Related
Hi,
I have disassembled my Folio 100.
Here are the pictures of the internal:
http://www.makhutov.org/downloads/folio100/pix
DerArtem said:
Hi,
I have disassembled my Folio 100.
Here are the pictures of the internal:
h t t p :// w w w. makhutov.org/downloads/folio100/pix
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But, why?!
Is there a simcard slot inside? Im wondering if our Folio is hardware, or software limited to use a simcard.
Regards
statsminister said:
But, why?!
Is there a simcard slot inside? Im wondering if our Folio is hardware, or software limited to use a simcard.
Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is just a place on the PCB for a sim-card slot and also a mini-pcie connector for a mini-pcie datacard, but the parts are not soldered to it.
I don't know if it is possible just to solder the connectors to make it work...
moved to device specific sub-forum on OP request
Best, DK
DerArtem said:
There is just a place on the PCB for a sim-card slot and also a mini-pcie connector for a mini-pcie datacard, but the parts are not soldered to it.
I don't know if it is possible just to solder the connectors to make it work...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interessting, do you think it would be possible to mount the LCD upside down? Because i think viewing angles would be better then (like holding the Folio upside down)?
Where's the RAM memory slot?
bastospn said:
Where's the RAM memory slot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The RAM is soldered directly on the PCB next to the CPU. You can see it for example on picture BILD2363.JPG. On the other side of the PCB (Picture BILD2387.JPG) is space to solder additional RAM chips.
Nemo0815 said:
Interessting, do you think it would be possible to mount the LCD upside down? Because i think viewing angles would be better then (like holding the Folio upside down)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if the LCD cables are long enough. But even if so you must then adjust the software. Otherwise the picture will also always be upside down. The better way would be to replace the LCD completely with a different one.
it´s posible to change the camera??
The one think i will change is the LCD and possible add some ram! I don't think it will work though.
Regards,
Bastospn
bastospn said:
The one think i will change is the LCD and possible add some ram! I don't think it will work though.
Regards,
Bastospn
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think that adding RAM is possible. There might be not all parts soldered to be able to solder additional RAM. Even if so soldering so small pins is really hard.....
fenixxx said:
it´s posible to change the camera??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This should be possible. It looks like it is a standard USB UVC webcam. But you will also have to adjust the software in order to get the new webcam working.
Do you have some images of the connector of the LCD controller? Also, the Touch panel and LCD should be separated, right? (Can't see that on your pictures)
Nemo0815 said:
Do you have some images of the connector of the LCD controller? Also, the Touch panel and LCD should be separated, right? (Can't see that on your pictures)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not done a dedicated photo of the connector but you can see it on BILD2355. The brown "box" is the touch screen controller and the cable below is for the LCD. It looks like a LVDS interface.
I think it's a great idea to dismount the device. I'd actually dismount the back cover to see the battery and the sim card slot.
I'll post pictures of it later.
Doumaster said:
I think it's a great idea to dismount the device. I'd actually dismount the back cover to see the battery and the sim card slot.
I'll post pictures of it later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude... (rofl)
Hi DerArtem
Is you device still working after you opened it and made all these pictures?
I did them same so my Folio 100 to see what's inside, but after assembling it again, the display didsn't work anymore. The device still boots up, I can use it on an external TV (via HDMI) and also the touch screen still works, it just doesn't display anything anymore. Any idea what this could be (and if I could get it repaired somewhere)?
regards,
Mark (NL)
Sure you connect everythink in place? I don't see how it could be broken if you just open the plastic case and remove same screws.
bastospn said:
Sure you connect everythink in place? I don't see how it could be broken if you just open the plastic case and remove same screws.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am afraid that one of the cables that connecto the display with the mainboard was jammed and maybe damaged. It could also be the FFC-cable which has been under some stress (not the cable itself, but the side that entered the connector).
The screen is being connected to the mainboard by 3 cables. A round cable with a board-to-board connector (I'm afraid one of the wires of this one has been damaged), a small FPC connector (flexible PCB) connected with FPC-connector (this one is ok) and a FFC(foil) cable, where I saw that the copper on the edge was damaged. I cut of 1mm of the cable to let the connector grip a little further on the cable, but this didn't help.
