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Hi,
Dunno if anyone is interested but I now have DAB Radio plus ANY selection of music that i choose BLASTING out of my home stereo.
Finally got round to cutting off the ear buds from the supplied headset and replacing them with Phono plugs. Now I can plug Lobby into anything.
I, incidentally, was lucky enough to get a really worn set of headphones with my lobby and complained to Virgin & got a spare set.
It's a 5 pole plug so I presume one of them is the DAB aerial, when you stripped cable was their 5 wires?
Does your cable now work fine as a aerial (I presume so)? If so how did you break that out?
Do you live in a area that has a good DAB signal.
Any pics of cable?
Cheers - sorry for all the questions!
Hi.
I simply nipped the two ear buds off leaving all the connections in place on the plug so the arial didn't get disturbed.
when you carefully strip the cable you need to separate the sets of wires. they are NOT plastic sleeved, but they separate quite easily. Then set fire to the ends of them and let them burn back for 40mm or so. this will expose the copper ready for soldering. Note the common colour goes to the earth and the other colour goes to the centre of phono plug.
I have no idea which is left or right but someone on here will know I'm sure.
(I just guessed)
My area isnt good for Dab anything.
gave up on the TV bit ages ago.
If you look at the back of phone there is a removable plug for an external antenna which leaves the front socket for phono lead.
gameon said:
If you look at the back of phone there is a removable plug for an external antenna which leaves the front socket for phono lead.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As far as I know this is the GSM antenna socket, not the DAB radio antenna.
Typical, I will stop looking for a connector then!
I was at work the other week and had a slight problem.. how the hell do i get music from a TG01 into a sound desk.. I tried to use the micro USB to 3.5mm adapter with a 3.5 to 3.5mm cable into the desk AUX input, we also tried using a 3.5 to RCA cable... the final thing we tried to make sure it wasnt a problem with the desk was to go straight into the DJ mixer using a 3.5mm cable. nothing worked. but Iphones, Ipod, other MP3 players all work using this method...
any ideas folks?
Have you tested the supplied USB to 3.5mm with a normal earbud? do you get sound out of it?
The USB to 3.5mm cable is just a simple Analog Left/Right/Ground port and so it should work with any Stereo plug regardless of the destination
I suspect that the USB to 3.5mm you used is busted
you can also use a bluetooth adapter with 3,5mm plug, the one i use was 32,- euros and works perfect
Wandy_1974 said:
Have you tested the supplied USB to 3.5mm with a normal earbud? do you get sound out of it?
The USB to 3.5mm cable is just a simple Analog Left/Right/Ground port and so it should work with any Stereo plug regardless of the destination
I suspect that the USB to 3.5mm you used is busted
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not at all.
The TG01 does require a certain resistance to be presented to the device and it is this which it interprets as to how to respond.
If the two data lines D- and D+ are shorted, it will go into Charge mode. If it sees a resistance of around 20 Ohms or more it will switch the audio output to the micro USB port. Typical earphones will have an impedance of around 30 Ohms, while the input to many battery powered external speakers is 4 or perhaps 8 Ohms (ever lower on amplifiers). This is why your TG01 worked fine into the earphones but not your external feed.
This texts it's not mine (just the blue one). It was written for the great kevinpwhite, on MODACO some time ago. And it's true (I've made the resistor modification in a set of stereo amplified speakers than failed as Tomsutton said and now they work perfectly.)
You can read the full explanation here: (I'm xdalover on Modaco )
http://www.modaco.com/content/toshiba-tg01-tg01-modaco-com/298887/headphone-amplified-sound-output/
(from post #7)
Have a nice day
Pere said:
Not at all.
The TG01 does require a certain resistance to be presented to the device and it is this which it interprets as to how to respond.
