This guide is based on [GUIDE] The $6 way to charging your EEE Pad on your computer, taken one step further.
DISCLAIMER! YOU DO THIS ON YOUR OWN RISK! IF YOU SCREW SOMETHING UP ITS NOT MY FAULT!
This guide will show you how you can charge your TF101 from the PC, while also have it connected through USB allowing you to sync etc just as you normally would.
Its possible this method also works on the TF201, but I dont know for sure.
Difficulty: Pisseasy
Parts and tools needed:
A female molex connector with the yellow(+12v) and black(ground) wire. Where you get it from doesnt matter. I stole mine from an old pci-e -> molex adapter.
Headphone extension cord (or any other 2-wire cable you can use as a connector)
USB extension cord (2.0 works fine, no need to get a 3.0)
Tape (or if youre not as lazy as me - a soldering iron)
Teeth (or a wire-stripper/cutter)
Carpet knife or similar
Multimeter, not necessary but recommended to check if the power is correct before hooking it up to your tablet.
Ok, lets get started!
Id like to apologize for the rather vague images. I took them after I had actually built the cable.
Grab the male end of the headphone extension cord and cut it, leaving a bit of cable (I left around 20cm)
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Next, grab the USB Extension cord.
I wish I had a better picture for this, but its not that tricky. What you want to do is remove the cover around the shielding, remove the shielding and exposing the 4 wires.
Once thats done, cut the red and black wires, leave the green and white.
Strip the red and black wires going towards the female end of the extension cord.
Connect the white and red wire from the male audio extension cord to the red and black wire on the usb extension cord. I suggest you attach red to red, white to black. It doesnt matter much though, but do remember how you connect them.
If done correctly you should end up with something similar as the picture.
Grab your favorite roll of tape and secure the wires and you should end up with this
Gratz, the first part is complete! Now to steal some power from the PC.
Grab the remaining part of the audio extension cord, which should contain the female connection.
Grab your molex connector (In the picture, I have already stolen one of the molex connectors)
Now, strip the yellow and black wire on the molex connector, and strip the red and white cable on the female audio cord.
Connect them the same way you did with the usb cable (if you followed my example, yellow goes to red, black goes to white).
Excuse my extremely dusty PC... Im ashamed :x
this might be a good part to route the molex-female audio cable inside the PC so it reaches outside.
Once thats done, simply hook the molex connector up to a free connector in your PC
And finally, grab your usb-male audio cable, connect the male audio with the female audio and plug the usb end into a free usb port.
Finally! Hook up your original TF101 usb cable to the female end of the USB cord and enjoy being able to charge your tablet while transfering files!
WARNING! Do NOT connect anything but the TF to this cable. 12v will fry any normal USB device.
Troubleshooting:
If your tablet does not react when you connect it, you have most likely gotten the polarities wrong. Simply switch the place of either red/black on the usb cable, or yellow/black on the molex connector (this is where a multimeter is handy).
There are many ways of doing this, I chose to do it like this because I had an audio extension cord lying around, and I wanted to be able to detach the cable from the PC.
Basically all you have to do is cut the red and black wire from the usb cable, and hook them up to the 12v rail on your PC instead of the 5v rail USB is running on.
How you chose to do this is, in the end, up to you.
Additionally, if you replace the audio jacks with some other more standard DC plug, you could use this cable to charge your TF using any DC adapter that provides 12-15V.
Once I get a USB Extension Kit for my TF, Im going to try to add a charging port to that as well. If I succeed in that, Ill post another guide covering that.
If you found this guide useful, hit 'thanks'
I'll try it when I'll have the time =) Nice tutorial!
It's just stupid I can't see the images..
DerSandmann said:
It's just stupid I can't see the images..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Son of a.... Youre right... Ill fix it...
edit: Pictures should work now.
Heres a "benchmark", or whatever you want to call it, showing roughly how fast the tablet charges.
Note that the screen was turned on all the time, and I used it occasionally.
It does indeed charge slower than the real wall-charger, but thats not strange considering theres a 3V difference.
The wall charger charges an equal amount in roughly 1:30h, during the same usage.
