So here is my plan, and I just wanted to run it by anyone who might be more tech-savy out there than me.
My plan is this (or see graphic)…. To Hard wire a USB charging cable into my vehicles electrical system. (All hidden under the dash) I mainly want to go this route because in the end, the biggest part of this fabrication would be the size of my pinky finger and cost me a total of like $4 for the fuse tap since i have the rest.
So what I will be doing it, taking a Mini (ATM) Fuse Tap and plugging it into the already present radio fuse slot. I’ll then wire the 12v Output of the fuse tap to the input of a 5v Regulator. I’ll ground the regulator to some random metal surface. Then I’ll wire the 5v Output on the regulator to the positive line of a cut USB-A to Micro USB cord. I’ll short out the USB cord’s data wired so the phone thinks it’s charging with AC power and pull the full mA. I’ll ground the negative of the USB cord to the ground post of the voltage regulator and call it a day.
I have considered an alternate route to this…Which would be similar in being that I would use a fuse tap and add in an additional AUX Charging Socket to that line, and adding something small like a giffin USB charger to the Charging Socket, followed by the USB cord. But I am inquisitive and experimental (as long as I can make sure it’s safe first) lol. So I want to give this way a try before I do that one.
Attached it a picture for easier explanation.
[URL="http://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/de-sw050”]5v Regulator[/URL]
Fuse Tap
2a Fuse
USB Cable
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Sounds interesting, but I would go the second route with wiring in an aux cig lighter power port to plug in a small sized USB adapter. Lots of 12v sources under the dash and you could put this anywhere, and run a usb cord from it.
Question, why not just use the cig lighter that is already in your car?
Because what I want to do is get a window mount for the phone and mount it, then also supply a power cord to be used only for that mount. I don't want a cord strung across my dash, so I'm going the build a new power source and stuff it under the dash method. Plus I still want the full functionality of my pre existing aux port.
Sent from my HTC DNA.
Oh hi! MECP certified car installer here. Why not just buy a car charger and a second power socket, fuse the positive to a constant or accessory source, and ground the negative to a good source of metal, then plug in and tape up the two pieces? The way you're doing it is way too messy and complicated
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda app-developers app
I must say that I agree with bigred on this one. Sounds like a great learning experience/project. Sometimes, because one way is simpler, doesn't necessarily mean it is the correct way to do it. Bigreds idea seams to be a cleaner final product, with more secure connections. My .02.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda premium
trickster2369 said:
I must say that I agree with bigred on this one. Sounds like a great learning experience/project. Sometimes, because one way is simpler, doesn't necessarily mean it is the correct way to do it. Bigreds idea seams to be a cleaner final product, with more secure connections. My .02.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I broke down and built one. Works out pretty good and provides a steady 5v of what appears to be clean power.
ROFLsplash said:
Oh hi! MECP certified car installer here. Why not just buy a car charger and a second power socket, fuse the positive to a constant or accessory source, and ground the negative to a good source of metal, then plug in and tape up the two pieces? The way you're doing it is way too messy and complicated
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some people might think that it is messy and complicated, but i find it easily customizable (contrary to messy, and not complicated).
I have done this type of thing in most every rig I've had over the past 10 years, about 4 or 5 I think. I have two reasons for doing it, one is to reduce clutter from the cable across the dash and the other is to leave the existing 12v outlet available for passengers/guests/other accessories.
I would agree with most of the other comments here about installing another 12v socket under the dash. This is what I do, I actually put two under there, leaving one open for future applications. This is more versatile and can be adapted to future devices more easily. All you have to do is plug in the necessary car charger under your dash and run the cable through the defrost vents and to the car dock. I just got done doing this with my wireless car dock in my service truck, new GMC 2500HD, worked out great and I still have two free outputs, one for guests and one for my laptop charger.
But, to each their own and if you already have the necessary parts as you mentioned, then why not. I'm certain that mine cost a lot more than $4 to setup. $9 for the double 12v outlets and $10 for the Palm car charger with usb cord(they push a full amp for fast charge) and I guess $2 for shrink tube and connectors.
Related
The Expansys web site describes the Flyer as having a "standard micro-USB" connector.
The Flyer I have just unboxed and put on charge came with a micro-USB connector which was different even from the usual, half-squared off, HTC connector. This one has a cut-away at the top and (in a different axis) at the bottom.
I tried one of my older HTC USB connectors (Athena, Hero), but it resisted and I didn't want to force the issue, so the Flyer is charging on the connector it came with.
But is this for real? Have HTC changed the "standard" micro-USB for something propriety?
Devany said:
The Expansys web site describes the Flyer as having a "standard micro-USB" connector.
