I'm in the process of repairing a TF201 with a cracked LCD (but perfect digitizer/glass, strangely), and was curious if anyone else has gone down this road before. I was able to source the stock Hannstar LCD to a couple auctions on ebay, and from there to the actual distributor. I've already ordered one, but shipping is going to be incredibly slow (currently deployed, mail is slow out here) so I don't have anything to show just yet. They did tell me that nobody sells the digitizer yet, which is disappointing.
So has anyone else successfully transplanted a new LCD into a TF201 yet?
USNGoat said:
I'm in the process of repairing a TF201 with a cracked LCD (but perfect digitizer/glass, strangely), and was curious if anyone else has gone down this road before. I was able to source the stock Hannstar LCD to a couple auctions on ebay, and from there to the actual distributor. I've already ordered one, but shipping is going to be incredibly slow (currently deployed, mail is slow out here) so I don't have anything to show just yet. They did tell me that nobody sells the digitizer yet, which is disappointing.
So has anyone else successfully transplanted a new LCD into a TF201 yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not seen any recent posts about transplanting a new LCD into a TF201.
after seeing the tablet disassembled i quite honestly dont know how the digitizer and the LCD would come apart, it might be glued / fabricated as one part and sold as such. You could try prying it apart but honestly i think your better off returning it if you can or take it up with asus RMA (good luck), or at the very least have extra parts on hand when you try it.
Either way, its not looking promising.
Hi all, The Touchscreen will be very hard to source because the design will be owned and protected by Asus. If it’s like other tablets (with the exception of apple/ipads) the LCD will be freely available but the digitizer will be unavailable for a long time.
Here is an example of how it usually works. Asus need a touchscreen for tablet, they will contract a company like Panjit touchscreens (this is just an example, I am not sure who makes the prime's screen) to design and manufacture a touchscreen for them. Asus will own the design and Panjit will manufacture it and only supply it to Asus (the owner of the design). Asus will then unite the touchscreen and LCD in a sterile, dust free environment to ensure that no contaminants get between the 2 items (dust, finger prints, hair, trust me it's always a hair!). After the 2 units are together they can be handled and fitted easily (without gloves and in a normal dust filled environment). This is why they service the 2 items as 1.
To change them as one unit will take maybe half an hour. To change only one item (the LCD or Digitiser) would take at least 2 hours. It would require removing the old LCD/digitiser unit, separating the broken item from the unbroken one, cleaning the unbroken piece to remove any glue (this is usually just double sided tape but can be a pain to remove), I am not if the transformer is glued, I think its screwed down as some users have adjusted the screws to reduce light bleed), clean the new item (this will need cleaning too as clean is not clean enough for this job). They then need to unite the 2 items without getting contaminants between the 2 items (anything between the 2 is instantly noticeable and means starting again). When the LCD/Digitiser is together fitting them to the main unit is simple and will take about 15 minutes. But it's everything else that takes time, cut corners or rush and it will end up taking longer as it will need doing again.
It’s not impossible to change one item but it's very difficult and time consuming.
Related
I can't find any info on this, but it looks like it could be tricky to replace. I cracked my glass by dropping it onto stone, still works OK. You can pick up digitisers pretty cheap on ebay (£20 UK) but does anyone know how to replace? I read that they can be glued to the LCD?
Thanks
Google for the fixit website, if someone has done it there will be a tutorial, or you could follow the guide on here to upgrade your sd card....only because you have to take the phone fully apart. You need to check if the lcd is glued or like the iphone 4 resin. If they are a sealed unit you'd be better off getting the lcd/digitizer combo on ebay. trying to separate an lcd from the digitizer is asking for trouble imho.
I have ordered a digitiser, really hope the digitiser is not glued to the LCD, there is a big price difference. I'll let you know how I get on.
I bought a Mozart with wrecked digitizer and also want to repair it. The digitizer is on its way, so in a week i could tell you how difficult or maybe easy it is.
If you are faster, please post your experience.
I found this thread on xda.cn, and it seems that the lcd isnt glued on the digitizer, so lets hope so
hxxp://xxx.xda.cn/newshow.php?snid=2167
EDIT: sorry cantpost links, so must change the x's to t's and w's
I have got my digitiser now, looks brand new. Just need to find the time to replace, might upgrade the SD card at the same time.
Done
I did this with Andy's guide to help: http://lifeinthefastlaneok.wordpres...-7-mozart-sd-card-memory-upgrade/#comment-225
I used this guide to replace my digitiser (the glass) which I smashed. The good news is that the digitiser is not stuck to the LCD at all. I just bought a grade A digitiser off ebay for £20 which was pretty much perfect - glass was perfect with a couple of small marks on the back case, but basically like new.
