MOD NOTE: Could you edit this post to correctly embed the images? As im a noob here, it wont let me. TIA!
MOD EDIT: Done!!!
MD
Hi all,
Tonight I decided to take the plunge and flash the TF101 to 4.2.2 EOS nightlies from the stock WW ICS 4.0.3. I got there in the end (thanks Team EOS - 4.2.2. on the TF101 makes it feel like a modern day tablet. Super fast and slick. Cant thank you enough!)
Im a linux guy so I checked out the .bat from the PERI 0.4 to see what commands ADB used in order to get a recovery image on there. Looked straightforward enough, so time to hook the transformer up to USB and begin work. I ensured USB debugging was enabled in the TF and hooked up the USB cable. Nothing happened.
So I check /var/log/syslog and see that something is amiss
Code:
Jun 14 21:12:34 xxx kernel: [92004.938223] usb 3-4: new full-speed USB device n
umber 22 using xhci_hcd
Jun 14 21:12:34 xxx kernel: [92004.938346] usb 3-4: Device not responding to se
t address.
Jun 14 21:12:34 xxx kernel: [92005.142138] usb 3-4: Device not responding to se
t address.
Jun 14 21:12:34 xxx kernel: [92005.345807] usb 3-4: device not accepting addres
s 22, error -71
Jun 14 21:12:34 xxx kernel: [92005.345830] hub 3-0:1.0: unable to enumerate USB
device on port 4
Figured this was maybe a compatibility issue, so tried everything from disabling xhci_hdc to wiggling the dank cable. Nothing.
So hooked the transformer up to windows 7 - got the dreaded error almost immediately
One of the USB devices attached to your computer has malfunctioned, and Windows does not recognize it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After some research, all pointers seemed to imply that the USB cable, while fine for charging, was broken. A pity, I had arrange some 'man cave' time with the wife and was really looking forward to getting 4.2.2 on the TF tonight. But im not a man to be beaten, so decided to try to fix the problem myself. After all, how hard can it be - we are talking 4 wires here.
First, I pulled back the plastic housing from the USB connector. It needed a bit of 'persuasion' by hooking a small watchmaking screwdriver beteween the metal and the plastic (on the side with the white USB symbol on) and pulling the metal connector away from the plastic. This was a bit fiddly, and ill admit the plastic housing did crack ever so slightly, but nothing a bit of superglue didnt fix for me So now im left with this;
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At this point, i prised apart the metal crimp to the rear of the connector using some small pliers, then popped out the shield retainers at the side and rear. This allowed me to remove the metal shield.
Then I removed the bit of insulating tape over the data and power contacts
As this point I could see clearly that the white wire was snapped at the solder joint. I used a bit of *gentle* force cowboy: ) to stretch the white wire a bit further and stripped the end. I then tinned the end and used my butane solder iron (though tbh any decent iron will do) to re-attach the joint
Yes its not the prettiest soldering work in the world, and yes i did slip once and slightly melt the plastic sheild, but im likely never going to see it again and there is no metal to metal contact so should be all good.
At this point, I put the insulating tape back in place (v. important for obvious reasons to do with the connector itself being metal) and reversed the dis-assembly process. When putting the crimp back in place I ensured to use suitable force to ensure that no further stress is placed on the data wires. I also stuck a bit of superglue on the cracked plastic housing and slid everything back into place.
And voila - one working USB datacable again.
In my opinion, the build quality of the manufacturer supplied USB wire is flawed. The USB plug side of the wire has poor crimping of the wiring, allowing excessive movement and stress on the internal wires and solder joints on the connector itself. On top of this, the white data wire seems to be looped over the other wires in such a way that it is always taut - never a good combination where bad crimping is not provding adequate stress relief. At some point in the past my wire has probably been rotated 90 degrees (or so) from centre and the joint of the white data wire just gave up. I guess I have one of my kids to thank for that (though in reality, it was probably me being rough whilest removing the USB wire from the wall-wart charger.
Given the many posts about these wires failing, im inclined to think the problem I encountered is very common.
If you experience a similar problem with your wire and simply cant wait to get a new one shipped, it may be worth trying this method out. Your milage may vary and its entirely at your own risk - I accept no liability for any loss and/or damage to your equipment, your self, your hamster, fluffy cat or anything else. :angel:
I hope this posts helps a few people with their Asus 40 pin connectors that work for charging but dont work for data.
