Hello. The other day, I discovered that my HD2 had a loose connection on the micro USB entrance. When the cable was plugged in, the connection was only made when the cable was pushed upside.
So I got it for repair, but yesterday the workshop called and said it was my own fault, so they will only fix it for a prize of 540$. As a prove for saying it's my own fault, they send me this picture: http://app1.appserver.dk:8080/RepairPictures/servlet/getPic?id=51371.
They says that the pins from usb entrance is detached from the chip(motherboard), and that could only happen if I'd misused my HD2.
I declined the price offer for the repair, and they will ship my HD2 back.
My question is; Can I fix it myself? Maybe solder the pins to the chip? Is that possible? And how can I disassemble the HD2? Which tools do I need?
Please help!
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The picture isn't very clear, it's hard to say if it's possible and how easy/hard is it. It should be possible, though, but is probably going to be a tedious task. What you need to do is disassemble the phone to the point you can access the USB connector, just like they did on this pic. Take a look where are those detached traces supposed to connect to. Mind the possibility of it also going under the connector, take a look if there are any damaged via points etc. After you did this, you know what you have to restore, from this point on you should also know if you are up to the task.
InfX said:
The picture isn't very clear, it's hard to say if it's possible and how easy/hard is it. It should be possible, though, but is probably going to be a tedious task. What you need to do is disassemble the phone to the point you can access the USB connector, just like they did on this pic. Take a look where are those detached traces supposed to connect to. Mind the possibility of it also going under the connector, take a look if there are any damaged via points etc. After you did this, you know what you have to restore, from this point on you should also know if you are up to the task.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let's put it up this way: If it was you, would you try fixing it yourself?
Yes. But i do have some hardware related experience
Note that the price of $540 is TOTALLY not worth it, you can probably get a new HD2 for this price.
Have you tried another/new cable ?
britoso said:
Have you tried another/new cable ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, but you can clearly see some broken traces on the pic. If that's really is how it looks like, trying a new cable, or doing anything that applies any mechanical force to that connector, can only do more damage.
i had a very similar problem with my htc universal back in the days, and had a console chipper repair it for me but if you're experienced using a soldering iron, maybe you can fix it yourself.
a "console chipper" should have a lot of experience patching this kind of electronic stuff, indeed
I have just had this happen to me with an O2UK HD2.
Anovo have charged me £280 for the repair, claiming it needs a new pcb.
This isn't missuse, this is poor quality. I have never had this happen before and i am inclined to believe its a fault with poorly secured micro usb connectors.
It looks like i'll have to dig out my soldering iron too, lets hope i don't overheat the pads!!
I have an HD2 with a non working usb problem...I have yet to open it up to verify whether its a mechanical or software related issue...I'm betting looks like your pic on the inside
Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G Slide using XDA App
Throatchopper said:
I have an HD2 with a non working usb problem...I have yet to open it up to verify whether its a mechanical or software related issue...I'm betting looks like your pic on the inside
Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G Slide using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yup same problem here but i have to have the usb cable hanging down from the connector to have it work
i agree ****ty assembly process... and i know i used to solder motherboards and power supplies for work
I have the same problem with the usb connection. Can't connect it to the computer anymore. But my windows button also broke.................bad buildquality to bad.
And probobly no warranty cuase i have ozdroid 2.00 installed and can't flash it back anymore..............
Same problem here,
The connection is only made when the cable is pushed upside.
I thought maybe I just replace the mainboard, but that's not possible because these are not sold.. (Different IMEI etc..)
So I wan't to try to replace the micro USB connector.
The disassembly proces is not the problem, I have already replaced 3 LCM modules.. But I wan't to know how difficult it is to replace the connector.
They are sold on ebay for ~7 euros
Anybody already tried?
its doable
I am a former console chipper, so I know its possible, and pretty easy if the traces are not ripped off the board. just use a LOW wattage iron with a thin tip and thin solder so that it melts quick. also use flux. another thing that can help is to either use a strong double sided tape or epoxy to hold the usb connector in place BEFORE soldering the usb connector to the board to keep the problem from happening again.
mikeyman2171 said:
I am a former console chipper, so I know its possible, and pretty easy if the traces are not ripped off the board. just use a LOW wattage iron with a thin tip and thin solder so that it melts quick. also use flux. another thing that can help is to either use a strong double sided tape or epoxy to hold the usb connector in place BEFORE soldering the usb connector to the board to keep the problem from happening again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i was about to say the same thing, youre spot on there.
depending on the level of damage to solder pads and traces these should be quite repairable on most.
reinforcement with epoxy as suggested by mikeyman is an excellent idea.
anybody in the uk near the midlands with a bust usb port? id love to have a go at one of these as i have plenty of experience with console work, i do 0603 smd leds by hand with ease so sure i could do this.
