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Hi all,
As i started servicing all pdas for a couple of monthes (only as a hobby, i fix them for friends and relatives), i came across one BA that gave me some trouble.
i got it to replace its LCD that was broken as it was dropped and thats very simple to replace it, so far so good. now it has two main problems :
1. no sound from speaker (even when in speakerphone mode), but there is sound in the stereo earphones (i plugged to the connector by the sd card slot). - i can only assume that a bluetooth handsfree device it will also work.
2. although the backup battery is fully charged, if i remove the main battery even for a brief second, when turned on, the BA acts as if i made a hard reset.
as for solving the problems :
1. using a digital multimeter, i managed to track the conductivity from the internal speaker through its connector, flat ribbon to the connector which connects to the main pcb - so there is no contact problem from the speaker to the main pcb.
using the help from WIKI, i went to site that has the list of all components and their description - the IC that is responsible for audio amp is a MAXIM's MAX4410 which is a stereo headphone driver. a quick look at its charasteristics and typical configuration and i understood that (assuming this is the IC that drives the internal speaker) the speaker should have one pin which is ground and the other goes to the amplified signal from the IC. neither one of the pins showed it has GND to it. so maybe there is a bad GND line to the connector.
2. regarding the backup battery issue i do not know what makes this problem.
I am sharing this info with you all with two ideas in mind :
1. to resolve my problem and know those devices hardware better.
2. because i am quite a while watching xda-developers and WIKI and i got the feeling that a lot of eforth is given to the software side of all those pdas (which is greate!!! keep going, this work helps lots of people and it shows al thos mega corps they are not the only ones), but the hardware is a bit forgotten and left behind. let me tell you this, there are many VERY simple mini projects i made useing electronics (i am an electronics engineer in my profession) that made my life easy . i am now investigating those instruments hardware as i have several ideas to develope useful accessories to my pda (like an external IR transciver to control IR devices like TV,DVD and to communicate with my laptop, and some other ideas) and i believe we can do the same info sharing as done on software side but on the hardware side.
I will thank any ideas, thoghts or commentsabout this matter. Yol.
Hello,
Today I bought YC-A300 adaptor and soon after unpacking I realized that the device doesn't work properly. It occurs that 2.5 mm jack socket has two lines swapped - left audio with microphone input. Obviously the attached headset doesn't work as a result. Despite of this, other sockets work fine (i.e. ext USB for charging, ext USB for audio and 3.5mm jack audio). I would like to emphasize that the device is original HTC product. To give you better idea of this fault see connection diagram below:
Standard 2.5 / 3.5mm jack:
1. (tip of the plug) Left audio
2. 1st ring - right audio
3. 2nd ring - microphone
4. common ground
My 2.5mm jack is connected like this:
1. (tip) mic input
2. right audio
3. left audio
4. ground
Due to this problem I have two questions - am I alone with this or someone else also experienced such issue? And the second - has anyone tried to open the case of this adaptor? Obviously I have warranty for this, but my internet supplier wants to wash hands of it and local HTC service center needs ages to check if they can repair this (lol). Normally I could wait for weeks/months and argue firstly with my supplier and later with service center, but I bought this device for about 10 Euro (I live in Eastern Europe so OEM prices are lower) and I don't think it's worth the effort to fight with them. Since I'm an electronic engineer I could try to repair it myself, but firstly I would like to know if there are issues with opening the case (it seems possible to brake it during opening).
Thanks in advance for any replies.
Specific to KGL
I've had the KGL variant for a couple of weeks. Since I've had my share of Chinese Android devices of all sorts - I kind of knew what to expect in terms of software.. so I wasn't really disappointed BUT... the hands free in this unit was simply unusable... After getting my wife totally upset and my friends pissed at me for calling them using the unit I knew something had to be done.
So I took it apart.
Being that I'm skilled in electronics and pretty much hands-on, I figured out the problem pretty fast. Or should I say "problems" in plural?
Let me start by saying that if you have the KGL variant and suffer from extreme noise bleeding into the mic - there is no software workaround. You either need to send it back and get something else or open and modify it like I did.
Second - the hardware in this thing is of such low quality, and the design is so bad, it makes me cry. I estimate the production cost of this unit is under $50. Pretty pretty low... even for Chinese stuff.
So.. what's the story with the mic noise, you ask? very simple. The mic signal from the front panel is routed unshielded from a small PCB attached to the panel, via 3 PCBs and 2 ribbon cables, for over 15" until it arrives at the Bluetooth module MIC input. On the way, it picks up so much electrical noise and interference it's almost a miracle that you hear anything but static noise. When an external mic is plugged it, the front panel mic is NOT disconnected. Both are electrically connected in parallel which is unheard of (very bad practice). The Bluetooth module is thus responsible for MIC bias and preamp. The BT module is of unknown source and it's hard to tell what quality to expect there (not much, as we all know). Noise cancellation? echo cancellation? forget it!
