Hi,
I have disassembled my Folio 100.
Here are the pictures of the internal:
http://www.makhutov.org/downloads/folio100/pix
DerArtem said:
Hi,
I have disassembled my Folio 100.
Here are the pictures of the internal:
h t t p :// w w w. makhutov.org/downloads/folio100/pix
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But, why?!
Is there a simcard slot inside? Im wondering if our Folio is hardware, or software limited to use a simcard.
Regards
statsminister said:
But, why?!
Is there a simcard slot inside? Im wondering if our Folio is hardware, or software limited to use a simcard.
Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is just a place on the PCB for a sim-card slot and also a mini-pcie connector for a mini-pcie datacard, but the parts are not soldered to it.
I don't know if it is possible just to solder the connectors to make it work...
moved to device specific sub-forum on OP request
Best, DK
DerArtem said:
There is just a place on the PCB for a sim-card slot and also a mini-pcie connector for a mini-pcie datacard, but the parts are not soldered to it.
I don't know if it is possible just to solder the connectors to make it work...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interessting, do you think it would be possible to mount the LCD upside down? Because i think viewing angles would be better then (like holding the Folio upside down)?
Where's the RAM memory slot?
bastospn said:
Where's the RAM memory slot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The RAM is soldered directly on the PCB next to the CPU. You can see it for example on picture BILD2363.JPG. On the other side of the PCB (Picture BILD2387.JPG) is space to solder additional RAM chips.
Nemo0815 said:
Interessting, do you think it would be possible to mount the LCD upside down? Because i think viewing angles would be better then (like holding the Folio upside down)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if the LCD cables are long enough. But even if so you must then adjust the software. Otherwise the picture will also always be upside down. The better way would be to replace the LCD completely with a different one.
it´s posible to change the camera??
The one think i will change is the LCD and possible add some ram! I don't think it will work though.
Regards,
Bastospn
bastospn said:
The one think i will change is the LCD and possible add some ram! I don't think it will work though.
Regards,
Bastospn
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think that adding RAM is possible. There might be not all parts soldered to be able to solder additional RAM. Even if so soldering so small pins is really hard.....
fenixxx said:
it´s posible to change the camera??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This should be possible. It looks like it is a standard USB UVC webcam. But you will also have to adjust the software in order to get the new webcam working.
Do you have some images of the connector of the LCD controller? Also, the Touch panel and LCD should be separated, right? (Can't see that on your pictures)
Nemo0815 said:
Do you have some images of the connector of the LCD controller? Also, the Touch panel and LCD should be separated, right? (Can't see that on your pictures)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not done a dedicated photo of the connector but you can see it on BILD2355. The brown "box" is the touch screen controller and the cable below is for the LCD. It looks like a LVDS interface.
I think it's a great idea to dismount the device. I'd actually dismount the back cover to see the battery and the sim card slot.
I'll post pictures of it later.
Doumaster said:
I think it's a great idea to dismount the device. I'd actually dismount the back cover to see the battery and the sim card slot.
I'll post pictures of it later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude... (rofl)
Hi DerArtem
Is you device still working after you opened it and made all these pictures?
I did them same so my Folio 100 to see what's inside, but after assembling it again, the display didsn't work anymore. The device still boots up, I can use it on an external TV (via HDMI) and also the touch screen still works, it just doesn't display anything anymore. Any idea what this could be (and if I could get it repaired somewhere)?
regards,
Mark (NL)
Sure you connect everythink in place? I don't see how it could be broken if you just open the plastic case and remove same screws.
bastospn said:
Sure you connect everythink in place? I don't see how it could be broken if you just open the plastic case and remove same screws.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am afraid that one of the cables that connecto the display with the mainboard was jammed and maybe damaged. It could also be the FFC-cable which has been under some stress (not the cable itself, but the side that entered the connector).
The screen is being connected to the mainboard by 3 cables. A round cable with a board-to-board connector (I'm afraid one of the wires of this one has been damaged), a small FPC connector (flexible PCB) connected with FPC-connector (this one is ok) and a FFC(foil) cable, where I saw that the copper on the edge was damaged. I cut of 1mm of the cable to let the connector grip a little further on the cable, but this didn't help.
So... either the electronics on the display is damaged, but I think it probably is one of the cables connecting the display with the PCB.
Just hope I can get it to work again...
Try to re-fit the cables, if it doesn't work pull the cables one by one and test it against a multimeter. Be carefull not to damage it even further.
Allways connect yourselt to the ground (touch a piece o metal will do the trick ) to avoid static discharges on components.
You can try to send it back to Toshiba, but I am not sure it they will aceppted under guaranty.
If you don't have spares it could be real hard to do troubleshooting. Toshiba (and other manufactures too) will replace the entire parts suspected to be faulty and will charge for it, so if you could do it on your own you will save some bucks.
Good luck!
