How to adjust your 3D pictures (and help your eyes) - HTC EVO 3D

I found this over at (therootofallevo.com) source link is here, sorry if it has been mentioned here before.
By Fernando Gonzalez
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Obviously one of the biggest aspects of the Evo 3D is the 3D capabilities. Some love it, some hate it, some just don’t care, and some enjoy it but just don’t use it often. Whichever side you’re on, I think we can all agree that sometimes the 3D content can strain your eyes a bit. Some people it’s more than just a strain, it can flat out cause a serious headache. From my personal experience, most 3D content on Youtube looks great and doesn’t bother me at all. Watching actual 3D movies looks incredible. Most of the 3D videos I’ve taken look great too and don’t bother me at all. However, the pictures can be a different story. I notice the pictures don’t align too well. When they don’t align right, that’s when the eyes start to strain. The more unaligned they are, the more your eyes will strain. Want to test it out? Take a picture in 3D, and move the Evo left to right, you’ll see the alignment of the two pictures. You’ll notice the closer together the pictures are aligned, the easier it is on your eyes…
WELL.. there’s an option with the 3D pictures that a LOT of people don’t know about —-
Adjust 3D alignment
I can tell you how much better it is on your eyes after adjusting (huge difference), but nothing is better than seeing for yourself first hand. So here’s a quick guide. It’s extremely easy,
1) Open up your camera (in 3D of course ) and take a picture..
2) Go to the gallery on the bottom left of the camera app
Here’s the demo picture I’m going to use: Notice how insanely unaligned the two picture are. This is the type of picture that REALLY strains the eyes bad. I can’t look at it for more than 2 seconds…
3) Tap the screen and select the icon that looks like a wand with sparkels:
(btw, I think the image tearing is because of the 3D effect)
4) You’ll get this popup and select Adjust 3D alignment
5) Now you’ll get this screen:
The left and right tabs is what allows you to adjust the two images taken. If you tilt the screen over you’ll be able to see both the images. Now here’s the trick. I’ll try and explain this without being confusing.. Because of how the images are taken, its impossible to get everything on both images to align perfect. So the key is to figure out whats your focus point of the picture. In my demo picture, its the box. So you adjust the image until the two images are aligned as best you can on the focus point, the box. You’ll notice outside of the focus point, like the monitor base and the black rag to the right, aren’t aligned that well compared to the box. But that’s fine, because again the focus point of the image is the box. So as long as you align the focus point the image will not only look much better, but it will be a million times better on your eyes
Here’s how my demo picture looked before the adjustment, then after..
While I think HTC really should have done a better job with the Evo 3D being able to automatically adjust the images, the fact that they threw this option in there is something to be very happy about. It’s a great option that can bring the fun back to 3D for those that get headaches and strained eyes. So what do you all think? Has it helped at all? If so, will you be taking more 3D pictures?

Wow probably the most helpful post ever lol. Thanks.
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA Premium App

Im glad it helped you out I was looking for info on a tripod since my hands shake so much and found this so since it helped me I knew it would help others here.

I have tinkered with this a bit and the only problem I have with it (although it does make for easier focus) is it leaves an overlap look to the sides of the screen where you adjust the pics from their native locations.

Thanks!
Wow, this really helped with a few of the pix I've taken that were hard to focus on!
One other tip that I've found useful when adjusting this setting is to close one eye. I found that my eyes were trying to focus on the main object (the box in your example) and it made it hard to tell when the pictures were actually aligned. By closing one eye and tilting the screen in such a way that both pictures were visible, I was able to align them much quicker.
-Mark

Related

Evo3D - camera software or lens problem?