Just broke mine... I have to lift the cable up for it to charge... Any one near watford who can fix?
mooooooa said:
Hello. The other day, I discovered that my HD2 had a loose connection on the micro USB entrance. When the cable was plugged in, the connection was only made when the cable was pushed upside.
So I got it for repair, but yesterday the workshop called and said it was my own fault, so they will only fix it for a prize of 540$. As a prove for saying it's my own fault, they send me this picture: http://app1.appserver.dk:8080/RepairPictures/servlet/getPic?id=51371.
They says that the pins from usb entrance is detached from the chip(motherboard), and that could only happen if I'd misused my HD2.
I declined the price offer for the repair, and they will ship my HD2 back.
My question is; Can I fix it myself? Maybe solder the pins to the chip? Is that possible? And how can I disassemble the HD2? Which tools do I need?
Please help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=986268&page=2
well maybe I should have taken some picture when I was repairing mine. These comment may not help much. The one showed in the picture will be super hard to fix. First of all, the 3 pads are gone and leaving 2 with a little bit remain. To at least charge the phone you need to rewire the 1st and 5th pin in order to charge. and I think one of the pin is useless but the middle pins are for data. trace the pin and bridge them with copper wire or extreme small wires. the pins are always connected to the caps near the port so try to trace around there. and don't dig the pads its no use. you will only dig the ground or (-) out of it.
Mogkupopppo said:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=986268&page=2
well maybe I should have taken some picture when I was repairing mine. These comment may not help much. The one showed in the picture will be super hard to fix. First of all, the 3 pads are gone and leaving 2 with a little bit remain. To at least charge the phone you need to rewire the 1st and 5th pin in order to charge. and I think one of the pin is useless but the middle pins are for data. trace the pin and bridge them with copper wire or extreme small wires. the pins are always connected to the caps near the port so try to trace around there. and don't dig the pads its no use. you will only dig the ground or (-) out of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My USB port is broken. The connector flexes and I can see that the part of the PCB that was soldered to the USB pins has stayed with the USB and broken away from the main PCB.
I can easily solder "flying leads" for pin 1 (+5V - seems to be a large "test pin" directly below) and pin 5 (GND - will solder to USB shell leg). This should restore charging via USB.
I am just unsure about where the data pins 2 and 3 should be soldered to. Do you know where you soldered them?
Thanks
Darren .)
broken usb port htc hd2
nutmegy said:
Just broke mine... I have to lift the cable up for it to charge... Any one near watford who can fix?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HI,
I have a broken micro usb port on my htc hd2 and wondered if you managed to get yours fixed.I know yours was damaged some time ago but I also live near Watford so wondered if there is a reasonable place that could fix it for me.
Thankyou,
Jeevesta
Mine just broke, as well. All of a sudden, I now have to tilt the cable up to get it to charge, and tethering does NOT work at all anymore. Anyone in the US have this problem? If so, did you get it repaired, and if so, how did you do it? I have no idea about the soldering and other stuff the earlier posts mentioned, and T-Mobile told me I just need to get another phone. Please help!
Sent from my NexusHD2 using xda premium
Related
So I dont have the proper tools to do this but maybe someone else does.
The GPS dongle is the same connector as the keyboard dock, however due to the gps housing it does not physically fit. But with with the right torx screwdriver it seems possible that it may be able to be disassembled and tested to see if it will work if you were to plug it into the keyboard dock.
Any theories out there on if this will work or not?
I plan to get a torx screwdriver tomorrow to test this out unless someone else has already tried?
imadork8317 said:
So I dont have the proper tools to do this but maybe someone else does.
The GPS dongle is the same connector as the keyboard dock, however due to the gps housing it does not physically fit. But with with the right torx screwdriver it seems possible that it may be able to be disassembled and tested to see if it will work if you were to plug it into the keyboard dock.
Any theories out there on if this will work or not?
I plan to get a torx screwdriver tomorrow to test this out unless someone else has already tried?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It might... the only problem I can think of is that the dock connects its USB port to the tablet through this connector and I'm willing to be the GPS in the dongle does the same. I'm not sure what would happen if two devices connected to the USB port on the tablet at the same time...
someone has actually done this already and posted pix. BUT it doesnt work when its plugged into the dock 40 pin port. they are trying to pinpoint the reason as to why. could be possible the dock 40 pin is for power and charging tablet only. it may not have data connections pins in it. the other theory is that the gps dongle software is only pointed at the actual tablet 40 pin connector. so if you attach it to the dock, the prime recognizes. i was thinking maybe developers could modify or add another file path in the programming so dongle would work when plugged in either.
check out my gps dongle test thread. there are pix of it. my op pix exceeded bandwith and not showing up at the moment. but the person who originally posted up the opened dongle is in that thread. also person is in there who posted it wouldn't work on dock so far. Also check out Erusman gps and wifi thread. where he opened up his prime. i know they will be modding the dongle in there also.
