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Greetings Devs.
I found this software which promises to charge i products faster. So why not the nook? I know it works with the ipad/iphone/itouch, but not the NC (or anything else for that matter). I was looking in the ini file and managed to match up the class id of each product, and then I found the id for the NC and added this line:
HKLM, System\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{3f966bd9-fa04-4ec5-991c-d326973b5128}, LowerFilters, %REG_MULTI_SZ_APPEND%, AiCharger
To both the install and uninstall filter. However, I cannot tell if it pushes extra power to just the ipad, or if it does to all of them.
Ideas? Tried digging around the sys file in hex, but nothing found. I think it would be nice if we could boost output a bit
USB Standard is 500mAh. If you somehow force your port to deliver more power you could fry it.
khaytsus said:
USB Standard is 500mAh. If you somehow force your port to deliver more power you could fry it.
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Well yeah, but no one is at least curious if this could help out at all? Maybe hardware manufactures cap it @ 5V, .5A and they override it? Maybe it provides a steadier draw somehow? Maybe they draw more power from the rails for powered-usb slots?
ace7196 said:
Well yeah, but no one is at least curious if this could help out at all? Maybe hardware manufactures cap it @ 5V, .5A and they override it? Maybe it provides a steadier draw somehow? Maybe they draw more power from the rails for powered-usb slots?
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Charging more than 500ma through the USB hardware is bad.
Lithium batteries charge at full amperage over the entire charge cycle, and just turn off the charge when they hit a certain voltage (~3.6v per cell on lipo IIRC?)
I don't think there is anything you can do from the computer side unless it tells the device itself to pull the full 500ma when it would try to pull less (for fear of overloading a USB interface, as there are usually 2 ports per USB port on a computer (IIRC.)
IMO, just use a powered USB hub?
Winmo custom roms had a quick-charge feature built in to a lot of them.
I don't think anyone fried anything.
This thread belongs in QnA though unless the op is actually developing something.
Did any naysayers even bother to look at the link? It is for Asus brand mobos only. And only certain ones are supported. Surely Asus isn't going to release an app that would fry the port...
Sent from my ADR6400L using XDA App
lafester said:
Winmo custom roms had a quick-charge feature built in to a lot of them.
I don't think anyone fried anything.
This thread belongs in QnA though unless the op is actually developing something.
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Thinking of developing the software for it...
Syco54645 said:
Did any naysayers even bother to look at the link? It is for Asus brand mobos only. And only certain ones are supported. Surely Asus isn't going to release an app that would fry the port...
Sent from my ADR6400L using XDA App
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As pointed out here, this is not JUST simply software. This is the software portion of a hardware feature on Asus motherboards. The boards have a separate controller in them that allows more amperage to specific USB ports for the purpose of charging particular, high amperage items (ipad, iphone) only. As also stated here, the USB standard is a fixed 5V .5A and this isn't something that can simply be modified via software as the controllers themselves would have problems managing higher draws (not really the physical ports).
The only application this would have would be to users with those specific boards IF the software can be hacked to allow that amperage on the Nook. It may also be worth mentioning that the Nook's internal connector is different and the higher power provided by the wall charger is not over the standard USB VCC pins on the connector. I'm not familiar enough with the wiring inside the device to say for certain, but the standard charge connections from USB may be a different path than the wall charger on a charge controller.
Quick Edit: This actually doesn't appear to be the same as their hardware specific version, which most likely makes it even less useful. It looks like this enables charging in multiple standby modes and most likely forces the port to full amperage; which is typically only done after the device negotiates with the system, initial port power is much lower. My device manager shows the Nook pulling it's full 500mA already, so unless you're trying to do a lot of charging while your computer is in standby, this isn't gonna be of much use.
Edit 2: Quick bounce around the internet shows this app as causing a bit of instability and BSODs. May not be everyone, so if you're still testing this let us know if you're stable.
Infraded said:
As pointed out here, this is not JUST simply software. This is the software portion of a hardware feature on Asus motherboards. The boards have a separate controller in them that allows more amperage to specific USB ports for the purpose of charging particular, high amperage items (ipad, iphone) only. As also stated here, the USB standard is a fixed 5V .5A and this isn't something that can simply be modified via software as the controllers themselves would have problems managing higher draws (not really the physical ports).
