So the glass screen on my Transformer Prime is shattered but the LCD and digitizer is 100% working. I've been doing research trying to find a replacement glass and I see there's version .3 and 1.0, Which one do I need? How can I tell? And does it matter? I thought I read somewhere that if you get ver 1.0 and the x-axis is backwards there is a way to re-calibrate the system.
I hope that you can send it back to asus or get bit fixed in a shop and it doesnt cost you too much money . but im here to tell you that its going to cost, that glass is expensive word to the wise do not break the TF201 glass because you may have to buy another tablet.
How handy are you? Are you able/willing to dis-assemble your Prime? If you don't think you have the skills-set, you will almost definitely break your Prime worse by trying to replace the digitzer yourself. If you *do* think you've got the skills, then it's merely probable that you'll break your Prime worse. I have replaced my digitizer and LCD, and it is not simple. The LCD is very VERY delicate when you disassemble.
You'll need to search the threads here for digizer replacement info. There's sufficient information. Short answer: You need to open your Prime and look at the digizer's ribbon cable. The version will be silkscreened on the mylar ribbon cable. This is how you will know if you have v0.3 or v1.0. Getting the wrong digitizer will invert the left/right when you replace. This will make using the touch-screen practically unusable. Fortunately, the vendor that I bought the wrong rev. of digitizer from was very willing to do a refund. I had the foresight to bench-test the new digitizer before trying to actually install.
I understand there's a firmware hack available to correct for the inversion if you get the wrong rev. of digitizer. I'm pretty certain you'll need to unlock and/or root your tab to apply this. I was not willing to do either to my Prime.
Once you get to the installation, you'll see that the digitizer and the LCD are in a sort of sandwich with a plastic bezel inbetween. The digizier is foam-taped (very sticky) to the bezel. The LCD is foam-taped (even more sticky) to the other side of the bezel. The bezel has spurs on it that connect to sliding locks accessible thru the docking port holes. This is what locks everything together.
When trying to remove what remains of your digitizer glass from the bezel, you run a substantial risk of breaking the LCD. Did I mention how friggn' fragile that thing is?
You might be better off just bying a bricked Prime and just swapping the entire screen. 'Problem with that is that you'll have a hard time knowing which rev of the digitizer will be on the unit you're buying. 'No easy way to know that I'm aware of. Perhaps Asus support can help you to figure out based on serial number or something... I dunno. I *do* know that Asus support sucks donkey-balls. I love my Prime but hate that company's post-sale support. (Wanted me to do an RMA to get replacement rubber feet for my dock).
Jgrimoldy said:
How handy are you? Are you able/willing to dis-assemble your Prime? If you don't think you have the skills-set, you will almost definitely break your Prime worse by trying to replace the digitzer yourself. If you *do* think you've got the skills, then it's merely probable that you'll break your Prime worse. I have replaced my digitizer and LCD, and it is not simple. The LCD is very VERY delicate when you disassemble.
You'll need to search the threads here for digizer replacement info. There's sufficient information. Short answer: You need to open your Prime and look at the digizer's ribbon cable. The version will be silkscreened on the mylar ribbon cable. This is how you will know if you have v0.3 or v1.0. Getting the wrong digitizer will invert the left/right when you replace. This will make using the touch-screen practically unusable. Fortunately, the vendor that I bought the wrong rev. of digitizer from was very willing to do a refund. I had the foresight to bench-test the new digitizer before trying to actually install.
I understand there's a firmware hack available to correct for the inversion if you get the wrong rev. of digitizer. I'm pretty certain you'll need to unlock and/or root your tab to apply this. I was not willing to do either to my Prime.
Once you get to the installation, you'll see that the digitizer and the LCD are in a sort of sandwich with a plastic bezel inbetween. The digizier is foam-taped (very sticky) to the bezel. The LCD is foam-taped (even more sticky) to the other side of the bezel. The bezel has spurs on it that connect to sliding locks accessible thru the docking port holes. This is what locks everything together.
When trying to remove what remains of your digitizer glass from the bezel, you run a substantial risk of breaking the LCD. Did I mention how friggn' fragile that thing is?
You might be better off just bying a bricked Prime and just swapping the entire screen. 'Problem with that is that you'll have a hard time knowing which rev of the digitizer will be on the unit you're buying. 'No easy way to know that I'm aware of. Perhaps Asus support can help you to figure out based on serial number or something... I dunno. I *do* know that Asus support sucks donkey-balls. I love my Prime but hate that company's post-sale support. (Wanted me to do an RMA to get replacement rubber feet for my dock).
