I'm looking for a good way to connect my neck-strap to my phone preferably to the bottom. Currently It's connected to the thing mounted on my hard-case that is used to support the belt-clip. This is not convenient as the phone hangs from the center. I've solved this temporarily by using double adhesive tape between the hard-case and the neck strap but it keeps coming off after awhile.
The trend of skipping irDA on current devices is sad as I use it for my TV, 2 receivers and 360. I have my X50v with noviiRemote but unfortunately it locks up frequently. The device is really old and I think It's giving up. New batteries don't help. I've been thinking of connecting a small irDA dongle to the extUSB connector prefferably by using a shortextUSB->full size female type A USB cable. The alternative would be to buy an Ipaq 211 and a Ultramote CF card. The 21x series seems to be getting full Linux support soon (http://www.handhelds.org/moin/moin.cgi/HpIpaq214). Seems like the biggest problem is PCMCIA and WIFI.
At last, the extUSB->TypeA USB cable is great and I wonder if It's available somewhere? All I can find is miniUSB->TypeA USB.
Re: Ir:
I tried that route a few years ago with a PocketPC and found that the device is too expensive and too capable to use it as a remote and the Ir hardware is pretty weak, as it is not really designed for that kind of use. I have been using JP1 remotes for about 5 years and I am very happy to say that for about $20 in startup costs and a fairly small and interesting investment in the larning curve, I have had $15-$30 several remotes controlling all my AV hardware - and on occasion any other stray Ir-equipped device, such as my camera for taking high-zoom long distance shots, where I could not afford the shake from pressing the button. I have kids, that really tend to abuse the remotes, so I have had to replace them a couple of times - no worries, just re-program the new one and go, since they are so cheap.
JP1 framework can support just about any IR controlled device, map any/many functions to any buttons, control different devices at the same time, do macros, support remotes with LCD displays, etc.
Wikipedia article on JP1 has good links to get you started.
At last, the extUSB->TypeA USB cable is great and I wonder if It's available somewhere? All I can find is miniUSB->TypeA USB.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I couldn't find any stores/sellers on eBay that have extUSB cables. miniUSB works fine and I'd rather carry one sync cable than two if both devices use the same port.
Thanks for answering
SirGe said:
Re: Ir:
I tried that route a few years ago with a PocketPC and found that the device is too expensive and too capable to use it as a remote and the Ir hardware is pretty weak, as it is not really designed for that kind of use. I have been using JP1 remotes for about 5 years and I am very happy to say that for about $20 in startup costs and a fairly small and interesting investment in the larning curve, I have had $15-$30 several remotes controlling all my AV hardware - and on occasion any other stray Ir-equipped device, such as my camera for taking high-zoom long distance shots, where I could not afford the shake from pressing the button. I have kids, that really tend to abuse the remotes, so I have had to replace them a couple of times - no worries, just re-program the new one and go, since they are so cheap.
JP1 framework can support just about any IR controlled device, map any/many functions to any buttons, control different devices at the same time, do macros, support remotes with LCD displays, etc.
Wikipedia article on JP1 has good links to get you started.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have had no problems with the range on my X50v, however I'm sitting 2m from the equipment. If range is a problem I can add the Ultramote extender. The only dedicated remote that seems to fit my needs is the Harmony 1000 but it costs around the same as the Ipaq 211 and lacks bluetooth (in case someone figures out how to control the PS3 with Android, Familiar or WIndows mobile) and a whole bunch of other things (for ex wifi to control computer). I have upgraded the X50v firmware and I hope it will solve the lockup issues. It's slower now though. The 211 lacks IR and there is no info on the Ultramote site about newer devices without IR but I'm pretty sure it can be sorted out.
unknown.soul said:
I couldn't find any stores/sellers on eBay that have extUSB cables. miniUSB works fine and I'd rather carry one sync cable than two if both devices use the same port.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have read some reports that using miniUSB in an extUSB outlet can damage the outlet. During the Kaiser days, using the miniUSB cable inserted didn't feel right. It feels very loose. Also inserting miniUSB into my my G1 seems to require some violence to be honest.
