I'll share this from the Archosfans forum...
.
I would like to share this with everyone in the General forum first, (Mods may want to move it to accessories later) but this is relavent to all Archos Android devices, Windows devices and any device with Wireless file access you have.
I purchased one of these..
http://www.amazon.co.uk/D-link-Wire...NFYY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1295193642&sr=8-1
It is a fantastic small wireless router (easily transportable with 12V supply so can be fixed in a car even!) that has an internal bay for a 2.5 inch 9.5mm SATA drive (500GB max), two external USB ports for extra storage and when you load the latest firmware (V2.0) it can even utilise a Dlink 3G USB dongle to give you internet access anywhere.
It also has many software features such as internal BitTorrent client (still to check if TorrentFu can control this from the Archos), ftp server and much more...
OH, and BTW, SMB share, even password protected works flawlessly with Gen8 Archos units and all your other wireless enabled devices!!!
But I thought I would take it a little further...
You can get hold of a Toshiba 1TB external USB drive (1TB's are 12.5mm high) and modify this unit to accept it. Make sure you backup any files on the drive to other media as the router needs to format the drive to EXT3.
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Before you do anything, make sure the unit has the latest firmware from Dlink support, downloads section.
Then, open the unit by removing the three screws on the base and carefully separating the front cover (TAKE CARE as clench points need parting and two ribbon cables and the antenna connections go from the internals to the front panel) then remove the PCB screws and carefully lift it out.
At this point the eject mechanism for the HDD may jump out at you as two springs are holding it in tension but you will not need this anyway.
Remove the original cradle for the 9.5mm drive and carefully remove the black adhesive card attached to it.
Remove the two plastic side guides from the metal cradle by pressing down on the two base spring sections for each side and discard them.
Replace the bare metal cradle taking note that the small seperate metal section fits on the LAN port side of the box to give an earth screen connection, cradle to LAN ports when the PCB is replaced, dont worry that the screw gap seems wrong now that the plastic sections are removed.
Affix the black adhesive card to the bottom of your 1TB drive to provide insulation, just squash the raised spring sections (that press against the PCB and drive) on the metal cradle a little so that the taller 12.5mm drive can be accepted then insert the drive about 75% of the way into the bay.
Replace the PCB, taking care to align the cooling fan and its wires correctly, then carefully press the HDD home onto its connector.
You may have to glue the drive bay door closed as mine was loose after this mod.
Rebuild your router as it was and when you power up, it will ask if you want to format the drive, Select YES and away you go.
A small, very portable, 1TB router storage device with 3G Dongle (Dlink unit) and Bitorrent/ftp client that works with Gen8's...
Related
This works with my 2002 Lexus ES 300, YMMV.
Hardware purchased from ProClipusa.com. (I have no affiliation with ProClip, other than as a satisfied customer).
First piece is the car clip, which seats firmly to the right of the radio panel:
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Here is another view of this piece and how it attaches (it is not permanent, and can be removed):
Second piece is the device mount, which attaches to the car mount and to the device, and has a pivot on it. I was already using one that screwed into my Sirius radio, so I unscrewed it from the radio an put velcro on it. I already had velcro on the back of my G-Tab for my folio case, so the G-Tab velcros nicely onto the device mount.
Here is the picture of the device mount:
The rear of the male plate screws into the car mount, and the female plate slides onto the front of the male plate. The device attaches to the female plate.
The car and device mount sit quite firmly in the car. Because the G-Tab is quite a bit larger then the velcroed device mount (which is probably 2-3 inches square), it could attach more firmly, but there is no danger of it falling off.
ProClip has hundreds of car-specific and device-specific mounts, so if they have a car mount that will work in your car, you probably could search the device mounts to find a flat one with a larger surface area than my Sirius mount, for a larger velcro attachment. I have not done this, since the Sirius one works fine for me.
I am not at home, but I will take a picture of the mounted G-Tab later and update.
This is not the cheapest solution, but with the velcro, I now use this mount for the G-Tab, my HTC Inspire, and my Sirius radio.
Works great for me.
UPDATE:
I just took a quick look and they do sell a generic device mount for larger devices, for which they supply 2 sided tape to attach to the device. But, for me, velcro is better:
http://www.proclipusa.com/brodit-de...te-for-tablet-style-devices-215159-13975.aspx
If you are interested, make sure this device mount will attach to the specific car mount that you use.
I have a small cradle placed at the lower left corner of the windshield in my car.
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This arrangement worked quite well with the original evo since the power connector was at the bottom.
The new evo now has it on the side.
If you notice above, the flat spot of the connector is nearest the screen, not the bottom of the device.
Since I don't want to strain the existing cable or put additional strain on the jack, a 90 deg micro usb cord/adapter is necessary.
I found this on ebay -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-degree-r...976119?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item256fc511f7
OR
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-USB-5..._USB_Cables_Hubs_Adapters&hash=item41642d957a
This item appears to accept a micro usb and is just a dongle for micro usb to 90 deg micro usb.