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Thank for the help, I planned on buying the part and then taking it to a reputable shop that we have here on base to fix it. That way if they break it they can buy me a new one. They wanted $200 for parts and labor. But they said if I brought the glass they would do it for $50 and I asked the guy questions about the adhesive and he was knowledgeable with the TF201. I was seeing if there's a way I could save a few bucks but no big deal. I guess I'll just drop it off tomorrow.
Thank you everyone for the help!
This is A very interesting & helpful thread I hope that this can help someone else who has this problem. Please let us know of your TF201 gets fixed.
$50 is a good price to do the work for you. With what I know now, I'd have paid this to have it done by someone else. Still though, if you're going to buy the digitizer glass yourself, you're in the quandry of figuring out what rev. you need, v0.3 or v1.0. You really want to get the right one. Short of disassembling yourself to be able to examine the ribbon cable, options are few.
Perhaps you can call Asus Support, give them your serial number, and ask which rev your unit has. Perhaps they'll give you a truthful answer. Perhaps they wont.
'Not sure that your repair shop will be keen on the idea of opening your prime for you to identify then order the glass youself to undercut their $20(ish) margin on getting the glass for you.
Related
I'm in the process of repairing a TF201 with a cracked LCD (but perfect digitizer/glass, strangely), and was curious if anyone else has gone down this road before. I was able to source the stock Hannstar LCD to a couple auctions on ebay, and from there to the actual distributor. I've already ordered one, but shipping is going to be incredibly slow (currently deployed, mail is slow out here) so I don't have anything to show just yet. They did tell me that nobody sells the digitizer yet, which is disappointing.
So has anyone else successfully transplanted a new LCD into a TF201 yet?
USNGoat said:
I'm in the process of repairing a TF201 with a cracked LCD (but perfect digitizer/glass, strangely), and was curious if anyone else has gone down this road before. I was able to source the stock Hannstar LCD to a couple auctions on ebay, and from there to the actual distributor. I've already ordered one, but shipping is going to be incredibly slow (currently deployed, mail is slow out here) so I don't have anything to show just yet. They did tell me that nobody sells the digitizer yet, which is disappointing.
So has anyone else successfully transplanted a new LCD into a TF201 yet?
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I have not seen any recent posts about transplanting a new LCD into a TF201.
after seeing the tablet disassembled i quite honestly dont know how the digitizer and the LCD would come apart, it might be glued / fabricated as one part and sold as such. You could try prying it apart but honestly i think your better off returning it if you can or take it up with asus RMA (good luck), or at the very least have extra parts on hand when you try it.
Either way, its not looking promising.
Hi all, The Touchscreen will be very hard to source because the design will be owned and protected by Asus. If it’s like other tablets (with the exception of apple/ipads) the LCD will be freely available but the digitizer will be unavailable for a long time.
Here is an example of how it usually works. Asus need a touchscreen for tablet, they will contract a company like Panjit touchscreens (this is just an example, I am not sure who makes the prime's screen) to design and manufacture a touchscreen for them. Asus will own the design and Panjit will manufacture it and only supply it to Asus (the owner of the design). Asus will then unite the touchscreen and LCD in a sterile, dust free environment to ensure that no contaminants get between the 2 items (dust, finger prints, hair, trust me it's always a hair!). After the 2 units are together they can be handled and fitted easily (without gloves and in a normal dust filled environment). This is why they service the 2 items as 1.
To change them as one unit will take maybe half an hour. To change only one item (the LCD or Digitiser) would take at least 2 hours. It would require removing the old LCD/digitiser unit, separating the broken item from the unbroken one, cleaning the unbroken piece to remove any glue (this is usually just double sided tape but can be a pain to remove), I am not if the transformer is glued, I think its screwed down as some users have adjusted the screws to reduce light bleed), clean the new item (this will need cleaning too as clean is not clean enough for this job). They then need to unite the 2 items without getting contaminants between the 2 items (anything between the 2 is instantly noticeable and means starting again). When the LCD/Digitiser is together fitting them to the main unit is simple and will take about 15 minutes. But it's everything else that takes time, cut corners or rush and it will end up taking longer as it will need doing again.
It’s not impossible to change one item but it's very difficult and time consuming.
