my baclstone started acting funny with screen alignment getting messed up a we times by itself and than it completely stopped responding...
even the touch sensitive hardware buttons donot work no more...i have hard reset many times did task 29. i have changed different roms and went back to stock rom but screen doesnt respond at all... not even the backlight turn on to full brightness when screen is tapped?
anyone have any idea whats broken lcd or digitizer or both... or maybe something else.... and there is no official htc repair shop so i probably gotta fix it on my own
Probably digitizer is broken, if you see no cracks on lcd(blurry, black areas) then replace only digitizer.
retsam88 said:
Probably digitizer is broken, if you see no cracks on lcd(blurry, black areas) then replace only digitizer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes no cracks or blurry or black areas.... just tht screen is not responding to touch at all....
and i have to send it for repair and wait 2 weeks for it... thanks alot
I've got exactly the same problem, can you let me know how you get on please. Where can you buy a digitizer from, are they easy to fix?!?
You might want to know... if you are trying to just replace the digitizer you will most probably damage the LCD. I just opened mine today, the digitizer is glued to the LCD, it is hard (or impossible) to split them apart because the LCD is made of multiple layers that can break apart very easy (then is done).
Even if you can take them apart you need to glue the new digitizer to the LCD and then again the digitizer to the case, most probably your new digitizer will come with no adhesive
// I should have bought digitizer+LCD from the start.
I faced a similar situation last month. The screen calibration was a problem and later.. performed a hard reset. It actually starting working fine, but only for a couple of days. I was not able to allign the screen after reset. I enquired with the HTC US customer care.. they offered to repair the digittizer for about $335( very expensive!! i know). Later, on a trip to India, I got it fixed in bangalore for Rs.7089/-( digitizer+LCD cost) + Rs.411/-(service charges). The service advisor told me that even though the LCD is fine, they could not peel the digitizer as its a complex layered stuff. So, eventually had to replace both. Its back to normal now. Cheers!!
adrianTNT said:
You might want to know... if you are trying to just replace the digitizer you will most probably damage the LCD. I just opened mine today, the digitizer is glued to the LCD, it is hard (or impossible) to split them apart because the LCD is made of multiple layers that can break apart very easy (then is done).
Even if you can take them apart you need to glue the new digitizer to the LCD and then again the digitizer to the case, most probably your new digitizer will come with no adhesive
// I should have bought digitizer+LCD from the start.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, you need to glue just the digitizer to the case. I changed mine yesterday, just digitizer, and without damaging the LCD, so it is possible :] My old digitizer was cracked though, but I would say it was even harder because of that.
What I was going to say is, that fortunately I was able to reuse the double sided tape which glues digitizer to the housing. But after few such repairs it probably won't be possible. So buying the LCD + digitizer combo will be necessary eventually :/
When I replaced mine, after I seen how it is inside I decided to buy digitizer+LCD in one pack. It was 60 GBP on eBay and looks like the original.
The only problem was the glue, I used 3M double sided tape 2mm which needed to be cut in most areas but screen is not held properly this way. I might have to open it again, otherwise is all good, image quality and all.
Maybe best solution is to first try to take apart digitizer from lcd and THEN decide what to order, if it goes well get only digitizer, otherwise if you damaged the LCD get both of them sealed, getting both has another advantage, they are already sealed and there is no chance to have dust on your screen.
How did you use the tape?
Related
Hello Guys,
i have a problem, i had already replaced the LCD-Screen because the old was broken.
But now i got a new problem... if i place the new screen on the digitalizer i got a glimer on the display. I don't now why. But i already discoverd that this effect only appearce if the LCD-Screen is on the digitalizer..
So what is the exactly reason and how can i fix this problem? Is the digitalizer cracked?
Here are 3 Pictures, one is without the digitalizer.
Thank You,
PS: Sorry for my bad english
did you try to fit digitizer in or just holding it upon the lcd?
what would happen if you rotate it 90degs?
are you sure there is no protection foil still on the lcd???