There were a couple of differences to this guide:
- Had to replace a speaker type thing at the top of the digitiser that was not present on the new one. Came off quite easily, just stuck in.
- Had to remove the USB port of the old case back (if you are replacing that too) but that was just a couple of screws
- You dont have to split the PCB off if doing this, you just take off the black clips to take it apart and then remove the orange ribbon cable, it is a little tricky to get the new one in but OK.
I now have a phone as good as new, I didn't replace the SD at the same time but probably will do at some point when I can stand loosing all my data.
Found time today to replace the digitizer. I also used Andy's videos for instruction. And it's really not that hard. Pretty easy for someones first mobile phone repair.
Well done, I would add for anyone else needing to do this, be very careful not to touch the inside of the digitiser or the LCD when you have it apart! Also have a glasses cloth handy for removing any dust particles just before you put it back together.
I do have one strange thing however - before I had intermittent issues where I could not slide the screen up when locked for 10 seconds or so. No I have a slightly different issue when unlocking - it doesn't always let me press on the right hand 3 numbers on the PIN screen! So it seems the unlocking issue some people have is due to a hardware issue. My digitiser was second hand so I might ask for a replacement, but I can change my pin so that it is not an issue.
My Mozart touch-screen hardly works at all plus my wife's Mozart has a cracked digitizer glass (still working fine).
So silly me I took the plunge and ordered three cheap replacement digitizers via eBay (from Hong Hong). They arrived today and all are s**t useless.
When I opened the box I smelt the rat when I spied the HTC logo on each was blanked out on the outside of the plastic zip-lock bags (with what looked like black felt pen), plus each glass has minor blemishes/scratches. Comparing each with the digitizers I removed from my and my wife's phones, they have a different design of ribbon cable conductor layout plus there are indications the plastic moulding isn't as well finished in a couple of places. Either these are factory rejects or knock-off copies. Lesson learnt :-(
Anyway, I now need to buy genuine HTC parts.
Any pointers toward reliable sources appreciated, thanks.
KJ
I have bought some off ebay. The problem is that these are almost always from returned Mozart's which may well have been returned due to non responsive screens, which seems to be a very common problem.
I have had 2 off the same chap now, one is OK but not perfect, the other one didnt work at all.
I would just keep returning them until you get one that works.
Sometimes you will find new combined digitiser/LCD's on ebay too, these would be a better bet but cost more.
Can someone who as changed a screen on this phone using Andys guide, please tell me how easy or hard it was, and how long does it take??
And would be grateful if someone could give me a link to the correct digitizer for this phone....
I am in the UK and have been qouted 50 pounds at a phone shop for the to supply and fit screen...
Did you see my post?
There were a couple of differences to this (Andy's) guide:
- Had to replace a speaker type thing at the top of the digitiser that was not present on the new one. Came off quite easily, just stuck in.
- Had to remove the USB port of the old case back (if you are replacing that too) but that was just a couple of screws
- You dont have to split the PCB off if doing this, you just take off the black clips to take it apart and then remove the orange ribbon cable, it is a little tricky to get the new one in but OK.
The most tricky thing for me was getting all the dust off the LCD and the digitsier, as soon as you get it apart things start sticking to it like crazy. Have a clean glasses cloth around.
It takes about an hour on your first go. The main thing is to get the orange ribbon cablle in fully, it can be tricky - you need to get a good grip on it (fold it a little) and push it home quite hard, otherwise you get it all back together and find it doesn't work.
I have had 2 dodgy screens off ebay, £50 sounds OK if it is a brand new original HTC screen.
Or just search for 'htc mozart digitiser' on ebayt there are loads.
hsclater said:
I have bought some off ebay. The problem is that these are almost always from returned Mozart's which may well have been returned due to non responsive screens, which seems to be a very common problem.
I have had 2 off the same chap now, one is OK but not perfect, the other one didnt work at all.
I would just keep returning them until you get one that works.
Sometimes you will find new combined digitiser/LCD's on ebay too, these would be a better bet but cost more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for that. A close look at the ones I bought from china I'm sure now are removed from phones with faulty digitizers, then repackaged as new. One of the three had significant dust and dirt on the inside of the digitiser screen. I've requested a refund via PalPal disputes.
I've ordered some digitizers from ecell in the UK. I'm led to believe by them that these are genuine HTC factory supplied spares.
KJ
I just replaced my 4th screen (1 broke, 2 dodgy).
This one is perfect - as new condition and works perfectly, my last one was not responsive in some situations e.g. lock screen.
This is the one I got (UK)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130498971267?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Of course, your mileage may vary - some are probably good, some not. Replace it, if it doesn't work ask for another, etc.
