Many from this site may have purchased a BlutO case. It is a case with a bluetooth keyboard in it.
There seems to be a problem with the USB charging cable. Mine does not charge the keyboard when plugged into a USB port of my netbook. The seller of these has contacted his supplier about this. In the meantime, I have read that a similar cable made for an Apple product will work. If someone can post more specific details on this, it would help.
I am using the BlutO on stock Tap'nTap firmware (4349). I installed the recommended BlueInput app to handle the bluetooth keyboard. When I went to Settings>Language & keyboard, it showed the Blueinput with an unchecked box. Selecting it does not put a check in the box.
I experienced the same thing when trying to install an alternate keyboard in a stock firmware. The problem is that the keyboard apps install in the /data/app folder. A keyboard app must be installed in the /system/app folder. The solution to this is to copy teksoft.blueinput-1.apk from the /data/app folder into the /system/app folder. You need to use a file manager where you can change the /system/app folder to R/W. I use Root Explorer.
After copying the app, delete the original in /data/app, then reboot.
To enable the bluetooth keyboard, first select the search icon on the right side (the magnifying glass). Long-press the search bar and a message "Edit text: Input method" will appear. Select "Input method", and a screen showing available input methods pops up. If the BlueInput app is installed, it should show as a choice. Select it and enjoy the keyboard. Use the same method to switch back to the Tap 'n Tap keyboard, or install other keyboard apps using this same method.
ENJOY!!
wasserkapf said:
Many from this site may have purchased a BlutO case. It is a case with a bluetooth keyboard in it.
There seems to be a problem with the USB charging cable. Mine does not charge the keyboard when plugged into a USB port of my netbook. The seller of these has contacted his supplier about this. In the meantime, I have read that a similar cable made for an Apple product will work. If someone can post more specific details on this, it would help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was the first to report this issue and the workaround to Steve; I am using the usb cable for my iPod Touch (the connector for the iPod is the same as the connector for the keyboard) and it works just fine. If you have an iPod or iPhone the usb cable for that device should work on the keyboard without any issues.
I have investigated this further. The end of the cable that plugs into the keyboard comes apart fairly easily. Here is a picture, but I did not take note of the orientation of the white symbol on the outside before I took it apart (sorry).
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I used the information on an Apple cable, from here:
http://forums.ilounge.com/ipod-monochrome/59754-usb-cable-pinout-someone-usb-cable-please-help.html
It appears that this cable is the same as the one in that thread. He does have the USB pinouts backwards, they should be this:
1 -> 8 (red) 5VDC+
2 -> 6 (white) Data-
3 -> 4 (green) Data+
4 -> 15 (black) Ground
EDIT: I just noticed that this doesn't match the picture!!
I plugged mine into a USB port on my netbook, and checked the cable. It does have 5VDC at the back of the connector. My probes (and my fingers) are too big to measure the actual pins in the front of the connector. So I still don't know why this doesn't work.
i just noticed. My picture doesn't match the pinouts that I listed below it!!
It looks like the red (5VDC+) and white (Data-) wires are swapped!! This may be why it doesn't work.
I swapped the red and white wires, and now the keyboard will charge!
Since the cable has the two Data wires connected, I suspect that this keyboard could also be used as a USB keyboard. I hope that the mis-wiring didn't damage that ability.
I tried it as a USB keyboard, and it isn't recognized by my netbook. Can someone who didn't have trouble with the cable try it as a USB keyboard, and see if it works?
Now that I have everything fixed, I can no longer get the keyboard to work.
I think that it is the BlueInput app that is not working correctly.
Are you trying to use the keyboard while it's connected with the USB cable? That may be confusing things because the tablet will accept input from a USB keyboard.
I have the keyboard working wirelessly with BlueInput. Haven't messed with the charging cable yet.
999ping said:
Are you trying to use the keyboard while it's connected with the USB cable? That may be confusing things because the tablet will accept input from a USB keyboard.
I have the keyboard working wirelessly with BlueInput. Haven't messed with the charging cable yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, in fact i have tried to use it that way, and it doesn't work. I think that the mis-wired cable may have damaged that.
I have re-installed BlueInput, and copied it to the /system/app folder. I can select it as an input method, but typing on it now in Search gives me nothing. And if I try to switch back it won't let me, I have to reboot to switch back to the TnT keyboard. This doesn't seem right.