Now - we know android needs an audio input - we can have some voice activation on the unit, right? so how is it done? simple! the signal from the BT mic input line is run back to the front panel and into a Wolfson CODEC. Just like that... so that the Android audio in would also suffer from the above issues.
This also explains the exact nature of the unit's BT implementation - the handsfree is not done by the Android - it's completely handled by the BT module. BT module has MIC in, AUDIO out (that goes to the BD37534 audio mixer chip) and RS232 control signals that communicate with the Android BT application for User Interface (probably via AT commands).
When you run an Android app that uses audio input - it comes from the Wolfson CODEC but it's essentialy the same lousy MIC signal that the BT also gets.
BUT!!!
I've made some modifications and lo and behold - I can make a good quality phone conversation now! and the google apps have somewhat better performance too... but it did require me to completely mess up the internal wiring and obviously void the priceless warranty
So after I've figured it out - I decided I needed to do the following:
- Give up the option to work with two mics at the same time and opt for the external mic only for voice calls
- Cut and bypass the original traces since they pick up so much noise
- Add a separate input jack for the external microphone since it was not feasible to cut the lines going into the original one
I started by installing the extra jack on the rear panel. Then I removed a jumper 0ohm resistor at the MIC input to the BT module, disconnecting the MIC input from the circuit. I ran a piece of shielded wire from the new jack to the MIC input signal pin ON the BT board. That completed the hands-free modification.
In order for the Android to have some audio input, I then moved to the front panel, and first installed a 0Ohm jumper that was missing by the WM8731 CODEC. This resistor connects the MIC BIAS pin to the MIC input - it is required when using an electret microphone. I then made a cut in the trace from the front panel microphone to the small PCB connector, and ran a piece of shielded wire from the mic terminals to the WM8731 MIC input.
Now the front mic is only for Android (voice commands etc) and the external mic serves hands free.. I could have probably added some smarter electronics but I don't think it would have added anything to the usage experience.
Let me know if anyone is interested in some pictures I've taken and I will upload.
Crappy piece of equipment but at least now it works.
All the best,
Nir
...
Moderation note form dark alex:
these are pictures which belong to dnts' tutorial and research
harlequin69 said:
Great work and thank you for sharing. I can follow most of what you did there except for adding the jumper to the CODEC due to electret mic use, do you have any pics of this? also why did you choose to use both mics in the end? would it not be better to use the external mic for both BT and android?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Regarding external mic for both BT and Android - here is the catch - you need to add a buffer (amplifier circuit) to the mic signal before sending it to two destinations (BT and CODEC) otherwise you will get that awful noise back. The microphones have a high output impedance which makes them prone to electrical noise. Even if you run them using shielded wire to two locations - you will be picking up noise via the ground signal due to the high impedance.
So to keep things simple (for now) I opted for separate mics, with the higher quality one for calls.
As for the required jumper, I attached a pic. The red circle around the empty pads shows where you need to put a short. The green line shows where you would connect the internal mic. Either pad works (they are shorted on the PCB).
Nir
Specific for KGL
From the top of my head.. sorry for that.. Please use pics in my previous posts.
1. Remove unit. Remove screws holding front panel to the chassis (this varies from one car model to another - mine is KIA Sportage).
2. Carefully lay down front panel. Take notice of the two ribbon cables and don't pull them
3. Remove chassis top cover (2 side screws and one screw on the back).
4. Remove optical drive - 4 screws hold it in place. Carefully disconnect ribbon cable.
5. Install 3.5mm mono jack on the rear panel - 2 holes are available for that (those reserved for DTV antenna). Wire a piece of shielded conductor to the jack, shield going to the part touching the chassis (sleeve) and internal conductor going to the "tip" contact.
6. Locate BT module. It will be at the right side of the chassis (eyeing from front), close to the front end of the PCB.
7. Near the BT module, on the main PCB, locate the component marked "C32". It should be marked "0". Remove it. This is a jumper connecting the BT MIC input to the microphones.
8. Connect the other end of the shielded conductor to the BT module to the pin labeled "MIC+". Do if from the back size of the module. Secure the shielded wire in several places so it doesn't loose up over time.
At this point, the external mic will be the only source for BT audio in. It should (obviously) connected to the new jack we installed.
9. Locate the PCB holding the microphone to the front panel. Locate the PCB trace from the lower microphone terminal (the other terminal is connected to the ground plane of the PCB). make a cut to that trace.
10. Prepare another shielded conductor. connect shied to the mic terminal that is grounded (top one) and the internal conductor to the terminal connected to the trace we just cut. (please see picture titled "front mic").