You finally gave me the kick in the bottom that I needed to do the same. Been putting this off for the last year, fro me both teh green and teh white wire were lose. So just for information the order of the wire is
Black
Green
White
Red + Orange
good point rosco thanks for the wiring order!
I wish I could see the pics... but I got a 404 error....
I had same problem on 2 cables.
I assumed that when a cable is used to charge there is some damage caused form high temperature of power supplier.
I suggest 2 cables ( few $ on chinese shops) to use 1 for charging, one for data
bye
Related
Hello. The other day, I discovered that my HD2 had a loose connection on the micro USB entrance. When the cable was plugged in, the connection was only made when the cable was pushed upside.
So I got it for repair, but yesterday the workshop called and said it was my own fault, so they will only fix it for a prize of 540$. As a prove for saying it's my own fault, they send me this picture: http://app1.appserver.dk:8080/RepairPictures/servlet/getPic?id=51371.
They says that the pins from usb entrance is detached from the chip(motherboard), and that could only happen if I'd misused my HD2.
I declined the price offer for the repair, and they will ship my HD2 back.
My question is; Can I fix it myself? Maybe solder the pins to the chip? Is that possible? And how can I disassemble the HD2? Which tools do I need?
Please help!
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The picture isn't very clear, it's hard to say if it's possible and how easy/hard is it. It should be possible, though, but is probably going to be a tedious task. What you need to do is disassemble the phone to the point you can access the USB connector, just like they did on this pic. Take a look where are those detached traces supposed to connect to. Mind the possibility of it also going under the connector, take a look if there are any damaged via points etc. After you did this, you know what you have to restore, from this point on you should also know if you are up to the task.
InfX said:
The picture isn't very clear, it's hard to say if it's possible and how easy/hard is it. It should be possible, though, but is probably going to be a tedious task. What you need to do is disassemble the phone to the point you can access the USB connector, just like they did on this pic. Take a look where are those detached traces supposed to connect to. Mind the possibility of it also going under the connector, take a look if there are any damaged via points etc. After you did this, you know what you have to restore, from this point on you should also know if you are up to the task.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let's put it up this way: If it was you, would you try fixing it yourself?
Yes. But i do have some hardware related experience
Note that the price of $540 is TOTALLY not worth it, you can probably get a new HD2 for this price.
Have you tried another/new cable ?
britoso said:
Have you tried another/new cable ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, but you can clearly see some broken traces on the pic. If that's really is how it looks like, trying a new cable, or doing anything that applies any mechanical force to that connector, can only do more damage.
i had a very similar problem with my htc universal back in the days, and had a console chipper repair it for me but if you're experienced using a soldering iron, maybe you can fix it yourself.
a "console chipper" should have a lot of experience patching this kind of electronic stuff, indeed
I have just had this happen to me with an O2UK HD2.
Anovo have charged me £280 for the repair, claiming it needs a new pcb.
This isn't missuse, this is poor quality. I have never had this happen before and i am inclined to believe its a fault with poorly secured micro usb connectors.
It looks like i'll have to dig out my soldering iron too, lets hope i don't overheat the pads!!
I have an HD2 with a non working usb problem...I have yet to open it up to verify whether its a mechanical or software related issue...I'm betting looks like your pic on the inside
Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G Slide using XDA App
Throatchopper said:
I have an HD2 with a non working usb problem...I have yet to open it up to verify whether its a mechanical or software related issue...I'm betting looks like your pic on the inside
Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G Slide using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yup same problem here but i have to have the usb cable hanging down from the connector to have it work
i agree ****ty assembly process... and i know i used to solder motherboards and power supplies for work
I have the same problem with the usb connection. Can't connect it to the computer anymore. But my windows button also broke.................bad buildquality to bad.
And probobly no warranty cuase i have ozdroid 2.00 installed and can't flash it back anymore..............
Same problem here,
The connection is only made when the cable is pushed upside.
I thought maybe I just replace the mainboard, but that's not possible because these are not sold.. (Different IMEI etc..)
So I wan't to try to replace the micro USB connector.
The disassembly proces is not the problem, I have already replaced 3 LCM modules.. But I wan't to know how difficult it is to replace the connector.
