back in easily and it still works fine.
I also didn't put the soft-key light tabs in the new LCD/digitizer (like you said, didn't want to pry the new one apart). Doesn't bother me much anyway, as I had them turned off in my ROM anyway lol.
So far it works well. Won't be my daily again yet until I have some 3M tape to put on there so the assembly is secured in the housing.
Just an update. Got some double-sided tape, and scraped off the old, remnants of the previous tape that was there. Cut new strips to fit where the old ones were, and it fits much more securely now. No screen flex or wiggle anymore. Charging it back up, and thinking about flashing a different ROM now that I have it fixed.
All-in-all, it was a pretty easy fix.
Related
Hi,
I recently purchased a HD2 on eBay. It was supposed to come immaculate but unfortunately there are dents on almost all corners. Rest if perfect.
I saw on eBay some chinese sellers selling new housing + battery covers for ~25 USD. So why not replacing the housing then? I decided to give it a try.
Well I have to say that it really did not work like in the videos I saw on youtube. I removed the 4 screws under the battery cover, gently pressed the back of the LCM outward but it really refused to pop out (no even half an inch). I discarded the pry tool (a very thine credit card actually) and even tried using a suction cup on the digitizer to pull it backwards but same problem. It's like the LCM/chassis was glued on the bezel. Phone has never been disassembled before (white sticker and void screw were still both there).
This is strange because in all the videos I saw the LCM/middle chassis was clearly not glued on the bezel. It immediately popped out a bit then you could start prying (and praying!). Ok I know that in those videos usually the phone has already been disassembled before so other attempts require less force to do it again for the recording.
My questions now to all the people who managed to do this. Did this require so much force? Is there a change and is HTC now glueing this part the LCM/middle chassis to the bezel? Any suggestion? Where is for you the best place to insert the pry tool when you start?
Thanks and regards,
Try flexing the plastic bezel above the earphone outwards a little while applying slight pressure to the sticker area on the back. There're two notches above which locks the frame to the pcb.
Hi,
Thanks for your help.
I will try that later.
I guess I might need to find a better pry tool.
BR.
Ok I managed to do it.
This required clearly some force on the pry tool (actually I used two plastic cards : a very thin and flexible one than a credit card). I started the operation above the earphone area.
Applying pressure on the sticker area was stresfull because the LCD immediately reacted to the pressure (hence a risk to break it or damage it). Best was to put two fingers on the sticker area to help the LCM module to pop out but with (almost) no pressure.
I had a doubt and now that I managed to remove the housing it's gone. The antennas (those white stuff you see in both top corners and at the bottom) are glued to the housing.
I prefer to spend a few more bucks to take a housing which has those antennas already in.
BR.
i had a similar frustrating experience to yours in trying to snap the back off the chassis on my hd2 which had a fingerprint on the *inside* of the camera cover glass which i needed to open it to get at.
it sure looks easy in that HTC disassembly video on youtube but the tech there is using a sort of plastic hooked tool for the job, which i didn't have, so i used my thumbnail instead in the same place (the upper left corner, looking at the phone from the front) and it took me a good 20 minutes of applying what seemed like unreasonable pressure to my touchscreen and nearly tearing my nail off to get it to pop out.
those snap-tabs the electronics manufacturers use to hold cases together -- even when they also have screws to do the job -- are one of my all-time pet hates. i usually end up breaking them off.
I will be doing the same thing soon. So the housing you removed has antennas glued to it ?. Thanks for that, I will try get new housing with antenna together if possible.
I replaced my screen a while back and can confirm the main body of the hd2 is glued to the sides of the chassis.
It does come out but with a lot of force but pry the glue lose around the whole chassis first by sliding a thin card right ot the bottom of the case and slowlyu move and pry it upwards with 2 cards one on the top and other on the right after you losend the glue. the top has the wifi adapter n that so be careful bottom has usb so mite break.
honestly i would say don't bother replacing it and just get a gel case or something to hide the damage. there's a high chance of messing the digitizer up and would just cause you more trouble of taking the whole phone apart bit by bit and trust me the components are tiny so easily breakable especially the ribbon cables they decided to use. my honest opinion don't
fallenmonk said:
I will be doing the same thing soon. So the housing you removed has antennas glued to it ?. Thanks for that, I will try get new housing with antenna together if possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yep they are white thin bits glued to the top portion of the case. wifi on left and phone on right if i remember. its been quite a while though since i took my old hd2 apart
Now that I know how to do this I will be easier next time.
