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I have an unlocked Tmobile MDA using a Cingular SIM. I recently purchased an aluminum case (boxwave, PDair, I think they are all the same) to replace the free case. I love the aluminum case in every way except 1. The cell phone reception is MUCH worse with the phone in the case. I have read others get a 1 bar decrease, but in mildly weak areas (2 bars or less), the aluminum case kills the signal. I have actually missed calls. Even when the signal is OK, the case appears to degrade the sound quality over my Moto HS810 headset.
My question is, is their anything I can do about it (and keep the case)? Specifically, can I install an antenna that I can attach to the phone and have it glued to the outside of the case? Or, if I were to cut away part of the aluminum, where should I cut to maximize my reception while minimizing my modification? Has anyone else experienced this problem, and if they have what did they do to resolve it.
I love the case and would hate to part with it. I use it with my BT GPSr and the plexiglass allows me to see the screen without opening the case. My only problem is I forget to open the case sometimes and tap on the plexiglass .
Any help would be appreciated.
I don't have a wizard, but most phone will have an option for an external antenna. Look at the back of your phone, and see if there is a round rubber thing that is around 1cm in diameter. That's most probably a connector for an external antenna. I guess you have a connector out from there and take it out of your case or possibly use your case as an antenna. BUT, I'm not sure how dangerous will it be consider the radiation having direct contact with your body.
There are some threads here that mentioned external antenna, whom a user used to get reception for his room/office that is underground.
Are you sure?
I am using a similar case for my phone too, they are very useful and practical. But I did not face any problems of signal drop. Are you sure its not something else? Unfortunately this case does not have an opening for the external antena point of the phone. You might have to drill one.
I'm getting terrible reception in that case, too. The signal improves when I take the phone out of my pocket- so maybe it is the height or other obstructions?
Hmm. I might have to try a different case.
I too have the PDAir alu case. Definitely makes BT reception worse.
With my previous Himalaya I used to have a clearcase. No probs with that.
Would like that again for the Wizard, but afaik its not available.
Case Logic?
Hi there. I also have one of these aluminum cases. Your problems never occured to me. I've just fixed other problems thanks to this web site and the ROM developers.
For some reason reception for me on Cingular's network has never really been a problem before. I will keep my eyes open for this new development you all discovered.
Thanks for the heads up.
Case Logic?
Hi there. This is going to seem odd. My HTC Wizard worked great when I got it. I got an aluminum case for it and it seems that's around when my phone lockup problems seems to have started. Between that and installing the wrong version of Good. Long story short, I took the phone out of the aluminum case last night and as of now (about 12 hours) the phone hasn't frozen at all. I just completed installing latest Good on it and it's still working.
Is it really possible that all my phone freezing lockup problems are tied to the aluminum case? I've heard others complain about BT and dropped calls because of this case, but really. Anyone else heard of anything this bazaar?
Definately a problem with aluminum cases and the HTC G2 / Magic phone
OMG! I couldn't believe it but it is true, it appears that really is signal attenuation occurring with aluminum cases. I purchased this case: http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350252703148&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
In case the link no longer works, it is the "HTC G2 Monaco Black Aluminum Case" from ba66s. It is similar to the high quality aluminum case that I purchased for my HTC Touch phone. While the HTC Touch phone did not suffer from signal loss, my HTC Dream (same as G2) definately suffers from signal loss. There is quite a noticable difference between in the case and out of the aluminum case. So far, I have noticed that it primarily means the difference between having a data connection and not having one. I am wondering if it is the 3G network is is mostly affected?
I should point out that the problem is less severe in an area of very strong signal coverage (3 - 4 bars). But the estimated 20% signal loss is significant where there is already a marginal signal (1 - 3 bars max).
Again, my HTC Touch did not seem affected by the aluminum case.... is it b/c of a different signal frequency, or the placement of the antenna that is causing an issue with the Android phone?
Can a section of the aluminum case be cut out?