11. Locate WM8731 CODEC chip. Identify missing "R45" pads (only vacant pads near the WM8731 chip). Make a jumper using some solder and a piece of wire. This calls for delicate soldering.
12. Connect other end of mic conductor to the pad of R42 and R45 further away from WM8731 (please see picture titled "CODEC connection")
13. Put everything back together - start with ribbon for the optical drive, 4 screws for the drive, top cover of chassis and front panel. Make sure, before securing the front panel, that the two ribbon cables are well connected and have not moved or shifted inside their connectors.
14. Cross fingers and connect back to power.
You're done.
Nir
Relax, don't do it!
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Specific for JY
tomc99 said:
I did find a capacitor linking the BT module on my JY unit, but removing it didn't give me the results I needed, so that's when I moved to cutting the leg on the BT module.
I seem to get some bias at the microphone socket - maybe a little low, from memory around 1.7 volts, but no audio whatsoever.
A little bit of a mystery to me is that after cutting the leg on the module the internal mic is now virtually clear of all buzzing that was evident beforehand.
I may spend a few hours this weekend and set it up on my bench power supply and have a better play with it.
Tom.
Sent from my GT-N5100 using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a G2110 model( which is a Joyous JY) that suffered with bad buzzing and echoing when using hands free. In stock form testing internal MIC with sound recorder there was no issue. Recording was clear. When I made hand-free call buzzing and reverb sound occurred. I read over and over about the external mic modification and decided to try it. Opened up HU and located C32 which was actually located toward the front center of the unit. I removed it and tested and same issues occurred. I then reconnect C32 as it was apparent that this was not the correct one on this board. I then took advise of previous posts that the cap should be located somewhere near the Bluetooth module so did continuity checks from the + of internal MIC to the caps near the Bluetooth module. I found C102(located seemed to connect to internal MIC on one side and the Bluetooth Mic + on the other. I decided to remove that and test. After removal internal MIC still functioned but hands-free was dead. I am assuming that this was the correct cap that needed to be removed. I did not do anything to the legs of the actual module. I did add an external jack to the backside of the module per the previous posts on how to add external MIC. After I completed the task I tested and the two appear to be separated and the hand-free external seems to function. I still get a little reverb noise but nothing like it was. I am not an electrical guru so I'm not sure if what I did is correct but it seems to have helped somewhat. I took some pics.
Ok...I need to do this as got that horrible Mike thing going with Bluetooth..
I still need to get my head around the best way to do it..
Best way is going to have to print this thread and work out a plan of attack..
At the moment I have not plugged in the mike at back but been using the front Mike for Bluetooth calls..and of course no one can hear me..
As for Bluetooth coming out to speaks..that all works fine..
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
dgcruzing said:
Ok...I need to do this as got that horrible Mike thing going with Bluetooth..
I still need to get my head around the best way to do it..
Best way is going to have to print this thread and work out a plan of attack..
At the moment I have not plugged in the mike at back but been using the front Mike for Bluetooth calls..and of course no one can hear me..
As for Bluetooth coming out to speaks..that all works fine..
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm with you pal. This is pretty confusing, especially when you take into account the different models of the head units. I want to improve my mic, but I don't want to mess up and make it worse.
If anyone with a joying unit wants to put together an idiots guide to this mod, I would send a huge thank you your way. [emoji106]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
tdopko said:
Specific for JY
I have a G2110 model( which is a Joyous JY) that suffered with bad buzzing and echoing when using hands free. In stock form testing internal MIC with sound recorder there was no issue. Recording was clear. When I made hand-free call buzzing and reverb sound occurred. I read over and over about the external mic modification and decided to try it. Opened up HU and located C32 which was actually located toward the front center of the unit. I removed it and tested and same issues occurred. I then reconnect C32 as it was apparent that this was not the correct one on this board. I then took advise of previous posts that the cap should be located somewhere near the Bluetooth module so did continuity checks from the + of internal MIC to the caps near the Bluetooth module. I found C102(located seemed to connect to internal MIC on one side and the Bluetooth Mic + on the other. I decided to remove that and test. After removal internal MIC still functioned but hands-free was dead. I am assuming that this was the correct cap that needed to be removed. I did not do anything to the legs of the actual module. I did add an external jack to the backside of the module per the previous posts on how to add external MIC. After I completed the task I tested and the two appear to be separated and the hand-free external seems to function. I still get a little reverb noise but nothing like it was. I am not an electrical guru so I'm not sure if what I did is correct but it seems to have helped somewhat. I took some pics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I did my soldering too. I found that my microphone is on pin connection infront of BT module and it is connected through c102 jumper. So i cut that microphone and solder it on back of BT module on mic+ and mic-. Problem is that when I call the internal mic is on and external is not working or is off. I am not sure if the external mic was ever on and I did talk thorough internal mic. Can you just tell me what did you solder to what?
