I have a car charger for a BT GPS unit. It is Mini-USB and fits into the RhodiumW just fine. I checked the output on the TP2's stock wall charger and it matches the GPS car charger (Output: 5V). Is this safe to use?
Matthew1034 said:
I have a car charger for a BT GPS unit. It is Mini-USB and fits into the RhodiumW just fine. I checked the output on the TP2's stock wall charger and it matches the GPS car charger (Output: 5V). Is this safe to use?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
my guess... yes... plug it in and see if it starts charging. I'm pretty much 100% sure it will I've bought chargers that were meant for GPS units to charge my phones before and never had an issue
You don't say how much current it can supply. If it's not enough, it might not charge (or might charge slowly), but it shouldn't cause any harm to try.
like Rob said. that's how it is.
no harm could be done but some phones have managed charging and can detect how strong charger is used. Could take even 5 hours if current it could provide is below 500mA. Use attached app, that will show you how big current is going to the pda.
note, that charging really starts after about 5-10 mins.
First various test are performed, then you should see real current going into battery. It's not the same current going out from charger, as some is wasted in controller itself and some is used for powering the phone.
if it will show at least 400mA going to batt, it's quite ok for a car charger, though not quite a lot. in theory 1500mAh rhodium batt needs above 2000mAh to be put in. with 400 it's 5 hours. But depends how real the values reported by power controller are.
--
Power Guard
http://www.vandenmuyzenberg.nl/PowerGuard/
go to control tab and hit start monitor
edit: I just run into pinouts of htc, where its claimed that the unused mini-usb pin is for 1A charge sense.
That would mean, if it's grounded (by connector on powerful charger) mobile would sense the charger is the powerful one, providing 1 amp output, and would change into fast charge mode. This is not a standard thing, so I suppose only htc chargers have that and rhodium charger is 1A.
papo said:
like Rob said. that's how it is.
no harm could be done but some phones have managed charging and can detect how strong charger is used. Could take even 5 hours if current it could provide is below 500mA. Use attached app, that will show you how big current is going to the pda.
note, that charging really starts after about 5-10 mins.
First various test are performed, then you should see real current going into battery. It's not the same current going out from charger, as some is wasted in controller itself and some is used for powering the phone.
if it will show at least 400mA going to batt, it's quite ok for a car charger, though not quite a lot. in theory 1500mAh rhodium batt needs above 2000mAh to be put in. with 400 it's 5 hours. But depends how real the values reported by power controller are.
--
Power Guard
http://www.vandenmuyzenberg.nl/PowerGuard/
go to control tab and hit start monitor
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is a well written.. very valuable post. Thanks! I'm not even the TS!
i´ve a car charger with 5V for my Touch Pro2 and it works... so try it out
Related
Alright, so I have a mini USB car charger that is rated at 2.0A (got with GPS) and I just want to make sure the extra amperage is not going to charge my battery too quickly and then kill it in the process. All I have to go on is that my wall charger is capable of only 1.0A and the computer USB is on the level of mA. Does anybody have a car charger or know the maximum amperage possible that these phones can take?
Thanks in advance.
Its to Strong ! I have Crash a PDA with 1.5A
I've used a 2.0a charger but noticed that the battery didn't charge right.
On that note, also noticed that a .5a or 500mA charger after about 6 months killed my battery. (burned out and won't take a full charge anymore)
Recommendation is to stick to 1.0A charging as much as possible as the Wizard's charge circuit is designed at 1.0A charging and monitoring.
DOESN'T MATTER ..if u know the basic Ohms Law..its the max capacity of the charger.(or any source) the current regulating circuits will take care of the real charging current fed to the battery
I charge my phone on my computers USB connection all the time, all computers have a maximum of 500mA USB current.
Amps are pulled from the charger, not pushed to the phone.
Voltages are pushed to the phone, not pulled from the charger.
If the phone draws too much current from the charger, the voltage drops to a point where the maximum power (P (Watt) = U (Voltage) * I (Amps)) of the charger isn't exceeded.
According to the USB specification you need at least 200mA with 500mA recommended +5VDC.