They are sold on ebay for ~7 euros
Anybody already tried?
its doable
I am a former console chipper, so I know its possible, and pretty easy if the traces are not ripped off the board. just use a LOW wattage iron with a thin tip and thin solder so that it melts quick. also use flux. another thing that can help is to either use a strong double sided tape or epoxy to hold the usb connector in place BEFORE soldering the usb connector to the board to keep the problem from happening again.
mikeyman2171 said:
I am a former console chipper, so I know its possible, and pretty easy if the traces are not ripped off the board. just use a LOW wattage iron with a thin tip and thin solder so that it melts quick. also use flux. another thing that can help is to either use a strong double sided tape or epoxy to hold the usb connector in place BEFORE soldering the usb connector to the board to keep the problem from happening again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i was about to say the same thing, youre spot on there.
depending on the level of damage to solder pads and traces these should be quite repairable on most.
reinforcement with epoxy as suggested by mikeyman is an excellent idea.
anybody in the uk near the midlands with a bust usb port? id love to have a go at one of these as i have plenty of experience with console work, i do 0603 smd leds by hand with ease so sure i could do this.
Just broke mine... I have to lift the cable up for it to charge... Any one near watford who can fix?
mooooooa said:
Hello. The other day, I discovered that my HD2 had a loose connection on the micro USB entrance. When the cable was plugged in, the connection was only made when the cable was pushed upside.
So I got it for repair, but yesterday the workshop called and said it was my own fault, so they will only fix it for a prize of 540$. As a prove for saying it's my own fault, they send me this picture: http://app1.appserver.dk:8080/RepairPictures/servlet/getPic?id=51371.
They says that the pins from usb entrance is detached from the chip(motherboard), and that could only happen if I'd misused my HD2.
I declined the price offer for the repair, and they will ship my HD2 back.
My question is; Can I fix it myself? Maybe solder the pins to the chip? Is that possible? And how can I disassemble the HD2? Which tools do I need?
Please help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=986268&page=2
well maybe I should have taken some picture when I was repairing mine. These comment may not help much. The one showed in the picture will be super hard to fix. First of all, the 3 pads are gone and leaving 2 with a little bit remain. To at least charge the phone you need to rewire the 1st and 5th pin in order to charge. and I think one of the pin is useless but the middle pins are for data. trace the pin and bridge them with copper wire or extreme small wires. the pins are always connected to the caps near the port so try to trace around there. and don't dig the pads its no use. you will only dig the ground or (-) out of it.
Mogkupopppo said:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=986268&page=2
well maybe I should have taken some picture when I was repairing mine. These comment may not help much. The one showed in the picture will be super hard to fix. First of all, the 3 pads are gone and leaving 2 with a little bit remain. To at least charge the phone you need to rewire the 1st and 5th pin in order to charge. and I think one of the pin is useless but the middle pins are for data. trace the pin and bridge them with copper wire or extreme small wires. the pins are always connected to the caps near the port so try to trace around there. and don't dig the pads its no use. you will only dig the ground or (-) out of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My USB port is broken. The connector flexes and I can see that the part of the PCB that was soldered to the USB pins has stayed with the USB and broken away from the main PCB.
I can easily solder "flying leads" for pin 1 (+5V - seems to be a large "test pin" directly below) and pin 5 (GND - will solder to USB shell leg). This should restore charging via USB.
I am just unsure about where the data pins 2 and 3 should be soldered to. Do you know where you soldered them?
Thanks
Darren .)
broken usb port htc hd2
nutmegy said:
Just broke mine... I have to lift the cable up for it to charge... Any one near watford who can fix?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HI,
I have a broken micro usb port on my htc hd2 and wondered if you managed to get yours fixed.I know yours was damaged some time ago but I also live near Watford so wondered if there is a reasonable place that could fix it for me.
Thankyou,
Jeevesta
Mine just broke, as well. All of a sudden, I now have to tilt the cable up to get it to charge, and tethering does NOT work at all anymore. Anyone in the US have this problem? If so, did you get it repaired, and if so, how did you do it? I have no idea about the soldering and other stuff the earlier posts mentioned, and T-Mobile told me I just need to get another phone. Please help!
Sent from my NexusHD2 using xda premium
This guide is based on [GUIDE] The $6 way to charging your EEE Pad on your computer, taken one step further.
DISCLAIMER! YOU DO THIS ON YOUR OWN RISK! IF YOU SCREW SOMETHING UP ITS NOT MY FAULT!
