I had a BIG problem with a third party battery charger (RIMAX).
It is a Car charger and a wall mount charger, with USB plug and cable, but IT WORKS ONLY WHEN THE WIZARD IS ON! If the battery goes down for some reason and the phone couldn't turn on, you're lost! :evil:
So, the lesson learned is: before travelling without your original charger check if the one you have could charge the wizard also when is OFF and not only in stand-by mode!
I also have a strange issue with a third party car charger - after plugging in the car charger I have to switch the universal off then on again to make it charge...very wierd!
I've also got one of those, though would prefere one with a bit of cable in the middle to reduce stress on the connector.
Have you checked the amp output on the chargers. They're probably putting out 0.5 amps (USB spec). If you look at the wall charger that came with the wizard, it puts out 1.0 amps. That's why when your battery is completely dead, the 0.5 amp charger can't put enough juice into it to get the battery up to a high enough level.
Actually, according to the USB spec, a device is not supposed to consume more than 100mA without being recognized by the USB host. That is, the USB host is only going to give your phone 100mA until the phone says, "hey, i'd like 500mA, please!"
Sometimes manufacturers may shortcut this and just allow the port 500mA at all times, but a standards-conforming one won't.
This MAY be part of the reason why we have problems charging a completely dead Wizard -- it's only going to get 100mA until the device has enough juice to wake up and request more.
This MAY be part of the reason why we have problems charging a completely dead Wizard -- it's only going to get 100mA until the device has enough juice to wake up and request more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah! - That's the problem I had yesterday - had left my Vario on with TomTom draining away the battery and forgotten about it on Saturday night, had just spent the day moving house and everything was in chaos and had no idea where the charger was.
So when I realised it was dead on Sunday whilst out in the car, I plugged it into the car charger that came with my GPS unit, which I have used to charge the phone many times before - but it would not charge, no light, nothing!
When I got home all I could find was the mains charger for the GPS and a USB cable - tried both and none would put any charge into the phone.
By this stage I was shi**ing myself that the phone, which I got mainly for GPS for travelling around Germany in June, was DEAD - with 3 weeks to go!
of course later in the day, once I had eventually found the proper charger, it took a slight pause after being plugged in and then the little orange light of joy came on and brought me salvation!!!!!
I suspected it might have been something like the previous poster said but not being very technical I really didn't know!!
Thanks.
I've had the same frustrating experience. When the battery is very low or dead the only charger that will work is the original adapter, not the car charger or cradle or pass thru my laptop. As I result I have to carry the original adapter whenever I travel and I often wake up with a dead Wizard if I dont realize how low the battery is when I park it in the cradle.
Very frustrating. I dont understand why Boxwave doesnt use a beefier adapter connected to the cradle.
I've had the same frustrating experience. When the battery is very low or dead the only charger that will work is the original adapter, not the car charger or cradle or pass thru my laptop. As I result I have to carry the original adapter whenever I travel and I often wake up with a dead Wizard if I dont realize how low the battery is when I park it in the cradle.
Very frustrating. I dont understand why Boxwave doesnt use a beefier adapter connected to the cradle.
I've had the same frustrating experience. When the battery is very low or dead the only charger that will work is the original adapter, not the car charger or cradle or pass thru my laptop. As I result I have to carry the original adapter whenever I travel and I often wake up with a dead Wizard if I dont realize how low the battery is when I park it in the cradle.
Very frustrating. I dont understand why Boxwave doesnt use a beefier adapter connected to the cradle.
Related
Does anybody charge their TyTN in car via a usb car charger. I use a usb car charger for different devices: Bluetooth headset, gps reciever...
I also used it to recharge my Blue Angel.
Unfortunately I can't charge the TyTN. Has anyone had the same issue?
The charger says that it can charge 1Ampere. The original home charger is also 1 Ampere, so I don't understand why it doesn't work.
Have tried it with two different usb car chargers and both have the same problem: It charges only if TyTN is turned off. When I switch it on then the red charging light turns off.
Lio said:
Does anybody charge their TyTN in car via a usb car charger. I use a usb car charger for different devices: Bluetooth headset, gps reciever...
I also used it to recharge my Blue Angel.
Unfortunately I can't charge the TyTN. Has anyone had the same issue?