My new digitizers arrived today from the uk. Horray they are genuine HTC spare parts properly packaged. The downside is they don't include the frame the glass sit in and is adhered to.
So I watched the official HTC Mozart disassembly video on youtube to see how to remove the existing digitizer glass from the frame - got it apart ok after heating the unit to soften the adhesives but it didn't come away entirely cleanly i.e some of the adhesive foam broke away and was left on the underside of the glass.
So... check on eBay and found sellers selling refurbished screen frames ready for a new glass to be attached.
Will update on progress once they arrive.
KJ
just ordered my digitiser today... wish me luck...lol
poolielad said:
just ordered my digitiser today... wish me luck...lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I am now buzzing... have just changed my screen at it works perfect.....
£50 they wanted at the shop...it cost me £13....
Just to let you know how easy this is to do........If I can do it, anyone can..
Did anyone find a reliable supply in the end? I just cracked my digitiser so looking to replace it...
--edit--
Also, how much have others paid? Don't want to be ripped off for some sub-standard part.
Hello everybody,
I m trying to replace the digitiser of a HTC Mozart too.
It is really easy to do, even the part where you have to take off the digitiser from the plastic frame.
But I have an issue, it is the second digitiser I am using ( from the same ebay shop ) and the digitiser is working inverted vertically! Really strange but it is like that.
As the mobile phone is started up, when I push on a left buton, it push on a right button ! On the key board, when I press on "P" it press on "A" ( i m using an Azerty layout, I assume it should be "Q" on your layout ).
It is really anyoing of course.
It is the second screen I received from the Ebay shop and same issue, I don't think the problem come from my side, but I just want to ask to you all if somebody have an idea or the same issue once.
fx.lagwagon said:
Hello everybody,
I m trying to replace the digitiser of a HTC Mozart too.
It is really easy to do, even the part where you have to take off the digitiser from the plastic frame.
But I have an issue, it is the second digitiser I am using ( from the same ebay shop ) and the digitiser is working inverted vertically! Really strange but it is like that.
As the mobile phone is started up, when I push on a left buton, it push on a right button ! On the key board, when I press on "P" it press on "A" ( i m using an Azerty layout, I assume it should be "Q" on your layout ).
It is really anyoing of course.
It is the second screen I received from the Ebay shop and same issue, I don't think the problem come from my side, but I just want to ask to you all if somebody have an idea or the same issue once.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mate, I had the same problem. However it seems no one was able to help me either.
I also purchased a digitizer from Ebay for my Mozart - the exact same inverted issue occurred with me. I wasn't able to find a solution.
I'm in Australia with a T8697 model. The digitizer I received from Ebay had a circle around the windows button at the bottom - This was not on my original screen.
In the end, I purchased a digitizer from an Australian business. Cost double the Ebay digitizer did, so I hope it works... Haven't received it yet, but I'll let you know when I put it in.
What model Mozart do you own?
Hi all,
First off, can I thank all the contributors to this thread http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1530660
I realise I could post this in the thread above but I think it deserves a new thread.
After reading 25 pages of the above thread I thought I should closely inspect my screen for any sign of damage caused by the dock. A lot of the cracks look like they are caused by the dock and mine is only really used in the dock (about 95% of the time used in dock). Inspecting it I have found a micro crack in the tablet screen. It is covered by the dock and even with the dock removed it is very hard to see unless the light catches the crack right and the tablet it at the correct angle. I would have missed this had I not seen the thread above. The first I would have known about it would have been when it inevitably cracks properly. Like this one http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jIpaym8J4kk/T5wAQhFMV2I/AAAAAAAAX4U/AlpDo7CTrQg/s1600/cfp7.jpg (thanks tomanytoys for posting the picture of this one)
Others have claimed that their screens had spontaneously cracked without being dropped or impacted when left in a cold car overnight or after closing and opening the dock/tablet. This is obviously the cause in many case's
A little background on my tablet.
I have owned my tablet since 14/01/2012, pre-ordered from curries website so got it on the first day of release in the UK. I love it.
I (carefully) open and close it regularly, using the dock to protect the screen while its not in use (even if its just for a couple of minutes to make a brew). The tablet has never left my house and I use it docked 95% of the time. It has never been dropped and I have not added rubber tabs to the dock to prevent the screen cracking as some people have.
Here are the pictures of the micro crack.
The next picture is the tablet and dock. The tablet is not fully docked so you can still see the marks (but not the crack) and there position relative to the dock .
The next picture shows the tablet and dock again, this time the tablet is fully docked. Notice the marks are now completely covered by the dock. The small marks you can still see are dust and are in the previous picture as well.
The next picture is taken with a digital microscope (not the greatest resolution) from above the crack. Most of the marks you see to the right of the scratch are grease, You can see from the direction of the streaks how I remove the tablet from the dock (left thumb on the release catch, lifted away with my right hand), however the 2 small marks below the grease, on the corner of the glass are 2 more cracks starting. These 2 marks are too small to be seen with the naked eye.
Next picture, again taken with the microscope was taken from a near horizontal plane. Its shows the other 2 marks well and shows that the main crack does not go all the way through the glass.
My microscope also does video but I am having problems uploading or converting the weird file format it's outputting but in the video I have made, I move a light source around the crack and it shows up, almost 3d in appearance. I will try to do the video again in another format later.
Everyone that owns a dock should check their touchscreen for these micro cracks. They are very hard to see and much easier to miss, I know exactly where it is but finding it and pointing it out to another person is difficult every time I have done it.
Looking at pictures of other spontaneous cracks they can be on the left side like mine or on the right, near the right dock latch. Most cracks seem to be on the left like it mine. Maybe this is because most people are right handed.
My GPS dongle arrived just after I noticed the crack. The dongle doesn’t fit (or not without forcing it on) http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1622447
If I had not noticed the crack and I had decided to force the dongle onto the tablet I am sure it would have cracked the touchscreen immediately so be warned.
I have emailed Asus about the problem but I have not received a response but it is the weekend.
It is my intention to only send this back to Asus for repair when I have an independent engineers report about what has caused the crack so there is no argument from Asus about consumer induced damage. Mine could go all the way at any minute or while sending it to Asus for repair/inspection. I have other tablets so I can afford to be without it for a bit, back to Tegra 2 for now.
I will update as soon as I here from Asus about this issue
Anyone with a crack in the same place is welcome to beat Asus over the head with my pictures.
To my mind this is conclusive proof that the design of the dock/hinge is faulty because all the pressure of opening them is placed on a small area of glass. I am not a expert in glass or mechanical engineering but this seems obvious even to a layman what has caused this and other cracks.
Wow...now that definitely was caused by the dock, no doubt. I actually undocked mine to check for cracks after reading this. I am still amazed and grateful that my screen did not crack after dropping the Prime on concrete while docked...twice. I thought a cracked screen was a sure bet after dropping it, especially after reading all of these posts of screens cracking on their own. If you watch a tear down of the Prime you will see how flexible the glass is. I saw a picture of a plastic pry tool prying the bottom middle of the screen up at least an inch, while the left and right edges of the screen were still snapped into the rear panel of the unit. I really think it might be defective glass, and not the dock. I've had my Prime 2 weeks less than you, and it's docked only 50% of the time, so it's constantly being docked and removed. All that docking/undocking and the 2 drops never gave me a crack. All the more reason to get a SquareTrade policy.
I agree with you about the insurance for accidental damage but its not really the responsibility of an insurance company to pay for fault caused by bad design.
On the subject of insurance, while I was reading the thread that brought the problem to my attention I was thinking "got to some gadget insurance on this" I did a quick search and you can get insurance cover for as little as £40 per year so it would be silly not to get insurance after spending £500 on the Tablet.
I will get some when this is sorted.
Please don't make duplicate threads...
As you said yourself, you should have posted in the other thread.
Thread closed.
Hi,
It seem like there are a lot of people that has TF201s with broken screens, but very little information about how to DIY screen replacement, so I wanted to post my bad experience here as a warning to people, so that they know what they get into.
The screen on my TF201 cracked (dropped on the floor - only the screen was damaged, the LCD and digitizer still worked) so I searched around the web to find ways to replace the screen - without luck
I did find instructions on how to open the device and I also found original glass/digitizer replacement parts on eBay originating from China at about $100 so I took the chance and ordered a new screen. It arrived 2 weeks after and looked good.
With the instructions on how to disassemble the TF201 posted on this forum, it was quickly open and the glass/digitizer/LCD is one subassembly connected to the mainboard with two flex cables - one for the LCD and one for the digitizer.
Next step is to power off the system internally. There is a small internal switch in the lower left corner that you should switch to the off position. The LCD and digitizer cables can now be disconnected from the mainboard. The connectors open easily by putting a nail under the white frame of the correctors and pulling the frame up and then pull out the flex cables. You now have the glass/digitizer/LCD separated from the mainboard.
The LCD has a few screws to hold it to the plastic frame - these should be removed at this step. Mine only has two screws mounted although there is room for more (bad assembly quality or a fix for screen bleeding???)
Now comes the hard part and the part where I failed! There is a plastic frame around the edges of the glass that you need to remove and mount on the new glass. This plastic part holds all the taps that keep the tablet together and it is taped to the glass with some VERY sticky tape!
