Related
First, let me say I'm a bit more of a hack than a hacker. My soldering skills are based on a heathkit I built 20 years ago, and my dremel is old an out-of-balance. Still, I'm getting a new car (well, truck, actually) and wanted a good mount to go with my 8525.
Cutting right to the chase, I took an 8125 mount ($35), a martin fields stereo adapter ($10), the dual adapter that came with the kit, an FME male antenna adapter ($10), a radio shack panel mount stereo 1/8" socket ($4), and $1 worth of epoxy, and cut, ground, spliced, soldered, epoxied, and reassembled to get the net result below. Total time was about 2 hours, but most of that was spent running between my office in the house and the workshop to get various tools / drill holes (I have a cheap drill press, which made drilling for certain parts marginally easier).
If I can find another hour, I'll try to write up a step-by-step if anyone is interested, along with a linked list of parts.
I'm very much interested!
Not to burst your bubble but.......
http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=15879&cat=2380&page=1
or
http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=12660&cat=1801&page=1
And they are only 28.00 bucks
fresh801 said:
Not to burst your bubble but.......
http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=15879&cat=2380&page=1
or
http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=12660&cat=1801&page=1
And they are only 28.00 bucks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
those dont have audio out.. and the 2nd one is for the 8125/wizard, not the 8525/hermes... i am very interested in this project since i have one of those cradles laying around from my 8125... never thought about using the Y adapter.. good call since i dont use it for anything else..
fresh801 said:
Not to burst your bubble but.......
http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=15879&cat=2380&page=1
or
http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=12660&cat=1801&page=1
And they are only 28.00 bucks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, aside from the audio out and antenna connector, the more unusual hack in this is the landscape format with the ability to open the keyboard (or, more exactly to leave it open) while it is docked.
Since I'm running short of time this weekend, the key to getting this to work is to open the back of the 8125 cradle and pop off the connector (gently) and remove the glue that holds it in place. You'll need to dremel out the "top" of the cradle to allow the 8525 to fit.
To get the new connector, I just - carefully - stripped the plastic away from the 2-in-1 connector that came with the unit. Of course the connector is in a different place than the 8125, so you have to cut a new one. I used a marble-sized wad of play-doh rolled and flattened into a 1cm x 3cm patty and pushed it gently into the bottom (connector side) of the cradle. Then I gently slid my 8525 into the cradle so that the connector would make an impression in the playdoh. I them removed the 8525 (keeping the playdoh in the cradle) and "marked" the corners of the connector location with a pin (just push thourhg to make a dot). I heated a utility knife (xacto-like) in my gas stove and gently scored from point to point. A dremel with a fine tip then hogged out the area so that the coneector would fit. I also drilled the location for the antenna at this point (same playdoh trick, but just a single pin prick in the center of the hole area).
Now, to secure the conenctors in the right place, I put the 8525 in the cradle, flipped the whole think upside-down, pushed in the connectors into place, and then put epoxy on both connector areas.
***warning*** the epoxy is likely to "leak through" the old connector location, and around the connectors if your holes aren't pretty tight. BEFORE you put the unit in the cradle for the epoxy step, cover the bottom and antenna area with scotch tape, and just cut out the exact connector area with a knife. This will keep any errant epoxy from making the cradle a permanent fixture on you unit!
I did need to use scotch tape to make a "dam" around the usb connector because it was so thin it wouldn't mound up (set too slowly).
Everything else was just connecting up wires (the M-F conenctor was tough to strip cleanle and I broke the ground wire, but just soldered another one on).
HI,
It appears that the usb port on my t-mobile vario is loose and so it does not charge on the mains charger or via the usb cable on a pc.
So the question is:- How do you open it up to replace / repair the usb port?
I had a look through all the threads I could find dealing with usb port, but none dealt with this particular problem.
A "how to" with pictures would be great, but even a step by step would be useful.
many thanks to all who use and help on this site, without it we would all be worse off!!
Regards,
John
(UK)
Replace USB port
Ok, It appears that no one has had to do this yet, or the ones who have are not online at present.
I have managed to work it out.