-
behind and on the lcd, there are reflection foils, bluring, light redirecting, polarizating. maybe 6 of them together. some are glued on screen, some are just below it. obviously there is something in digitizer as well, and those in your replaced lcd are not compatible with digitizer.
can you ask for return of the lcd and get another one?
the other option would be getting replacement of digitizer from the same shop.
or third, this effect doesn't look like it's from polarizator. polarizator is glued but those others are not. if it will not change if you rotate it, like with polarizator effect, means it's not polarizator and you can replace those other foils from below lcd. putting ones from your broken screen to the new one. It's quite difficult, but could be done.
okay.. if i rotate the digitalizer the effect changes..
in nearly 90 degree the effect is better than normal.. but not really good..
so is there a magnetism issue??
or whats the reason for this effect?..
could the digitalizer broken? but it's still working..
the display brokes because of violence..
could the digitalizer although broken??
no the digitizer is fine.
the replacement you get was not oem. means was not from the same factory.
someone working in there made some pictures or paintings of the lcd and showed it to his friend who owns a similar factory. He then made this lcd and sold it to you. As he didn't know what sort of, let's call them optic foils, have been used in the original he just put the ones he new were working fine with another mobile. But he didn't expect, as i am surprised too, that the digitizer have an optic foil inside as well. But before realizing, I suppose they already gave bonus to all those little workers and started overnight secret manufacture.
Before realizing the mistake, they already produced a lot of it. To cut the loses, I suppose they created a set of digitizers with a similar practice, which they would sell together with lcd and would be working good.
Now someone, your seller probably thought selling separate lcd would be ok too, so he did. That's why i was suggesting you have right to have an replacement, refund or an new digitizer from him at a fair price.
Of course don't take me too serious on the picture/painting matter, but otherwise I wouldn't be surprised if I came to true quite close
anyway those fake parts are a good quality and in most cases you wouldn't say difference. But shyt happens
as the rotating didn't solve issue completely problem would be those foils below lcd. if your seller would not be cooperative, you've got nothing to loose. open both lcds and change foils over.
Or get a fake digitizer which you would be sure is compatible with that screen.
If not successful, get a combo, lcd + digitizer.
hmm okay..
in the description is written original htc ware..
i had send my seller that problem and now we will see..
thanks a lot for those information..
I would be very interested in knowing how you got the digitizer and screen seperated? Arent they glued and most likely going to break easy?
did you mean the digitalizer and the lcd display or the front screen?
I opened one up once and the LCD appeared to be glued on to the back of the front screen (which I assume is the digitizer?)
ah okay.. eeerm.. i don't know that the lcd was glued on the digitalizer.. because my display has broken and the liquid was out of the display.. so the LCD was easy to take off..
But I've read some guys has warmed it firstly with a hair dryer and then they could take the display off..
hx4700 Killer said:
I opened one up once and the LCD appeared to be glued on to the back of the front screen (which I assume is the digitizer?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you make me want to open ma rhodium.
if it's glued use a razor, or heat gun & blade like on apples.
then clean it and put new tape.
fake3 said:
ah okay.. eeerm.. i don't know that the lcd was glued on the digitalizer.. because my display has broken and the liquid was out of the display.. so the LCD was easy to take off..
But I've read some guys has warmed it firstly with a hair dryer and then they could take the display off..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah dryer is maybe more safe just keep it below 100 cels. but it's not so vulnerable on bending too.
fake3: you sure you don't have protector foil on that lcd you bought?
i been playing around and get similar efect with a protection foil below polaroid.
there was still one protection foil on the front of the lcd.. but i already removed this foil..
but can you make a picture where the foil the polaroid is??
fake3 said:
there was still one protection foil on the front of the lcd.. but i already removed this foil..
but can you make a picture where the foil the polaroid is??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was playing with just a generic foils. not rhodium.
They can put filters inside plastic nowadays. and mix even more of them and it's all still tiny.
If there is one in digitizer, it would cut sun reflections of lcd and would make good sense.
Glass could be tented, too. digitizer is usually one glass and one foil.
even if you would find something glued on lcd or digitizer, it's not possible to take it of without damage. I talked to people producing foils and applying them they can't take that off too.
There have you be one polarizer glued on front of lcd, otherwise you would see nothing. And they usually gluing one on back. That make the light more efficient. redirect light in useful directions, but is not necessary, that is another possible difference in your case. And probable, because it spares $ and space. But it's glued - no help there if that's the case.
but then there are all those which are dispersing light evenly, those you can try to change. They all have to be used in a set working together they create
something called Brewster condition, if that's not met, you see something like you see on your screen. every active foil is a part of it, and obviously there is something in your digitizer.
Just had another though, there is a small chance that htc decided to change factory or producing process themselves. and both are original. But I wouldn't say that's very probable.
So guys,
i solved the problem..
I bought an new Digitalizer from the same seller and now it works fine..
Thanks a lot for the hint with the different manufractures..
