As I would like to connect my serial GPS receiver to the XDA in the car I'm trying to source an All in one cable that would provide me with both serial and power connections for the XDA.
I would prefer somthing that has the cigar lighter style plug with associated voltage regulator built in, although if that is not available I could build the regulator myself.
GPS cable
I am just about to embark on this project myself. I have a Garmin GPS III and already have their car power/PC Serial cable.
I got the pinouts for the GPS unit from the Garmin site, and it looks like only TXD, RXD and GND are required. This should make it fairly easy to connect up to the xda, following the pinouts on this site. I'm off to Maplin today to try and get a male 9pin serial and an xda connector, following which I shall get the soldering iron out. The tricky bit will be getting the power from the Garmin cable as well. I'll let you know how I get on.
Failing that, you could try MobilePlanet, a US site that seem to specialise in GPS connectors. However, they make a cable that only supplies power to the PDA, and the GPS has to run on batteries. The link below should take you to the xda/Garmin GPS page. There's another page on the site that covers Magellan receivers.
http://www.pc-mobile.net/gpswp.htm
rgds,
Alex.
Hi Alex 10x for reply,
My main problem is trying to source the XDA plug, one that has not been moulded, so that the power/data cables can be fitted.
Jim
http://www.gomadic.com/ipconplug38s.html
Hallo!
Anyone figured out if pin 19 on the connector still works like described in the pinout? So that if connected to V+ the phone goes to speaker-mode, and if connected to GND it turns to hands free mode for real car kits?
I´d like to modify my GPS cable so that the phone should use its internal hands free... but as long as there is no original car kit there is nothing to look at if it is still wired like for the old ones...
can anyone post the pinout of pda2K ?
and maybe someone know where I can find simple usb cable for it (without the whole cradle)
thanks.
anyone found the pinout for QTEK9090(Blue Angel) yet ?
please share.
I would really like to know too! I've been f*ckin around with it for weeks now trying to get an external speaker and mic working as a carkit.
Anyone please?
I'd also love to know about pin 19... I'm tempted to try it with a 3 way switch but am reluctant to kill my lovely new toy! I'm posting in case asaf_zm is still looking for a cable - you might try searching for +retractable +cable +xda on eBay - I just found loads at around £6 +p&p. Good luck!
Although... I have spent the past night / day trying to get my retractable cable syncing/charging reliably... There are one almighty number of posts on this forum about sync/charge cables and I suggest any people wanting to buy one do a search first! Mine works, sometimes...
There is a real problem with even the slightest resistance in the soldered joints - caveat emptor! Litz wire (the seriously fine wire used in these things) is not the greatest electrical medium on earth....
Additional: I tied pin 19 high (on a 22 pin connector attached to the phone) and dialled it with no apparent result - it didn't seem to do anything!
Has anyone successfully used this pin to tie in auto speakerphone or use it in a carkit?
Hi,
hve a look at the following posts
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=19379
______________
Bombur
I would like to know if anyone has develop or found a kind of cable that is able to link the PDA to an external vga screen. If there is, can I have the website please???
it's not possible the connector in the buttom of the wallaby is serial you cant transfer something which require as much bandwidth as tvout/monitor out over such a slow line
you can get a xda2 and the backpack and you are set
Hi
Please excuse me being a newbie with a slightly odd question
Someone recently gave me an old HTC Himalaya to play with (O2 XDA II). The 'phone had been dropped and wouldn't charge up. Taking the battery out and charging it separately I was able to get the 'phone working fine.
I dismantled it to find that the 22-pin connector for power and data had completely detached itself and it fell out of the case. The pins were badly bent so I soldered power lines directly to the main board and it charges fine.
Now... what I really want to use this 'phone for is the heart of a vehicle diagnostics system (written in Pocket Zeus) so I need a working RS232 connection. I used Bluetooth to transfer a couple of test programs to the 'phone and they are showing that Com 1 won't open, but Com 2 and 3 will.
Can anyone tell me which ports the RS232 connections on the Himalaya match up to? In particular the port on the 22-pin connector. I can hardwire a 9-PIN D serial plug to this connection if I can get the port open.
Many thanks in advance and all help greatly received.
Glenn
(Belfast, N. Ireland)
Hello everyone,
Motivated by my tablet's failing USB connector and the great difficult of importing an original B&N charging dock (I'm overseas right now), I decided to try and see whether I could DIY a charging connector mysef, that would connect to the "quick connector" in the tablet's bottom.
First the good news:
I discovered that a standard 0.1" (2.54mm) PCB header like these has the exact pin size/spacing to make contact with the quick connector. So, no need to "fabricate" a connector from separate pins.