If the two data lines D- and D+ are shorted, it will go into Charge mode. If it sees a resistance of around 20 Ohms or more it will switch the audio output to the micro USB port. Typical earphones will have an impedance of around 30 Ohms, while the input to many battery powered external speakers is 4 or perhaps 8 Ohms (ever lower on amplifiers). This is why your TG01 worked fine into the earphones but not your external feed.
This texts it's not mine (just the blue one). It was written for the great kevinpwhite, on MODACO some time ago. And it's true (I've made the resistor modification in a set of stereo amplified speakers than failed as Tomsutton said and now they work perfectly.)
You can read the full explanation here: (I'm xdalover on Modaco )
http://www.modaco.com/content/toshiba-tg01-tg01-modaco-com/298887/headphone-amplified-sound-output/
(from post #7)
Have a nice day
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cheers pete, Il dig out the specs of the desk and see what the resistance is, I dont remember it going into charging mode though..
Why would an Ipod work but the TG01 wont?
tomsutton529 said:
Cheers pete, Il dig out the specs of the desk and see what the resistance is, I dont remember it going into charging mode though..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If standard headphones works and aux IN don't work, no doubt. This is the origin of your problem
tomsutton529 said:
Why would an Ipod work but the TG01 wont?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Easy, an Ipod has a dedicated analogic output. Instead TG01 has a shared USB port with different uses...
Noticed this on mine when I wanted to play music from the phone on my stereo. VERY annoying, and a bit daft of them to do this, even though it's a shared port.
There should be a software option to enable the usb port for purely sound to allow it to pass it across. I see the hardware resistive work as a workaround not the solution (although well done on getting it working!!)
no way. toshiba support:
"There are no settings available on the phone in order to set up the electrical resistance."
tomsutton529 said:
I was at work the other week and had a slight problem.. how the hell do i get music from a TG01 into a sound desk.. I tried to use the micro USB to 3.5mm adapter with a 3.5 to 3.5mm cable into the desk AUX input, we also tried using a 3.5 to RCA cable... the final thing we tried to make sure it wasnt a problem with the desk was to go straight into the DJ mixer using a 3.5mm cable. nothing worked. but Iphones, Ipod, other MP3 players all work using this method...
any ideas folks?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With thanks to Pere for the kind words above re. my earlier explanations on this subject on MoDaCo....
....in addition, please note that all of these charactaristics are an intentional part of the micro USB AB 'On The Go' port design and will become increasingly the norm as more devices adopt uUSB.
There is at least one chip being manufactured, but as yet not available to individual purchasers, which will support an external plug in device capable of providing intelligent charging combined with concurrent audio out. Sort of configuration applicable to eg. a car hands free scenario. I imagine that such add-ons will start to become available in due course - this is one of the drawbacks of choosing what is still a leading edge device well over a year after it first appeared !
For the mixing desk input, I'd suggest using an isolating transformer (eg. these here) as the ideal means of coupling - this will provide the necessary impedance (typically >10kOhms) to make the TG01 respond with an audio output while also ensuring electrical separation and maintaining as high quality audio signal as possible.
I was on my nightly bicycle ride using Cardio Trainer and my Skull Candy Smokin Buds, and everytime id move the phone in my bicycle jersey near the headphone jack it would cause the music to skip/stop/ff sometimes try to voice search and sometimes try to redial out ... I can replicate the problem here at home by jiggling the headphone jack around abit .......... anyone else
Yes. I posted the exact same thing in Q&A forum. Got no response but I figured it out.
Sometimes when you plug in your headphones they are detected as a headset. It doesn't occur that often, just make sure the notification icon doesn't have the microphone part. Otherwise any shaking causes songs to skip, phone to freak out and voice dialer starts.
Apparently there's also an app that makes sure they always do connect in headset mode. I think I'll go replace my phone anyway.
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
I had the same thing happen yesterday. I was testing some speakers at a job site and the phone was going CRAZY. I pulled the phone out of the otterbox case and re-plugged the headphone in and it was fine. I think my problem was the case + cable was not making the correct contact. Today I had the headphones from a PSP plugged in (with case) and it was fine.