Greetz
happy to hear that
no worries
guys.. i wan to ask something..
my LCD is glued to my digitizer. since both of it is broken.. i juz throw the whole part away.
but then, i diden really glue my new / replacement LCD to my digitizer.
so i assume they did have some space in between.
although my rhodium works well now, but my digitizer only able to sense fingernail o stylus only. anything a tad bigger than fingernail, it wont pick up. neither my thumb nor my finger.
is this possible due to the space in between the screen made it so? or my digitizer was some lousy quality stuff?
devalian said:
guys.. i wan to ask something..
my LCD is glued to my digitizer. since both of it is broken.. i juz throw the whole part away.
but then, i diden really glue my new / replacement LCD to my digitizer.
so i assume they did have some space in between.
although my rhodium works well now, but my digitizer only able to sense fingernail o stylus only. anything a tad bigger than fingernail, it wont pick up. neither my thumb nor my finger.
is this possible due to the space in between the screen made it so? or my digitizer was some lousy quality stuff?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The digitizer is a seperate part from the screen. It sends X - Y coords to the device letting it know where you pressed and the device coorelates that to what was on the screen where you pressed.
What I am saying is that you could have the two pieces seperated the screen in one place on the digitizer in another and you should still be able to press on the digitizer and have the device react appropriately.
The digitizer works independantly from the screen.
haha.. so in short.. it means by digitizer is lousy rite?
I Have de same problem, I need a new lcd screen but i dont know where buy
please help me
and i need the service manual
Thks
My Touch HD, for 9 months now, perfectly works with the screen cracked.
Touch is ok, no problem.
No pixel missing (only the distortion from the cracks thats barely visible from straight look).
I'd like to change it my self but i dont know what to change....!!
touch screen: viewitem.eim.ebay.gr/HTC_Touch_HD__T8282_LCD_Screen_Display__Tools_New/220603358520/item
or
LCD: viewitem.eim.ebay.gr/Tctil_Pantalla_wGlass_Lens_Para_HTC_Touch_HD__T8282/150367803789/item
But it works now, if the risk changing it myself is high, from killing it, is it better to leave it as it is?
P.S. I had changed my screen 1 year ago and I payed 268€ (it cracked in 3 months after htc service)
Thnx in advance
it's probably the lcd since the touchscreen (digitizer) is made out of plastic. I don't think that'll crack very easily
OK i have a similar question...
But first of all can someone please clarify if the OP has the items the other way around? I mean is touchscreen (digitizer) the outer casing with the plastic screen and LCD the inside part?
OK now to my question. I dropped my phone and scratched the outer casing. Everything works fine but i would like to change the touchscreen just for aesthetics. Reading many many many tutorials i noticed most people faced problems trying to replace lcd screen only or touchscreen only and prefer to buy the bundle. My question is if i buy the touchscreen that the OP states here : viewitem.eim.ebay.gr/Tctil_Pantalla_wGlass_Lens_Para_HTC_Touch_HD__T828 2/150367803789/item isn't just a matter of connecting the digitizer to my existing LCD? Are they connected with a conducting adhesive tape as i was reading on the tutorials? Or this is not the part connected with the adhesive?
Thanks a lot for the help and sorry for hijacking the thread.
I've changed only the digitizer in my Blackstone but its really difficult job and took me about half day to finish. The digitizer its glued to LCD and you need to be very careful to separate them. I've done it only because i bought this HD very cheap for parts but next time will probably buy the whole part (LCD+Digitizer).
don't change digitizer
my touch-panel was not working correctly,i bought a digitizer to change it self but the lcd is broken ... impossible don't try.
i recommend you to buy complete set lcd+digitizer , its need only one click on motherboard
be carefully
metbod said:
my touch-panel was not working correctly,i bought a digitizer to change it self but the lcd is broken ... impossible don't try.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's possible, I did it yesterday
So i installed my skinomi screen protector since my other one was scratched and got water under the screen somehow.. Thought it would dry up but it's pretty bad and it's been 24 hours now.. Also there seems to be something wrong and the bottom right of the screen has brighter light coming through in lines. What do i need to replace if i ever choose to get a new screen, a digitizer? I'm not sure what to buy to fix this and any suggestions on where to get a good one. I know the ones on ebay are cheap but i'm afraid they might be bad or something. Any help would be great as this could have been avoided if i didn't use too much solution. Only if i could go back in time....
Try using a blow dryer on low heat near the screen.
I did that, i think i did everything possible. The grey spots probably don't worry me as much because i have a feeling they'll dry out but what's worrying me is the screen seemed to have white lines that are getting bigger and spreading a bit. It's not completely white but it's a lot brighter than other areas. I had to bite the bullet today and use it because of emergency or else i would have let it dry for a few days. I'll take a picture tomorrow afternoon to show what it looks like.
If someone can help i'm planning to open it up and try to clean the screen but if it doesn't get cleaned all the way what would i need to buy to replace it, the LCD screen or a digitizer? I was thinking the LCD because the digitizer is mostly just a glass screen that usually doesn't need replacing unless it's cracked right?