The charger says that it can charge 1Ampere. The original home charger is also 1 Ampere, so I don't understand why it doesn't work.
Have tried it with two different usb car chargers and both have the same problem: It charges only if TyTN is turned off. When I switch it on then the red charging light turns off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had similar problems except I didn't need to swithc the pda. I saw the usb charge couldn't charge completly or it was very slow to charge if I had screen with light or TomTom running.
I solved using a diferent charger, that generates 220 volts. It has 140W and costs around 40 euro.
Do you have a link, a picture or a brand name to this product?
Lio said:
Does anybody charge their TyTN in car via a usb car charger. I use a usb car charger for different devices: Bluetooth headset, gps reciever...
I also used it to recharge my Blue Angel.
Unfortunately I can't charge the TyTN. Has anyone had the same issue?
The charger says that it can charge 1Ampere. The original home charger is also 1 Ampere, so I don't understand why it doesn't work.
Have tried it with two different usb car chargers and both have the same problem: It charges only if TyTN is turned off. When I switch it on then the red charging light turns off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same problem.
I was told by the dealer that it's a matter o cable (the pins in the cable)
the one sold with the device is fine just to sync and charge from pc, but can't charge through car adapter.
I'm bought a new cable (arriving next week): it's a double cable, one side for pc, other side for charging.
if it works, I'll post..
bye
I'm afraid to tell you that your new cable will not work. You were not well informed. I am sure that it is not a cable problem, but a charger problem. According to me the power output expressed in Amps (Ampere) is not strong enough even though it says that it's 1 Ampere as the mains charger. Those cheap chinese made chargers are not strong enough for the TyTN. That's why it charges when the TyTN is switched off but as soon as you switch it on, the power output from usb car charger is not enough.
Lio said:
I'm afraid to tell you that your new cable will not work. You were not well informed. I am sure that it is not a cable problem, but a charger problem. According to me the power output expressed in Amps (Ampere) is not strong enough even though it says that it's 1 Ampere as the mains charger. Those cheap chinese made chargers are not strong enough for the TyTN. That's why it charges when the TyTN is switched off but as soon as you switch it on, the power output from usb car charger is not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
mmhhh, I'll wait the new cable, hoping it works ;.)
the fact is that with original cable the car adapter doesn't charge even if the device is off..
same thing with a 220V usb adapter.
only the original kit seems to work..
I'll tell you in a few days
btw: both adapter are chinese ;-)
Nope, Lio is right on this one. The car charger simply doesn't supply enough juice to charge the TyTN. O2 Exec users have had this problem for ages.
I use the charger bought from the Orange shop for the spv c500. Works fine, if a little slowly.
There are strange things happening!
The USB cable should not enter in to the equation as USB is USB and the pins should be wired correctly.
Here is what I have found.
If charging in the car all is ok until the power is cut, then it only charges whilst off until the TYTN is soft reset. This looks to me like there is a software / powercontroller confilct. It is a little confusing but see the scenarios below;
Soft reset TYTN, leave it off. Plug in to cigarette charger, turn TYTN on/off all is fine.
Turn off TYTN and unplug, all is fine, plug back in (TYTN off) will still charge when TYTN on.
Turn TYTN on, unplug, will not charge whilst on anymore until soft reset but will charge whilst off.
This is the same if I turn the ignition to power the lightere socket.
However, another spanner in the works, if I pull out the charger even with the device off and re-insert it it stops charging until soft reset.
What seemd to work best was to do a soft reset whilst the unit is charging and powered on. After that I was able to unplug, plug in even when the unit was on, turn ignition off/on etc... It only reverted back to not charging when I removed the charger from the socket as it was charging.
These are my findings and I presume each charger will be different.
I presume whatever electronics are in the chargers also causes problems. I have tried 2 USB and one fully wired charger and it is the same with all. I know for a fact that at least 2 of them have overcharge circuitry built in but do not think the 3rd has, I also presume the TYTN also has so perhaps there is some conflict here also.
I do know that there are car chargers specifically for the TYTN so will try one of those and see if it solves the problem. (anyone tried one?)
Anyone with more ideas please let us know.
What seemd to work best was to do a soft reset whilst the unit is charging and powered on. After that I was able to unplug, plug in even when the unit was on, turn ignition off/on etc... It only reverted back to not charging when I removed the charger from the socket as it was charging.