The Flyer I have just unboxed and put on charge came with a micro-USB connector which was different even from the usual, half-squared off, HTC connector. This one has a cut-away at the top and (in a different axis) at the bottom.
I tried one of my older HTC USB connectors (Athena, Hero), but it resisted and I didn't want to force the issue, so the Flyer is charging on the connector it came with.
But is this for real? Have HTC changed the "standard" micro-USB for something propriety?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes and no. It is a proprietary connector but microUSB cables still fit in the device. I've charged from a PC already and it works fine, although its SUPER SLOW.
/Linked images, hope they work./
A: Flyer "standard micro-USB", note the cut-away on the top.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
B: standard micro-USB cable, note the straight top.
Plug B will not fit socket A.
Devany said:
B: standard micro-USB cable, note the straight top.
Plug B will not fit socket A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is not a microUSB cable. It is a MiniUSB cable which is vastly different and does not fit in the flyer.
Thanks, but...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Usb_connectors.JPG
Not a one there has a cut-away.
Nice thing about standards... there are so many of them.
Also, tried Google/Images for "micro usb" and all the various mini and micro usb cables I have. Not one of them has this propitiatory shape.
Have you got a link to something authoritative?
PS: Cooks? What's wrong with cooks? Do you mean crooks?
That is why I said yes and no. It is a propriatary connector that also allows for connection with microUSB. If you are familar with HTC devices many of their winmo devices had miniUSB Ext connectors which were propriatary but allowed for a regular miniusb connector to connect to it. That was before the microUSB standard was made.
Flyer Port
Plugged into the PC
Connected to standard microUSB
Charging status
S
Devany said:
Thanks, but...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Usb_connectors.JPG
Not a one there has a cut-away.
Nice thing about standards... there are so many of them.
Also, tried Google/Images for "micro usb" and all the various mini and micro usb cables I have. Not one of them has this propitiatory shape.
Have you got a link to something authoritative?
PS: Cooks? What's wrong with cooks? Do you mean crooks?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The micro-usb connector is the far left connector in your Wikidpedia link, the one you're holding / trying is the 3rd connector from the left which is a mini-usb.
Here are some pics with a generic sony ericsson mini-usb.
Sorry for the bad pics from my phone... and sorry for the duplicate pics... someone beat me to the upload.
f' I get it now.
Better get me some of these...
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/level5/module.jsp?moduleId=cpc/548876.xml
Thanks
The port/connector is desined to stop you using the mains charger with other devices as it would "fry" them! This is why you can use a micoUSB connector with the Flyer.
Are you suggesting that if I used a micro to mini converter that I could fry the Flyer?
My issue is that I have several (proper, branded) HTC car chargers which have mini-usb connectors - which I used for the X7500/Athena.
A converter would mean I don't have to replace these chargers.
But the voltages would be the same, wouldn't they? USB current/voltages don't change depending on the cable... do they?
Hi
To buy a charger wouldn't cost much, but I use my gf blackberry charger on my dhd I thought it was battery that drew the charge.....
Sent from my HTC Flyer P510e using XDA App
The Flyer white mains adaptor is designed to stop you using it with another device. But you can use a standard micro usb with the Flyer port. I hope this is clear.
Sent from my HTC Flyer P510e using XDA Premium App
Devany said:
Are you suggesting that if I used a micro to mini converter that I could fry the Flyer?
My issue is that I have several (proper, branded) HTC car chargers which have mini-usb connectors - which I used for the X7500/Athena.
A converter would mean I don't have to replace these chargers.
But the voltages would be the same, wouldn't they? USB current/voltages don't change depending on the cable... do they?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can use normal chargers on the Flyer, it'll just be slower. That's why their power adapter is different and much more potent for faster charging. And as Jah says, if you were to use the Flyer's charger with a phone it would most likely fry it as the phone isn't designed to handle those power levels (ergo the different plug, making it impossible to connect the flyer's adapter to another, incompatible, device).
The flyer has 12pin micro usb not 5pin to be used for hdmi output same like the in the htc incredible and htc sensation
Meh...I've tried three different micro-USB cables including an HTC variant from my Mozart, and although they sort of fit, none seem to go in far enough to charge or sync. Weird.
.
Need to get this sorted ASAP.
The reason the Flyer has a 'Unique' micro-USB socket is that the charger is 1.5 AMPS. (And is a HDMI output)
This provides enough current for heavy use and charge at the same time.
Do not expect a standard micro-USB to charge your Flyer if you are using it, it will infact drain the battery!
A standard micro-USB cable will charge your Flyer if it is connected to a minimum 1Amp plug charger overnight and the Flyer is not in use.
Do not expect a Flyer to charge from a 500mA PCLaptop USB socket whilst you are using it!