Right, but there's a pretty decent chance you'll crack the digitizer when removing it from the LCD, so you may as well order the complete assembly...should be around $45.
Well i forgot to take a picture today but i'll take one tomorrow of the before and after. I'm receiving my pry and screwdriver set tomorrow and i'll try to clean it before trying to replace this. I'll report how it goes.
uEih said:
Well i forgot to take a picture today but i'll take one tomorrow of the before and after. I'm receiving my pry and screwdriver set tomorrow and i'll try to clean it before trying to replace this. I'll report how it goes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You'll have to be very careful. I was and I still screwed the digitizer trying to clean out some water I had under mine. I ended up having to order a new lcd+digitizer combo.
yareally said:
You'll have to be very careful. I was and I still screwed the digitizer trying to clean out some water I had under mine. I ended up having to order a new lcd+digitizer combo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea i did it and was very careful, it wasn't perfect but i didn't crack it or anything, just a little part on the corner that seemed to peel the adhesive off from the digitizer so it looks a bit ugly there. The LCD is completely clean and i cleaned under the digitizer and turned the phone back on but unfortunately it wasn't water in between the digitizer and LCD, the water seemed to be in the LCD so i just went ahead and ordered a new digitizer + LCD combo so they'll be easier to install as a whole than separate.
Apart from all that the screen seemed to have gotten more grey covered on it. I'm not sure if the grey spots are the water marks or the brighter spots because as time passes there are more grey spots covering the screen. Not like it matters anymore.
Also i bought the digitizer + LCD from ebay from hong kong cause it's the cheapest and i feel as if they're manufactured there anyways so there shouldn't be a problem in quality?
Sucks that it had to end up like this, i've never had problems installing wet protectors but i think i'm staying far away from them now...
Hi,
It seem like there are a lot of people that has TF201s with broken screens, but very little information about how to DIY screen replacement, so I wanted to post my bad experience here as a warning to people, so that they know what they get into.
The screen on my TF201 cracked (dropped on the floor - only the screen was damaged, the LCD and digitizer still worked) so I searched around the web to find ways to replace the screen - without luck
I did find instructions on how to open the device and I also found original glass/digitizer replacement parts on eBay originating from China at about $100 so I took the chance and ordered a new screen. It arrived 2 weeks after and looked good.
With the instructions on how to disassemble the TF201 posted on this forum, it was quickly open and the glass/digitizer/LCD is one subassembly connected to the mainboard with two flex cables - one for the LCD and one for the digitizer.
Next step is to power off the system internally. There is a small internal switch in the lower left corner that you should switch to the off position. The LCD and digitizer cables can now be disconnected from the mainboard. The connectors open easily by putting a nail under the white frame of the correctors and pulling the frame up and then pull out the flex cables. You now have the glass/digitizer/LCD separated from the mainboard.
The LCD has a few screws to hold it to the plastic frame - these should be removed at this step. Mine only has two screws mounted although there is room for more (bad assembly quality or a fix for screen bleeding???)
Now comes the hard part and the part where I failed! There is a plastic frame around the edges of the glass that you need to remove and mount on the new glass. This plastic part holds all the taps that keep the tablet together and it is taped to the glass with some VERY sticky tape!
I used a scalpel to cut between the plastic and the glass with the result that the glass broke in tiny pieces as I went around, but as I saw no other way I kept going... It might have been better to use a heat gun or a hairblower to heat up the glue before trying to remove it, but I was worried that the LCD might be damaged by the heat.
The plastic frame has to be removed first to have access to the foam tape that is used to tape the LCD to the glass/digitizer. Once the plastic frame was off, I again used the knife to gently cut the foam tape (around 1 mm thick) all around the LCD screen so that this can be removed from the glass.
Here I might have made my second mistake. I was worried that I would cut too deep into the foam and hit the LCD screen, but the foam at the bottom of the screen is a little wider than the rest and as I tried to remove the screen I used too much force and might have damaged the LCD - the end result was that also the LCD was damaged in the process. The damage might also have been caused by me pressing too hard on the screen during the removal of the plastic frame (might actually be more likely as the glass was broken across the screen and the damage I was seeing when I turned on the screen was following the same line as the crack).
Well, I got the LCD off the broken screen and though I had been successful even thought it had taken a couple of hours to get there (I could not visually see that the LCD was damaged at this point).
Then on to the assembly with the new screen/digitizer! I had some double sided tape that I used to tape the screen to the plastic, but decided to do a quick test before I fully assembled the unit and this turned out to be a good idea!