When I go into the Settings->Wireless & networks->Bluetooth settings, It shows the keyboard "Paired but not connected". I deleted that connection and went back to Blueinput and scanned. It connected again, and FINALLY it worked again in the Search bar. This time the Settings section shows nothing. When I tried using it inside of the browser, it didn't work again. It seems to loose the connection very quickly. I am then unable to establish the connection again.
999ping said:
I have the keyboard working wirelessly with BlueInput. Haven't messed with the charging cable yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a gtab with tnt Lite v4.4.0 and have installed bluetooth keyboard easy connect. I go to the Settings/wireless&networks/bluetooth settings, press connect on keyboard (flashing blue light), scan for devices & select bluetooth keyboard (pair with this device). Then get popup "bluetooth pairing request". have tried 0000 1111 1234 and various combinations.
When pairing with my netbook they keyboard sends a numeric code for me to enter which allows it to pair. So with Android, what is different? What am I doing wrong??
Bluto keyboard not working
I received my Bluto keyboard a couple of days ago and can not get it to connect to the gTablet. I am running TnTLite 4.2.4. I could not get it to work using the bluetooth software on the tablet (I also get "paired but not connected" message). I then installed the BlueInput software and it still doesn't work. When I type on the keyboard, I do get a clicking sound on the gTablet, however, no typed characters show up on the gTablet screen. The charging cable that came with the keyboard also did not work, but I used an iPod to USB cable and that worked ok for charging the keyboard. I did not expect a problem in connecting the keyboard to the gTablet -- it shouldn't be this hard to make work. There should be some software or at least some instructions that came with the keyboard. I sent an e-mail to the company that sold me the keyboard and so far have not received a response.
wasserkapf said:
When I go into the Settings->Wireless & networks->Bluetooth settings, It shows the keyboard "Paired but not connected". I deleted that connection and went back to Blueinput and scanned. It connected again, and FINALLY it worked again in the Search bar. This time the Settings section shows nothing. When I tried using it inside of the browser, it didn't work again. It seems to loose the connection very quickly. I am then unable to establish the connection again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update: I am now seeing similar behavior on mine. I suspect the keyboard batteries were shipped in a minimally charged state and I exhausted what was left in the process of connecting it up and testing.
AzWiz said:
I have a gtab with tnt Lite v4.4.0 and have installed bluetooth keyboard easy connect. I go to the Settings/wireless&networks/bluetooth settings, press connect on keyboard (flashing blue light), scan for devices & select bluetooth keyboard (pair with this device). Then get popup "bluetooth pairing request". have tried 0000 1111 1234 and various combinations.
When pairing with my netbook they keyboard sends a numeric code for me to enter which allows it to pair. So with Android, what is different? What am I doing wrong??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As I recall, I simply typed 0000 when prompted for the code.
tallerguy said:
I received my Bluto keyboard a couple of days ago and can not get it to connect to the gTablet. I am running TnTLite 4.2.4. I could not get it to work using the bluetooth software on the tablet (I also get "paired but not connected" message). I then installed the BlueInput software and it still doesn't work. When I type on the keyboard, I do get a clicking sound on the gTablet, however, no typed characters show up on the gTablet screen. The charging cable that came with the keyboard also did not work, but I used an iPod to USB cable and that worked ok for charging the keyboard. I did not expect a problem in connecting the keyboard to the gTablet -- it shouldn't be this hard to make work. There should be some software or at least some instructions that came with the keyboard. I sent an e-mail to the company that sold me the keyboard and so far have not received a response.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you get that clicking sound but no characters, you have a connection and blueinput is registering your keystrokes but it is not currently set up as your input method in Android. Tap on any text input field with your finger to engage the edit mode, then press and hold your finger in the editable area. After a couple of seconds, you should get a popup window with a list of available input methods. Select blueinput and then back out. (There is no [Ok] button)
Now you should have clicks and characters when you press a key. You can repeat this at any time to change your input method e.g. when you want to use the on-screen keyboard.
999ping said:
Update: I am now seeing similar behavior on mine. I suspect the keyboard batteries were shipped in a minimally charged state and I exhausted what was left in the process of connecting it up and testing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was able to charge mine, after changing the wiring on the supplied cable. I don't believe that is what is causing the disconnections.
This may not work on stock firmware, or firmware derived from stock (TnT lite). Has anybody tried it on a Vegan firmware?
I just now tried mine with the charge cable plugged in and while the charge light does not stay illuminated, the keyboard does now stay connected and active.
Perhaps the cable is correctly wired and this is an issue with the charge light?