Edit: I forgot to mention, if you use this method you can extend the charging cable easily by just hooking up an addition audio extension cable
Do beware of voltage drops though, the cables aint exactly thick. My cable is around 4m total, and I get a voltage drop of ~0.5v from the molex to the female usb plug.
I tried this and got to the extention cable section, I totally butchered my usb extension cable and gave up since I don't have another. Great guide though! I just can't cut and splice without completly failing and breaking things -_-
Thing O Doom said:
I tried this and got to the extention cable section, I totally butchered my usb extension cable and gave up since I don't have another. Great guide though! I just can't cut and splice without completly failing and breaking things -_-
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats where
Goatshocker said:
Parts and tools needed:
....
Teeth (or a wire-stripper/cutter)
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
comes in ;D
Dont know how you managed to butcher the cable though , you just need to strip 2 wires (or 4, if you decide its easier to cut the white and green too), and wire them together.
Related
Hi I lost my G1 cable and I wanted to know if I could use a regular mini USB to update my G1 without having issues?
Yes, you can.
Make sure the miniusb cable you are using has a ferrite core/bead on it. Some folks with poorly shielded computer innards have experienced data corruption on cables without ferrites. If your miniusb cable doesn't have one, look around the house for a computer cable with a core that you can remove.
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You can remove those things? I thought they were attached to the wire. I've just been using random junky usb cables with no beads on 'em and I haven't had any problems. I just checked the cord that came with the G1 and that doesn't even have a bead on it.
yeah hes saying, some people, so more often than not you dont need one, its for people who like to be extra safe especially if they end up bricking the device from corrupted data.
one thing that i have heard is that adb will not work if you are using a regular cable, there are a few extra wires and connectors in the usb cable for the G1, it is also a different shape than that of a regular mini usb connector. but for daily use, or just moviing files you shouldn't have any problems
Err, I have several mini USB's, I usually randomly grab one when I work with my G1, I have never had a problem with using ABD or any other type of problem. Also, I'm 99% positive the stock USB cable is no different then any other cable.
Wisefire said:
Also, I'm 99% positive the stock USB cable is no different then any other cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
and i am 100% positive it is different from 99% of other mini USB cables. look at the input for the cable on your g1 and compare it to the mini USB port on anything else you have laying around your house and you will notice there is a difference
tubaking182 said:
and i am 100% positive it is different from 99% of other mini USB cables. look at the input for the cable on your g1 and compare it to the mini USB port on anything else you have laying around your house and you will notice there is a difference
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, The input is strange, The HTC Shadow is the exact same way. Do realize, the stock USB's "Head", the metal pin, is not the perfect match for the slot on the Dream, it's a basic mini USB. Although, The included stock headphone/ear piece's connector, does in fact fit the input in the exact manor.
I think it's just the "head shape" that is different. I hvn't had any problems with other USBs.
Yes, currently I am using a Blackberry USB cable, and ADB and all functions work properly. In the past, I've used the original G1 cable, one for a Canon digital camera and one for an HTC Vogue, ADB works for all of them. Most of all, USB stands for Universal Serial Bus.. so I assume they are all the same.
tubaking182 said:
and i am 100% positive it is different from 99% of other mini USB cables. look at the input for the cable on your g1 and compare it to the mini USB port on anything else you have laying around your house and you will notice there is a difference
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's an ExtUSB port, which is a HTC variant of the mini usb plug that has additional pins for audio. However the usb data lines are physically and electrically identical to standard usb, so for all intents and purposes unless you are using a special ExtUSB headset, it is plain mini usb. The supplied cable is a standard mini usb, so any other mini usb cable will work. Do heed my earlier warning to use a cable with a ferrite though.
I have about 30 different mini usb cables sitting around the house and i have probably used all of them once to or twice well doing playing with my HTC devices
Actually, that ferrite theory might explain things for me... I am experiencing some strange behavior when I use cables without the ferrite bead - the G1 will act as it's charging, but I don't get the "mount" option, i.e. it doesn't detect that it's actually connected to my computer. This happens both when directly connected to the computer USB port, and via a USB hub. I'm pretty sure that when I use a cable with the ferrite bead it also detects the computer and I'm able to data mount it.