Related
Please help, I miss my tablet.I had the common problem with the power thingy inside the tablet going out so i opened it to solder but did not fix.So i ordered the charging dock and waited for a month and a half.I get it today and was so excited to only plug it it and got power and charging everything is perfect,i go to swipe over on my arrow to unlock the screen and nothing!I have no touch controls on screen what so ever.But the soft keys work,they do not do me any good but they work.The home key takes me to my home page and mag glass goes to the internet.Does any body have any ideas of what could have happened or what i can do to fix this,please????
alcapone1130 said:
Does any body have any ideas of what could have happened or what i can do to fix this,please????
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First, check for disconnected or loose cables inside the gTab.
Next, if it isn't a HW fault like loose cables, then connect the USB cable to the gTab and run this ADB command (you will have to install and set up ADB if you haven't already done so):
Code:
C:\SOME\PATH> [B]adb shell "echo -n 1 > /sys/devices/platform/tegra_touch/calibration"[/B]
Digitizer Cable/Connection
alcapone1130 said:
Please help, I miss my tablet.I had the common problem with the power thingy inside the tablet going out so i opened it to solder but did not fix.So i ordered the charging dock and waited for a month and a half.I get it today and was so excited to only plug it it and got power and charging everything is perfect,i go to swipe over on my arrow to unlock the screen and nothing!I have no touch controls on screen what so ever.But the soft keys work,they do not do me any good but they work.The home key takes me to my home page and mag glass goes to the internet.Does any body have any ideas of what could have happened or what i can do to fix this,please????
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The attached pdf contains photos of the digitizer/cables and their connections inside the gtab. Check for loose connection and/or broken wires on both ends.
Al
aabbondanza said:
The attached pdf contains photos of the digitizer/cables and their connections inside the gtab. Check for loose connection and/or broken wires on both ends.
Al
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok,First thank you so much for helping.Ok,One of the cables you shown does have two broken wires,it is the kind of short wire with black cloth like material over it that runs unde the shiny brown plastic piece.Is there a way to fix that or rig it to get me back up and touching again?Thank you again for helping me out,and you already pinpointed my problem,now i am hoping you can fix it,lol.
Where is the break?
alcapone1130 said:
Ok,First thank you so much for helping.Ok,One of the cables you shown does have two broken wires,it is the kind of short wire with black cloth like material over it that runs unde the shiny brown plastic piece.Is there a way to fix that or rig it to get me back up and touching again?Thank you again for helping me out,and you already pinpointed my problem,now i am hoping you can fix it,lol.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assume since you didn't send in under warranty for the power connector that it's no longer under warrantly!
Exactly where is the break? Close to (or at) one of the connectors? Which end (motherboard end or digitizer end) of the cable? Obviously closness to the connector makes it more difficult. I have seen a post where another use had the break pretty close to the connector & fixed it though.
Al
I totally forgot that i made a youtube video yesterday,here is the address http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFNRtDhr5EQ I have been so stressed out about getting my gtab back it slipped my mind.Oh, the broken end is what plugs under the silver area not under the brown area.
aabbondanza said:
I assume since you didn't send in under warranty for the power connector that it's no longer under warrantly!
Exactly where is the break? Close to (or at) one of the connectors? Which end (motherboard end or digitizer end) of the cable? Obviously closness to the connector makes it more difficult. I have seen a post where another use had the break pretty close to the connector & fixed it though.
Al
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I totally forgot that i made a youtube video yesterday,here is the address http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFNRtDhr5EQ I have been so stressed out about getting my gtab back it slipped my mind.Oh, the broken end is what plugs under the silver area not under the brown area.
alcapone1130 said:
I totally forgot that i made a youtube video yesterday,here is the address http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFNRtDhr5EQ I have been so stressed out about getting my gtab back it slipped my mind.Oh, the broken end is what plugs under the silver area not under the brown area.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you magnify the digitizer circuit (lower photo in the pdf) you will see the label for each of the lines in the cable. Assuming the lines run straight thru, it looks like the ones that broke are the power & ground to the circuit (VSS & GND). That would explain the touch screen not working at all.
Hard to tell from the video where the breakis, but it looks real close to the connector.
Your best bet may be looking for someone who has a broken digitizer (outer glass) or gTab and is selling it for parts. I looked in the Marketplace forum here on XDA & there is one non working gtablet someone is asking $55 for. I also saw another one up for bid on ebay ($40 latest bid). You my have to ask if the cable is good on them.
Not a whole lot of options for repair. As you've already experienced, the cable is small & fragile.
If the connector has removable pins then you could remove the pins, solder the wire to it & reinsert the pins, BUT from the picture it doesn't look like they are removeable.
You could solder the 2 wires to the pins coming out the back of the socket but they look too small to easily solder to.
The last option would be to rigg the cable to work. There are a couple of possibilites but I would rather you consider the other options before suggesting a repair of the cable itself. If you can, see if you can take a closeup, high res photo of the back fo the connector where the wire broke. PM me & I'll send you my email address to send it too.
Al
aabbondanza said:
If you magnify the digitizer circuit (lower photo in the pdf) you will see the label for each of the lines in the cable. Assuming the lines run straight thru, it looks like the ones that broke are the power & ground to the circuit (VSS & GND). That would explain the touch screen not working at all.
Hard to tell from the video where the breakis, but it looks real close to the connector.