Looks like its the same thing that was heading to my evo4g. The headphone input is design for 3 ring conductor (for remote control) but your headphone jack has 2 ring conductor thus making your phone act weird. I brought an adopter (you can go search amazon) and it fixed the problem.
go to marketplace and download "headset blocker". it wont show up in your apps list. go to 1 of your homescreens, and add its widget. its a toggle that you turn on and off. when its on, none of the headphone control features will work, and it it should just play your music without skipping tracks and what not.
I have the same issue did you ever figure it out?
Like previously mentioned this is because it is designed for a 3 ring conductor. 1 is left, 2 is right, 3 is microphone/control. The controls are back track, forward track, pause/play/answer/hangup. If you have a pair of headphones with 2 conductor (which is fine and it is also designed for) you are good. If, however, you aren't making full contact (because of cases being in the way or you have a 'non standard' headphones, read: cheap ****) wacky things can happy from intermittent contact of the various points.
I've never experienced this on either phone, but, it is a thing and it makes perfect sense.
There is another possibility...that the jack is fncked up. Poorly soldered, defective jack, abused (all it takes it one good jerk on the cable to ruin everything).
It's not as random and wacky of a situation as it sounds like.
I have two different 2 ring (stereo) headphone cables from two different manufacturers and the cable has nothing to do with the issue in my case. The issue is not with headphone/earbuds and not with the cable not plugging in all the way. The issue for me is that when you have the headphone cable plugged into the jack and the other end is feeding any type of amp: stereo equipment, Aux input in a car, whatever, the phone absolutely loses its mind. I've tested it on three different phones now and it does it every time. The phone is unusable until you download, install, and activate Headset Blocker from the market. Then everything works perfectly. It appears to be a defect in either the hardware or the software because it is picking up electrical noise as headset control signals.
BTW, I've measured the cables and tested to be sure they plug in all the way. They are standard 2 ring (which means three conductor) cables that should not be triggering any headset functionality. Something on these phones is falsely triggering the headset connection: maybe some very small electrical signal or voltage coming from aux inputs because as I said, earbuds/headphones with the exact same connector don't have the problem.
Mike
I had the same problem and just swapped it for a new phone. If you're still under 30 days just take it back.
mikeyxda said:
I have two different 2 ring (stereo) headphone cables from two different manufacturers and the cable has nothing to do with the issue in my case. The issue is not with headphone/earbuds and not with the cable not plugging in all the way. The issue for me is that when you have the headphone cable plugged into the jack and the other end is feeding any type of amp: stereo equipment, Aux input in a car, whatever, the phone absolutely loses its mind. I've tested it on three different phones now and it does it every time. The phone is unusable until you download, install, and activate Headset Blocker from the market. Then everything works perfectly. It appears to be a defect in either the hardware or the software because it is picking up electrical noise as headset control signals.
BTW, I've measured the cables and tested to be sure they plug in all the way. They are standard 2 ring (which means three conductor) cables that should not be triggering any headset functionality. Something on these phones is falsely triggering the headset connection: maybe some very small electrical signal or voltage coming from aux inputs because as I said, earbuds/headphones with the exact same connector don't have the problem.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It sounds likely that it could be a grounding issue, probably on the amp side...though it could be on the phone side, especially if this happens to some phones and not others. If this is pro gear there is probably a ground lift switch on the back...give that a shot, if it doesn't help then it is definitely the phone...which I am leaning towards since it seems to happen on some and not others.
Headset Blocker from Market. I had a video on youtube about this and my thread is here.
i am having the same problem. thanks for the heads up for the headset blocker app. beats using up warranty or paying deductible for now.
I know this thread is 2 years old, but I figured bumping is better than starting a new thread. Anways, this issue has been driving me crazy to no end. Headset blocker stops the false signals. However, if it's in your pocket and the base of the jack is bent, (at least on Skullcandy products + HTC Inspire), music stops playing from the left ear.