The only application this would have would be to users with those specific boards IF the software can be hacked to allow that amperage on the Nook. It may also be worth mentioning that the Nook's internal connector is different and the higher power provided by the wall charger is not over the standard USB VCC pins on the connector. I'm not familiar enough with the wiring inside the device to say for certain, but the standard charge connections from USB may be a different path than the wall charger on a charge controller.
Quick Edit: This actually doesn't appear to be the same as their hardware specific version, which most likely makes it even less useful. It looks like this enables charging in multiple standby modes and most likely forces the port to full amperage; which is typically only done after the device negotiates with the system, initial port power is much lower. My device manager shows the Nook pulling it's full 500mA already, so unless you're trying to do a lot of charging while your computer is in standby, this isn't gonna be of much use.
Edit 2: Quick bounce around the internet shows this app as causing a bit of instability and BSODs. May not be everyone, so if you're still testing this let us know if you're stable.
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You have to use the nook's cable to quick charge. I believe it's the same on the USB side but different on the NC side.
Thanks Infraded for the helpful reply. I did a quick search and it seemed it caused more trouble than it's worth (BSOD, etc). I'll dig deeper.
I had the same issues with my iPad. If your motherboard vendor supports it, they have a BIOS update that adjusts the USB ports to charge things like the Nook and iPad.
khaytsus said:
USB Standard is 500mAh. If you somehow force your port to deliver more power you could fry it.
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Some dell laptops (my 5400 has it) have an option in bios for USB Power Share, where they allow USB devices which know if they are connected to to wall chargers or USB plugs to charge as if they were on wall chargers.
Its epic win.
In the NC teardown, didn't they discover that the Nook Color actually uses a custom micro USB connector which is backwards compatible with the standard? It goes on to say that the NC charges only through a pair of 12V pins on the USB cable that is provided with it out of the box, and in fact when you connect your NC to your computer it is *not charging at all* even if your ROM says it is. This is consistent with my experience where the battery only goes down when plugged into my PC.
Needless to say you would need some pretty serious hardware hacks to get your PC pumping 12 volts to the USB cable.
mthe0ry said:
In the NC teardown, didn't they discover that the Nook Color actually uses a custom micro USB connector which is backwards compatible with the standard? It goes on to say that the NC charges only through a pair of 12V pins on the USB cable that is provided with it out of the box, and in fact when you connect your NC to your computer it is *not charging at all* even if your ROM says it is. This is consistent with my experience where the battery only goes down when plugged into my PC.
Needless to say you would need some pretty serious hardware hacks to get your PC pumping 12 volts to the USB cable.
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Um, no. The wall charger puts out 5 volts @ 1.9 Amps. Take a close look at the bottom of your own charger...specs are right there. Supposedly, the nook will only charge when the amperage is at least 1.9 amps. In practice it will charge as much as can minus the current it is drawing...usually more than a standard port can put out(.5A).
ie standard port = .5A
Nook draw is ~ .45A
total for charging is .05A....barely noticeable or in worst case not even enough to keep up.
Not to mention that many ports shut down entirely if they think they are sending out to much current.
send 12 volts into your nook and you will have found one of the few ways to brick it
edit: what these"hacks" for the usb ports do is raise the limiting on them to higher values..say 5 volts @ 1A or rarely 1.5A
Two of SMSC's family of transceivers supports up to 1.5A from dedicated charger ports.
Furthermore, I'm charging my nook color from my netbook right now with a standard non-OEM usb cable. So I don't think you need the standard one
Some basic info here:
http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads/Product_Brochures/usb333x_334xfs.pdf
ace7196 said:
Two of SMSC's family of transceivers supports up to 1.5A from dedicated charger ports.