Your best bet may be looking for someone who has a broken digitizer (outer glass) or gTab and is selling it for parts. I looked in the Marketplace forum here on XDA & there is one non working gtablet someone is asking $55 for. I also saw another one up for bid on ebay ($40 latest bid). You my have to ask if the cable is good on them.
Not a whole lot of options for repair. As you've already experienced, the cable is small & fragile.
If the connector has removable pins then you could remove the pins, solder the wire to it & reinsert the pins, BUT from the picture it doesn't look like they are removeable.
You could solder the 2 wires to the pins coming out the back of the socket but they look too small to easily solder to.
The last option would be to rigg the cable to work. There are a couple of possibilites but I would rather you consider the other options before suggesting a repair of the cable itself. If you can, see if you can take a closeup, high res photo of the back fo the connector where the wire broke. PM me & I'll send you my email address to send it too.
Al
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow,Thank you so so much,Can you get me in contact with the guy with the gtab for $55.00,i will buy it and transfer the cash to him immediately,that sounds like the best bet.I will msg you a really good photo still,incase i can not get my hands on the one for sale,but if i can let him know or maybe you could let him know that i will buy it quick enough maybe i can end up with it.I would really feel better just swapping the cable out with another.I will talk back with you tomorrow and again thank you for your time and great help,i really owe you.
Marketplace & Non Working Tab Links
alcapone1130 said:
Wow,Thank you so so much,Can you get me in contact with the guy with the gtab for $55.00,i will buy it and transfer the cash to him immediately,that sounds like the best bet.I will msg you a really good photo still,incase i can not get my hands on the one for sale,but if i can let him know or maybe you could let him know that i will buy it quick enough maybe i can end up with it.I would really feel better just swapping the cable out with another.I will talk back with you tomorrow and again thank you for your time and great help,i really owe you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here are several link for you
1. XDA Marketplace http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=1321
2. Link to "Wanting to sell" subformum where I found the non working gtab (used forum search for gtablet) http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=476
3. Link to not working gTab http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1436549&highlight=gtablet.
Take a look at this post & email him to make sure you want it.
Al
aabbondanza said:
Here are several link for you
1. XDA Marketplace http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=1321
2. Link to "Wanting to sell" subformum where I found the non working gtab (used forum search for gtablet) http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=476
3. Link to not working gTab http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1436549&highlight=gtablet.
Take a look at this post & email him to make sure you want it.
Al
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its amazing what a couple of stripped bread ties will doo,lol.I took a bread tie and stripped the paper off of it,cut it to the length I needed and wrapped the remaining wire to one end and pushed the other end of the tie inside the pin hole,lol.It worked like a champ! MY Grab has been up and running for over a month,I just knocked on my coffee table,lol.Thank you for helping me out I really appreciated you trying everything to help me.I am so happy to have it back,now if I can just figure out why I keep seeing black boxes on my games when I play them I will really be doing fine.Thank you again.
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that thing and cannot be use anymore. Now in the USB feeder of Archos just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (only 4 USB metal pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, it is bricked because of no battery power.
It is just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit. 3 times emailed [email protected] with no response as the world has suspected.
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if anyone can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
2. Can anyone share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
3. I've search this on thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557506, but the information provided on how to dismantle is not very clear.
4. Thankyou in advance.
cangguek said:
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that thing and cannot be use anymore. Now in the USB feeder of Archos just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (only 4 USB metal pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, it is bricked because of no battery power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uuups this is bad...
cangguek said:
It is just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit. 3 times emailed [email protected] with no response as the world has suspected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's sad that they did not reply, but do you think it is covered by warranty if your borked the USB connector?
cangguek said:
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if anyone can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's only a single screw at the back.
The housing is hold together by some plastic clamps and it is a pain to open the case (at least compared to a A101IT Gen8).
You really need some force and be very careful not to damage anything...
I'll post a few pics this week in a different thread, because i opened the device last week and it was little bit catchy
cangguek said:
2. Can anyone share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Usually this is not an easy task... at least for the unexperienced ones.
Be careful with the thin lines on that PCB.
To unsolder the connector you'll need a lot of heat because it is connected to the gorund plane of the mainboard.
Anyway i don't know the manufacturer, but i guess these MicroUSB connectors are all pretty similar.
So try to catch one, wherever it is sold.
cangguek said:
3. I've search this on thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557506, but the information provided on how to dismantle is not very clear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should start on the opposite side of the connectors and use some plectrums (used by guitar players) to lift off the plastic clamps.
As i said i'll prepare some pics...
EDIT: Here's an overview on how i opened the case.
As already stated it was a pain, and though i had been very careful, some tiny plastics got damaged.
The red circles mark the plastic clamps and the holes they were stucked in respectively.
The green arrows mark the direction i slided my guitar plectrum.
In between you'll have to use something like a screwdriver or putty knife to lift the clamps from their counterparts (this was the evil part).
In the end lift the top of the housing in the yellow direction.
Please take care of the flat cables of the TFT display, don't rip it off!!!
cangguek said:
4. Thankyou in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome!
scholbert
scholbert,
I don't know how should I thanks for your detailed information and photo on your reply.