Also, when using a cable without the bead, I have noticed that although the G1 says it's charging, it either doesn't or it charges really, really slowly, cause I could check by pressing power or menu once that it says charging - 76%, then turn off the display, then check again like half an hour later and it's still at 76%.
So I would actually say yes: the USB cable matters big time.
But of course, this is all based on my personal experience.
~Christopher
i plugged up an old desktop to retrieve some stuff the other day and realized that it didn't have usb2.0 and would not let the phone stay mounted. so just a caution if thats an issue.
grenness said:
Actually, that ferrite theory might explain things for me... I am experiencing some strange behavior when I use cables without the ferrite bead - the G1 will act as it's charging, but I don't get the "mount" option, i.e. it doesn't detect that it's actually connected to my computer. This happens both when directly connected to the computer USB port, and via a USB hub. I'm pretty sure that when I use a cable with the ferrite bead it also detects the computer and I'm able to data mount it.
Also, when using a cable without the bead, I have noticed that although the G1 says it's charging, it either doesn't or it charges really, really slowly, cause I could check by pressing power or menu once that it says charging - 76%, then turn off the display, then check again like half an hour later and it's still at 76%.
So I would actually say yes: the USB cable matters big time.
But of course, this is all based on my personal experience.
~Christopher
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
strange, that's a similar thing that happens when not using enough voltage (the battery issue). I have a homemade battery powered usb charger, but it's only 4.5v as opposed to 5v. This causes strange issues with my g1 and my girlfriends. do you have lots of things drawing power (LED lights, lit up SATA cables, tons of usb stuff etc) because that can cause instability with your computer and sometimes undervolting usb things.
Ferrite beads more have to do with interference which doesnt seem like issue. Although i'd certainly use a cable with a ferrite bead when flashing or issuing commands via adb, flashboot etc.
So, i've seen a few pics of the dongle both assembled and disassembled... my question: if i disassemble my dongle and plug it into my dock can i use it? Physically it looks like it would fit, im just wondering if it will function... any ideas?
Edit:
To avoid confusion, i want to go [Prime] -> [Dock] -> [GPS]
The dock has both a male AND female connection.
Aparently it does not function as of yet, might be software? What pins are being used on the gps and what pins get passed through on the dock? If were lucky its just a software thing, or maybe it requires some pins to get passed to the dock connector.
We had the first person who opened up said it didn't work when he plugged it into the dock. The pin layout might be different or could be a software thing. If a software issues, developers here should be able to modify the file path or whatever that the GPS software in prime looks at. Instead of looking for dongle at the prime 40pin connector, maybe it could be rerouted to the dock 40pin connector. Or software change that'll detect either and link it up accordingly.
Plug it in to your keyboard dock you mean?
>i disassemble my dongle and plug it into my dock can i use it?
Mating connectors use the male-female concept. Tablet plugs into dock, so one is male, the other is female. Dongle plugs into tab, so it is opposite gender of tab, and same gender as dock. Ergo, dongle can't plug into dock, coz like-gendered connectors can't mate.
---------- Post added at 02:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:09 AM ----------
BTW, for those who want to mod toys at the chip level, might as well get well acquainted with your soldering iron. Little bitties in dongle means SMT fun. Contrary to popular belief, you can do SMT stuff w/o fancy tools. A vid primer, then:
e.mote said:
>i disassemble my dongle and plug it into my dock can i use it?
Mating connectors use the male-female concept. Tablet plugs into dock, so one is male, the other is female. Dongle plugs into tab, so it is opposite gender of tab, and same gender as dock. Ergo, dongle can't plug into dock, coz like-gendered connectors can't mate.
---------- Post added at 02:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:09 AM ----------
BTW, for those who want to mod toys at the chip level, might as well get well acquainted with your soldering iron. Little bitties in dongle means SMT fun. Contrary to popular belief, you can do SMT stuff w/o fancy tools. A vid primer, then:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But doesn't the dock also have another 40pin female connector on the side of it? This is how it gets charged with the prime power adapter that has 40pin male adapter on the end. Plus someone who opened it up already said they plugged it into the dock but it wouldn't work.