Found it btw: http://cgi.ebay.com/GENUINE-HTC-USB...hash=item370116068747&_trksid=p3286.m63.l1177
Related
Does anyone use a Kensington or Targus AC power adapter? If so what number tip are you using? I have both and Targus came with a couple of adaptors that fit but I am not willing try them and fry my shift. Sent an email to both companies asking if they have a tip that supports the shift but no reply yet.
I like univeral power suppplies since all I have to do is carry one power supply and the a couple of different tips for the the various devices I take with me instead of 5 different power supplies when I travel. So far I cannot find one that lists the HTC shift.
update from Kensington
Well i did get a reply back from Kensington but it looks they don't support the shift yet
Subject
(Info) power adaptor tip for the HTC SHIF/X9500
Discussion Thread
Response (Asif Ali) 05/01/2008 04:44 PM
Dear steve:
Thank you for contacting Kensington Technical Support.
I understand your situation. I would like to inform you that according to the Specification of HTC Shift X9500, it is having DC output: 12Vdc, 3A max. Although we have Power Adapter which can handle this specification, yet we do not have the smartTip which will provide the exact specification. There might be a possibility that a smartTip may snugfit into the power port of the device as discussed in the forum, but again it depends on the smartTip to regulate the voltage. If it fails to regulate the proper voltage, it may harm the device.
We hope that your question has been answered to your satisfaction. Should you have further questions regarding this matter, please do not hesitate to contact us again.
Regards,
Asif Ali
Kensington Technical Support
I am currently using the Targus AC70u with tip #3
On the back is says Targus APA10 AC Power Adapter
Outputs: 15-24V ....65W Max
I have been using for several weeks without a problem. I keep this one at my office and the original one at home.
x5-rwk said:
I am currently using the Targus AC70u with tip #3
On the back is says Targus APA10 AC Power Adapter
Outputs: 15-24V ....65W Max
I have been using for several weeks without a problem. I keep this one at my office and the original one at home.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks x5-rwk!!!!!!
#3 was one of the two tips that seemed to fit I tested tehm without any power in the shift. I was to chicken to try it with power and smoke test my new my toy!
I have same Targus AC70u. Now I can take the Targus with me for the shift and all my other devices and leave the original one at home same as you.
Car charger as well?
Again thanks to x5-rwk, I can also confirm the Targus 70w Model APA10 with the #3 tips works as AC charger. I started looking at the Targus site and found this add-on for the APA10 it also uses the same tips. From what I understand it is the tips that regulate the voltage so this could be a car charger for the shift!? I ordered one from Amazon and will report back if it works.
Targus Universal Auto/Dual Digital Device Adapter
http://www.targus.com/us/product_details.asp?sku=APP2001US
stormforger said:
Again thanks to x5-rwk, I can also confirm the Targus 70w Model APA10 with the #3 tips works as AC charger. I started looking at the Targus site and found this add-on for the APA10 it also uses the same tips. From what I understand it is the tips that regulate the voltage so this could be a car charger for the shift!? I ordered one from Amazon and will report back if it works.
Targus Universal Auto/Dual Digital Device Adapter
http://www.targus.com/us/product_details.asp?sku=APP2001US
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
NOPE The tips (connectors) for the digital devices that you can connect for this add on to the Targus charger are a different pin out so you cant use the lap connectors with it. Only the one for for cell phone etc.
Back to searching.
stormforger said:
Again thanks to x5-rwk, I can also confirm the Targus 70w Model APA10 with the #3 tips works as AC charger. I started looking at the Targus site and found this add-on for the APA10 it also uses the same tips. From what I understand it is the tips that regulate the voltage so this could be a car charger for the shift!? I ordered one from Amazon and will report back if it works.
