Hi. I have some wallaby for repair from my team-mate, and i found, that soomeone (he told that serviceman ) "killed" some circuitry. That part is here:
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I cannot provide better image, coz i dont have camera with macro focusing, bud the area is clearly recognizable.
Would ANYONE be that kind, that he will tell me, what type of transistor and the other component (my guess is capacitor, but writing is unreadable EDIT: its Resistor R831 and it pulls down closer blue-marked IC to the ground, so i need a value of it ) it is? Both are "missing" so i cannot resolder them back. (marked with red)
Also some components are slightly damaged (like a scratch or something like that), but they are in place. (marked with blue)
The other possibility is that someone will send me service manual for this device. I'll be very glad for that (atleast this particular area).
This device turns on while in bootloader, and it turns on normally, but when it is not in bootloader, screen and backlight is dead, but i can hear windows boot sound, and it also reacts when i insert unformatted memcard, so i guess that OS is alive. I've passed all tests in test mode (except that in battery test there is known 0x000 problem in external voltage and charge voltage, but its charging, so no need to worry) and and i've tried to reflash it with new firmware (incl. bootloader) but no luck. I think that this (broken circuitry) is the case... Thanks in advance, Andy.
Hm, so many viewers, but noone replies... does anyone knows it? I have somehow managed to get the wallaby working, but i'd like to have it fixed correctly. so please... Someone... THX
the resistor is 240kOhms in my case. The smd transistor is marked with XA, don't know anything else
Thats exactly what i need So its the same transistor as others, so then it will be enough to measure its characteristics and buy similar THANK you !
BTW: did you unsolder that resistor from PCB, right? Didn't you measured it while connected, right? or was it written on its casing? if so, what exactly was on that ? (just to be sure)
i did not unsolder it. But in case 240kOhms is wrong the resistor must be even bigger than that (which is quite useless i guess)
No sound from speaker, low sound from earphone
Hi!
I copied my reply form another topic here:
I haven't got sound on my XDA1. I'm sure, that something died on the main board. When I run the audio test from the diagnostics. I can hear som very-very low sound, but only with earphones. This effect says me, that some amplifier gone bad.
I opened the case, and found a burned chip. I thought, I found the problem. I changed the chip, but nothing changed . (I have a "donor" main bard.)
By the way: what kind of chip is that? (See: attached image!)
On the chip is written "22 TI AHR", or "22 T1 AHR", or "22 TI AMR". Not good readable.
szajmon
Handy hint for you if you don't have a hi megapixel camera use a flatbed scanner you will get a much better detail picture allso handy for yourself to see reg details if you can't make them out.
just be gentle placing board on scanner plate.
Related
I purchased a drowned HTC Diamond 2 which I used to house my MDA V in.
Now I was in possession of a broken mainboard.
Since the JTAG pinouts are unknown till this date, I stripped the mainboard from all its components and traced the board in order to find the JTAG.
Had to make new probes from some needles in order to trace from the BGA-Grid..
The difficulty here was that the test-pins where on the other side as where the MPM 7200-A was, and with those tiny bga-vias it was real hard to trace.
Some pictures of the board (before stripping)
The front side of the Mainboard (it is a single board device, apart from speakers, LCD and antenna no further external parts, all on one board!)
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Backside with foil still on it (this side is facing the front of the device)
Backside without Foil and here are the JTAG testpins:
The Pins I traced:
RTCK
TDO
TDI
TCK
TMS
TRST-N
*other pins:
Mode 0 (between TRST-N and TDI)
Will be checking for other pins on request (btw: sofar watchdog, mode 1,2,3 are not (yet) found)
These should suffice to JTAG the device.
For those in need of testpoints for reference voltage etc..:
Other info:
Memory module (on this board):
Hynix H8BES0UQ0MCA
More info Regarding JTAG as being used to debrick HTC Dream
Regards,
EqX
Great work equinoxe!!
orb3000 said:
Great work equinoxe!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well thanks for the board in the first place, without it I wouldn't be able to trace the pins!
Regards,
EqX
Sounds interesting, could you explain what this could be used for?
12
one use for JTAG is to flash the device at a low level (i.e. lower than the bootloader) - one use for this method of flashing is that you can recover from a bad bootloader flash
There are plenty of other uses too, that's just one
Kewl! I didn't know that
Very informative
Very good work, the first step to a device picking up momentum in a modding community is to find the JTAG pins, nice!
is this something awesomely awesome?
i mean does it enable us to do something cool which we couldnt do before?
You can eg. repair a hardbricked device.
Since you are entering the device on a lower level than the bootloader.
Lots of possibilities.
EqX
so, could this be used to enable iSecretary to work as a genuine answeringmachine? To send audio directly and not through speaker? And record incomming, ofcourse.
Goog work man !
can you make a high resolution picture to me?, i need to see all the CIs, to help in android development?, to see the diferences of decoders and encoders from the other devices.