So... either the electronics on the display is damaged, but I think it probably is one of the cables connecting the display with the PCB.
Just hope I can get it to work again...
Try to re-fit the cables, if it doesn't work pull the cables one by one and test it against a multimeter. Be carefull not to damage it even further.
Allways connect yourselt to the ground (touch a piece o metal will do the trick ) to avoid static discharges on components.
You can try to send it back to Toshiba, but I am not sure it they will aceppted under guaranty.
If you don't have spares it could be real hard to do troubleshooting. Toshiba (and other manufactures too) will replace the entire parts suspected to be faulty and will charge for it, so if you could do it on your own you will save some bucks.
Good luck!
Seems to be a perfect fit for the ASUS 40 pin connector.
Now we have to decide WHAT to make. I was thinking about a few items, but your suggestions needed.
Wheeeeeeee....
Note: There may be other places to get it, but this is the first place I found it.
Mouser Part #: 571-2129276-1
Manufacturer Part #:
2129276-1
Manufacturer:
TE Connectivity
Description: I/O Connectors 40P CABLE MNT PLUG CHAMP DOCKING
Stock: 1,070 Can Ship Immediately
Pricing (USD)
1: $3.49
10: $3.14
25: $2.85
100: $2.71
PS: These are very small connection points, so you need to have special soldering equipment (sub-mm tips).
Well, maybe start with USB Host?
My suggestions:
- USB-Hub like Soundsurfer said
- Infrared adapter to control your home cinema (i saw that the new sony tablet s has it built in. maye we can port the software?)
- DVB-t
greetings
SoundSurfer said:
Well, maybe start with USB Host?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great idea. I like it a lot.
I ordered a couple of these ACT4060 items:
ACT4060A SOP-8 ACT4060 Wide Input 2A Step Down
The idea is to take 15V from the tablet or charger and step down to 5V to power a USB hub, similar the the ASUS USB host device (same part).
I also thought to add a 5.5mm female barrel socket for charging with a 15V power supply, like these: Power Supply DC 15V
Note: Many other power supply are available from 12V-15V with 5.5mm barrel plug.
---------- Post added at 03:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:22 PM ----------
w04g005 said:
My suggestions:
- USB-Hub like Soundsurfer said
- Infrared adapter to control your home cinema (i saw that the new sony tablet s has it built in. maye we can port the software?)
- DVB-t
greetings
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great, thanks!
I do not think the HDMI output is on the 40 pin cable, but I could be wrong. There is audio available, because it is on the TF101 Desktop Stand.
Any links to an infrared control?
Bob Smith42 said:
Any links to an infrared control?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry,
i have no link for infrared control. I only have seen the video with infrared remote from the tablet s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tbYzckPXJ2Q&feature=player_embedded
But we can try to combine a standard usb infrared adapter with the 40-pin connector. Maybe it doesn't work because of the lack of drivers (if they couldn't get extracted from the sony tablet). But i have to say that i'm neither a electronic technician nor a programmer. Only wanted to suggest my wishes ;-)
Maybe this can help:
http://www.irdroid.com/
greetings
Can you make a regular USB cable with this connector ?
question: do you have the pin out of the 40-pin connector?
w04g005 said:
- Infrared adapter to control your home cinema (i saw that the new sony tablet s has it built in. maye we can port the software?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This would be a great idea - this sort of feature makes the Sony offering stand out in an otherwise fairly homogenous tablet market. Don't know anything about how to do this though, but will post back if I manage to find out anything useful...
fisha21 said:
This would be a great idea - this sort of feature makes the Sony offering stand out in an otherwise fairly homogenous tablet market. Don't know anything about how to do this though, but will post back if I manage to find out anything useful...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, i assume 2 or 3 pins on the 40-pin connector are for audio signals because the dock has an audio out! we could connect some irda leds to the pins like shown in this project:
www.irdroid.com
But i have to say that i read today about a new logitech product called: logitech harmony link
www.logitech.com/en-us/remotes/universal-remotes/devices/harmony-link
i think i will buy these to replace my harmony one.