This guide will show you how you can charge your TF101 from the PC, while also have it connected through USB allowing you to sync etc just as you normally would.
Its possible this method also works on the TF201, but I dont know for sure.
Difficulty: Pisseasy
Parts and tools needed:
A female molex connector with the yellow(+12v) and black(ground) wire. Where you get it from doesnt matter. I stole mine from an old pci-e -> molex adapter.
Headphone extension cord (or any other 2-wire cable you can use as a connector)
USB extension cord (2.0 works fine, no need to get a 3.0)
Tape (or if youre not as lazy as me - a soldering iron)
Teeth (or a wire-stripper/cutter)
Carpet knife or similar
Multimeter, not necessary but recommended to check if the power is correct before hooking it up to your tablet.
Ok, lets get started!
Id like to apologize for the rather vague images. I took them after I had actually built the cable.
Grab the male end of the headphone extension cord and cut it, leaving a bit of cable (I left around 20cm)
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Next, grab the USB Extension cord.
I wish I had a better picture for this, but its not that tricky. What you want to do is remove the cover around the shielding, remove the shielding and exposing the 4 wires.
Once thats done, cut the red and black wires, leave the green and white.
Strip the red and black wires going towards the female end of the extension cord.
Connect the white and red wire from the male audio extension cord to the red and black wire on the usb extension cord. I suggest you attach red to red, white to black. It doesnt matter much though, but do remember how you connect them.
If done correctly you should end up with something similar as the picture.
Grab your favorite roll of tape and secure the wires and you should end up with this
Gratz, the first part is complete! Now to steal some power from the PC.
Grab the remaining part of the audio extension cord, which should contain the female connection.
Grab your molex connector (In the picture, I have already stolen one of the molex connectors)
Now, strip the yellow and black wire on the molex connector, and strip the red and white cable on the female audio cord.
Connect them the same way you did with the usb cable (if you followed my example, yellow goes to red, black goes to white).
Excuse my extremely dusty PC... Im ashamed :x
this might be a good part to route the molex-female audio cable inside the PC so it reaches outside.
Once thats done, simply hook the molex connector up to a free connector in your PC
And finally, grab your usb-male audio cable, connect the male audio with the female audio and plug the usb end into a free usb port.
Finally! Hook up your original TF101 usb cable to the female end of the USB cord and enjoy being able to charge your tablet while transfering files!
WARNING! Do NOT connect anything but the TF to this cable. 12v will fry any normal USB device.
Troubleshooting:
If your tablet does not react when you connect it, you have most likely gotten the polarities wrong. Simply switch the place of either red/black on the usb cable, or yellow/black on the molex connector (this is where a multimeter is handy).
There are many ways of doing this, I chose to do it like this because I had an audio extension cord lying around, and I wanted to be able to detach the cable from the PC.
Basically all you have to do is cut the red and black wire from the usb cable, and hook them up to the 12v rail on your PC instead of the 5v rail USB is running on.
How you chose to do this is, in the end, up to you.
Additionally, if you replace the audio jacks with some other more standard DC plug, you could use this cable to charge your TF using any DC adapter that provides 12-15V.
Once I get a USB Extension Kit for my TF, Im going to try to add a charging port to that as well. If I succeed in that, Ill post another guide covering that.
If you found this guide useful, hit 'thanks'
I'll try it when I'll have the time =) Nice tutorial!
It's just stupid I can't see the images..
DerSandmann said:
It's just stupid I can't see the images..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Son of a.... Youre right... Ill fix it...
edit: Pictures should work now.
Heres a "benchmark", or whatever you want to call it, showing roughly how fast the tablet charges.
Note that the screen was turned on all the time, and I used it occasionally.
It does indeed charge slower than the real wall-charger, but thats not strange considering theres a 3V difference.
The wall charger charges an equal amount in roughly 1:30h, during the same usage.
Edit: I forgot to mention, if you use this method you can extend the charging cable easily by just hooking up an addition audio extension cable
Do beware of voltage drops though, the cables aint exactly thick. My cable is around 4m total, and I get a voltage drop of ~0.5v from the molex to the female usb plug.
