In continuation of this topic http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=284909, i used all the information collected in this forum and other forums and i will briefly present you the procedure i used to modify XGPS car kit, so that it provided me with audio/microphone outputs, so that i can connect it to my car stereo, using it's line-in OR using an RF modulator.
First of all, i disassembled my car kit, using just a screwdriver
Then, using a soldering iron, i removed the integrated speaker (since i will not need it).
After that, i removed the existing 2.5mm connector, and i cut all the wires that lead to it. I used some plastic welding epoxy, to give strength to the plastic base that the PDA "sits". I then drilled a hole, in order to insert the new 2.5mm 4 conduct plug!
This is the new plug, taken out off my old handsfree
And this is how it looks inserted into its place
Then, i screwed it back on the car kit, and i used my "Wizard" in order to assure that it fits as before. With the "Wizard" still in place, i put some plastic welding and finished!!! Wait for 15 minutes for the epoxy to dry, and my 2.5mm 3 conduct factory plug, is replaced with a 4 conduct taken out of my old unused handsfree
I prepared 2 small "boxes", for holding speaker/microphone connectors(rear box) and for adding some small blue leds to give my mod a more "artistic" look(front box)!!! I mainly used some acrylic sheet(2mm) and aluminium sheet(1mm). I curved acrylic by heating it, using a heat gun i had. Generally, i had almost all the necessary tools/material already from my previous PC mods.
Acrylic boxes and alluminium covers, we painted black using a spray gun. The rear box, was(i have to admit) better prepared. I'm already planning to redesign the "front" box.
Rear and front boxes are screwd on the factory cradle.
Some more pics!!!
Here are the connectors i'll use. 2 for speakers(stereo-black) and 2 for microphones(mono-beige). I'll explain more on my decision in next posts
Here are the connectors mounted on the rear box
Here is my hand!!!
Alright!!! It took me some practise in order to solder the small wires of my old handsfree. In fact, i extended them using some wires i had, so that soldering on the connectors would be easier-and it was!!!
Now, why did i use more connectors than needed? The reason is simple. The connectors are setup as master-slave(at least in Computer hardware, this is how it's called). That means, one of each 2 connections of each type (speaker/microphone) come first. So, i'm planning to connect the 2nd connector to my car stereo(maybe using an RF transmitter). If i need to make a private call(that means cancel audio from my car stereo), then i simply plug in a stereo headset. This way, i can hear from the headset, without having audio from my car stereo! If i change my mind, i simply unplug the headset, and audio is directed again to my car stereo. Hope i didn't make it very complicated!!! The same applies for microphone (i already bought a small cheap microphone from ebay).
Now, on the picture below, you may notice a greenish layer(actuall it's ocean blue). This is actually some sort of UV acrylic. Some leds are inside the front box, so that when connected to the car, it displayes a light blueish color (Uv acrylic makes it look fantastic!!!)
Now, you can preview the back cover(made off 1mm aluminium) of my cradle. It's also painted the same black color. 4 holes will be used to insert 4 black rivets to secure it in place
Unfortunately no more pictures for now... I'll try to post more in the next days, as the cradle is ready and already installed in my car. I get power from my car's switch(12V) to drive the cradle and an RF transmitter (Monster Radioplay 300). My stock head unit doesn't have an audio-in, so this explains my decision. Sound is perfect when using it for handsfree (no echo, great sound). Now, when playing music, it sounds as it gets from a strong radio station, so i guess this means success!!! Plus, i have the option to connect it to my future head unit (if it has a line-in of course!!!).
Now, my next steps;
1)I'll redesign the front cover, so that it looks more tidy(i used some ugly screws-paint also is very glossy)
2)I'll make a small stand for my car, to mount the RF transmitter and the microphone.
3)Prepare my "Wizard" for speach recognition, used to make calls-play songs etc-Do you have any suggestions on that?
So.... more pictures to come in the next days!!! Pls ask for any questions or any help you need if you want to make something similar or better OR if you have any suggestions/questions
Related
I was wondering if anyone has opened the standard TyTN headphone plastic connector box? I want to change my headphones but need to get into the case. Does it just clip apart or is it sealed(glued)?
I can't afford to make a mistake as they are not available in South Africa yet.
It's very simple. There is no glue in it. Just get a very sharp knife and separate two parts (they are connected together with clips).
I've already replaced original headphones with Creative EP-630 isolator headphones.
Difference is very sugnificant!
I took some pics.