@ Maikeu:
Regards,
EqX
Sounds interesting
To use the JTAG, you need some equipment, it does not connect to a PC's USB or serial port. And you need knowledge and software to delete everything in flash and reprogram stuff like a bootloader, radio or ROM.
I think this information is very usefull for some Topaz cracks, but not very usefull for most users.
My proposal to the moderator: Unstick this thread and put a link for it into the [ROLLUP MUST READ]ROM resources: HardSPL, Unlocking, Custom RUU, Kitchens, Radios thread, that's where it belongs.
can I ask for assistance in disassembling the td2 or could someone point me in the direction of a how to on the AT&T pure. I'm stuck getting the outer case of the back since the battery door is different than the original touch diamond 2. Thank you
does that look like an external antenna connector I see on the main board?
dna24 said:
can I ask for assistance in disassembling the td2 or could someone point me in the direction of a how to on the AT&T pure. I'm stuck getting the outer case of the back since the battery door is different than the original touch diamond 2. Thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Remove the plastic piece on the front (it is attached with only some double sided tape), beneath the plastic you can see the screws.
accord91lx said:
does that look like an external antenna connector I see on the main board?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, there are 3 external connectors but tmk not accessible without disassembly.
@the-equinoxe----thank you so much, that worked perfectly, you da man
Hi there, i need to know if is there a way to force the audio output by the headphone jack. I'm having problems with the headphone detection and they are constantly self-switching between them and the loudspeaker. It's not a software problem, i've tested many roms and the problem is always present .
Thanks!
Then it maybe a hardware problem. did you check it with the se center?
Cleaning and checking the port might get you something.
OR wait for someone else to post their ideas
Tim
I've tried several things with the connector, clean up, re-solder... but still having the problem. I'm sure that the audio output is working, but the detection is failing, so if i could simulate or force the detection of the headphones even without the headphones plugged, making the audio output going trough the audio jack i will be able to make more tests or even solve the problem the cheaper way. I,ve bring the phone to the service center and they say that is impossible for them to repair it.
Any idea?
Thanks!
YESSSS I've solved it! after getting the electronics schematics of the phone, I recognized the plug detection part of the circuit. after that, I've tested all the components in that circuit to discard a processor failure. I've founded a resistance broken. It was under a protection of solid paste cover, so I've got to remove it forcing it mechanicaly. After that I getted a new one and invented a way to solder it by putting the resistance in a more accesible place and wiring to the PCB points.
Anyway, I think that an app to force the audio output without the real presence of the headphones could be useful...
Tomorrow I'll post a photo of the repair.
Thanks, that'd be very nice of you! I for one am very interested in how you repaired it.
OK, here are the images...
The schematics were downloaded from here:http://www.cpkb.org/wiki/Sony_Ericsson_E10i_Xperia_X10_mini_service_manual. There are many service manuals from all brands.
The first image is the schematic of the PCB. X3600 is the 7pin 3.5 Jack. It has 11 soldering points, 4 of them are between the jack and the PCB and the soldering method is by BGA station due this. But, that 4 soldering points are those extra pins for the remote control. They are not indispensable.
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The second image is the electronics schematic. Is only the part of the jack connector. You can see a circuit starting in the pin nº4 that is named PLUG DETECT, so here is where we have to look. Its simple, it start in the 4pin, goes trough 2 resistors (R3601 33Kohms, R3600 200Kohms) and reach the N1500, wich is the qualcomm processor. Knwowing that, I've tested those resistors, and identifyed the ons failling, that is marked on the first image.
I've removed the broken resistor, and picked a new one from an old CD Reader. Here you have a page that shows how to read SMD resistors
http://www.dinastiasoft.com.ar/Tecnologia/Resistencias.htm Anyway, after founding the resistor, I've checked it with the multimeter. The value of the resistor needed was on the schematics and was 33Kohms.
The problem here was that the new resistor was bigger than the old one, so I have to make a way to solder it. I've solved it by picking a flat cable from the same CD reader and cutting it to have only 2 wires. After that, I've soldered the resistor on one end, and the wired resistor to the PCB points. Added some insulating tape, to avoid any undisired contact with other component or the test points below.
After all that, I've turned on the phone and YES! it worked perfectly!
My X10 was back!
Wow! Nice work, dude!
And very interesting website, thanks.
There is a now an app to fix it. toggleheadset2. It worked for my xperia mini pro.
The speaker on my Razr is no longer working, it had been intermittent for a while (working for a day, then not working for a few) but it hasn't worked at all this week. Occasionally a hard reboot (power button plus volume down) will make it start working again but its also been a while since that has worked.
I've already exchanged one Razr for a speaker not working and Amazon won't exchange the phone again for the same issue. Instead they want to offer me credit towards a different phone. Since I got the Razr during the penny sale, that doesn't help me much.
Has anyone seen or heard of this issue before and are there any fixes? Do you know if its a software or a hardware problem? I love the phone, its just very frustrating that the speaker doesn't work.