Anyways, I figured out a solution to this. Cut a 3.4mm hole in a credit card, and then insert your headphone jack. Trim the card around where you insert the headphone jack. To get the right size hole, I use a knife to penetrate the card, and then use a screwdriver to widen the hole until it's about right. It should stop all interference and false signals, audio cutting when your phone is in your pocket and the headphone base is bent.
This also works on heaphones that have microphones; however, you have to remove the plastic piece if you want to use the mic.
Abaout those adapters on Amazon that someone mentioned; what do I search to find them?
daneurysm said:
It sounds likely that it could be a grounding issue, probably on the amp side...though it could be on the phone side, especially if this happens to some phones and not others. If this is pro gear there is probably a ground lift switch on the back...give that a shot, if it doesn't help then it is definitely the phone...which I am leaning towards since it seems to happen on some and not others.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, it's certainly on the phone side.
I've had the same issues plugging it into my car and into professional audio equipment.
Headset blocker is great. I just keep it on all the time.
It was pretty funny sitting in the car and realizing that it's dialing everyone on your contact list though. Couldn't make it stop even after unplugging it. It went crazy.
DjDom said:
Nope, it's certainly on the phone side.
I've had the same issues plugging it into my car and into professional audio equipment.
Headset blocker is great. I just keep it on all the time.
It was pretty funny sitting in the car and realizing that it's dialing everyone on your contact list though. Couldn't make it stop even after unplugging it. It went crazy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have the exact same thing on my device, but it happens with any headphones i have plugged in
moving them just a bit causes google now to launch repeatedly and the music to skip,play,pause,etc
to fix it i remember using a blocker from the market and editing the code that launches google now via headphones so the blocker would block it aswell
Hi All,
Per the discussion of this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1367120&highlight=usb+amazon+charger&page=3
I bought this Car USB Outlet Charger: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002F0200Q/ref=oh_o02_s00_i00_details
It charges under AC mode, but if I also connect the 3.5mm jack to my cars speakers there is a high pitched noise that increases as the RPM of my engine increases (for example if I put my car in neutral the sound is at the lowest frequency, and if i step on it the sound shoots up).
If I remove the charger from the phone the noise stops. If I begin playing music the noise also goes away. If I stop any playing music then the high pitch noise will return after a brief (~5sec) period.
It's not a terrible issue because it doesn't interfere with playing audio, but it is an issue if nothing is playing and the car speaker is turned on.
Would appreciate any insight.
Thanks,
DL
I have the same issue. It's not the phone, it's your car. You are hearing the alternator noise through the electrical. I have some friends who are car audio installers and what you have is a most likely a bad ground on the auxiliary port. I've tried with 3 or 4 phones with my car and they all do it while charging.
From what I understand there's 2 ways to fix it. Have an audio Installer open it up and ground it properly. This takes time and could be complicated depending where the fault is.
There's also a magnetic shielding thing tthat you can pass your auxiliary cable through which is supposed to be like $5. I've not tried the simple fix yet. I keep forgetting to ask what iit is exactly.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk
Well I was thinking it was an issue with the actual charger, not my car...
I've used a blackberry, and itouch before while charging and going to the car audio without the problem (but this was not with the Belkin adapter I linked to).
Just to be clear when you say an issue with grounding of the auxillary port you are referring to the the 3.5mm input, not the cigarette lighter port?
Let me try switching the cigarette port.
Yeah, the 3.5mm port. I've also tried changing chargers and nothing has made a difference.
so what you are saying is the issue is with my 3.5mm jack even though the noise doesnt come through if the charger is disconnected?
I've never had any problems with other devices when charging and playing audio.
Only with this particular usb charger and my rezound.
happens to me sometimes too...I just act like I'm in some kind of spaceship as I zoom down the highway
I'm thinking to buy something like this to power my devices, probably a good investment...
goo DOT gl/s0wO7 (can't post links yet, redirect to amazon for a powerline 200W power inverter)
Had the problem with a Verizon charger, took it back and the new one worked fine.
