I tried using LGs oficcial firmware upgrade software on my P500. The process failed, but rendered the phone unbootable (why dont they checksum the entire thing on the phone betfore writing to flash, atleast for the boot section?). After a few retries with various firmware uploaders, "emergency mode" is gone as well.
I'm planning on buying either "RIFF JTAG" or "Medusa Box" to rewrite the flash.
I'm a bit uncomfortable with soldering 8 wires to the tiny JTAG connector on the mainboard, and would rather prefer to buy a plug of correct size, and solder wires to that.
Does anyone know where I can find such a plug, or what the socket/plug type is called? (the socket is indicated by the arrow on (I'm not allowed to post urls, google "7263653-post2.html"))
Mostly it is B2B support and you need special tools, SW and other things directly from LG and you have to probably pay for it.
You can check Service manual, if there will be something helpful (my signature) but I'm skeptic about.
I think it would be easy to soldier the wires as the pin to be solder are alternate (1 on top next at bottom). 1 = far corner pin from sim card. 2 = front of it.3 = next to 1. and so on.
Else search for 14-pin Target Adapter cable.
I found one but i dont think it will work without modifying it, its a female type connector.
http://www.spectrumdigital.com/product_info.php?&products_id=185
Yay, soldering. Please post some pics if you make it working.
i think this should work. you will not have to solder the phone but the other end of cable.
http://microcontrollershop.com/product_info.php?cPath=154_171_475&products_id=4124
More usefull info here but the adaptor will be of no use just the ribbon cable.
http://www.segger.com/cms/jlink-adapters.html
4silvertooth said:
I found one but i dont think it will work without modifying it, its a female type connector.
spectrumdigital.com...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess the modifying part here will involve some soldering on the mainboard, which I'm trying to avoid. The connector looks like shown in the attached image. It is similar to the LCD connector, but slightly narrower (and obviously with different number of pins)
Yaa its a 14 pin jtag connector , can't find a proper ribbon connector to it. All the links I provide will need some mod but lets search...
Sent from my LG-P500 using XDA Premium App
sorry for a silly question maybe...but can u tell me what jtag connector means?...cuz today i bricked my optimus one and i'm trying to find a way to revive it..and i saw everywhere jtag jtag jtag but i don't know what it is.
Precupetu said:
sorry for a silly question maybe...but can u tell me what jtag connector means?...cuz today i bricked my optimus one and i'm trying to find a way to revive it..and i saw everywhere jtag jtag jtag but i don't know what it is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its a hardware which lets us flash rom directly to phone hardware. Costs around 100$.
Sent from my LG-P500 using XDA Premium App
If you ressurect it with RiffBox,you'll lose your IMEI.
You need Octopus Box for IMEI repair.
Or,you can just read the FULL from a working P500.
Soldering is not that hard. It was easier for me,to detach the connector and solder directly to mainboard.
ReeLT said:
If you ressurect it with RiffBox,you'll lose your IMEI.
You need Octopus Box for IMEI repair.
Or,you can just read the FULL from a working P500.
Soldering is not that hard. It was easier for me,to detach the connector and solder directly to mainboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bump! This Topic was dead long back!
Where to buy riff box here in the Philippines?
JGNROMERO said:
Where to buy riff box here in the Philippines?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you can check this out....
http://benjoe-gsm-services.blogspot.com/2011/05/riffbox-back-on-stocks.html
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that thing and cannot be use anymore. Now in the USB feeder of Archos just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (only 4 USB metal pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, it is bricked because of no battery power.
It is just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit. 3 times emailed [email protected] with no response as the world has suspected.
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if anyone can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
2. Can anyone share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
3. I've search this on thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557506, but the information provided on how to dismantle is not very clear.
4. Thankyou in advance.
cangguek said:
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that thing and cannot be use anymore. Now in the USB feeder of Archos just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (only 4 USB metal pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, it is bricked because of no battery power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uuups this is bad...
cangguek said:
It is just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit. 3 times emailed [email protected] with no response as the world has suspected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's sad that they did not reply, but do you think it is covered by warranty if your borked the USB connector?
cangguek said:
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if anyone can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's only a single screw at the back.
The housing is hold together by some plastic clamps and it is a pain to open the case (at least compared to a A101IT Gen8).
You really need some force and be very careful not to damage anything...
I'll post a few pics this week in a different thread, because i opened the device last week and it was little bit catchy
cangguek said:
2. Can anyone share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Usually this is not an easy task... at least for the unexperienced ones.
Be careful with the thin lines on that PCB.
To unsolder the connector you'll need a lot of heat because it is connected to the gorund plane of the mainboard.
Anyway i don't know the manufacturer, but i guess these MicroUSB connectors are all pretty similar.