Hello!
I'v noticed that left part of pictures taken by my HTC evo 3D are a bit blurry?
could you guys try to take some pictures outside, and inside and check it?
Using Leedroid ROM + Kernel
I will upload some pics as soon as I get home.
pic1
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pic2
Have you tried cleaning the lens first? A dirty lens can easily blur sections of the photo. I'm at work and on mobile so it's a little difficult to see in detail how the blurring is.
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
looks normal, whats wrong with the photos?
Taking another look on a monitor, I do see some things but unfortunately it's the software (most likely). What you're expecting is sharp photos, right? Who wouldn't? Well, the Evo 3D compresses the photos pretty significantly. There is/was an apk of the HTC Amaze camera floating around the GSM dev thread you can try. I'd recommend the apk to install vs the zip to flash so you can easily remove it. There's no compression with that one.
Could you take a picture of maybe a table, wall with some texture. I kind of see what you are talking about but cannot be for certain with the pictures posted. Are you seeing that in the first picture, the boats and the bottom of the light pole are a little blurry and on the 2nd picture, you are seeing the trees on the left blurry? If you could get a pretty solid object to take a picture of, it would make it easy to see.
I didnt had any colored textures around, so I used two pieces of paper with text on it.
1st - Right paper was focused in middle (Used light)
http://i.imgur.com/Sct7t.jpg
2nd - Left paper was focused in middle (Used light)
http://i.imgur.com/S3jXY.jpg
3rd - Focused in middle of papers (Used light)
http://i.imgur.com/qmfCJ.jpg
@tgruendler
Nice! Really sharp eye you got.
Will look at them tomorrow when I have a computer in front of me.
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium
Here some I took
I saw the blur in your pics man lol.. Dunno was that a finger print ? Fog maybe?
Amaze Camera thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1302943
About the blur, I get something close yet less strong on my phone. I bet it's the lens...
Kochise
reaper24 said:
Here some I took
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How the hell did you suceed to get such good photos?
I'm using Leedroid newest ROM and newest kernel with amaze camera.
What could be the problem?
If it's lens I would have to send it
sniperkiki said:
How the hell did you suceed to get such good photos?
I'm using Leedroid newest ROM and newest kernel with amaze camera.
What could be the problem?
If it's lens I would have to send it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used stock camera and stock kernel I always make sure my lens are clean and have at it with the right light.... I also never photo shop any of my pics I took lol.. I like the camera on the 3D just the 5mp takes great shots..
3D is kinda a gimmick not so much a fan of it but still like it...
That last pic is when a tornado was getting ready to touch down ....
I am on Fresh ROM by Flipz
So final solution is to send it on warranty?
Sending it back may mean you get hboot 1.5 if you don't already. I didn't see that much wrong but check for dirt or scratches on the lens as mentioned before. It could also be a hint of depth of field if its only affecting portions of the image. That's not likely with our lens, but it is possible. Macro photos with this camera have depth of field very obvious.
Iv'e clenead my lens, they are like "baby's ass" but I dont notice it on videos or 3D photos, only on 2D photos I notice that focus problems.... while on videos there is no such problem...
Please advice
kd_koCiz said:
Amaze Camera thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1302943
About the blur, I get something close yet less strong on my phone. I bet it's the lens...
Kochise
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sweet. Thanks for the link. I've been looking for it. Lol.

Curious Idea About 3D Headaches

So, I don't have any background or research into this and this is just speculation based on some observations. I might be on a completely other planet with this...
But, I hear a lot of people make the remark about how 3D gives them headaches or hurts their eyes. I'm sure there's a lot to it, but I'm also thinking it has something to do with how our eyes work vs 3d cameras.
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Our eyes criss-cross as we look at closer/further objects. If you don't believe me, try looking at your nose or have someone else look at their nose and watch their eyes. This is what we're used to, it gives us depth and the 2 varying angles of what we are looking at.
The Evo 3D, Optimus 3D, and virtually every other 3D camera I've seen has 2 fixed lenses pointing straight out. I understand why - it would be way too difficult to be able to know how much to angle the lenses based on what you're focusing on, it would be costly, and less durable. But because they're pointing straight forward and don't cross, it's really just recording a double image with little difference in the angle. Not to mention, this isn't a natural view.
I'm wondering if this has anything to do with the discomfort of people viewing 3D. I don't really have much of a problem with seeing anything in 3D, but I used to. When I first got my E3D, 3D pictures hurt my eyes, but video was fine. I later got glasses, found out my eyes are a hair pointing away from each other (to the point where it's not noticeable). Now, I have more depth from anything I watch in 3D and the photos don't hurt my eyes. But I do notice a double image effect if I look into the background on many things. I know this is because you can't exactly line up the whole image, but it led me to think about the differences.
Now this doesn't offer a solution and is probably a pointless post, but was an interesting idea that someone might enjoy discussing.
It'll strain your eyes some because they have to focus on the light from the screen instead of where it should be if looking past or in front of it. But, most of the headache is from your brain trying to figure out what the hell you're looking at. So basically people with weak minds get headaches more often.
If you can find 3D pics or videos with a slight border around them it helps out a ton with that. It also makes the 3D effect much more pronounced.
The issue with 3D is the content dictates what is in focus, not you. If you try to only focus on what is already in focus you should be ok. But it is when you try to focus on distant, out of focus objects, which you will never be able to actually bring into focus, that you cause strain
Dont forget the refresh issue too, you dont get your regular 60fps, you get (polarized left) (blank) (polarized right) (blank) and so on, and while you wont consciously "see" the blank screen your brain has to work harder to edit it, this increase strain by quite a bit.
xHausx said:
So basically people with weak minds get headaches more often.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if there is any way to OC our minds
NixZero said:
Dont forget the refresh issue too, you dont get your regular 60fps, you get (polarized left) (blank) (polarized right) (blank) and so on, and while you wont consciously "see" the blank screen your brain has to work harder to edit it, this increase strain by quite a bit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Our screens aren't polarized. Neither are our eyes equipped to handle polarized content.
3D videos are the standard fps for each eye and there's a parallax barrier that decides which image goes to which eye. Take a look at any 3D video, you can clearly see that each eye's image is there, full frame rate
two things happening
One reason for the headaches/eye strain is due a mismatch between where we focus and where we point our eyes.
As stated above, when we look up close our eyes point in (converge) and we bring the near object into focus (accommodate).
This works really well in the real world and helps our brains decide where things are in space.
With artificial 3D, we continue to focus (accommodate) at the screen, but in order to appreciate the 3D, we need to vary our convergence. This mismatch gives some people (about 20% of the population) varying degrees of eyestrain/headaches.
Great thread! Lotta nice info here.
I get eye strains with pictures only but Im okey with the videos.