Remember guys, this is much bigger than a mobile phone and even some of them would not correctly charge from a PC/Laptop USB.
Use your mains charger to charge it every night (or as much as possible) to keep it from going below 20%.
Do not expect it to charge from the sync cable (until we get 3rd party dual usb source cables as for some DVD writer drives).
THEN you will keep the life in your battery.
Soz for the bold font but wanted to get the message across.
twisticles said:
Meh...I've tried three different micro-USB cables including an HTC variant from my Mozart, and although they sort of fit, none seem to go in far enough to charge or sync. Weird.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried 3 or 4 different Micro-USB sync cables or chargers, and every one works. They plug in "upside-down" from how the plug goes into most Micro-USB devices that I am familiar with. Meaning, the spring-loaded prongs/teeth on the male plug should be facing down (if your Flyer is on a table, screen up), and you insert the male end in the lower "half" of the Flyer's port. Both sync and charge work.
A generic micro-usb will power and charge the Flyer. I use my laptop while traveling to accomplish this. When its charging, I'm usually not using it... I'm asleep.
redpoint73 said:
They plug in "upside-down" from how the plug goes into most Micro-USB devices that I am familiar with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ah...oops
twisticles said:
ah...oops
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't feel bad. I was making the same mistake, and don't know if I would have even figured it out, if I hadn't come on here and read about it. I didn't want to force it, or do anything that might damage the port, so I don't know if I would have thought to turn it upside-down on my own.
I just made my own "car dock" cable based on the information over the "Fun with resistors" thread.
Basically I have a cable with a micro-usb connector that switch my phone to "car dock" mode, audio via usb/aux and charging.
CHECK THE 2ND POST FOR UPDATES, PICTURES AND A QUICK VIDEO.
WARNING:
This cable can physically damage/destroy your phone if made incorrectly.
If you don't have experience soldering electronics and small parts maybe you should not try this.
The usb cable will NOT work for sync/data - just charging.
I'm not responsible if you damage or destroy your phone/property and/or injury yourself or others.
Use this instructions at your own risk.
Parts that I used:
micro usb male connector (Digi-Key pn: 609-4051-ND)
619K ohm resistor (Digi-Key pn: RNF14FTD619KCT-ND)
6ft 3.5mm Stereo Plug/Plug M/M Cable (MonoPrice.com pid: 644)
1.5ft USB 2.0 A Male to Micro 5pin Male 28/28AWG Cable (MonoPrice.com pid: 5137)
I should have used a longer cable but that's what I had at home
This is the pin-out for the usb connector:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Preparations:
1) Cut one of the aux cable connectors and expose the 3 wires:
Yellow = common ground
White = right channel
Red = left channel
The left/right channel may be inverted, test on your phone before you make the cable.
2) Cut the micro usb connector from the usb cable and expose the 4 wires:
Red = +5vcc
Black = ground
Green = not used
White = not used
Soldering:
Start with the audio cable:
Solder left channel wire to pin 2
Solder right channel wire to pin 3
Do NOT solder the ground wire yet
Now with the usb cable:
Solder red wire wire to pin 1
Do NOT solder the ground (black wire) yet
With the resistor:
Solder 1 resistor leg to pin 4
Solder the other resistor leg + audio ground (yellow wire) + usb ground (black wire) to pin 5
Almost done...
Test all the connections for short-circuit with a digital multimeter
Triple check for the right cable on the right place, you don't want to put that +5vcc on the wrong pin, it will fry your phone!
Just finish it with some epoxy glue to make sure the cables won't break where you soldered them and some shrink tube for a polished finish.
You must go to Settings > Dock Settings > Audio output mode and enable it to have the audio-out working.
I will post pictures next week when I will make a new cable with longer usb and better finish.
The cable I have now works fine, it's just ugly...
I hope this info will be useful for someone
Thanks to TheBeano for the info about the resistors
* * U P D A T E * *
( a . k . a . v e r s i o n 2 . 0 )
Hello all!
Thank you to all the people who rated this thread and enjoyed the info
After building my first cable from two different cables and finishing it up with some epoxy putty I started searching for a better and easier way to build this cable.
While searching on some Chinese accessories website I've found an iPhone USB/aux cable that would make this build easier and nicer.
This is the USB/aux cable from DealExtreme.com (item #34654):
From eBay I got this micro-usb connector with a "housing" (link):
The resistor is the same from the original post:
With this parts in hand I started by taking the iPhone connector apart:
With the soldering iron I removed the connector and with an blade I removed the cable "terminator"(?) so I could expose more wire and use my own "terminator"(?):
Using a multimeter and my "pro-mod" I was able to verify the cables and plugs.