Furthermore, I'm charging my nook color from my netbook right now with a standard non-OEM usb cable. So I don't think you need the standard one
Some basic info here:
http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads/Product_Brochures/usb333x_334xfs.pdf
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Yeah, I'm thinking that the extra pins in the stock cable are mostly for the led in there. Going back to work monday and ordering a spare for teardown purposes with my first check. I'll let you all know exactly what I find out.
mthe0ry said:
In the NC teardown, didn't they discover that the Nook Color actually uses a custom micro USB connector which is backwards compatible with the standard? It goes on to say that the NC charges only through a pair of 12V pins on the USB cable that is provided with it out of the box, and in fact when you connect your NC to your computer it is *not charging at all* even if your ROM says it is. This is consistent with my experience where the battery only goes down when plugged into my PC.
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Except that it does charge on ANY source. If the NC is running and active it uses MORE CURRENT THAN 500mAh, so it won't charge any, but it's still getting 500mAh of juice.
If you turn off the screen, it'll slowly charge.... Around 10%/hr.
And I suspect that the 1.9A from the stock charger+cable comes from all 3 pairs, the standard pair + the two extra in the B&N cable, but it's possible that the stock cable only charges the extra two pairs. Regardless, it does charge from a standard cable on any USB port. The B&N ROM does not show charging unless it's charging at 1.9A.
ace7196 said:
Two of SMSC's family of transceivers supports up to 1.5A from dedicated charger ports.
Furthermore, I'm charging my nook color from my netbook right now with a standard non-OEM usb cable. So I don't think you need the standard one
Some basic info here:
http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads/Product_Brochures/usb333x_334xfs.pdf
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I can also confirm nook will charge off a standard USB (at least while I've got CM7), using the stock BN cable, and definitely faster than 10%/hour. Have been doing so off my work computer for a while now. I recall that this did NOT work while the NC was virgin unrooted, however, although occasionally there'd be this weird "bump" in batt level to 100% when first connecting. Have not seen that effect since going to CM7.
last night as a test I let my nook go to 10% remaining. Then I used my daughters LG Ally cable on the stock charger for 1 hour. It charged to 24%. Then I drained back to 10% and used the stock cable for 1 hour...result?....44%. There IS something special with the stock cable. I don't think there is any magic to the charger other than the amperage.
deadbot1 said:
last night as a test I let my nook go to 10% remaining. Then I used my daughters LG Ally cable on the stock charger for 1 hour. It charged to 24%. Then I drained back to 10% and used the stock cable for 1 hour...result?....44%. There IS something special with the stock cable. I don't think there is any magic to the charger other than the amperage.
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Uh.. Yeah. As said a hundred times, the cable has 4 extra pins for charging on the MicroUSB side.
When I plug into the wall or use a power inverter in my car, it says "charging AC" and charges quicker. Although if I use a car USB dongle charger, it goes into "charging USB" mode and unfortunately, charges much slower. This really ticks me off as I just picked up a rapid charging 2.1amp(2100mA) USB car dongle.
Is there a way to tell the phone to charge as AC instead of USB? Or at least an app/widget that will change it?
voxigenboy said:
When I plug into the wall or use a power inverter in my car, it says "charging AC" and charges quicker. Although if I use a car USB dongle charger, it goes into "charging USB" mode and unfortunately, charges much slower. This really ticks me off as I just picked up a rapid charging 2.1amp(2100mA) USB car dongle.
Is there a way to tell the phone to charge as AC instead of USB? Or at least an app/widget that will change it?
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max current in the USB spec is between 500 and 900 mA depending on version. Congrats, you got scammed. Take it back.
Edit: Correction, there has been a modification to the spec to allow, ostensibly, mobile devices to draw greater power when charging. The device may draw up to 1800mA when connected as a Dedicated Charging Port which disallows data transfer in this mode. Two things to note about this. First, the HTC supplied AC-to-USB adapter lists a 1000mA (1A) current output, and your users manual (you did read the manual, right?) specifies you should only use this charger with your phone. Second, despite the fact that I am not even sure you would want the phone to take 1800mA, when it's designed to charge with 1000mA, your "rapid charging" device is STILL over-specced by ~14%. Not a gamble I personally would be willing to take.
Good luck.
Edit 2: To answer your original question, no, you cannot fix this in software. The dedicated charging mode is triggered by shorting the d+ and d- data contacts. If your USB dongle doesn't do this, then the phone will never, ever be able to recognize it as a dedicated charging port and you will only get 900mA charging current at 5V per the standard USB spec.
punman said:
Edit 2: To answer your original question, no, you cannot fix this in software. The dedicated charging mode is triggered by shorting the d+ and d- data contacts.