I tried this and got to the extention cable section, I totally butchered my usb extension cable and gave up since I don't have another. Great guide though! I just can't cut and splice without completly failing and breaking things -_-
Thing O Doom said:
I tried this and got to the extention cable section, I totally butchered my usb extension cable and gave up since I don't have another. Great guide though! I just can't cut and splice without completly failing and breaking things -_-
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats where
Goatshocker said:
Parts and tools needed:
....
Teeth (or a wire-stripper/cutter)
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
comes in ;D
Dont know how you managed to butcher the cable though , you just need to strip 2 wires (or 4, if you decide its easier to cut the white and green too), and wire them together.
Hey guys,
been a long time lurker, but I've ran into a bit of a snag that I need some help with.
missus broke her charger and used something else to charge the phone and after a bit the phone just went pop and turned off and wont switch back on again.
There is no visible damage to the phone whatsoever.
Is there some sort of mechanism designed to protect the phone from the surge or whatever it was?
I would hate for the main board to be completely knackered :S
I've been reading around and there is a USB board that connects to the rest of the phone? will it be just a case of replacing that or is the phone shafted? :S
Thanks folks.
Depends on what kind of charger she used. I do know that there are some micro-usb chargers/cable whose pin connections are different than the ones that come with the i9100.
If a different battery and a oem charger doesnt turn on the phone at all, your only option may be to send it to samsung for repair.
Thanks for the reply.
She's tried charging it on the PC and it wont work.
not to keen on sending it to samsung as they'll charge an arm and a leg.
What do you guys think? Will the damage be limited to the USB board or will this cost me any more?
Im not at home right now to be able to open it up so will rely on your expert opinions!
Honestly, how would we know without looking at it ? Something is blown which is stopping the phone from powering up, what, is anyone's guess.
Take it to a mobile repair shop if you don't want to send it to Samsung & get a quote.
As above and they might say it needs a new USB board then you can price a USB board up on ebay .
jje
Thanks guys,
In your opinion. Is it likely that the main parts of the phone have been damaged or do you think the damage has been absorbed by the battery and USB board?
Have you sniffed it to see if it stinks of burning.I would open it up and look at the internals.I would only send it for repair as a last resort as mboards are like 180 bucks.
sent by my s2 using xda premium
Ok. You already got an answer, so frankly, you deserve this.
I reckon the phone is totally shot. Not replaceable. Foolishly using an incompatible charger has turned the phone into a $500+ 135 gram hunk of useless plastic. Stuffed, in a word. Time for a new phone.
Now, for the slow kids up the back, you put too many zzzzs into the phone. Something burnt out. I don't know anyone on here who has the ability to view the innards of your phone over distance.
Take it to a phone shop.
I can say it slower if that didn't get through ?
MistahBungle said:
Ok. You already got an answer, so frankly, you deserve this.
I reckon the phone is totally shot. Not replaceable. Foolishly using an incompatible charger has turned the phone into a $500+ 135 gram hunk of useless plastic. Stuffed, in a word. Time for a new phone.
Now, for the slow kids up the back, you put too many zzzzs into the phone. Something burnt out. I don't know anyone on here who has the ability to view the innards of your phone over distance.
Take it to a phone shop.
I can say it slower if that didn't get through ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Theres no need to be arrogant about it.
Not once did I ask for you to use your magic skills to look inside the housing of my wifes phone. At this moment in time, even I do not have this ability.
I asked for your "opinion" as to what the damage could potentially be, google it if you require a definition.
I still thank you for delivering to me your opinion (eventually)
I'm away from home for a few weeks so I can't have a look inside the phone so just trying to get some feelers as to the likelihood of damage byond the USB flex cable.
Thank you very much,
GP
You have to first tell us what the "something else" used for charging is before we can make an educated guess as to what has happened.
whoops sorry about that.
It was a broken charger from an old android phone.
It would sometimes work, and not at other times.
I'm guessing the charger short circuited or something??
Cheers again
Think he means volts,mAs,polarity of the charger
sent by my s2 using xda premium
Right, I did some digging and it turns out I was lying.
it wasn't a broken charger, It was a perfectly healthy charger for a Samsung tocco lite
i checked the spec on it and it seems to be the same as the S2
5v
0.7A
?
yeah that wouldn't damage the phone without anything else being wrong, like the charger being 110V and you being in 220-220V country or something like that
nope :S
nothing like that.
it was used in the same house.
So you're saying there could be an underlying issue?