I really like my aluminum case.... and before I ask for an RMA, I am wondering if the case can be modified by cutting a section out. Can anyone tell me where the antenna is located on the HTC Magic / G2?
Hello everyone,
I don't have an aluminium case, but I'll share the little I know with you, maybe we can help each other.
I think that your alum case is, sometimes, acting as a Faraday cage, shielding the device from outside signals, as BT, radio, etc. The eletronic signals arrive on the case and disperse themselves there.
As I've readed, some people seem to have good signal after getting the phone off the alum case, that can point to an evidence of this effect.
I'm basing this on guitar shielding. I've done it several times and de concept is the same: shield the eletronic cavity with metalic material so outside interference doesn't introduce any noises to the sound.
Honestly, I would recommend clear cases, or rubber cases. The only option I can see now is to drill a hole and put an external antenna, or to cut the back-upper part of the case, thats where the antenna is located.
Cheers
Hello guys,
I need advice on whether I should dismantle my Blackstone, or should I just leave it to the pro? I want to change the housing as the current one's badly damaged but I dont want to pay big bucks for that.
As for myself, I have fair knowledge on these stuffs, as I have dismantled my previous HTC phones, ipods etc etc. However, the last time I tried to change the antenna cover of my Blackstone, I felt that it was rather difficult compared to the previous phones/devices I did. I ended up breaking the connecting latches on the old antenna cover. And I did follow the HTC Service Guide, which I think is not sufficient.
I couldn't find any video tutorials on dismantling the Blackstone. Could someone point me in the right direction please? Thanks a million
I just had to replace a damaged digitizer. i downloaded the service manual and it did help......a little! Basically, the main dissasembly was pretty straight forward, but the digitizer replacement was a nightmare!!! The LCD, Digitizer and front housing are basically fused together with an adhesive tape. Trying to remove the LCD from the digitizer was futile (broke the LCD). I had to basically replace the LCD and the Digitizer to make it all work again. The main problem with the new hardware is that you cannot get the stock replacement adhesive/tape so i had to use stuff from around the house.....i hope the diplay doesn't fall out of my phone. Anyway, got it eventualy working. Definately doable....but be careful not to touch the digitizer or LCD with your fingers.....whooops! Anyway, good luck.
swolkat said:
I just had to replace a damaged digitizer. i downloaded the service manual and it did help......a little! Basically, the main dissasembly was pretty straight forward, but the digitizer replacement was a nightmare!!! The LCD, Digitizer and front housing are basically fused together with an adhesive tape. Trying to remove the LCD from the digitizer was futile (broke the LCD). I had to basically replace the LCD and the Digitizer to make it all work again. The main problem with the new hardware is that you cannot get the stock replacement adhesive/tape so i had to use stuff from around the house.....i hope the diplay doesn't fall out of my phone. Anyway, got it eventualy working. Definately doable....but be careful not to touch the digitizer or LCD with your fingers.....whooops! Anyway, good luck.
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Thanks.
Hmm. Or maybe the problem was only me. I find it pretty hard to dig out the antenna cover from its latches. Maybe I was digging on the wrong spot. And thats why I was reluctant to continue further. Mind sharing how you "digged" the antenna cover?
Yeah, be careful with separating the LCD from the digitizer. I recently replaced the digitizer on mine. I agree with the antenna cover, I had some troubles with mine.
I used a old sim card to help pry the antennae cover off. Because my digitizer was cracked i was able to peel it off the lcd without the the lcd. Managed to use the old adhesive tape aswell.