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Yeah, this seemed to be the final answer for giving the Desire enough juice to charge in a car while running nav. I don't plan on using nav a lot in my daily routine, but it would be nice to have a safe, effective answer to getting an "AC Charge" in a car. I saw the picture of voxigen's 12v port -> inverter -> AC USB adapter setup, but I don't have that much room around my 12v port in my car lol.
Apsalus said:
Yeah, this seemed to be the final answer for giving the Desire enough juice to charge in a car while running nav. I don't plan on using nav a lot in my daily routine, but it would be nice to have a safe, effective answer to getting an "AC Charge" in a car. I saw the picture of voxigen's 12v port -> inverter -> AC USB adapter setup, but I don't have that much room around my 12v port in my car lol.
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i wouldn't mind continuing to use that inverter(aside from occasionally hitting my knee on it), just the downside to it is that whenever i'm playing music from my phone -> stereo, there'll be this weird buzzing/hissing sound in between tracks/when a song is paused, but while a song is playing it goes away... and it does not do that when i plug in through that usb charging dongle.
The official B&N car adapter is $25 in the store. I am thinking it might be better to just get a car inverter for a little more money and use the regular wall plug that comes with the device, leaving you open to using other devices in the car too.
Thoughts?
Try this on amazon.com. This Kensington charger has a high output (2.1amp) and a low output. You need to use the Nook usb cable to charge though.
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-K3...patible/dp/tech-data/B003PU01M4/ref=de_a_smtd
hwong96 said:
Try this on amazon.com. This Kensington charger has a high output (2.1amp) and a low output. You need to use the Nook usb cable to charge though.
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-K3...patible/dp/tech-data/B003PU01M4/ref=de_a_smtd
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I was thinking something more like this:
http://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-invert..._1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1322763865&sr=1-1
And using the regular wall adapter for the nook to charge it in the car.
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-...1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1322765700&sr=1-1
7 dollars 2.1 amp should work and save you a couple bucks. I believe you can only use one port while charging the nook because of the split in power.
yaggermr said:
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-...1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1322765700&sr=1-1
7 dollars 2.1 amp should work and save you a couple bucks. I believe you can only use one port while charging the nook because of the split in power.
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My only concern is, other users have said it doesn't charge quickly via powered USB, so if you had the inverter with a regular outlet plug, you could charge the nook much faster in a car with it. I guess it depends on what you look to do.
I do like the price on the one you linked though, so much better than B&N one.
HMG10 said:
My only concern is, other users have said it doesn't charge quickly via powered USB, so if you had the inverter with a regular outlet plug, you could charge the nook much faster in a car with it. I guess it depends on what you look to do.
I do like the price on the one you linked though, so much better than B&N one.
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With a standard USB port on your PC (most are 0.5 amps), you would be absolutely correct - charging would take forever and only with the screen off. This, however, provides up to 2.1 amps - enough to charge an iPad and, presumably, a Nook Tablet quite comfortably. I would assume, however, you would need to use the included cable instead of a standard micro USB - from what I've been reading the cable has additional pins for these power requirements.
PlacidCat said:
With a standard USB port on your PC (most are 0.5 amps), you would be absolutely correct - charging would take forever and only with the screen off. This, however, provides up to 2.1 amps - enough to charge an iPad and, presumably, a Nook Tablet quite comfortably. I would assume, however, you would need to use the included cable instead of a standard micro USB - from what I've been reading the cable has additional pins for these power requirements.
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Yes, I read that the USB cable is not a standard one. So I guess I'm back to: Would the utility of getting an inverter (for about $15) be more useful than to get the <$10 USB charger. Either way, the B&N USB charger is a complete rip off at $25.
But then again, they want $20 for 2 screen protectors...
HMG10 said:
Yes, I read that the USB cable is not a standard one. So I guess I'm back to: Would the utility of getting an inverter (for about $15) be more useful than to get the <$10 USB charger. Either way, the B&N USB charger is a complete rip off at $25.
But then again, they want $20 for 2 screen protectors...