Broken charger or broken phone. It wasnt the charger's specs that killed it
Connect it to a car in the car battery and start ignition. Now there is "something else" for you
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Hey guys,
I have an update.
I've finally gotten home and managed to pull the sucker apart.
No corrosion on any parts of the phone whatsoever.
However I have noticed something about the actual USB port that is stuck onto the USB flex cable
If I face the socket away from me, there are 7 joints that solder the port onto the usb board. The Joint on the far right, I wouldn't say it looks burnt, but it just looks a little dull compared to the rest, and definately looks slightly different.
This joint has a white arrow pointing towards it printed on the PCB of the actual board.
I tried taking some photos but they're not exactly high res.
Unfortunately I can't determine if the dullness of this joint is significanlty enough to denote damage or whether thats how it should normally look like.
Does anybody know what it should look like?
I tried googling for pictures but there arent any clear ones that show this. :S
Cheers.
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So here is my plan, and I just wanted to run it by anyone who might be more tech-savy out there than me.
My plan is this (or see graphic)…. To Hard wire a USB charging cable into my vehicles electrical system. (All hidden under the dash) I mainly want to go this route because in the end, the biggest part of this fabrication would be the size of my pinky finger and cost me a total of like $4 for the fuse tap since i have the rest.
So what I will be doing it, taking a Mini (ATM) Fuse Tap and plugging it into the already present radio fuse slot. I’ll then wire the 12v Output of the fuse tap to the input of a 5v Regulator. I’ll ground the regulator to some random metal surface. Then I’ll wire the 5v Output on the regulator to the positive line of a cut USB-A to Micro USB cord. I’ll short out the USB cord’s data wired so the phone thinks it’s charging with AC power and pull the full mA. I’ll ground the negative of the USB cord to the ground post of the voltage regulator and call it a day.
I have considered an alternate route to this…Which would be similar in being that I would use a fuse tap and add in an additional AUX Charging Socket to that line, and adding something small like a giffin USB charger to the Charging Socket, followed by the USB cord. But I am inquisitive and experimental (as long as I can make sure it’s safe first) lol. So I want to give this way a try before I do that one.
Attached it a picture for easier explanation.
[URL="http://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/de-sw050”]5v Regulator[/URL]
Fuse Tap
2a Fuse
USB Cable
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Sounds interesting, but I would go the second route with wiring in an aux cig lighter power port to plug in a small sized USB adapter. Lots of 12v sources under the dash and you could put this anywhere, and run a usb cord from it.
Question, why not just use the cig lighter that is already in your car?
Because what I want to do is get a window mount for the phone and mount it, then also supply a power cord to be used only for that mount. I don't want a cord strung across my dash, so I'm going the build a new power source and stuff it under the dash method. Plus I still want the full functionality of my pre existing aux port.
Sent from my HTC DNA.
Oh hi! MECP certified car installer here. Why not just buy a car charger and a second power socket, fuse the positive to a constant or accessory source, and ground the negative to a good source of metal, then plug in and tape up the two pieces? The way you're doing it is way too messy and complicated
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda app-developers app
I must say that I agree with bigred on this one. Sounds like a great learning experience/project. Sometimes, because one way is simpler, doesn't necessarily mean it is the correct way to do it. Bigreds idea seams to be a cleaner final product, with more secure connections. My .02.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda premium
trickster2369 said:
I must say that I agree with bigred on this one. Sounds like a great learning experience/project. Sometimes, because one way is simpler, doesn't necessarily mean it is the correct way to do it. Bigreds idea seams to be a cleaner final product, with more secure connections. My .02.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I broke down and built one. Works out pretty good and provides a steady 5v of what appears to be clean power.
ROFLsplash said:
Oh hi! MECP certified car installer here. Why not just buy a car charger and a second power socket, fuse the positive to a constant or accessory source, and ground the negative to a good source of metal, then plug in and tape up the two pieces? The way you're doing it is way too messy and complicated
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some people might think that it is messy and complicated, but i find it easily customizable (contrary to messy, and not complicated).
I have done this type of thing in most every rig I've had over the past 10 years, about 4 or 5 I think. I have two reasons for doing it, one is to reduce clutter from the cable across the dash and the other is to leave the existing 12v outlet available for passengers/guests/other accessories.