I may have the same problem..
Is it only the back speaker which is down ?
Sorry but so far my only (and no-efficient) solution was hard reboot
Yeah, its the rear speaker. Hard booting sometimes works but not always. Seems more like a hardware issue because I can tap the speaker when it stops working and it will sometimes start working again.
Having the same issue, the main speaker sometimes gets turned off (especially when micro usb is inserted, and then pulled out).
What usually helps is to gently press on the silver MOTOROLA logo on the top of the phone (in the middle of the logo).
So looks like when inserting/ pulling out micro usb cable, somehow something gets moved inside, so the contacts are shifted, which is screwing the speaker)????
Looks like will go back to the store :-( if this continues.
The ringtone speaker is glued to the backplane of the phone.
It's connected via two spring loaded connectors. (Dumb solution imo)
I believe some electrical contact cleaner could solve the problem.
Must be one WITHOUT oil! The oil might enter the lens.
Detail picture:
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My suggestion for a fix is this:
Step 1:
Remove plastic backing on the camera. Carefully!
You don't need to remove the entire kevlar backing.
(As you can see the backplate was made very ugly by the ifixit crew)
Step 2:
Hold the phone like the picture, and apply a miniscule amount of contact cleaner here, the idea is to make the cleaning solution hit the two springs and contact pads.
Step 3:
Tap and press the area around the speaker carefully, the idea being to rub the connectors slightly while wet.
Let it dry and keep it lying in this direction, you don't want this stuff in the camera!
All images taken from ifixit.
I take no responsibility for any damage, this would be a last resort type of fix if you can't get a warranty claim for it. This obviously voids your warranty completely too.
Hi
I dissassembled my g5 a few days ago for observ the warming location. then. while I am trying to put battery and bottom part. I broke the motherboard plug pin piece. two pins. its antenna connection. I dig into this with my bad soldering iron. I ruined some ways and some smd cap. Now can you explain it from the picture. could we make new ways and could we put the smd s on its places or new places. I cant find the schematic of board.
Could you explain schematic where only this broke location. ?
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I have the same problem trying to repare the screen from my girlfriend old phone. The screen is now replaced, but I broke this tab during the disassembly. Now the phone cant make or receive any calls or sms.. It can search for service but cannot log onto them. So, I looked on the pcb with my multimeter and find the 2 connections to make. Ill try to solder it back together.
thesebroy said:
I have the same problem trying to repare the screen from my girlfriend old phone. The screen is now replaced, but I broke this tab during the disassembly. Now the phone cant make or receive any calls or sms.. It can search for service but cannot log onto them. So, I looked on the pcb with my multimeter and find the 2 connections to make. Ill try to solder it back together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good, this thread isn't too dead Did you have success with soldering them back? I'm thinking of shipping mine to a repair shop with microsoldering technology.
Hello,
I'm repairing PCB's for a hobby, and my opinion would be ...
just buy a new Mainboard, they schould be unter 90$(new), repairing would be more expensive, even if it is "only a few components".
The two pins on the top right are mechanically important to connect into something, it will be really hard to get those strong enough, if they're broken.
Without a datasheet i would guess those caps, could be bypass caps, and maybee the're not really needed.
hello,
while fixing my gps I broke the same thing, the antenna pins connecting to the chin. ???
Has anyone managed to fix this?
Regards
Hey guys, long time reader, first time poster here (and it's a long one too).
My OnePlus X is my daily driver and I was planning on using it for some more years if this is fixable
Recently the USB port started to fail, so I decided to replace the part. A little setback was that i also had to replace the GSM antenna cable, which I had damaged during disassembly. So far so good, the phone is now charging again and reception and mobile data are working fine.
However, ever since the repair my Wifi reception has gone to ****, it is now so bad that it's pretty much unusable even when right next to the router. I've come to the conclusion that this is not a problem with the antenna cable replacement, as removing this cable only kills cell reception, wifi is unchanged. You can see the cable i'm talking about running into the long side of the frame in the bottom of this
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, with the golden connector on the lower edge of the motherboard (the other side connects to the USB flex cable, under the metal housing on the right). I believe the Wifi chipset itself is contained within the small housing in the upper middle of the board, with the + sign.
So now on to my question:
Does anyone know where exactly the wifi antenna on this phone is located? I'm assuming that it is being routed into the plastic/metal housing cover that's over the mainboard. I've made sure that none of the pins on the motherboard that connect to the housing cover are missing/bent or corroded. I've angled them up a little bit and cleaned them with alcohol to ensure a good contact.
But still, no wifi. Is it possible that the wifi chip itself got damaged in the repair and is there any way to find out?
Hopefully someone here knows something useful, I would be eternally grateful
Did you ever find a fix? I am having similar problems for one plus 3t
No, zero news on that front. I did some superficial research but was unable to pin-point the fault. I had to replace the phone, sadly.