Check out this thread - it might help you! There you will also find a link to a video some other user made, showing how the HD can be disassembled! But - as others already have said: I wouldnt recommend disassembling the screen unit! I too managed to destroy my LCD doing so! forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=462102
Thanks alot guys. Appreciate it.
video is in my signature. Changing the antenna cover is actually really easy once you have done it ... once or twice ;-)
OliveUK said:
video is in my signature. Changing the antenna cover is actually really easy once you have done it ... once or twice ;-)
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Hi, i also just made a couple of video - disassembly and reassembly - the inside of the HD is becoming a real star...
see
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=4950742&postcount=113
Hey, I searched, but I wasnt able to find anything specific
I took apart my G1 in order to fix a broken trackball. That was replaced properly, and everything is great, but then as I was putting it back together, I noticed I must have torn a milimeter long crack into the camera ribbon cable(The one going from the actual camera under the mylar HTC sticker and double sided tape)
This broke my camera, which now reboots everytime i try to use the camera. It's not a big deal, but now that I've taken apart my g1 once, I might as well try to fix it, but I cant find the part number or anything via ebay. When I search for G1 Camera Ribbon Cable or Flex Cable, only Iphone parts come up. Does anyone have a link?
Thanks!
at worst you could try soldering it... or sticking it with tape then "rebuilding" the path with a liquid metal pen.. (Never tried this tbh..)
I'm sorry to hear this, maybe you can replace your camera . you can order it from this website globaldirectparts.com and the search G1 parts.
ended up getting a g2...
although i fixed my g1 anyways, i ended up buying a broken g1 for cheaper than i could find the camera replacement
Since one main issue with the TF201 GPS and WiFi reception has been identified with the fact the all metal rear cover blocks the signals, is it possible to swap out the back cover of the TF201 with a cover from a TF700? The TF700 has a plastic strip in the location in question instead of the all metal back of the TF201.
Are they interchangeable parts? If so, where can I get one?
jismail said:
Since one main issue with the TF201 GPS and WiFi reception has been identified with the fact the all metal rear cover blocks the signals, is it possible to swap out the back cover of the TF201 with a cover from a TF700? The TF700 has a plastic strip in the location in question instead of the all metal back of the TF201.
Are they interchangeable parts? If so, where can I get one?
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No they are not interchangeable. If you are willing to take your prime apart to fix it then take a look at this http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29685066&postcount=1085
A quick list of all of my posts in that thread http://forum.xda-developers.com/search.php?searchid=96498367
So the glass screen on my Transformer Prime is shattered but the LCD and digitizer is 100% working. I've been doing research trying to find a replacement glass and I see there's version .3 and 1.0, Which one do I need? How can I tell? And does it matter? I thought I read somewhere that if you get ver 1.0 and the x-axis is backwards there is a way to re-calibrate the system.
I hope that you can send it back to asus or get bit fixed in a shop and it doesnt cost you too much money . but im here to tell you that its going to cost, that glass is expensive word to the wise do not break the TF201 glass because you may have to buy another tablet.
How handy are you? Are you able/willing to dis-assemble your Prime? If you don't think you have the skills-set, you will almost definitely break your Prime worse by trying to replace the digitzer yourself. If you *do* think you've got the skills, then it's merely probable that you'll break your Prime worse. I have replaced my digitizer and LCD, and it is not simple. The LCD is very VERY delicate when you disassemble.
You'll need to search the threads here for digizer replacement info. There's sufficient information. Short answer: You need to open your Prime and look at the digizer's ribbon cable. The version will be silkscreened on the mylar ribbon cable. This is how you will know if you have v0.3 or v1.0. Getting the wrong digitizer will invert the left/right when you replace. This will make using the touch-screen practically unusable. Fortunately, the vendor that I bought the wrong rev. of digitizer from was very willing to do a refund. I had the foresight to bench-test the new digitizer before trying to actually install.
I understand there's a firmware hack available to correct for the inversion if you get the wrong rev. of digitizer. I'm pretty certain you'll need to unlock and/or root your tab to apply this. I was not willing to do either to my Prime.
Once you get to the installation, you'll see that the digitizer and the LCD are in a sort of sandwich with a plastic bezel inbetween. The digizier is foam-taped (very sticky) to the bezel. The LCD is foam-taped (even more sticky) to the other side of the bezel. The bezel has spurs on it that connect to sliding locks accessible thru the docking port holes. This is what locks everything together.