Hi,
It seem like there are a lot of people that has TF201s with broken screens, but very little information about how to DIY screen replacement, so I wanted to post my bad experience here as a warning to people, so that they know what they get into.
The screen on my TF201 cracked (dropped on the floor - only the screen was damaged, the LCD and digitizer still worked) so I searched around the web to find ways to replace the screen - without luck
I did find instructions on how to open the device and I also found original glass/digitizer replacement parts on eBay originating from China at about $100 so I took the chance and ordered a new screen. It arrived 2 weeks after and looked good.
With the instructions on how to disassemble the TF201 posted on this forum, it was quickly open and the glass/digitizer/LCD is one subassembly connected to the mainboard with two flex cables - one for the LCD and one for the digitizer.
Next step is to power off the system internally. There is a small internal switch in the lower left corner that you should switch to the off position. The LCD and digitizer cables can now be disconnected from the mainboard. The connectors open easily by putting a nail under the white frame of the correctors and pulling the frame up and then pull out the flex cables. You now have the glass/digitizer/LCD separated from the mainboard.
The LCD has a few screws to hold it to the plastic frame - these should be removed at this step. Mine only has two screws mounted although there is room for more (bad assembly quality or a fix for screen bleeding???)
Now comes the hard part and the part where I failed! There is a plastic frame around the edges of the glass that you need to remove and mount on the new glass. This plastic part holds all the taps that keep the tablet together and it is taped to the glass with some VERY sticky tape!
I used a scalpel to cut between the plastic and the glass with the result that the glass broke in tiny pieces as I went around, but as I saw no other way I kept going... It might have been better to use a heat gun or a hairblower to heat up the glue before trying to remove it, but I was worried that the LCD might be damaged by the heat.
The plastic frame has to be removed first to have access to the foam tape that is used to tape the LCD to the glass/digitizer. Once the plastic frame was off, I again used the knife to gently cut the foam tape (around 1 mm thick) all around the LCD screen so that this can be removed from the glass.
Here I might have made my second mistake. I was worried that I would cut too deep into the foam and hit the LCD screen, but the foam at the bottom of the screen is a little wider than the rest and as I tried to remove the screen I used too much force and might have damaged the LCD - the end result was that also the LCD was damaged in the process. The damage might also have been caused by me pressing too hard on the screen during the removal of the plastic frame (might actually be more likely as the glass was broken across the screen and the damage I was seeing when I turned on the screen was following the same line as the crack).
Well, I got the LCD off the broken screen and though I had been successful even thought it had taken a couple of hours to get there (I could not visually see that the LCD was damaged at this point).
Then on to the assembly with the new screen/digitizer! I had some double sided tape that I used to tape the screen to the plastic, but decided to do a quick test before I fully assembled the unit and this turned out to be a good idea!
I mounted the LCD screen with just the screws and connected the flex cables back into the connectors (these can be a little tricky to get in, so just be patient and keep wiggling them in and close the latches). I enabled the power again and pressed the power button and: DAMM - THE LCD IS BROKE!!!!
After wiggling a little with the LCD cable I was able to get a partial image, but it was evident that I had mishandled the LCD screen during the disassembly and I needed a new screen to get my tablet working again - now I was glad that I did not glue the LCD to the glass, so that I needed both a new LCD and a new glass/digitizer!
Off to the web to search for a replacement LCD screen... Hmm, lots of ebay listings for TF201 replacement LCDs, but none of them looked like the original I had... Then I searched for the partnumber on the LCD I took out (Hannstar HSD101PWW2 rev. 0-A00) and I did find a few items priced around $100.
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS ON THE DIGITIZER WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a way to do a 5 point screen calibration, but this does not seem to be supported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
Have anyone successfully replaced their screen - if so, could you reply with the partnumber listed on the flex cable? Mine is: 3KA12-5SCA01, 18100-10180100.
They did offer to refund the price of the screen if I shipped the screen back to them, but I will most likely damage the screen when trying to remove the plastic frame and it will cost me shipping the part back to China. After a few mails exchanges they offered a $82 refund and I accepted that.
I now have a TF201 with a working touch screen that has the x-axis inverted and no LCD...
Continued...