Below my comment:
1. There is no abuse on the USB port (even no single scratch or dent to prove the abuse, from new I feel it is really tight when I connect the cable into the port, finally the plastic part comes out "cleanly" along with the USB cable connector when I unplug. That's way I try to bet the warranty honor...ray.
2. I've checked eBay and I find many type of micro USB port selling.
3. Based on the generous help you've written I will try to dismantle my Archos when I have spare time within this week.
4. If I may ask, for what purpose you dismantle your Archos. And did you find any problem something like not properly tight when you remantle it again?.
5. From the picture, are all the clamps just on the display side, or mix up and down between the base and display?. Appreciate if you can post the zoom picture of the clamp and the hole to know it's anatomy to make easier when pushing during dismantle process. I also seeing 4 screw-like holes on 4 corner, are they also something like alignment clamps without actual screw?.
6. Big thankyou again for your response.
cangguek said:
4. If I may ask, for what purpose you dismantle your Archos. And did you find any problem something like not properly tight when you remantle it again?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if i got a second edition device, but i realized this screen issue as well (pressure on the back causes effects on the display).
So i thought i may open it and try to solve this issue.
Anyway i always like to investigate on the construction of these devices...
cangguek said:
5. From the picture, are all the clamps just on the display side, or mix up and down between the base and display?. Appreciate if you can post the zoom picture of the clamp and the hole to know it's anatomy to make easier when pushing during dismantle process. I also seeing 4 screw-like holes on 4 corner, are they also something like alignment clamps without actual screw?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be exact, the clamps are located all on the base unit.
The display side got the holes for the clamps. I'll see if i could make a more detailed picture, to point you in the right direction.
Though i'm not sure if it helps.
The srew like holes you pointed at are for alignment only.
I also found some glue in the holes, but this is no problem.
Some words on seperation...
It worked out like this on the long side of the housing (upper and lower):
- I tried to seperate the display part and the base with the plectrum step by step
- tried to locate each clamp step by step
- then used a screwdriver
- tried to press gently against the clamp, direction outside to inside
(be very careful and the long side at the bottom, because of the display flex cable)
- then try to lift the parts more and more (it's terrible, but it works)
- keep an eye on the torsion of the display side
(seperate the parts too much, might crack the screen)
I guess i'll prepare some more pics...
Stay tuned!
scholbert
You are really a man god sent to me, thankyou so much. I'm really itching to do the job. First thing I will do once dismantle completed, is to wire two lines for temporary charging until the part I order arrive. If by any chance impossible to replace micro USB port, then I will make hole on the base for common round type DC charging port + and - only.
Hey cangguek,
as promised, here are some detailed views of the clamps (base unit) and holders (display side).
The are four holders in total with two holes each.
The holders are seperate parts and are mounted with three screws in the display part of the housing. Each holder fits into two clamps of the base unit.
Unfortunately they can only get disassembled after you managed to open the housing.
The edge of the clamps point to the border of the base unit housing.
So you may try to push them gently to the inside to release the mating part at the display side.
Anyway i hope things are clear enough now...
Some words on your idea of soldering a DC charging port:
Electrically this would work i guess, but there might be some driver issue which could prevent the unit from charging.
It depends on how the charger is identified by the software driver, which activates the charging process.
On some devices it is required to shorten the data lines of the usb connector, others use the id pin on the micro usb to detect wether a host pc or a wall charger is connected. I don't know how things are done on the Archos 80 G9.
I just wanted to point that out before you start soldering...
Good luck!!!
scholbert
scholbert said:
Some words on your idea of soldering a DC charging port:
Electrically this would work i guess, but there might be some driver issue which could prevent the unit from charging.
It depends on how the charger is identified by the software driver, which activates the charging process.
On some devices it is required to shorten the data lines of the usb connector, others use the id pin on the micro usb to detect wether a host pc or a wall charger is connected. I don't know how things are done on the Archos 80 G9.
I just wanted to point that out before you start soldering...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
-Data lines are not shorted, charging cable is a fully functional usb cable
-There must be something done to 4th (unused) pin in micro sd plug so device can detect Archos/"normal" cables (my guess- check data lines->if usb host not present check 4th pin->original=fast charge/3rd party=slow charge)
gen_scheisskopf said:
-Data lines are not shorted, charging cable is a fully functional usb cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i know that the data lines in the cable are not shorted.
AFAIK, they get shorted when connected to the wall charger.
I own a Milestone phone (which definitely requires the lines shorted for charging) and i successfully used the Archos wall charger to charge this device.
At least i wanted to point in this direction...
Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
scholbert
scholbert said:
Yeah i know that the data lines in the cable are not shorted.
AFAIK, they get shorted when connected to the wall charger.
I own a Milestone phone (which definitely requires the lines shorted for charging) and i successfully used the Archos wall charger to charge this device.
At least i wanted to point in this direction...
Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok
-data lines are shorted together in charger (not to gnd/vcc)
-that's strange but 4th pin seems not to be connected anywhere
sorry, left empty.
Dear scholbert,
All the process as you said really a devil. I am stuck here (at red arrow) and can not proceed unless I tear it with force. Seems there different clamps ?.
Now I am stopping the the job waiting your further help.