There are four torx screws holding the back cover on.
Two are easy to get at, they are the ones near the usb port. The only problem is that they are smaller than a size 4 torx driver!! I managed to get them undone using an ordinary flat blade screwdriver of the right size from a kit of mini flat and cross blade screwdrivers.
When you undo one of them it also holds in place the little metal bit which you use to put a necklace strap thorough - don't lose any bits!!
The next bit was a bit tricky but only because I did not know how it came apart!
There is a cover which goes over the section which has the camera in it. This needs to be "uncliped", you need to start the unclipping from the open end section near the battery, as there are two "prongs" which go in under the end near the sd slot.
There are two more torx screws at this end that need undoing as well.
The next bit is not really difficult but it is if you don't want to mark your case!
You have to "unclip" the back from the middle bit of the phone, it is held in place by clips that go from the back section into the middle section. I started at the bottom end near the usb port and just used the small flat bladed screwdrivers I had to ease the two sections apart.
At this point you will probably find a couple of bit are now loose inside between the two sections. One is a long black piece of plastic which is held in place by the one of the torx screws you removed earlier. Try and remember where it came from as it is easier when you put the case back together to know where it goes, than to try and work it out.
The second bit floating around will be the USB port! (If it has totaly come off like mine had).
Now you will probably see that the soldered joints are white and furry, this is because they are what is called "dry joints".
Now if you have a reasonably steady hand, good eyesight (or a good pair of magnifying glasses or something similar), you can see that there are four "legs" made from the metal cover of the usb port which no doubt will have come loose. These will need to be soldered back on to the circuit board again along with the 5 "TINY" usb wire connections. I had to modify my soldering iron tip with a file to make it small enough not to solder them all together!! Once they are securley soldered back in place, you can put your phone back together again!
I was told by two mobile phone shops I went into here in the UK that the phone would have to be sent back to HTC to be fixed. I fixed mine in a couple of hours......
I also noticed that it is possible to buy a replacement USB port on E-Bay for this phone if yours is to badly damaged or you just want to use a new one.
Well, I hope this is of help to someone.
Regards,
John
Does anyone know if there is a third party Touch HD cover with a reset hole, so that we can perform reset wihtout having to remove the back cover?
I usually try to reset by software, but often this is not possible because the device is frozen, in which case I would remove the back cover and take off the battery.
How much more convenience there will be if I can just poke into the reset hold without removing the cover, isn't it?
why not just drill the cover yourself?
What tools do you use for this drilling job? How do you get it at the correct position? Will the paint around it come off if an amateur does the drilling?
I would love one with micro SD card hole. But I would need an extra back cover to have that as backup.
Try it with one of these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Housing-Batte...3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66:2|65:2|39:1|240:1318
It is a relatively simple task drilling a hole, or making a cut-out.
I would suggest buying a spare back cover first though.
You will need;
something like a 2.5mm drill bit (just got HD like an hr ago not had chance to play with it or make measurements), 2 bits of masking tape, a small ruler or measuring tape, something to protect the back when laying it on a suitable surface to drill on.
Accurately measure where the button is in relation to where the hole is to be.
Put the Masking tape either side of the back roughly where the hole will be, then carefully transfer the measurements over on to the back and mark on the tape where the hole will be.
Using a suitable bit, while resting the back on something to prevent scratches, drill the hole.
Please note having a hole may increase chances of dust and lint getting into the battery compartment - you could resolve this by getting a small 10mm square piece of foam (same kind as used in light traps in cameras - its pretty thin).
For the Micro SD cut out, sorry you'll need to ask me later once I've had a chance to have a proper look.
Feel free to PM me
It is a relatively simple task drilling a hole, or making a cut-out.
I would suggest buying a spare back cover first though.
You will need;
something like a 2.5mm drill bit (just got HD like an hr ago not had chance to play with it or make measurements), 2 bits of masking tape, a small ruler or measuring tape, something to protect the back when laying it on a suitable surface to drill on.
Accurately measure where the button is in relation to where the hole is to be.
Put the Masking tape either side of the back roughly where the hole will be, then carefully transfer the measurements over on to the back and mark on the tape where the hole will be.