I mounted the LCD screen with just the screws and connected the flex cables back into the connectors (these can be a little tricky to get in, so just be patient and keep wiggling them in and close the latches). I enabled the power again and pressed the power button and: DAMM - THE LCD IS BROKE!!!!
After wiggling a little with the LCD cable I was able to get a partial image, but it was evident that I had mishandled the LCD screen during the disassembly and I needed a new screen to get my tablet working again - now I was glad that I did not glue the LCD to the glass, so that I needed both a new LCD and a new glass/digitizer!
Off to the web to search for a replacement LCD screen... Hmm, lots of ebay listings for TF201 replacement LCDs, but none of them looked like the original I had... Then I searched for the partnumber on the LCD I took out (Hannstar HSD101PWW2 rev. 0-A00) and I did find a few items priced around $100.
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS ON THE DIGITIZER WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a way to do a 5 point screen calibration, but this does not seem to be supported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
Have anyone successfully replaced their screen - if so, could you reply with the partnumber listed on the flex cable? Mine is: 3KA12-5SCA01, 18100-10180100.
They did offer to refund the price of the screen if I shipped the screen back to them, but I will most likely damage the screen when trying to remove the plastic frame and it will cost me shipping the part back to China. After a few mails exchanges they offered a $82 refund and I accepted that.
I now have a TF201 with a working touch screen that has the x-axis inverted and no LCD...
Continued...
SUMMARY/LEARNING:
- IF YOUR SCREEN ONLY HAS A SMALL CRACK - LIVE WITH IT OR TRY TO FIX IT WITH AUTO GLASS REPAIR GLUE
- IF YOU REALLY WANT TO GO FOR DIY SCREEN REPLACEMENT, MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET A DIGITIZER THAT WORKS WITH YOUR UNIT!
- WHEN REMOVING THE PLASTIC FRAME FROM THE GLASS BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO DAMAGE THE LCD SCREEN BY PRESSING ON THE BROKEN GLASS AND TRY TO USE A HAIR DRYER TO HEAT UP THE GLUE (NOT TRIED THIS MYSELF)
- WHEN CUTTING THE FOAM TAPE BETWEEN THE LCD AND THE SCREEN BE VERY CAREFULL TO CUT THOUGH ALL THE TAPE BEFORE TRYING TO REMOVE THE LCD
I now have a TF201 with a working touch screen that has the x-axis inverted and no LCD... Unless I get the touch screen issue resolved I most likely will get a TF700 instead of my broken prime - I really loved the prime for the 4 months I had it working...
Happened to me too!
Bought a prime with an already cracked glass with the hope to fix it, as i do with most higrer-end devices (phones in particular)...
I intended to pass it on to my mom as her first tablet. When i bought it, it was fully usable and after two weeks (before the digitizer got delivered) my mom got addicted to it.
Then i got the digitizer in the mail... I cracker the tablet open, unhooked the front assembly and started going at it. First i tried removing the screws in the hope that the lcd would easily seperate from the digitizer. Sadly that wasn't the case so my next action was to try and seperate the lcd and digitizer from the plastic frame... i broke off a piece of black glass that was over the frame and started working my way arround the gap with small but tough shears so that i would brake the glass off from the frame, working my way arround the screen and digitizer, while removing any broken glass from the frame at the same time. Took two hours and the two were seperated. Tried to connect the lcd to the tablet to see if it still worked, and it did. So i was left with what i thought was an easy task of seperating the lcd and digitizer by lifting the adhesive. Top, left and right went rather easily. I added thin plastic mediator-like opening tools arround the edge so that the lcd wouldn't get stuck back to the adhesive (was trying to preserve the adhesive stips for re-installation). When only the bottom one was left still attached i went with the experience/common-sence approach to start prying the lcd away from the digitizer where i thought the adhesive strip would be the same size and would easily give way... That's probably when the lcd couldn't take it and cracked.
Had i used a scalpel all arround- i would have been left with a perfectly working tablet, but all i had was a tablet with a cracked lcd. So i gave up on this not wanting to crack another (costly) lcd and sold it on ebay. That, and because it was a little too big and heavy to use on the train every day going and from work.
So what have i learned from this?
1. For tablets with glue-stripped-on LCD's ALWAYS break the glass arround the frame (with high caution) to seperate the digitizer+LCD from the frame
2. ALWAYS use a scalpel in between the adhesive and digitizer (making shure that when you insert it, you can see it infront of the LCD and behind the digitizer. If needed, angle the scalpel so that it rests on the digitizer and not the LCD. (LCD pannel edges ussually have a strip of metal or plastic arround the edge, so you won't damage them if you use light force on that area, as opposed to the glass itself.)