Finally, a bit pricey, but will allow you to use a mini usb cable instead.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-mini-5p...689104?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item5ae6e2f0d0
I just ordered the 2nd one from the bottom as I already have a straight micro usb cable already routed in the car.
I'm open to any other suggestions. The part above should work, but if it doesn't, it's only $3 dollars.
Just wanted to give a small update.
The dongle ordered on ebay from china arrived the other day. Total length is about a foot.
It fits the car mount very well, is not in the way, and puts the least amount of strain on the phone's connect. Here' s a pic of the mount i'm using.
http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/4020/63304416.jpg
i bought a completely new cable with the right angle connector so i could avoid the extra bulk of using an adaptor:
It's also available in LEFT ANGLE if you want the cable to come down instead of going up.
at Amazon in various lengths:
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-3-Fe...HJDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1338677526&sr=8-1
Actually, I had the cable just the right length for the old evo 4g. With the new one and the side, it wasn't long enough to reach. With this dongle/extension, there's plenty of length and slack.
lacrossev said:
i bought a completely new cable with the right angle connector so i could avoid the extra bulk of using an adaptor:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which dock is this?
^^That looks like a proclip mount.
You buy it in two parts, one that custom fits the car, the other the device.
http://www.proclipusa.com/
Too pricey for me though.
Which clip is that? I also have a ProClipUSA car adapter and phone adapter for my original EVO. I also have a body protector similar to what is pictured. So, what phone mount is that being used that can be used with the new EVO LTE?
the part that is attached to the car is indeed proclip, however the mount that the phone goes in to is from slipgrip. I used the ball joint from my old proclip touchpro 2 mount and made some light mods and screwed it in to the slipgrip mount. They do it for naked devices or in this case the sprint silicone sleeve. Used to have one for my ballistic HC evo 4g and it was excellent.
This 2 part mount (seen in first post) from arkon works great for the windshield mount.
http://www.amazon.com/Arkon-MG178-U...9K2E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1338783678&sr=8-1
The part the holds the phone also has a socket hole to accept a 1/2" hole. Same size as used by garmin windshield/bean bag mounts. The holder is spring loaded and opens up to accept a rather wide device (specs on the arkon site). It is designed to grasp the phone in portrait mode, however can be rotated 360 deg to what ever position is appropriate.
Cool! Thanks guys! I'm thinking of turning my old EVO into a DashCam, and now I know I can get a SlipGrip mount for my new EVO with its case protector still on! Bonus: I get to still use my ProClipsUSA car mount!
I had a great ProClip mount for my Evo4G - it had a built in MicroUSB connector so I just slide the phone in and it was on charge. I modified it with a dremel and took the bottom off, then stretched it out until it could hold the EvoLTE. Not as elegent, but works until ProClip comes out with a mount designed for this phone.
I'll upload a picture next time I'm in the car.
Hi guys,
just wanna share with you my experience. I'm a big fan of wireless charging; I'm using Nokia's wireless charging plates (DT-900) at home and at work. The only one missed point - charging in a car... Yes, I know about Nokia's wireless car charger but:
- I can't find it on sale in US;
- $90 is too much for that kind of stuff (I think so!);
- I already have a very nice phone holder and don't need second one.
So, I've decided to make car charger by myself. Parts used:
- Nokia wireless charging plate DT-900 (bought on sale - slickdeals.net rulezz! - $19.95 total)
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- 12V/1 A DC car charger - $3.99
- sticky pads (it's optional - will explain below)
- scotch double-sided transparent mounting tape (I already have)
Total is $29.40
The only "tricky" part is to replace car charger connector by the original Nokia's connector (Nokia's socket is thinner). You'll need a multimeter for this job. Cut both cables, strip the wires. Attach Nokia's connector to car charger (you may just twist the wires) and check the polarity (this is important!). Polarity should be positive! Connect multimeter's ground (black one) to the external side of the connector, and put pin of red probe inside. You should see +13.4 V but not -13.4 V. Now you may solder wires (for better connectivity) or just twist 'em strong and put adhesive tape on it.
You are almost done. Cut the sticky pad by the shape of charging plate. Put mounting scotch on the back of charging plate and attach to the car. Instead of sticky pad you may use two narrow strips of the double sided scotch but sticky pad looks more "professional"
Result should looks like
The idea was to have a more ergonomic experience while reading off the Nook by using a wire with two buttons on one end and some kind of plug at the other to connect it to the Nook. Since using the USB would mean battery drain and having to run/stop some applications (like the fantastic USB mode by Renate), I tried connecting the hardware buttons directly. Thanks to dkuku and his dead motherboard I was able to do that. Here's how:
1. Locating the connection points. My Nook motherboard has a label layer with all the test points numbered. The interesting ones are:
T314 - common for all four hardware buttons on the sides
T309 - bottom left button
T310 - top right
T311 - top left
T312 - bottom right
I always hold the Nook in my left hand, so I remapped the right hand side buttons to Menu and Back. Therefore I decided to extend just the two left buttons.