When trying to remove what remains of your digitizer glass from the bezel, you run a substantial risk of breaking the LCD. Did I mention how friggn' fragile that thing is?
You might be better off just bying a bricked Prime and just swapping the entire screen. 'Problem with that is that you'll have a hard time knowing which rev of the digitizer will be on the unit you're buying. 'No easy way to know that I'm aware of. Perhaps Asus support can help you to figure out based on serial number or something... I dunno. I *do* know that Asus support sucks donkey-balls. I love my Prime but hate that company's post-sale support. (Wanted me to do an RMA to get replacement rubber feet for my dock).
Jgrimoldy said:
How handy are you? Are you able/willing to dis-assemble your Prime? If you don't think you have the skills-set, you will almost definitely break your Prime worse by trying to replace the digitzer yourself. If you *do* think you've got the skills, then it's merely probable that you'll break your Prime worse. I have replaced my digitizer and LCD, and it is not simple. The LCD is very VERY delicate when you disassemble.
You'll need to search the threads here for digizer replacement info. There's sufficient information. Short answer: You need to open your Prime and look at the digizer's ribbon cable. The version will be silkscreened on the mylar ribbon cable. This is how you will know if you have v0.3 or v1.0. Getting the wrong digitizer will invert the left/right when you replace. This will make using the touch-screen practically unusable. Fortunately, the vendor that I bought the wrong rev. of digitizer from was very willing to do a refund. I had the foresight to bench-test the new digitizer before trying to actually install.
I understand there's a firmware hack available to correct for the inversion if you get the wrong rev. of digitizer. I'm pretty certain you'll need to unlock and/or root your tab to apply this. I was not willing to do either to my Prime.
Once you get to the installation, you'll see that the digitizer and the LCD are in a sort of sandwich with a plastic bezel inbetween. The digizier is foam-taped (very sticky) to the bezel. The LCD is foam-taped (even more sticky) to the other side of the bezel. The bezel has spurs on it that connect to sliding locks accessible thru the docking port holes. This is what locks everything together.
When trying to remove what remains of your digitizer glass from the bezel, you run a substantial risk of breaking the LCD. Did I mention how friggn' fragile that thing is?
You might be better off just bying a bricked Prime and just swapping the entire screen. 'Problem with that is that you'll have a hard time knowing which rev of the digitizer will be on the unit you're buying. 'No easy way to know that I'm aware of. Perhaps Asus support can help you to figure out based on serial number or something... I dunno. I *do* know that Asus support sucks donkey-balls. I love my Prime but hate that company's post-sale support. (Wanted me to do an RMA to get replacement rubber feet for my dock).
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Thank for the help, I planned on buying the part and then taking it to a reputable shop that we have here on base to fix it. That way if they break it they can buy me a new one. They wanted $200 for parts and labor. But they said if I brought the glass they would do it for $50 and I asked the guy questions about the adhesive and he was knowledgeable with the TF201. I was seeing if there's a way I could save a few bucks but no big deal. I guess I'll just drop it off tomorrow.
Thank you everyone for the help!
This is A very interesting & helpful thread I hope that this can help someone else who has this problem. Please let us know of your TF201 gets fixed.
$50 is a good price to do the work for you. With what I know now, I'd have paid this to have it done by someone else. Still though, if you're going to buy the digitizer glass yourself, you're in the quandry of figuring out what rev. you need, v0.3 or v1.0. You really want to get the right one. Short of disassembling yourself to be able to examine the ribbon cable, options are few.
Perhaps you can call Asus Support, give them your serial number, and ask which rev your unit has. Perhaps they'll give you a truthful answer. Perhaps they wont.
'Not sure that your repair shop will be keen on the idea of opening your prime for you to identify then order the glass youself to undercut their $20(ish) margin on getting the glass for you.