Put your nail into slit.
http://blog46.fc2.com/b/bdriven/file/_0010354.jpg
then you can open it.
http://blog46.fc2.com/b/bdriven/file/_0010356.jpg
direction & position of nails
http://blog46.fc2.com/b/bdriven/file/_0010365.jpg
solder of headphone
http://blog46.fc2.com/b/bdriven/file/_0010370.jpg
If you can't see pics directly, please follow from article(written in Japanese).
http://bdriven.blog46.fc2.com/blog-entry-39.html
Thank you all. - got the job done with confidence. Actually the case opens even easier than I thought.
Regards
can you guys explain step by step what it is necessary to do and if possible to post more pictures of the process.
dimushor said:
can you guys explain step by step what it is necessary to do and if possible to post more pictures of the process.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmmm...
open the mic box
unsolder the headphones
solder new headphones
close mic box
That's all. Not so difficult.
All you need is soldering iron, solder, flux, wire stripper(or knife), and new headphones.
When you cut & strip wire of new headphone, you'll see where to solder.
Red to RIGHT, green(or blue) to LEFT, the others to GND.
This article will help you.
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=handsfreethatdoesntsoundlikecrap
There is another way to change headphones.
http://www.4winmobile.com/tutorial-replace-hermes-headset-connector-with-35mm-socket-vt3146.html
or, if you don't need mic,
http://www.expansys.com/p.aspx?i=138247
# I'm sorry for my terrible English.
Wizard desk Stand on the Cheap
Ok so I was kind of envious of my friend’s HP iPAQ 6340- primarily because it looked slick on his desk sittin a pretty in its desk stand. So when I saw an old Casio stand (I think it came from a Casio but I don’t know for sure) in a tech junk shop I picked it up with an idea. The thing was so useless that I got it for free. It was all scratched up and had a white paint smear on its side! It was not even a perfect fit for the Wizard, but then, it did come for free.
I already had a 2.5-3.5 stereo converter as well as an extra USB Mini cord. All the things I needed for my stand. And yes My trusted battery operated drill.
I began by ripping out the existing circuitry present in the stand. The Stand had a non-functional tilt mechanism (It would have been cool if it was working). Since a crucial spring was missing and it did not add any extra functions, I decided to do away with the tilt thing and hot glued the Base and the receiver fixed at the standard 65 deg angle.
The existing connectors were of no use so I just drilled them out. Then carefully measured the center of the slot and drilled a hole for the mini USB. (remember the slot was much wider than the vertical Wizard and much smaller than a horizontal wizard). With a cardboard cutout made by tracing the bottom part of the Wizard, I was able to get near perfect measures. From the same cutout I also marked-off the location of the 2.5 stereo pin. I adjusted the required height of the pin and the USB plug by actually plugging in the Wizard. The USB plug and the stereo pin were then hot glued to the receiver base.
The Casio had a translucent ‘start’ button and I had salvaged the LED that was part of the original circuit. I spliced the USB cable and soldered the LED leads to the + and – wires (carefully and not messing with the data wires). Now I also had a LED charging light (Ok it does nothing but look cool). Some more hot glue to fix every thing into position and it was done. I fixed a fairly heavy metal bolt to the underside of the base with industrial grade duct tape to provide extra stability.
I even drilled a hole to one side for the extra stylus. So there, a stand for the Wizard.
I am able to charge the Wiz on my desk- it looks real cool with Innobek Side window running. I am also able to use a wall wart with USB female to charge the Wiz while I play tunes on it with the audio piped through my Music system.
Time Spent- 20 minutes
$$- 0
Next upgrade- sand and paint the thing (I guess Black would look nice)
Pretty cool looking. Nice job.
First, let me say I'm a bit more of a hack than a hacker. My soldering skills are based on a heathkit I built 20 years ago, and my dremel is old an out-of-balance. Still, I'm getting a new car (well, truck, actually) and wanted a good mount to go with my 8525.
Cutting right to the chase, I took an 8125 mount ($35), a martin fields stereo adapter ($10), the dual adapter that came with the kit, an FME male antenna adapter ($10), a radio shack panel mount stereo 1/8" socket ($4), and $1 worth of epoxy, and cut, ground, spliced, soldered, epoxied, and reassembled to get the net result below. Total time was about 2 hours, but most of that was spent running between my office in the house and the workshop to get various tools / drill holes (I have a cheap drill press, which made drilling for certain parts marginally easier).
If I can find another hour, I'll try to write up a step-by-step if anyone is interested, along with a linked list of parts.
I'm very much interested!