I am asking Steve about this in email.. will post back if/when I learn more.
wasserkapf said:
I was able to charge mine, after changing the wiring on the supplied cable. I don't believe that is what is causing the disconnections.
This may not work on stock firmware, or firmware derived from stock (TnT lite). Has anybody tried it on a Vegan firmware?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use the non-meat eater
I'm not too sure about random disconnections but I do know that I have to re-pair each time I want to use a BT device. I quit using the blueinput and use a script that I just run each time for my mouse and it works every time. it basically finds the MAC address of the BT device then you manually attach it. Once you know that it works you can use gscript or script manager (market) to write it and 'one click run' since the MAC will never change
This can be done through ADB or directly on a rooted tab; the following is done directly on the tab. If you want ADB instructions just lemmie know.
You will need: ROOT, a file explorer that will change permissions, terminal (market), gscript or script manager (market)
- Download this zip, extract, and use root explorer (or other method) to place the three files in /system/xbin
- Change the permissions for all three files to 4755 (in root explorer its the three left and three top checked)
*** Turn on BT on TAB / Select connect on BT device ***
(what you type is in RED)
- open Terminal and type su (to make sure you have superuser permissions)
# cd /system/xbin (get you to the right directory)
To test that your binaries are working, you can type hciconfig and it will show you something like the following including the MAC address of your bt radio.
Code:
# hciconfig
hci0: Type: UART
BD Address: 00:1A:13:0F:88:12 ACL MTU: 1021:6 SCO MTU: 64:1
UP RUNNING PSCAN
RX bytes:14752 acl:325 sco:0 events:729 errors:0
TX bytes:4851 acl:33 sco:0 commands:263 errors:0
Then use the hcitool to get the MAC address of your keyboard (you only have to do this once).
Code:
# hcitool scan
Scanning ...
00:07:61:4B7:CE Logitech diNovo Keyboard
once you know the MAC address of the keyboard you want to connect, create a little script (I use gscript for ease of use) that connects the device using the hidd binary. then verify you are connected.
Code:
# hidd --connect 00:07:61:4B7:CE (your MAC)
# hcitool con
Connections:
< ACL 00:07:61:4B7:CE handle 12 state 1 lm MASTER
Voila. you don't have to change input device or anything - you can use the bt keyboard interchangeably with the soft keyboard.
credit to prscott who posted this quite some time ago and I've used it religiously.
Thanks, Steve, I'll have to give that a try.
I see that those are basically Linux commands. I know a lot about wireless connections in Linux, but I never had any need to learn about Bluetooth in Linux. That is until now.
A link for those still having BlueInput issues is here
Hopefully this will help come
How do we know if the keyboards are charging? Are we getting replacements or do we need to do that on our own?
I think that the light should be solid when charging. Replacement cales are on the way (should be here wednesday). I would recommend grabbin a $5 iPod cable at Ross or Marshalls for those who dont want to wait
Related
OK, I searched for: "U8150 Bluetooth keyboard" (without the quotes) and came up with a LOT of results, mostly not relevant to what I'm looking for. If this is the wrong place to post this please advise, but there doesn't seem to be a specific forum for the Huawei Ideos U8150.
Walking around a local shopping centre recently, asking questions at several phone shops, I'm left astonished at how little the staff in general seem to know about the extensibility of android phones.
Like probably thousands of people around Australia I took advantage of a recent Aldi promo and bought an Ideos U8150 for 60 bucks. It's my first SmartPhone and I'm delighted with the features and value for money.
But the big problem is my fat fingers, and I bet I'm not alone there. Surely there must be a LOT of SmartPhone owners who want a better keyboard — an external one that you can actually type on without constantly hitting the adjacent key. A Bluetooth mini keyboard is the obvious answer.
Not having found any actual recommendations for an external keyboard to use with the Ideos U8150, I purchased and experimented with a couple of them.
First try was with a Kaiser Baas BT-130, a really mini keyboard.
Second attempt was with an Acer Iconia A500/A100. This one is about two thirds normal keyboard size.
Results were pretty much the same with both: It's easy to initiate Bluetooth connectivity, but sending keystrokes to the phone only "sort of" works under certain circumstances.
I'm afraid its a bit long-winded, but I'll detail my experience in case one of you more experienced tech types are able to take it further.
See next post for details.
CONTINUED...
I'll describe for the Kaiser Baas BT-130, but it's pretty much the same for the Acer as well.
Here are the procedures I have followed...