demandarin said:
someone has actually done this already and posted pix. BUT it doesnt work when its plugged into the dock 40 pin port. they are trying to pinpoint the reason as to why. could be possible the dock 40 pin is for power and charging tablet only. it may not have data connections pins in it. the other theory is that the gps dongle software is only pointed at the actual tablet 40 pin connector. so if you attach it to the dock, the prime recognizes. i was thinking maybe developers could modify or add another file path in the programming so dongle would work when plugged in either.
check out my gps dongle test thread. there are pix of it. my op pix exceeded bandwith and not showing up at the moment. but the person who originally posted up the opened dongle is in that thread. also person is in there who posted it wouldn't work on dock so far. Also check out Erusman gps and wifi thread. where he opened up his prime. i know they will be modding the dongle in there also.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks demandarin, i will check those out.
I'm also working on this. Its kind of interesting.
demandarin said:
someone has actually done this already and posted pix. BUT it doesnt work when its plugged into the dock 40 pin port. they are trying to pinpoint the reason as to why. could be possible the dock 40 pin is for power and charging tablet only. it may not have data connections pins in it. the other theory is that the gps dongle software is only pointed at the actual tablet 40 pin connector. so if you attach it to the dock, the prime recognizes. i was thinking maybe developers could modify or add another file path in the programming so dongle would work when plugged in either.
check out my gps dongle test thread. there are pix of it. my op pix exceeded bandwith and not showing up at the moment. but the person who originally posted up the opened dongle is in that thread. also person is in there who posted it wouldn't work on dock so far. Also check out Erusman gps and wifi thread. where he opened up his prime. i know they will be modding the dongle in there also.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not true, it must have data connection pins in it. Connect your charger cable to the dock with the prime attached to it and then connect it to your pc. Works the same way as if you were to connect it directly to the prime. That's what I do to transfer new ROMs, pictures and whatnot without the need to disconnect the prime.
Coderedpl said:
Not true, it must have data connection pins in it. Connect your charger cable to the dock with the prime attached to it and then connect it to your pc. Works the same way as if you were to connect it directly to the prime. That's what I do to transfer new ROMs, pictures and whatnot without the need to disconnect the prime.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But power and data isn't going to account for all 40 pins is it? I still think that some pins are arranged differently between the Prime's port and the dock's. All the extra pins are going to be info for the keyboard and USB and everything. I doubt all the pins even make a connection on the dock's port because the dock isn't about to have a dock plugged into it. The dongle probably uses some of the same information pathways that the keyboard requires and doesn't even have in it's female port.
Coderedpl said:
Not true, it must have data connection pins in it. Connect your charger cable to the dock with the prime attached to it and then connect it to your pc. Works the same way as if you were to connect it directly to the prime. That's what I do to transfer new ROMs, pictures and whatnot without the need to disconnect the prime.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
who said it was true? those were all possible reasons as to why it didn't work that was thrown out there by other people. then that eliminates that reason. more than likely a software issue. the software probably only points to prime tablet connector port only. developers would have to take a look at it.
So i tore my GPS apart anyways just for fun, the actually device is fairly small, probably only a quarter of the size of the housing. I assumed they made it large enough so they can add the lock feature to make it more durable rather than small and could easily break. And as everyone else has already confirmed it does not communicate through the keyboard.
Where does the 40-pin connector travel while in the keyboard and what pins does the GPS unit use?
I've never found a pinout for the Transformer's 40 pin connector.
We know there are at least two sets of USB lines - one pair for the external devices (host) and one to make the Prime a peripheral for a PC (client).
TheWerewolf said:
I've never found a pinout for the Transformer's 40 pin connector.
We know there are at least two sets of USB lines - one pair for the external devices (host) and one to make the Prime a peripheral for a PC (client).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Somewhere I could have sworn I have some OG Transformer pinouts. I'll have to look around all my bookmarks, but I don't know if they'd actually be the same.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using XDA Premium HD via my tethered HTC Vision
This one?
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From http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=19566215&postcount=35
No, but now I have that one too
Lol, the one I had was much less detailed http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=14937362
Would you like to see pictures of the gps dongle device itself?
I have also opened up the gps kit. I have several pictures of me measuring the pins with a volt/ohm meter. If you want I could upload them? Please give me a like, and I will
Also please see this picture of the inside of the 40-pin prime-dock-connector.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1114228&stc=1&d=1339111909
I guess that could be helpfull too.
Hey guys,
been a long time lurker, but I've ran into a bit of a snag that I need some help with.
missus broke her charger and used something else to charge the phone and after a bit the phone just went pop and turned off and wont switch back on again.
There is no visible damage to the phone whatsoever.
Is there some sort of mechanism designed to protect the phone from the surge or whatever it was?
I would hate for the main board to be completely knackered :S
I've been reading around and there is a USB board that connects to the rest of the phone? will it be just a case of replacing that or is the phone shafted? :S
Thanks folks.
