I'm trying to disassemble the dock because one corner of it doesn't seem to be fitting properly, causing it to be raised and making the dock unbalanced.
I found instructions on how to disassemble by first removing the screws under the two rubber feet near the hinge, then popping off the plastic case. My problem is that I can't seem to get the back plastic piece to come off.
I'm lifting it up right near the hinge, but the two corners of the dock remain stubbornly stuck. I'm afraid of applying too much leverage, as I don't want to break it.
Am I doing something wrong?
I just did this yesterday, and yes it is a pain. I managed to get the back off by using an old subway club card. Just start where you are at the hinge and try to slide the card along the crack. Theres about 20 tabs in there holding it all together so you need to wiggle the card a bit to loosen them. Once you go all the way around you need to make sure the hinge is in the open position. Im not sure what causes it but with the hinge closed the back plastic wont come off.
Just be patient and careful and stay away from the screwdriver like me. That metal is extremely fragile and I chipped it a whole lot being too aggressive.
First and foremost, doing this and telling asus about it will void your warranty.
Warning: Failure to follow my instructions right down to the letter will result in your in-laws camping out at your place for a month.
(1) Take out anything that's in your full size sdcard slot. Flip your keyboard upside down so that the keys are facing down.
(2) Gently but surely remove the 2 rubber pads that are the closest to the connection between your TF and the dock.
(3) Under there, you will find 2 small screws. Unscrew them. Please don't lose the screws.
(4) Flip the dock over so that the keys face up towards the sky.
(5) Write me a check for $3000 USD.
(6) Use your right hand and hold down the part where the TF makes the connection. Curl your left fingers into a hook, put it under the dock, and pull up. After the left side of the dock is severed, reverse and do the right side.
(7) Now that both left and right sides are off, continue to lift up the top of the dock until the side towards you loses the connection as well. Be careful not to remove too fast. There are wires connected between the 2 parts.
goodintentions said:
(5) Write me a check for $3000 USD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Related
Hi All
When I looked around for a bike and car mount for my Touch HD I wasn't very happy with what was available.
Specifically I wanted a 'protective' mount that would keep the phone dry and dirt/mud free, I also wanted to be able to leave the phone in the unit and step away without someone being able to grab the phone easily (I realise if someone wants to steal it they'll do it, however I want to at least slow them down if they try).
After searching I found the Ram Mount AQ3. It seemed perfect as it had a clear cover and was lockable, however it was 2mm too narrow to fit the phone.
Dremel time.
http://www.ram-mount-uk.com/ram-hol-aq3.htm
To achieve the following you need about an hour of time, a Dremel with standard fittings, a steady hand and a bit of concentration. If you've not used a dremel on plastic before I'd suggest practising on other tough plastic to get an idea of how the dremel reacts before going to work on your RAM Mount.
Please follow all the standard safety precautions using your Dremel, it's not my fault if you cut off your finger or an exploding bit blinds you.
The plan was to increase the internal width of the mount by about 1mm on each side and to have a cutaway that would allow a mini usb connector to fit the phone while it is in the mount.
IMPORTANT NOTE
Do NOT use the Dremel on a high speed setting, this generates heat and causes melting rather then the grinding you need. I used my Dremel on the lowest speed setting and constantly moved the area being worked on, after about 2-3 minutes on a 'side' I'd change to the other side to ensure the plastic didn't get heat buildup that would cause melting.
I decided to use a Dremel grinding tip to achieve my objective, specifically...
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/AttachmentsAndAccessories/Pages/AttachmentsDetail.aspx?pid=932
Make sure the Ram Mount is securely positioned and that you have good access to allow you to work across both the internal sides you want to grind. TAKE YOUR TIME.
You want the whole side of the Dremel bit to be in contact with the plastic, try to avoid angling the bit as you'll find that either just the top edge or bottom edge of the bit will be grinding the plastic.
Working in a smooth consistent way start to grind the internal area of the mount on one side, work gently from side to side on the area and do not stay on one part too long, heat buildup and melting happen surprising quickly and plastic will not grind if it's melting. Do not press down on the plastic too hard, let the bit do the work for you.
After working both sides say 5 times get a vacuum cleaner and remove all the ground residue that is in the area, use your finger to rub the internal areas to remove any small particles and vacuum thoroughly again.
Install the two thin padding sheets supplied with the mount and then install the phone.
Test to see if your phone now fits flush, if not try to identify the areas where you need extra grinding and rework them, try to ensure you remove equal amounts from both sides of the Mount. Always vacuum before trying to mount the phone, the dust grinding produces is extremely small and could get inside your phone if you're not careful.
When you're satisfied with the flush fit you then have to remove some extra plastic from the area near the volume buttons, with the phone fitted visually identify the top and bottom position where the buttons sit and spend maybe 2 minutes further grinding that area. Vacuum and install the phone to ensure the buttons are not pressed when the phone is fitted, repeat till you're happy.
You should now be able to mount your phone, fit the clear plastic cover and close and lock the lid, this should all be possible without the volume buttons reacting inside the case.
If you've got here well done, the next step is fairly straightforward.
With the phone fitted identify where the mini usb connector is on the phone, mark or score the plastic at both ends of the connector, remove the phone from the mount.
Using the following cut off wheel cut into the mount at the previous two marks.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/AttachmentsAndAccessories/Pages/AttachmentsDetail.aspx?pid=409
Again be careful using the cutting tool, the plastic will heat up and melt quite quickly.
Once you've cut down into the plastic on both the marks then cut at a 45 degree angle into the plastic that's going to be removed, you want to cut a V shape within the marks. Using the cutting tool keep working to remove blocks of plastic within the marks until you can mount your phone and connect a mini usb connector.