Targus Universal Auto/Dual Digital Device Adapter
http://www.targus.com/us/product_details.asp?sku=APP2001US
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear that the AC charger is working for you, sorry that the vehicle charger is not working out so well. I was going to place an order for one recently but have not done it yet.
iGo is good
I have an iGo charger I've used for about 4 years and I have a tip that fits and it charges just fine - I would suspect that the Kensington and Targus ones would work the same way. They are supposed to figure out the power load and deliver it in the right way . . . .
BTW it connects to laptop connector, not the cellphone one.
The Targus/Kensington/iGo tips are interchangeable between vendors (personal experience) so you should be fine. If it fits,it'll work
So which tip #?
Which igo tip are you using with the Shift successfully?
Thanks,
Rob
Sorry to dredge up an old thread, but can any of you who are sucessfully using Targus tip #3 tell me which laptops that tip is intended for (make & model, please)? I have a collection of Kensington adapters and tips, and it seems like some Toshiba tips fit, but I'm also scared to fry my Shift (especially as that tip outputs 19V). If I knew, however, that the tip I am trying is intended for the same machines as Targus #3, then presumably the specs are the same.
Thanks for the help.
Hi,
I have used multiple chargers.
As long as the voltage does not exceed 12V and the polarity is correct your shift shouldn't fry.
Lower Voltages don't harm the shift either. The shift just doesn't "feel" it's there.
I even had the polarity wrong once. The charge lite came on, but it didn't charge... I found out within minutes end corrected it, but my shift still works fine and teh battery doesnot seem to be damaged. (I don't know what would have happened if I would have left it like that overnigt though...)
greetz,
Pfeffa-rah
A cautionary tale
A follow up to my prior post, and cautionary tale:
I recently flew transatlantic on Virgin Atlantic (VS). While VS has in seat power available, due (I think) to UK government regulations there are two restrictions on use:
1) You need to use an adapter supplied by VS (they carry them onboard), not your own.
2) You need to remove the battery, so that you can only power your laptop, not recharge it.
The adapters that VS supplies are rebadged Targus equipment. Here’s the list of available adapters. Based on this thread and some testing of my own at home with my Kensington universal adapters, I felt confident that tip #3 would work. Note, however, that I tested what I had at home with a multimeter, and it registered 19V. Nevertheless, on the plane asked for #3 for my “Fujitsu”. Took out the battery and had no problem powering the Shift. Started to watch my movie.
About 10 minutes later, I noticed that the in seat entertainment screens of all the seats around me went out. I thought it was lucky I had my Shift with some movies stored.
10 minutes after that, the flight attendant came over, very apologetic, to say that a circuit breaker kept blowing for the entertainment system, and indicated an overload fault at my seat. We did some basic troubleshooting, switched the Targus adapter, and confirmed that everything was fine until the Shift was connected (Targus without Shift was OK), at which point they say the warning light. I was very politely asked if I could run on battery for the rest of the flight, which I did.
The incident has me worried though. We all assume that if the Shift doesn’t blow up, all is well. In fact the adapter may be trying to drive too high a voltage through the Shift, leading to feedback. A home electrical system with a 20A breaker may not be sensitive enough to detect this, but an aircraft system might be.
The other thing that concerns me is that I may have experienced problems specifically because I had my battery out. What I suspect is that the battery may be acting like a sponge, absorbing the excess energy. With the battery out, the power feeds back into the adapter and ultimately the power source circuit breaker. If true, this means we are likely putting an overcurrent into our batteries whenever we use one of these 19V adapters. Eventually, the battery could overheat and catch fire (remember the Dell and Sony battery recalls?). My story could have been a fluke, but personally, I would stay away from adapters except one designed for the Shift, or at least one which outputs 12V.
The Kensington N3 tip does work- and while I agree that caution should be taken with charging precious devices, the kensington universal power adapters are designed to charge phones, PDA's MP3 players & laptops. Bearing in mind that PDA's are 5v $ laptops are 19.5V and the Kensington can charge anything in between. . . I've not had problem so far!
bram1 said:
A follow up to my prior post, and cautionary tale:
I recently flew transatlantic on Virgin Atlantic (VS). While VS has in seat power available, due (I think) to UK government regulations there are two restrictions on use:
1) You need to use an adapter supplied by VS (they carry them onboard), not your own.