PROCEDURE #1
Starting with both phone and BT-130 keyboard powered OFF (keyboard is fully charged), turn both devices ON. The status bar at the top of the phone screen indicates Bluetooth is enabled.
Press and hold the BT-130 Bluetooth button until the blue light flashes.
In the phone's standard Bluetooth settings I make the device Discoverable, then click "Scan for Devices".
An entry in the phone's menu is displayed for "BlueTooth Wireless Keyboard", with a prompt to "Pair with This Device".
On clicking "Pair with This Device" I get a dialog that reads:
"Bluetooth pairing request. Type PIN to pair with Bluetooth wireless keyboard. (Try 0000 or 1234)".
Huh??? PIN???
After entering 0000 or 1234 or anything else, the entry for Bluetooth Wireless Keyboard reads "pairing..." for a while, then a dialog appears which reads "Attention. Pairing rejected by Bluetooth Wireless Keyboard."
Suspecting that this might be something to do with the absence of support for HID keyboards, I installed the BlueInput app from Teksoftco, then proceeded with...
PROCEDURE #2
This time, instead of going into the phone's standard Bluetooth settings as described above, I run the BlueInput app.
I select BlueInput's Scan button, and an entry appears for:
- Bluetooth Wireless Keyboard
- DC:2C:26:AF:EE:73
- Discovered
The blue light is still flashing on the BT-130, but when I press on the "Bluetooth Wireless Keyboard" item on the phone (just described above), the keyboard's blue light goes out (as it should for successful connection), and the message appears on the phone "Connected to Bluetooth Wireless Keyboard".
Then another message appears "Hint: before using BlueInput go to Android settings, Language & Keyboard, and make sure that ONLY BlueInput is checked". Also, now in place of Discovered the word Connected appears.
So I obediently go to Android settings --> Language & Keyboard, and yes, BlueInput is the only item checked.
PROOF OF CONNECTIVITY
As further proof there actually is connectivity between the two devices at this stage, pressing any key on the BT-130 keyboard results in an audible feedback click on the phone, but no letters/numbers from the keystrokes appear in any text input field of any phone app. However...
The BlueInput app provides a test screen for testing keyboard input, and I could, with restrictions, type into BlueInput's test screen from the keyboard.
The restrictions are that any keys other than the unshifted-alpha/numerics, spacebar and un-shifted punctuation produce a dollar sign ($) on the phone screen. Even pressing ESC, Tab, Caps, Shift, Enter, Backspace and any function key on the BT-130 keyboard produced a dollar sign on the BlueInput test screen.
But that's only in the BlueInput test screen. With any other text input field no characters appear at all, although the phone does always emit the audible keypress click-sound (because I have that feature enabled).
---------------------------
So I returned the Kaiser Baas BT-130 keyboard and brought home the Acer Iconia TAB A500/A100 series.
Not much to say, other than "See above". Pretty much exactly the same procedures and results as for the Kaiser Baas keyboard, so I returned it also.
---------------------------
I earlier had tried Kaiser Baas support but they were unable to help. Later on I received an update from the Technical Support Manager at Kaiser Baas, who stated as follows:
"...the phone/tablet must have hardware HID support, not software based. I have a Samsung Galaxy tab here purchased from HK. Our keyboards will connect but I cannot type with it. I found from Samsung, that the Galaxy tab sold in HK does not support HID devices, hence why it doesn't work. I would say that the Huawei phone has the same issue."
---------------------------
So there it is. Unless you guys have a suggestion, I can't see it is even worthwhile trying more keyboards, because it looks like I'm going to keep running into the HID support problem.
Hey why bother connecting a keyboard to 8150 for its small screen (320x240)? I wouldn't doubt if ppl like to connect keyboards with large screen devices, but for this one (I own this machine too), I'd prefer using "remote web desktop" which includes wifi keyboard feature.
Louis
Thanks for bringing Web Desktop to my attention -- I'm sure I'll be able to make use of it somewhere along the line.
However, it's not a solution to my desire for an external keyboard. A mini keyboard is very easy to fit in a briefcase, overnight bag or backpack, and can make the phone much more functional and usable when on the move. For some tasks these SmartPhones can replace a computer, but rapid text input is a problem.
I use Dragon NaturallySpeaking on my PC all the time for input, but in my experience voice input on SmartPhones is cool and useful, but not up to the level of Dragon.
Really need a keyboard connection.