Thank you
dsa8310 said:
I have followed the microphone recipe in post #3964, and here is my experience:
Separation between the Android internal mic and the hands-free external mic is definitely a great solution. With the external mic connected directly to the BT module (and capacitor C32 removed) people tell me that they cannot say that I am using hands-free - the call quality has become that good.
Connecting the internal mic directly to the CODEC chip - not a good idea, unless you have proper tools and you know what you are doing. In fact, Skype and Google Search, both work beautifully with no need for any further change.
Beware, the image in post #3971 , detailing where to connect the mic IS WRONG! The mic should be connected where the strap between the two empty pads is made (in order to have the mic powered with chip's bias voltage). Only the pad at the left end of the green line is OK for mic connection.
I had to redo the soldering, after looking up the chip's pin-out, and this was the end of my empty pads... (overheating with improper tools). With no bias voltage, I could no longer connect the mic directly.
And since I had already cut the mic trace on board, I couldn't reconnect my internal mic, other than using a shielded wire which went outside the unit and into the available external mic socket. Thanks Huifei for your thoughtful design!
And now, my internal mic, even wired through the external mic socket, works perfectly for Android. I got lucky...
So, my advice, stick to the first part of the recipe, it's a must for phone quality hands-free calls, but relax, don't do it - the second part calls for trouble and seems unnecessary, really.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you all for the very useful information that you give us every day,
I am owner of a KLD. Specifically a Witson A7047.
I ask you please to be able to summarize in detail the operations to be done in order to make the modification of the microphone.
As I understand, I should find the capacitor C32 and remove it.
I miss, however, the passage for connecting external microphone.
Excuse my trivial question, but understand little of electronics and I have to carry the equipment by the technician. Obviously I will have to explain what to do.
Thanks for the answer
hello, i'm also using a joying head unit and i have the same problems with my mic. Until now i only used the unit internal mic and the external one is not even connected. Has any of you managed to do any mod (not requiring too much of electronics skills since i dont have any)
Aender84 said:
hello, i'm also using a joying head unit and i have the same problems with my mic. Until now i only used the unit internal mic and the external one is not even connected. Has any of you managed to do any mod (not requiring too much of electronics skills since i dont have any)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The external mic is better than the internal, but it is still not great. It makes a lot of electrical noise on the other end if the phone call. There are some instructions for mic mod here, but I have also read that the joying units are a little different than those details here. I haven't tried it yet, so I can't help any more than that.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
But is there any way to still use the car existing mic? My car already had a stock Bluetooth installed so I also heve the mic for it
Aender84 said:
But is there any way to still use the car existing mic? My car already had a stock Bluetooth installed so I also heve the mic for it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not that I am aware of. It would have to be routed through the Android unit somehow. Otherwise it wouldn't switch automatically when you receive a call. That is if it can even be done at all. I suspect that the Bluetooth module was in the stock radio unit.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I believe is a matter of wiring. The Bluetooth unit was not embedded in the original headunit, so probably there is a way to do it.
Aender84 said:
I believe is a matter of wiring. The Bluetooth unit was not embedded in the original headunit, so probably there is a way to do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure about that? Maybe yours is different than mine. I have the jbl, non-nav unit. I can't access anything to do with the Bluetooth now that I've removed the head unit.
If you're only saying that he can wire the original microphone into the Android unit, that may be possible. It's the same as wiring any external microphone I guess.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have not possibility to hardware mod.
No software mod can help me?if i buy a bt mic?or bt handfree kit?
Inviato dal mio SM-G920F utilizzando Tapatalk
Hi guys.
I have had this issue for awhile and have put it off thinking it was a headphone cable issue but it's not.
I have already tried cleaning with contact cleaner and rubbing alcohol.
My issue is that my phone will trigger "Google voice" search just by slight movement at the cable /jack junction. This is insanely annoying considering I bought this phone due to its audio prowess.
It will also automatically pause or change tracks with the same jack/cable movement.
I am Canadian and bought this from HK via ebay. I am one of those who almost never bother with warranties but obviously would seeing as I spend near a grand on this thing. How would I begin on a warranty claim?
Thanks.
Seems to be a common issue, unfortunately. I haven't really found a way to fix it yet.
How new is your device?
What type of finish is on the end of the cables ends?
I use this cable with almost no issue. Once in a while it will trigger voice when I plug in. But that's all.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F9KUF7O/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've also got a phone from HK prior to release in my country and have been struggling with this.