I know what you saying about like gender adapters not being able to mate but I believe the dock has a male adapter, to go into the prime for dock connection, and another female adapter on it so it can be charged at the same time.
demandarin is correct, the dock does in fact have both a male connection to connect to the prime and a female connection which the power adapter connects to.
Guess i would have to look into if the dock passes through all the pins or just a select few, however data at least should work, i connect my computer to my prime through the dock all the time to transfer files (instead of undocking the prime and connecting that way)
Edited the first post to include information thus far.
>But doesn't the dock also have another 40pin female connector on the side of it? This is how it gets charged with the prime power adapter that has 40pin male adapter on the end.
If the port is only used for charging, there'd be no data lines going to it. There's no reason to daisy-chain the charging connector to the docking connector. If you want to do that, then you'd have to figure out the pin-out. Even then, the odds of something going poof is still pretty good. This ventures into the territory of "if you have to ask, then the answer is no." It's not a good idea.
If you want working GPS and working dock at same time, ditch the dongle and go with active GPS antenna mod for the built-in GPS. It's simpler and more straightforward. If you're good, you may be able to have an inset port for the MCX connector and have nothing sticking out. Not sure if there's enough space to do that, though, so you may have a slight nub sticking out.
Also, the fact that you can't turn off the dongle is another issue with a Daisy chain solution
e.mote said:
>go with active GPS antenna mod for the built-in GPS. It's simpler and more straightforward.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you talking about the beer can mod with wire or did I miss a thread along the way.
>Are you talking about the beer can mod with wire or did I miss a thread along the way.
I'm talking about an aftermarket GPS antenna like these below. You'll need to mount a SMA or preferably a smaller MCX port, then jerry-rig some power for the "active" antenna (because GPS signal is weak, it needs an amp to compensate for signal loss, which needs power). Come to think of it, since cable length isn't excessive, you can try a passive ant and see what happens. The key is to get the antenna element outside of the metal case, and replacing the crappy internal PFA one. The connector is intended for quick-on/off use.
http://google.com/products?q=active+gps+antenna+mcx
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For further info,
https://google.com/search?q=gps+antenna+mod
e.mote said:
>But doesn't the dock also have another 40pin female connector on the side of it? This is how it gets charged with the prime power adapter that has 40pin male adapter on the end.
If the port is only used for charging, there'd be no data lines going to it. There's no reason to daisy-chain the charging connector to the docking connector. If you want to do that, then you'd have to figure out the pin-out. Even then, the odds of something going poof is still pretty good. This ventures into the territory of "if you have to ask, then the answer is no." It's not a good idea.
If you want working GPS and working dock at same time, ditch the dongle and go with active GPS antenna mod for the built-in GPS. It's simpler and more straightforward. If you're good, you may be able to have an inset port for the MCX connector and have nothing sticking out. Not sure if there's enough space to do that, though, so you may have a slight nub sticking out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The port isn't just used for charging on the dock. I can plug the USB to the dock with my tablet attached and can transfer data fine.
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
kwazytazz said:
The port isn't just used for charging on the dock. I can plug the USB to the dock with my tablet attached and can transfer data fine.
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No but the 40 pin on the dock may well just be used for charging .. data may be connected to the SD/USB sub board
Deffo needs more investigation .. tempting indeed !
I just finished making this cable. It's a female iPod connector that splits to micro USB and 3.5 mm headphones plug. I was tired of everyone making just iPhone compatible stereos but never giving ever other phone a way of charging without a separate wall charger. If they have a iPod dock they could easily put USB on the device also. Anyway here are the pics of the first prototype I made. Works flawlessly and charges as A/C.
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Tutorial
How to make an iPod dock cable
The first thing I did was buy these 3 cables.
