the data connector on the missus' new phone is *way* too stiff. I'm convinced it's going to break at some point.
Is there anything that can be done to make it fit a little less snugly? i thought it'd get better over time but it hasn't so far...
I know what you mean, if you look on the back of the plug you will see a little dimple of metal sticking up that does the locking part. What I did was very carefully file it flat and now the plug just slips in easily, it is very small so be careful with filing it down.
mine broke indeed... it pulled out with the charger... ended up putting a new core in from a parts phone off ebay... had to unlock, etc though... good call with the filing...
did the exact same thing batfrog,but I used the rough edge of a flathead screwdriver.Whenever I get to open the phone I might go in there and put in some epoxy behind the connector for kicks....
Unless you are swinging the phone around your head like a lasso..the connector is way too tight..it almost seems like it was designed to break..planned obsolescence anyone?
Related
Does anyone know how to take a G-Tab apart and repair a broken power connector? My son pulled it off of the table where it was charging and it landed squarely on the adapter where it was plugged into the GTab. Everything else works, but charging, of course, does not.
stalnakerz said:
Does anyone know how to take a G-Tab apart and repair a broken power connector? My son pulled it off of the table where it was charging and it landed squarely on the adapter where it was plugged into the GTab. Everything else works, but charging, of course, does not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Buy a dock, that's what I did
stalnakerz said:
Does anyone know how to take a G-Tab apart and repair a broken power connector? My son pulled it off of the table where it was charging and it landed squarely on the adapter where it was plugged into the GTab. Everything else works, but charging, of course, does not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Choice 1: Buy a dock.
Choice 2: Open it up and solder it back in.
Choice 3: Sell your son to a slave labor camp and use the money to buy a new tablet.
Stolen from another forum about performing a hardware reset:
Disassemble the tablet. Remove the four rubber stoppers on the bottom of the tablet (put them aside). Next, unscrew the screws under them (keep those too). Next we need to get the back half of the tablet off. Put the tablet face down on a piece of paper or another protective material. Gently work one corner of the tablet until the two halves are slightly separated, then use something thin like a business card to keep them slightly parted. You can then use something thin and strong, like a plastic gift card to zip around the edges and break the seal. Prying will only damage your plastics.
snowzach said:
Stolen from another forum about performing a hardware reset:
Disassemble the tablet. Remove the four rubber stoppers on the bottom of the tablet (put them aside). Next, unscrew the screws under them (keep those too). Next we need to get the back half of the tablet off. Put the tablet face down on a piece of paper or another protective material. Gently work one corner of the tablet until the two halves are slightly separated, then use something thin like a business card to keep them slightly parted. You can then use something thin and strong, like a plastic gift card to zip around the edges and break the seal. Prying will only damage your plastics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
pulling it apart is one thing, resoldering the connection is another. I've read that it's really tricky (and small) Mine started acting up, had to have the plug on a weird angle for the tablet ot start charging. I thought it was the chord, but it must be the hardware inside the tablet that caused it. I bought a dock, and a second charger...the dock works BEAUTIFULLY for charging, and for watching movies on the big screen via the HDMI port on the dock...
Viewsonic G connector input jack power jack
If you need to replace the jack, you can get it at Ebay.....just type in Viewsonic G jack or power jack and they have them there.
Hey Everyone.
While sitting on my living room floor, I dropped my Prime & Dock from about a foot high onto the carpet. Murphy's Law: Gravity will always exert a greater force on the weakest part of your device. The Prime landed on the charging connector. I thought for sure the wire itself would be kinked up and broken (My mind is racing: "can I get a new cable from somewhere in less than 18 hours?! Argh!") As it turns out, the cable was fine, but the port itself was broken.
The little plastic comb that separates the upper pins from the lower pins was broken and had fallen out. I figured I would have to send the dock into Asus to be repaired one way or another, so I thought I'd take a stab at a repair. I used my smallest two flathead screwdrivers (PC-repair sized) to gently bend the upper pins further up and the lower pins lower down. I describe how little of an adjustment I'm talking about here- it has to create just enough room for you to slip the comb piece back in, but not be so much that the charge wire won't flatten them back down when you first connect it.