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I guess it would depend on what you can dream up. I personally only have USB-based devices that I use in my car, hence my USB adapters. I've never felt the need for a power inverter.
If, however, you have several devices that have custom charging dongles (or plan on getting any) the inverter would be a better investment as you wouldn't have to get a separate car charger for each of those devices. Not to mention, you could power a laptop for a passenger, charge your kid's Nintendo DS, etc.
It really just depends on what you have. Sorry, I'm not being helpful with respect to a decision.
A Highpowered (2amp+) USB adapter would be more efficient than a power inverter, and take up less space. Converting 12v DC to 110v AC then back down to 5v DC is a waste of energy, and in the long term it'll put a damper on your car battery. I'd never use an inverter for more than a few minutes without the car running either. I personally use both for my charging on the go needs, especially since laptops need a bit more than 12v to charge.
Look for a USB adapter than can charge an ipad (2.1A).
I believe the Nook Tablet needs 5v 1.9A (or 1900mA), more is fine (totally safe.)
reverenddak said:
A Highpowered (2amp+) USB adapter would be more efficient than a power inverter, and take up less space. Converting 12v DC to 110v AC then back down to 5v DC is a waste of energy, and in the long term it'll put a damper on your car battery. I'd never use an inverter for more than a few minutes without the car running either. I personally use both for my charging on the go needs, especially since laptops need a bit more than 12v to charge.
Look for a USB adapter than can charge an ipad (2.1A).
I believe the Nook Tablet needs 5v 1.9A (or 1900mA), more is fine (totally safe.)
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Based on what you said, I didn't realize until now that the 2.1amp USB adapter would charge it at the same speed as the inverter.
HMG10 said:
Based on what you said, I didn't realize until now that the 2.1amp USB adapter would charge it at the same speed as the inverter.
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Yup, I took a quick glance at the wall-plug for the nook, and it is indeed 5v 1.9A out. So a 2.1A USB adapter is more than enough to charge a Nook at full rate.
I bought an inverter, but I use it for my laptop, too.
Cheap inverters do not have a clean sine wave and can damage electronics. You should get an inverter with a pure sine wave to be safe.
12v charger for book hd
Normal USB car chargers do not work with the nook HD. I bought a 150watt 12/240v inverter that plugs into a lighter socket. I plug the nook mains charger into the inverter and it charges the Nook no problem.
I have a USB car charger that doesn't seem to charge as quickly as I would like it to. I say that by comparing it to previous phones and the rate at which they charged when plugged into it.
I read that you can short out the Belkin or Griffin USB charges to make it look like your phone is plugged into the wall. I'm not agains doing this because i like to tweak.
The question really is, I see that Proporta has a 4000mA (2000mA per port) dual port USB charger available. Will this allow my phone to charge like it's plugged into the wall or will it still "look like" I'm plugged into a USB prot charging?
- Cyber
Not exactly sure what you're asking, but I assume that you mean that a wall charger charges the phone faster than a car charger.
Unfortunately, I don't know if this is the case. USB is a universal standard with specific power requirements. Although there are medium and high power chargers out there, I would be reluctant to get something so extreme. I think USB calls for 500 mA standard, so I'd be careful using the charger you mention. You might want to do some more research on it, or contact the company about it.
I'm not an expert but my opinion is that usually USB-Wall charger supplies up to 1000 mAh (written on power supply transformer) while the USB-OutPC is only 500 mAh, in fact, I've noticed that the full charge of my Titan takes double the time if charged via PC.
Not sure about the amount supplied by cars USB adapter.
...my two amperes...
Some of the chargers accomplish support for things like the iPad 2 by shorting the two USB connectors. Some advertise things like 2000ma, but fail to deliver much more than 500ma. I am not sure if this is due to the choice of shorting out the data connectors to trick your phone in to thinking it is plugged in to the wall.
Back in the WM 6.5 days, you could accomplish this at the phone driver level and did not need to modify your chargers.
I would not worry about trying something rated higher as your phone would regulate the current. I personally intend to do my experimentation by shorting out the cable rather than the charger (cables are more easily replaced). Unfortunately, there is no app for WP7 that can measure the charging current, so the only way to do this scientifically is to use the battery status app and measuring the charge rate over time.