Yes antennas are glued in the housing so best is to buy a housing which has antennas already in.
Important note : the antenna which is at the bottom of the housing exists in two different versions : EU or US so check with the seller which one he sells.
BR.
Top left : Amphenol-BT&Wifi-090820
Top right : Amphenol-GPS-090820
Bottom : Amphenol-EU-090828
If T-Mobiles US you need Amphenol-US
sirec said:
I replaced my screen a while back and can confirm the main body of the hd2 is glued to the sides of the chassis.
It does come out but with a lot of force but pry the glue lose around the whole chassis first by sliding a thin card right ot the bottom of the case and slowlyu move and pry it upwards with 2 cards one on the top and other on the right after you losend the glue. the top has the wifi adapter n that so be careful bottom has usb so mite break.
honestly i would say don't bother replacing it and just get a gel case or something to hide the damage. there's a high chance of messing the digitizer up and would just cause you more trouble of taking the whole phone apart bit by bit and trust me the components are tiny so easily breakable especially the ribbon cables they decided to use. my honest opinion don't
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i don't believe it's glued. as far as i can see the the case is held together with screws and plastic interlocking tabs. the trick is to get the latter to unclip.
No glue indeed just notches locking the LCM module to the bezel
Ok case closed
I got my new housing and the replacement went fine. For those who could be interrested I bought it on ebay from the seller forceviewer_uk in China. Everything went perfect so I can recommend this guy.
Do anyone has video or pdf or wtever guide to give the instruction how to disassemble the flyer?(i am thinking to repair the flyer myself) Thank you
Here you go:
www.techrepublic.com/photos/crackin...3?seq=2&tag=content;siu-container#photo-frame
thx, but i have 1 more question, do u know how to remove the digitizer? is it the same way as other smartphone?(use hot gun and remove the digitizer?)
athris said:
thx, but i have 1 more question, do u know how to remove the digitizer? is it the same way as other smartphone?(use hot gun and remove the digitizer?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, there is a note in the techrepublic teardown about it being bonded like a smartphone. You should however be vary careful given the size of the screen more heat (not temperature) is required, and the risk of thermally cracking the underlying LCD panel is correspondingly higher.
Beware! Learn from my adventures.
So, I took apart my wife's HTC Flyer this past week to replace the screen. While the Techrepublic teardown shots are helpful, it's missing about ten steps at the end that involve actually removing the screen. I've messed around with tabletpc's and laptops before but not cell phones so wasn't really prepared for the fact that you have to pretty much take the whole Flyer apart in order to be able to get the screen off. As far as I can tell, no one else has documented taking one of these apart to replace the screen. I will write up something more involved when I get a chance but here's a couple things that I found out about the screen.
1. The part of the screen that you touch with your finger and stylus is not glass! It is a heavy plastic layer that is adhered to the glass digitizer. It is clear with the black around the edge and cutout for the HTC logo. This was the part of my screen that had chips in it. I tried to use a screen repair kit to repair the chips (which I did) but it took off the outer, darker finish in the process. So I moved to the next step, replacing the screen. I didn't know about the outer layer, otherwise that would have been much easier to replace. But, I don't think you can get that part unless you have connections with HTC.
2. The outer layer/digitizer glass comes as one part (along with the n-trig connector). I ordered mine for around $50 on ebay.
3. You will need to take the back off and much of the motherboard to be able to disconnect the n-trig connector.
4. Taking the screen off will take heat. I used a hair dryer but more heat could be better although you have to be careful of the lcd underneath. My digitizer broke while removing and ending up putting a small gouge in the lcd. I was able to fix the lcd well enough, just be careful.