So try to catch one, wherever it is sold.
cangguek said:
3. I've search this on thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557506, but the information provided on how to dismantle is not very clear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should start on the opposite side of the connectors and use some plectrums (used by guitar players) to lift off the plastic clamps.
As i said i'll prepare some pics...
EDIT: Here's an overview on how i opened the case.
As already stated it was a pain, and though i had been very careful, some tiny plastics got damaged.
The red circles mark the plastic clamps and the holes they were stucked in respectively.
The green arrows mark the direction i slided my guitar plectrum.
In between you'll have to use something like a screwdriver or putty knife to lift the clamps from their counterparts (this was the evil part).
In the end lift the top of the housing in the yellow direction.
Please take care of the flat cables of the TFT display, don't rip it off!!!
cangguek said:
4. Thankyou in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome!
scholbert
scholbert,
I don't know how should I thanks for your detailed information and photo on your reply.
Below my comment:
1. There is no abuse on the USB port (even no single scratch or dent to prove the abuse, from new I feel it is really tight when I connect the cable into the port, finally the plastic part comes out "cleanly" along with the USB cable connector when I unplug. That's way I try to bet the warranty honor...ray.
2. I've checked eBay and I find many type of micro USB port selling.
3. Based on the generous help you've written I will try to dismantle my Archos when I have spare time within this week.
4. If I may ask, for what purpose you dismantle your Archos. And did you find any problem something like not properly tight when you remantle it again?.
5. From the picture, are all the clamps just on the display side, or mix up and down between the base and display?. Appreciate if you can post the zoom picture of the clamp and the hole to know it's anatomy to make easier when pushing during dismantle process. I also seeing 4 screw-like holes on 4 corner, are they also something like alignment clamps without actual screw?.
6. Big thankyou again for your response.
cangguek said:
4. If I may ask, for what purpose you dismantle your Archos. And did you find any problem something like not properly tight when you remantle it again?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if i got a second edition device, but i realized this screen issue as well (pressure on the back causes effects on the display).
So i thought i may open it and try to solve this issue.
Anyway i always like to investigate on the construction of these devices...
cangguek said:
5. From the picture, are all the clamps just on the display side, or mix up and down between the base and display?. Appreciate if you can post the zoom picture of the clamp and the hole to know it's anatomy to make easier when pushing during dismantle process. I also seeing 4 screw-like holes on 4 corner, are they also something like alignment clamps without actual screw?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be exact, the clamps are located all on the base unit.
The display side got the holes for the clamps. I'll see if i could make a more detailed picture, to point you in the right direction.
Though i'm not sure if it helps.
The srew like holes you pointed at are for alignment only.
I also found some glue in the holes, but this is no problem.
Some words on seperation...
It worked out like this on the long side of the housing (upper and lower):
- I tried to seperate the display part and the base with the plectrum step by step
- tried to locate each clamp step by step
- then used a screwdriver
- tried to press gently against the clamp, direction outside to inside
(be very careful and the long side at the bottom, because of the display flex cable)
- then try to lift the parts more and more (it's terrible, but it works)
- keep an eye on the torsion of the display side
(seperate the parts too much, might crack the screen)
I guess i'll prepare some more pics...
Stay tuned!
scholbert
You are really a man god sent to me, thankyou so much. I'm really itching to do the job. First thing I will do once dismantle completed, is to wire two lines for temporary charging until the part I order arrive. If by any chance impossible to replace micro USB port, then I will make hole on the base for common round type DC charging port + and - only.
Hey cangguek,
as promised, here are some detailed views of the clamps (base unit) and holders (display side).
The are four holders in total with two holes each.
The holders are seperate parts and are mounted with three screws in the display part of the housing. Each holder fits into two clamps of the base unit.
Unfortunately they can only get disassembled after you managed to open the housing.
The edge of the clamps point to the border of the base unit housing.
So you may try to push them gently to the inside to release the mating part at the display side.
Anyway i hope things are clear enough now...
Some words on your idea of soldering a DC charging port:
Electrically this would work i guess, but there might be some driver issue which could prevent the unit from charging.
It depends on how the charger is identified by the software driver, which activates the charging process.
On some devices it is required to shorten the data lines of the usb connector, others use the id pin on the micro usb to detect wether a host pc or a wall charger is connected. I don't know how things are done on the Archos 80 G9.
I just wanted to point that out before you start soldering...
Good luck!!!
scholbert
scholbert said:
Some words on your idea of soldering a DC charging port:
Electrically this would work i guess, but there might be some driver issue which could prevent the unit from charging.
It depends on how the charger is identified by the software driver, which activates the charging process.