An iPod dock extension cable http://www.ebay.com/itm/30069026148...NX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_2757wt_698 ,
an 3.5mm stereo cable http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...d=10218&cs_id=1021802&p_id=644&seq=1&format=2 ,
and a micro usb cable http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=4868&seq=1&format=2 . I then cut the iPod dock cable in half. Set the female end to the side. I opened up the male end to verify the color of the wiring to which pin they were attached to. What you need is 5 wires from the iPod dock connector. You need is the wires for either pin 1 or 2( audio GND) , pin 3(Audio R) , pin 4 (Audio L) , pin 16(USB GND), and pin 23 (USB +5VDC).
Now that you know what colors you need from the male end of the iPod connector, strip back about 4 inches of the outside jacket on the female ends cable you set aside. What I did was twist the outside drain/ground mesh together then separate the 5 wires you need from the cable. I then took the remaining wires put them in a line and cut them on a diagonal starting at about an inch. This way each wire is shorter than the next. Now twist them back together and put a piece of heat shrink over them. Now you should have the outside drain/ground and the 5 other wires left. Now cut the other 2 cables however long you want them . I made the 3.5 mm cable about 8 inches longer because it has to reach the top of your phone and the micro USB goes only to the side. Now strip back about 4 inches of the outside jacket of the other 2 cables. Do the same think and twist the outside drain/ground together if the cable has it. Now you should have the outside Drain/Ground, red, and white wires for the 3.5mm stereo cable. You should also have the outside drain/ground, red, white, green, and black on your micro USB cable. I started with applying heat shrink over the drain/ground for the 3.5mm stereo cable. Now solder the newly heat shrunk ground from the 3.5mm stereo cable to the wire that was going to pin 1or 2 (audio gnd) on your iPod cable. Now solder the red wire from the stereo cable to the wire from pin 3 (audio R). Then solder the white wire from the stereo cable to the wire from pin 4 (audio L). Now grab the micro USB cable. Cut the wires for the green and white wires from the micro USB to about an inch and solder them together. This will all the phone to charge at full A/C not at USB. Then solder the red wire to the wire going to pin 23 (+5 VDC). Next solder the black wire to the wire from pin 16 (USB gnd). Last solder the drain/ground from the iPod cable to the drain/ground of the micro usb.
3.5mm Stereo cable-
Red- Pin 3 (audio R)
White- Pin 4 (audio L)
GND- Pin 1or 2 (audio GND)
Micro USB-
Red- Pin 23 (+5 VDC)
Black- Pin 16(USB GND)
White-Green(Solder together for A/C charging)
Drain/GND(USB)- Drain/GND(iPod)
I ended up cutting the wires to about 2 inches total length before soldering and applied heat shrink over all the solders then a larger heat shrink over the whole place where all the splices took place. I also staggered the splices to make that area as small as possible. I should have taken pictures but didn’t. If/when I make another one I will take pics.
Sent from The Rezound using xda premium
I would purchase!
I've seen people make these before they are pretty neat
Sent from my Dinc... I mean Rezound
Is the rezound incapable of Line Out over usb?
Only thing I have ever been able to do over USB on any android phone is mass storage. So if you have any songs on your device you can sync through USB mass storage and use the controls to select your song on your device. But to do anything streaming, you can't do it through USB. Also if your using it as a mass storage device I believe it only charges at .5A. Doing it this way you can charge at 1A and still use all your music services including beats audio.
soooooo.... where can i buy one?
I haven't made anymore yet. If/when I do you will be first on my list. Maybe next week I could get to it. Kinda busy with work(50+ hours a week right now) and the kids baseball.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda premium
thatsricci said:
soooooo.... where can i buy one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Google it ... Like I have said I have seen them being sold
Sent from my Dinc... I mean Rezound
I made it because I found one for $30! I made it for cheaper than that. It took like 30mins to make.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda premium
dpiddy14 said:
I just finished making this cable. It's a female iPod connector that splits to micro USB and 3.5 mm headphones plug. I was tired of everyone making just iPhone compatible stereos but never giving ever other phone a way of charging without a separate wall charger. If they have a iPod dock they could easily put USB on the device also. Anyway here are the pics of the first prototype I made. Works flawlessly and charges as A/C.