You could try some snap chokes (ferrite cores) they snap around the outside of the cables you may have seen them on some of your usb cables, they reduce interference
radio shack search "snap choke" they have two sizes that fit around the outside of the cable, 5mm and 3.5mm ... they come two to a package, try using them on the power wire and if that doesn't work try it on your aux output wire, they just snap on. you can snap them off if you want to remove them, you can use more than one on a cable if that helps
This is not a fix all and may or may not work but this is what they are designed for, it at least may cut down the noise some but no guarantee's
Once you search on radio shack, read the reviews on them you will see what some people are using them for, they are about $3.00 for 2 chokes
craigsdocks said:
You could try some snap chokes (ferrite cores) they snap around the outside of the cables you may have seen them on some of your usb cables, they reduce interference
radio shack search "snap choke" they have two sizes that fit around the outside of the cable, 5mm and 3.5mm ... they come two to a package, try using them on the power wire and if that doesn't work try it on your aux output wire, they just snap on. you can snap them off if you want to remove them, you can use more than one on a cable if that helps
This is not a fix all and may or may not work but this is what they are designed for, it at least may cut down the noise some but no guarantee's
Once you search on radio shack, read the reviews on them you will see what some people are using them for, they are about $3.00 for 2 chokes
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the suggestion. I will certainly take this idea into consideration.
I do think the piece is defective, but the amazon seller only offers a return, and it was only 5$, not sure if its worth the hassle.
The charging circuit on your alternator has a bad filter. The whine you're hearing is the AC generated...the frequency corresponds with your RPM. Basically, the rectifier diodes are doing what they are supposed to and putting that AC into the electrical system as pulsed DC, but there are capacitors and chokes that are supposed to smooth the current out so it doesn't stress out your equipment. It's possible the charger you got doesn't have a filter either. Ensuring your equipment has a good ground should help, but it may not fix the sound...you'd have to replace your alternator.
Its ground feedback. Could be anywhere in your car. Could also be the charger but probably not.
I have a similar effect, but fortunately it does go away once I start playing music. I only hear the noise when nothing is playing. I don't engine noise, just static. I know its related to the changing connect since it goes away when I unplug it.
I was thinking about seeing if there is something to impede interference that I can put inline with the cable or on it.
My aux audio was an PAC Audio connection that I installed, and the dock/charger I have is kind of cheap-o, so I figure its just the price of being frugal.
yes thanks all for the advice and feedback.
@ssb13 yes the sound interestingly stops right before any music plays, and then has a short delay before coming back after the music finishes.
I suspect a ground loop isolator would solve your problems.
Here's one from Kensington on Amazon:
http://tinyurl.com/6m58v6s
But there are several other makes that probably would work equally well. Just do a search on Amazon for a ground loop isolator.
Check out the comments on the Kensington one and see if the problems sound familiar.
I have the exact same problem! It happens with both the AC cigarette charger and the usb cable I have connected through my headunit. I have a cheap radioshack stereo cable as the connection between my rezound and the headunit, but when I've used headphones I don't seem to notice it either because the music is too loud to notice it or there isn't any interference. So I'm assuming the interference is caused by a feedback loop since power comes in from the charger and then audio goes out through the headphone jack and back into the car.
car charger noise
I purchased and installed an EMI/RFI suppressor from Mouser. It is a 2-piece ferrite cylinder that fits around the USB cable coming from the car charger/power supply. Unfortunately, it made absolutely NO DIFFERENCE in the noise. It is the same type of suppressor that is sometimes installed by the manufacturer on power supply output cables, so I was hopeful that it would work. Guess I will try looking for a loose ground connection.