5. HTC used a buttload of sticky tape to secure the glass to the lcd and case. My cheap blue pry tool quickly broke so I ended up using a plastic butter knife to separate digitizer from the case. Once off, I used Goo Be Gone to get rid of all the sticky tape from it. I'm ready to put new tape on but I'm not sure exactly what they used. Anyone have any ideas? It's a black, closed cell sticky tape that is really stringy when it comes to taking off. Most of the stuff I see for sale online seems to be really thin stuff. I picked up some Scotch Outdoor Mounting Tape by 3M that looks to be similar that I am going to experiment with. Anyone know for sure what they used?
6. I put the new digitizer on temporarily to check to see if it worked and it did (yay)! But I still need need to cut all of the tape and put it in the right spot. There are also these little plastic tabs that go on the backside of the screen. They are used to refract light from the led's to light up the outside navigation buttons. Be careful not to lose these. I did, and had to make one. We'll see how I did once I get it back together.
7. I found that there's not a lot of parts out there for these things. At least not compared to cell phones. Now that they're being discontinued, I don't know if that is going to help.
Anyway, I took a few pics along the way and will try to write something up when I get more time. I just wanted to give folks a heads-up on the screen and how it's put together. I can't imagine the View's screen is any different. So whatever they're using for the outer layer isn't Gorilla Glass. Or is it?
UPDATE:
Here are the promised photos of this disaster. I'll add the commentary tomorrow (I'm tired).
Two more comments and I can finally upload my photos.
I need to replace my LCD and Glass...anyone know where I can order these parts...I cant find them anywhere.
Hard to find parts for the Flyer/View which could be a problem. Looks like some is selling an LCD, though on eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PH-LCD-HT-2...360?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27bf8f0390 from my PG41200 using Tapatalk
I purchased mine here and it works great.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260906551668?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Much better price. What kind of tape did you use? Also did you have to replace any of the light reflacting plastic tabs that are used to light the buttons around the outside of the digitizer?
Sent from my PG41200 using Tapatalk
Will a replacement screen for the Flyer work well on a View?
I don't see why not. Except for some of the internals, they are pretty much identical hardware wise.
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
The best reason for replacing both is that you won't have to worry about binding them or getting dust between them if you get them together preassembled. As to the rest, I can't say. I know we have a few people here who have done it.
So I found the adhesive strips that I need. It comes as a bulk sheet where you cut them to fit. I am going with replacing only the digitizer. Replacing the LCD screen also would male the process easier however I fear getting a replacement screen that is in worse shape or more poorly made than the original one my phone came with. I know this one has no flaws.
So I have answered my questions already. I'll post here when I done replacing the digitizer with anything that is of interest in case someone else has questions about this procedure.
Thank you for your input shrike1978. Much appreciated.
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check out my thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2189789
I did it not long ago, and was fine. However, I opted to go for the digitizer + LCD assembly, as I didn't want to have to worry about separating the digitizer from the LCD and worrying about dust.
To answer your questions:
1) It's eaiser, takes less time, and you don't have to worry about dust with replacing the digitizer + LCD assembly.
2) Replace the adhesive. I tried reusing it... and it has some flex on it. So I got some new adhesive, scraped the old stuff off, put the new one, and used a heatgun to move the screen assembly around to get it to fit right, and then pressed it down as it cooled to secure it better.
3) Ebay
4) Not sure on this one... not that I know of anyway.
5) If you get the parts from eBay, then they sometimes come with tools (Torx, philips, and a plastic separator tool).
I also linked the video that I used in my thread, so you can look at that. It's pretty straightforward and easy to do. Took me about 45 minutes to just over an hour to do everything, as I was taking my time.
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
etieseler said:
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also purchased the full assembly and was able to switch the new parts onto my Rezound. Unfortunately, the earpiece (the part you listen to when NOT on speakerphone) and the proximity sensor did not work with the new set, and I am swapping it for a replacement. However, I've been inside the unit now 5 times, and I suggest in addition to the tools supplied with the sets (t5, small phillips and separator) you also have a small flathead (helps with starting the split the unit apart and also with pulling and reattaching the vibrator motor) and a long tweezers (invaluable when trying to reconnect the ribbon cables.)
Also, reconnect the MIDDLE ribbon cable (which is slightly twisted and longer) first, then reconnect the top, and don't forget to reapply the insulating tape (been there, done that).