Depends on what kind of charger she used. I do know that there are some micro-usb chargers/cable whose pin connections are different than the ones that come with the i9100.
If a different battery and a oem charger doesnt turn on the phone at all, your only option may be to send it to samsung for repair.
Thanks for the reply.
She's tried charging it on the PC and it wont work.
not to keen on sending it to samsung as they'll charge an arm and a leg.
What do you guys think? Will the damage be limited to the USB board or will this cost me any more?
Im not at home right now to be able to open it up so will rely on your expert opinions!
Honestly, how would we know without looking at it ? Something is blown which is stopping the phone from powering up, what, is anyone's guess.
Take it to a mobile repair shop if you don't want to send it to Samsung & get a quote.
As above and they might say it needs a new USB board then you can price a USB board up on ebay .
jje
Thanks guys,
In your opinion. Is it likely that the main parts of the phone have been damaged or do you think the damage has been absorbed by the battery and USB board?
Have you sniffed it to see if it stinks of burning.I would open it up and look at the internals.I would only send it for repair as a last resort as mboards are like 180 bucks.
sent by my s2 using xda premium
Ok. You already got an answer, so frankly, you deserve this.
I reckon the phone is totally shot. Not replaceable. Foolishly using an incompatible charger has turned the phone into a $500+ 135 gram hunk of useless plastic. Stuffed, in a word. Time for a new phone.
Now, for the slow kids up the back, you put too many zzzzs into the phone. Something burnt out. I don't know anyone on here who has the ability to view the innards of your phone over distance.
Take it to a phone shop.
I can say it slower if that didn't get through ?
MistahBungle said:
Ok. You already got an answer, so frankly, you deserve this.
I reckon the phone is totally shot. Not replaceable. Foolishly using an incompatible charger has turned the phone into a $500+ 135 gram hunk of useless plastic. Stuffed, in a word. Time for a new phone.
Now, for the slow kids up the back, you put too many zzzzs into the phone. Something burnt out. I don't know anyone on here who has the ability to view the innards of your phone over distance.
Take it to a phone shop.
I can say it slower if that didn't get through ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Theres no need to be arrogant about it.
Not once did I ask for you to use your magic skills to look inside the housing of my wifes phone. At this moment in time, even I do not have this ability.
I asked for your "opinion" as to what the damage could potentially be, google it if you require a definition.
I still thank you for delivering to me your opinion (eventually)
I'm away from home for a few weeks so I can't have a look inside the phone so just trying to get some feelers as to the likelihood of damage byond the USB flex cable.
Thank you very much,
GP
You have to first tell us what the "something else" used for charging is before we can make an educated guess as to what has happened.
whoops sorry about that.
It was a broken charger from an old android phone.
It would sometimes work, and not at other times.
I'm guessing the charger short circuited or something??
Cheers again
Think he means volts,mAs,polarity of the charger
sent by my s2 using xda premium
Right, I did some digging and it turns out I was lying.
it wasn't a broken charger, It was a perfectly healthy charger for a Samsung tocco lite
i checked the spec on it and it seems to be the same as the S2
5v
0.7A
?
yeah that wouldn't damage the phone without anything else being wrong, like the charger being 110V and you being in 220-220V country or something like that
nope :S
nothing like that.
it was used in the same house.
So you're saying there could be an underlying issue?
Broken charger or broken phone. It wasnt the charger's specs that killed it
Connect it to a car in the car battery and start ignition. Now there is "something else" for you
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Hey guys,
I have an update.
I've finally gotten home and managed to pull the sucker apart.
No corrosion on any parts of the phone whatsoever.
However I have noticed something about the actual USB port that is stuck onto the USB flex cable
If I face the socket away from me, there are 7 joints that solder the port onto the usb board. The Joint on the far right, I wouldn't say it looks burnt, but it just looks a little dull compared to the rest, and definately looks slightly different.
This joint has a white arrow pointing towards it printed on the PCB of the actual board.
I tried taking some photos but they're not exactly high res.
Unfortunately I can't determine if the dullness of this joint is significanlty enough to denote damage or whether thats how it should normally look like.
Does anybody know what it should look like?
I tried googling for pictures but there arent any clear ones that show this. :S
Cheers.
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MOD NOTE: Could you edit this post to correctly embed the images? As im a noob here, it wont let me. TIA!
MOD EDIT: Done!!!
MD
Hi all,
Tonight I decided to take the plunge and flash the TF101 to 4.2.2 EOS nightlies from the stock WW ICS 4.0.3. I got there in the end (thanks Team EOS - 4.2.2. on the TF101 makes it feel like a modern day tablet. Super fast and slick. Cant thank you enough!)
Im a linux guy so I checked out the .bat from the PERI 0.4 to see what commands ADB used in order to get a recovery image on there. Looked straightforward enough, so time to hook the transformer up to USB and begin work. I ensured USB debugging was enabled in the TF and hooked up the USB cable. Nothing happened.