[
A ferrite ("snap choke," "RFI suppressor") won't do a thing at audio frequencies. You're hearing whine from the alternator. It's worse because you have a ground loop - the phone is grounded by both the charger and the audio jacks. It's probably worse when no music is playing because the phone then turns off the output amplifier, making the output a high impedance and letting the noise be heard due to the ground loop. A ground isolator in the audio line will probably help, but may not completely eliminate, the noise. Why not get a Bluetooth audio adapter for your car?
Ground loops suck, at home they can be fixed by breaking off the grounding pin on a power strip and using that. But you can't do that in your car.
Hello i have a eonon car stereo running android 444 fuse rom i can only pick up 3 stations and they sometimes loose reception ive tried an amplifier and new eariel but with no luck any suggestions would be great.
I'd double check your harness connector to the oem antenna. Their was a pin loose on mine and once I bent the retention tabs back out and reinstalled the connection was much stronger.
Geekybiker said:
I'd double check your harness connector to the oem antenna. Their was a pin loose on mine and once I bent the retention tabs back out and reinstalled the connection was much stronger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its a Renault Megane and is just a standard connector.
Im now beginning to think its the components on the motherboard as the closer i get to the sauce eg: im from Wigan were Wish FM is broadcast if i drive past the studio its crystal clear same with Key 103 in Manchester. I think the radio chip on these is crap.
I think you need a power injector, because the antenna is active and needs power to work correctly. Just put the power injector between the radio and the antenna and connect the blue cable with the AMP or ANT cable of the radio harness...
Gesendet von meinem D6503 mit Tapatalk
I've had the same issue and solved it fortunately.
My Unit is a Joying RK3188 and came with a defect dual input power injector.
Easy steps to identify: At the output of these injectors (called 'phantomspeisung' in german) you sould measue 12V DC. These 12VDC sent over the 2pol antenna cable are for the antenna built in amplifier.
1st: I replaced the power injector with a diversity injector. Google for "Diversity Adapter 204.086-0) www.rta-online.com
2nd: Additionally to my amplified roof antenna I bought a second amplified antenna at amazon
http://www.amazon.de/Baseline-Conne...enne+AM,FM,+inkl.+Verstärker,+FAKRA-Stecker+F
Both together I've a really good reception now.
The diversity adapater really makes it's job. I is a littel high in price but worth at all.
Try putting some electrical tape around the Motorola male antenna plug at the head unit. What you are trying to accomplish is to insulate the area where the head unit housing may be in close contact with the plug. Takes a few seconds to try.
pounce said:
Try putting some electrical tape around the Motorola male antenna plug at the head unit. What you are trying to accomplish is to insulate the area where the head unit housing may be in close contact with the plug. Takes a few seconds to try.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...that's excatly what provided the very worst reception ever to me... So I looked around (tried a lot and spend some bucks on some useless amplifiers) and finally found the solution from my previous post. It works.
markusmuster said:
...that's excatly what provided the very worst reception ever to me... So I looked around (tried a lot and spend some bucks on some useless amplifiers) and finally found the solution from my previous post. It works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If putting insulating tape just around the plug where it would touch the housing (and not where the actual plug needs to mate up) gave you worse reception... you did something wrong.
I was under the impression that these units had issues with the software ( or hardware) or this is what I am told.
See here or am I mistaken?
dazza007 said:
I was under the impression that these units had issues with the software ( or hardware) or this is what I am told.
See here or am I mistaken?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its possible you are mistaken. The OP in this thread didn't provide any hardware specific details. Instead we know only version of android.
My units have no problem with radio reception, but I can simulate a problem if the connector touching the housing and impacting reception.
Other issues are not connecting the power to a stock antenna from the head unit when you install it. Even if you don't have an antenna that goes up and down you can have an amplified antenna. If you don't power it you don't get good reception. it can be something that is missed with wiring up the harness.
Yes, you can also have hardware problems, but its easy to rule out the external issues first before calling the unit the problem.
pounce said:
Its possible you are mistaken. The OP in this thread didn't provide any hardware specific details. Instead we know only version of android.