Thankyou for helping me:
cangguek said:
Dear scholbert,
All the process as you said really a devil. I am stuck here (at red arrow) and can not proceed unless I tear it with force. Seems there different clamps ?.
Now I am stopping the the job waiting your further help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i know it hurts... but AFAIK all the clamps are identical.
Nevertheless i realized the same during disassembly.
Some of the clamps did release quite well, at some point i also was afraid i'll break the device into pieces. I'm sorry but i guess you'll have to use gentle force to get it seperated.
BTW, i don't want to be responsible if you damage something
Another warning at this point:
I even did break some small plastics during opening (in the mainboard area), but it doesn't matter in the end, because there are many clamps to hold the parts in place
Good luck!
scholbert
Just to confirm the only screw I removed only the one under the stand stick, I hope I am not missing here. I am still not continuing dismantle process, but at least 40% of the casing has been opened.
cangguek said:
Just to confirm the only screw I removed only the one under the stand stick, I hope I am not missing here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, only one screw...
Regards,
scholbert
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
cangguek said:
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
someone needs to get out the old dustbuster
cangguek said:
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
View attachment 1057101 View attachment 1057102View attachment 1057103
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am happy to see these pictures as they confirm my suspicion. The usb charge port is only soldered on, no screws to hold it in place. That is not a proper mechanical construction and it is no winder it becomes disconnected with only a little use. I have sent 2 units back already which will no longer charge as the mount point has come loose. Number 3 broke too now and as they want me to pay for shipment again ( €50) I am thinking of fixing it myself in stead, but properly..
I have the same problem
Did you eventually repair this problem. If so were did you get the spare part. i have got the same problem. I think i might try returning to my supplier first.
Brilliant tips
scholbert said:
Uuups this is bad...
It's sad that they did not reply, but do you think it is covered by warranty if your borked the USB connector?
There's only a single screw at the back.
The housing is hold together by some plastic clamps and it is a pain to open the case (at least compared to a A101IT Gen8).
You really need some force and be very careful not to damage anything...
I'll post a few pics this week in a different thread, because i opened the device last week and it was little bit catchy
Usually this is not an easy task... at least for the unexperienced ones.
Be careful with the thin lines on that PCB.
To unsolder the connector you'll need a lot of heat because it is connected to the gorund plane of the mainboard.
Anyway i don't know the manufacturer, but i guess these MicroUSB connectors are all pretty similar.
So try to catch one, wherever it is sold.
You should start on the opposite side of the connectors and use some plectrums (used by guitar players) to lift off the plastic clamps.
As i said i'll prepare some pics...
EDIT: Here's an overview on how i opened the case.
As already stated it was a pain, and though i had been very careful, some tiny plastics got damaged.
The red circles mark the plastic clamps and the holes they were stucked in respectively.
The green arrows mark the direction i slided my guitar plectrum.
In between you'll have to use something like a screwdriver or putty knife to lift the clamps from their counterparts (this was the evil part).
In the end lift the top of the housing in the yellow direction.
Please take care of the flat cables of the TFT display, don't rip it off!!!
You're welcome!
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great tips & will add my own step by step as replacing my screen on G9 after it parachuted from 2 foot onto a rubber floor!!:good:
topsterdog said:
Great tips & will add my own step by step as replacing my screen on G9 after it parachuted from 2 foot onto a rubber floor!!:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be very interested in this and to learn where you bought the replacement screen...
I have an 80G9 with cracked screen and LCD and busted digitiser.
Sent from my ARCHOS 101G9
Guys, the microUSB port on my 101 G9 got broken by an accident.
Looks like It needs a resoldering (and due to double-sided main board it gonna cost some serious $). I removed the port entirely as I dont need PC connectivity.
Is it possible to solder a usb cable directly to BAT-/BAT+ points on the board? Or do I need to connect it to microUSB soldering points to work properly?
//sry for my bad english - I'm from Russia and got hella tired today(
Hi Devl547,
first: Your english is perfect, no need to worry.
Devl547 said:
Guys, the microUSB port on my 101 G9 got broken by an accident.
Looks like It needs a resoldering (and due to double-sided main board it gonna cost some serious $). I removed the port entirely as I dont need PC connectivity.
Is it possible to solder a usb cable directly to BAT-/BAT+ points on the board? Or do I need to connect it to microUSB soldering points to work properly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't attach the USB cable to the battery points on the mainboard. This will damage your mainboard and battery on long term.
Please look at the area around the broken MicroUSB port and search for a green colored component.
This is the fuse for the 5V comming from the port. You might easily find a soldering point in this area as well.
You should use this as the connection to your cable, nothing else!
If you are unsure, i'll post a picture.
Best regards,
scholbert
Thanks. Actually, I have already soldered a usb cable to microusb soldering points ( nightmare difficulty :3 ).
Looks like it works perfectly, but I think I'd better buy a new Archos tablet next month and use my old one indoor as a internet/video terminal.
Hi. Can you please upload a Picture from the Solder Points how i must solder the 4 wires from a USB Cable? Thank you very much!
scholbert said:
Hi Devl547,
(...)
If you are unsure, i'll post a picture.