So I check /var/log/syslog and see that something is amiss
Code:
Jun 14 21:12:34 xxx kernel: [92004.938223] usb 3-4: new full-speed USB device n
umber 22 using xhci_hcd
Jun 14 21:12:34 xxx kernel: [92004.938346] usb 3-4: Device not responding to se
t address.
Jun 14 21:12:34 xxx kernel: [92005.142138] usb 3-4: Device not responding to se
t address.
Jun 14 21:12:34 xxx kernel: [92005.345807] usb 3-4: device not accepting addres
s 22, error -71
Jun 14 21:12:34 xxx kernel: [92005.345830] hub 3-0:1.0: unable to enumerate USB
device on port 4
Figured this was maybe a compatibility issue, so tried everything from disabling xhci_hdc to wiggling the dank cable. Nothing.
So hooked the transformer up to windows 7 - got the dreaded error almost immediately
One of the USB devices attached to your computer has malfunctioned, and Windows does not recognize it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After some research, all pointers seemed to imply that the USB cable, while fine for charging, was broken. A pity, I had arrange some 'man cave' time with the wife and was really looking forward to getting 4.2.2 on the TF tonight. But im not a man to be beaten, so decided to try to fix the problem myself. After all, how hard can it be - we are talking 4 wires here.
First, I pulled back the plastic housing from the USB connector. It needed a bit of 'persuasion' by hooking a small watchmaking screwdriver beteween the metal and the plastic (on the side with the white USB symbol on) and pulling the metal connector away from the plastic. This was a bit fiddly, and ill admit the plastic housing did crack ever so slightly, but nothing a bit of superglue didnt fix for me So now im left with this;
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At this point, i prised apart the metal crimp to the rear of the connector using some small pliers, then popped out the shield retainers at the side and rear. This allowed me to remove the metal shield.
Then I removed the bit of insulating tape over the data and power contacts
As this point I could see clearly that the white wire was snapped at the solder joint. I used a bit of *gentle* force cowboy: ) to stretch the white wire a bit further and stripped the end. I then tinned the end and used my butane solder iron (though tbh any decent iron will do) to re-attach the joint
Yes its not the prettiest soldering work in the world, and yes i did slip once and slightly melt the plastic sheild, but im likely never going to see it again and there is no metal to metal contact so should be all good.
At this point, I put the insulating tape back in place (v. important for obvious reasons to do with the connector itself being metal) and reversed the dis-assembly process. When putting the crimp back in place I ensured to use suitable force to ensure that no further stress is placed on the data wires. I also stuck a bit of superglue on the cracked plastic housing and slid everything back into place.
And voila - one working USB datacable again.
In my opinion, the build quality of the manufacturer supplied USB wire is flawed. The USB plug side of the wire has poor crimping of the wiring, allowing excessive movement and stress on the internal wires and solder joints on the connector itself. On top of this, the white data wire seems to be looped over the other wires in such a way that it is always taut - never a good combination where bad crimping is not provding adequate stress relief. At some point in the past my wire has probably been rotated 90 degrees (or so) from centre and the joint of the white data wire just gave up. I guess I have one of my kids to thank for that (though in reality, it was probably me being rough whilest removing the USB wire from the wall-wart charger.
Given the many posts about these wires failing, im inclined to think the problem I encountered is very common.
If you experience a similar problem with your wire and simply cant wait to get a new one shipped, it may be worth trying this method out. Your milage may vary and its entirely at your own risk - I accept no liability for any loss and/or damage to your equipment, your self, your hamster, fluffy cat or anything else. :angel:
I hope this posts helps a few people with their Asus 40 pin connectors that work for charging but dont work for data.
You finally gave me the kick in the bottom that I needed to do the same. Been putting this off for the last year, fro me both teh green and teh white wire were lose. So just for information the order of the wire is
Black
Green
White
Red + Orange
good point rosco thanks for the wiring order!
I wish I could see the pics... but I got a 404 error....
I had same problem on 2 cables.
I assumed that when a cable is used to charge there is some damage caused form high temperature of power supplier.