I used a scalpel to cut between the plastic and the glass with the result that the glass broke in tiny pieces as I went around, but as I saw no other way I kept going... It might have been better to use a heat gun or a hairblower to heat up the glue before trying to remove it, but I was worried that the LCD might be damaged by the heat.
The plastic frame has to be removed first to have access to the foam tape that is used to tape the LCD to the glass/digitizer. Once the plastic frame was off, I again used the knife to gently cut the foam tape (around 1 mm thick) all around the LCD screen so that this can be removed from the glass.
Here I might have made my second mistake. I was worried that I would cut too deep into the foam and hit the LCD screen, but the foam at the bottom of the screen is a little wider than the rest and as I tried to remove the screen I used too much force and might have damaged the LCD - the end result was that also the LCD was damaged in the process. The damage might also have been caused by me pressing too hard on the screen during the removal of the plastic frame (might actually be more likely as the glass was broken across the screen and the damage I was seeing when I turned on the screen was following the same line as the crack).
Well, I got the LCD off the broken screen and though I had been successful even thought it had taken a couple of hours to get there (I could not visually see that the LCD was damaged at this point).
Then on to the assembly with the new screen/digitizer! I had some double sided tape that I used to tape the screen to the plastic, but decided to do a quick test before I fully assembled the unit and this turned out to be a good idea!
I mounted the LCD screen with just the screws and connected the flex cables back into the connectors (these can be a little tricky to get in, so just be patient and keep wiggling them in and close the latches). I enabled the power again and pressed the power button and: DAMM - THE LCD IS BROKE!!!!
After wiggling a little with the LCD cable I was able to get a partial image, but it was evident that I had mishandled the LCD screen during the disassembly and I needed a new screen to get my tablet working again - now I was glad that I did not glue the LCD to the glass, so that I needed both a new LCD and a new glass/digitizer!
Off to the web to search for a replacement LCD screen... Hmm, lots of ebay listings for TF201 replacement LCDs, but none of them looked like the original I had... Then I searched for the partnumber on the LCD I took out (Hannstar HSD101PWW2 rev. 0-A00) and I did find a few items priced around $100.
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS ON THE DIGITIZER WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a way to do a 5 point screen calibration, but this does not seem to be supported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
Have anyone successfully replaced their screen - if so, could you reply with the partnumber listed on the flex cable? Mine is: 3KA12-5SCA01, 18100-10180100.
They did offer to refund the price of the screen if I shipped the screen back to them, but I will most likely damage the screen when trying to remove the plastic frame and it will cost me shipping the part back to China. After a few mails exchanges they offered a $82 refund and I accepted that.
I now have a TF201 with a working touch screen that has the x-axis inverted and no LCD...
Continued...
SUMMARY/LEARNING:
- IF YOUR SCREEN ONLY HAS A SMALL CRACK - LIVE WITH IT OR TRY TO FIX IT WITH AUTO GLASS REPAIR GLUE
- IF YOU REALLY WANT TO GO FOR DIY SCREEN REPLACEMENT, MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET A DIGITIZER THAT WORKS WITH YOUR UNIT!
- WHEN REMOVING THE PLASTIC FRAME FROM THE GLASS BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO DAMAGE THE LCD SCREEN BY PRESSING ON THE BROKEN GLASS AND TRY TO USE A HAIR DRYER TO HEAT UP THE GLUE (NOT TRIED THIS MYSELF)
- WHEN CUTTING THE FOAM TAPE BETWEEN THE LCD AND THE SCREEN BE VERY CAREFULL TO CUT THOUGH ALL THE TAPE BEFORE TRYING TO REMOVE THE LCD
I now have a TF201 with a working touch screen that has the x-axis inverted and no LCD... Unless I get the touch screen issue resolved I most likely will get a TF700 instead of my broken prime - I really loved the prime for the 4 months I had it working...
Happened to me too!
Bought a prime with an already cracked glass with the hope to fix it, as i do with most higrer-end devices (phones in particular)...
I intended to pass it on to my mom as her first tablet. When i bought it, it was fully usable and after two weeks (before the digitizer got delivered) my mom got addicted to it.
Then i got the digitizer in the mail... I cracker the tablet open, unhooked the front assembly and started going at it. First i tried removing the screws in the hope that the lcd would easily seperate from the digitizer. Sadly that wasn't the case so my next action was to try and seperate the lcd and digitizer from the plastic frame... i broke off a piece of black glass that was over the frame and started working my way arround the gap with small but tough shears so that i would brake the glass off from the frame, working my way arround the screen and digitizer, while removing any broken glass from the frame at the same time. Took two hours and the two were seperated. Tried to connect the lcd to the tablet to see if it still worked, and it did. So i was left with what i thought was an easy task of seperating the lcd and digitizer by lifting the adhesive. Top, left and right went rather easily. I added thin plastic mediator-like opening tools arround the edge so that the lcd wouldn't get stuck back to the adhesive (was trying to preserve the adhesive stips for re-installation). When only the bottom one was left still attached i went with the experience/common-sence approach to start prying the lcd away from the digitizer where i thought the adhesive strip would be the same size and would easily give way... That's probably when the lcd couldn't take it and cracked.