All cables matched so I started soldering:
After checking for short-circuits and fixing the mistake I always make (I invert left and right channels) it was time to squeeze everything inside that tiny housing:
It looks nice but now let's test it:
Pictures are worth 1,000 words but a video is priceless (don't mind the music):
Great write up!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using xda premium
Nice write up. Very useful. Thanks
Awesome, gunna order some of these parts.
Exactly What I Wanted
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for!! Once I see a picture/video of it in action, I'll get the parts. Question is, are you going to make your own car dock for it? Or are you going to purchase a generic dock? I'd like something that I can slide the phone into easily (and have the phone be horizontal). I am curious about the possibility of getting Digital Audio out instead of Analog. You seem to be the expert, do you think that's possible? Thanks!
I'm 95% certain digital audio out is not possible, except maybe for MHL/HDMI audio output via the MHL adapter.
There just aren't any provisions for it.
Thanks guys for the replies!
I got some PM about selling the cable. Right now I can't do it as I don't have enough time to make a good and durable cable.
The cable I have is kinda put together with epoxy putty and some shrink tubes.
Today I tested the cable and it works fine on my car.
I just found some iPod/iPhone cable that I think can make this build be easier and faster, basically you will change the apple connector for the micro-usb and add the resistor. I still waiting for the parts to arrive to test this new idea.
As Entropy512 said digital audio isn't possible with this setup but I will look in to it in the future to see if it's possible to use the mhl adaptor just for the audio.
Tomorrow I will post the pictures and a small video from it working with my current cable.
Thanks once again for the replies!
This is awesome thanks!! If you can create a few of these I would definitely be in for buying one. I am hoping to replace my itouch in the car with the phone. I already have a nice dock thus just need a cable.
LGSilva said:
Thanks guys for the replies!
I got some PM about selling the cable. Right now I can't do it as I don't have enough time to make a good and durable cable.
The cable I have is kinda put together with epoxy putty and some shrink tubes.
Today I tested the cable and it works fine on my car.
I just found some iPod/iPhone cable that I think can make this build be easier and faster, basically you will change the apple connector for the micro-usb and add the resistor. I still waiting for the parts to arrive to test this new idea.
As Entropy512 said digital audio isn't possible with this setup but I will look in to it in the future to see if it's possible to use the mhl adaptor just for the audio.
Tomorrow I will post the pictures and a small video from it working with my current cable.
Thanks once again for the replies!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So digital audio out is not possible (that's kinda what I figured). But what about getting a USB->Digital Audio Out? I realize the kernel would have to support a device like this. I'm very new to the Android scene (less than a week). But I'd think that it would be possible. I can't post links yet, but it was a $25 USB->SPDIF device on Amazon. The reason I'm asking is that I'd like a way to eliminate the "road noise" (alternator noise) from my music.
And how are you controlling your music in your car? Do you have a remote for the phone? Bluetooth? Or are you doing it the "old fashioned way". LoL! Thanks again for your efforts!
Jim
CNLiberal said:
So digital audio out is not possible (that's kinda what I figured). But what about getting a USB->Digital Audio Out? I realize the kernel would have to support a device like this. I'm very new to the Android scene (less than a week). But I'd think that it would be possible. I can't post links yet, but it was a $25 USB->SPDIF device on Amazon. The reason I'm asking is that I'd like a way to eliminate the "road noise" (alternator noise) from my music.
And how are you controlling your music in your car? Do you have a remote for the phone? Bluetooth? Or are you doing it the "old fashioned way". LoL! Thanks again for your efforts!
Jim
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can use MHL->HDMI adapter then put in a HDMI->Digital audio converter to get the digital audio out without any modification to software. MonoPrice.com has both but I believe the later requires some external AC power.
I have an official Samsung car dock for my Captivate. After reading OP's post, I decided to mod that car dock. I stripe out the part that connects to Captivate USB port and contains microUSB socket for power and 3.5mm audio jack (it already has the required resisitor inside). Now all I need is some 5-wire microUSB male to female extension cable. This kind of cable is hard to come by but do exist.
I did some reading in the 'fun with resistors' thread, and while this mod looks to work, I'm worried about the lack of sufficient charging amperage. It seems that in order to do "high current charging" you need to short pins 4 and 5 on the micro USB plug. Well, those are in use by the audio output. This seems to be a _major_ design flaw in MHL. So basically, you'd have to turn off anything you don't need (WiFi primarily, maybe Bluetooth if you don't want integrated hands-free with your car's head-unit) in order to get an actual charge. So maybe this cable with a Tasker function to turn off those services and activate your Car Home app.
Please take what I say with a grain of salt. Again, I'm very new to Android and I'm probably wrong.
CNLiberal said:
I did some reading in the 'fun with resistors' thread, and while this mod looks to work, I'm worried about the lack of sufficient charging amperage. It seems that in order to do "high current charging" you need to short pins 4 and 5 on the micro USB plug. Well, those are in use by the audio output. This seems to be a _major_ design flaw in MHL. So basically, you'd have to turn off anything you don't need (WiFi primarily, maybe Bluetooth if you don't want integrated hands-free with your car's head-unit) in order to get an actual charge. So maybe this cable with a Tasker function to turn off those services and activate your Car Home app.
Please take what I say with a grain of salt. Again, I'm very new to Android and I'm probably wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The device assumes that a proper high-current supply is present when a dock or MHL ID resistor is detected.
---------- Post added at 01:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:01 PM ----------
CNLiberal said:
So digital audio out is not possible (that's kinda what I figured). But what about getting a USB->Digital Audio Out? I realize the kernel would have to support a device like this. I'm very new to the Android scene (less than a week). But I'd think that it would be possible. I can't post links yet, but it was a $25 USB->SPDIF device on Amazon. The reason I'm asking is that I'd like a way to eliminate the "road noise" (alternator noise) from my music.
And how are you controlling your music in your car? Do you have a remote for the phone? Bluetooth? Or are you doing it the "old fashioned way". LoL! Thanks again for your efforts!
Jim
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In theory, I believe the device has USB Host/USB OTG support - but I know very little about enabling it. It MIGHT be possible to get USB sound cart to sort-of work - but getting the phone to route audio to the "new" interface would be extremely difficult.
I used to deal with Digikey decades ago .....
Are they selling "onesies" of parts now or do you have to buy multiples?
The items that I've listed you can buy just 1.
They have other items where the minimum order is 5000.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using xda premium
Mouser is usually a bit better about minimum order quantity though - I think digikey improved over the years in that regard.
Usually Mouser has their quantity price breaks earlier.
Entropy512 said:
Mouser is usually a bit better about minimum order quantity though - I think digikey improved over the years in that regard.
Usually Mouser has their quantity price breaks earlier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mouser sells singles.
Sent from my Samsung SGH-I897 using XDA Premium
Stevenrogers_420 said:
Mouser sells singles.
Sent from my Samsung SGH-I897 using XDA Premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know that - that's why I've always preferred them. But I think digikey has improved so that they're closer to Mouser for small quantity orders now.
Going to try this later this week, should be awesome if it works!
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App
bunnybash said:
Going to try this later this week, should be awesome if it works!
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can confirm this works.. just finished building it tonight and functions fine.
Have fun!
This guide is based on [GUIDE] The $6 way to charging your EEE Pad on your computer, taken one step further.
DISCLAIMER! YOU DO THIS ON YOUR OWN RISK! IF YOU SCREW SOMETHING UP ITS NOT MY FAULT!
This guide will show you how you can charge your TF101 from the PC, while also have it connected through USB allowing you to sync etc just as you normally would.
Its possible this method also works on the TF201, but I dont know for sure.
Difficulty: Pisseasy
Parts and tools needed:
A female molex connector with the yellow(+12v) and black(ground) wire. Where you get it from doesnt matter. I stole mine from an old pci-e -> molex adapter.
Headphone extension cord (or any other 2-wire cable you can use as a connector)
USB extension cord (2.0 works fine, no need to get a 3.0)
Tape (or if youre not as lazy as me - a soldering iron)
Teeth (or a wire-stripper/cutter)
Carpet knife or similar
Multimeter, not necessary but recommended to check if the power is correct before hooking it up to your tablet.
Ok, lets get started!
Id like to apologize for the rather vague images. I took them after I had actually built the cable.
Grab the male end of the headphone extension cord and cut it, leaving a bit of cable (I left around 20cm)
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Next, grab the USB Extension cord.
I wish I had a better picture for this, but its not that tricky. What you want to do is remove the cover around the shielding, remove the shielding and exposing the 4 wires.
Once thats done, cut the red and black wires, leave the green and white.
Strip the red and black wires going towards the female end of the extension cord.
Connect the white and red wire from the male audio extension cord to the red and black wire on the usb extension cord. I suggest you attach red to red, white to black. It doesnt matter much though, but do remember how you connect them.
If done correctly you should end up with something similar as the picture.
Grab your favorite roll of tape and secure the wires and you should end up with this
Gratz, the first part is complete! Now to steal some power from the PC.
Grab the remaining part of the audio extension cord, which should contain the female connection.
Grab your molex connector (In the picture, I have already stolen one of the molex connectors)
Now, strip the yellow and black wire on the molex connector, and strip the red and white cable on the female audio cord.
Connect them the same way you did with the usb cable (if you followed my example, yellow goes to red, black goes to white).
Excuse my extremely dusty PC... Im ashamed :x
this might be a good part to route the molex-female audio cable inside the PC so it reaches outside.
Once thats done, simply hook the molex connector up to a free connector in your PC
And finally, grab your usb-male audio cable, connect the male audio with the female audio and plug the usb end into a free usb port.
Finally! Hook up your original TF101 usb cable to the female end of the USB cord and enjoy being able to charge your tablet while transfering files!
WARNING! Do NOT connect anything but the TF to this cable. 12v will fry any normal USB device.
Troubleshooting:
If your tablet does not react when you connect it, you have most likely gotten the polarities wrong. Simply switch the place of either red/black on the usb cable, or yellow/black on the molex connector (this is where a multimeter is handy).
There are many ways of doing this, I chose to do it like this because I had an audio extension cord lying around, and I wanted to be able to detach the cable from the PC.
Basically all you have to do is cut the red and black wire from the usb cable, and hook them up to the 12v rail on your PC instead of the 5v rail USB is running on.
How you chose to do this is, in the end, up to you.
Additionally, if you replace the audio jacks with some other more standard DC plug, you could use this cable to charge your TF using any DC adapter that provides 12-15V.
Once I get a USB Extension Kit for my TF, Im going to try to add a charging port to that as well. If I succeed in that, Ill post another guide covering that.
If you found this guide useful, hit 'thanks'
I'll try it when I'll have the time =) Nice tutorial!
It's just stupid I can't see the images..
DerSandmann said:
It's just stupid I can't see the images..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Son of a.... Youre right... Ill fix it...
edit: Pictures should work now.
Heres a "benchmark", or whatever you want to call it, showing roughly how fast the tablet charges.
Note that the screen was turned on all the time, and I used it occasionally.
It does indeed charge slower than the real wall-charger, but thats not strange considering theres a 3V difference.
The wall charger charges an equal amount in roughly 1:30h, during the same usage.
Edit: I forgot to mention, if you use this method you can extend the charging cable easily by just hooking up an addition audio extension cable
Do beware of voltage drops though, the cables aint exactly thick. My cable is around 4m total, and I get a voltage drop of ~0.5v from the molex to the female usb plug.
I tried this and got to the extention cable section, I totally butchered my usb extension cable and gave up since I don't have another. Great guide though! I just can't cut and splice without completly failing and breaking things -_-
Thing O Doom said:
I tried this and got to the extention cable section, I totally butchered my usb extension cable and gave up since I don't have another. Great guide though! I just can't cut and splice without completly failing and breaking things -_-
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats where
Goatshocker said:
Parts and tools needed:
....
Teeth (or a wire-stripper/cutter)
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
comes in ;D
Dont know how you managed to butcher the cable though , you just need to strip 2 wires (or 4, if you decide its easier to cut the white and green too), and wire them together.
So, i've seen a few pics of the dongle both assembled and disassembled... my question: if i disassemble my dongle and plug it into my dock can i use it? Physically it looks like it would fit, im just wondering if it will function... any ideas?
Edit:
To avoid confusion, i want to go [Prime] -> [Dock] -> [GPS]
The dock has both a male AND female connection.
Aparently it does not function as of yet, might be software? What pins are being used on the gps and what pins get passed through on the dock? If were lucky its just a software thing, or maybe it requires some pins to get passed to the dock connector.
We had the first person who opened up said it didn't work when he plugged it into the dock. The pin layout might be different or could be a software thing. If a software issues, developers here should be able to modify the file path or whatever that the GPS software in prime looks at. Instead of looking for dongle at the prime 40pin connector, maybe it could be rerouted to the dock 40pin connector. Or software change that'll detect either and link it up accordingly.
Plug it in to your keyboard dock you mean?
>i disassemble my dongle and plug it into my dock can i use it?
Mating connectors use the male-female concept. Tablet plugs into dock, so one is male, the other is female. Dongle plugs into tab, so it is opposite gender of tab, and same gender as dock. Ergo, dongle can't plug into dock, coz like-gendered connectors can't mate.
---------- Post added at 02:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:09 AM ----------
BTW, for those who want to mod toys at the chip level, might as well get well acquainted with your soldering iron. Little bitties in dongle means SMT fun. Contrary to popular belief, you can do SMT stuff w/o fancy tools. A vid primer, then:
e.mote said:
>i disassemble my dongle and plug it into my dock can i use it?
Mating connectors use the male-female concept. Tablet plugs into dock, so one is male, the other is female. Dongle plugs into tab, so it is opposite gender of tab, and same gender as dock. Ergo, dongle can't plug into dock, coz like-gendered connectors can't mate.