greetings
Matthias
how about a mini usb cord? So I could plug my DSLR camera into it and download the pictures on the fly?..or even a micro to plug the phone in...but if it was a USB hub, it would work as well..just a longer cord.
w04g005 said:
Ok, i assume 2 or 3 pins on the 40-pin connector are for audio signals because the dock has an audio out! we could connect some irda leds to the pins like shown in this project:
www.irdroid.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Quick look on Google shows up this serial IR transceiver made by IguanaWorks. I'm afraid my electronics knowledge is very limited, but could the serial connector be replaced by these Asus-compatible adapters. I suspect the main problem might be the way the transceiver draws charge from the serial port to charge up the capacitor? According to the website, it uses LIRC so either the Irdroid or Androlirc apps might work (Androlirc requires an audio-IR device, so may need some tweaking, but is apparently open-source).
The other option might be the Newkinetix Re - whether it would be possible to replace the iThing connector with the ones you have located. Of course, the app is only for iOS, so yet another stumbling block.
I'm only feeding back the results of my digging, lack any of the required skills to make any of this work, so forgive if it all misses the mark completely.
w04g005 said:
But i have to say that i read today about a new logitech product called: logitech harmony link
www.logitech.com/en-us/remotes/universal-remotes/devices/harmony-link
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course, this does also look pretty good, if you don't mind the IR extender "spiders" ... and the fact that the TV guide feature is only available for iPad (grr!)
I thought this thread would be more popular. If the plug didn't cost so much to ship to my country I'd be building a wall charger with a long lead and a car charger.
Sent from my u8800 using XDA App
That's a nice find! Now if only we knew some technical details about the connector pin-out.. I guess a good start would be looking at what both docks have inside and the connector routings, I doubt they use any external electronics, so should be quite easy to do cool things.
EDIT: at least now we'll be able to do another cable.. buy a standard USB 3.0, cut one end out and solder the new connector. A bit of cleaning everything up and ready to go.
PatrickVogeli said:
That's a nice find! Now if only we knew some technical details about the connector pin-out.. I guess a good start would be looking at what both docks have inside and the connector routings, I doubt they use any external electronics, so should be quite easy to do cool things.
EDIT: at least now we'll be able to do another cable.. buy a standard USB 3.0, cut one end out and solder the new connector. A bit of cleaning everything up and ready to go.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I finally got my USB Host Kit for the TF, so I can work on the connector pin out. The USB Kit did not work (for me) on the dock 40 pin socket, so apparently there are differences between the Dock and Tablet 40 pin sockets.
Can anyone can confirm the USB Kit does/does not work on the dock 40 pin socket?
Thanks
fisha21 said:
Quick look on Google shows up this serial IR transceiver made by IguanaWorks. I'm afraid my electronics knowledge is very limited, but could the serial connector be replaced by these Asus-compatible adapters. I suspect the main problem might be the way the transceiver draws charge from the serial port to charge up the capacitor? According to the website, it uses LIRC so either the Irdroid or Androlirc apps might work (Androlirc requires an audio-IR device, so may need some tweaking, but is apparently open-source).
The other option might be the Newkinetix Re - whether it would be possible to replace the iThing connector with the ones you have located. Of course, the app is only for iOS, so yet another stumbling block.
I'm only feeding back the results of my digging, lack any of the required skills to make any of this work, so forgive if it all misses the mark completely.
Of course, this does also look pretty good, if you don't mind the IR extender "spiders" ... and the fact that the TV guide feature is only available for iPad (grr!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems many people like infra-red controls. Here is some pics of the I-Got-Control device for the iPod/iPad/iPhone.
There seems to be only a few lines connected to the Apple 30 pin connector. Does anyone have the pin-out for Apple 30 pin connectors?
I think this might be easily attached to the Asus USB Host or SD adapter.
Thanks!
a backpack style add-on for the TF would be neat...something that adds a battery/usb/etc at the cost of making it a bit fatter and maybe taller..