On some devices it is required to shorten the data lines of the usb connector, others use the id pin on the micro usb to detect wether a host pc or a wall charger is connected. I don't know how things are done on the Archos 80 G9.
I just wanted to point that out before you start soldering...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
-Data lines are not shorted, charging cable is a fully functional usb cable
-There must be something done to 4th (unused) pin in micro sd plug so device can detect Archos/"normal" cables (my guess- check data lines->if usb host not present check 4th pin->original=fast charge/3rd party=slow charge)
gen_scheisskopf said:
-Data lines are not shorted, charging cable is a fully functional usb cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i know that the data lines in the cable are not shorted.
AFAIK, they get shorted when connected to the wall charger.
I own a Milestone phone (which definitely requires the lines shorted for charging) and i successfully used the Archos wall charger to charge this device.
At least i wanted to point in this direction...
Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
scholbert
scholbert said:
Yeah i know that the data lines in the cable are not shorted.
AFAIK, they get shorted when connected to the wall charger.
I own a Milestone phone (which definitely requires the lines shorted for charging) and i successfully used the Archos wall charger to charge this device.
At least i wanted to point in this direction...
Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok
-data lines are shorted together in charger (not to gnd/vcc)
-that's strange but 4th pin seems not to be connected anywhere
sorry, left empty.
Dear scholbert,
All the process as you said really a devil. I am stuck here (at red arrow) and can not proceed unless I tear it with force. Seems there different clamps ?.
Now I am stopping the the job waiting your further help.
Thankyou for helping me:
cangguek said:
Dear scholbert,
All the process as you said really a devil. I am stuck here (at red arrow) and can not proceed unless I tear it with force. Seems there different clamps ?.
Now I am stopping the the job waiting your further help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i know it hurts... but AFAIK all the clamps are identical.
Nevertheless i realized the same during disassembly.
Some of the clamps did release quite well, at some point i also was afraid i'll break the device into pieces. I'm sorry but i guess you'll have to use gentle force to get it seperated.
BTW, i don't want to be responsible if you damage something
Another warning at this point:
I even did break some small plastics during opening (in the mainboard area), but it doesn't matter in the end, because there are many clamps to hold the parts in place
Good luck!
scholbert
Just to confirm the only screw I removed only the one under the stand stick, I hope I am not missing here. I am still not continuing dismantle process, but at least 40% of the casing has been opened.
cangguek said:
Just to confirm the only screw I removed only the one under the stand stick, I hope I am not missing here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, only one screw...
Regards,
scholbert
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
cangguek said:
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
someone needs to get out the old dustbuster
cangguek said:
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
View attachment 1057101 View attachment 1057102View attachment 1057103
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am happy to see these pictures as they confirm my suspicion. The usb charge port is only soldered on, no screws to hold it in place. That is not a proper mechanical construction and it is no winder it becomes disconnected with only a little use. I have sent 2 units back already which will no longer charge as the mount point has come loose. Number 3 broke too now and as they want me to pay for shipment again ( €50) I am thinking of fixing it myself in stead, but properly..
I have the same problem
Did you eventually repair this problem. If so were did you get the spare part. i have got the same problem. I think i might try returning to my supplier first.
Brilliant tips
scholbert said:
Uuups this is bad...
It's sad that they did not reply, but do you think it is covered by warranty if your borked the USB connector?
There's only a single screw at the back.
The housing is hold together by some plastic clamps and it is a pain to open the case (at least compared to a A101IT Gen8).
You really need some force and be very careful not to damage anything...
I'll post a few pics this week in a different thread, because i opened the device last week and it was little bit catchy
Usually this is not an easy task... at least for the unexperienced ones.
Be careful with the thin lines on that PCB.
To unsolder the connector you'll need a lot of heat because it is connected to the gorund plane of the mainboard.
Anyway i don't know the manufacturer, but i guess these MicroUSB connectors are all pretty similar.
So try to catch one, wherever it is sold.
You should start on the opposite side of the connectors and use some plectrums (used by guitar players) to lift off the plastic clamps.
As i said i'll prepare some pics...
EDIT: Here's an overview on how i opened the case.
As already stated it was a pain, and though i had been very careful, some tiny plastics got damaged.
The red circles mark the plastic clamps and the holes they were stucked in respectively.
The green arrows mark the direction i slided my guitar plectrum.
In between you'll have to use something like a screwdriver or putty knife to lift the clamps from their counterparts (this was the evil part).
In the end lift the top of the housing in the yellow direction.
Please take care of the flat cables of the TFT display, don't rip it off!!!
You're welcome!