It looks to me that this is because of the way the phone detects your device. I've that the headphones that comes with the device and other earbuds works with no problems, but my bigger M40X for example have this.
The best solution I've found so far is this: plug it and leave it (not moving it at all) for about 10 seconds. After this the problem seems solved most of the time.
Unplugging and re plugging it several times also worked sometimes at the begging, but it was very frustrating and probably not so good for the longevity of the jack.
I'm actually about to make a factory reset for other reasons, but I'll post here if it makes any difference.
UPDATE: The factory reset did not fix the issue, but I have the impression it's triggering the high gain with my m40x as now I've noticed increased volume and no difference to when doing that trick of plugging the detachable cable first to the phone and then to the headset. Don't ask...
I had this issue a few times on my previous phone (Droid Maxx) when in the car, as I was plugging it in (usually when there was turbulence). I thought it was due to the tip of the plug contacting one of the other contacts in the jack. See this link for what the different parts of a headphone/mic combo plug or jack are. I'm not sure if your cable has all of those, but if the wrong ones touch maybe it triggers the mic to listen. Or internally your cable may be shorting between the different signals. Just spitballing ideas.
You know what guys, a friend of mine really liked my phone and got one as well. So when he got it I asked to him to test the jack problem with my headphones and it was simply not there. I do suspect this is a problem with the device. I'll try to get in touch with LG a second time for support (as the first time they asked me to get back to the country where I got it, the Philippines, and this is not really an option).
MrCogito said:
I've also got a phone from HK prior to release in my country and have been struggling with this.
It looks to me that this is because of the way the phone detects your device. I've that the headphones that comes with the device and other earbuds works with no problems, but my bigger M40X for example have this.
The best solution I've found so far is this: plug it and leave it (not moving it at all) for about 10 seconds. After this the problem seems solved most of the time.
Unplugging and re plugging it several times also worked sometimes at the begging, but it was very frustrating and probably not so good for the longevity of the jack.
I'm actually about to make a factory reset for other reasons, but I'll post here if it makes any difference.
UPDATE: The factory reset did not fix the issue, but I have the impression it's triggering the high gain with my m40x as now I've noticed increased volume and no difference to when doing that trick of plugging the detachable cable first to the phone and then to the headset. Don't ask...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Funny you mentioned the volume increase. That is a trick I learned from someone in another thread as the standard gain setting for low impedance headphones was too weak. That made a vast improvement in volume and was a life saver because I bought this phone specifically for its audio abilities.
As for the Google voice thing the only thing I found that worked was going under apps and disabling the Google app which is ridiculous considering it kills Google on tap which is a big feature of android.
I am pretty sure this is being trigggered by the jack somehow engaging a contact. Explains why it's triggered when I move.
Drives me nuts. Read somewhere that MM fixed this but not for me. I will try enabling Google app and uncheck all the voice options and see if this helps.
You know what, after struggling long with this I've finally gathered the balls to buy a headphone jack part and replace it myself. I've done it with my old Nexus 4 (the jack actually broke there).
It takes a while to arrive, but I'll perform the change and post the result here.
Where I got it from:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/122034019463
I sometimes have the voice recognition and volume issue, but for me it appears to be an issue with my headphones (Bose MIE2i). I don't have the issue with any other headphone or cable. I have this issue when I fiddle with the in-line controls of the Bose (both this and the 1st pair of Bose). My belief was that it was due to poor shielding of conductors in the controller or shoddy wiring connections.
Did u ever solve the problem with replacement? Im having issues with left and right volume. Like a shorted cable, but bought new phones & still doing that.
Just in case anyone is still suffering from this problem, I made a discovery today. I've replaced the headphone jack in my v10 3 times thinking that they're just ****ty headphone jacks that break all the time, but in my case at least the fault wasn't the contacts inside the jack itself. I found that my problem was actually related to the push-down connector that clips to the motherboard. I had a hunch that keeping the phone in my pocket with headphones connected was slowly rocking it back and forth and would eventually disconnect it. In order to add more clamping pressure to the connector, I put 3 small slices of electrical tape on top of it before screwing the back down. On my walk home today, the left earphone would disconnect with literally every step that I made. After putting the electrical tape in the problem was solved.
I have a eunavi PX5 4G/32G with an inbuilt VW Quadlock. The unit has following sound related issues (when in a Skoda Superb 2011);
- when no media is being played, significant background noise can be heard (white noise + clicks, etc). in particular, when downloading over wifi, the noise varies as the load on the CPU varies.
- visible engine noise in the rearview camera
- high level of background noise can be heard when media played from the USB, microsd and less noticeable with the radio.
when on the desk power supply,
- the is persistent low level white noise, but without the clicks, etc and no downloading induced noise.