My units have no problem with radio reception, but I can simulate a problem if the connector touching the housing and impacting reception.
Other issues are not connecting the power to a stock antenna from the head unit when you install it. Even if you don't have an antenna that goes up and down you can have an amplified antenna. If you don't power it you don't get good reception. it can be something that is missed with wiring up the harness.
Yes, you can also have hardware problems, but its easy to rule out the external issues first before calling the unit the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you quote "my units have no problem," what software and hardware do you have in each, which motherboard, radio chip, etc etc
I part of me would like to believe that insulation is a problem here, but guys on the Russian forums have replaced capacitors to improve reception.
dazza007 said:
When you quote "my units have no problem," what software and hardware do you have in each, which motherboard, radio chip, etc etc
I part of me would like to believe that insulation is a problem here, but guys on the Russian forums have replaced capacitors to improve reception.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have Joying units. One of the 10.1" universal units with 3188 and a 7" universal unit with 3188. No idea about the specifics of the chips.
If you have a specific hardware unit that people are complaining about then you may have a problem with that unit from that manufacturer. That's realistic, but try the other tests first before performing surgery.
Problem is most likely a internal problem with the ground of the antenna input. This was the problem with my unit.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=55279871&postcount=3266
...
This is great. It really helps illustrate how people are interpret things differently.
You have put too much tape on the connector. You have essentially broken the connection by entirely covering the outer connector. It may not be been obvious to you that a motorola antenna connector needs contact on the pointy post and the outer shell.
What you wanted to do I carefully put just a little tape on the plug where is could touch the case of the unit in a circumstance where the alignment of the female connector inside the case attached to the PCB isn't perfectly centered for the case hole. When things are out of alignment there tends to be a connection between between case and the outer shell of the connector. When these things touch it can negatively impact reception.
Hehe... I made this photos this morning with an unused plug just to illustrate. I know that the connection is broken when insulated and also the it's impossible to work this way.
I also read several threads about that "put some tape on it" thing and heard dozens of interpretations.
A picture tells more than some thousand words.
To clarify that to all of us: Please be so kind and make some photos !
Thanks in advance!
markusmuster said:
Hehe... I made this photos this morning with an unused plug just to illustrate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To illustrate how you did it?
I know that the connection is broken when insulated and also the it's impossible to work this way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So did you do it correctly when you tried it on your unit or are you saying this now to show the mistake and now you understand you need just a little bit of tape like mentioned up thread?
pounce said:
To illustrate how you did it?
So did you do it correctly when you tried it on your unit or are you saying this now to show the mistake and now you understand you need just a little bit of tape like mentioned up thread?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You might have a grounding issue if you are having to do that. I believe another member noticed that the outer part of the antenna socket is internally grounded with a little bit of solder and some foil, he had noticed that the foil had become disconnected meaning the outer part of the socket was no longer properly grounded, insulating the plug like you have done would help in that situation, but it isn't the correct fix, regrounding the socket is.
jakejm79 said:
You might have a grounding issue if you are having to do that. I believe another member noticed that the outer part of the antenna socket is internally grounded with a little bit of solder and some foil, he had noticed that the foil had become disconnected meaning the outer part of the socket was no longer properly grounded, insulating the plug like you have done would help in that situation, but it isn't the correct fix, regrounding the socket is.
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You may have read up thread.
1) Check the connections like power for the antenna if you have that
2) check the plug to see if its contacting the case. Tape as needed.
3) Open the case and validate the connection to the female socket on the PCB.
4) Check your MCU firmware
5) Try another unit
This whole tape thing has me so confused. The outer shell of the Motorola plug has to touch the casing for earthing doesn't it? Yet you are saying to tape up only the bits that are touching the casing.
Totally confused.
Can someone put up a picture of what is the right way to tape it please.
I would have done exactly the same as markusmuster has in the pics.
Thanks