More is never a problem, you could even use a 50A power supply without breaking your phone. Practically spoken: I wouldn't do that.
huh?
I have messed up a few devices before by putting the wrong charger on the device (2.0 amp charger on a droid eris and 1amp charger on the MOTOACTV) Is this a problem with the device's charging circuit? In general it should only pull up what it needs to charge but my devices were messed up?
I returned the first MOTOACTV after it wouldn't leave the boot screen and the second one I got acted funny on 1 amps as well. It charged fine on .75amp charger that came with the device but when I put it on my HTC Dinc charger it shot up from 10% to 20 to 30 etc. all within minutes. Hope I didn't mess this one up too.
Just trying to figure out what the deal is. My phone for sure charges faster when connected to 1amp vs .5amp (computer). This makes sense I understand because the device is able to handle 1amp, but I wonder if it would mess up with a 2amp charger.
Thanks!
The last two posts of 2008 are correct. Your phone is capable of drawing more than 500 mA but less than 1000 mA. If the charger is 1A, 1.5A, 2A, or 50A, it won't make a difference to the phone's charging time or life.
Wrong voltage can be bad, but phones are designed to support USB charging, as a minimum, and 1A to 2A is always safe. As was said in 2008, the charger pushes voltage to the battery, but the battery pulls current from the charger.
That's a really good way of describing it
Pushing and pulling current and voltage is a really good way of describing it.. Given that I am theoretically well within the charging parameters, how comes my phone (Galaxy mini/pop) becomes unusable when its charging (touch screen doesnt touch and screen jumps to new screen without touching?) Am I wrecking my phone?
No, your charger is to blame. Maybe it isn't properly grounded. Phones with capacitive touch screens (not the Wizard! but maybe your phone) can get really weird on some chargers. I have a Nexus One with an aftermarket charger that always makes the touch screen go haywire. When I use an HTC charger, the phone has no problem. As far as I know, the damage isn't permanent, it's just that the sensors get confused. When I disconnect from the charger, turn the phone off, then turn it on, all is well.
My wizards were never bothered by chargers, no matter what kind, as long as they were mini-USB, they were the right voltage. The wizard doesn't take as much current as more modern phones, either.
Hmm. Not properly grounded sounds very plausible. Viva mediterranean circuits. Thanks
Usb chargers will be rated at 5v, which is exactly the correct voltage to charge your device. What you want to make sure is you buy the correct "rated" amperage. Not because it will damage your phone. Amperage only exists as a sum of the power used by the device. You want to find a decent 1amp (1000mA) or higher if you wish, rated usb charger. The the mains charger for your phone is only rated at 1amp, so a 1amp charger is adequate. Avoid 500ma chargers as it will take twice as long to charge and gps / satnav applications will drain the battery even when charging at that rate.
Also if you have a new pc, most of the decent boards will specify 1amp charge even when off if it has on/off charge stated on manufacture details.
Newer phones will charge fine with higher amperage
The myth that charging your device at a faster rate will reduce the life of your device’s battery is false!
If you want quicker charging, look for a wall or car charger that delivers 2100 mA of current at 5 volts higher won't matter.... These lithium ion batteries can handle it... It was just back then if you were to try to put a faster charger in an older battery it (in any cases) just won't charge.
Hey guys,
I was wondering if these USB car chargers are compatible for the TP2?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Dual-2-Ports-US...Accessories?hash=item518f99b7a9#ht_3242wt_958
and
http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-Car-Cigarett...wItemQQptZPDA_Accessories?hash=item3a567814a2
and
http://cgi.ebay.com/Silver-Mini-Uni...Accessories?hash=item414bbc871c#ht_2000wt_958
I'm asking because I remember in the past I used a HTC charger to charge the O2 XDA Flame and it charged. However, the phone started acting VERY weird and freeze a lot. I ended up having to hard reset it
Thanks!