- the low level white noise is persistent across radio, media, etc.
decided to bite the bullet, and open the unit up, hoping to install the DSP mod.
- Notably the amp chip is located next the power supply,
- the audio chip is on the rear side of the board from the powersupply / amp
- the clock does not have shielding around it, allow the board clearly was designed with that intention
can anyone identify the actual manufacturer of this board and help with the DSP mod
https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...ml?spm=a2700.icbuShop.41413.34.77eb1e36Nr5kPU
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000274050022.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.24.6030147dlf1vAh
I have updated the
- MCU to MTCE_HA_v3.40_1
- system to px5-userdebug 8.0.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 eng.hct.20190428.180147 test-keys
update went smoothly.
It would seem that the sound problems are a grounding and/or VW noise issue powered via the quadlock connector
(i note it is not possible to power via the quadlock connector on the bench - presumably because no canbus connected)
The big question is, can i install a DSP and will it reduce the white noise problem.
I have the same media player with DSP, and have the same problems with background noise. Contacted the seller, and he sent me a new main board - the problem still exist, after replacing the board. The player is mounted in Honda Accord. Tried changing the capacitors - same **** different day ...
Will be following the tread if any solution comes up.
As7i said:
I have the same media player with DSP, and have the same problems with background noise. Contacted the seller, and he sent me a new main board - the problem still exist, after replacing the board. The player is mounted in Honda Accord. Tried changing the capacitors - same **** different day ...
Will be following the tread if any solution comes up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can you make a photo of the board and particularly identify where the DSP is.
thks
gwaitsi said:
can you make a photo of the board and particularly identify where the DSP is.
thks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No idea where the DSP is ... For me it is just a board with some elements and chips on it, no idea what is what. But there are the pictures of the board, if they could be in any help for you.
<<<https://imgur.com/a/l7XVbuz>>>
Copy and paste the link only without "<<<>>>" ... had to cheat the forum since new users are not allowed to attach or send links...
As7i said:
No idea where the DSP is ... For me it is just a board with some elements and chips on it, no idea what is what. But there are the pictures of the board, if they could be in any help for you.
<<<https://imgur.com/a/l7XVbuz>>>
Copy and paste the link only without "<<<>>>" ... had to cheat the forum since new users are not allowed to attach or send links...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not the same board. It is almost the same, but obviously a different revision. Turn the rear view so your thumb is on top. bottom left corner. You are missing the audio ZL3560 chip and the one below it. slightly to the right of the ZL3560 you have a square chip but i cant see the number on it with the quality of your pic.
Do you here varying background noise when downloads are occurring over wifi.
i uploaded your pics for the benefit of others
gwaitsi said:
It's not the same board. It is almost the same, but obviously a different revision. Turn the rear view so your thumb is on top. bottom left corner. You are missing the audio ZL3560 chip and the one below it. slightly to the right of the ZL3560 you have a square chip but i cant see the number on it with the quality of your pic.
Do you here varying background noise when downloads are occurring over wifi.
i uploaded your pics for the benefit of others
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I have not used the WiFi yet. I had a varying background noise while I was browsing the menu, and every touch of the screen was reflected in the speakers. I gave the media to a repair shop and they changed all the capacitors. Now the noise from browsing the menu is gone, but still there is hell of a "turbo" noise. I can clearly hear my rpm in the speakers. And the problem is gone with other players. Tested the same player to a different car - same "turbo" noise. Tried a "hi-low" filter/converter - the idea was not to use the RCA out ... and the problem became even bigger.
Now the car is in a car audio service, the boys will try to fix the noise, or the medial will be replaced. If it comes to replacing the media unit, since the EUNAVI shop won't assist anymore, claiming that there is no way their media to have such a problem ... the defective unit will gladly be run over by my car ... several times - just to be sure it is dead ...
I've tried 3 different boards with and without DSP and the solution was to turn down the gain on the amplifier. I'm using RCA.
However, I noticed a significant improvement when I plugged the microphone into the back of the unit. Can you test this out and let me know? Both microphones broke on this unit, I'm not sure why, but the whining is gone until I turn the gain on my amp up. It sounds pretty good now, especially after tuning with the dsp board. I'll still be returning it though to try a Dasiata board.
Regarding USB audio: my eunavi board has terrible white noise pops clicks. My newest unit(CHS) has no issues over USB audio. It's flawless. Im thinking about using a HDMI to RCA converter for digital audio and hooking it up to a helix for auto digital /analog switching.
Sent from my LYA-L0C using Tapatalk
As7i said:
I have not used the WiFi yet. I had a varying background noise while I was browsing the menu, and every touch of the screen was reflected in the speakers. I gave the media to a repair shop and they changed all the capacitors. Now the noise from browsing the menu is gone, but still there is hell of a "turbo" noise. I can clearly hear my rpm in the speakers. And the problem is gone with other players. Tested the same player to a different car - same "turbo" noise. Tried a "hi-low" filter/converter - the idea was not to use the RCA out ... and the problem became even bigger.