SUMMARY/LEARNING:
- IF YOUR SCREEN ONLY HAS A SMALL CRACK - LIVE WITH IT OR TRY TO FIX IT WITH AUTO GLASS REPAIR GLUE
- IF YOU REALLY WANT TO GO FOR DIY SCREEN REPLACEMENT, MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET A DIGITIZER THAT WORKS WITH YOUR UNIT!
- WHEN REMOVING THE PLASTIC FRAME FROM THE GLASS BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO DAMAGE THE LCD SCREEN BY PRESSING ON THE BROKEN GLASS AND TRY TO USE A HAIR DRYER TO HEAT UP THE GLUE (NOT TRIED THIS MYSELF)
- WHEN CUTTING THE FOAM TAPE BETWEEN THE LCD AND THE SCREEN BE VERY CAREFULL TO CUT THOUGH ALL THE TAPE BEFORE TRYING TO REMOVE THE LCD
I now have a TF201 with a working touch screen that has the x-axis inverted and no LCD... Unless I get the touch screen issue resolved I most likely will get a TF700 instead of my broken prime - I really loved the prime for the 4 months I had it working...
Happened to me too!
Bought a prime with an already cracked glass with the hope to fix it, as i do with most higrer-end devices (phones in particular)...
I intended to pass it on to my mom as her first tablet. When i bought it, it was fully usable and after two weeks (before the digitizer got delivered) my mom got addicted to it.
Then i got the digitizer in the mail... I cracker the tablet open, unhooked the front assembly and started going at it. First i tried removing the screws in the hope that the lcd would easily seperate from the digitizer. Sadly that wasn't the case so my next action was to try and seperate the lcd and digitizer from the plastic frame... i broke off a piece of black glass that was over the frame and started working my way arround the gap with small but tough shears so that i would brake the glass off from the frame, working my way arround the screen and digitizer, while removing any broken glass from the frame at the same time. Took two hours and the two were seperated. Tried to connect the lcd to the tablet to see if it still worked, and it did. So i was left with what i thought was an easy task of seperating the lcd and digitizer by lifting the adhesive. Top, left and right went rather easily. I added thin plastic mediator-like opening tools arround the edge so that the lcd wouldn't get stuck back to the adhesive (was trying to preserve the adhesive stips for re-installation). When only the bottom one was left still attached i went with the experience/common-sence approach to start prying the lcd away from the digitizer where i thought the adhesive strip would be the same size and would easily give way... That's probably when the lcd couldn't take it and cracked.
Had i used a scalpel all arround- i would have been left with a perfectly working tablet, but all i had was a tablet with a cracked lcd. So i gave up on this not wanting to crack another (costly) lcd and sold it on ebay. That, and because it was a little too big and heavy to use on the train every day going and from work.
So what have i learned from this?
1. For tablets with glue-stripped-on LCD's ALWAYS break the glass arround the frame (with high caution) to seperate the digitizer+LCD from the frame
2. ALWAYS use a scalpel in between the adhesive and digitizer (making shure that when you insert it, you can see it infront of the LCD and behind the digitizer. If needed, angle the scalpel so that it rests on the digitizer and not the LCD. (LCD pannel edges ussually have a strip of metal or plastic arround the edge, so you won't damage them if you use light force on that area, as opposed to the glass itself.)
Hope people who do break their primes get to see these posts before attempting any repairs.
ThomasKJ said:
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS ON THE DIGITIZER WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a way to do a 5 point screen calibration, but this does not seem to be stouchscreenupported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
Have anyone successfully replaced their screen - if so, could you reply with the partnumber listed on the flex cable? Mine is: 3KA12-5SCA01, 18100-10180100.
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Click to collapse
I have exact same problem with the touchscreen. X-AXIS is reverted but not fully, touchscreen works off pressing like a mirror on the left to the right.
I'ts video youtu.be/XUN_0q5I4ng
my touchscreen partnumber is same.
Сould you upload photos of the touchscreen cables differences between what you had originally and those that worked not correctly?
Where did you find the part number for the digitzer? Is it near the tiny QR code, or on it?
I have the same problem x-axis is reverted. Still wonder why? The original broken glass/digitizer was working fine.
Please share if you guys found the solution. I will do it too.
Thank!
Theres a vid about this. i will post it soon. i'm only using my phone. my prime is with my dad in china. i dont know when i'm getting it back in 2 or mor week i guess? surely i'll be noob again when i get it back.
I have the same problem too. Broken digitizer & lcd.. Got a replacement digitizer and the x-axis was inverted, sent it back and got the full refund.