(...)
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi scholbert!
If you still read this, I'd really appreciate that picture as my micro usb socket came loose and currently I can't charge my Archos G9 101 Turbo.
Thanks,
Nuems
Hi Nuems!
Nuems said:
If you still read this, I'd really appreciate that picture as my micro usb socket came loose and currently I can't charge my Archos G9 101 Turbo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm still using my Archos tablets, but i'll need to find my disassembled one to make a better picture i guess
Maybe you're able to locate the camera clip on your mainboard and remove it.
It is located near the micro USB slot...
See this post i made long ago (most informations are valid for the G9 101 as well):
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=28542261&postcount=41
After you removed the clip you should be able identify the fuse as well.
It is a marked component with a "T" on top.
As told before this is the best place to solder some cable for external charger.
Regards,
scholbert
Hi
i just got my Pipo M8 from Spemall.com
it look very good but i have some minor issues , questions :
1. can i calibrate the touch screen ? when the tabket is placed on the table the touch isnt working well
also the rotation doesnt always work .
2.the Battery status allways shows charging 99% , all the time it shows 100% even when its not connected to the wall , i left the tablet in stby mode over night and in the morning is was dead .The games are runing well also the sound is good
what can i do ?
do i need to replace the firmware ?
thanks
TK
Hi,
1. it doesn't seem we can calibrate the screen. Once in my hands, the tablet is working well, but on a flat support the touch screen isn't so reactive
2. leave your M8 plugged to DC one night and you'll calibrate the battery. I've done this and now when the battery is fully charged, the white light shut down, and the tablet indicates "battery charged".
I've had problems with charger : when I was using my tablet while it was charging, the DC connector moves a little, and the tablet stops charging. In fact, I've noticed the little plug was not fully in the tablet, so I've cut less than 1 mm of black plastic and now it stays fully in the tablet, even if I move it while using it.
Another issue : I'm still unable to use TF cards on this tablet. I've tried 2GB and 8GB microSD cards, none are recognized. When I use them with USB adapter + USB cable on the host port, they are recognized... Have you successfully used TF cards in the TF card port with your M8 ?
Pipo M8 Issues
PIPO M8 dosen't support 4gb or 8gb TF card it only supports 16GB and 32GB
1.my problem is when i charge my pipo m8 it goes absoulutly crazy!!
allanz2013 said:
PIPO M8 dosen't support 4gb or 8gb TF card it only supports 16GB and 32GB
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure ? PiPO hotliner did not told me that whereas we exchange many mails about that issue...
allanz2013 said:
1.my problem is when i charge my pipo m8 it goes absoulutly crazy!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what are the symptoms ?
Charging... known problem
allanz2013 said:
1.my problem is when i charge my pipo m8 it goes absoulutly crazy!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is because of very low quality charger supplied with PiPo. You should better throw it away and buy new, better one.
I've disassembled the tablet, and I've identified why the micro SD card does not work. Pins of the socket connector are to short to touch the Micro SD card, the connector is defective... I'm going to buy a new one and solder it instead of the old one.
ch-vox said:
I've disassembled the tablet, and I've identified why the micro SD card does not work. Pins of the socket connector are to short to touch the Micro SD card, the connector is defective... I'm going to buy a new one and solder it instead of the old one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
R u sure? It's a little tricky difficult to seal microsd on this tablet.
filakhtov said:
R u sure? It's a little tricky difficult to seal microsd on this tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not easy but it can be done without major difficulty.
Less than 5$ for this piece on eBay for instance : http://tinyurl.com/aee9y8j
Edit :
Finally that was a faulty little spring which was the cause of this problem. I've adjusted it and now the TF Card stay in front of the pins and Android is able to use the card ! great !!
filakhtov said:
This is because of very low quality charger supplied with PiPo. You should better throw it away and buy new, better one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what charger are you using and where can i buy them?
pipo m8 dissasemble
ch-vox said:
I've disassembled the tablet, and I've identified why the micro SD card does not work. Pins of the socket connector are to short to touch the Micro SD card, the connector is defective... I'm going to buy a new one and solder it instead of the old one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
how did you dissasembled it? can you make a tutorial
how thick or thin is the battery???
allanz2013 said:
how did you dissasembled it? can you make a tutorial
how thick or thin is the battery???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
- take your tablet from the rear side in one of the two round corners
- insert a nail in the round corner and pull off the corner
- then a thin plastic card, unlock each hook one by one along the edges
you'll find the mainboard, the batteries (that are approximately 2 or 3 mm thick), the connectors that are very roughly soldered, the logic board of the screen...
sorry for those poor pictures :
Brightness issue Pipo M8 3G
I've got Pipo M8 3G, and I have an issue with the screen brightness. When I dim the screen all the way down (minimum brightness) it starts to flicker (seems that lcd backlight flicker). It is very well visible on the white background (while browsing internet) and there is no problem if the brightness is set to more than 20%.