---------- Post added at 02:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:09 AM ----------
BTW, for those who want to mod toys at the chip level, might as well get well acquainted with your soldering iron. Little bitties in dongle means SMT fun. Contrary to popular belief, you can do SMT stuff w/o fancy tools. A vid primer, then:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But doesn't the dock also have another 40pin female connector on the side of it? This is how it gets charged with the prime power adapter that has 40pin male adapter on the end. Plus someone who opened it up already said they plugged it into the dock but it wouldn't work.
I know what you saying about like gender adapters not being able to mate but I believe the dock has a male adapter, to go into the prime for dock connection, and another female adapter on it so it can be charged at the same time.
demandarin is correct, the dock does in fact have both a male connection to connect to the prime and a female connection which the power adapter connects to.
Guess i would have to look into if the dock passes through all the pins or just a select few, however data at least should work, i connect my computer to my prime through the dock all the time to transfer files (instead of undocking the prime and connecting that way)
Edited the first post to include information thus far.
>But doesn't the dock also have another 40pin female connector on the side of it? This is how it gets charged with the prime power adapter that has 40pin male adapter on the end.
If the port is only used for charging, there'd be no data lines going to it. There's no reason to daisy-chain the charging connector to the docking connector. If you want to do that, then you'd have to figure out the pin-out. Even then, the odds of something going poof is still pretty good. This ventures into the territory of "if you have to ask, then the answer is no." It's not a good idea.
If you want working GPS and working dock at same time, ditch the dongle and go with active GPS antenna mod for the built-in GPS. It's simpler and more straightforward. If you're good, you may be able to have an inset port for the MCX connector and have nothing sticking out. Not sure if there's enough space to do that, though, so you may have a slight nub sticking out.
Also, the fact that you can't turn off the dongle is another issue with a Daisy chain solution
e.mote said:
>go with active GPS antenna mod for the built-in GPS. It's simpler and more straightforward.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you talking about the beer can mod with wire or did I miss a thread along the way.
>Are you talking about the beer can mod with wire or did I miss a thread along the way.
I'm talking about an aftermarket GPS antenna like these below. You'll need to mount a SMA or preferably a smaller MCX port, then jerry-rig some power for the "active" antenna (because GPS signal is weak, it needs an amp to compensate for signal loss, which needs power). Come to think of it, since cable length isn't excessive, you can try a passive ant and see what happens. The key is to get the antenna element outside of the metal case, and replacing the crappy internal PFA one. The connector is intended for quick-on/off use.
http://google.com/products?q=active+gps+antenna+mcx
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
For further info,
https://google.com/search?q=gps+antenna+mod
e.mote said:
>But doesn't the dock also have another 40pin female connector on the side of it? This is how it gets charged with the prime power adapter that has 40pin male adapter on the end.
If the port is only used for charging, there'd be no data lines going to it. There's no reason to daisy-chain the charging connector to the docking connector. If you want to do that, then you'd have to figure out the pin-out. Even then, the odds of something going poof is still pretty good. This ventures into the territory of "if you have to ask, then the answer is no." It's not a good idea.
If you want working GPS and working dock at same time, ditch the dongle and go with active GPS antenna mod for the built-in GPS. It's simpler and more straightforward. If you're good, you may be able to have an inset port for the MCX connector and have nothing sticking out. Not sure if there's enough space to do that, though, so you may have a slight nub sticking out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The port isn't just used for charging on the dock. I can plug the USB to the dock with my tablet attached and can transfer data fine.
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
kwazytazz said:
The port isn't just used for charging on the dock. I can plug the USB to the dock with my tablet attached and can transfer data fine.
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No but the 40 pin on the dock may well just be used for charging .. data may be connected to the SD/USB sub board
Deffo needs more investigation .. tempting indeed !
I just finished making this cable. It's a female iPod connector that splits to micro USB and 3.5 mm headphones plug. I was tired of everyone making just iPhone compatible stereos but never giving ever other phone a way of charging without a separate wall charger. If they have a iPod dock they could easily put USB on the device also. Anyway here are the pics of the first prototype I made. Works flawlessly and charges as A/C.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Tutorial
How to make an iPod dock cable
The first thing I did was buy these 3 cables.
An iPod dock extension cable http://www.ebay.com/itm/30069026148...NX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_2757wt_698 ,
an 3.5mm stereo cable http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...d=10218&cs_id=1021802&p_id=644&seq=1&format=2 ,
and a micro usb cable http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=4868&seq=1&format=2 . I then cut the iPod dock cable in half. Set the female end to the side. I opened up the male end to verify the color of the wiring to which pin they were attached to. What you need is 5 wires from the iPod dock connector. You need is the wires for either pin 1 or 2( audio GND) , pin 3(Audio R) , pin 4 (Audio L) , pin 16(USB GND), and pin 23 (USB +5VDC).