I suggest 2 cables ( few $ on chinese shops) to use 1 for charging, one for data
bye
About a month ago I was browsing a website called "dudeiwantthat.com" that has all sorts of random cool stuff that I've often never heard of (I love that site). And I came across a reversible Micro-USB adapter, I believe the brand then was called McFlip, or something similar. I checked out and it didn't explain much, like whether it supported Quickcharge or anything like that. I was in the middle of something and kinda forgot about it. A couple days ago it popped back into my head and I asked a handful of friends if they've ever seen anything like that and they were all shocked to hear it existed. So I just googled the term to see if there were any others that ARE QuickCharge and found this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Cambond-Reversible-Charging-Braided-Connecting/dp/B00V3FRZPE
braided cable, QuickCharge, reversible Micro-USB adapter. I'll be picking up a few myself. But figured I'd let everybody else know in case some of you think it's as cool as I do. After having an S5 for so long, and what a pain it was just to plug that thing in, finding out there's a cable that i don't even need to worry about being upside down. And the pricing isn't bad for what looks like a durable cable that will be a cinch to use tired, in the dark, whatever. I plan to do a review for it when I get it. But if someone already has one, or gets one before me, please let me know how it is. IMO every micro-USB cable made now should be like this. Seems like common sense to me
I backed the MicFlip on Indegogo, and 1000 years later once I received the product, I was pretty disappointed. It was super finicky, only working if wiggled in my Nexus 6, and won't work in my s7 at all. Obviously other brands will vary, but that left a bad taste in my mouth for them.
52brandon said:
About a month ago I was browsing a website called "dudeiwantthat.com" that has all sorts of random cool stuff that I've often never heard of (I love that site). And I came across a reversible Micro-USB adapter, I believe the brand then was called McFlip, or something similar. I checked out and it didn't explain much, like whether it supported Quickcharge or anything like that. I was in the middle of something and kinda forgot about it. A couple days ago it popped back into my head and I asked a handful of friends if they've ever seen anything like that and they were all shocked to hear it existed. So I just googled the term to see if there were any others that ARE QuickCharge and found this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Cambond-Reversible-Charging-Braided-Connecting/dp/B00V3FRZPE
braided cable, QuickCharge, reversible Micro-USB adapter. I'll be picking up a few myself. But figured I'd let everybody else know in case some of you think it's as cool as I do. After having an S5 for so long, and what a pain it was just to plug that thing in, finding out there's a cable that i don't even need to worry about being upside down. And the pricing isn't bad for what looks like a durable cable that will be a cinch to use tired, in the dark, whatever. I plan to do a review for it when I get it. But if someone already has one, or gets one before me, please let me know how it is. IMO every micro-USB cable made now should be like this. Seems like common sense to me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In the features section of that cable you linked, it days the USB end is reversible, not the micro usb end. So im not sure this cable solves any problems for me.
Sent from my SM-G930W8 using XDA-Developers mobile app
Blitzwolf also make one, I just received it and its fantastic quality
happyantix said:
Blitzwolf also make one, I just received it and its fantastic quality
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Also have this is quick charge capable and it's superbly made.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
chriskwarren said:
In the features section of that cable you linked, it days the USB end is reversible, not the micro usb end. So im not sure this cable solves any problems for me.
Sent from my SM-G930W8 using XDA-Developers mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry about that. I know the McFlip was the micro side, but aparently it was a good concept with **** execution. But it sounds like there are some companies making quality ones with the reversible micro plug. Though it's almost too ironic that they finally come up with something like that just in time for the death of Micro USB. And USB-A as a whole for that matter
happyantix said:
Blitzwolf also make one, I just received it and its fantastic quality
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
awesome. Thanks for that info. I was worried that they might be **** quality like the McFlip apparently is
why is the hyperlink a bizrate? Is that some sort of affiliate?
BelayCords that I backed on Kickstarter for Apple Lightning cables has been great. USB side reversible.
nexy33 said:
Also have this is quick charge capable and it's superbly made.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Quick charge has nothing at all to do with the cable. It's negotiated between the phone and the charger. Any Micro USB cable will work.
52brandon said:
sorry about that. I know the McFlip was the micro side, but aparently it was a good concept with **** execution. But it sounds like there are some companies making quality ones with the reversible micro plug. Though it's almost too ironic that they finally come up with something like that just in time for the death of Micro USB. And USB-A as a whole for that matter
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It isn't possible to have a reversible micro USB plug. The female receptor is shape dependent, unlike the full sized USB connector which is non-shape dependent..
scott14719 said:
It isn't possible to have a reversible micro USB plug. The female receptor is shape dependent, unlike the full sized USB connector which is non-shape dependent..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Impossible yet it still exists... Mind = blown. Right?
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/417V2dN6tXL._SY200_.jpg
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
PiousInquisitor said:
Impossible yet it still exists... Mind = blown. Right?
http://www.amazon.com/MicFlip-Reversible-Micro-Silver-Galaxy/dp/B0127192R6
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not at all. The head rotates. It can still ONLY be inserted in one (and only one) orientation. It's the same thing as turning the cable upside down. You would simply be rotating by the head instead of the cable. If you try to insert the male micro USB head into the female receptor, it still will only work if it is turned the right way.
In contrast, the full sized USB head (in this case) can be inserted either way, without rotation.
The result is still that the micro USB connector side is still not reversible.
scott14719 said:
Not at all. The head rotates. It can still ONLY be inserted in one (and only one) orientation. It's the same thing as turning the cable upside down. You would simply be rotating by the head instead of the cable. If you try to insert the male micro USB head into the female receptor, it still will only work if it is turned the right way.