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great tips & will add my own step by step as replacing my screen on G9 after it parachuted from 2 foot onto a rubber floor!!:good:
topsterdog said:
Great tips & will add my own step by step as replacing my screen on G9 after it parachuted from 2 foot onto a rubber floor!!:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be very interested in this and to learn where you bought the replacement screen...
I have an 80G9 with cracked screen and LCD and busted digitiser.
Sent from my ARCHOS 101G9
Guys, the microUSB port on my 101 G9 got broken by an accident.
Looks like It needs a resoldering (and due to double-sided main board it gonna cost some serious $). I removed the port entirely as I dont need PC connectivity.
Is it possible to solder a usb cable directly to BAT-/BAT+ points on the board? Or do I need to connect it to microUSB soldering points to work properly?
//sry for my bad english - I'm from Russia and got hella tired today(
Hi Devl547,
first: Your english is perfect, no need to worry.
Devl547 said:
Guys, the microUSB port on my 101 G9 got broken by an accident.
Looks like It needs a resoldering (and due to double-sided main board it gonna cost some serious $). I removed the port entirely as I dont need PC connectivity.
Is it possible to solder a usb cable directly to BAT-/BAT+ points on the board? Or do I need to connect it to microUSB soldering points to work properly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't attach the USB cable to the battery points on the mainboard. This will damage your mainboard and battery on long term.
Please look at the area around the broken MicroUSB port and search for a green colored component.
This is the fuse for the 5V comming from the port. You might easily find a soldering point in this area as well.
You should use this as the connection to your cable, nothing else!
If you are unsure, i'll post a picture.
Best regards,
scholbert
Thanks. Actually, I have already soldered a usb cable to microusb soldering points ( nightmare difficulty :3 ).
Looks like it works perfectly, but I think I'd better buy a new Archos tablet next month and use my old one indoor as a internet/video terminal.
Hi. Can you please upload a Picture from the Solder Points how i must solder the 4 wires from a USB Cable? Thank you very much!
scholbert said:
Hi Devl547,
(...)
If you are unsure, i'll post a picture.
(...)
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi scholbert!
If you still read this, I'd really appreciate that picture as my micro usb socket came loose and currently I can't charge my Archos G9 101 Turbo.
Thanks,
Nuems
Hi Nuems!
Nuems said:
If you still read this, I'd really appreciate that picture as my micro usb socket came loose and currently I can't charge my Archos G9 101 Turbo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm still using my Archos tablets, but i'll need to find my disassembled one to make a better picture i guess
Maybe you're able to locate the camera clip on your mainboard and remove it.
It is located near the micro USB slot...
See this post i made long ago (most informations are valid for the G9 101 as well):
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=28542261&postcount=41
After you removed the clip you should be able identify the fuse as well.
It is a marked component with a "T" on top.
As told before this is the best place to solder some cable for external charger.
Regards,
scholbert
Hello,
I have a big problem with S3. It shows that its not registered on network when I try to call but as how I know its fixable, but the port is damaged and only charges and does not sync with PC. I wanted to ask is there any way of fixing it without USB connection or could I connect the S3 straight from motherboard? I know it might sound stupid but I think its possible to open it up take USB cable and just cut it so I could put the cables straight on contacts on the motherboard, but first I would like to hear more experienced people opinion about this problem. Thanks.
CyTaS said:
Hello,
I have a big problem with S3. It shows that its not registered on network when I try to call but as how I know its fixable, but the port is damaged and only charges and does not sync with PC. I wanted to ask is there any way of fixing it without USB connection or could I connect the S3 straight from motherboard? I know it might sound stupid but I think its possible to open it up take USB cable and just cut it so I could put the cables straight on contacts on the motherboard, but first I would like to hear more experienced people opinion about this problem. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am not sure whether I understood your problem.
1. You can not dial any number. That issue has been discussed several time. Search in the forum.
2. Your phone has not been recognized in your PC/Laptop. Try to use some toothpick and press little bit up / down of the USB port of your phone. Before doing that switch it off and take out battery. Then try with your USB cable and see it is detecting by your PC/Laptop.
You can use any other materials if toothpick not available but only anything made with wood, no metal.
KSKHH said:
I am not sure whether I understood your problem.
1. You can not dial any number. That issue has been discussed several time. Search in the forum.
2. Your phone has not been recognized in your PC/Laptop. Try to use some toothpick and press little bit up / down of the USB port of your phone. Before doing that switch it off and take out battery. Then try with your USB cable and see it is detecting by your PC/Laptop.
You can use any other materials if toothpick not available but only anything made with wood, no metal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is that port is damaged badly and won't sync and I need other way to connect it to PC without replacing the main port
CyTaS said:
The problem is that port is damaged badly and won't sync and I need other way to connect it to PC without replacing the main port
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then you should consult some technician rather than trying by yourself.