2) You need to remove the battery, so that you can only power your laptop, not recharge it.
The adapters that VS supplies are rebadged Targus equipment. Here’s the list of available adapters. Based on this thread and some testing of my own at home with my Kensington universal adapters, I felt confident that tip #3 would work. Note, however, that I tested what I had at home with a multimeter, and it registered 19V. Nevertheless, on the plane asked for #3 for my “Fujitsu”. Took out the battery and had no problem powering the Shift. Started to watch my movie.
About 10 minutes later, I noticed that the in seat entertainment screens of all the seats around me went out. I thought it was lucky I had my Shift with some movies stored.
10 minutes after that, the flight attendant came over, very apologetic, to say that a circuit breaker kept blowing for the entertainment system, and indicated an overload fault at my seat. We did some basic troubleshooting, switched the Targus adapter, and confirmed that everything was fine until the Shift was connected (Targus without Shift was OK), at which point they say the warning light. I was very politely asked if I could run on battery for the rest of the flight, which I did.
The incident has me worried though. We all assume that if the Shift doesn’t blow up, all is well. In fact the adapter may be trying to drive too high a voltage through the Shift, leading to feedback. A home electrical system with a 20A breaker may not be sensitive enough to detect this, but an aircraft system might be.
The other thing that concerns me is that I may have experienced problems specifically because I had my battery out. What I suspect is that the battery may be acting like a sponge, absorbing the excess energy. With the battery out, the power feeds back into the adapter and ultimately the power source circuit breaker. If true, this means we are likely putting an overcurrent into our batteries whenever we use one of these 19V adapters. Eventually, the battery could overheat and catch fire (remember the Dell and Sony battery recalls?). My story could have been a fluke, but personally, I would stay away from adapters except one designed for the Shift, or at least one which outputs 12V.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
drummerboy said:
The Kensington N3 tip does work- and while I agree that caution should be taken with charging precious devices, the kensington universal power adapters are designed to charge phones, PDA's MP3 players & laptops. Bearing in mind that PDA's are 5v $ laptops are 19.5V and the Kensington can charge anything in between. . . I've not had problem so far!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't speak for the Shift, but I just fried a Touch HD using my Kensington power adapter
A quick search of the Kensington website returned the following FAQ:
Question: Are there some USB devices which the USB Mobile Device Charger won't charge?
Answer: Yes. Some devices, such as a PS3 controller or an HTC phone, have a proprietary chip which only allow the device to charge from certain USB ports (like a laptop or USB hub) or with the manufacturer's original charger.
dazbert said:
I have an iGo charger I've used for about 4 years and I have a tip that fits and it charges just fine - I would suspect that the Kensington and Targus ones would work the same way. They are supposed to figure out the power load and deliver it in the right way . . . .
BTW it connects to laptop connector, not the cellphone one.
The Targus/Kensington/iGo tips are interchangeable between vendors (personal experience) so you should be fine. If it fits,it'll work
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What igo power supply use use for your htc shift and the tip for it?
Thank you
Seems to be a perfect fit for the ASUS 40 pin connector.
Now we have to decide WHAT to make. I was thinking about a few items, but your suggestions needed.
Wheeeeeeee....
Note: There may be other places to get it, but this is the first place I found it.
Mouser Part #: 571-2129276-1
Manufacturer Part #:
2129276-1
Manufacturer:
TE Connectivity
Description: I/O Connectors 40P CABLE MNT PLUG CHAMP DOCKING
Stock: 1,070 Can Ship Immediately
Pricing (USD)
1: $3.49
10: $3.14
25: $2.85
100: $2.71
PS: These are very small connection points, so you need to have special soldering equipment (sub-mm tips).
Well, maybe start with USB Host?
My suggestions:
- USB-Hub like Soundsurfer said
- Infrared adapter to control your home cinema (i saw that the new sony tablet s has it built in. maye we can port the software?)
- DVB-t
greetings
SoundSurfer said:
Well, maybe start with USB Host?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great idea. I like it a lot.
I ordered a couple of these ACT4060 items:
ACT4060A SOP-8 ACT4060 Wide Input 2A Step Down
The idea is to take 15V from the tablet or charger and step down to 5V to power a USB hub, similar the the ASUS USB host device (same part).
I also thought to add a 5.5mm female barrel socket for charging with a 15V power supply, like these: Power Supply DC 15V
Note: Many other power supply are available from 12V-15V with 5.5mm barrel plug.
---------- Post added at 03:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:22 PM ----------
w04g005 said:
My suggestions:
- USB-Hub like Soundsurfer said
- Infrared adapter to control your home cinema (i saw that the new sony tablet s has it built in. maye we can port the software?)
- DVB-t
greetings
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great, thanks!
I do not think the HDMI output is on the 40 pin cable, but I could be wrong. There is audio available, because it is on the TF101 Desktop Stand.
Any links to an infrared control?
Bob Smith42 said:
Any links to an infrared control?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry,
i have no link for infrared control. I only have seen the video with infrared remote from the tablet s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tbYzckPXJ2Q&feature=player_embedded
But we can try to combine a standard usb infrared adapter with the 40-pin connector. Maybe it doesn't work because of the lack of drivers (if they couldn't get extracted from the sony tablet). But i have to say that i'm neither a electronic technician nor a programmer. Only wanted to suggest my wishes ;-)
Maybe this can help:
http://www.irdroid.com/
greetings
Can you make a regular USB cable with this connector ?
question: do you have the pin out of the 40-pin connector?
w04g005 said:
- Infrared adapter to control your home cinema (i saw that the new sony tablet s has it built in. maye we can port the software?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This would be a great idea - this sort of feature makes the Sony offering stand out in an otherwise fairly homogenous tablet market. Don't know anything about how to do this though, but will post back if I manage to find out anything useful...
fisha21 said:
This would be a great idea - this sort of feature makes the Sony offering stand out in an otherwise fairly homogenous tablet market. Don't know anything about how to do this though, but will post back if I manage to find out anything useful...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, i assume 2 or 3 pins on the 40-pin connector are for audio signals because the dock has an audio out! we could connect some irda leds to the pins like shown in this project:
www.irdroid.com
But i have to say that i read today about a new logitech product called: logitech harmony link
www.logitech.com/en-us/remotes/universal-remotes/devices/harmony-link
i think i will buy these to replace my harmony one.
greetings
Matthias
how about a mini usb cord? So I could plug my DSLR camera into it and download the pictures on the fly?..or even a micro to plug the phone in...but if it was a USB hub, it would work as well..just a longer cord.
w04g005 said:
Ok, i assume 2 or 3 pins on the 40-pin connector are for audio signals because the dock has an audio out! we could connect some irda leds to the pins like shown in this project:
www.irdroid.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Quick look on Google shows up this serial IR transceiver made by IguanaWorks. I'm afraid my electronics knowledge is very limited, but could the serial connector be replaced by these Asus-compatible adapters. I suspect the main problem might be the way the transceiver draws charge from the serial port to charge up the capacitor? According to the website, it uses LIRC so either the Irdroid or Androlirc apps might work (Androlirc requires an audio-IR device, so may need some tweaking, but is apparently open-source).
The other option might be the Newkinetix Re - whether it would be possible to replace the iThing connector with the ones you have located. Of course, the app is only for iOS, so yet another stumbling block.
I'm only feeding back the results of my digging, lack any of the required skills to make any of this work, so forgive if it all misses the mark completely.
w04g005 said:
But i have to say that i read today about a new logitech product called: logitech harmony link
www.logitech.com/en-us/remotes/universal-remotes/devices/harmony-link
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course, this does also look pretty good, if you don't mind the IR extender "spiders" ... and the fact that the TV guide feature is only available for iPad (grr!)
I thought this thread would be more popular. If the plug didn't cost so much to ship to my country I'd be building a wall charger with a long lead and a car charger.
Sent from my u8800 using XDA App
That's a nice find! Now if only we knew some technical details about the connector pin-out.. I guess a good start would be looking at what both docks have inside and the connector routings, I doubt they use any external electronics, so should be quite easy to do cool things.
EDIT: at least now we'll be able to do another cable.. buy a standard USB 3.0, cut one end out and solder the new connector. A bit of cleaning everything up and ready to go.
PatrickVogeli said:
That's a nice find! Now if only we knew some technical details about the connector pin-out.. I guess a good start would be looking at what both docks have inside and the connector routings, I doubt they use any external electronics, so should be quite easy to do cool things.
EDIT: at least now we'll be able to do another cable.. buy a standard USB 3.0, cut one end out and solder the new connector. A bit of cleaning everything up and ready to go.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I finally got my USB Host Kit for the TF, so I can work on the connector pin out. The USB Kit did not work (for me) on the dock 40 pin socket, so apparently there are differences between the Dock and Tablet 40 pin sockets.
Can anyone can confirm the USB Kit does/does not work on the dock 40 pin socket?
Thanks
fisha21 said:
Quick look on Google shows up this serial IR transceiver made by IguanaWorks. I'm afraid my electronics knowledge is very limited, but could the serial connector be replaced by these Asus-compatible adapters. I suspect the main problem might be the way the transceiver draws charge from the serial port to charge up the capacitor? According to the website, it uses LIRC so either the Irdroid or Androlirc apps might work (Androlirc requires an audio-IR device, so may need some tweaking, but is apparently open-source).
The other option might be the Newkinetix Re - whether it would be possible to replace the iThing connector with the ones you have located. Of course, the app is only for iOS, so yet another stumbling block.
I'm only feeding back the results of my digging, lack any of the required skills to make any of this work, so forgive if it all misses the mark completely.
Of course, this does also look pretty good, if you don't mind the IR extender "spiders" ... and the fact that the TV guide feature is only available for iPad (grr!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems many people like infra-red controls. Here is some pics of the I-Got-Control device for the iPod/iPad/iPhone.
There seems to be only a few lines connected to the Apple 30 pin connector. Does anyone have the pin-out for Apple 30 pin connectors?
I think this might be easily attached to the Asus USB Host or SD adapter.
Thanks!
a backpack style add-on for the TF would be neat...something that adds a battery/usb/etc at the cost of making it a bit fatter and maybe taller..
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using xda premium
Any updates on this?
Amazed at how hard it is to find a 30-pin connector pinout, seems Apple tweaked it a bit as new generations came along.
This is the kind of thread I love to see, on Android+TF!
Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk
If I were to solder every connector point through a wire, would connecting the dock from the side through the 40 pin connector to the bottom slot of the TF give the same communication as if the TF is docked? Been wanting to "dock" the tablet without actually having them together.
Yeah, it would work, but instead of soldering better find connectors and a cable. I'm thinking of doing it to my USB adaptor (which is very badly done, completely loose).
Bob Smith42 said:
Does anyone have the pin-out for Apple 30 pin connectors?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Isn't that available all over the net?
pinouts.ru /PortableDevices/ipod_pinout.shtml
Cheers!
-M
Xda member since 2007
As a regular trackball user on desktops, I've been looking for a Bluetooth one to go with the Tablet S to give me a bit more precision for tasks like text editing. Unfortunately apart from one very hard to source and expensive Mac targeted device my search has been fruitless.
I finally bit the bullet and ordered a mouse and would just like to recommend Dell's mini 5 button Bluetooth travel mouse.
It's length is just under half the screen height of the Tablet and is black/silver, so slightly smaller than a regular mouse and matches the tablet well. Using 2 AA batteries it paired straight away and only requires about an inch of movement for the pointer to traverse the whole screen. It also wakes the tablet up on movement. Scroll wheel works but the browser back & forward and right mouse button don't. If anyone has any tips for an app that would allow for these buttons that would be great but otherwise picked up for less than £20 I'm a happy bunny.