2. The plug. I could not find a proper socket/plug pair small enough to fit into the Nook so I built my own. To avoid mechanical damages I decided to use small neodymium magnets as contacts. You can buy them online. I found some small ones - 2mm in diameter, 1mm thick. To make a plug and socket for two buttons we need 6 of them. To arrange them into identical patterns on the Nook face and in the plug itself I used 3 spent ballpoint cartridges that happened to be exactly 2mm wide inside so that the magnets would fit and the body of an automatic pencil that was just big enough to hold them together:
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The spaces between the cartridges were filled with epoxy. Then the sausage was cut into slices - about 2mm thick for the plug and 3mm for the socket. Then the magnets were pushed inside so that they would stick out a fraction of a milimeter.
Magnets cannot be soldered - they will lose their magnetic properties above certain temperature. Conductive glue must be used. I bought a small set for fixing rear window defrosters - a mixture of glue and silver filings. A drop into each tube holding a magnet will do. Then I covered the back of the socket/plug with epoxy to protect the more fragile conductive glue.
I decided to put the socket in the bottom right corner of the Nook frame - partly because I hold it with my left hand so that seemed natural, partly because it would fit in a small air pocket on the reverse side (I had to remove some of the little plastic reinforcing "walls") :
The extension buttons are prototypes - I'm still looking for some that would have the proper feel:
They fit quite nice, although the plug still needs some filing and painting:
The trick was not to put all magnets facing the same poles up so you can only fit the plug one way. Everything works smooth. The lazy reading is best, hands down
That's pretty nice.
My Nook Touch doesn't have any test points labelled.
Interesting perversion. =) I'd take the slimmer wires for internal mounting.
Following a post on G+ about getting wireless charging on TS https://plus.google.com/u/0/113668328412632358673/posts/AAQL8jJUdfm, I decided to record my investigations in this area.
I'll map my thoughts and experiences as I go - at the moment, I dont have wireless charging, and the final outcome may be naff, but it might inspire others.
Indeed, I couldnt even get my TS to charge outside of the cradle (documented in the post entitled SUUNTO charger), nonetheless, lets persevere.
Some things needed -
QI wireless charging base = transmitter.
QI wireless foil = receiver. This is can be got on eBay or Amazon, and is the bit that provided power to your battery. There are several sizes (mostly for branded phones) and typically fit inside a phones case, or behind the back if the phone has a removable back. You need to find the smallest available that will deliver 500mA at 5V. The ones Ive obtained so far are too big, and I may end up trimming the non-functional area to get it to fit.
Some clever way of attaching the receiver to the TS or cradle (WIP) - its possible to solder the receiver to either the TS or cradle, but we need to keep it detachable so the USB port can be used.
Some observations -
Because the TS cant lie flat, due to the wrist strap/band holding antennas not flexing horizontally, having the ability to just place the TS on a charging plate may be a non starter. [Maybe we could tolerate the foil flapping open, or being hinged to 180 degrees when charging].
As the TS has an Alu or steel back, thus creating wireless interference or insulation, having the receiver inside the TS may be a non starter.
Before I go down the route of trying to get a receiver behind inside the TS itself, (which would entail opening it up and voiding the warranty ) Im going to look at getting it to work via the charging cradle.
The inside of the cradle offers more space to get a receiver foil in, looks as though it could be done without serious soldering work or permanent damage. However, the only advantage is that it only dispenses with the USB cable - the TS still has to be placed inside the cradle.
The attached pics show the cradle components.
More posts to come later, reserving a few spots below for updates.
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Reserved 1
This picture shows the underside of the USB connector. It appears there are two resistors (the tiny rectangle surface mount components) - I guess these are creating a voltage divider to put +2.8V and +2.1V to the centre two pins. This doesnt seem to materially affect just applying 0v and +5V to the outer two though.
View attachment 2891869
Prototypes
What Im doing isnt really rocket science - Im just plugging in QI receivers to the TS. This successfully chargers the TS wirelessly, but as you can see, is not practical.
Hopefully I can find a way of making this neat, but I fear that, as I mentioned before, because the strap doesnt bend, you cant lay the TS flat.
Giving Up
With some judicious trimming of the receiver foil (after separating the liner), I was able to get it to fit inside the TS cradle.
However, the thickness of the plastic of the cradle base means the charging current wont reach the receiver. I even shaved off some of the extraneous mouldings on the base to try and get the receiver closer. I think if I persevered, and scraped into the base itself, it might work. With the extra moulding removed, I sometime get a hint of a blue charging light on my ZENS charging pad, but it never sticks.
If I could get this working, I would be faced with the last hurdle, which I fear is unsurmountable - the inability of the strap to bend. I would need a charging 'block' rather than a pad. Something that was less than 45mm between the straps. From what I can find, there aren't any; the smallest (without too much searching admittedly) was 90mm.
So this, and the fact that I couldn't find a foil small enough to go inside the TS itself, plus the TS case having the same interference problem as the cradle, means Im going to stop here.
It was a small, fun, diversion, and it would have been nice to get it working, but the retail products, and my engineering/manufacturing skills, don't exist to get us there.