How about micro USB keyboards, you don't need bluetooth pairing then.
louisli said:
How about micro USB keyboards, you don't need bluetooth pairing then.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...but you need a custom rom that support that.
USB host Keyboard in Dronix, watch this !
I wanted a bt keyboard too, but maybe I'll wait for this
I have a weird problem with my SGSII. If i connect my phone to my car bluetooth with the car charger, it stay connected for as long as I am in the car. If however i connect to the car on battery, once the screen turns off I lose bluetooth connect. I have tried changing the screen time and that didn't work, I also tried making my bluetooth visable always and that also didn't work. Can't understand why it only happens while on battery.
Any suggestions?
I have the same issue with bluetooth on my SII.
Whenever the screen is asleep bluetooth devices will not connect, I have to turn the screen on to allow the devices to connect.
I've setup auto pairing in the linkkeys file which works fine if the screen is on (so no prompts to pair devices, just works).
The main device I want to use is a liveview, which I understand has problems, but I've tested other devices and the phone seems to be at fault.
It can't be designed that bluetooth will only connect if your using your phone, kinda defeats the purpose of most bt devices.
tried making my phone always visible, and even tried disabling the lock screens.
using CM7 stable, and a fix would be highly appreciated!
Hmmm.... I don't have that problem.
Maybe some weird power save option?
that's what I was thinking, but I've not been able to find any settings on the phone or through google.
I've just updated to the latest cm7 nightly and the problem seems to be the same. It has an addition bluetooth setting called 'Fast Connections' but this doesn't seem to change anything.
The only other thing I've noticed is that the linkkeys file that I edited to allow the liveview to auto pair (without me having to pull down the notification bar nad authorise it) seems to keep re-editing the file so the phone prompts to pair, so I'm assuming now that's the issue rather than a power thing, so how to prevent that?
Hi guys,
My screen recently died. Before fixing it at a specialized shop, I want to retrieve the data from the phone. Sadly the phone is pattern-locked and until I unlock it I can't access the data when I connect it to my PC. The screen is essentially dead. The image is almost totally black except for small layer in left top corner and the touch sensor is unresponsive, but other than that the phone works and receives notifications and so on.
USB Debugging mode isn't active on the phone and thus I can't replicate the screen of the phone on my PC through software alone, when I connect it via micro-USB. I also didn't think of this problem in advance and I'm not registered on Sony's FindMyMobile or any similar apps.
I tried using a HDMI-MHL adapter and I confirmed that the phone is indeed working because I'm able to get the phone screen's image on my TV. The problem is I can't actually interact with the phone because as I said earlier the touch sensor is not working.
The HDMI-MHL adapter I've used also seems to have a micro-USB port but that seems to work for power only. If I connect a USB-OTG cable on it and connect a USB mouse to it I get image but no mouse. If I connect the USB-OTG and the mouse, alone, I get a mouse cursor but I can't see what I'm doing (phone vibrates as I 'try' and draw the unlock-pattern blindly).
So, Sony Xperia Z3 Compact screen is dead, I wanna connect my Xperia to my TV via HDMI AND use a mouse at the same time to control my phone. Is this possible_
I also thought of another option... go to recovery mode and flash a zip that removes lock. I thought of trying step by step (switch keyboard and TV al the time just to get at point where I can find zip file and flash it). Unfortunately in recovery mode the phone does not allow to stream to TV. It only works when phone is after SIM lock.
Two additions: by removing and re-installing ADB on my laptop my phone is unauthorized. Only a matter of clicking on yes/allow on phone but that's not possible and TWRP 3.1.1-0 is installed.
Anyone any clue? I know I ask a lot but I'm searching the internetz for 2 days now and I'm devistated.
THNX a great bunch!!!
ciao
Valentijm
PS Copy/paste a part of the text from a guy from the internet who had exactly the same problem as I did but his thread ended a few months ago without result.
Just 30 minutes after my post I magically had all the dots correct and that blind!!! So turned on USB debugging and got rid of lock pattern. It was a nice three days of my life Guess there was no solution than getting lucky like I did or screen replacement and getting all your data removed.
ciao
Greetings fellow techno-wizards! Got a big problem that I'm hoping you can help me with.
Long story short, my trusty Pixel 2 had one too many drops, now the screen won't turn on and won't respond to touch. The logic board is operating, and I haven't rebooted since then, so I can unlock with the fingerprint sensor.
I plan on getting an Pixel 5 when it releases, and have an LTE Tablet to limp along until then.