Now the car is in a car audio service, the boys will try to fix the noise, or the medial will be replaced. If it comes to replacing the media unit, since the EUNAVI shop won't assist anymore, claiming that there is no way their media to have such a problem ... the defective unit will gladly be run over by my car ... several times - just to be sure it is dead ...
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Interesting. From the menu, i also get basic touch screen noise. Downloading just makes it more prominent. I am use the ISO connector for Skoda.
I would say you probably have a ground problem if you are engine noise. You want to make sure, if using an ext amp, the two units are grounded together at the same point.
I will take a look at the caps as well.
lennylen said:
I've tried 3 different boards with and without DSP and the solution was to turn down the gain on the amplifier. I'm using RCA.
However, I noticed a significant improvement when I plugged the microphone into the back of the unit. Can you test this out and let me know? Both microphones broke on this unit, I'm not sure why, but the whining is gone until I turn the gain on my amp up. It sounds pretty good now, especially after tuning with the dsp board. I'll still be returning it though to try a Dasiata board.
Regarding USB audio: my eunavi board has terrible white noise pops clicks. My newest unit(CHS) has no issues over USB audio. It's flawless. Im thinking about using a HDMI to RCA converter for digital audio and hooking it up to a helix for auto digital /analog switching.
Sent from my LYA-L0C using Tapatalk
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I have a factory fitted blaupunkt amp and connection via the ISO connector. The gain is currently set to -12dB and the amp mode is set to auto detect.
I might take the oscilloscope out when it warms up and have a look,.
As7i said:
I have not used the WiFi yet. I had a varying background noise while I was browsing the menu, and every touch of the screen was reflected in the speakers. I gave the media to a repair shop and they changed all the capacitors. Now the noise from browsing the menu is gone, but still there is hell of a "turbo" noise. I can clearly hear my rpm in the speakers. And the problem is gone with other players. Tested the same player to a different car - same "turbo" noise. Tried a "hi-low" filter/converter - the idea was not to use the RCA out ... and the problem became even bigger.
Now the car is in a car audio service, the boys will try to fix the noise, or the medial will be replaced. If it comes to replacing the media unit, since the EUNAVI shop won't assist anymore, claiming that there is no way their media to have such a problem ... the defective unit will gladly be run over by my car ... several times - just to be sure it is dead ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lennylen said:
I've tried 3 different boards with and without DSP and the solution was to turn down the gain on the amplifier. I'm using RCA.
However, I noticed a significant improvement when I plugged the microphone into the back of the unit. Can you test this out and let me know? Both microphones broke on this unit, I'm not sure why, but the whining is gone until I turn the gain on my amp up. It sounds pretty good now, especially after tuning with the dsp board. I'll still be returning it though to try a Dasiata board.
Regarding USB audio: my eunavi board has terrible white noise pops clicks. My newest unit(CHS) has no issues over USB audio. It's flawless. Im thinking about using a HDMI to RCA converter for digital audio and hooking it up to a helix for auto digital /analog switching.
Sent from my LYA-L0C using Tapatalk
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gwaitsi said:
I have a factory fitted blaupunkt amp and connection via the ISO connector. The gain is currently set to -12dB and the amp mode is set to auto detect.
I might take the oscilloscope out when it warms up and have a look,.
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I've been following noise issue on PX5 for a while (they all have them) but no one on this forum found the right fix (better ground, change caps, install DSP,ground heatsink of PX5, solder RCA directly nothing really fix it)
Did you solve the problem?
ELCouz said:
I've been following noise issue on PX5 for a while (they all have them) but no one on this forum found the right fix (better ground, change caps, install DSP,ground heatsink of PX5, solder RCA directly nothing really fix it)
Did you solve the problem?
i didn't yet, but can say many of the problems are not there when the unit is on the test bench using PSU rather than in the car. I have a filter and will put that in the car when i have chance. There is definitely a difference in the unit power design. If i try to power via the quadlock connector on the work bench, it doesn't power up. i have to use the non-quad connector. so would be interesting to know if the same unit is working better in a car without the quadlock connector
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Could it be that the hardware is fundamentally flawed.
marchnz said:
Could it be that the hardware is fundamentally flawed.
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it's most likely a combination of cheap components e.g. capacitors, grounding issues and RF isolation/shielding and cheap design shortcuts. it is clear, if you disassemble the unit and move the screen away from the CPU & baseboard, there is less interference from the touch screen. Also supporting that, my unit has an onboard VW Quadlock so it direct plug/play. There is clearly engine noise which doesn't appear with the original blaupunkt unit. But you pay one tenth of the price...so what can you expect. the question is, if you can do enough e.g. add noise filters in line for the quadlock to reduce the problems to an acceptable level.