Hope people who do break their primes get to see these posts before attempting any repairs.
ThomasKJ said:
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS ON THE DIGITIZER WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a way to do a 5 point screen calibration, but this does not seem to be stouchscreenupported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
Have anyone successfully replaced their screen - if so, could you reply with the partnumber listed on the flex cable? Mine is: 3KA12-5SCA01, 18100-10180100.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have exact same problem with the touchscreen. X-AXIS is reverted but not fully, touchscreen works off pressing like a mirror on the left to the right.
I'ts video youtu.be/XUN_0q5I4ng
my touchscreen partnumber is same.
Сould you upload photos of the touchscreen cables differences between what you had originally and those that worked not correctly?
Where did you find the part number for the digitzer? Is it near the tiny QR code, or on it?
I have the same problem x-axis is reverted. Still wonder why? The original broken glass/digitizer was working fine.
Please share if you guys found the solution. I will do it too.
Thank!
Theres a vid about this. i will post it soon. i'm only using my phone. my prime is with my dad in china. i dont know when i'm getting it back in 2 or mor week i guess? surely i'll be noob again when i get it back.
I have the same problem too. Broken digitizer & lcd.. Got a replacement digitizer and the x-axis was inverted, sent it back and got the full refund.
After that i texted a few mails with another seller that knows the problem, he told me there are two versions of digitizers for the tf201. He sent out the (i hope) right one today, I will post the seller if this one works (takes about two weeks to get it..)
OP started this thread in another forum I found via google search where some guy figured out how to fix the x-axis problem by changing something in the source.. however I think he will release a patch after some more testing but he can't test right now because he has no lcd atm. Here's the thread:
bit.ly/OXx6us (hope it's allowed to post this)
same thing
I have exactly the same issue: axis-x is inverted.
I got it, thought it's broken or fake or whatever and sent it back. Bought another one from a different seller. Same problem.
I'm not a programmer, but I feel it can be fixed easy on a software level (just don't know where to look for it)
Here is my video:
digitizer on the way from China
Any one find a solution for this yet?
I have a digitizer on the way from China.
Just a bump to catch someones attention I hope.
I'm waiting to hear from someone if they found a supplier that will send the right screen, or if they know how to compile the kernel to make the screwed up screens work right.
Kind of holding off ordering mine at the moment.
All of a sudden there are a lot of these for sale on Ebay.
And there hasn't been much chatter on defective ones lately.
Makes me wonder if it was just a specific seller that had a bad batch.
Caught a guy trying to sell his TF201 with a broken LCD that he claims broke while replacing the digitizer.
Turns out he is trying to sell his with one of the inverted digitizers and not stating so in the auction.
I ordered a replacement from New Jersy and canceled the one from china I will see what happens when it gets here.
I will definately test it before I tape it down.
If it works let me know. I'm in Canada and would rather pay a bit more for a properly working one than some knockoff that I have to be a programmer to get working.
Any news on your replacement yet?
Nightpath said:
Any news on your replacement yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got my second replacement-digitizer and it's inverted too.. so frustrating!
As there are so many people with this problem I hope some expierienced guy will take a look at the touchscreen-driver and post a little workaround. It is possible to fix this problem by editing the driver but I don't know how it exactly has to be done.
I will share my problem.
My screen broke, however, the LCD and touch still worked.
I ordered a new screen for ASUS authorized service, because using a tablet with a cracked screen is horrible.
I thought it would be posted only the digitizer, but no, the Asus offers LCD screen with digitizer, it is not necessary to work to separate the two parts.
A professional did the replacement.
The problem is that the new set is crazy.
When the tablet is horizontal | === |,
* think that is vertically
| = |
| = |
* and otherwise also.
I think I was unlucky.
* I'm about to order a new set, this time, buy direct from asusparts.eu
Hmmm...where exactly did you order your first digitizer (touchscreen)? And that site you linked sucks, no pictures of any of the items to make sure you're getting the right one.
Received mine yesterday, [email protected]#$** piece of crap!!
It is inverted,it is going back.
First they wanted to give me a discount to keep it, idiots!
Then theyy want to send me another in exchange, they don't seem to understand the problem is they are all going to be the same if they are from the same batch.
Any one found a source for a good one yet?
I am going to try and see if Asus will sell them directly to the end user.
They sell laptop parts, so maybe they will do a digitizer.
I'll post my findings.
Cool. I work long days here in Canada (military, sigh) so I don't get much of a chance to do anything. Let me know as soon as you find out TRJ
Okay, so my Terminator...errr, my son, managed to crack the heck out of his Nabi 2 digitizer screen. The LCD screen is fine and he can still use the Nabi, but I've noticed more and more cracks so I'm sure it's bound to break the LCD.