After that i texted a few mails with another seller that knows the problem, he told me there are two versions of digitizers for the tf201. He sent out the (i hope) right one today, I will post the seller if this one works (takes about two weeks to get it..)
OP started this thread in another forum I found via google search where some guy figured out how to fix the x-axis problem by changing something in the source.. however I think he will release a patch after some more testing but he can't test right now because he has no lcd atm. Here's the thread:
bit.ly/OXx6us (hope it's allowed to post this)
same thing
I have exactly the same issue: axis-x is inverted.
I got it, thought it's broken or fake or whatever and sent it back. Bought another one from a different seller. Same problem.
I'm not a programmer, but I feel it can be fixed easy on a software level (just don't know where to look for it)
Here is my video:
digitizer on the way from China
Any one find a solution for this yet?
I have a digitizer on the way from China.
Just a bump to catch someones attention I hope.
I'm waiting to hear from someone if they found a supplier that will send the right screen, or if they know how to compile the kernel to make the screwed up screens work right.
Kind of holding off ordering mine at the moment.
All of a sudden there are a lot of these for sale on Ebay.
And there hasn't been much chatter on defective ones lately.
Makes me wonder if it was just a specific seller that had a bad batch.
Caught a guy trying to sell his TF201 with a broken LCD that he claims broke while replacing the digitizer.
Turns out he is trying to sell his with one of the inverted digitizers and not stating so in the auction.
I ordered a replacement from New Jersy and canceled the one from china I will see what happens when it gets here.
I will definately test it before I tape it down.
If it works let me know. I'm in Canada and would rather pay a bit more for a properly working one than some knockoff that I have to be a programmer to get working.
Any news on your replacement yet?
Nightpath said:
Any news on your replacement yet?
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I got my second replacement-digitizer and it's inverted too.. so frustrating!
As there are so many people with this problem I hope some expierienced guy will take a look at the touchscreen-driver and post a little workaround. It is possible to fix this problem by editing the driver but I don't know how it exactly has to be done.
I will share my problem.
My screen broke, however, the LCD and touch still worked.
I ordered a new screen for ASUS authorized service, because using a tablet with a cracked screen is horrible.
I thought it would be posted only the digitizer, but no, the Asus offers LCD screen with digitizer, it is not necessary to work to separate the two parts.
A professional did the replacement.
The problem is that the new set is crazy.
When the tablet is horizontal | === |,
* think that is vertically
| = |
| = |
* and otherwise also.
I think I was unlucky.
* I'm about to order a new set, this time, buy direct from asusparts.eu
Hmmm...where exactly did you order your first digitizer (touchscreen)? And that site you linked sucks, no pictures of any of the items to make sure you're getting the right one.
Received mine yesterday, [email protected]#$** piece of crap!!
It is inverted,it is going back.
First they wanted to give me a discount to keep it, idiots!
Then theyy want to send me another in exchange, they don't seem to understand the problem is they are all going to be the same if they are from the same batch.
Any one found a source for a good one yet?
I am going to try and see if Asus will sell them directly to the end user.
They sell laptop parts, so maybe they will do a digitizer.
I'll post my findings.
Cool. I work long days here in Canada (military, sigh) so I don't get much of a chance to do anything. Let me know as soon as you find out TRJ
Hello guys, my digitizer broken.....the lcd is in perfect condition..but i am not sure if the digitizer can replaced alone because lcd and digitizer are stick together....so is there any way that i can fix my digitizer without buying new lcd and without damaging my lcd........i want only to replace the digitizer and have it as was when i bought it...also i am in Europe,so i don't have any warranty either a shop that sell parts and can replace it!Waiting impatiently for your help!
blake chan said:
The LCD and digitizer can be separated and you could just replace your broken digitizer. Just find this LCD and digitizer separation video in Youtube, but it's for Nokia Pure 808... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7FbCvI_ZGA&list=SPFF45001BDE8794B7&index=65, the guy making this video is good at repairing phones, you could send him message to look for help/advice. Good luck!