Has anyone got same problem, any solutions how to fix that
allanz2013 said:
what charger are you using and where can i buy them?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, what charger did you try and does it solve the touch screen issue when charging.
hi,
i am a proud g5 user who has now some troubles with his lg.
almost all 3 seconds my g5 discovers a usb wire conection and dismisses the messages after aproximate 1 second (sometimes later, and sometimes before) and this without a wire.
it happens after my mom sat on it and the usb port is now not as tight than before. i got a loose connection if i move the wire back, but that was it.
it wont charge corectly and get many disconects like the usb conection but inverted.
i opened the bottom module but the usb port is fine. there is some gloßy clear film on the pcb and the smal usb contacts. it havent a break, so i think its fine.
i was about to buy the hifi module but i want to ask bevore if the original module is the problem or if its something with the motherboard?
or if i can repair it by my self (reflashing ofw, the new bottom module etc)
if someone got a nice answer, please, answer asap o.o
thank you guys
and sorry about my crappy english, even in my mother language i am bad :X
cyrok said:
hi,
i am a proud g5 user who has now some troubles with his lg.
almost all 3 seconds my g5 discovers a usb wire conection and dismisses the messages after aproximate 1 second (sometimes later, and sometimes before) and this without a wire.
it happens after my mom sat on it and the usb port is now not as tight than before. i got a loose connection if i move the wire back, but that was it.
it wont charge corectly and get many disconects like the usb conection but inverted.
i opened the bottom module but the usb port is fine. there is some gloßy clear film on the pcb and the smal usb contacts. it havent a break, so i think its fine.
i was about to buy the hifi module but i want to ask bevore if the original module is the problem or if its something with the motherboard?
or if i can repair it by my self (reflashing ofw, the new bottom module etc)
if someone got a nice answer, please, answer asap o.o
thank you guys
and sorry about my crappy english, even in my mother language i am bad :X
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same issue on my sprint g5 i did the same cleaned the port took the chin apart everything was fine only thing i can productivly add that i have noticed is the hotter the device the worse it was for me.
Replace the bottom chin. Find the module that's correct to your device's model
ChristopherXI said:
Replace the bottom chin. Find the module that's correct to your device's model
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine done it with 2 different chins
TheMadScientist said:
Mine done it with 2 different chins
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well. The only possible problem now is the bottom PCB piece that make contact to the module. If it's cracked/bent then you have to replace the whole motherboard.
ChristopherXI said:
Well. The only possible problem now is the bottom PCB piece that make contact to the module. If it's cracked/bent then you have to replace the whole motherboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol I dont the one that was doing it is hard bricked from obviously failed test.
I checked it pretty good with a jewelers loop I thought it might be a crack from being put on and off so much but didnt see anything
I think it was in the firmware on mine once I downgraded to an older firmware it didnt do it
but i bricked it a day later it happend all the time and everyday though at least 5 times and hour
ChristopherXI said:
Replace the bottom chin. Find the module that's correct to your device's model
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for your replys, so you think its only the botton piece? i was about to change it with the hifi module. if i buy it its posible that the error disapears?
is it posible that the bottom pcb can shortcut (or so) so that the phone discharges faster?
it even wont fastcharg at all. even if the charge icon apears the phone doesnt load correctly...
forget to mention its the h850 (if i remember correctly)
cyrok said:
thanks for your replys, so you think its only the botton piece? i was about to change it with the hifi module. if i buy it its posible that the error disapears?
is it posible that the bottom pcb can shortcut (or so) so that the phone discharges faster?
it even wont fastcharg at all. even if the charge icon apears the phone doesnt load correctly...
forget to mention its the h850 (if i remember correctly)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You said that your mom sat on the phone. Like. On a sofa? Or a hard surface?
If the place your mom sat on the phone is soft like a bed or a sofa then probably the pressure has ben put on the end of the cable and the port itself. The type-c port has mini solders that connect to the pcb that breaks. So just try the Hifi plus module and test it out. If it's fast charging again then Replace the module only.
If the Hifi plus produce the same results (not fast charging/not charging correctly).If you are out of warranty coverage then you could try and take the phone apart and look for the PCB pieces at the bottom that connects to the module. If it's cracked/curved/bent then your motherboard has to be replaced. Hope that clears up for ya.
ChristopherXI said:
You said that your mom sat on the phone. Like. On a sofa? Or a hard surface?
If the place your mom sat on the phone is soft like a bed or a sofa then probably the pressure has ben put on the end of the cable and the port itself. The type-c port has mini solders that connect to the pcb that breaks. So just try the Hifi plus module and test it out. If it's fast charging again then Replace the module only.