Had i used a scalpel all arround- i would have been left with a perfectly working tablet, but all i had was a tablet with a cracked lcd. So i gave up on this not wanting to crack another (costly) lcd and sold it on ebay. That, and because it was a little too big and heavy to use on the train every day going and from work.
So what have i learned from this?
1. For tablets with glue-stripped-on LCD's ALWAYS break the glass arround the frame (with high caution) to seperate the digitizer+LCD from the frame
2. ALWAYS use a scalpel in between the adhesive and digitizer (making shure that when you insert it, you can see it infront of the LCD and behind the digitizer. If needed, angle the scalpel so that it rests on the digitizer and not the LCD. (LCD pannel edges ussually have a strip of metal or plastic arround the edge, so you won't damage them if you use light force on that area, as opposed to the glass itself.)
Hope people who do break their primes get to see these posts before attempting any repairs.
ThomasKJ said:
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS ON THE DIGITIZER WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a way to do a 5 point screen calibration, but this does not seem to be stouchscreenupported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
Have anyone successfully replaced their screen - if so, could you reply with the partnumber listed on the flex cable? Mine is: 3KA12-5SCA01, 18100-10180100.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have exact same problem with the touchscreen. X-AXIS is reverted but not fully, touchscreen works off pressing like a mirror on the left to the right.
I'ts video youtu.be/XUN_0q5I4ng
my touchscreen partnumber is same.
Сould you upload photos of the touchscreen cables differences between what you had originally and those that worked not correctly?
Where did you find the part number for the digitzer? Is it near the tiny QR code, or on it?
I have the same problem x-axis is reverted. Still wonder why? The original broken glass/digitizer was working fine.
Please share if you guys found the solution. I will do it too.
Thank!
Theres a vid about this. i will post it soon. i'm only using my phone. my prime is with my dad in china. i dont know when i'm getting it back in 2 or mor week i guess? surely i'll be noob again when i get it back.
I have the same problem too. Broken digitizer & lcd.. Got a replacement digitizer and the x-axis was inverted, sent it back and got the full refund.
After that i texted a few mails with another seller that knows the problem, he told me there are two versions of digitizers for the tf201. He sent out the (i hope) right one today, I will post the seller if this one works (takes about two weeks to get it..)
OP started this thread in another forum I found via google search where some guy figured out how to fix the x-axis problem by changing something in the source.. however I think he will release a patch after some more testing but he can't test right now because he has no lcd atm. Here's the thread:
bit.ly/OXx6us (hope it's allowed to post this)
same thing
I have exactly the same issue: axis-x is inverted.
I got it, thought it's broken or fake or whatever and sent it back. Bought another one from a different seller. Same problem.
I'm not a programmer, but I feel it can be fixed easy on a software level (just don't know where to look for it)
Here is my video:
digitizer on the way from China
Any one find a solution for this yet?
I have a digitizer on the way from China.
Just a bump to catch someones attention I hope.
I'm waiting to hear from someone if they found a supplier that will send the right screen, or if they know how to compile the kernel to make the screwed up screens work right.
Kind of holding off ordering mine at the moment.
All of a sudden there are a lot of these for sale on Ebay.
And there hasn't been much chatter on defective ones lately.
Makes me wonder if it was just a specific seller that had a bad batch.
Caught a guy trying to sell his TF201 with a broken LCD that he claims broke while replacing the digitizer.
Turns out he is trying to sell his with one of the inverted digitizers and not stating so in the auction.
I ordered a replacement from New Jersy and canceled the one from china I will see what happens when it gets here.
I will definately test it before I tape it down.
If it works let me know. I'm in Canada and would rather pay a bit more for a properly working one than some knockoff that I have to be a programmer to get working.
Any news on your replacement yet?
Nightpath said:
Any news on your replacement yet?
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I got my second replacement-digitizer and it's inverted too.. so frustrating!
As there are so many people with this problem I hope some expierienced guy will take a look at the touchscreen-driver and post a little workaround. It is possible to fix this problem by editing the driver but I don't know how it exactly has to be done.
I will share my problem.
My screen broke, however, the LCD and touch still worked.
I ordered a new screen for ASUS authorized service, because using a tablet with a cracked screen is horrible.
I thought it would be posted only the digitizer, but no, the Asus offers LCD screen with digitizer, it is not necessary to work to separate the two parts.