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I did several of the htc inspire 4g phones at one point, bought,fixed and sold. I can safely say this process CAN be done but is very difficult and not to be taken lightly. You have to dismantle EVERYTHING else to get to the digitizer/lcd assembly, heat the 2 pieces and slooooowly pry apart. It's VERY easy to break the lcd in the process, then there's dust that gets in between and/or adhesive when putting in the new. The vids make it look easy-it's not. The connectors are also fragile and EASY to break-and there are others not directly attached to the lcd, lost TINY screws. It's also VERY easy to damage the case in the process or the power/vol buttons-the list goes on! It's way easier to replace the lcd/digitizer assembly-yes, way more expensive too. I have been following several "parts" phones and replacement parts places. The phone is too new yet for parts to be in enough demand that the price is reasonable (or broken DNA's). A parts phone is in the 200-300 ranges, the digitizer around 60-80 the lcd's around 100 and the assembly (both together already) close to 200. You do the math. You can get a whole new phone for not much more. That's if you don't end up breaking other parts and replacing them as well. If you are good at this stuff, it's very rewarding and fun to do so go for it. You can always sell your phone 'for parts' on ebay if it doesn't work out. Just don't expect easy.
As someone that's done a number of these, the above information is pretty much spot on.
I busted my glass a few days ago and found that information on disassembly and repair is sparse as are the parts. Replacing the assembly is usually a safer bet, I would say that separating the two doubles the difficulty of the project, and the biggest determining factors are tools, and time.
The biggest problem for a repair like this is rushing the project.
This is one of those things that you should not do when you are short on time. Usually problems come from being in too big of a hurry, so plan on having plenty of time. If something unexpected comes into the mix, you want to be able to deal with it when you aren't tired and aren't needing to get your phone back together in a hurry because it's your only phone. So factor into the equation you might need a backup phone and it may take more hours than originally planned.
Have a decent digital camera at your side and photograph the entire disassembly process so that when it's time to put it back together you have reference points instead of counting on remembering every little detail.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2
Okay, so my Terminator...errr, my son, managed to crack the heck out of his Nabi 2 digitizer screen. The LCD screen is fine and he can still use the Nabi, but I've noticed more and more cracks so I'm sure it's bound to break the LCD.
So, I went on eBay and ordered a piece of glass, but I'm not thinking it's not going to work. It was only like 13 bucks. I had a model number given to me after the fact (at070tn90), and I just looked and I didn't get that one. I'm just hoping it will work.
At any rate, I finally got the Nabi apart, but I've been fearful of removing the connectors for the screen. Can someone PLEASE tell me how to get the screen apart so I can try to replace it when I get the correct glass for it? PLEASE! There are NO Youtube vids for this...tons for the Nexus 7, but nada for Nabi.
Please help...I'm desperate! Thanks so much!!
The likelihood the digitizer isn't cracked is very low.
NABI2 touchscreen layering:
front glass..............thick (glue around outer most edges to frame)
airgap......................very thin (glue around edges)
digitizer glass........thin
lcd............................thick
I tried the same thing but the actual digitizer glass is like 1/10 the thickness of the front panel glass and glued to it on the edges. If the digitizer glass is not cracked, it will probably crack on attempted removal from the front panel. If the digitizer is fully working in-spite of the front glass cracking it may be possible to heat the front assembly up to the point the adhesive allows the glass to just fall out.... but as far as how close the glue melting point is to the melting point of the plastic frame is not something I know. The entire assembly is put together with some super strong double-sided sticky tape. If you can source just the digitizer and glass assembly I'd like to know.
Once one attempts a replacement and it doesn't work is it still possible to get Fuhu/Nabi to replace the screen (at reasonable cost)?
( If not you could just plug in a keyboard/mouse and use the hdmi out... would make a great XBMC server... once the port exists... )
.
Pictures?
oranrene7 said:
Okay, so my Terminator...errr, my son, managed to crack the heck out of his Nabi 2 digitizer screen. The LCD screen is fine and he can still use the Nabi, but I've noticed more and more cracks so I'm sure it's bound to break the LCD.
So, I went on eBay and ordered a piece of glass, but I'm not thinking it's not going to work. It was only like 13 bucks. I had a model number given to me after the fact (at070tn90), and I just looked and I didn't get that one. I'm just hoping it will work.
At any rate, I finally got the Nabi apart, but I've been fearful of removing the connectors for the screen. Can someone PLEASE tell me how to get the screen apart so I can try to replace it when I get the correct glass for it? PLEASE! There are NO Youtube vids for this...tons for the Nexus 7, but nada for Nabi.
Please help...I'm desperate! Thanks so much!!