Watch the take apart video on Youtube repeatedly until you can do it with your eyes closed, and be careful, the red plastic does break easily, especially on the corners.
Replaced my digitizer with good success, using new adhesive. Upon first re-assembly the digitizer was popping out of the plastic bezel a bit, but everything worked great, touch, display, everything. So I decided to take apart, add some more adhesive strips. Now the digitizer stays flush.
First boot after 2nd re-assembly, got boot with first vibrate, but no screen on. So I pull the battery to attempt again. Now I receive no vibrate response from power button. When plug into charger, orange light comes on for 5 seconds and then off indefinitely. This happens each time after battery pull+wall charger plugin.
I have tried multiple times disassembling, checking both ribbon cables that plugin to motherboard, appear to connect fine. Visually all other aspects of MB appear fine.
Any ideas anyone? Not sure what may have broke. I should have left well-enough alone, but the digitizer was somewhat spongey to touch on right side of screen and I could see white light shine up... TIA
Each time I pull the batt the orange light will come on solid for 5 or so sec, then off for good. One time even started flashing for a bit like it was charging from full depletion (like it does before it lets you power on). Not sure how to diagnose.
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did not put those pieces of tape back on. In the YouTube video by "injured gadgets," I don't believe they re-covered up those ribbon cable plugins, so I also did not during re-assembly. Should I try that? Or, I assume, my board somewhere has gone bad? (Phone did work just fine after re-assemble, until I decided to take apart again)
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
hgoldner said:
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
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Click to collapse
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
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Click to collapse
I would go ahead and try putting it back on. There was an earlier post where someone mentioned it was important to put it back on, perhaps he can comment on what can happen if its not on (He said he learned from experience). Perhaps you can PM him.
To be honest, I originally only put the tape back on one connection, but after the second time replacing both the LCD screen and the digitizer, I found the second piece of tape and now both are back on.
What can it hurt to see if that will fix it? Its fairly easy to get to on these phones.
Ed
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
red3razor said:
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
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Click to collapse
I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
carngeX said:
I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
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Click to collapse
I left it off on one connection for about a week also with no issues. However I did notice roughly a 16th of an inch of copper exposed on the ribbon. I can envision potential issues from that. I'm not sure about your phone, but the jaw connectors on mine would never open on their own. Far too much resistance to open from any vibration or movement. The vibrator motor connection had a better chance of disconnecting on its own than the ribbon cables. I'm sure that tape provides more than just locking the jaw connectors closed. I could be wrong though.
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I remembered and put it on before I powered up.
Dumped down the innertubes from my Asus Transformer TF300T
Just replaced my digitizer two days ago and I must add the difference is like night and day. I noted in a post that I had tripped and fell on it with my knee...lol ..nope.. I threw the damn thing and it hit the wall. Yahhh.. I know stupid lol... Something really pi$$ed me off tho and I kinda lost it.. .poooof....... Anyway, I had about 30 cracks in my digitizer and amazingly it still worked. Replaced it two days ago and it works great.
That factory adhesive is some SERIOUS stuff. I have performed many electronics repairs over the years and this...well...removing the digitizer and applying the new strips in exactly the right size was a royal pain in the a**! You REALLY gotta get that digitizer glass HOT if you want to be able to loosen it. Light heating WONT do squat to it. And the new strips arent even half as strong as the factory stuff. You really need patience and precision here.
Yes, dust ISVan issue where I live. Canned air came VERY useful. Also its good to have isopropyl alcohol and soft paper towels so you can clean any smudges you make on the LCD before reapplying the digitizer glass. Basically it's best to blow air over it quickly as you press the digi down to the adhesive. That makes sure every bit of contaminant is out.
About the ribbon cables, no I didn't reapply the amber tape to the jawbone connectors. Much of their adhesiveness was lost when I pulled them off. And as long as the ribbon cables are seated in properly and the jawbone connectors are securely locked down, they wont come disconnected. The tape is only there as an additional measure to secure the jawbone connectors from unlocking. Unless you drop your phone on concrete a lot, those cables arent coming loose....even then, dropping it wouldnt knock those loose.. Its more secure than you think. As far as the phone NOT working, the orange tape would have NO effect on that. Maybe one of your cables were partially disconnected and shorted out something on the mainboard. Either that, or it is static sensitive. Its possible if anything is CMOS.