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using xda premium
Any updates on this?
Amazed at how hard it is to find a 30-pin connector pinout, seems Apple tweaked it a bit as new generations came along.
This is the kind of thread I love to see, on Android+TF!
Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk
If I were to solder every connector point through a wire, would connecting the dock from the side through the 40 pin connector to the bottom slot of the TF give the same communication as if the TF is docked? Been wanting to "dock" the tablet without actually having them together.
Yeah, it would work, but instead of soldering better find connectors and a cable. I'm thinking of doing it to my USB adaptor (which is very badly done, completely loose).
Bob Smith42 said:
Does anyone have the pin-out for Apple 30 pin connectors?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Isn't that available all over the net?
pinouts.ru /PortableDevices/ipod_pinout.shtml
Cheers!
-M
Xda member since 2007
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that thing and cannot be use anymore. Now in the USB feeder of Archos just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (only 4 USB metal pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, it is bricked because of no battery power.
It is just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit. 3 times emailed [email protected] with no response as the world has suspected.
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if anyone can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
2. Can anyone share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
3. I've search this on thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557506, but the information provided on how to dismantle is not very clear.
4. Thankyou in advance.
cangguek said:
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that thing and cannot be use anymore. Now in the USB feeder of Archos just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (only 4 USB metal pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, it is bricked because of no battery power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uuups this is bad...
cangguek said:
It is just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit. 3 times emailed [email protected] with no response as the world has suspected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's sad that they did not reply, but do you think it is covered by warranty if your borked the USB connector?
cangguek said:
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if anyone can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's only a single screw at the back.
The housing is hold together by some plastic clamps and it is a pain to open the case (at least compared to a A101IT Gen8).
You really need some force and be very careful not to damage anything...
I'll post a few pics this week in a different thread, because i opened the device last week and it was little bit catchy
cangguek said:
2. Can anyone share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Usually this is not an easy task... at least for the unexperienced ones.
Be careful with the thin lines on that PCB.
To unsolder the connector you'll need a lot of heat because it is connected to the gorund plane of the mainboard.
Anyway i don't know the manufacturer, but i guess these MicroUSB connectors are all pretty similar.
So try to catch one, wherever it is sold.
cangguek said:
3. I've search this on thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557506, but the information provided on how to dismantle is not very clear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should start on the opposite side of the connectors and use some plectrums (used by guitar players) to lift off the plastic clamps.
As i said i'll prepare some pics...
EDIT: Here's an overview on how i opened the case.
As already stated it was a pain, and though i had been very careful, some tiny plastics got damaged.
The red circles mark the plastic clamps and the holes they were stucked in respectively.
The green arrows mark the direction i slided my guitar plectrum.
In between you'll have to use something like a screwdriver or putty knife to lift the clamps from their counterparts (this was the evil part).
In the end lift the top of the housing in the yellow direction.
Please take care of the flat cables of the TFT display, don't rip it off!!!
cangguek said:
4. Thankyou in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome!
scholbert
scholbert,
I don't know how should I thanks for your detailed information and photo on your reply.
Below my comment:
1. There is no abuse on the USB port (even no single scratch or dent to prove the abuse, from new I feel it is really tight when I connect the cable into the port, finally the plastic part comes out "cleanly" along with the USB cable connector when I unplug. That's way I try to bet the warranty honor...ray.
2. I've checked eBay and I find many type of micro USB port selling.
3. Based on the generous help you've written I will try to dismantle my Archos when I have spare time within this week.
4. If I may ask, for what purpose you dismantle your Archos. And did you find any problem something like not properly tight when you remantle it again?.
5. From the picture, are all the clamps just on the display side, or mix up and down between the base and display?. Appreciate if you can post the zoom picture of the clamp and the hole to know it's anatomy to make easier when pushing during dismantle process. I also seeing 4 screw-like holes on 4 corner, are they also something like alignment clamps without actual screw?.
6. Big thankyou again for your response.
cangguek said:
4. If I may ask, for what purpose you dismantle your Archos. And did you find any problem something like not properly tight when you remantle it again?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if i got a second edition device, but i realized this screen issue as well (pressure on the back causes effects on the display).