In contrast, the full sized USB head (in this case) can be inserted either way, without rotation.
The result is still that the micro USB connector side is still not reversible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't read very well. Try it again.
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Tell us again how it can only be inserted one way. It sounds so magical when you say it...
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
---------- Post added at 06:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:31 AM ----------
scott14719 said:
Not at all. The head rotates. It can still ONLY be inserted in one (and only one) orientation. It's the same thing as turning the cable upside down. You would simply be rotating by the head instead of the cable. If you try to insert the male micro USB head into the female receptor, it still will only work if it is turned the right way.
In contrast, the full sized USB head (in this case) can be inserted either way, without rotation.
The result is still that the micro USB connector side is still not reversible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Still only inserted in way eh?
https://www.youtube.com/shared?ci=gGyKJnAM2xo
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
I have three of the McFlip cables. They all work fine. What I'm waiting on is one with a detachable magnetic tip. Hoping my ZNaps gets shipped soon!
I have the blitzwolf cable, and all I can say is WOW. I have had a lot micro usb cables, but never before such an awesome quality. The cable itself is so heavy and full of copper, you can bend it and then it stays that way. WOW.
The connectors, on both ends are reversible and of Mega high quality. not super-high, but mega-high. period
I have two Mi Boxes. Both have lousy WiFi reception. I finally decided to open one up and see if I could re-position the antenna or replace it. To my surprise, there was no antenna. I opened my other Mi Box and it didn't have an antenna either. There is a little plug for the antenna, but the antenna itself is missing.
The antenna plug is the same one found in most laptops and WiFi cards, variously called an IPX, IPEX, or U.FL plug. You can buy antennas with this plug on ebay or Amazon for about $2. They come as little flags you can stick down or little pcb boards which can have 5dbi or more gain.
I got a couple of 8dbi gain pcb antennas. The can be positioned inside the Mi Box case, but I drilled a small hole and ran them outside where they are clear of the electronics and big steel heatsink and can be aimed at the router. No soldering, just open the Mi Box, take out the four screws that hold the motherboard. Slowly pull off the motherboard which is stuck to the heatsink, and then plug in the antenna. Simple.
My WiFi download speed has almost tripled from less than 10mbs to almost 30mbs. I get 20mbs even through my VPN. I now can stream 1080 HD movies on Netflix without stuttering or buffering.
Spend $2 and 15 minutes work and you won't hate your Mi Box anymore.
Make sure the antenna will do 5ghz
I almost forgot, make sure you get an antenna that will work for both 2.4ghz and 5ghz.
Sound intressting ... maybe you upload a photo of the antenna ? wich type ?
Thanks in advance Dr Vega
Greetings Phil from Belgium
Pilsor said:
Sound intressting ... maybe you upload a photo of the antenna ? wich type ?
Thanks in advance Dr Vega
Greetings Phil from Belgium
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Click to collapse
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Thanks for opening this up man!! Trying to make this thing last a bit longer, this will help. We will also have Oreo anyday now as more screen shots are being posted.
Could you show me the way to open the case, does it need heating or something else?
Opening the Mi Box case
hhai93 said:
Could you show me the way to open the case, does it need heating or something else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, it can be tough to open. There're no screws or anything, just the clips all around the edge. I started with a sharp knife to open a crack and then slid in a credit card and ran that around the edge to release the clips. One of those plastic thingies to open cell phones works even better than a credit card.
dr_vega said:
Yeah, it can be tough to open. There're no screws or anything, just the clips all around the edge. I started with a sharp knife to open a crack and then slid in a credit card and ran that around the edge to release the clips. One of those plastic thingies to open cell phones works even better than a credit card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Link the the antenna that you've bought please? I searched on ebay but there are many kinds of ipex connector
hhai93 said:
Link the the antenna that you've bought please? I searched on ebay but there are many kinds of ipex connector
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Something like this should work.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-4G-5G-5-...862018?hash=item3d60e89bc2:g:Zc8AAOSwAXZa2AJD
dr_vega said:
Something like this should work.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-4G-5G-5-...862018?hash=item3d60e89bc2:g:Zc8AAOSwAXZa2AJD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you! Just bought one, will be arrived at the end of May :fingers-crossed:
dr_vega said:
I have two Mi Boxes. Both have lousy WiFi reception. I finally decided to open one up and see if I could re-position the antenna or replace it. To my surprise, there was no antenna. I opened my other Mi Box and it didn't have an antenna either. There is a little plug for the antenna, but the antenna itself is missing.
The antenna plug is the same one found in most laptops and WiFi cards, variously called an IPX, IPEX, or U.FL plug. You can buy antennas with this plug on ebay or Amazon for about $2. They come as little flags you can stick down or little pcb boards which can have 5dbi or more gain.