Now that you know what colors you need from the male end of the iPod connector, strip back about 4 inches of the outside jacket on the female ends cable you set aside. What I did was twist the outside drain/ground mesh together then separate the 5 wires you need from the cable. I then took the remaining wires put them in a line and cut them on a diagonal starting at about an inch. This way each wire is shorter than the next. Now twist them back together and put a piece of heat shrink over them. Now you should have the outside drain/ground and the 5 other wires left. Now cut the other 2 cables however long you want them . I made the 3.5 mm cable about 8 inches longer because it has to reach the top of your phone and the micro USB goes only to the side. Now strip back about 4 inches of the outside jacket of the other 2 cables. Do the same think and twist the outside drain/ground together if the cable has it. Now you should have the outside Drain/Ground, red, and white wires for the 3.5mm stereo cable. You should also have the outside drain/ground, red, white, green, and black on your micro USB cable. I started with applying heat shrink over the drain/ground for the 3.5mm stereo cable. Now solder the newly heat shrunk ground from the 3.5mm stereo cable to the wire that was going to pin 1or 2 (audio gnd) on your iPod cable. Now solder the red wire from the stereo cable to the wire from pin 3 (audio R). Then solder the white wire from the stereo cable to the wire from pin 4 (audio L). Now grab the micro USB cable. Cut the wires for the green and white wires from the micro USB to about an inch and solder them together. This will all the phone to charge at full A/C not at USB. Then solder the red wire to the wire going to pin 23 (+5 VDC). Next solder the black wire to the wire from pin 16 (USB gnd). Last solder the drain/ground from the iPod cable to the drain/ground of the micro usb.
3.5mm Stereo cable-
Red- Pin 3 (audio R)
White- Pin 4 (audio L)
GND- Pin 1or 2 (audio GND)
Micro USB-
Red- Pin 23 (+5 VDC)
Black- Pin 16(USB GND)
White-Green(Solder together for A/C charging)
Drain/GND(USB)- Drain/GND(iPod)
I ended up cutting the wires to about 2 inches total length before soldering and applied heat shrink over all the solders then a larger heat shrink over the whole place where all the splices took place. I also staggered the splices to make that area as small as possible. I should have taken pictures but didn’t. If/when I make another one I will take pics.
Sent from The Rezound using xda premium
I would purchase!
I've seen people make these before they are pretty neat
Sent from my Dinc... I mean Rezound
Is the rezound incapable of Line Out over usb?
Only thing I have ever been able to do over USB on any android phone is mass storage. So if you have any songs on your device you can sync through USB mass storage and use the controls to select your song on your device. But to do anything streaming, you can't do it through USB. Also if your using it as a mass storage device I believe it only charges at .5A. Doing it this way you can charge at 1A and still use all your music services including beats audio.
soooooo.... where can i buy one?
I haven't made anymore yet. If/when I do you will be first on my list. Maybe next week I could get to it. Kinda busy with work(50+ hours a week right now) and the kids baseball.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda premium
thatsricci said:
soooooo.... where can i buy one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Google it ... Like I have said I have seen them being sold
Sent from my Dinc... I mean Rezound
I made it because I found one for $30! I made it for cheaper than that. It took like 30mins to make.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda premium
dpiddy14 said:
I just finished making this cable. It's a female iPod connector that splits to micro USB and 3.5 mm headphones plug. I was tired of everyone making just iPhone compatible stereos but never giving ever other phone a way of charging without a separate wall charger. If they have a iPod dock they could easily put USB on the device also. Anyway here are the pics of the first prototype I made. Works flawlessly and charges as A/C.
View attachment 1037288
View attachment 1037290
Sent from The Rezound using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have one made by motorola but it doesn't work with my Rezound. Any advice?
mpalatsi said:
I have one made by motorola but it doesn't work with my Rezound. Any advice?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What doesn't work about it? Maybe a couple pics.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda premium
dpiddy14 said:
What doesn't work about it? Maybe a couple pics.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's actually for omap4 Motorola car docks. That cable won't even charge a moto phone if not docked.
However..
It charges my gnex but no audio cause Samsung phones are designed to activate dock mode by a resistor in the cable itself.. Gotta love our fragmented Android universe
Dude, this is awesome! I am totally going to make one of these.
Thanks for sharing the information!
I bought one of these..... http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Adapter-iPhone-30-Pin-DocksFemale/dp/B005HZJ2MK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1348774751&sr=8-5&keywords=3.5mm+to+ipod+adapter
Keep in mind that it only plays and does not charge like the cable the OP made.
Does anyone know if this will let you change tracks with the dock device or car stereo?
chuckdizzle03 said:
Does anyone know if this will let you change tracks with the dock device or car stereo?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It won't.