I think any USB charger for electronic gaget that has a output of 5.0 v should work. It does not matter if it is an AC charger or and car lighter charger. I got one of these AC and another car lighter charger. There are all 5.0 v output. I use them to charge Ipod and phones.
chompx2 said:
I think any USB charger for electronic gaget that has a output of 5.0 v should work. It does not matter if it is an AC charger or and car lighter charger. I got one of these AC and another car lighter charger. There are all 5.0 v output. I use them to charge Ipod and phones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you
It's best to choose one that can supply enough current (I think the wall charger supplies 2A, but 1A should be ok). Some devices will still trickle charge with a lower current, but others just won't trigger the charging circuits at all.
I had a cheap car charger that seemed to work ok most of the time, but it got worryingly hot after a while.
My TP2 came with an official HTC charger, so I use that now and it's great.
I have noticed that if the phone is OFF then 1A is not enough and usually stops charging but if the phone is ON it completes the charge..but takes for ever.
Has anyone experienced the charging overheat situation where the led flashes orange and green? I dont know if that is the situation but it only happens when I am charging in the car and the unit gets hot.
My old "OEM HTC" charger I got on ebay (the one with the blue HTC light) just stopped charging my phone after about 10-15 uses.
It lights on (charger), but my phone doesn't catch any charge lol
I got a 1A one, and unfortunately it cannot produce enough juice when running the GPS (copilot), after a while the phone shows a message telling the charge current is not enough.
The wall charger that came with the original box is 1A too, thus the problem might be with the cheap car charger.
Brando sells a 2A car adapter that should do the trick. They're out of stock right now, but it may be worth a look.
Hey!
Mine is a cheapo but does the trick. Charges the phone with satnav running, today went from 23% to full in less than 3 hours. Plus it's really tiny so I can keep my ashtray closed all the time. Using it with mini retractable cable, it all fits in the ashtray and it's handy to use.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Micro-Nano-Ti...daptors_SM?hash=item5638c26773#ht_1747wt_1165
3waygeek said:
Brando sells a 2A car adapter that should do the trick. They're out of stock right now, but it may be worth a look.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The manual states that the output of the AC charger is 5.0 volts and 1 amp. That means the output of the DC/car charger should be the same. Using a 2 amp current might be charging the device faster but it would probably generate more heat and might shorten the battery life.
one tip, regardless of which charger you end up with, is to not leave the phone plugged in while starting the car. my understanding is that there can be be large voltage surges or fluctuations during the startup. depending on the design on the voltage converter inside the charger, some of that may be making it through to the phone.
i once had a AA NiCd battery smart charger that went wonky after using it in the car a lot, but that was with a straight-through 12V car to charger connector.
I made my own charger for using as a GPS on my motorcycles.
There is a charge select line in the plug. If the phone detects that it is connected to a USB port, the phone will not 'pull' more the 500ma. If that line is set to indicate a non USB port, then the phone will pull 1 amp. MAX (I never saw more then 900ma myself).
If you have the wrong charge plug, it may only charge at 500ma. If you have the correct plug and the charger can manage 5 amps, the phone will still only take 1 amp max.
For a while I used the phone in a waterproof box called an Aquabox. It would overheat during charging. I now only charge the phone when it is not in an enclosed hot space.
I'm still using the off-brand 'for Blackberry' car charger I got back when I had my Kaiser. Seems to be working just fine with this phone as well.
Has anyone found a portable Battery pack that we can use on the TF? I have several that I have used for my iPhone and my old iPad2 but all are only 5v. is there one out there that can charge out TF or is the keyboard dock the only way to go for extra Battery?
There are several battery packs used for notebook computers that will work listed on Amazon. Just be sure they have a 12Volt output. EverReady had as battery pack that will also work but you will need an adapter provided by them. The key is that you need an output of 12 to 15 volts to charge the TF or Keyboard. You might read Devcake's post on a DIY charger for the TF as information on the voltages required to charge the TF. There is also a post on external batteries that might help.
hshoem1
By chance do you have a link to the EverReady battery pack? I would like to see it
hshoem1 said:
There are several battery packs used for notebook computers that will work listed on Amazon. Just be sure they have a 12Volt output. EverReady had as battery pack that will also work but you will need an adapter provided by them. The key is that you need an output of 12 to 15 volts to charge the TF or Keyboard. You might read Devcake's post on a DIY charger for the TF as information on the voltages required to charge the TF. There is also a post on external batteries that might help.
hshoem1
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Click to collapse
I have an XP8000 from Energizer, and work perfectly.
w w w.energizerpowerpacks.com/us/products/xp8000/
You will need a conector for Asus (Willy cable WI15) from them. You will have two free tips a year for the life of product
By any chance do you know the tip number?