Using a suitable bit, while resting the back on something to prevent scratches, drill the hole.
Please note having a hole may increase chances of dust and lint getting into the battery compartment - you could resolve this by getting a small 10mm square piece of foam (same kind as used in light traps in cameras - its pretty thin).
For the Micro SD cut out, sorry you'll need to ask me later once I've had a chance to have a proper look.
Feel free to PM me
As above & using my trusty Dremmel in its drill press to get an accurate location.
Although, I'm also not too keen to have an 'open' hole on my case.
For an micro SD cut out cover, suppose you could use a small piece of sheet rubber: leave 2 lugs either side to secure the flap when closed and secure the flap to the back.
Or you could perform something approaching micro surgery and construct a carrier for it that replacesthe bit cut out for the hole.
why not install
holyfox's_poweroff-diamond.cab
ljazzo1 said:
why not install
holyfox's_poweroff-diamond.cab
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Read the first post - he wants this for when the device is frozen and a software reset would not be possible.
iPhoneLCD superior to Blackstone! but Blackstone practical than the iPhone!
I just bought a Boxwave 2500mah extended battery that comes with a extended battery door for my Touch HD and I think its pretty easy & possible to make reset hole for the battery door. You just need a really pointy and sharp exacto knife to puncture the plastic battery door and then just rotate the knife until you get your desired size of the hole. Tried this many times when I was still playing with "Lets Go Tamiya Cars".
About the hole for the microSD card, I think this one will be a little tricky to do because you might hit one of the locks for the door upon modification.
eaglesteve said:
Does anyone know if there is a third party Touch HD cover with a reset hole, so that we can perform reset wihtout having to remove the back cover?
I usually try to reset by software, but often this is not possible because the device is frozen, in which case I would remove the back cover and take off the battery.
How much more convenience there will be if I can just poke into the reset hold without removing the cover, isn't it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi eaglesteve,
If the device is frozen, can't you just reset by holding the power key down for 3 seconds? This should always kill the power, leading to a soft reset when you turn it back on. It's my preferred method for tboth the Blackstone and Diamond products.
mike.waters said:
Hi eaglesteve,
If the device is frozen, can't you just reset by holding the power key down for 3 seconds? This should always kill the power, leading to a soft reset when you turn it back on. It's my preferred method for tboth the Blackstone and Diamond products.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is that the Blackstone requires a touch confirmation and this is usually not possible when the device is frozen.
Hi,like this ?
Marcdu81 said:
Hi,like this ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this is crazy... why are u people drilling the cover when u can slide it out normally ...
Hi,
Where i can find a back cover with reset hole?
Thanx
I think you will have to buy a replacement battery cover and drill a hole in it yourself
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
The best reason for replacing both is that you won't have to worry about binding them or getting dust between them if you get them together preassembled. As to the rest, I can't say. I know we have a few people here who have done it.
So I found the adhesive strips that I need. It comes as a bulk sheet where you cut them to fit. I am going with replacing only the digitizer. Replacing the LCD screen also would male the process easier however I fear getting a replacement screen that is in worse shape or more poorly made than the original one my phone came with. I know this one has no flaws.
So I have answered my questions already. I'll post here when I done replacing the digitizer with anything that is of interest in case someone else has questions about this procedure.
Thank you for your input shrike1978. Much appreciated.
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check out my thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2189789
I did it not long ago, and was fine. However, I opted to go for the digitizer + LCD assembly, as I didn't want to have to worry about separating the digitizer from the LCD and worrying about dust.
To answer your questions:
1) It's eaiser, takes less time, and you don't have to worry about dust with replacing the digitizer + LCD assembly.
2) Replace the adhesive. I tried reusing it... and it has some flex on it. So I got some new adhesive, scraped the old stuff off, put the new one, and used a heatgun to move the screen assembly around to get it to fit right, and then pressed it down as it cooled to secure it better.
3) Ebay
4) Not sure on this one... not that I know of anyway.
5) If you get the parts from eBay, then they sometimes come with tools (Torx, philips, and a plastic separator tool).