I would agree with most of the other comments here about installing another 12v socket under the dash. This is what I do, I actually put two under there, leaving one open for future applications. This is more versatile and can be adapted to future devices more easily. All you have to do is plug in the necessary car charger under your dash and run the cable through the defrost vents and to the car dock. I just got done doing this with my wireless car dock in my service truck, new GMC 2500HD, worked out great and I still have two free outputs, one for guests and one for my laptop charger.
But, to each their own and if you already have the necessary parts as you mentioned, then why not. I'm certain that mine cost a lot more than $4 to setup. $9 for the double 12v outlets and $10 for the Palm car charger with usb cord(they push a full amp for fast charge) and I guess $2 for shrink tube and connectors.
So my dog ate my charger a few days back, and just the piece that clips in to the tablet s charge port. The charger is $80 on amazon and $70-110 many other sites. They just don't have chargers that aren't with a tablet a as well online. There are no used chargers for a tablet a on craigslist lol I wish....$5 fresh off the truck . So as I don't want to resort to buying another charger I tried utilizing the tablet s mini USB port on the side near the memory card slot with a mini USB regular android charger and also checked if it could and would work in the forums and it did not....
So my question is can I take those two wires (black and white) in the pic and kinda lay them anywhere specific in the charge port on my tablet s or cut the back and place them anywhere special? Any tech savvy advice would Be helpful or a plain no so I have to suck it up an go buy one although I'm just missing that magical diamond played $80 tip that make it unique to Sony . Arghhhhhghhg
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andywhite2008 said:
So my dog ate my charger a few days back, and just the piece that clips in to the tablet s charge port. The charger is $80 on amazon and $70-110 many other sites. They just don't have chargers that aren't with a tablet a as well online. There are no used chargers for a tablet a on craigslist lol I wish....$5 fresh off the truck . So as I don't want to resort to buying another charger I tried utilizing the tablet s mini USB port on the side near the memory card slot with a mini USB regular android charger and also checked if it could and would work in the forums and it did not....
So my question is can I take those two wires (black and white) in the pic and kinda lay them anywhere specific in the charge port on my tablet s or cut the back and place them anywhere special? Any tech savvy advice would Be helpful or a plain no so I have to suck it up an go buy one although I'm just missing that magical diamond played $80 tip that make it unique to Sony . Arghhhhhghhg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can use any usb charger with at least 1-1.5mAh output! I recommend the EP850 for Xperia phones :good:
reptile64 said:
You can use any usb charger with at least 1-1.5mAh output! I recommend the EP850 for Xperia phones :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can not charge a Sony Tablet S via its USB port.
Cat McGowan said:
You can not charge a Sony Tablet S via its USB port.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought he was talking about the Xperia tablet
If you are looking at the tablet face up. It is the first and third gold squares that do the charging.
gumbyballz said:
If you are looking at the tablet face up. It is the first and third gold squares that do the charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, it is the second and third.
Sorry if I was wrong. I left my charger attatched for a very a long time and noticed build up on those two I mentioned. Like you would see on a car battery. I figured those would be it. Not very smart for sony to put it on 2nd and 3rd, Ive noticed the clips tend to bend on the charger easily. Sorry again.
Cat McGowan said:
Actually, it is the second and third.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that, I didn't see that printed on the back of the charger! My dog did a similar thing last summer, the end completely vanished. Didn't bother getting a new one at the time (about £20) and have just realised that the price has sky rocketed.
I bought a used SGPDS1 cradle on ebay for £20 and intend to modify it to become my new charger
To take it apart, the rear stand slides up fully with a firm push (careful, there are two silver plastic tabs to gently unclick underneath)
There are then 4 screws to undo and a plastic cover comes off the back of the main cradle to expose the wiring loom.
I want to connect a fly lead to the wiring loom and attach my end-less charger to it.
Before I do this, can a kind soul confirm that the outer two contacts are not connected? Inside the cradle, all the wires are connected, and the middle white connection breaks out into two connections
I am guessing the white wires are positive (connection 2 from left) and the black negative.
I have attached a few photos.
TIA
Mark
Cat McGowan said:
Actually, it is the second and third.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After having procured a new charger, I have found that the first pin (from the cable end) is connected to the centre wire and the second pin is connected to the outer cable.
This charges the tablet perfectly when I touch the pads on the bottom of the tablet with the bare wires!