ONLY issue I have since the repair is the top of the digitizer keeps pushing up because of the digitizer ribbon cable and where you have to bend and fold it in that groove to guide it behind the LCD . The ribbon isnt pinching down well and acts as a spring on the digitizer glass....adhesive not doing anything for that.
oh, did you all remove and reapply the clear (4 button tabs) at the bottom to the new glass? got mine in (the lights are pink now ...weeee ) Had to use some Gorilla super glue to restick them. That adhesive at the bottom was super strong and somehow they lost their stickiness when I pulled them off.
Digitizer after I finally got it unstuck from the LCD... wheewww damn. Lots of cracks. Thats what happens when the phone face eats the wall.....
So, my 4 soft keys on the bottom have yet out. Would fixing the digitzer get them back to working? My screens just got cracked like 2 days ago too, and I just want to make sure before i do all this and then find out i gotta take it all apart again. Thanks in Advance!
Okay, so my Terminator...errr, my son, managed to crack the heck out of his Nabi 2 digitizer screen. The LCD screen is fine and he can still use the Nabi, but I've noticed more and more cracks so I'm sure it's bound to break the LCD.
So, I went on eBay and ordered a piece of glass, but I'm not thinking it's not going to work. It was only like 13 bucks. I had a model number given to me after the fact (at070tn90), and I just looked and I didn't get that one. I'm just hoping it will work.
At any rate, I finally got the Nabi apart, but I've been fearful of removing the connectors for the screen. Can someone PLEASE tell me how to get the screen apart so I can try to replace it when I get the correct glass for it? PLEASE! There are NO Youtube vids for this...tons for the Nexus 7, but nada for Nabi.
Please help...I'm desperate! Thanks so much!!
The likelihood the digitizer isn't cracked is very low.
NABI2 touchscreen layering:
front glass..............thick (glue around outer most edges to frame)
airgap......................very thin (glue around edges)
digitizer glass........thin
lcd............................thick
I tried the same thing but the actual digitizer glass is like 1/10 the thickness of the front panel glass and glued to it on the edges. If the digitizer glass is not cracked, it will probably crack on attempted removal from the front panel. If the digitizer is fully working in-spite of the front glass cracking it may be possible to heat the front assembly up to the point the adhesive allows the glass to just fall out.... but as far as how close the glue melting point is to the melting point of the plastic frame is not something I know. The entire assembly is put together with some super strong double-sided sticky tape. If you can source just the digitizer and glass assembly I'd like to know.
Once one attempts a replacement and it doesn't work is it still possible to get Fuhu/Nabi to replace the screen (at reasonable cost)?
( If not you could just plug in a keyboard/mouse and use the hdmi out... would make a great XBMC server... once the port exists... )
.
Pictures?
oranrene7 said:
Okay, so my Terminator...errr, my son, managed to crack the heck out of his Nabi 2 digitizer screen. The LCD screen is fine and he can still use the Nabi, but I've noticed more and more cracks so I'm sure it's bound to break the LCD.
So, I went on eBay and ordered a piece of glass, but I'm not thinking it's not going to work. It was only like 13 bucks. I had a model number given to me after the fact (at070tn90), and I just looked and I didn't get that one. I'm just hoping it will work.
At any rate, I finally got the Nabi apart, but I've been fearful of removing the connectors for the screen. Can someone PLEASE tell me how to get the screen apart so I can try to replace it when I get the correct glass for it? PLEASE! There are NO Youtube vids for this...tons for the Nexus 7, but nada for Nabi.
Please help...I'm desperate! Thanks so much!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have any pictures of the digitizer and ribbon cable? Also location of the cable and size measurements.
manx_73 said:
Do you have any pictures of the digitizer and ribbon cable? Also location of the cable and size measurements.
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Click to collapse
I already put it back together because he was taking everyone's iPhones to play games on. lol The glass anatomizer (or whatever it's called), had a long thin strip and the LCD had a thicker one. Either way, the glass nowhere near fit. I had a feeling it was going to be too hard to replace anyway; hence the reason I can't seem to find a tutorial on fixing a Nabi.