If the Hifi plus produce the same results (not fast charging/not charging correctly).If you are out of warranty coverage then you could try and take the phone apart and look for the PCB pieces at the bottom that connects to the module. If it's cracked/curved/bent then your motherboard has to be replaced. Hope that clears up for ya.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the clear up ^^
sadly i buyed it for 180€ and dont know if its worth it to put much more money in it. the motherboard conectors are all fine, the usb-port isnt tight as before now, so i thought the same and riped the bottom module apart. the conector looks just fine to me, thats why i wonder and why i am not sure if a repair is worth it. I thought to solder it anew but its to fine. the pcb is coated with some gloßy stuff, and i think even if i get a hotair solderstation i cant repair it.
yes my mom sat on it while it was on my couch, she even didnt feel that it was there.
the hifi module costs 75€ and the back cover isnt all that nice (many damages in the alluminium) so i want to replace that to if its worth.
i saw today that it doesnt detects usb from pc, it detects itself(?). it says that the otg is used and want to get charged, so it opens the menu to change the usb options. for me it looks like a shortcut but i cant explain how this can happen if its only the type c port. is type c that easy to destroy? easyer than microusb? (i ask because its my first type c device)
thanks for your held and advice
cyrok said:
Thanks for the clear up ^^
sadly i buyed it for 180€ and dont know if its worth it to put much more money in it. the motherboard conectors are all fine, the usb-port isnt tight as before now, so i thought the same and riped the bottom module apart. the conector looks just fine to me, thats why i wonder and why i am not sure if a repair is worth it. I thought to solder it anew but its to fine. the pcb is coated with some gloßy stuff, and i think even if i get a hotair solderstation i cant repair it.
yes my mom sat on it while it was on my couch, she even didnt feel that it was there.
the hifi module costs 75€ and the back cover isnt all that nice (many damages in the alluminium) so i want to replace that to if its worth.
i saw today that it doesnt detects usb from pc, it detects itself(?). it says that the otg is used and want to get charged, so it opens the menu to change the usb options. for me it looks like a shortcut but i cant explain how this can happen if its only the type c port. is type c that easy to destroy? easyer than microusb? (i ask because its my first type c device)
thanks for your held and advice
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just go to a store and try a different module.
And i dont recommend the Hifi plus module.
Sure. The headphone jack is down at the bottom and the quality is better if you have the equipment and GIGANTIC music files.
You are using a H850. Just unlock your bootloader and get Viper4android. Save your money, like buying 2 modules for spares if your mother decides to sit on the phone again
Pretty sure the type c is better for the future. I mean. If a micro usb device falls into the same situation as yours then i don't think that the port might survive or replaceable as easy as the G5
ChristopherXI said:
Just go to a store and try a different module.
And i dont recommend the Hifi plus module.
Sure. The headphone jack is down at the bottom and the quality is better if you have the equipment and GIGANTIC music files.
You are using a H850. Just unlock your bootloader and get Viper4android. Save your money, like buying 2 modules for spares if your mother decides to sit on the phone again
Pretty sure the type c is better for the future. I mean. If a micro usb device falls into the same situation as yours then i don't think that the port might survive or replaceable as easy as the G5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you were right, it was the module. my mom buyed a new one on ebay.
and i dont want to unlock it and cfw it, the ofw is fine for me ^^ its like lg thougt about almost every thing, my z5 feels like trash when i operate it
oh, and i think type-c cables areent that easy to brake, against the micro usb i think the port will faster be damaged than the cable, unlike micro usb, and i think this could be a problem for me D:
oh and do you know if it transmit data in 3.0, 3.1 or only 2.0? i got to many diferent answeres
cyrok said:
you were right, it was the module. my mom buyed a new one on ebay.
and i dont want to unlock it and cfw it, the ofw is fine for me ^^ its like lg thougt about almost every thing, my z5 feels like trash when i operate it
oh, and i think type-c cables areent that easy to brake, against the micro usb i think the port will faster be damaged than the cable, unlike micro usb, and i think this could be a problem for me D:
oh and do you know if it transmit data in 3.0, 3.1 or only 2.0? i got to many diferent answeres
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The G5 is the same as the HTC 10
I the type c port on both of them are fully COMPLIANT to the Type-C standards.
But the Voltage on the charging line overrides the Type-C standards of 5 volts, but HTC and LG modifies it so it can go up above 5 volts
Other wise comparing the transfer rate between the my HTC one m8 and my LG G5, the G5 is definitely faster
ChristopherXI said:
The G5 is the same as the HTC 10
I the type c port on both of them are fully COMPLIANT to the Type-C standards.
But the Voltage on the charging line overrides the Type-C standards of 5 volts, but HTC and LG modifies it so it can go up above 5 volts
Other wise comparing the transfer rate between the my HTC one m8 and my LG G5, the G5 is definitely faster
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Jeah, my g5 is feeling faster, but i can be wrong.
What i mean is, if it uses the 3.0/3.1 standart, or uses the port the same like the huawei p10 (it uses 2.0)
I know that androids are way slower than an regular usb stick, but there is a cpu betwen the memory, also no direct writing.
That the one m8 slower is is strange, and that keeps my questioning.
(Urgh sry for typos im reLy not the best in english and autocorrect annoys too)
EDIT:
compliant means fully asigned pins, am i right?
cyrok said:
Jeah, my g5 is feeling faster, but i can be wrong.
What i mean is, if it uses the 3.0/3.1 standart, or uses the port the same like the huawei p10 (it uses 2.0)
I know that androids are way slower than an regular usb stick, but there is a cpu betwen the memory, also no direct writing.
That the one m8 slower is is strange, and that keeps my questioning.
(Urgh sry for typos im reLy not the best in english and autocorrect annoys too)
EDIT:
compliant means fully asigned pins, am i right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Compliant means it matches the Type-c standards