View attachment 1037288
View attachment 1037290
Sent from The Rezound using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have one made by motorola but it doesn't work with my Rezound. Any advice?
mpalatsi said:
I have one made by motorola but it doesn't work with my Rezound. Any advice?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What doesn't work about it? Maybe a couple pics.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda premium
dpiddy14 said:
What doesn't work about it? Maybe a couple pics.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's actually for omap4 Motorola car docks. That cable won't even charge a moto phone if not docked.
However..
It charges my gnex but no audio cause Samsung phones are designed to activate dock mode by a resistor in the cable itself.. Gotta love our fragmented Android universe
Dude, this is awesome! I am totally going to make one of these.
Thanks for sharing the information!
I bought one of these..... http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Adapter-iPhone-30-Pin-DocksFemale/dp/B005HZJ2MK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1348774751&sr=8-5&keywords=3.5mm+to+ipod+adapter
Keep in mind that it only plays and does not charge like the cable the OP made.
Does anyone know if this will let you change tracks with the dock device or car stereo?
chuckdizzle03 said:
Does anyone know if this will let you change tracks with the dock device or car stereo?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It won't.
Hello all,
I have the following problem: The USB connector side of the standard charger cable for my TF101G is damaged beyond repair. The wall wart is fine.
In my naivity I bought the standard USB adapter (namely this: http://www.amazon.com/Transformer-T...INXQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1336838294&sr=8-6 ) believing that a "standard" USB Type A male -- male cable to connect the adapter to the wall wart will do the trick.
After finding it doesn't I browsed (quickly...) this thread http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1087321 . It seems that the adapter is using some different wiring...
I tried this with both USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 (male - male) cable between the wall wart and the USB adapter to no avail.
Question is simple: Can I use the adapter I bought -- via some easy modding of the USB cables if needed -- to charge the tablet (and keyboard) ? Or I simply need to buy another charger ?
Thanks,
Florian
No, the pins used for charging is not in use on the adapter.
You can quite easily fix your cable though, if the 40-pin connector is still intact. Its just 4 (ok, 5 actually) wires.
If its only part of the cable thats broken, you can just cut the cable and then cut a USB3 cable and solder them together. red to red, black to black, white to white etc... the 2nd red wire is supposed to be attached to pin7 of the usb3 cable. I dont know the color of that though.
The wall wart outputs 15 VDC @ 1.2 Amps when the TF is detected. If not, it will output the standard USB 5 VDC @ 2.0 Amps. Any voltage less than 11 VDC will not show the tablet charging.
A USB port (5 VDC @ 0.5 Amps) will charge with the screen off at a rate of 3% per hour.
An iPad charger (5 VDC @ 2.0 Amps) will charge with the screen off at a rate of 10% per hour.
If you are looking for a charger, it will have to output between 12 and 16 VDC across pin 1 and 4 of a USB connector.
You can make your own, or try to find one. Dynex makes one, or you can check some stores. ASUS sells them online, as do some other vendors. Depending on where you are located some users may be able to help you find one.
There is plenty of info on the forum on DIY chargers and such. Here is one thread:
So you can only trickle charge without ASUS charger?
or you can just build your own pc usb charger (see link in my sig)
Thats my charger just went tits up aswell. 3 days of gtee left! Tried freezer but no joy. Looks like its outputing something by the indicator on the tf itself but % still drops, dock indicator light doesnt come on.
Cables ok as pc installed drivers etc when connected.
scottyf79 said:
Thats my charger just went tits up aswell. 3 days of gtee left! Tried freezer but no joy. Looks like its outputing something by the indicator on the tf itself but % still drops, dock indicator light doesnt come on.
Cables ok as pc installed drivers etc when connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like mine... it refuses to send 15v anymore, it only sends 5v.
Im going to rip mine apart, when I get some free time, and see if bridging the connections will help kick it into 15v mode again.
Goatshocker said:
No, the pins used for charging is not in use on the adapter.
You can quite easily fix your cable though, if the 40-pin connector is still intact. Its just 4 (ok, 5 actually) wires.