And yes, Fuhu will fix it for like 85 bucks plus shipping...I only paid 90 for the tablet just recently (Craigslist). Oh well. I guess we'll just let him play till he cuts his finger.
Thank you both so much for your input. I appreciate it
Help replacing Nabi2 digitizer screen...
Any luck on this?
I have a Nabi 2 on which I've removed the broken digitizer. It was a bit more difficult than I had anticipated. I had to keep the heat gun on the glass and avoid heat-damage to the plastic. I used a small knife between the digitizer and the plastic frame. Next time, I may heat and bend a cheap knife into a Z shape to get under the glass without lifting it too much. I did get it out in some large pieces, but am not sure if I could do it intact if it hadn't been cracked.
Anyhow, the LCD looks great, but I can't seem to find the digitizer anywhere. The ribbon cable has a sticker with the following:
EP0700MLM1
12073*A1G.
272
View attachment 2625405
and on the back side above the chip, is:
40-90121-0
EDT REV.C
View attachment 2625413
on the inside glass is:
85701165
View attachment 2625417
The tiny text in the upper-right corner and written in mirror-image is:
XT2DA5A0118-EP0700 B1
I tried running the text through Google and aliexpress.com / alibaba.com, but to no avail. Anyone else have any luck?
Thanks,
Chip Stewart
ChipStewart said:
Any luck on this?
I have a Nabi 2 on which I've removed the broken digitizer. It was a bit more difficult than I had anticipated. I had to keep the heat gun on the glass and avoid heat-damage to the plastic. I used a small knife between the digitizer and the plastic frame. Next time, I may heat and bend a cheap knife into a Z shape to get under the glass without lifting it too much. I did get it out in some large pieces, but am not sure if I could do it intact if it hadn't been cracked.
Anyhow, the LCD looks great, but I can't seem to find the digitizer anywhere. The ribbon cable has a sticker with the following:
EP0700MLM1
12073*A1G.
272
View attachment 2625405
and on the back side above the chip, is:
40-90121-0
EDT REV.C
View attachment 2625413
on the inside glass is:
85701165
View attachment 2625417
The tiny text in the upper-right corner and written in mirror-image is:
XT2DA5A0118-EP0700 B1
I tried running the text through Google and aliexpress.com / alibaba.com, but to no avail. Anyone else have any luck?
Thanks,
Chip Stewart
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am also looking for the same digitizer model any luck? Anyone?
brianbri6 said:
I am also looking for the same digitizer model any luck? Anyone?
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Click to collapse
I am sorry for bringing back an old thread, but has anyone found a source for a proper replacement part for this? I am having a hell of a time finding a replacement part for the digitizer in my nabi2. It's as if nobody makes a replacement for the digitizers with EP0700MLM1 on the ribbon cable. About the only choice I have now is to find a used part, and pray that it also has the same kind of LCD screen within the housing.
--Rex
rex.torres said:
I am sorry for bringing back an old thread, but has anyone found a source for a proper replacement part for this? I am having a hell of a time finding a replacement part for the digitizer in my nabi2. It's as if nobody makes a replacement for the digitizers with EP0700MLM1 on the ribbon cable. About the only choice I have now is to find a used part, and pray that it also has the same kind of LCD screen within the housing.
--Rex
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Click to collapse
I am looking at a few on Fleabay now. You need to take yours apart and compare model numbers with the ones on Ebay. Just search ebay for Nabi 2 digitizer. about 20 results for it, ranging from $25 -65. The $65 one is a complete front panel minus the LCD. just unscrew the top panel and replace, it looks like.
Wow...I'm the original poster...and here I am years later still bothering with Nabi! lol In 2014, I went on Nabi's site and paid $60 to have the digitizer replaced. I never sent the Nabi in because a friend of mine gave me his kid's Nabi to use for parts (he couldn't get it to charge any longer). I took the entire front panel with LCD and digitizer and replaced it with mine. Worked like a charm...until my younger son stepped on it...on purpose! Lil turd! So, here I am again trying to fix the screen, BUT, this time I noted that I needed the LCD and the digitizer (the ribbon on the LCD was breaking off - not sure how that could have happened). At any rate, I ordered both the digitizer and LCD. I replaced them both and it's a no-go...not working. I still have it apart, but I have the cables plugged in, so when I move the screen around, the Nabi screen will come up, but the touchscreen isn't working. I may be sending the digitizer back, but I'm wondering if it's because of how they are lying on one another. Does anyone know if maybe the touchscreen doesn't work if it's too close or too far from the LCD screen. I don't mean by an obvious amount - I mean is there a "specific" amount of space. I am trying to get it in the casing exactly like it was before, but I don't want to do anything permanent until I know it's working 100%.