The bigger issue in my mind is the inbuilt malware. My unit tries to contact a tencent IP address, and also probes the ports on my firewall if i connect the wifi to my guest network ;-)
So finally, I bit the bullet and started to work on solving the issues.
First step is to reduce the engine noise on my 2011 Superb 3T5 Diesel,
which is also particularly amplifier when using USB DAB.
Two possible options
1) so-called camera Rectifier is a 1000uF/16v cap on the input side with a IN4001 rectifier diode and a small cap (probably 10uF not sure) on the output.
2) so-called car power Filter is an inductor with a 2200uF/25V cap on the output side of the inductor.
You can see on the 2nd photo there is an inductor and 4700uF capacitor. I didn't trace the circuit yet,
but I guess this is on the power input from the RCA connector strip and not the Quadlock/VW ISO connector.
I hooked up a scope to the Quadlock connector power and there was noise and a sine wave on it. Although the Quadlock diagram for the Superb shows
12 – Voltage supply, negative, terminal 31
15 – Voltage supply, positive, terminal 30
16 – Anti-theft coding control signal, SAFE, positive
I connected one box of 1) on pin 15 and one box of 1) on pin 16.
There is about a 1v drop on the power to the unit i.e. 14.1v to 13.1-2v but the solution solved the engine noise and significantly reduced the noise of the DAB.
There is still some screen noise, but I noise there is provision for RFI shields around the various components (which have not been installed). I will try to replace the PCB caps and add some shielding to see if i can cut the screen noise out.
gwaitsi said:
So finally, I bit the bullet and started to work on solving the issues.
First step is to reduce the engine noise on my 2011 Superb 3T5 Diesel,
which is also particularly amplifier when using USB DAB.
Two possible options
1) so-called camera Rectifier is a 1000uF/16v cap on the input side with a IN4001 rectifier diode and a small cap (probably 10uF not sure) on the output.
2) so-called car power Filter is an inductor with a 2200uF/25V cap on the output side of the inductor.
You can see on the 2nd photo there is an inductor and 4700uF capacitor. I didn't trace the circuit yet,
but I guess this is on the power input from the RCA connector strip and not the Quadlock/VW ISO connector.
I hooked up a scope to the Quadlock connector power and there was noise and a sine wave on it. Although the Quadlock diagram for the Superb shows
12 – Voltage supply, negative, terminal 31
15 – Voltage supply, positive, terminal 30
16 – Anti-theft coding control signal, SAFE, positive
I connected one box of 1) on pin 15 and one box of 1) on pin 16.
There is about a 1v drop on the power to the unit i.e. 14.1v to 13.1-2v but the solution solved the engine noise and significantly reduced the noise of the DAB.
There is still some screen noise, but I noise there is provision for RFI shields around the various components (which have not been installed). I will try to replace the PCB caps and add some shielding to see if i can cut the screen noise out.
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What are the frequency(s)/period of the noise?
The inductor, what is the physical size?
Have you considered using a shottkey diode instead of the 1n4001?
marchnz said:
What are the frequency(s)/period of the noise? i didn't record it, i saw enough to convince i needed a filter.
The inductor, what is the physical size? I never used option 2. because option 1 worked.
Have you considered using a shottkey diode instead of the 1n4001? i wouldn't over analyse. In summary, this could have been fixed by adding capacitors to the motherboard for the CAN connector power rails. Obviously they tried to save a few cents on manufacturing costs, or was simply an oversight in the initial design
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OK, so youre unsure not sure how to design filters, select the correct components, including filtering and reducing voltage drops.
Not over analyzing, just knowing what the right path is to reducing switching noise.
marchnz said:
OK, so youre unsure not sure how to design filters, select the correct components, including filtering and reducing voltage drops.
Not over analyzing, just knowing what the right path is to reducing switching noise.
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I provided two links;
1) Half Wave Rectifier
2) Low Pass Filter
of course, you can do this with the raw components for a few cents.
But the two aliexpress links provide them in plastic packaging, which makes them convenient for installing in the car. The half-wave rectifier is a smaller package, so I installed that first. It solved the problem in a much smaller form (given I put in two - without having checked the onboard Quadlock connectors). On the design of my motherboard, it is evident there are no capacitors in the power rails connected to the Quadlock connector (which is the 68pin dual-in-line connector)
While the low pass filter will have less voltage reduction, in this case it makes no difference to the head unit as it is simply reducing the noisy 14v to a clean 13v which is still with range, so frankly, I consider that part of the problem solved.