So i thought i may open it and try to solve this issue.
Anyway i always like to investigate on the construction of these devices...
cangguek said:
5. From the picture, are all the clamps just on the display side, or mix up and down between the base and display?. Appreciate if you can post the zoom picture of the clamp and the hole to know it's anatomy to make easier when pushing during dismantle process. I also seeing 4 screw-like holes on 4 corner, are they also something like alignment clamps without actual screw?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be exact, the clamps are located all on the base unit.
The display side got the holes for the clamps. I'll see if i could make a more detailed picture, to point you in the right direction.
Though i'm not sure if it helps.
The srew like holes you pointed at are for alignment only.
I also found some glue in the holes, but this is no problem.
Some words on seperation...
It worked out like this on the long side of the housing (upper and lower):
- I tried to seperate the display part and the base with the plectrum step by step
- tried to locate each clamp step by step
- then used a screwdriver
- tried to press gently against the clamp, direction outside to inside
(be very careful and the long side at the bottom, because of the display flex cable)
- then try to lift the parts more and more (it's terrible, but it works)
- keep an eye on the torsion of the display side
(seperate the parts too much, might crack the screen)
I guess i'll prepare some more pics...
Stay tuned!
scholbert
You are really a man god sent to me, thankyou so much. I'm really itching to do the job. First thing I will do once dismantle completed, is to wire two lines for temporary charging until the part I order arrive. If by any chance impossible to replace micro USB port, then I will make hole on the base for common round type DC charging port + and - only.
Hey cangguek,
as promised, here are some detailed views of the clamps (base unit) and holders (display side).
The are four holders in total with two holes each.
The holders are seperate parts and are mounted with three screws in the display part of the housing. Each holder fits into two clamps of the base unit.
Unfortunately they can only get disassembled after you managed to open the housing.
The edge of the clamps point to the border of the base unit housing.
So you may try to push them gently to the inside to release the mating part at the display side.
Anyway i hope things are clear enough now...
Some words on your idea of soldering a DC charging port:
Electrically this would work i guess, but there might be some driver issue which could prevent the unit from charging.
It depends on how the charger is identified by the software driver, which activates the charging process.
On some devices it is required to shorten the data lines of the usb connector, others use the id pin on the micro usb to detect wether a host pc or a wall charger is connected. I don't know how things are done on the Archos 80 G9.
I just wanted to point that out before you start soldering...
Good luck!!!
scholbert
scholbert said:
Some words on your idea of soldering a DC charging port:
Electrically this would work i guess, but there might be some driver issue which could prevent the unit from charging.
It depends on how the charger is identified by the software driver, which activates the charging process.
On some devices it is required to shorten the data lines of the usb connector, others use the id pin on the micro usb to detect wether a host pc or a wall charger is connected. I don't know how things are done on the Archos 80 G9.
I just wanted to point that out before you start soldering...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
-Data lines are not shorted, charging cable is a fully functional usb cable
-There must be something done to 4th (unused) pin in micro sd plug so device can detect Archos/"normal" cables (my guess- check data lines->if usb host not present check 4th pin->original=fast charge/3rd party=slow charge)
gen_scheisskopf said:
-Data lines are not shorted, charging cable is a fully functional usb cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i know that the data lines in the cable are not shorted.
AFAIK, they get shorted when connected to the wall charger.
I own a Milestone phone (which definitely requires the lines shorted for charging) and i successfully used the Archos wall charger to charge this device.
At least i wanted to point in this direction...
Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
scholbert
scholbert said:
Yeah i know that the data lines in the cable are not shorted.
AFAIK, they get shorted when connected to the wall charger.
I own a Milestone phone (which definitely requires the lines shorted for charging) and i successfully used the Archos wall charger to charge this device.
At least i wanted to point in this direction...
Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok
-data lines are shorted together in charger (not to gnd/vcc)
-that's strange but 4th pin seems not to be connected anywhere
sorry, left empty.
Dear scholbert,
All the process as you said really a devil. I am stuck here (at red arrow) and can not proceed unless I tear it with force. Seems there different clamps ?.