If you do the mod, post back and let us know. When I get around to the USB cable experiment, I will post back as well.
I've searched high and low, and can't believe it's not a bigger issue on our device ( and many other deivces).
I have usb 3.0 ports (spec says 900mA max draw). So I should someway be able to achieve these higher rates of charging...
Is the issue the rezound not asking for more from the USB Host? Or is the issue my usb host driver not giving more?
I'm led to believe it's the rezound...
It can't stream 4g, and play full screen video and at least maintain it's charge off of USB.
I really want to resolve this.
The Rezound is a USB 2 device. As such, it can't request more than 5 USB 2.0 unit loads (=500 mA). It will draw more from a proper USB charging port.
Someone in another thread turned me on to this cable:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VYBCAY/ref=oh_o00_s00_i02_details
It forces an AC charge on chargers that were showing up as USB (i.e. iphone charger). I imagine it'll do the same thing from any USB port... I believe it shorts the center pins within the cable.
It's sort of an expensive cable... but I plan on getting at least one more. Too many cheap chargers don't give AC, and this phone NEEDS it.
That's not how USB works (if properly implemented). A USB 2.0 port shouldn't deliver more than 100 mA, unless the attached device enumerates (has an actual USB conversation), in which case it may deliver up to 500 mA. The numbers are a bit higher for USB 3.0, but same concept. That cable (which violates USB specs) makes the phone think it's connected to a charging port. It would work fine with a real USB charger (but isn't a good idea, anyway). It will cause the phone to try and draw more than a USB data port can deliver. If used with a USB device which follows the spec, it will be worse than a regular data cable, and the device will only provide 100 mA. Best case, the phone might charge a bit faster than with a regular USB cable, worst case, you screw up the device you're charging from.
Better to just get a proper charger which follows the spec. You can get an OEM 1A charger through Amazon for like $7, cable included. Why screw around with questionable, non-standard stuff?
mike.s said:
The Rezound is a USB 2 device. As such, it can't request more than 5 USB 2.0 unit loads (=500 mA). It will draw more from a proper USB charging port.
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If this is the case, then I get it.. and I'll ask...
what's taking so long for these devices to be usb 3.0 compliant? it's not like the standard was set yesterday
ah well... another year or three i guess!
thatsricci said:
If this is the case, then I get it.. and I'll ask...
what's taking so long for these devices to be usb 3.0 compliant? it's not like the standard was set yesterday
ah well... another year or three i guess!
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Click to collapse
It is because they haven't fully utilized the speeds of USB 2.0 by any means what so ever.
That and USB 3.0 is, in fact, fairly new, and with all new technologies it costs money.
Your $300, or $200 depending on when you bought it, phone would probably be an extra $100 - $200 with USB 3.0 technology, which itself is really only like USB 2.0.1 speeds at best.
Sent from the resounding Rezound
USB 2.0 does 480 Mbps "raw," real world, closer to 320Mbps (40 MBps).
That's faster than LTE can provide, and it's faster than a Class 10 SD card, which are the two fastest/most data intensive uses for USB on a phone. There's absolutely no need to add the cost of USB 3.0 to a phone at this time.
Charging when plugged into a PC is a convenience. Use a dedicated USB charger if you want performance. You can get such a charger, either AC or car, for less than $10. There's simply no problem here.
Speed was never what I was interested in, but charging for sure is.
It's convenient, especially when I'm on the go to use my laptop (which has an extended battery) and my phone at the same time (tethering/streaming) and it's nicer if the phone could charge/maintain it's battery level while doing what I need it to do! Even a dedicated charging port on the laptop that can power while the laptop is turned off should be able to give me max charge, so when I plug it in and drive down the road I get a good charge instead of a so so usb charge.
I'm more than willing to pay for this convenience I do carry the wall wart charger in my bag too for those times when I do need a fast charge, but it's silly to me that I need to use two plugs at the coffee shop... I suppose I could also carry an ac plug splitter, but yeah, now i'm just carrying more with me!
Edit: case closed though, now I understand why we can't get max charge from usb 3.0 ports, because it's the device specs that are limited. Stay Calm, carry on, I'll live!