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Click to collapse
Thank you for this tip. Now I can recharge in car thanks to u! :lol: I tried it and it works.
Great Lio,
Glad it worked. When you get a chance, could you pull out the chrger from the lighter socket as it is charging and let me know if it then stops charging again. I just want to see if the same happens to you as it did to me. It will work again once you soft reset whilst plugged in.
Thanks.
cieplowski said:
What seemd to work best was to do a soft reset whilst the unit is charging and powered on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe this trick should go to FAQ.
A week ago I visited a lot of shops trying many mains-to-USB charges to no avail. I already had one for MP3 player that didn't work too.
After reading your post, I connected the original charger and SRed. Now that another charger works!
Can't imagine what's the reason but it really works.
cieplowski said:
could you pull out the chrger from the lighter socket as it is charging and let me know if it then stops charging again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it does exactly like you've described.
Originally Posted by cieplowski
could you pull out the chrger from the lighter socket as it is charging and let me know if it then stops charging again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here.
Is this a bug in the software ?
I found this : http://www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=138248
I think it should work fine, I am not sure.
"I found this : http://www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=138248"
Could you contact them and ask about its power rating and whether it is susceptible to the problem/bug?
here I am again.
finally I got the new cable and... surprise... IT WORKS
I used it without soft resetting the device and it worked
I tryed soft resetting the device and it worked
But the biggest surprise of all is that after using the new cable, also the old one started working ..
i guess there must have been a software bug that has gone (hope forever) away.
For those interested, the new cable is a double one: one side is usb, other two sides are charge connector and hotsync connector.
pix09 said:
here I am again.
finally I got the new cable and... surprise... IT WORKS
I used it without soft resetting the device and it worked
I tryed soft resetting the device and it worked
But the biggest surprise of all is that after using the new cable, also the old one started working ..
i guess there must have been a software bug that has gone (hope forever) away.
For those interested, the new cable is a double one: one side is usb, other two sides are charge connector and hotsync connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
have you got a web link for this one you now have?
friend of mine has apparently got a tytn, I'll pick up a 1.2A USB / Car adapter this weekend and see what happens, hopefully the extra .2A should enable the tytn / exec to charge normally in a car.
Having had an exec for a while I will agree that most 12v/USB adapters struggle with the exec, but hopefully this will make the difference, if it works I will post the details of the company selling them (they are listed for the PSP)
I haven't had this trouble. Just got my new MDA Vario II and I've used it with my old MDA compact mains charger and the car USB charger and it works with no problems.
Tried it with the Vario II on and off and have a charging light on both.
Hello,
I went through two car chargers and found out that they are not really charging, or if they are its very super slow. I also found the same thing happens when active sync is on. I know on kaiser there is an option that enables/disables charging, but no option exists on AP3.0. So, is there a trick to this or what ?
Thanks.
I have found that you need a specific charger for the Advantage to get anything above trickle charge. On an Advantage, trickle charge is not enough to charge the device whilst it is in use i.e. it will still discharge even if a little more slowly. I initially used an HP charger from another device with the Advantage in my car and this is exactly what happened. I got a proper one for the Advantage and the device charges without difficulty even with all the radios, GPS, etc. on. This proper charger was not HTC badged but was designed for the Advantage. I am sure it is something to do with clever circuitry in the device or the charger that switches charging to trickle if it doesn't recognise the device it is connected to.
Hope this helps.
Tech Blog: www.alastairdelaney.com
What charger did you get? Any source is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
marek101 said:
What charger did you get? Any source is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe you need to make sure the charger puts out 1.5 Amps. Somebody know if this is correct? My Dell Axim needed that much to charge and run GPS.
Brad
Hi there,
I bought the charger in the following link:
http://www.easydevices.co.uk/pp/HTC_Accessories/HTC_Advantage/HTC_ADVANTAGE_CAR_CHARGER.html
Cheap, and worked perfectly. I also bought the car mount from here.
no wonder, why my phone seems never to charger
I just use an inverter and the normal adapter with mine Cost me £20 a couple of years ago, but means I can charge my ameo, laptop, phone, or any other device I choose using standard charger. Saved me loads in the long run
the designed charger for the Ameo is 1 amp, a usb car, charger will only be about 0.5 amp, this is probably why its slower. I can charge my niki no problem, but my ipaq and ameo take all day in the car. I think inverters are on special at maplin at the moment. probably a cheaper way for me to charge everything in the car.
I had this problem and bought the following charger, it works a treat !
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-AMP-IN-CAR-...photoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262
sometimes if your charger is aftermarket it dosen't work. happens with me with mp3 playerz too
guys the charger has to be 2 amp and better for u to maintain a charge while running everything (gps, bluetooth, wifi) especially if u get hsdpa signal. Oh this is my first post ever from the Advantage.
tootallk2000 said:
guys the charger has to be 2 amp and better for u to maintain a charge while running everything (gps, bluetooth, wifi) especially if u get hsdpa signal. Oh this is my first post ever from the Advantage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually disagree, I can do all that while being plugged into a regular electric outlet and the output rating for that charger is 5V 1Amp. So a 1A Car charger will do just fine.
marek101 said:
I actually disagree, I can do all that while being plugged into a regular electric outlet and the output rating for that charger is 5V 1Amp. So a 1A Car charger will do just fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi
I Disagree, Because i have bought two car charger with 1Amp both did not worked. Then i bought a 2Amp car charger it worked perfectly.
Therefore i think it will need 2Amp car charger to charge and give power to GPS, Bluetooth, etc. 1Amp may charge your Athena but it need to switched off(put into standby)
Thanks
This question has been discussed before in this forum. Look at this thread.
Put special attention to post #5. It seems that HTC uses one pin of the mini-usb connector (it has 5 pins while standar usb connector need only 4) to differentiate between charger and sync.
If the charger does not have this pin configured correctly , the athena thinks that it is a connection form a PC and does not start the fast charging.
Other option is to use a special adaptor like the one from PPC Tech (PPC Techs HTC Advantage Lil Sync DUO Mini-5 USB Adapter avaliable on expansys), that allows you to enable fast charging with any charger (minimun 1A). I have used it successfully with several car chargers.
Reminds me of this discussion http://www.modaco.com/content/HTC-Typhoon-Variants-Typhoon-MoDaCo-com/115090/Car-Charger/
Still doesn't charge enough even w/ HTC charger
Yes. The pin configuration is different for the Athena. Yes, it needs higher amperage to charge. However, even when taking all these things into account, there's still a problem.
I bought the HTC car charger precisely to avoid the problem of undercharging / pin misconfiguration. Yet, I still have problems. Whenever I drive long distances (4 hrs +, vacation, etc.), I generally have the gps running along with bluetooth for my ear piece (in case of phone calls), and I have an mp3 player going for tunes (running off the MD). Since it's generally a bright, sunny day, I also have the screen at full brightness (otherwise you can't see it at all.) Even with the HTC charger which is listed as the one designed for the Athena, my unit will die within 4 hours.
I realize that this is alot of juice, but it still annoys me that the charger can't keep up with the unit it was designed for. I imagine it wouldn't last that long if I had the gprs and/or wifi (not that I'd have wifi going while I drive anyway) running, too.
My question is: Do you think it's the screen or the MD which is sucking up all the juice? I've taken to letting the screen shut off (an option on many mp3 players), if I'm on the freeway and don't need the gps for a while. But to be honest, I haven't taken any really long trips to test this approach.
BTW, it's not a problem with the charger. I've got 2 of them, and the same thing happens with both.
pkchainsaw said:
Yes. The pin configuration is different for the Athena. Yes, it needs higher amperage to charge. However, even when taking all these things into account, there's still a problem.
I bought the HTC car charger precisely to avoid the problem of undercharging / pin misconfiguration. Yet, I still have problems. Whenever I drive long distances (4 hrs +, vacation, etc.), I generally have the gps running along with bluetooth for my ear piece (in case of phone calls), and I have an mp3 player going for tunes (running off the MD). Since it's generally a bright, sunny day, I also have the screen at full brightness (otherwise you can't see it at all.) Even with the HTC charger which is listed as the one designed for the Athena, my unit will die within 4 hours.
I realize that this is alot of juice, but it still annoys me that the charger can't keep up with the unit it was designed for. I imagine it wouldn't last that long if I had the gprs and/or wifi (not that I'd have wifi going while I drive anyway) running, too.