Now I am stopping the the job waiting your further help.
Thankyou for helping me:
cangguek said:
Dear scholbert,
All the process as you said really a devil. I am stuck here (at red arrow) and can not proceed unless I tear it with force. Seems there different clamps ?.
Now I am stopping the the job waiting your further help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i know it hurts... but AFAIK all the clamps are identical.
Nevertheless i realized the same during disassembly.
Some of the clamps did release quite well, at some point i also was afraid i'll break the device into pieces. I'm sorry but i guess you'll have to use gentle force to get it seperated.
BTW, i don't want to be responsible if you damage something
Another warning at this point:
I even did break some small plastics during opening (in the mainboard area), but it doesn't matter in the end, because there are many clamps to hold the parts in place
Good luck!
scholbert
Just to confirm the only screw I removed only the one under the stand stick, I hope I am not missing here. I am still not continuing dismantle process, but at least 40% of the casing has been opened.
cangguek said:
Just to confirm the only screw I removed only the one under the stand stick, I hope I am not missing here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, only one screw...
Regards,
scholbert
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
cangguek said:
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
someone needs to get out the old dustbuster
cangguek said:
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
View attachment 1057101 View attachment 1057102View attachment 1057103
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am happy to see these pictures as they confirm my suspicion. The usb charge port is only soldered on, no screws to hold it in place. That is not a proper mechanical construction and it is no winder it becomes disconnected with only a little use. I have sent 2 units back already which will no longer charge as the mount point has come loose. Number 3 broke too now and as they want me to pay for shipment again ( €50) I am thinking of fixing it myself in stead, but properly..
I have the same problem
Did you eventually repair this problem. If so were did you get the spare part. i have got the same problem. I think i might try returning to my supplier first.
Brilliant tips
scholbert said:
Uuups this is bad...
It's sad that they did not reply, but do you think it is covered by warranty if your borked the USB connector?
There's only a single screw at the back.
The housing is hold together by some plastic clamps and it is a pain to open the case (at least compared to a A101IT Gen8).
You really need some force and be very careful not to damage anything...
I'll post a few pics this week in a different thread, because i opened the device last week and it was little bit catchy
Usually this is not an easy task... at least for the unexperienced ones.
Be careful with the thin lines on that PCB.
To unsolder the connector you'll need a lot of heat because it is connected to the gorund plane of the mainboard.
Anyway i don't know the manufacturer, but i guess these MicroUSB connectors are all pretty similar.
So try to catch one, wherever it is sold.
You should start on the opposite side of the connectors and use some plectrums (used by guitar players) to lift off the plastic clamps.
As i said i'll prepare some pics...
EDIT: Here's an overview on how i opened the case.
As already stated it was a pain, and though i had been very careful, some tiny plastics got damaged.
The red circles mark the plastic clamps and the holes they were stucked in respectively.
The green arrows mark the direction i slided my guitar plectrum.
In between you'll have to use something like a screwdriver or putty knife to lift the clamps from their counterparts (this was the evil part).
In the end lift the top of the housing in the yellow direction.
Please take care of the flat cables of the TFT display, don't rip it off!!!
You're welcome!
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great tips & will add my own step by step as replacing my screen on G9 after it parachuted from 2 foot onto a rubber floor!!:good:
topsterdog said:
Great tips & will add my own step by step as replacing my screen on G9 after it parachuted from 2 foot onto a rubber floor!!:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be very interested in this and to learn where you bought the replacement screen...
I have an 80G9 with cracked screen and LCD and busted digitiser.
Sent from my ARCHOS 101G9
Hi,
my screen of the archos g9 (1ghz, 8gb) is broken.
now i want to use the logic board like a raspberry pi.
i have bought a mini hdmi to hdmi cable.
i removed the battery, so do anyone know if it will work without the battery (by just plugging in the usb cable?)
which pins should i connect to let it boot?
Hopefully someone like scholbert can help me with this problem,
Nick
nickholtus said:
Hi,
my screen of the archos g9 (1ghz, 8gb) is broken.
i removed the battery, so do anyone know if it will work without the battery (by just plugging in the usb cable?)
which pins should i connect to let it boot?