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Do you have any pictures of the digitizer and ribbon cable? Also location of the cable and size measurements.
manx_73 said:
Do you have any pictures of the digitizer and ribbon cable? Also location of the cable and size measurements.
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I already put it back together because he was taking everyone's iPhones to play games on. lol The glass anatomizer (or whatever it's called), had a long thin strip and the LCD had a thicker one. Either way, the glass nowhere near fit. I had a feeling it was going to be too hard to replace anyway; hence the reason I can't seem to find a tutorial on fixing a Nabi.
And yes, Fuhu will fix it for like 85 bucks plus shipping...I only paid 90 for the tablet just recently (Craigslist). Oh well. I guess we'll just let him play till he cuts his finger.
Thank you both so much for your input. I appreciate it
Help replacing Nabi2 digitizer screen...
Any luck on this?
I have a Nabi 2 on which I've removed the broken digitizer. It was a bit more difficult than I had anticipated. I had to keep the heat gun on the glass and avoid heat-damage to the plastic. I used a small knife between the digitizer and the plastic frame. Next time, I may heat and bend a cheap knife into a Z shape to get under the glass without lifting it too much. I did get it out in some large pieces, but am not sure if I could do it intact if it hadn't been cracked.
Anyhow, the LCD looks great, but I can't seem to find the digitizer anywhere. The ribbon cable has a sticker with the following:
EP0700MLM1
12073*A1G.
272
View attachment 2625405
and on the back side above the chip, is:
40-90121-0
EDT REV.C
View attachment 2625413
on the inside glass is:
85701165
View attachment 2625417
The tiny text in the upper-right corner and written in mirror-image is:
XT2DA5A0118-EP0700 B1
I tried running the text through Google and aliexpress.com / alibaba.com, but to no avail. Anyone else have any luck?
Thanks,
Chip Stewart
ChipStewart said:
Any luck on this?
I have a Nabi 2 on which I've removed the broken digitizer. It was a bit more difficult than I had anticipated. I had to keep the heat gun on the glass and avoid heat-damage to the plastic. I used a small knife between the digitizer and the plastic frame. Next time, I may heat and bend a cheap knife into a Z shape to get under the glass without lifting it too much. I did get it out in some large pieces, but am not sure if I could do it intact if it hadn't been cracked.
Anyhow, the LCD looks great, but I can't seem to find the digitizer anywhere. The ribbon cable has a sticker with the following:
EP0700MLM1
12073*A1G.
272
View attachment 2625405
and on the back side above the chip, is:
40-90121-0
EDT REV.C
View attachment 2625413
on the inside glass is:
85701165
View attachment 2625417
The tiny text in the upper-right corner and written in mirror-image is:
XT2DA5A0118-EP0700 B1
I tried running the text through Google and aliexpress.com / alibaba.com, but to no avail. Anyone else have any luck?
Thanks,
Chip Stewart
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I am also looking for the same digitizer model any luck? Anyone?
brianbri6 said:
I am also looking for the same digitizer model any luck? Anyone?
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I am sorry for bringing back an old thread, but has anyone found a source for a proper replacement part for this? I am having a hell of a time finding a replacement part for the digitizer in my nabi2. It's as if nobody makes a replacement for the digitizers with EP0700MLM1 on the ribbon cable. About the only choice I have now is to find a used part, and pray that it also has the same kind of LCD screen within the housing.
--Rex
rex.torres said:
I am sorry for bringing back an old thread, but has anyone found a source for a proper replacement part for this? I am having a hell of a time finding a replacement part for the digitizer in my nabi2. It's as if nobody makes a replacement for the digitizers with EP0700MLM1 on the ribbon cable. About the only choice I have now is to find a used part, and pray that it also has the same kind of LCD screen within the housing.
--Rex
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I am looking at a few on Fleabay now. You need to take yours apart and compare model numbers with the ones on Ebay. Just search ebay for Nabi 2 digitizer. about 20 results for it, ranging from $25 -65. The $65 one is a complete front panel minus the LCD. just unscrew the top panel and replace, it looks like.