My question is: Do you think it's the screen or the MD which is sucking up all the juice? I've taken to letting the screen shut off (an option on many mp3 players), if I'm on the freeway and don't need the gps for a while. But to be honest, I haven't taken any really long trips to test this approach.
BTW, it's not a problem with the charger. I've got 2 of them, and the same thing happens with both.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have problem like yours. I always have my backlight adjusted to the brightest. I keep all my applications on MD (which means it's spinning most of the time). With GPS running and music playing, my device will give charged to the fullest and stay that way very very quickly. I use the standard HTC charger. Only thing is I don't use bluetooth, so I'm not sure how much this would influence it.
Don't know what the current is, but my Brodit Active mount charges my Athena quickly even with everything turned on- used mainly for Sat-Nav with screen on full bright/ no sleep during day.
Trickle charge from the PC USB takes forever!
NeilM said:
Don't know what the current is, but my Brodit Active mount charges my Athena quickly even with everything turned on- used mainly for Sat-Nav with screen on full bright/ no sleep during day.
Trickle charge from the PC USB takes forever!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same experience with the Brodit.
I’m using the supplied HTC car charger, for an hour journey,
with only backlight full and GPS it charged but very small increment.
I purchased a new vent holder with a car charger, and it charges the phone up OK when it is off, but if it is on it says charging but does not actually charge. This is especially annoying with Satnav and after an hour or two the phone dies and I don't know where I am going!
Anyone know what causes this? I guess it can't provide enough power for the device, especially when using the internal GPS, but I think it doesn't even keep up with the device is just turned on.
I am getting another charger just in case, but never had the problem on my old Touch....
..
try -> start/settings/system tab/power/battery tab - uncheck the box "when the device is turned on...."
It isn't ticked...
..
try ticking it..
That will have the opposite effect, it charges fine when plugged into the wall, the problem is something to do with the car.
Does anyone use satnav on a touch HD and have it charge at the same time?
Well there could be one or two issues.
On the USB port there are four connections, a positive and a negative and two data pins. When you plug your Touch HD into a PC power is supplied down the power pins and after negotiating with the USB controller chip over the two data pins the phone will pull up-to 500mA from the power supply to run and charge the phone. This is so the USB port on the PC is not damaged by the phone overloading the power supply to the port.
Without the negotiation with the USB controller chip the device will only charge at 100mA.
But 500mA is not enough to charge the phone with everything running, you will need at least 1000mA to do that (1 Ampere). So that is what your wall charger pushes out. But how does the phone know it can charge at a higher rate? Well inside the charger the data pins on the USB connector are wired in a way that the phone 'sees' that a higher current is available, and pulls a higher charging current.
So what you need is a minimum current 1 Amp car charger. If you already have a 1 Amp then the chances are that is does not have the data pins connected properly and the phone will not draw the higher current, meaning it will only charge at 100mA.
Thanks, I am going to try another one and see if that helps, perhaps it is just faulty, otherwise I will check if it is 1Amp.
Cheers.
I contacted the seller and they sent me a new one, which works. So it turns it my charger was just faulty.
What's the rating of the new one? and where did you get it from. I bought a 2amp (supposedly) but it doesn't give me more than 500mA.
I've had this problem and it sucks! As I'm always out on the road. But I have found a few solutions. I purchased a mini usb charger from asda for £6. After adjusting the backlight to medium this charger seems to keep the power level the same as it was before you plugged it in, so It doesn't let the battery go flat. I've now learnt to keep a spare charged battery in the car just in case it fails.
Hey guys,
I was wondering if these USB car chargers are compatible for the TP2?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Dual-2-Ports-US...Accessories?hash=item518f99b7a9#ht_3242wt_958
and
http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-Car-Cigarett...wItemQQptZPDA_Accessories?hash=item3a567814a2
and
http://cgi.ebay.com/Silver-Mini-Uni...Accessories?hash=item414bbc871c#ht_2000wt_958
I'm asking because I remember in the past I used a HTC charger to charge the O2 XDA Flame and it charged. However, the phone started acting VERY weird and freeze a lot. I ended up having to hard reset it
Thanks!