I got a couple of 8dbi gain pcb antennas. The can be positioned inside the Mi Box case, but I drilled a small hole and ran them outside where they are clear of the electronics and big steel heatsink and can be aimed at the router. No soldering, just open the Mi Box, take out the four screws that hold the motherboard. Slowly pull off the motherboard which is stuck to the heatsink, and then plug in the antenna. Simple.
My WiFi download speed has almost tripled from less than 10mbs to almost 30mbs. I get 20mbs even through my VPN. I now can stream 1080 HD movies on Netflix without stuttering or buffering.
Spend $2 and 15 minutes work and you won't hate your Mi Box anymore.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi.
I have two MiBox and the connector is not the standard that is used for antennas. It is a Hirose MS-156C, usually used as a test point, so it is not possible to connect antennas with an IPEX connector.
Can you detail how you did it?
Thank you.
diruix said:
Hi.
I have two MiBox and the connector is not the standard that is used for antennas. It is a Hirose MS-156C, usually used as a test point, so it is not possible to connect antennas with an IPEX connector.
Can you detail how you did it?
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That may be true, but IPEX worked for me. I bought a couple of the antennas in the picture. One was hard to press onto the connector and I used a needle nose pliers to apply pressure. The other one snapped on with just fingers.
diruix said:
Hi.
I have two MiBox and the connector is not the standard that is used for antennas. It is a Hirose MS-156C, usually used as a test point, so it is not possible to connect antennas with an IPEX connector.
Can you detail how you did it?
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I confirm that the Ipex connector is compatible.
I tried to insert the antenna into the connector for 5 minutes pressing it with my fingers, but then I decided to use a screwdriver handle for this, I pushed harder, and I was able to connect the antenna.
Toliyn said:
I confirm that the Ipex connector is compatible.
I tried to insert the antenna into the connector for 5 minutes pressing it with my fingers, but then I decided to use a screwdriver handle for this, I pushed harder, and I was able to connect the antenna.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The most important question is "After you forced the connection, did you see a performance increase?" Hopefully, something more than placebo...
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Mr.BungIe said:
The most important question is "After you forced the connection, did you see a performance increase?" Hopefully, something more than placebo...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To begin with, I was unpleasantly surprised with the reception quality of the mi box.
I have a noname Chinese tv box with which there are enough problems, but none of them related with receiving a wi-fi signal.
When I turned on mi box for the first time without an external antenna connected, the device was able to connect to wi-fi and start downloading updates, but the online video playback and TV playback over ott playlist did not work. I even rebooted the mi box several times to make sure that the problem is not related with the updates.
Then I put the antenna all worked as expected.
So I think so. There is a noticeable difference when using an external antenna.
isn't there any android tool that mesure the wifi strength signal ?
If yes it would be nice to have some results before/after
but of course your feedback is very nice.
I had too issues, i fixed them by moving my wifi extender (my wifi router is at 1st floor and on the roof i have an extender to make sure that I have enought signal at both floor. but as the mibox whas having difficulties I moved the extender from one room to very close to the mibox) and since them streaming 1080p video is no more any issue.
But of course installing an antenna would be nice ... or maybe an ethernet usb hub ....
Indeed I may start looking at 4k movies end of the year, and plan to use the mibox (hoping that it will have enougth power)
Did anyone ever confirm if this is an antenna port or not
I just tested this out myself using the same aerial linked earlier, and I found it made no difference to signal strength or throughput. This was determined using the IP tools app and some file transfers.
In fact even though the connector seemed to be a good fit, I found that the middle pin wasn't actually making any contact. I verified this using one of the solder pads next to the connector which has a direct connection to the middle pin socket on the PCB.
I figured this may be why I saw no difference in signal so I cut the plug off the aerial and soldered the wires directly to the mibox and made sure the connections were good, and guess what - still no difference.
As I don't have anything to probe that connector with to see exactly what if anything is coming out I can't verify what it is supposed to do. But I wouldn't waste your time trying to connect an aerial to it.
Lemonato said:
I just tested this out myself using the same aerial linked earlier, and I found it made no difference to signal strength or throughput. This was determined using the IP tools app and some file transfers.
In fact even though the connector seemed to be a good fit, I found that the middle pin wasn't actually making any contact. I verified this using one of the solder pads next to the connector which has a direct connection to the middle pin socket on the PCB.
I figured this may be why I saw no difference in signal so I cut the plug off the aerial and soldered the wires directly to the mibox and made sure the connections were good, and guess what - still no difference.
As I don't have anything to probe that connector with to see exactly what if anything is coming out I can't verify what it is supposed to do. But I wouldn't waste your time trying to connect an aerial to it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did it too and "Lemonato" is right, there is no change on the wifi reception.
** sorry... don't know why the pics is not showing
anyone tried using this mod?
https://youtu.be/Nk-nj_BwoBE?t=5m30s