Also, you can easily and cheaply get the LCD and digitizer for the Nabi now - just stinks you have to order it from China and it takes forever to get here! I can only imagine how long a return/replacement is going to take. Ugh!
Oh, and Nabi has yet to return my $60 bucks...I have spent way too much on this tablet!
I ended up having to match my part number to a used but good part off of ebay. I had ordered several "new" digitizers and they never worked. There seemed to have been a design change somewhere along the line, or some missing information that made mine not work with the "new" parts available at the time.
However, to answer your question, the digitizer will work completely separated from the LCD as long as the ribbon cable is attached (of course). Rather than reassembling everything, I would only connect the digitizer to see if it worked. When I finally found one that worked, I then committed to doing the full repair.
It was a very painful process.
Is it an easy thing to take apart and put bk together if you have never done this before my daughter stood on her Nabi accident it was under her comfort blankie opps screen cracked but works fine she's only 2 ( well advanced for her age) soI dnt want her to use it incase she cuts her tiny fingers doesn't feel sharp but dnt want to risk it can't find any view on u tube still many years on be nice if someone would do one haha
Honestly...
It was a pain in the ass to remove the glass / digitizer from the nabi. If you're not careful--as I was--it is real easy to deform the plastic bezel that the glass / digitizer and LCD reside in. I ended up having to buy a replacement bezel that already had a digitizer and LCD attached to it. The LCD was DOA, but the one from my original was fine, so I begrudgingly transplanted that too.
Test the digitizer FIRST before committing to installing it on the plastic bezel.
Hey!
A few months ago I dropped my SK17 and the screen cracked. Despite being cracked and with pieces falling apart, the screen worked perfectly. Yesterday I dropped my phone again and it stopped responding to touch. The screen looks exactly as before falling but it stopped responding to touch. The soft keys still work. Will replacing the screen solve the problem? I already flashed my phone to an original firmware but it solved nothing. I don't mind replacing the screen and spending a few bucks to get my phone working but I'd like to be sure if the problem's in the lcd.
Well, yeah, your touch digitizer might have hit it's stress breakpoint. Replacing the screen assembly will do the trick.
In case you didn't know, the display and touch glass are glued on the xmp, which makes replacements more expensive than expected. But whatever the cost is, it's better to spend ~35 bucks and restore your phone's full functionality than to keep using it like a brackberry haha.
Be extremely careful if you plan on replacing it yourself. Look around for the best/most trusted repair shop/center if you plan on sending it to someone else for repair. You really don't want to deal with wonky touch response or bad color reproduction because of a cheap replacement part, I know, I've been there.
Thanks, I was thinking in replacing the screen myself. I've already disassembled the phone up to the screen but I didn't took it off. Is it hard to take it off and put the new screen on? Do I have to glue it to the front cover?
Ok, if you have dissasembled the phone and assembled it back successfully, you already know the basic structure, so that's good.
The screen assembly is glued to the plastic + metal frame, and it's pretty hard to pry it apart. Make sure to use non-metallic prying tools and a heat gun (a hair drier will do fine). Using a heat gun gives you a chance to reuse the original double-sided tape, which is strong enough to keep the screen from lifting. Replacing this tape is not a good idea because aftermarket tape is not nearly as strong as the one that came with the phone (unless you manage to get 3M VHB tape).
Once you stuck the screen assembly to the frame, be extra careful when putting everything back in place. The frame has tiny clips which need to be PERFECTLY aligned, otherwise... you'll know it when you get there haha. You can leave the frame in place without the screws, it'll be easier to open it again in case something goes wrong (you wont need to open the phone from the back to access the display)