So, I went on eBay and ordered a piece of glass, but I'm not thinking it's not going to work. It was only like 13 bucks. I had a model number given to me after the fact (at070tn90), and I just looked and I didn't get that one. I'm just hoping it will work.
At any rate, I finally got the Nabi apart, but I've been fearful of removing the connectors for the screen. Can someone PLEASE tell me how to get the screen apart so I can try to replace it when I get the correct glass for it? PLEASE! There are NO Youtube vids for this...tons for the Nexus 7, but nada for Nabi.
Please help...I'm desperate! Thanks so much!!
The likelihood the digitizer isn't cracked is very low.
NABI2 touchscreen layering:
front glass..............thick (glue around outer most edges to frame)
airgap......................very thin (glue around edges)
digitizer glass........thin
lcd............................thick
I tried the same thing but the actual digitizer glass is like 1/10 the thickness of the front panel glass and glued to it on the edges. If the digitizer glass is not cracked, it will probably crack on attempted removal from the front panel. If the digitizer is fully working in-spite of the front glass cracking it may be possible to heat the front assembly up to the point the adhesive allows the glass to just fall out.... but as far as how close the glue melting point is to the melting point of the plastic frame is not something I know. The entire assembly is put together with some super strong double-sided sticky tape. If you can source just the digitizer and glass assembly I'd like to know.
Once one attempts a replacement and it doesn't work is it still possible to get Fuhu/Nabi to replace the screen (at reasonable cost)?
( If not you could just plug in a keyboard/mouse and use the hdmi out... would make a great XBMC server... once the port exists... )
.
Pictures?
oranrene7 said:
Okay, so my Terminator...errr, my son, managed to crack the heck out of his Nabi 2 digitizer screen. The LCD screen is fine and he can still use the Nabi, but I've noticed more and more cracks so I'm sure it's bound to break the LCD.
So, I went on eBay and ordered a piece of glass, but I'm not thinking it's not going to work. It was only like 13 bucks. I had a model number given to me after the fact (at070tn90), and I just looked and I didn't get that one. I'm just hoping it will work.
At any rate, I finally got the Nabi apart, but I've been fearful of removing the connectors for the screen. Can someone PLEASE tell me how to get the screen apart so I can try to replace it when I get the correct glass for it? PLEASE! There are NO Youtube vids for this...tons for the Nexus 7, but nada for Nabi.
Please help...I'm desperate! Thanks so much!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have any pictures of the digitizer and ribbon cable? Also location of the cable and size measurements.
manx_73 said:
Do you have any pictures of the digitizer and ribbon cable? Also location of the cable and size measurements.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I already put it back together because he was taking everyone's iPhones to play games on. lol The glass anatomizer (or whatever it's called), had a long thin strip and the LCD had a thicker one. Either way, the glass nowhere near fit. I had a feeling it was going to be too hard to replace anyway; hence the reason I can't seem to find a tutorial on fixing a Nabi.
And yes, Fuhu will fix it for like 85 bucks plus shipping...I only paid 90 for the tablet just recently (Craigslist). Oh well. I guess we'll just let him play till he cuts his finger.
Thank you both so much for your input. I appreciate it
Help replacing Nabi2 digitizer screen...
Any luck on this?
I have a Nabi 2 on which I've removed the broken digitizer. It was a bit more difficult than I had anticipated. I had to keep the heat gun on the glass and avoid heat-damage to the plastic. I used a small knife between the digitizer and the plastic frame. Next time, I may heat and bend a cheap knife into a Z shape to get under the glass without lifting it too much. I did get it out in some large pieces, but am not sure if I could do it intact if it hadn't been cracked.
Anyhow, the LCD looks great, but I can't seem to find the digitizer anywhere. The ribbon cable has a sticker with the following:
EP0700MLM1
12073*A1G.
272
View attachment 2625405
and on the back side above the chip, is:
40-90121-0
EDT REV.C
View attachment 2625413
on the inside glass is:
85701165
View attachment 2625417
The tiny text in the upper-right corner and written in mirror-image is:
XT2DA5A0118-EP0700 B1
I tried running the text through Google and aliexpress.com / alibaba.com, but to no avail. Anyone else have any luck?
Thanks,
Chip Stewart
ChipStewart said:
Any luck on this?
I have a Nabi 2 on which I've removed the broken digitizer. It was a bit more difficult than I had anticipated. I had to keep the heat gun on the glass and avoid heat-damage to the plastic. I used a small knife between the digitizer and the plastic frame. Next time, I may heat and bend a cheap knife into a Z shape to get under the glass without lifting it too much. I did get it out in some large pieces, but am not sure if I could do it intact if it hadn't been cracked.