I think any USB charger for electronic gaget that has a output of 5.0 v should work. It does not matter if it is an AC charger or and car lighter charger. I got one of these AC and another car lighter charger. There are all 5.0 v output. I use them to charge Ipod and phones.
chompx2 said:
I think any USB charger for electronic gaget that has a output of 5.0 v should work. It does not matter if it is an AC charger or and car lighter charger. I got one of these AC and another car lighter charger. There are all 5.0 v output. I use them to charge Ipod and phones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you
It's best to choose one that can supply enough current (I think the wall charger supplies 2A, but 1A should be ok). Some devices will still trickle charge with a lower current, but others just won't trigger the charging circuits at all.
I had a cheap car charger that seemed to work ok most of the time, but it got worryingly hot after a while.
My TP2 came with an official HTC charger, so I use that now and it's great.
I have noticed that if the phone is OFF then 1A is not enough and usually stops charging but if the phone is ON it completes the charge..but takes for ever.
Has anyone experienced the charging overheat situation where the led flashes orange and green? I dont know if that is the situation but it only happens when I am charging in the car and the unit gets hot.
My old "OEM HTC" charger I got on ebay (the one with the blue HTC light) just stopped charging my phone after about 10-15 uses.
It lights on (charger), but my phone doesn't catch any charge lol
I got a 1A one, and unfortunately it cannot produce enough juice when running the GPS (copilot), after a while the phone shows a message telling the charge current is not enough.
The wall charger that came with the original box is 1A too, thus the problem might be with the cheap car charger.
Brando sells a 2A car adapter that should do the trick. They're out of stock right now, but it may be worth a look.
Hey!
Mine is a cheapo but does the trick. Charges the phone with satnav running, today went from 23% to full in less than 3 hours. Plus it's really tiny so I can keep my ashtray closed all the time. Using it with mini retractable cable, it all fits in the ashtray and it's handy to use.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Micro-Nano-Ti...daptors_SM?hash=item5638c26773#ht_1747wt_1165
3waygeek said:
Brando sells a 2A car adapter that should do the trick. They're out of stock right now, but it may be worth a look.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The manual states that the output of the AC charger is 5.0 volts and 1 amp. That means the output of the DC/car charger should be the same. Using a 2 amp current might be charging the device faster but it would probably generate more heat and might shorten the battery life.
one tip, regardless of which charger you end up with, is to not leave the phone plugged in while starting the car. my understanding is that there can be be large voltage surges or fluctuations during the startup. depending on the design on the voltage converter inside the charger, some of that may be making it through to the phone.
i once had a AA NiCd battery smart charger that went wonky after using it in the car a lot, but that was with a straight-through 12V car to charger connector.
I made my own charger for using as a GPS on my motorcycles.
There is a charge select line in the plug. If the phone detects that it is connected to a USB port, the phone will not 'pull' more the 500ma. If that line is set to indicate a non USB port, then the phone will pull 1 amp. MAX (I never saw more then 900ma myself).
If you have the wrong charge plug, it may only charge at 500ma. If you have the correct plug and the charger can manage 5 amps, the phone will still only take 1 amp max.
For a while I used the phone in a waterproof box called an Aquabox. It would overheat during charging. I now only charge the phone when it is not in an enclosed hot space.
I'm still using the off-brand 'for Blackberry' car charger I got back when I had my Kaiser. Seems to be working just fine with this phone as well.
I've got a strange issue. When charging with my stock AC adapter, it charges about 40%/hr (according to Gsam). If I try a 2A charger I can get over 60%/hr. I have three car chargers, I notice each one charges at more like 5-10%/hr. When using Navigation with the screen off, I discharge at around 20%/hr. With the screen on, it jumps to 40-60%/hr.
All my car chargers came with the data pins shorted. When I plug in, it says "Charging (AC)". I don't think my car is the issue because my friend tried charging his Iphone with my charger and it didn't seem to work, but when he pulled out his, it charged much faster.
I remember that in the past, I was able to use the Nav while with my car charger and it would last all day on long road trips. With the charger in and running Nav, I might go up some small amount, like 1%/hr. Now, with the car charger in, I'm still losing and lucky if I get more than an hour or so.
The only conclusion I can think of is that recent versions of Nav or something with CM11 is drawing much more power. Although I've had this issue for at least the past year