If its only part of the cable thats broken, you can just cut the cable and then cut a USB3 cable and solder them together. red to red, black to black, white to white etc... the 2nd red wire is supposed to be attached to pin7 of the usb3 cable. I dont know the color of that though.
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Click to collapse
Welll...Tbh I'm not so sure I want to take the knife to an USB 3.0 cable....
If you look at the attached pics of the (damaged) connector you'll see the Red & Orange cable (still) soldered to Pin 1, the Shielding was (seemingly) connected to Pin 4, while on the other side (the "top" of the connector -- see 2nd pic) i have the Yellow Wire... well, not sure where ...Shielding ? Also, unclear where this yellow wire goes..
Anyway. My "problem" is that
1) Bought the USB adapter in vein (stupid, $45 mistake). Anyway, lesson learned.
2) I still isn't clear to me on what wire has to go where on the USB 3.0 side and I don't really want to take risks in frying any part (the tablet or the wall wart...)
Thanks anyway. Still looking for alternatives / safe way to reconnect this...
Florian
scottyf79 said:
Thats my charger just went tits up aswell. 3 days of gtee left! Tried freezer but no joy. Looks like its outputing something by the indicator on the tf itself but % still drops, dock indicator light doesnt come on.
Cables ok as pc installed drivers etc when connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not to throw a wrench in the works here, but I have a cable that installs drivers and functions just fine when connected to computer, but will not charge from either of the two wall adapters I own. Another cable I have will work with both adapters.
TF101 Megatron 1.0.4 Guevor test 17c
I bought one of these 2m cables from ebay and they work fine, you may find cheaper but this one does work and its longer that the original which is a bonus.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110837341306&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160
Edit :- I also have a 3m USB3 cable which I can use as an extention to the existing cable (or the 2m one above) so I can sit quite a way from the plug socket without a problem.
Spot of luck.....Asus tf came in to my store to get sent back for repair. So my tf is now happily getting a charge from the borrowed adaptor until ups pick it up
My charger was picked up yesterday and is currently tracked to Germany. Just as a tip for anyone - rma your tf yourself! Don't take it to the retailer to do it......Asus are hopeless with the retailers and seem to think its OK just to string it along knowing the retailer will take the flack.
pyro254750 said:
Not to throw a wrench in the works here, but I have a cable that installs drivers and functions just fine when connected to computer, but will not charge from either of the two wall adapters I own. Another cable I have will work with both adapters.
TF101 Megatron 1.0.4 Guevor test 17c
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Spot on m8. It was the cable. Charger was returned back to me today. Really good service despite the bad rma experiences for others.
Does anyone know where you can get a us outlet snap on plug for the stock charger? I just traded for a tf101 and one of the prongs is broken..
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
same problem
My kids did tear my cable and I have the white, yellow and green wires to reconnect. Is your sequence right? ?I mean is yellow connected to pin 7/15 volt contact?
Regards
FlorianO said:
Welll...Tbh I'm not so sure I want to take the knife to an USB 3.0 cable....
If you look at the attached pics of the (damaged) connector you'll see the Red & Orange cable (still) soldered to Pin 1, the Shielding was (seemingly) connected to Pin 4, while on the other side (the "top" of the connector -- see 2nd pic) i have the Yellow Wire... well, not sure where ...Shielding ? Also, unclear where this yellow wire goes..
Anyway. My "problem" is that
1) Bought the USB adapter in vein (stupid, $45 mistake). Anyway, lesson learned.
2) I still isn't clear to me on what wire has to go where on the USB 3.0 side and I don't really want to take risks in frying any part (the tablet or the wall wart...)
Thanks anyway. Still looking for alternatives / safe way to reconnect this...
Florian
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wiring diagram
I drawed a wiring diagram for usb cable.
*****thecenk.wordpress.com/2013/03/03/usb-3-0-data-charger-cable-for-asus-eeepad-tf101-tf201-sl201-wiring-diagram/***
thecenk said:
I drawed a wiring diagram for usb cable.
*****thecenk.wordpress.com/2013/03/03/usb-3-0-data-charger-cable-for-asus-eeepad-tf101-tf201-sl201-wiring-diagram/***
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Click to collapse
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So here is my plan, and I just wanted to run it by anyone who might be more tech-savy out there than me.