My biggest problem is authenticators on my phone that I may or maynot have the backup QR code for, as well as many other things I'd like to get off the phone before I retire it.
I have the following things at my disposal:
Pixel 2, with USB Debugging turned on, and recently trusted the PC. No screen, no touchscreen.
WearOS watch paired to phone (can get notifications and texts)
Bluetooth Mouse
Wired mouse with USB to USB C adapter
Chromecast
Win PC with Scrcpy installed, already tried to use it to show the screen on the PC, I'm guessing its been too long and I have to press a notification to trust the PC.
The Goal:
To cast the screen to a chromecast and pair a bluetooth mouse, and/or get Scrcpy working by accepting the dialog that I can't see. This would allow me to use the migrate tool to the new phone I will eventually get.
I tried long ago to use a USB C to HDMI adapter, that doesn't work. Google wants you to use a Chromecast for such things (Thanks a ton Google )
The thing I need to figure out next is how to use ADB to force the phone to start casting to a Chromecast, or to remotely accept the dialog. The wired mouse with adapter should work to control the phone instead of the touchscreen, but without any video out, I'm clicking blindly. The microphones are working, but I've never tried to command the assistant to start casting before.
Can anyone suggest the next step I should try?
Just had a thought, there are accessibility features for blind people that would let them use the screen without seeing it. Is there any ADB command to enable these features? If I plug in a keyboard, is there a keystroke combination to turn them on?
TheGeek007 said:
Just had a thought, there are accessibility features for blind people that would let them use the screen without seeing it. Is there any ADB command to enable these features? If I plug in a keyboard, is there a keystroke combination to turn them on?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since you say ADB is enabled on the phone you should be able to pull out by means of ADB-driver the data in mind to your Windows computer.
Try Method 2 only if you're sure your Remote has no problem and is connected properly. First is trying to determine the course of action. If you just bricked it. Then there's nothing you can do unless you take it to the care center or if you had adb enabled then you can force it into fast boot look after connecting it to your pc. That will be in another post. For now troubleshooting it is our concern.
So you have tried to use the TV Box and you can't force it to go into recovery mode neither have you had any luck with the usb stick update.
Method 1:
The problem is Mi TV Box won't boot and will infinitely boot loop unless the paired remote is connected. So most likely the boot loop is caused as the remote and tv box isn't communicating. Your remote may either be damaged or need a change of batteries or may have been unpaired/disconnected after the update.
So grab a USB mouse or USB Keyboard. Try mouse click and there will be a blank screen. Wait for 5-10 minutes. It takes time to load or is simply slower when disconnected from the remote.
Some keyboards don't work. But if they do, keep pressing either Esc or Enter till the Bootloop ends and brings you to a blank screen. Be patient and use a mouse/keyboard arrow keys to navigate to settings and Remote & Accessories. Then select Xiaomi RC and click on Unpair. The Battery % will be shown if it was connected properly. So then re-pair the remote and then restart. You can restart by holding the power button till the power menu pops up. That's it and that's all. Be careful since both Mi TV and Mi TV Boxes will not make it past the boot screen unless the paired or stock remote is connected properly. You can't find a totally working replacement/spare remote since the remote and the tv box are one unit and if either is damaged or has a manufacturing defect, it can't be easily replaced. As both have sort of link. So suppose you buy two Mi TV 4K Boxes and use both at the same time. The remotes will pair up and be forever linked to one particular at the time of set up. You can't randomly change it after that. Exceptions are always there but this is the case for the most part. Or so I believe it to be.
Method 2: If the above method didn't fix it. The issue is software related. You may need to perform a hard reset using either the recovery or get a keyboard with the same or equivalent combination of keys you'll use on the remote. Considering the remote not working or unable to boot into recovery using the remote. If possible get two people to do the recovery sequence on the remote. Since the remote is good quality and sensitivity for button press. Then load up the stable or latest beta update available onto a pen drive. Make sure that the update package is renamed to update.zip. Before installing Wipe/Reset All Data and it'll ask for confirmation. Confirm it and then proceed to install update.zip. The Pen Drive used may also result in success or failure. So use a reliable know good USB 3.0/2.0 stick. SanDisk gave me issues. I had to re-install thrice to get it to work properly. Also don't use sizes above 16 GB. Upto 32 GB is supported. And it may support external harddisk drives but the format is to be kept in mind. Any pendrive larger than 32 GB comes out of the box with either NTFS or exFAT File System Format. So check that before you put the update on it.