Anyhow, the LCD looks great, but I can't seem to find the digitizer anywhere. The ribbon cable has a sticker with the following:
EP0700MLM1
12073*A1G.
272
View attachment 2625405
and on the back side above the chip, is:
40-90121-0
EDT REV.C
View attachment 2625413
on the inside glass is:
85701165
View attachment 2625417
The tiny text in the upper-right corner and written in mirror-image is:
XT2DA5A0118-EP0700 B1
I tried running the text through Google and aliexpress.com / alibaba.com, but to no avail. Anyone else have any luck?
Thanks,
Chip Stewart
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am also looking for the same digitizer model any luck? Anyone?
brianbri6 said:
I am also looking for the same digitizer model any luck? Anyone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am sorry for bringing back an old thread, but has anyone found a source for a proper replacement part for this? I am having a hell of a time finding a replacement part for the digitizer in my nabi2. It's as if nobody makes a replacement for the digitizers with EP0700MLM1 on the ribbon cable. About the only choice I have now is to find a used part, and pray that it also has the same kind of LCD screen within the housing.
--Rex
rex.torres said:
I am sorry for bringing back an old thread, but has anyone found a source for a proper replacement part for this? I am having a hell of a time finding a replacement part for the digitizer in my nabi2. It's as if nobody makes a replacement for the digitizers with EP0700MLM1 on the ribbon cable. About the only choice I have now is to find a used part, and pray that it also has the same kind of LCD screen within the housing.
--Rex
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am looking at a few on Fleabay now. You need to take yours apart and compare model numbers with the ones on Ebay. Just search ebay for Nabi 2 digitizer. about 20 results for it, ranging from $25 -65. The $65 one is a complete front panel minus the LCD. just unscrew the top panel and replace, it looks like.
Wow...I'm the original poster...and here I am years later still bothering with Nabi! lol In 2014, I went on Nabi's site and paid $60 to have the digitizer replaced. I never sent the Nabi in because a friend of mine gave me his kid's Nabi to use for parts (he couldn't get it to charge any longer). I took the entire front panel with LCD and digitizer and replaced it with mine. Worked like a charm...until my younger son stepped on it...on purpose! Lil turd! So, here I am again trying to fix the screen, BUT, this time I noted that I needed the LCD and the digitizer (the ribbon on the LCD was breaking off - not sure how that could have happened). At any rate, I ordered both the digitizer and LCD. I replaced them both and it's a no-go...not working. I still have it apart, but I have the cables plugged in, so when I move the screen around, the Nabi screen will come up, but the touchscreen isn't working. I may be sending the digitizer back, but I'm wondering if it's because of how they are lying on one another. Does anyone know if maybe the touchscreen doesn't work if it's too close or too far from the LCD screen. I don't mean by an obvious amount - I mean is there a "specific" amount of space. I am trying to get it in the casing exactly like it was before, but I don't want to do anything permanent until I know it's working 100%.
Also, you can easily and cheaply get the LCD and digitizer for the Nabi now - just stinks you have to order it from China and it takes forever to get here! I can only imagine how long a return/replacement is going to take. Ugh!
Oh, and Nabi has yet to return my $60 bucks...I have spent way too much on this tablet!
I ended up having to match my part number to a used but good part off of ebay. I had ordered several "new" digitizers and they never worked. There seemed to have been a design change somewhere along the line, or some missing information that made mine not work with the "new" parts available at the time.
However, to answer your question, the digitizer will work completely separated from the LCD as long as the ribbon cable is attached (of course). Rather than reassembling everything, I would only connect the digitizer to see if it worked. When I finally found one that worked, I then committed to doing the full repair.
It was a very painful process.
Is it an easy thing to take apart and put bk together if you have never done this before my daughter stood on her Nabi accident it was under her comfort blankie opps screen cracked but works fine she's only 2 ( well advanced for her age) soI dnt want her to use it incase she cuts her tiny fingers doesn't feel sharp but dnt want to risk it can't find any view on u tube still many years on be nice if someone would do one haha
Honestly...
It was a pain in the ass to remove the glass / digitizer from the nabi. If you're not careful--as I was--it is real easy to deform the plastic bezel that the glass / digitizer and LCD reside in. I ended up having to buy a replacement bezel that already had a digitizer and LCD attached to it. The LCD was DOA, but the one from my original was fine, so I begrudgingly transplanted that too.
Test the digitizer FIRST before committing to installing it on the plastic bezel.