I also linked the video that I used in my thread, so you can look at that. It's pretty straightforward and easy to do. Took me about 45 minutes to just over an hour to do everything, as I was taking my time.
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
etieseler said:
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also purchased the full assembly and was able to switch the new parts onto my Rezound. Unfortunately, the earpiece (the part you listen to when NOT on speakerphone) and the proximity sensor did not work with the new set, and I am swapping it for a replacement. However, I've been inside the unit now 5 times, and I suggest in addition to the tools supplied with the sets (t5, small phillips and separator) you also have a small flathead (helps with starting the split the unit apart and also with pulling and reattaching the vibrator motor) and a long tweezers (invaluable when trying to reconnect the ribbon cables.)
Also, reconnect the MIDDLE ribbon cable (which is slightly twisted and longer) first, then reconnect the top, and don't forget to reapply the insulating tape (been there, done that).
Watch the take apart video on Youtube repeatedly until you can do it with your eyes closed, and be careful, the red plastic does break easily, especially on the corners.
Replaced my digitizer with good success, using new adhesive. Upon first re-assembly the digitizer was popping out of the plastic bezel a bit, but everything worked great, touch, display, everything. So I decided to take apart, add some more adhesive strips. Now the digitizer stays flush.
First boot after 2nd re-assembly, got boot with first vibrate, but no screen on. So I pull the battery to attempt again. Now I receive no vibrate response from power button. When plug into charger, orange light comes on for 5 seconds and then off indefinitely. This happens each time after battery pull+wall charger plugin.
I have tried multiple times disassembling, checking both ribbon cables that plugin to motherboard, appear to connect fine. Visually all other aspects of MB appear fine.
Any ideas anyone? Not sure what may have broke. I should have left well-enough alone, but the digitizer was somewhat spongey to touch on right side of screen and I could see white light shine up... TIA
Each time I pull the batt the orange light will come on solid for 5 or so sec, then off for good. One time even started flashing for a bit like it was charging from full depletion (like it does before it lets you power on). Not sure how to diagnose.
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did not put those pieces of tape back on. In the YouTube video by "injured gadgets," I don't believe they re-covered up those ribbon cable plugins, so I also did not during re-assembly. Should I try that? Or, I assume, my board somewhere has gone bad? (Phone did work just fine after re-assemble, until I decided to take apart again)
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
hgoldner said:
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would go ahead and try putting it back on. There was an earlier post where someone mentioned it was important to put it back on, perhaps he can comment on what can happen if its not on (He said he learned from experience). Perhaps you can PM him.
To be honest, I originally only put the tape back on one connection, but after the second time replacing both the LCD screen and the digitizer, I found the second piece of tape and now both are back on.
What can it hurt to see if that will fix it? Its fairly easy to get to on these phones.
Ed
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
red3razor said:
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
carngeX said:
I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I left it off on one connection for about a week also with no issues. However I did notice roughly a 16th of an inch of copper exposed on the ribbon. I can envision potential issues from that. I'm not sure about your phone, but the jaw connectors on mine would never open on their own. Far too much resistance to open from any vibration or movement. The vibrator motor connection had a better chance of disconnecting on its own than the ribbon cables. I'm sure that tape provides more than just locking the jaw connectors closed. I could be wrong though.
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I remembered and put it on before I powered up.
Dumped down the innertubes from my Asus Transformer TF300T
Just replaced my digitizer two days ago and I must add the difference is like night and day. I noted in a post that I had tripped and fell on it with my knee...lol ..nope.. I threw the damn thing and it hit the wall. Yahhh.. I know stupid lol... Something really pi$$ed me off tho and I kinda lost it.. .poooof....... Anyway, I had about 30 cracks in my digitizer and amazingly it still worked. Replaced it two days ago and it works great.
That factory adhesive is some SERIOUS stuff. I have performed many electronics repairs over the years and this...well...removing the digitizer and applying the new strips in exactly the right size was a royal pain in the a**! You REALLY gotta get that digitizer glass HOT if you want to be able to loosen it. Light heating WONT do squat to it. And the new strips arent even half as strong as the factory stuff. You really need patience and precision here.