A professional did the replacement.
The problem is that the new set is crazy.
When the tablet is horizontal | === |,
* think that is vertically
| = |
| = |
* and otherwise also.
I think I was unlucky.
* I'm about to order a new set, this time, buy direct from asusparts.eu
Hmmm...where exactly did you order your first digitizer (touchscreen)? And that site you linked sucks, no pictures of any of the items to make sure you're getting the right one.
Received mine yesterday, [email protected]#$** piece of crap!!
It is inverted,it is going back.
First they wanted to give me a discount to keep it, idiots!
Then theyy want to send me another in exchange, they don't seem to understand the problem is they are all going to be the same if they are from the same batch.
Any one found a source for a good one yet?
I am going to try and see if Asus will sell them directly to the end user.
They sell laptop parts, so maybe they will do a digitizer.
I'll post my findings.
Cool. I work long days here in Canada (military, sigh) so I don't get much of a chance to do anything. Let me know as soon as you find out TRJ
Hello guys, my digitizer broken.....the lcd is in perfect condition..but i am not sure if the digitizer can replaced alone because lcd and digitizer are stick together....so is there any way that i can fix my digitizer without buying new lcd and without damaging my lcd........i want only to replace the digitizer and have it as was when i bought it...also i am in Europe,so i don't have any warranty either a shop that sell parts and can replace it!Waiting impatiently for your help!
blake chan said:
The LCD and digitizer can be separated and you could just replace your broken digitizer. Just find this LCD and digitizer separation video in Youtube, but it's for Nokia Pure 808... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7FbCvI_ZGA&list=SPFF45001BDE8794B7&index=65, the guy making this video is good at repairing phones, you could send him message to look for help/advice. Good luck!
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I did several of the htc inspire 4g phones at one point, bought,fixed and sold. I can safely say this process CAN be done but is very difficult and not to be taken lightly. You have to dismantle EVERYTHING else to get to the digitizer/lcd assembly, heat the 2 pieces and slooooowly pry apart. It's VERY easy to break the lcd in the process, then there's dust that gets in between and/or adhesive when putting in the new. The vids make it look easy-it's not. The connectors are also fragile and EASY to break-and there are others not directly attached to the lcd, lost TINY screws. It's also VERY easy to damage the case in the process or the power/vol buttons-the list goes on! It's way easier to replace the lcd/digitizer assembly-yes, way more expensive too. I have been following several "parts" phones and replacement parts places. The phone is too new yet for parts to be in enough demand that the price is reasonable (or broken DNA's). A parts phone is in the 200-300 ranges, the digitizer around 60-80 the lcd's around 100 and the assembly (both together already) close to 200. You do the math. You can get a whole new phone for not much more. That's if you don't end up breaking other parts and replacing them as well. If you are good at this stuff, it's very rewarding and fun to do so go for it. You can always sell your phone 'for parts' on ebay if it doesn't work out. Just don't expect easy.
As someone that's done a number of these, the above information is pretty much spot on.
I busted my glass a few days ago and found that information on disassembly and repair is sparse as are the parts. Replacing the assembly is usually a safer bet, I would say that separating the two doubles the difficulty of the project, and the biggest determining factors are tools, and time.
The biggest problem for a repair like this is rushing the project.
This is one of those things that you should not do when you are short on time. Usually problems come from being in too big of a hurry, so plan on having plenty of time. If something unexpected comes into the mix, you want to be able to deal with it when you aren't tired and aren't needing to get your phone back together in a hurry because it's your only phone. So factor into the equation you might need a backup phone and it may take more hours than originally planned.
Have a decent digital camera at your side and photograph the entire disassembly process so that when it's time to put it back together you have reference points instead of counting on remembering every little detail.
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So the glass screen on my Transformer Prime is shattered but the LCD and digitizer is 100% working. I've been doing research trying to find a replacement glass and I see there's version .3 and 1.0, Which one do I need? How can I tell? And does it matter? I thought I read somewhere that if you get ver 1.0 and the x-axis is backwards there is a way to re-calibrate the system.
I hope that you can send it back to asus or get bit fixed in a shop and it doesnt cost you too much money . but im here to tell you that its going to cost, that glass is expensive word to the wise do not break the TF201 glass because you may have to buy another tablet.
How handy are you? Are you able/willing to dis-assemble your Prime? If you don't think you have the skills-set, you will almost definitely break your Prime worse by trying to replace the digitzer yourself. If you *do* think you've got the skills, then it's merely probable that you'll break your Prime worse. I have replaced my digitizer and LCD, and it is not simple. The LCD is very VERY delicate when you disassemble.