Draw Something

Thanks to draw something, I'm considering getting this phone. Has anyone played it using the s-pen? If so how is it? I imagine it's super accurate to draw things and makes the game all the more fun.
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA
This phone ownes at this game. I have 20+ games going at any given time because I can drawl so much faster with a big ass screen and s-pen.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk
My friends say my phone's unfair because I can put so much more details in the pictures=)
anida123 said:
My friends say my phone's unfair because I can put so much more details in the pictures=)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly.... I love it!!!!
Sent from my SGH-I717R using xda premium
My wife is jealous as hell of my Note because I can draw awesome pics on it... Her pics on my old Inspire suck lol
anida123 said:
My friends say my phone's unfair because I can put so much more details in the pictures=)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
then he should get a tablet and use his finger.
like this guy:
http://kotaku.com/5894582/kotaku-re...draw-something-artist-ive-ever-seen/gallery/1
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D: That's all I have to say...just.... D:
I'm a horrible sketcher, but with the s pen it makes it so much more precise to direct your lines and fill color.
I drew Bowser yesterday and it came out a lot better than I thought it would. I would have done more, but it was telling me I was running out of ink lol.
I've been playing this game using my S-Pen. The stylus is a godsend for this particular app. Unfortunately, the nanosecond delay in inputs makes it so that my drawings look really cheesy. If I draw something, what I draw doesn't appear instantaneously ... there's always a very slight delay, but that delay caused major issues for accuracy. I don't see any solution to this problem.
Dr. Evo said:
Unfortunately, the nanosecond delay in inputs makes it so that my drawings look really cheesy...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yea...that's it, that's why my drawlings suck too, the delay is inhibiting my artistic abilities to drawl stick figures.
Those pictures are epic! I'm jealous of people who can draw.
The stylus action isn't quite as good as a full blown Wacom tablet or a tablet PC with Wacom pen like an older LE1600 (which I have), but it's a lot better than an iPad or iPhone with a mushy capaci-touch type stylus. There's some okay accuracy styli on iOS, just not really pressure sensitive.
My understanding is the S-Pen will be better supported with ICS. As it stands, there's a handful of suitable pressure-friendly paint apps already, more soon I should think. Doodledroid and Hello Color Pencil are two good ones.
Of course, the Note display isn't huge, but I did a few decent drawings on my iPhone with just my finger, so this is a lot better by comparison.
I never got around to trying Draw Something until I got the Note, but now I've got a good addiction going.
I'm kind of torn on some of the images. On one hand, they are spectacular - on the other hand wondering how long it takes to make them. I would love to use the Note & this game to improve my drawing skills (of which I have none of), but I don't want to spend an hour doing a drawing either.
I think the part I like the most is seeing how a drawing is done. There is a screen saved I used to love watching called Drawing Hand (google it) where you watch the artist draw the image using just a basic pen tool and a smudge tool. Always wanted to emulate by learning, but I just don't have the art skill.
Hoping DS will improve my drawing skill some. So far, looks like all my friends are about the same stick figure level that I am.
Is there a sight to see some art done by people, preferably with a way to see them draw it? There a way I'm missing to start a drawing, then come back to finish it later?
BTW - they got bought by zynga (sp) for a rumored 200 million today (!)
If you guys love draw something, and want to post your pics, do so here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1592757

Macro and tap-to-focus issues?

If this seems familiar, it’s because this was posted in the pictures thread, but got completely buried. In hindsight, this was out-of-place there.
Macro issue:
I set my phone at a fixed distance from an object – just close enough so that it couldn’t completely focus in “Auto” mode – then switched to “Close up” mode. “Close up” mode could not make it any more focused, nor did anything else in the background change. Is this supposed to be the case? The minimum focus distance seems to be about 2.2 inches, FYI.
Tap-to-focus issue:
I’m finding that I need to place the close-up object in the center of my viewfinder. This camera does not seem to want to focus on anything that is off-center if it is too close to the camera, even if you use tap-to-focus. The only time that tap-to-focus works is if you place the close-up object in the center of the viewfinder, then tap on a distant object. Below are my examples:
I placed the water bottle in the center of the viewfinder and tapped on the label to focus on it-
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Then, keeping the water bottle in the center of the viewfinder, I tapped on the Coke bottle in the background which brought that into focus-
Finally, moving the water bottle off-center, I again tried tapping on its label to focus on it, but with no luck. The only way to focus on the bottle with it in the foreground was to bring it to the center of the viewfinder-
The only work-around that I have found is by focusing on the close-up object while it is in the center of the viewfinder, then use the shutter button to lock the focus while I move it off-center. This is not the case on my friend’s iPhone 4S, nor do I think this was a problem on my OG EVO.
I actually found that tapping in the lower-left of the screen allowed me to focus in off-center objects (as long as they were on the left side of the frame). Anyone else have these issues?
Glad I found this thread. I hadn't fooled with the camera on this phone to use macros until today when trying to shoot flowers. I was shooting flowers in the sun and the camera was useless for macro shots. If the background is bright, it always focuses on the background and not what you are tapping on. In fact, even when the flower was dead center, it focused on the background. I can tell it is a software/firmware issue because in lower light, it works OK and it works fine if the entire subject is up close, like a concrete wall. Going to search for a solution... Surprised more people haven't noticed this.
Mike
mikeyxda said:
Glad I found this thread. I hadn't fooled with the camera on this phone to use macros until today when trying to shoot flowers. I was shooting flowers in the sun and the camera was useless for macro shots. If the background is bright, it always focuses on the background and not what you are tapping on. In fact, even when the flower was dead center, it focused on the background. I can tell it is a software/firmware issue because in lower light, it works OK and it works fine if the entire subject is up close, like a concrete wall. Going to search for a solution... Surprised more people haven't noticed this.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well you have to be careful around here. A lot of fanboy'ism when it comes to devices, so as soon as you say any negative thing about a phone in its forum people will be quick to blame you and call you a noob, lol.
With that being said, this phone has an excellent camera, but the camera software itself is very very subpar. I'm hoping an OTA launches sometime in the future addressing issues like this one.
For those of you having issues with your phones.
Try Macro (Close-Up) + Zooming in on the target.*
It should come out ok.
*For a temp work-around
Noiro said:
For those of you having issues with your phones.
Try Macro (Close-Up) + Zooming in on the target.*
It should come out ok.
*For a temp work-around
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually just found the same thing. If you touch the + magnifying glass to zoom in all the way, half press to focus on that, and then zoom out with the half press held, you can sometimes get a good focus. Seems like the focus just isn't working when in macro situations and zooming in like that gets rid of "clutter" around the subject that seems to confuse the focus algorithm.
Mike
I returned my first LTEvo because of issues it was having with autofocus. Half the time it would autofocus the other time it would sit there blurry and not focus or refocus on anything at all. Not sure if it was a hardware or software issue but it's no longer a problem on the new one I received.

Can't take a picture of anything red

Tonight on my way home, the sky above the mountains was a beautiful blood red and for some reason it comes across as orange / pink from far away and pink / white when zoomed in.
This is not the first cellphone camera to have taken photos where the reds didn't come through. My Galaxy S4, S5 and 7 were not able to take pictures of red either, it always turned out orange.
What am I doing wrong to not be able to get reds to translate.
Here are pictures from the different phones. All the red LEDs i used were from the same rolls I bought and were all supposed to be dark red, not orange in anyway. The closest i ever got was the lat photo and it's still only about half way there.
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Having a greater understanding of digital cameras and the software used to process the image as well as how they work together will help... I'm no expert, but suspect this link will help...
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3821409
Could be you need to be using more manual settings when you want to focus on a specific deep color or turn off any automatic processing. Could also be the relatively cheap sensors they're using in cell phones vs "real" camera sensors being used on the higher end in full body shooters.
Looks like you're over-exposing the parts you actually want red by exposing for other parts of the frame. In the mountain shot, there are other spots that are red. The last shot with the clock and hazard button, the hazard button is close, maybe migrating a little into the pink or magenta shades. (Can see a bit of magenta cast in other parts, so a WB adjustment needs to be made.) Shifter photo I can see a bit of red reflecting off of the upper shifter shaft but the actual lights are overexposed if they were red or orange. The bed frame you have some red at the bottom of the frame but as you get closer to the light source it washes out. So overall, I'd say it's an exposure issue that isn't really the camera's fault.
The sky with mountains you're running into a dynamic range issue and that'll be a problem for just about any camera. A scene like that would require more than just a couple of frames blended together. You're looking at a background that is essentially still extremely bright compared to the rest of the frame as it is "indirectly" lit by the sun. The foreground is the next brightest as it is close wide spread light sources. The mountains themselves and band of town directly below them are the bottom end of the exposure and where your reds will get to be reds.
The other issue is that sensors all tend to have a bias towards a color that they shoot well and one they don't. For a VAST majority of sensors, red will tend to blow out first. This goes for large pro sensors all the way down to cellphones. It's just one of the many things you learn when you dive into when really getting to know your tools. That's why high end cameras have had RGB histograms for the longest time, so you can keep an eye on reds clipping. The Camera FV-5 app has the ability to show a live RGB histogram. At this point in my shooting though, I just shoot then look at the overall frame and the areas I feel really matter. If I like it or know I can work with it, I keep it. If not, then I readjust my settings and reshoot.
you miss to take a photo with google camera, on v30!
Lyvyoo said:
you miss to take a photo with google camera, on v30!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry can you say that again?
slight22 said:
Sorry can you say that again?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think he's saying that you should have used the Google camera app, word is that it takes far better shots on auto, particularly in situations like this where HDR/HDR+ would be on.
It seems it was posted a while back, try giving it a go.
Yes, thank you Septfox. I'm sure that Google Camera app will bring much more DR and overall improved results on V30. Don't forget to come back with conclusions!
Example here (V30 vs Pixel 2, and after V30 with Google Camera vs Pixel 2)
There seems to be a lot of variance on the different versions of the Google Camera app. Even different versions of the same port can be a bit hit or miss. I've had a mixed bag of results with it. Last port I used a couple of nights ago, I ended up using the LG camera app shots instead of the Google Camera app ones.
slight22 said:
This is not the first cellphone camera to have taken photos where the reds didn't come through. My Galaxy S4, S5 and 7 were not able to take pictures of red either, it always turned out orange.
What am I doing wrong to not be able to get reds to translate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reds blow out first. You have to underexpose to prevent that then brighten shadows and the rest up in a photo editing program. Take it with EV -2 say or less as required. Do that and you will be able to do better than the pixel camera
YMMV, a sunset might be too much to get due to difference in the sky and the ground. So help the camera. Take it when its darker but still red that way the difference between brightest and darkest will be less
It always comes down to one thing, silcon based computing can't keep up with carbon based ie. YOU
Thanks everyone for the thoughts and i will try the google photo app.
Update - So I tried the Google Pixel photo app (had to download the APK) with HDR on still doesn't seem to do the job with reds. The elevator button is a solid red, and again looks pink.
Again, you need to dial back the exposure. Just switching apps isn't going to do the trick.
Yep, try using EV -2 as a quick workaround. If that isn't enough you might have to speed up the shutter to go further.
The idea is to expose it right. Red should appear as red in the photo. Never mind if the photo appears underexposed. It can be brightened later.
You are taking a photo of a light source. The elevator button and everything else is darker in relation. This in itself could be tricking the camera into thinking the scene is too dark and it brightens it up and blows out the red.
Cameras still don't know what they are taking photos of. They need guidance

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