The cable you note doesn't appear to connect directly to the Transformer.
What setup are you using to connect to the Transformer?
Thanks
steve
The cable it's a Female USB with 16V output. You need the Asus cable.
xp8000
I looked in the web site and it is expensiver than Asus keyboard!
alberteske said:
I looked in the web site and it is expensiver than Asus keyboard!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
May as well get the keyboard then xD. Thats the whole point of it being a transformer anyways
RojoNinja said:
May as well get the keyboard then xD. Thats the whole point of it being a transformer anyways
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Or get both, even better
I just saw this while I'm looking for a battery pack.
On a german page I found this interesting:
w w w.intecro.de/XTPower-MP-16000-Powerbank-mobiler-Akku-mit-16000mAh-fuer-Laptop-Handy-iPhone-iPod-iPad-PDA-MP3-Player-mit-20-Adaptern
(can'f find an english page for this product)
Could I use this one by using an adapter?
I just got an Anker Astro3 10000mAh battery pack. I plan to use it while camping this summer, mainly to charge a phone, but occasionally to charge my tablet.
It is intended to charge 5V USB devices, and has two USB ports. It also has a 12 volt port. The adapters for the 12 volt port, of course, do not work with USB or the Transformer. So I made an adapter, and I am good to go now for charging the tablet.
The battery pack charges from a 12 volt wall charger. I have also made an adapter to charge it from the 12 volts on my motorcycle. So I will be charging it from the motorcycle during the day when riding, then using it to charge my devices in the evening at the camp. I've already tried it a couple of times, and it worked well.
I tried to charge the battery pack using a solar panel, but the solar panel was far too wimpy. It was like trying to run a house air conditioner from a penlight battery. It may make you feel good to try it, but it isn't going to do much.
So far so good. This is very close to what I need.
The issues I have had to work around are:
1) I want to also charge an in helmet bluetooth intercom from the USB port. But the charge current is so low, the battery pack auto powers off, thinking nothing is plugged in. Not a big deal because I can plug in my phone at the same time. That keeps it turned on until everything is charged, then it auto shuts down.
2) When I charge the Asus Tablet, it doesn't appear to auto shut down. Just the opposite of #1, it looks like the load stays high enough to never shut down when charging the tablet. This may not really be true, as I have only tried it a couple of times. Also, it isn't good for much more then one and a half charges of the tablet, as expected.
3) You need to figure out your own harness to get the 12 volts to the tablet.
4) No charge cable for a car. I mean this is rated for an input of like 10 to 15 volts, or some such. This thing is GREAT for charging portable devices. Charging it from a car is as simple as a cable, but there isn't one.
Over all this charger is a winner. At right around $55 US, I recommend it, if you can fabricate a plug for charging the Transformer.
Try a 12V UPS type battery along with a 2A fuse and adapters. It only costs about $20 or so. Plan on using only 50% of its capacity and recharge often to get the most life out of it.
Someone posted this product on another post
http://www.sobuying.com/products/Solar-Charger-For-Notebook,-Ipad,-tablet-pc,-Cell-phone,-MP3,-Laptop-11200mAh.html
May suit your needs
NiHaoMike said:
Try a 12V UPS type battery along with a 2A fuse and adapters. It only costs about $20 or so. Plan on using only 50% of its capacity and recharge often to get the most life out of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For me, this is actually what I use now. But it has issues.
One is simply that it is large. I carry it in the trailer that I tow behind the motorcycle, so it is OK, but a bit too large and heavy. It is a gel cell that has about a 48 WattHr capacity. LiIon has a a lot less and weight. In this case, it has about the same capacity, in a very small light weight package.
The other problem is charging the lead acid battery is an issue. I need to carry a AC charger and find AC when camping. I put a diode/resistor combo in the trailer and tapped off of the taillights. but by the time the weak motorcycle voltage gets to the taillights, add in the diode and other losses, and I'm lucky to see 13 volts at the battery. Not enough to charge it very well. The LiIon pack I use has the supply built in to charge properly from +12.
So I've tossed the lead brick battery (literally) and upgraded to a portable LiIon pack. So far so good.
This is what I use "Portable 12V DC USB 5V Rechargeable Lithium Li-ion Battery Pack for CCTV Camera" search on ebay, you can get one up to 13AH
I got a 3.8AH version for $16 , Dimension: 9.2cm X 6.0cm X 3.0cm
Outout rated 5V (5.8AH) and 12.8V (3.8AH)
small modification because the charger is NON-US wall plug, I just pull the plug pin out and add in a regular power cord cut off from an old appliance
Keep the USB plug for 5V use, cut the 12V DC cable and connect it to a female USB cable (pin 1 and pin 4) , then you can plug in the Asus usb/charge cable directly and charge or power the Asus
...
I'm looking for an external battery charger (preferably solar powered) for taking my Note on backpacking trips. Unfortunately, most of the solar packs that I've found have only .5 - .7 amps available for USB output. If I'm using a 1amp charging cable (with the data leads shorted), will .7 amps kick in the AC charging speed? Is .5 amps enough to charge the phone while I sleep for 7 hours?
I suppose it depends on how long you are out without power but another alternative is an external battery that allows you to charge your phone by plugging it into the external battery.
This one here (at $75 USD) will let you charge the Note from completely dead to a full complete charge 4.4 times.
http://www.amazon.com/New-Trent-IMP...Z64Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1336084828&sr=8-2
So, if you started your backpacking with a full charge on both the phone and the battery pack, and assuming you charge the phone every night at say 20% battery left, you should get 6 days. If you need more than that, you can just buy a second battery pack (personally, Id want to have two just in case).
That's a good suggestion from littlewierdo. I would also have at least 2 spare batteries for the note. I don't think that .5 amps is enough.
Budge said:
I'm looking for an external battery charger (preferably solar powered) for taking my Note on backpacking trips. Unfortunately, most of the solar packs that I've found have only .5 - .7 amps available for USB output. If I'm using a 1amp charging cable (with the data leads shorted), will .7 amps kick in the AC charging speed? Is .5 amps enough to charge the phone while I sleep for 7 hours?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Budge I had an HTC evo 4g and got a 5400mah battery. This worked ok. However the output is .5a which will not charge the note if you are using maps with gps or bluetooth or playing tunes. It wil charge when not using those. Say at night when you are asleep. I think you would have to find a battery with output better than 1a to actually charge when you are actively using your phone. I am not sure of the actual output you would need. I will research it though for my own needs. I do use my note on my motorcyle with a charger which outputs .5a and this is nowhere near what is needed to use google maps and bluetooth and play tunes.
I am actively looking for a solution which will charge my note while using google maps, bluetooth, and playing tunes etc. I may have found a solution with a usb y cable which is connected a 2a source and a .5a source on my motorcycle.
The only solution for backpacking may be to charge when not using the note. I am fairly sure it will charge at .5a when sleeping.
Good luck.
kimtyson said:
That's a good suggestion from littlewierdo. I would also have at least 2 spare batteries for the note. I don't think that .5 amps is enough.
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Click to collapse
imesg said:
I am actively looking for a solution which will charge my note while using google maps, bluetooth, and playing tunes etc. I may have found a solution with a usb y cable which is connected a 2a source and a .5a source on my motorcycle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im not sure where you got the .5 amps from, it outputs 1 amp, so it will charge the Note with the screen on. However, it wont charge quite as fast as the wall charger will it will actually charge the phone.
It should be able to handle keeping the screen on, bluetooth doesnt use much power at all so playing music shouldnt be an issue and gps uses very little battery as well. I dont see an issue with it.
Admittedly, I dont have one of these, dont really have much of a use for one at the moment but I cant possibly see any issues with this.
HOWEVER, there are alternative external battery packs that are MUCH cheaper with less mah capacity (meaning, in simple speak, you would get less power storage meaning that you wouldnt be able to charge your phone as many times as you might like). There are other USB battery packs that might also have less power output (or more) which might mean that you wouldnt be able to keep the screen on AND charge the phone.
Truth be told, I only looked for the highest capacity battery pack given what your situation was AND I tend to buy higher end if the price makes sense. In the case of battery packs similar to this design (external usb battery packs), they generally start at $30 and go to about $80 so buying the best possible makes sense. However, if the highest/best possible was $200, Id probably get something cheaper, but since its only ~$80, if I were in your shoes, that would be my choice.
Id probably consider getting two of them (that is, if we are talking about longer than 1 week excursions, if under a week, just get 1) and a decently long usb cable (3-4 ft) but not too long (you dont want to be tripping over the cable but you need it long enough that if you need to, you can charge the phone mid-day while hiking).
You dont need multiple batteries for the Note, the whole point of this external battery pack is to eliminate the need for them.
littlewierdo said:
Im not sure where you got the .5 amps from, it outputs 1 amp, so it will charge the Note with the screen on. However, it wont charge quite as fast as the wall charger will it will actually charge the phone.
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Click to collapse
littlewierdo I was not necessarily speaking of the device you suggested but one I had. I was warning Budge to be careful and not get a device which outputs only .5a. I was suggesting that he find one which will put out 2a if such exists. The device which you suggested will put out 1a. However I don't believe this would be enough for my purposes and maybe no Budge's either. i was not refering to your device or you. Not my intent to get in an argument with you but to help Budge find a suitable solution.
link to imp1000 manual:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...sg=AFQjCNFPt8XfUpeSr8olPnKLYCivrRvqFg&cad=rja
Couldn't make the link post as a link. Do a search for 'imp1000 manual'.
Ciao
Littlewierdo- I didn't disagree with your suggestion to use another battery pack to charge the existing battery. In fact, I have one and use that option myself. I was adding that it may be a good idea to have a spare. I was responding to the OP who mentioned .5 amps. I assume that's where imesg was coming from, too.
When ever I drive, I have my phone hooked up to my Escort Red Line radar detector and my car's stereo via bluetooth (both). In order for me to use the radar detector effective, I need to have GPS and Blueooth enabled. This is a HUGE SUPER OMG battery drainer for my amaze. 20 minutes drive kills about 35% of the phone's power. My radar detector offers a slot to charge my phone BUT it still drains, not enough juice flowing in. Someone said it is because it's probably a .5amp.
So I am running a extension from the 12v lighter that's in the trunk to the front of my car. Amazon has a generic 2.1amp for 3 bucks.
http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Heavy...121&sr=8-1&keywords=htc+amaze+car+charger+amp
But on ebay, I found the original HTC car charger for 15 bucks which is a 1amp.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HTC-Amaze-4...918506?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item27c867022a
What do you guys recommend? My logic says go for the 2.1amp, the phone will draw as much as it needs from it.
The 1amp.
Anything higher you'll damage the phone or the battery.
A wall plug power supply or a usb supply is 5.0v/1amp.
The 2.1 amp is probably 1 amp per port. Although it does not seem to specify.
F9zSlavik said:
What do you guys recommend? My logic says go for the 2.1amp, the phone will draw as much as it needs from it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right!:good:
---------- Post added at 09:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:41 AM ----------
soundping said:
The 1amp.
Anything higher you'll damage the phone or the battery.
A wall plug power supply or a usb supply is 5.0v/1amp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That means a higher capacity battery (more current NOT MORE VOLTAGE) will damage the phone?!!!!
Totally wrong!
A higher current will not damage the phone. A higher voltage will do it!
Please do not mix the current with voltage!
Voltage is same 5 Volts (±5%) for these “USB like” applications (1A or 2.1A power supply our case )They use USB socket/connector but usually only pin 1 and 4 (+ and-)
Regular computer USB port can supply max 0.5-0.9 A depending on version.
For battery charging devices the current can go to 5A.
Higher voltage will trip a warning window telling you to disconnect and use official HTC equipment.
The phone monitors input voltage to protect the equipment.
nyc_tdi said:
That means a higher capacity battery (more current NOT MORE VOLTAGE) will damage the phone?!!!!
Totally wrong!
A higher current will not damage the phone. A higher voltage will do it!
Please do not mix the current with voltage!
Voltage is same 5 Volts (±5%) for these “USB like” applications (1A or 2.1A power supply our case )They use USB socket/connector but usually only pin 1 and 4 (+ and-)
Regular computer USB port can supply max 0.5-0.9 A depending on version.
For battery charging devices the current can go to 5A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
and to add to that... unless you take the charger apart and short pins 2 and 3, it will only ever draw 500mA, as it assumes that it is hooked up to a regular powered USB port... I have bought multiple car charger usb adapters, and I have taken all of them apart and soldered the 2nd and 3rd pins together... otherwise charge time = forever, and sometimes it won't even charge if you have wifi or data/gps/bluetooth all going at once...
I recently got an Amaze and am generally happy with it. The biggest problem I have right now is finding the right car charger for it because the car charger I previously used (a 1A monoprice car charger) doesn't give it enough charge. I have been reading through the forums and some has been saying that if the charger is not working properly, it will recognize it as charging via USB rather than AC. In my case, the phone seems to be reading it as charging through AC, but there still doesn't seem to be enough current going through it. The phone will only charge if NOTHING is going on (i.e. screen's off, no GPS, etc.). I've been using CoPilot GPS and it draws the battery like crazy. Anyone has any idea as to which car charger would work properly with the Amaze such that I'll be able to charge (or at least maintain the charge) while using it as a GPS? Do I need to go up to a 2.1A charger?
I would look for a 4-5 star rated 2.1a car charger on Amazon.
Just read through the comments and feedback and you'll find one that's right for you.
I prefer the USB charger base itself and then using the OEM cable that came with the Amaze.
It seems to charge faster with that cable, at least to me anyway.
Remember though if it's rated 2.1a but has two USB slots that 2.1a will be cut in half if used to charge two different devices.
Hope this helps.
I couldve sworn we talked about this months ago. Let me see if I can find the thread.
nguyendqh said:
I would look for a 4-5 star rated 2.1a car charger on Amazon.
Just read through the comments and feedback and you'll find one that's right for you.
I prefer the USB charger base itself and then using the OEM cable that came with the Amaze.
It seems to charge faster with that cable, at least to me anyway.
Remember though if it's rated 2.1a but has two USB slots that 2.1a will be cut in half if used to charge two different devices.
Hope this helps.
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you won't get the full 2.1a unless you usee a charge only cable or modify the charger as I stated above...
I ended up getting a 2.1A car charger and a USB charge only cable, and it's working perfectly. When I have the screen on full brightness and doing navigation with Co-Pilot GPS, my phone's no longer losing charge and is actually charging. The combo also works with my tablet as well.
blast0id said:
and to add to that... unless you take the charger apart and short pins 2 and 3, it will only ever draw 500mA, as it assumes that it is hooked up to a regular powered USB port... I have bought multiple car charger usb adapters, and I have taken all of them apart and soldered the 2nd and 3rd pins together... otherwise charge time = forever, and sometimes it won't even charge if you have wifi or data/gps/bluetooth all going at once...
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This is damn helpful! So THAT is why when driving and using gps or whatnot I would always lose more battery even on charger.. So basically I can just solder the middle 2 pins together to trick it into thinking it is being powered like a home charger? No chance it will hurt anything I assume?
Silentbtdeadly said:
This is damn helpful! So THAT is why when driving and using gps or whatnot I would always lose more battery even on charger.. So basically I can just solder the middle 2 pins together to trick it into thinking it is being powered like a home charger? No chance it will hurt anything I assume?
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I have done this to every single one of my USB car chargers... not a single issue...