My plan is this (or see graphic)…. To Hard wire a USB charging cable into my vehicles electrical system. (All hidden under the dash) I mainly want to go this route because in the end, the biggest part of this fabrication would be the size of my pinky finger and cost me a total of like $4 for the fuse tap since i have the rest.
So what I will be doing it, taking a Mini (ATM) Fuse Tap and plugging it into the already present radio fuse slot. I’ll then wire the 12v Output of the fuse tap to the input of a 5v Regulator. I’ll ground the regulator to some random metal surface. Then I’ll wire the 5v Output on the regulator to the positive line of a cut USB-A to Micro USB cord. I’ll short out the USB cord’s data wired so the phone thinks it’s charging with AC power and pull the full mA. I’ll ground the negative of the USB cord to the ground post of the voltage regulator and call it a day.
I have considered an alternate route to this…Which would be similar in being that I would use a fuse tap and add in an additional AUX Charging Socket to that line, and adding something small like a giffin USB charger to the Charging Socket, followed by the USB cord. But I am inquisitive and experimental (as long as I can make sure it’s safe first) lol. So I want to give this way a try before I do that one.
Attached it a picture for easier explanation.
[URL="http://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/de-sw050”]5v Regulator[/URL]
Fuse Tap
2a Fuse
USB Cable
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Sounds interesting, but I would go the second route with wiring in an aux cig lighter power port to plug in a small sized USB adapter. Lots of 12v sources under the dash and you could put this anywhere, and run a usb cord from it.
Question, why not just use the cig lighter that is already in your car?
Because what I want to do is get a window mount for the phone and mount it, then also supply a power cord to be used only for that mount. I don't want a cord strung across my dash, so I'm going the build a new power source and stuff it under the dash method. Plus I still want the full functionality of my pre existing aux port.
Sent from my HTC DNA.
Oh hi! MECP certified car installer here. Why not just buy a car charger and a second power socket, fuse the positive to a constant or accessory source, and ground the negative to a good source of metal, then plug in and tape up the two pieces? The way you're doing it is way too messy and complicated
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda app-developers app
I must say that I agree with bigred on this one. Sounds like a great learning experience/project. Sometimes, because one way is simpler, doesn't necessarily mean it is the correct way to do it. Bigreds idea seams to be a cleaner final product, with more secure connections. My .02.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda premium
trickster2369 said:
I must say that I agree with bigred on this one. Sounds like a great learning experience/project. Sometimes, because one way is simpler, doesn't necessarily mean it is the correct way to do it. Bigreds idea seams to be a cleaner final product, with more secure connections. My .02.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I broke down and built one. Works out pretty good and provides a steady 5v of what appears to be clean power.
ROFLsplash said:
Oh hi! MECP certified car installer here. Why not just buy a car charger and a second power socket, fuse the positive to a constant or accessory source, and ground the negative to a good source of metal, then plug in and tape up the two pieces? The way you're doing it is way too messy and complicated
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda app-developers app
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Some people might think that it is messy and complicated, but i find it easily customizable (contrary to messy, and not complicated).
I have done this type of thing in most every rig I've had over the past 10 years, about 4 or 5 I think. I have two reasons for doing it, one is to reduce clutter from the cable across the dash and the other is to leave the existing 12v outlet available for passengers/guests/other accessories.
I would agree with most of the other comments here about installing another 12v socket under the dash. This is what I do, I actually put two under there, leaving one open for future applications. This is more versatile and can be adapted to future devices more easily. All you have to do is plug in the necessary car charger under your dash and run the cable through the defrost vents and to the car dock. I just got done doing this with my wireless car dock in my service truck, new GMC 2500HD, worked out great and I still have two free outputs, one for guests and one for my laptop charger.
But, to each their own and if you already have the necessary parts as you mentioned, then why not. I'm certain that mine cost a lot more than $4 to setup. $9 for the double 12v outlets and $10 for the Palm car charger with usb cord(they push a full amp for fast charge) and I guess $2 for shrink tube and connectors.