Wow...I'm the original poster...and here I am years later still bothering with Nabi! lol In 2014, I went on Nabi's site and paid $60 to have the digitizer replaced. I never sent the Nabi in because a friend of mine gave me his kid's Nabi to use for parts (he couldn't get it to charge any longer). I took the entire front panel with LCD and digitizer and replaced it with mine. Worked like a charm...until my younger son stepped on it...on purpose! Lil turd! So, here I am again trying to fix the screen, BUT, this time I noted that I needed the LCD and the digitizer (the ribbon on the LCD was breaking off - not sure how that could have happened). At any rate, I ordered both the digitizer and LCD. I replaced them both and it's a no-go...not working. I still have it apart, but I have the cables plugged in, so when I move the screen around, the Nabi screen will come up, but the touchscreen isn't working. I may be sending the digitizer back, but I'm wondering if it's because of how they are lying on one another. Does anyone know if maybe the touchscreen doesn't work if it's too close or too far from the LCD screen. I don't mean by an obvious amount - I mean is there a "specific" amount of space. I am trying to get it in the casing exactly like it was before, but I don't want to do anything permanent until I know it's working 100%.
Also, you can easily and cheaply get the LCD and digitizer for the Nabi now - just stinks you have to order it from China and it takes forever to get here! I can only imagine how long a return/replacement is going to take. Ugh!
Oh, and Nabi has yet to return my $60 bucks...I have spent way too much on this tablet!
I ended up having to match my part number to a used but good part off of ebay. I had ordered several "new" digitizers and they never worked. There seemed to have been a design change somewhere along the line, or some missing information that made mine not work with the "new" parts available at the time.
However, to answer your question, the digitizer will work completely separated from the LCD as long as the ribbon cable is attached (of course). Rather than reassembling everything, I would only connect the digitizer to see if it worked. When I finally found one that worked, I then committed to doing the full repair.
It was a very painful process.
Is it an easy thing to take apart and put bk together if you have never done this before my daughter stood on her Nabi accident it was under her comfort blankie opps screen cracked but works fine she's only 2 ( well advanced for her age) soI dnt want her to use it incase she cuts her tiny fingers doesn't feel sharp but dnt want to risk it can't find any view on u tube still many years on be nice if someone would do one haha
Honestly...
It was a pain in the ass to remove the glass / digitizer from the nabi. If you're not careful--as I was--it is real easy to deform the plastic bezel that the glass / digitizer and LCD reside in. I ended up having to buy a replacement bezel that already had a digitizer and LCD attached to it. The LCD was DOA, but the one from my original was fine, so I begrudgingly transplanted that too.
Test the digitizer FIRST before committing to installing it on the plastic bezel.
My phone has developed a digitizer problem in that a vertical strip (approx 15mm) is completely unresponsive, and sometimes the screen goes a bit haywire (continously zooms in when web browsing or in a document). Have tried resetting the phone, and reflashing the ROM, but the problem persists.
Does anyone have any experience when with regards to replacing the digitizer, and would like to share their experiences? I.e. Is there anything which I should be made aware of, such as specific rookie errors? Have looked up some Youtube videos, so I think I'm fairly clued up, but thought I'd call in on the experts before I take the plunge!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1591399
check this thread
not recommend replace digitizer at this moment it cast too many $$$, Asus CES2014 announce $99 smart phone.
thecjan said:
not recommend replace digitizer at this moment it cast too many $$$, Asus CES2014 announce $99 smart phone.
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They look nice the zenfone that is will have to buy a sd card for it down side no internal memory or atleast none you can use. besides that actually looks very nice. wonder how long before you can buy one right now it says ask dealer about availability so im guessing 3 to 6 months. digitizer $15.00 and then he can sell phone for $50 to $75 dollars if he chooses to later once it finally hits stores
Yeah, but with sd cards being inexpensive (I just got a 8gb class 4 microsd for $50, about U$S10) it isn't really a downside. If you maage to get an replacement for the digitizer, buy it. as overboard says, you can sell the phone at a higher price if you decide to buy another.
OP, I had the same problem, I warn you, once you detach the digitizer from the phone, before you actually remove it, dettach the lcd also, that way, when you must remove the flex and pass it through, the gap will be larger and you wont have to bend the flex, avoiding the risk of damaging it. Digitizer and lcd are meant to be extracted together. Also, be very careful when you detach the digitizer, as dointg it hard can remove the glue strips and let the dust enter the screen. that's what happened to mine, glue strips got broken at the bottom corners, and now the capacitive buttons' light pass thru it, to the screen and dust enters and I can't see sh*t
Thanks guys. From what I've read, most people appear to experience problems either during or after the upgrade, so even though a replacement digitizer should only set me back £15, it could be more hassle that it's worth...
This could be a good opportunity to upgrade