You'll need to search the threads here for digizer replacement info. There's sufficient information. Short answer: You need to open your Prime and look at the digizer's ribbon cable. The version will be silkscreened on the mylar ribbon cable. This is how you will know if you have v0.3 or v1.0. Getting the wrong digitizer will invert the left/right when you replace. This will make using the touch-screen practically unusable. Fortunately, the vendor that I bought the wrong rev. of digitizer from was very willing to do a refund. I had the foresight to bench-test the new digitizer before trying to actually install.
I understand there's a firmware hack available to correct for the inversion if you get the wrong rev. of digitizer. I'm pretty certain you'll need to unlock and/or root your tab to apply this. I was not willing to do either to my Prime.
Once you get to the installation, you'll see that the digitizer and the LCD are in a sort of sandwich with a plastic bezel inbetween. The digizier is foam-taped (very sticky) to the bezel. The LCD is foam-taped (even more sticky) to the other side of the bezel. The bezel has spurs on it that connect to sliding locks accessible thru the docking port holes. This is what locks everything together.
When trying to remove what remains of your digitizer glass from the bezel, you run a substantial risk of breaking the LCD. Did I mention how friggn' fragile that thing is?
You might be better off just bying a bricked Prime and just swapping the entire screen. 'Problem with that is that you'll have a hard time knowing which rev of the digitizer will be on the unit you're buying. 'No easy way to know that I'm aware of. Perhaps Asus support can help you to figure out based on serial number or something... I dunno. I *do* know that Asus support sucks donkey-balls. I love my Prime but hate that company's post-sale support. (Wanted me to do an RMA to get replacement rubber feet for my dock).
Jgrimoldy said:
How handy are you? Are you able/willing to dis-assemble your Prime? If you don't think you have the skills-set, you will almost definitely break your Prime worse by trying to replace the digitzer yourself. If you *do* think you've got the skills, then it's merely probable that you'll break your Prime worse. I have replaced my digitizer and LCD, and it is not simple. The LCD is very VERY delicate when you disassemble.
You'll need to search the threads here for digizer replacement info. There's sufficient information. Short answer: You need to open your Prime and look at the digizer's ribbon cable. The version will be silkscreened on the mylar ribbon cable. This is how you will know if you have v0.3 or v1.0. Getting the wrong digitizer will invert the left/right when you replace. This will make using the touch-screen practically unusable. Fortunately, the vendor that I bought the wrong rev. of digitizer from was very willing to do a refund. I had the foresight to bench-test the new digitizer before trying to actually install.
I understand there's a firmware hack available to correct for the inversion if you get the wrong rev. of digitizer. I'm pretty certain you'll need to unlock and/or root your tab to apply this. I was not willing to do either to my Prime.
Once you get to the installation, you'll see that the digitizer and the LCD are in a sort of sandwich with a plastic bezel inbetween. The digizier is foam-taped (very sticky) to the bezel. The LCD is foam-taped (even more sticky) to the other side of the bezel. The bezel has spurs on it that connect to sliding locks accessible thru the docking port holes. This is what locks everything together.
When trying to remove what remains of your digitizer glass from the bezel, you run a substantial risk of breaking the LCD. Did I mention how friggn' fragile that thing is?
You might be better off just bying a bricked Prime and just swapping the entire screen. 'Problem with that is that you'll have a hard time knowing which rev of the digitizer will be on the unit you're buying. 'No easy way to know that I'm aware of. Perhaps Asus support can help you to figure out based on serial number or something... I dunno. I *do* know that Asus support sucks donkey-balls. I love my Prime but hate that company's post-sale support. (Wanted me to do an RMA to get replacement rubber feet for my dock).
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Thank for the help, I planned on buying the part and then taking it to a reputable shop that we have here on base to fix it. That way if they break it they can buy me a new one. They wanted $200 for parts and labor. But they said if I brought the glass they would do it for $50 and I asked the guy questions about the adhesive and he was knowledgeable with the TF201. I was seeing if there's a way I could save a few bucks but no big deal. I guess I'll just drop it off tomorrow.
Thank you everyone for the help!
This is A very interesting & helpful thread I hope that this can help someone else who has this problem. Please let us know of your TF201 gets fixed.
$50 is a good price to do the work for you. With what I know now, I'd have paid this to have it done by someone else. Still though, if you're going to buy the digitizer glass yourself, you're in the quandry of figuring out what rev. you need, v0.3 or v1.0. You really want to get the right one. Short of disassembling yourself to be able to examine the ribbon cable, options are few.
Perhaps you can call Asus Support, give them your serial number, and ask which rev your unit has. Perhaps they'll give you a truthful answer. Perhaps they wont.
'Not sure that your repair shop will be keen on the idea of opening your prime for you to identify then order the glass youself to undercut their $20(ish) margin on getting the glass for you.