To make the comb stick, I used the smallest imaginable amount of superglue at either end of the comb piece. It seems the plastic is a little thicker there and there aren't any pins (that might get coated with glue) at the very ends. I used small needle-nose pliers to insert the comb and held it tight for a few seconds. I then put the dock in position so that the comb was facing straight up, so that gravity (grrr) wouldn't pull the comb piece down out of perfect vertical alignment while the glue cured. I left it overnight just to be safe.
Next morning, I plugged in the power connector and all was well. I've probably plugged and unplugged it 20 times or so now, and it feels reasonably solid. Mind you, I have NO doubt that this fix is temporary. The second I trip on the power cord or forget to be gentle with the device that superglue is going to let go. At that point maybe I'll send the dock off for repair. I just couldn't part with it this early on, knowing Asus is dealing with about a zillion more important fish to fry right now.
So, If you happen to have the same problem- give some glue a shot. It worked for me!
Kudos! I can't ask you to recreate and photo lol
But if anyone else runs into this, please take some macros of the process to give people a good idea of just how much bending of the pins is needed.
Naturally. I thought of taking pictures the next morning after everything was working again.
If the comb breaks out again, I'll probably attempt one more repair before I send it to Asus. If and when that happens I'll post up some pics.
As far as the bending of pins, I just pressed gently and tried to insert the comb piece with pliers. If it seemed too difficult to do with glue on the broken piece, I just set it down and pried on the pins a bit more. I guess if you looked at them, you would have been hard-pressed to tell if they were any wider than normal. The telling fact was being able to slide the broken piece back into the pins fairly easily. Once I could do that, I actually applied the glue, inserted the piece, and let it set up.
Hi there, it's only me or the cover for USB and HDMI (but the second one is less important) sucks? opening it's ok with my nail but get back in closed position is hard -.-, and I have the fear to break the small plastic connection :S tips? I'm thinking about remove them...
I have got a technique to do it, but it's hard to explain. I push the top of the cover inside first, then the bottom.
Cholek3 said:
I have got a technique to do it, but it's hard to explain. I push the top of the cover inside first, then the bottom.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly, it slides in at an angle, then click in the bottom.
I agree it looks flimsy; I had the same fear with the usb port cover on my X10 though, and it lasted well over 2 years of daily charging.
I am used to it now, it's still pointless though. My Nexus One had no cover and the USB port is still working fine after well over 2 years. I don't know why some manufacturers think a cover is necessary.
3Shirts said:
I am used to it now, it's still pointless though. My Nexus One had no cover and the USB port is still working fine after well over 2 years. I don't know why some manufacturers think a cover is necessary.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's way prettier, obviously. I saw a picture on here with the cover removed, and it makes the design of the phone sink below sea level.
A flapless port only looks good on a phone with a metal or proper metal-color body. Like the Xperia P. But the Xperia S would look like crap without port flaps.
senne-vdb said:
It's way prettier, obviously. I saw a picture on here with the cover removed, and it makes the design of the phone sink below sea level.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah but that's because you are taking the flap off when it was designed with it on. Phones designed with a flush usb port and no flap look fine.
It's like saying cutting the roof off your SUV didn't look good. A convertible sports car looks ace.
I don't think the XS would look bad with no port flap. Look at the headphone socket, that's very nicely styled. If they'd done the same with USB I'd be happier.
My samsung tocco ultra had a similar style flap to the XS and lasted me 2 years just fine despite me thinking it would only last two days.
The galaxy s had a slide cover which mostly did the job but wasn't exactly pretty. The pins in micro usb are pretty fine wouldn't take much ingress to mess it up.
I think when the flap spare pieces are available online I will get one and make proper opening for USB for it and leave it there permanently.