Yes, dust ISVan issue where I live. Canned air came VERY useful. Also its good to have isopropyl alcohol and soft paper towels so you can clean any smudges you make on the LCD before reapplying the digitizer glass. Basically it's best to blow air over it quickly as you press the digi down to the adhesive. That makes sure every bit of contaminant is out.
About the ribbon cables, no I didn't reapply the amber tape to the jawbone connectors. Much of their adhesiveness was lost when I pulled them off. And as long as the ribbon cables are seated in properly and the jawbone connectors are securely locked down, they wont come disconnected. The tape is only there as an additional measure to secure the jawbone connectors from unlocking. Unless you drop your phone on concrete a lot, those cables arent coming loose....even then, dropping it wouldnt knock those loose.. Its more secure than you think. As far as the phone NOT working, the orange tape would have NO effect on that. Maybe one of your cables were partially disconnected and shorted out something on the mainboard. Either that, or it is static sensitive. Its possible if anything is CMOS.
ONLY issue I have since the repair is the top of the digitizer keeps pushing up because of the digitizer ribbon cable and where you have to bend and fold it in that groove to guide it behind the LCD . The ribbon isnt pinching down well and acts as a spring on the digitizer glass....adhesive not doing anything for that.
oh, did you all remove and reapply the clear (4 button tabs) at the bottom to the new glass? got mine in (the lights are pink now ...weeee ) Had to use some Gorilla super glue to restick them. That adhesive at the bottom was super strong and somehow they lost their stickiness when I pulled them off.
Digitizer after I finally got it unstuck from the LCD... wheewww damn. Lots of cracks. Thats what happens when the phone face eats the wall.....
So, my 4 soft keys on the bottom have yet out. Would fixing the digitzer get them back to working? My screens just got cracked like 2 days ago too, and I just want to make sure before i do all this and then find out i gotta take it all apart again. Thanks in Advance!
I want to install an SD card, but the back plate of the Truesmart... is not possible to remove.
I've used the OEM screwdriver and my own screwdrivers, but I've only managed to undo two screws; the other two are stuck. I think it might be the fact that the grooves of the screws are too flat.
However, does anybody have tips or recommendations to undo these two screws?
There are tiny stickers that say "OK" under a microscope over two of the backplate screws, to prevent tampering and inserting your SD card and having to do warranty replacements. If you didn't remove them first, they are now filling up the inadequate Phillips #000 head slots with plastic sticker.
Throw away the little screwdriver thing it shipped with, unless you need it for stabbing Smurfs.
If you have to drill out the screws, the spare ones shipped with the watch are better quality anyway.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Use a better screw driver. I had to use one of my precision screw drivers to get sufficient grip on the screws to unscrew them.
speedyink said:
Use a better screw driver. I had to use one of my precision screw drivers to get sufficient grip on the screws to unscrew them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Be a bit careful, though, because one of my Sim card Compartment screws was way tight and I used a proper screw driver--and the screw sheared leaving about 1 mm stub in the bottom of the screw thread hole--at least, that is what I think must have happened since the screw in question is now about 1 mm shorter than the other.
I have written a nice letter to Omate, and got an initial reply--but, it's anyone's guess what their remedy will be?? Not a replacement watch I am sure.
Drilling and tapping screws that small is not possible--at least not by me.
I ended up having to apply heat to the screws in the sim cover to remove them. Intresting enough, there was no sign of threadlocking agent when the screws finally came out.
What exact kind of Screwdriver do you need?
I have problems with the standard one that came with the TS. No I want to buy a better one from Amazon or hardware-store.
I have the same issue, the screwdriver that came with the TS is pretty much useless. I was able to remove just one screw and the rest did not budge...
I am really disappointed with the design flaws of this device.
Yep, stock screwdriver is a POS.
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The driver I used is marked P0 - and i think it is this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-66-344M-4-in-1-Pocket-Screwdriver/dp/B0014KMDZ0
I think I bought mine in Tesco, it's pretty handy and better quality than I expected.