Cool. The ones I have used require a USB plug in.
dtaylorr said:
Cool. The ones I have used require a USB plug in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tthere are others without usb recievers but i read on another forum if u use it u cant use sony's bluetooth keyboard simultaneously is that true?
cuts103 said:
Tthere are others without usb recievers but i read on another forum if u use it u cant use sony's bluetooth keyboard simultaneously is that true?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure I'm afraid, the on screen keyboard is good enough for my young slender fingers.
If it's a multiple bluetooth device issue I'll try it out with my PS3 controller tonight and see if both work together.
Here's the mouse anyway.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dell-Blueto...8DRC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1329987831&sr=8-1
Well there's no problems talking to 2 bluetooth devices at the same time. But can't vouch for a keyboard I'm afraid.
I have several Q1Us from when UMPCs were being produced and one of the accessories that i still get use from is the very slim usb keyboard that was meant to go into the portfolio case for these units.
I decided to try plugging it into the USB OTG adapter and found it works great! I especially like that when i have to resort to a physical keyboard, the trackpoint makes it so i can control the cursor without lifting my hands from the keys like i would need to control a mouse or touch the screen.
I have not been able to find a wireless keyboard skinnier than this thing with the added bonus of a built-in pointer. The model number is Samsung AA-SK0TKBD/US.
Any ideas on where to buy one of these?
PointZeroOne said:
Any ideas on where to buy one of these?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Best bet will be eBay
yeah, i looked around and all the sources that sold them before say unavailable w/ no mention of stock replenishment (no surprise since it's so old now). Acid123 is right that you'll see them pop up on eBay every once in a while. When i stopped using my Q1U as much I'd still carry that keyboard around because it's so damn useful and slim.
Somebody would make some money if they just made a slim keyboard that had the same format w/ the pointing nub in the middle (i don't care if usb/bt). Would be nice if there was also the Android specific softkeys built-in like back/home/menu/search.
This one is worth mentioning. Mine has been sleeping for a while in a "PC reparing kit".
The original pouch can be useful -even if you own a larger tab- for many purposes, including travelling, and in a "crossed legs sofa position.
Customizing the original umpc craddle to make it less thick should be easy.
The KB is good but sometimes misses keys typing too fast. Hold a letter and it will display accentuation options depending on your layout.
The mini mouse is ok but can't be used for drawing for ex. Mine tends to change direction if i bend it too much. By reflex I still use the tabs touchscreen depending the situation.
Num/caps lock lits. Fn/volume+,-,mute works. copy/paste is a pleasure ctrl/c, v or x works. Esc key acts as "escape, for ex it can show off the screen KB.
USB connection won't draw battery as bluetooth so you won't bother keeping it conneted all day long on your desk.
Hey we found the same use for these! I also used it to fill in as a super portable kb/mouse combo in my pc repair kit.
Regrettably, I never picked up the portfolio case when I was using the Q1U. I notice you still have your trackpoint! Mine fell off and got lost at some point so i transferred the blue one that's currently on mine from another laptop.
The USB-C is the second part of this device that will break functionality. Hard to believe that such an expensive piece of hardware has such flimsy connectivity options. I'd hoped for something as reliable as XLR for audio, but apparently the entire industry depends on tiny flimsy weak contacts and the USB-C standard connections.
After it breaks down on you, you would have to buy parts and open it up and replace the connector, and perhaps also buy a new cable. Or you're left with wireless charging only, and wireless file-transfers which pretty much suck all the way from Amsterdam to Bangkok.
First part that will break on your Note 9 is the main speaker, by the way. For that even the replacements suck.
I've had a good experience with the C port and cables on my N10+'s. Unlike the micro connectors, the C port has held up well, still tight and working after over 2k of plugins. Even still using the original Samsung cable after almost 3 years. It's been a solid device all way round.
The C port is easier to replace than the battery, and I've gone through one battery already.