That's it, you should now have a secure lockable box that your Touch HD fits in perfectly.
Good Luck
Sorry about the photo quality, my flash camera is elsewhere at the moment.....If people are interested I'll take detailed photo's next week.
Case Closed
Case Closed with Cover in Place
Mini USB Cable attached
Any pics of the result ???
Thank you very much for this tips.
Photo's added above
i got this one crackinbg box
http://www.otterbox.com/handheld-pda-cases/1900-series-pda-case/
jez
Hi,
I recently purchased a HD2 on eBay. It was supposed to come immaculate but unfortunately there are dents on almost all corners. Rest if perfect.
I saw on eBay some chinese sellers selling new housing + battery covers for ~25 USD. So why not replacing the housing then? I decided to give it a try.
Well I have to say that it really did not work like in the videos I saw on youtube. I removed the 4 screws under the battery cover, gently pressed the back of the LCM outward but it really refused to pop out (no even half an inch). I discarded the pry tool (a very thine credit card actually) and even tried using a suction cup on the digitizer to pull it backwards but same problem. It's like the LCM/chassis was glued on the bezel. Phone has never been disassembled before (white sticker and void screw were still both there).
This is strange because in all the videos I saw the LCM/middle chassis was clearly not glued on the bezel. It immediately popped out a bit then you could start prying (and praying!). Ok I know that in those videos usually the phone has already been disassembled before so other attempts require less force to do it again for the recording.
My questions now to all the people who managed to do this. Did this require so much force? Is there a change and is HTC now glueing this part the LCM/middle chassis to the bezel? Any suggestion? Where is for you the best place to insert the pry tool when you start?
Thanks and regards,
Try flexing the plastic bezel above the earphone outwards a little while applying slight pressure to the sticker area on the back. There're two notches above which locks the frame to the pcb.
Hi,
Thanks for your help.
I will try that later.
I guess I might need to find a better pry tool.
BR.
Ok I managed to do it.
This required clearly some force on the pry tool (actually I used two plastic cards : a very thin and flexible one than a credit card). I started the operation above the earphone area.
Applying pressure on the sticker area was stresfull because the LCD immediately reacted to the pressure (hence a risk to break it or damage it). Best was to put two fingers on the sticker area to help the LCM module to pop out but with (almost) no pressure.
I had a doubt and now that I managed to remove the housing it's gone. The antennas (those white stuff you see in both top corners and at the bottom) are glued to the housing.
I prefer to spend a few more bucks to take a housing which has those antennas already in.
BR.
i had a similar frustrating experience to yours in trying to snap the back off the chassis on my hd2 which had a fingerprint on the *inside* of the camera cover glass which i needed to open it to get at.
it sure looks easy in that HTC disassembly video on youtube but the tech there is using a sort of plastic hooked tool for the job, which i didn't have, so i used my thumbnail instead in the same place (the upper left corner, looking at the phone from the front) and it took me a good 20 minutes of applying what seemed like unreasonable pressure to my touchscreen and nearly tearing my nail off to get it to pop out.
those snap-tabs the electronics manufacturers use to hold cases together -- even when they also have screws to do the job -- are one of my all-time pet hates. i usually end up breaking them off.
I will be doing the same thing soon. So the housing you removed has antennas glued to it ?. Thanks for that, I will try get new housing with antenna together if possible.
I replaced my screen a while back and can confirm the main body of the hd2 is glued to the sides of the chassis.
It does come out but with a lot of force but pry the glue lose around the whole chassis first by sliding a thin card right ot the bottom of the case and slowlyu move and pry it upwards with 2 cards one on the top and other on the right after you losend the glue. the top has the wifi adapter n that so be careful bottom has usb so mite break.
honestly i would say don't bother replacing it and just get a gel case or something to hide the damage. there's a high chance of messing the digitizer up and would just cause you more trouble of taking the whole phone apart bit by bit and trust me the components are tiny so easily breakable especially the ribbon cables they decided to use. my honest opinion don't
fallenmonk said:
I will be doing the same thing soon. So the housing you removed has antennas glued to it ?. Thanks for that, I will try get new housing with antenna together if possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yep they are white thin bits glued to the top portion of the case. wifi on left and phone on right if i remember. its been quite a while though since i took my old hd2 apart
Now that I know how to do this I will be easier next time.
Yes antennas are glued in the housing so best is to buy a housing which has antennas already in.
Important note : the antenna which is at the bottom of the housing exists in two different versions : EU or US so check with the seller which one he sells.
BR.
Top left : Amphenol-BT&Wifi-090820
Top right : Amphenol-GPS-090820
Bottom : Amphenol-EU-090828
If T-Mobiles US you need Amphenol-US
sirec said:
I replaced my screen a while back and can confirm the main body of the hd2 is glued to the sides of the chassis.
It does come out but with a lot of force but pry the glue lose around the whole chassis first by sliding a thin card right ot the bottom of the case and slowlyu move and pry it upwards with 2 cards one on the top and other on the right after you losend the glue. the top has the wifi adapter n that so be careful bottom has usb so mite break.
honestly i would say don't bother replacing it and just get a gel case or something to hide the damage. there's a high chance of messing the digitizer up and would just cause you more trouble of taking the whole phone apart bit by bit and trust me the components are tiny so easily breakable especially the ribbon cables they decided to use. my honest opinion don't
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i don't believe it's glued. as far as i can see the the case is held together with screws and plastic interlocking tabs. the trick is to get the latter to unclip.
No glue indeed just notches locking the LCM module to the bezel
Ok case closed
I got my new housing and the replacement went fine. For those who could be interrested I bought it on ebay from the seller forceviewer_uk in China. