Hello,
I have the three EVO 4G phones and one EVO 3D phone. Along with a few different car chargers including ones from HTC,Rocketfish, PointMoblm, 12v USB radio plugin,12 volt to 110volt with USB plugin and wall charger plug.
The problem I am having is when I travel distances over 100 miles using GPS "Google Maps" and/or Pandora streaming. The Battery get so hot it stops charging or will randomly reboot phone and the battery is dead or close to being dead when I get to my destination.
Is there a way that I can run the phone without the battery or software mod that will stop battery charging in different time intervals while in car mode.
Any tips or modifications on 12v chargers I can try?
Maybe you could try under clocking the cpu during these trips.
Reducing the CPU will reduce the heat it produces as well as the drain on the battery. Both will help with your heat problem.
I have the same problem with my E3D and the underclocking didn't work. My phone is underclocked when the screen is off, but when I picked it up it was like hot coal.
I paid a total of about £2.50 (£1 for car USB connection + £1.50 USB cable) for the charger, so was wondering if it's the quality of the items.
I plug mine into the cigarette lighter too, so don't know if this is part of the issue.
I will try to lower Cpu during AC charging first since my primary charger charges at AC.
How low should I start? I have SetCpu to max 486 and 192 min with screen off.
Related
Guys, I know this has been discussed before but this problem is subtly different to previous requests so I'm posting again.
So this is an X10 running 2.1
I have a car charger which is a 2.1amp ipad charger. I also have a 1amp standard car charger. I do not have an SE branded car adapter, but both of the above adapters trigger the charging on correctly as far as i am aware.
If I just leave the phone on charge with the screen off it charges up just fine.
If I leave the screen on with no apps running it charges fine (slower than above)
If I run Copilot with APN Data enabled the battery slowly discharges, even though the charge light is on, and the battery indicator indicates charging.
If I run Copilot and disable APN Data the battery just stays at the same level and neither charges nor discharges. It seems to meet a state of equilibrium.
I ran Copilot with APN enabled and SetCPU limiting the CPU to 225MHz and the battery still discharges (albeit at a slower rate than without SetCPU).
I have the phone screen on minimum brightness and I am not running anything else unnecessary. I have checked battery temperature and I have never seen it above 32 degrees.
The same applies for Google navigation instead of copilot. Both discharge the battery whilst on charge.
I also noticed the other day that something went a bit mental on the phone and was consuming high CPU while the phone was on my branded SE AC wall charger and the battery ran down until the phone turned itself off whilst on charge.
So, does anyone else experience the fact that the phone does not draw enough power via the USB port to cover the current draw on the battery. I have 2.1 amps available on the car adapter and its clearly not drawing anywhere near that. Running it on the 1 amp charger also makes no difference. The SE branded AC adapter is rated at 750mA.
Is this normal?
Any clues?
At the moment to complete a 6 hour journey in the car using satnav on my X10 I have to take 2 or 3 fully charged batteries with me, in addition to having it on the charger.
Graham
The stock charger from Samsung was for 0.7Amps and it charges ok, but I find it slow.. about ~4 hours to fully change my SGS2 from with less than 10% left of battery life.
If I plug into the laptop, it takes like ~6 hours due to the slow trickle charge with 0.5Amps.
I don't know what the max pull is allowed on this phone, but I did find that when I charge with a 1Amps charger, I can get it from less than 10% to full in about ~3hours.
So, I tried a few such charges and have noticed some strangeness.. (all with the same test conditions, start charging with less than 10% and with the stock usb cable for the phone)
1) older Belink ac-usb 1Amps out put, it does seem to charge the phone good and faster finishing around ~3 hours ... but, when charging, the touch sensitivity of the screen is out of whack, any subtle movement, will cause the screen to jump around.. like in gallery, trying to select an individual pic is difficult as the screen jumps around; forget about using the browser and selecting links...not sure why..
2) HTC thunderbolt charger 1Amps output (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WM6SOU).. same issue here, charges faster, but makes the screen jump around
3) iPhone charger 1Amps output; this seems to work the best for me so far.. charges faster ~3hours and while charging the screen behaves normally, I am able to use gallery and browser fine...
4) iPad 2 charger 5.1 V and 2.1Amps: Still charges the phone ~3 hours, but same side effect...
Anyone else have the screen sensitivity issue and what chargers are you using?
I haven't seen any issue when I used a HP TouchPad Charger rated at 2.0A I think..
Max pull is 650 mA - this is set by the charger chip itself.
If the phone thinks you have a normal USB connection to PC instead of a dumb charger, it will be 400 mA.
Having a charger rated more than this won't hurt, but it won't help.