Some smart manufacturer could make a delete with correct opening. They could have made it just like Xperia P and it would look very nice.
I was thinking about such same thing. Waiting for spare USB flap availability.
I wonder if a replacement flap could be worked into a clip on case?
Si
Sent from my LT26i using XDA
Cholek3 said:
I have got a technique to do it, but it's hard to explain. I push the top of the cover inside first, then the bottom.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ace, works for me too. I'd been faffing something chronic til now with it but that's deffo the method.
Good to hear that other people have had previous, port-protected Sony's last a couple of years and more OK, especially with 2 year contracts almost being the norm these days. All told it's encouraging, therefore, to read that Sony seems to be some kinda master of the flaps.
Too much innuendo - fnar!
I find the flaps very sturdy so I don't mind if they are a bit of a learning experience. I pop the bottom part, then the top part and it works for me XD.
On my X10 it was easy to remove but it was pretty fragile, so I would rather have it the way it is now, then none at all .
Sent from my LT26i using XDA
i think, it's hard to say whether it is better to have those flaps or not to have them (like in the xperia arc). of course, it also depends on how often you use them.
because of wifi, usb is mostly only needed for flashing, but at least you have to oben the usb-flap once a day for charging
but at the end the phone looks better with them...
The flaps don't bother me that much, but what does bother me is how loose they become after you have opened them a few times. It makes it feel like there is a loose spot in the casing.
I just wanted to chip in here and say if you're worried about the flap, you are right to be. I left mine charging overnight and when I came to unplug it I noticed that the flap had a crack in both sides somehow - despite me being super careful with it. It's not broken - some kind of membrane within seems to be holding it together somehow - but it bends along the crack now and it's a matter of time before it snaps completely.
I don't like that flap design one bit... I thought the X10 had a bad flap design but this one is far worse, especially when you have the phone in a case. It's vulnerable when being charged, sticking out worryingly... hopefully spares will become available. I tried to glue it to reinforce it but it's not easy as the crack is only a hairline when sitting properly.
I don't like them, on mine it has become loose and doesn't latch in at the bottom properly anymore. It has also list it's matte black and is quite shiny now, as is also the 'chin' bit at the bottom under clear strip, there's a definite bit of wear under the back and home buttons. :-/ 3 months old :|
Sent from my LT26i using XDA
Ungruntled said:
I just wanted to chip in here and say if you're worried about the flap, you are right to be. I left mine charging overnight and when I came to unplug it I noticed that the flap had a crack in both sides somehow - despite me being super careful with it. It's not broken - some kind of membrane within seems to be holding it together somehow - but it bends along the crack now and it's a matter of time before it snaps completely.
I don't like that flap design one bit... I thought the X10 had a bad flap design but this one is far worse, especially when you have the phone in a case. It's vulnerable when being charged, sticking out worryingly... hopefully spares will become available. I tried to glue it to reinforce it but it's not easy as the crack is only a hairline when sitting properly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well my cover finally cracked the other day, the little tail that stays in the phone always cracked in half. So half is still stuck in the phone and then I have the whole cover left. It won't stay on anymore so must look for a new one.
Any one seen the USB cover for sale anywhere ?
Mine has broken too, found this on ebay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-HDMI-Cover-Button-Cap-Replacement-For-Sony-Ericsson-Xperia-S-LT26i-Black-/290718395563?pt=UK_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item43b02aacab#ht_1834wt_1037
Wondering if anyone has seen or knows of a right angle 40 pin charging connector? Either that or im hacking up a keyboard if i can find one cheap enough. Im dead set on getting this tab in my dash =D
Sent from my Transformer
What do you mean right angle? Do you mean so the cable is lines to to right rather than at the bottom on the sync/charge cable?
In that case - no, never seen. But its not super-hard to do it yourself. It will still stick stick out around 1cm though, because theres a PCB inside.
Although the PCB can be removed as well, but that requires some very fine soldering (we're talking pins that are like 0.7mm, if not less, with like 0.5mm spacing)
I had a hell of a time to just resolder the data cables on the cable, and the points are located on the PCB so theres only 2 'pins' near there. Soldering those cables on the connector itself would be.. ugh... *nightmares*
Lol no, no micro soldering for me. Just wondering if there has been or is or what miss match parts could possible go together to go from the existing 40 pin port down and back. Like a right angle but coming down and away from you. The ipads have em. But we arent comparing that crap here. I want to make a dock of sorts, to have fiberglassed in. Tab slides down and plugs in to charge. Thats why i mentioned hacking up a keyboard if need be.
Sent from my Transformer
Yeah ok. No I dont think theres any such cable.
But if you just want to angle the cable its quite easy, and if youre careful wont require any soldering.
All you need to do is open the cable up, cut a new hole for the cable in the casing, align it and reassemble it (it will probably have to be glued together again, or plastic welded, simple stuff really).
And even if you would manage to rip off the cables, the + and - cables are (relatively) big. ground is just soldered directly onto the shielding, and + is soldered to 3 pins next to each other, and theres only 1 other pin nearby you have to look out for, but that pin is sortof protected by some plastic thing (which will probably melt from the heat of the soldering iron though lol).
The hardest part of all this is actually opening the damn casing without damaging it too much
Curious if anyone is using the Palm Touchstone wireless charging mod for the SGS3. I got everything for a Palm Pre, touchstone, cable, etc.. Did the mod which was stupid easy... but the buldge of the back cover is driving me nuts. I have no idea how to make it more flush again. There is ZERO chance of putting an case on here now, for 1 it seems like the charging signal wouldn't be strong enough... and the buldge would absolutely prevent it.
Any help would be appreciated.
BTW: I used super thin 24 gauge wire out of a cable (like a usb cable/printer cable) to go from the palm pre charging pads to the pins of the sgs3.
I used the palm pixi's back for my mid. It is thinner that the pre's so there is less bulge.
Edit: I also used copper foil/tape to make my connections. I don't know if that would reduce bulge or not though.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
I read somewhere the pixi back was thinner but I read that after I ordered the pre back. I didn't have any copper foil tape so I used wire from a usb cable, and if I did use foil tape it seems like I would need something to push down into the phone connectors as they seem a tiny bit recessed.
Don't get me wrong, everything works, and charging works, but the bulge is noticeable and there is no way I could use a case back now. Glad I got the whole body Zagg invisible shield. :thumbup:
How did you address the phone connectors being deep inside? What did you use to make your foil tape touch the leads in the phone? I just kind of pushed the wires in there and used a little rape to prevent shorts.
T-Mobile Samsung Galaxy S3 SGH-T999 Tapatalk 2
On the Sprint model there is no sim card. If you cut a square out of the internal cover to the right of the microSD card you have a nice little space to hide the circuit board that causes the buldge. I just posted a question- where to buy the internal plastic cover? I don't want to risk screwing up my original.. BTW I used copper tape. On the pixie back I soldered the tape to the leads. For the phone connection I cut the tape too long and rolled it up to the spot it needed to be to make contact with the S3 contacts.
I have the touchstone and palm charging back. Is it possible to do this mod without soldiering the GS3?
Roll the tape up...:fingers-crossed: Sometimes I hate myself, I always think of the hardest way to do something.... Of course - why not roll the tape into a little ball. DUH!
I think I could probably get the bulge down a little, but I'm not sure it would make a lot of difference... I guess I could always just buy a pixi back and try again? or just wait for Sept and get the samsung kit.
I had read that the samsung kit will charge when the phone is relatively close by - I read 2 meters, but that doesnt sound right - that would be like 6ft... I would settle for 1 ft. The touchstone has to be RIGHT on it... If I had an otterbox case, I am 99% sure the magnetics wouldn't catch and I doubt think the charging field would work, because I can hold it just above the reach of the magnets and no charge. Touch it to the touchstone and BINGO.