I used a digital multimeter to measure voltage on the pins, with the tablet both on and off, and with a USB charger both disconnected and connected, and apparently pin #1 (counting from the left when holding the tablet in landscape mode and looking at its front) is +5VDC, and pin #2 is GND (pin #3 seems to be a direct connection to pin #2 -- they are always at the exact same voltage --, and pins #9 and #10 seem to be +D/-D, not necessarily in that order).
Now the bad news:
I connected a 5V power supply to pins #1 and #2 as above (ie, +5VDC to pin #1 and GND to pin #2), but the tablet doesn' t react in any way (doesn't light up and show the "charging screen" when powered off, nor shows the "lightning bold" charging indicator in the battery icon in the notifier when powered on).
I tried changing GND to pin #3 (see above), with the same lack of results.
The moderately good news is that my attempt did not "fry" anything, the tablet kept working the same as before.
Does anyone have any more info on this "quick connector", or perhaps a better "solution" to my failing USB connector issue (I would be willing to disassemble and replace the USB connector, but I've searched Youtube and iFixIt to try and find a how-to-disassemble video, to no avail. The best I could find was these "internal photos" from the tablet' s FCC submission, but it doesn't show how to open it, and I see no screws nor anything -- not willing to try prying it open at the seams and risk cracking the case or worse).
Thanks in advance,
-- Durval.
Durval,
I came here from your posts on the GitHub issue. You've done some interesting work so far!
It's interesting that you found the pins are just like USB. I wonder if the Nook uses some sort of protocol to negotiate charging over the Pogo pins, like Apple devices put a resistor across the D pins IIRC.
I know someone who's replaced the battery so they might be able to guide you with opening the device. Their discord channel is here (they also posted in the GitHub issue). You might be able to buy a cheap Micro USB port and solder it into the board.
tgp1994 said:
Durval,
I came here from your posts on the GitHub issue. You've done some interesting work so far!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear you like it!
tgp1994 said:
It's interesting that you found the pins are just like USB. I wonder if the Nook uses some sort of protocol to negotiate charging over the Pogo pins, like Apple devices put a resistor across the D pins IIRC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It could be. I also remember that a long time ago (like, 2008) I had an original (pre-Android) Motorola Razr which wouldn't charge except in a computer or with Motorola's own charger. I was thinking of full-blow USB connect negotiation... but you are right, it could be just a resistor or something.
I'm just not too keen on connecting more 'stuff' into those pins by trial and error, specially the supposed D+/D- things... I've managed to not fry the device so far, but one never knows when one's luck is running out until it finally does...
tgp1994 said:
I know someone who's replaced the battery so they might be able to guide you with opening the device. Their discord channel is here (they also posted in the GitHub issue). You might be able to buy a cheap Micro USB port and solder it into the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many thanks for the Discord link! I will be sure to contact them and learn what I can re: opening the device.
Cheers,
--
Durval.
Just keeping the thread posted: I posted a similar question on the Discord server linked above, here's what I got:
Ryzen5-3600 | iPhone 12 Pro Gold — Today at 9:13 AMIt's really difficult to open the Nook Tablet. Mine had a cracked screen so it was easier to open up the device. The screen is made out of this really cheap plastic, it breaks so easily. My guess is to get like a small plastic guitar pick and pry open the back.
[9:14 AM]
You might have to get like 3 or 4 for safe measures to help keep it open so it won't close shut again
So, I think it's better to refrain from trying and opening my Nook, at least for now ;-)
I'm trying to get a dock, when/if I get one I will open it and see for myself what the heck it does to make the Nook recognize it.
I will keep this thread posted.
Cheers,
-- Durval.
Two years late to the party, but I recently purchased two of the 10.1" nook keyboard covers @ my local B&N for $5 each, to play around with. If my suspicions are correct, and this keyboard controller outputs USB, the first four pins left to right should be GND, (I assume D+, D-), then I assume VCC.
I might be wrong. But I'm fairly confident that GND is pin 1- continuity between the pin and the ground pin on the keyboard controller PCB.
hugoyhu said:
Two years late to the party, but I recently purchased two of the 10.1" nook keyboard covers @ my local B&N for $5 each, to play around with. If my suspicions are correct, and this keyboard controller outputs USB, the first four pins left to right should be GND, (I assume D+, D-), then I assume VCC.
I might be wrong. But I'm fairly confident that GND is pin 1- continuity between the pin and the ground pin on the keyboard controller PCB.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you have any luck? I bought the same keyboard for $4 at my B&N and just tore it apart. Turns out it only uses 5 of the 10 pins. The white box in the pic was pulled off so it originally did fit slightly more forward. Hopefully you can tell where it's supose to go.