Not to burst your bubble but.......
http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=15879&cat=2380&page=1
or
http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=12660&cat=1801&page=1
And they are only 28.00 bucks
fresh801 said:
Not to burst your bubble but.......
http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=15879&cat=2380&page=1
or
http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=12660&cat=1801&page=1
And they are only 28.00 bucks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
those dont have audio out.. and the 2nd one is for the 8125/wizard, not the 8525/hermes... i am very interested in this project since i have one of those cradles laying around from my 8125... never thought about using the Y adapter.. good call since i dont use it for anything else..
fresh801 said:
Not to burst your bubble but.......
http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=15879&cat=2380&page=1
or
http://www.daydeal.com/product.php?productid=12660&cat=1801&page=1
And they are only 28.00 bucks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, aside from the audio out and antenna connector, the more unusual hack in this is the landscape format with the ability to open the keyboard (or, more exactly to leave it open) while it is docked.
Since I'm running short of time this weekend, the key to getting this to work is to open the back of the 8125 cradle and pop off the connector (gently) and remove the glue that holds it in place. You'll need to dremel out the "top" of the cradle to allow the 8525 to fit.
To get the new connector, I just - carefully - stripped the plastic away from the 2-in-1 connector that came with the unit. Of course the connector is in a different place than the 8125, so you have to cut a new one. I used a marble-sized wad of play-doh rolled and flattened into a 1cm x 3cm patty and pushed it gently into the bottom (connector side) of the cradle. Then I gently slid my 8525 into the cradle so that the connector would make an impression in the playdoh. I them removed the 8525 (keeping the playdoh in the cradle) and "marked" the corners of the connector location with a pin (just push thourhg to make a dot). I heated a utility knife (xacto-like) in my gas stove and gently scored from point to point. A dremel with a fine tip then hogged out the area so that the coneector would fit. I also drilled the location for the antenna at this point (same playdoh trick, but just a single pin prick in the center of the hole area).
Now, to secure the conenctors in the right place, I put the 8525 in the cradle, flipped the whole think upside-down, pushed in the connectors into place, and then put epoxy on both connector areas.
***warning*** the epoxy is likely to "leak through" the old connector location, and around the connectors if your holes aren't pretty tight. BEFORE you put the unit in the cradle for the epoxy step, cover the bottom and antenna area with scotch tape, and just cut out the exact connector area with a knife. This will keep any errant epoxy from making the cradle a permanent fixture on you unit!
I did need to use scotch tape to make a "dam" around the usb connector because it was so thin it wouldn't mound up (set too slowly).
Everything else was just connecting up wires (the M-F conenctor was tough to strip cleanle and I broke the ground wire, but just soldered another one on).
Hey
I have always changed the standard Htc earplugs, changed them to better earpieces. And yes, this is what I did with the Hero Headset to.
The modification is done because I see no reason why not. The Koss Portapro is going to be much more useful (for me at leased). More useful because of the microphone, and the controller for music and phonecalls, though it's still a regular headset.
The guide:
You'll need some stuff :
The Htc Hero headset
A Koss Portapro (or other earpieces that you want to use.)
Superglue
A soldering iron (+ soldering tin)
Miniature screwdrivers
When you got those parts ready, we'll start with the Htc headset. Take off the little Rubber ring. And gently use a small screwdriver(flat is probably best) to pop the speaker out.
like this
If you look closely the Left earpiece has 2 wires, one yellow] and one green, the Right earpiece has one yellow and one red.
Use the Soldering Iron to get the wires loose from the Htc Hero Headset. Gently use a screwdriver to push the wires down in the earpiece when the wires are loose. Then gently pull the core out.
Take off all puffy stuff attached to the Koss, detach them from the "frame" and use a screwdriver to pop open(break) the cover over the cables solder points.
Take a closer look and remember where the Red and the Green was attached. I noticed on my Koss, that the coloured wires was soldered on that side with the little red dot.
At last solder the right wires on the right place. Gently squeeze the wire into the "holder" and use the superglue to glue the "hatch" inplace. Careful if you use a strong glue.. You'r finger are at risk..
Attach the speakers to the "frame" and take the protective puffy foam on them again and try them out!
Hope this was helping for you eager Hero fans!
ps: I'm not responsible for any damage to your headsets or phone. Do this modification at own risk.
Fraction!
It looks great, Nice work
Im going to try this. I have like 4 or 5 koss porta pro lying around. And im not planning on using the Htc headsett. It got no bass
Did this with my Creative EP 630's Working awesome!
hero headset
Would that hero headset works on the htc HD ?????? PLEASE someone let us know !!
Really nice and easy to do, thanks a lot !
Very nice trick, works perfectly and it's really easy to realize !
Thanks a lot.
Did this with my favorite Sony in-ear buds. Worked a treat, even with my shoddy soldering skills.
@ shlomo78:
If the HD supports the controller on the Headsetwire, then yes this may work.
@ everybody:
Thanks guys, for the replayes, I'm greatful. The kind of tutorials like this is helpful and fun to read, and i hope more people will make similar about otherstuff
The Archos 101's speakers are overdriven, so many people are having speakers crap out, even after getting replacements. I replaced mine with higher wattage/sensitivity speakers, and now have no speaker failure, and much better sound quality and loudness. I used two Mouser.com Part # 253-CE221-RO.
I'm not going to bother with pictures, as it's quite simple:
1. Unscrew the Torx screws on back, 6 total. The two closest to the side buttons are longer, make sure you note this. A Torx 4 or 5 bit will be needed, though you could file a flatedge down in a pinch to make it work.
2. Slowly pry open the edges of the case with a plastic wedge. There are free ones included with lots of phone repair kits, or you can file something down in a pinch. Use a flatedge screwdriver if you don't care about scratching the case, but don't push it too far in if it's metal.
3. Once all the clips have popped, open the halves until you see the big flat cable, that's the screens connector. Disconnect it from the back of the screen. Slowly! It has adhesive behind it, let it slowly come apart so you don't rip the aluminum shield on the back of the screen.
4. The Power/Volume buttons will probably fall out, they are all attached together, just set it to the side. Lay the two sides open on a table. There are still 2 things connecting the halves to each other, but you don't need to remove them if you keep the halves close together.
5. Unsolder the old speakers and pry them out. There is a little strip of adhesive holding them in. If you can keep it in place, you can use it to affix the new speakers. Make sure you center the new ones in the hole, there will be a couple of millimeters space left over. Make sure the plastic cone of the speaker will not be touching any adhesive underneath it. If you make sure it's centered, you shouldn't have a problem. Use a couple dots of hot glue to firmly affix them in their holes. Don't overdo it, you don't want glue to seep under the speaker and touch the cones.
6. Reverse the takedown procedure to put everything back together, don't forget the Power/Volume button strip. Also, don't overtighten the screws, you will see a very slight depression on the front of the tablet where the screws are, if it's a noticeable depression, back the screws out a quarter turn.
7. Boot up and enjoy. Make sure you turn the volume down a bit before playing, these speakers are louder than the originals. At full blast it feels like it's going to vibrate the screen to pieces.
I also ripped off my micro usb port, so for anyone with very good soldering skills, or alot of solder braid(and balls), the part number for that is ZX62D-B-5P8. I had to use trace ribbon(Flexible Flat Cable) to remake the traces, as they were ripped off as well. Crack open an old CD-ROM or check the bottom of an old hard drive to find some with the correct pitch if needed.
I'm also adding front speakers on the right hand-hold, kind of like the A70(no room for one on the left on A101). Post a reply if you'd like a parts list and tutorial for that process.
Just finished the testing. I'm updating the OP with results and guide.
Thanks for posting the detailed instructions. Might have to give this a try, given that one of my speakers blew after a couple of weeks. Also intrigued by the front speaker....
How did you identify which speakers would be a suitable replacement?
Yes please, I'd love to have the part list and detailed tutorial for adding front speakers to the A101IT because I can go right down the street to Mouser Electronics because I live close to there and know where it is!
So how well do these new Kobitone Speakers from Mouser fit inside the A101IT; Is it a tight fit or loose one? Also, what is the difference in speaker size (if any difference) and are the stock A101IT speakers' shape circle like the Mouser ones or oval?
Thanks mate!
fisha21 said:
Thanks for posting the detailed instructions. Might have to give this a try, given that one of my speakers blew after a couple of weeks. Also intrigued by the front speaker....
How did you identify which speakers would be a suitable replacement?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've built alot of custom electronics, so I measured the old ones and used a bit of experience to guess the rest. There is a couple of millimeters of space left around the speaker, but it's super close, and the original speakers actually have an extra plastic case on them because they couldn't find cheap enough speakers that fit exactly. You won't find a closer match in size to the originals, and they have the best sound of any speaker in this size range.
spicy_puerto_rican: The stock speakers are round, with a large plastic collar to make them slightly larger. My replacements are a few mils smaller, but even the originals needed adhesive to hold them in, so the size difference really isn't an issue. As I said, they have the best sound quality and volume of anything in the size range.
With the loudness of the new speakers, I've decided not to bother putting front speakers in, but if you open your archos, you'll see there is so much space in the right hand-hold you could do almost anything in there. Feel free to experiment.
Thank you! My speakers went bad. I followed your instructions and the new speakers work great. It was difficult, but it would have been even harder without your instructions.
Jason
Tesla74 said:
Thank you! My speakers went bad. I followed your instructions and the new speakers work great. It was difficult, but it would have been even harder without your instructions.
Jason
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem. It's been a couple of months now and they still sound good...