Nick
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have the same tablet as you and my battery still slowly discharges while plugged in if im actually using it. just a thought but maybe youll have to put the batteries back into the tablet
although thinking about it since your not using the screen at all it wont be drawing any power and from what little i know im pretty sure thats the most power hungry part of the machine.
Yeah, but I tried to boot without battery with no success
On some things you need to connect 2 pins to get it working
Sent from my LT22i using xda app-developers app
Replace battery with LDO regulator
Hi nickholtus!
nickholtus said:
my screen of the archos g9 (1ghz, 8gb) is broken.
now i want to use the logic board like a raspberry pi.
i have bought a mini hdmi to hdmi cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can try... but i guess you'll need to tweak your Android system a little bit to make it work.
For example, i found out that Android refused to start up completely without the touchcontroller connected to the internal I2C bus.
Another thing might be the avtivation of HDMI.
Never tried it though.
nickholtus said:
i removed the battery, so do anyone know if it will work without the battery (by just plugging in the usb cable?)
which pins should i connect to let it boot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, plugging the USB cable is not enough. But you can power it up without batteries. There's no need to connect some pins directly, though it might be useful to similate the NTC. Read on to get it work.
As you know i use my A80S mainboard for experiments and i use a LDO to power the board instead of batteries. You'll need some soldering skills though!
nickholtus said:
Hopefully someone like scholbert can help me with this problem,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try
nickholtus said:
Yeah, but I tried to boot without battery with no success
On some things you need to connect 2 pins to get it working
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As stated above this won't work.
Please see the attached pic.
I use a simple wiring with an LDO adjusted to 3.8..4.2V and connected this cicuit to the battery solder pads on the mainboard. Completely unsolder the battery wires first.
To avoid temperature warnings i soldered an additional 4K7 resistor at the NTC solder pads.
You may use any adjustable LDO which is capable to deliver at least about 1.5A max. current.
The example in the pic uses the LDO from Pandaboard.
It is adjusted at 4.2V, which is the approximate maximum value of a fully charged LiPo cell.
The datasheet could be found very easily in the web, to get further information.
Happy hacking!
scholbert
thanks for your post, i was on holiday so i couldn't replay earlier.
seems like i am just going to connect an battery then
If i get some money i will try the way without the battery
i can't use the board for something else so this is a nice "hack" project for later
Big thanks
Hi guys
My tablet is Archos 80G9.
Unfortunately the micro USB port destroyed.And the resistance was lost during soldering ! Please can someone tell its value . Identified in the picture , what are the parts ?
sorry for my english
thanks
Hi rocklover!
rocklover said:
Unfortunately the micro USB port destroyed.And the resistance was lost during soldering ! Please can someone tell its value . Identified in the picture , what are the parts ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uuuh that's bad, i hope you're able to repair the slot.
Anyway, the missing resistor is a zero ohm resistor, so could be replaced by a very thin wire.
This line represents the ID signal which identifies the type of cable connected to the port.
The other parts are components to protect the USB data lines and the ID signal against ESD (electrostatic discharge) pulses.
They look already damaged in your picture, so simply remove them. Not sure about the part type and manufacturer.
The USB port will definitely work without them, but might cause trouble and even destroy the internal logic in the case of ESD.
You may use any kind of USB ESD protection parts to replace these components.
Have a look in the schematics and BOM of Pandaboard this may help you to find a replacement...
Hope this helps!
Good luck,
scholbert
Hi Mr. Scholbert
It`s me !
First of all, I do thank you for the guide you gave me before. However I must notify I haven’t been able to fix the problem after 5 months!!.
You know when I connect the tablet to my computer I get a “Malfunction” error. I even reformatted the device, and Android is missing.
I have two questions now:
1. Is there a way for me to transfer the firmware(archos_it4.aos) file to the memory?
2. Can you tell me about the path after USB socket to the main board? I mean to what the USB is connected.
I’m looking for your reply.
Thanks a lot