Monoprice "1A" car chargers are rated 300-400 mA at best - the ONLY monoprice product I've ever been unhappy with in my life.
In general, you want to make sure USB D+ and D- are shorted together by the charger - this guarantees that the phone sees the charger as "dumb" and goes to 650. Exception are media and car docks - whatever you connect to these will be assumed by the phone to be a high current "dumb charger".
All phone power usage (CPU, screen, etc.) counts against this current budget - e.g. if you have 200 mA of load, only 450 will be going into the battery.
Unlike the I9100, we don't appear to have any way to change these charging currents. Our phone, for whatever reason, has an additional chip for charge control (MAX8922) instead of using the charge control built into the main power management chip (MAX8997). This is disappointing, I was really hoping to bring over the "charginghacks" modifications from my Infuse kernel series.
Has anyone noticed that phone does not charge while using GPS. The charging indicator is on but when I look at the stats it says discharging at -450 mAh. Is this the way it is and if so, is there a fix? 1 hr 42 m with 73% display on battery use and 43% charge remaining, but was plugged in the entire time while driving under an hour home. I am using the same Motorola high performance charger that every other phone is charged fully even when using GPS.
are you absolutely sure the charger is giving the full 1A?
What sensor app are you using to see the battery discharging?
Mine charges normally with gps on.
Sent from my HTC
LTE 4G Rezound
I was curious so I tested this with "Battery Monitor" I have it plugged into my laptop currently which only gives +500mA. and not the +1A that you get from a wall/car/high power usb port.
the app is showing +257mA with GPS on and functioning normally.
So charging good here... Might be something with your motorola charger? It could have a sensor in it to detect 'trickle charging mode' that is improperly engaging when connected to the HTC causing the charger to put out a minimal 'sustain only' level of amperage.
good luck!
you need a charger putting out 1A ... most car chargers put out 500mA so find a good one off monoprice
Here's what I'm doing. I have a Belkin 2.1A(2100mAh) USB car charger dongle. The problem is, once i connect the USB cable to it the phone registers it as "Charging USB" and does notcharge anywhere near as fast(power-wise) as if the phone was registering it "Charging AC". I'm not keen on using a power inverter to get the full AC charge so instead i am going to go pick up a cheap micro USB cable, splice it open, then disconnect the data wires(green & white ones) & then tape it back up. By disconnecting the data wires, the phone will no longer think it's a USB connection and then charge via AC, getting the best charge possible.
that should work ^ if thats the problem
I've found that using the included USB cable with a Belkin dual port USB car charger allows the phone to charge as if it were plugged in to a wall. I'm guessing the included cable has a different layout than standard Micro USB cables.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda premium
dawynkoop said:
I've found that using the included USB cable with a Belkin dual port USB car charger allows the phone to charge as if it were plugged in to a wall. I'm guessing the included cable has a different layout than standard Micro USB cables.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm guessing that I have the same belkin dual port (2.1amp and 1amp ports) and the best I've seen out of it is about 250mah charging. This is using the supplied usb/micro hdmi whatever cord for the phone.
I have seen discharge rates off the charger of 750mah which is the highest I've seen on any phone. I'm guessing if you are using the nav on your phone with the screen on, it will probably still be using battery while plugged in.
thatsricci said:
I was curious so I tested this with "Battery Monitor" I have it plugged into my laptop currently which only gives +500mA. and not the +1A that you get from a wall/car/high power usb port.
the app is showing +257mA with GPS on and functioning normally.
So charging good here... Might be something with your motorola charger? It could have a sensor in it to detect 'trickle charging mode' that is improperly engaging when connected to the HTC causing the charger to put out a minimal 'sustain only' level of amperage.
good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Possible, but says AC charging in Battery Monitor widget. I will post a few pics.
Here are a few Pics. you can see a couple of things.
-Charger rated at 950 MA out. and no other phone I have owned lost a charge while driving including TBolt, Charge, Bionic.
-Shows as AC charging
- Spikes of good charging detected
Put on Normal power mode today on the way in. live wallpapers did not wrok, just flickered. 3G on vice 4G. Battery still went down, but above 90% on 40 minute drive in. Screen low but on. Bluetooth speaker.
Maybe it is the iBolt car mount. See review online. will try without dock this afternoon on my way home.
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User: marc frederick, Nov 25, 2011
Pros: Options for different backs
Cons: Does not charge the phone while it is in use
Try playing pandora when the phone is 100 charged. After 45 minutes on the car mount (and yes it is plugged into a charger and all indicatros show it is charging) and the charge level is 84. Using the same charger but plugged into the phone, playing Pandora for 45 min starting charge level 68. Ending charge level is 100.
Yeah, something is telling that charger to not give you full juice
Rezound
ok, drove home off the window mount and just on charger, all same except full brightness on screen.40 minute drive. came up 7% battery vice down from 100 to 43%. nedd a few trials to confirm, but looks like window mount is throttleing juice.
thatsricci said:
are you absolutely sure the charger is giving the full 1A?
What sensor app are you using to see the battery discharging?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have seen spurts up to 913 with GPS off and screen just turned on. Using battery monitor widget. Not on window mount, just charger.
I can confirm. The car dock will not charge your phone atleast not with the screen on and nothing else running but battery monitor widget.
I bought one and tested it extensively yesterday. I used a Verizon 1a charger and a generic 1a charger. With the dock and both chargerz the phone DIScharged(as in LOST battery power) at between 100ma and 200ma. Without the dock using the same chargers and changing nothing on the phone the phone charged at between 50a and 300ma.
I did the test several times to eliminate any random things the phone may have been doing in the background.
After doing that controlled test I played with it some more and no matter what I did I could not get a positive charge with the dock attached even in airplane mode with the screen backlight at minimum. Without the dock using the same chargers i ran Pandora and a police scanner both outputting through the phone speaker, gps, wifi, mobile all on, and screen on auto and still had a very small positive charge.
Moral of the story DO NOT BUY THIS DOCK unless you dont mind it just being a piece of plastic that holds your phone in place.
I wonder if there's a quick mod to it to get it working right. Like the soldering of the USB chargers I've seen.
Rezound
I just went ahead and bought an extra battery so I wouldn't have to charge in the car. Only takes 20 seconds to pop in a new battery.
Can charge both batts while I sleep at night.
Sent from my Galaxy Tab 10.1
I was looking for a high current charger for my Android tablet and there was a review that talked about compatibility. Some of the high cap chargers appear to be designed for Apple products and the pin wiring is subtly different. So, on some non-Apple products, the charge is only recognized as a lower power, 500mah charger and the users reported that some devices would normally charge and others would not. Some of the dual port charges also split the power. The 2.1 amp port and the 1 amp port cannot be used at the same time, depending on what is plugged into them. This was also brand specific. I ordered the Amazon Basics 2.1 amp dual charger and will see how that works. I have noticed a difference in charge rates between my Motorola charger left over from the Blackberry and the Verizon OEM one. The VZW one is faster.
I do the same thing I have been doing since my Windows phone days.
I use the AC cord plugged into a 12v to AC adaptor(screen set to 100% bright and no timeout).
I drove 6 hours last week ruuning Google Maps/GPS & my battery was 100% charged when I got to my destination.
~John
Are all USB car chargers like this? Can I prevent this by getting a higher quality charger? When I'm not using maps or navigation (or turn off the screen for a while), then it'll slowly charge back up.
fungosaurus said:
Are all USB car chargers like this? Can I prevent this by getting a higher quality charger? When I'm not using maps or navigation (or turn off the screen for a while), then it'll slowly charge back up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
GPS is usually a big energy hog. How many amps is your car charger?
You should be able to get away with a higher amperage charger, but the trade off may be reduced battery life.
fungosaurus said:
Are all USB car chargers like this? Can I prevent this by getting a higher quality charger? When I'm not using maps or navigation (or turn off the screen for a while), then it'll slowly charge back up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How fast does it discharge? I just went on an out of state trip last week and had gps on with the charger plugged in for several hours at a time. I didn't pay attention to the actual charge numbers, but it either discharges very gradually or charges very gradually. I could probably run it all day with the charger and gps without a problem. I don't recall the amp output of my car charger, but it is one of the cheap foreign models.
fungosaurus said:
Are all USB car chargers like this? Can I prevent this by getting a higher quality charger? When I'm not using maps or navigation (or turn off the screen for a while), then it'll slowly charge back up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reflash your ROM, dude. I had that problem on one of my initial GB ROM's where I had bad drain using GPS while charging in my car. I redownloaded and wiped everything and reflashed the ROM and everything was good.
Sent from my SGH-I777 using XDA
If you are running a custom ROM, you can use SetCPU (or any other CPU clock control app that allows profiles) to set max of 800MHz when plugged in. This should at least get you to even charge/discharge levels when plugged in and running GPS while driving. Probably will depend on your screen brightness.
I don't run GPS long term very often right now, but I was for a while and FWIW, I was able to stream pandora, run google maps with screen on, not have any lag, and get a slow charge from my car charger by limiting clock speed to 800MHz.
Your other option (and what I usually do) is turn off the screen during longer sections of GPS nav with no turns (like sections of highway). You'll still get audible notifications for the next turn/maneuver/interchange/whatever, and you can turn the display on then if you need visual along with audio nav. The phone shouldn't have any problem charging and running GPS with the screen off...
fungosaurus said:
Are all USB car chargers like this? Can I prevent this by getting a higher quality charger? When I'm not using maps or navigation (or turn off the screen for a while), then it'll slowly charge back up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not all USB car chargers are alike. You need two things:
1. The car charger outputs higher current than 500ma. You need at least 700ma.
2. The charger is wired correctly to be recognized by phone as AC charger instead of PC USB port so that the phone will actually draw more than 500ma for charging. You can go to phone's status page to read what charge mode it is using.
Most iDevice chargers will not meet #2.
I have a stock Samsung car charger and it charges my phone while using Google Nav.
Thanks for the tips guys.
My phone discharges at around 1% every 20 minutes or so. I've been doing things like turning the screen off during periods of downtime to help with this (actually charges when I do this).
I'm using cheapy car adapter actually that has two usb ports and 2 cigarette ports in it and I use that with a samsung branded usb cable.
Hm yeah I'll try and see if limiting the CPU will help and if it does perhaps I'll just do that from now on.
foxbat121 said:
2. The charger is wired correctly to be recognized by phone as AC charger instead of PC USB port so that the phone will actually draw more than 500ma for charging. You can go to phone's status page to read what charge mode it is using.
Most iDevice chargers will not meet #2.
I have a stock Samsung car charger and it charges my phone while using Google Nav.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you know of any other options that are wired correctly to draw more than 500ma? I think I did hear from somewhere that charging via usb is considerably slower than when using the wall charger. Do you know of any other options that would fulfill this requirement besides getting the stock Samsung car charger? Also I assume just finding a higher amp charger wouldn't work if the phone detects it as a usb charger instead of an AC charger?
fungosaurus said:
Do you know of any other options that are wired correctly to draw more than 500ma? I think I did hear from somewhere that charging via usb is considerably slower than when using the wall charger. Do you know of any other options that would fulfill this requirement besides getting the stock Samsung car charger? Also I assume just finding a higher amp charger wouldn't work if the phone detects it as a usb charger instead of an AC charger?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The correctly wired charger will typically short the USB data PINs. iPhone charges and most generic car chargers with UBS ports don't do that. Most HTC chargers and Motorola chargers will work on Samsung phones. You need take a look at your car charger to see how much amps it can supply (listed on the spec label). The PC usb can only output 500ma max per spec. It is not enough to charge the phone while keep the screen on, GPS running and 3G connection active. Your Samsung OEM wall charger is rated 700ma. So, you need a car charger that outputs at least 700ma.
You then need to verify from the phone that the particular charger is recorgnized by the phone as AC charger. Without that, the phone will only draw 500ma max.
I'm on vacation and if i didn't have two battery's i would be lost. For some reason while running navigation i still lose battery even while plugged into charger. Any reasonable input is well appreciated.. Thanks guys..
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Is your screen brightness all the way up? That's a battery hog.
Also what kind of charger is it plugged into? If it's a cheap off brand it might not be enough power.
Is any thing else running?
I use Google nav all the time and it barely charges when plugged in. But it does charge.
It's really an issue of how much juice your charger is pushing out vs. the power needed for your screen, apps, and GPS. I have a USB connection in my car that I use and it definitely losses power while charging under said conditions. I'm able to counter this by simply turning off the screen whenever possible (like when you don't have to make a turn for several miles).
In order for our phone to charge while using Navy (whether Google or any other 3rd party Navy app), your car charger needs to put out MINIMUM 1amp. MINIMUM. Download current widget from the app store. It will tell you how much your charger is putting out.
(The units in the widget is off by 1000. Ie if the output is 900, then it is 0.9A.). A value ranging above 500 or 0.5A should be what you are getting on a regular charger. Close to 0.9-1A. This value will fluctuate a little as the batter reaches full charge and while the phone trickle charges.
USB and cheapie car chargers usually give you no more than 500 or 0.5A. Running NAV or watching video while plugged into this connection. Will not charge the battery. Usage exceeds the charge current.
Even using GPS on a 1A charger will not give you full charge speed. I would recommend a 2A charger if you want to be able to charge while using the NAV.
I am using a Samsung 2A USB car charger myself. Since the charger is capable of delivering 2A, while the NAV is running, the charger is capable of providing full charge.
There is a circuit in the phone that prevents excess current. (Well from what I have read, and my usage so far. Current widget has never shown anything over 1A-1.2A).
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda app-developers app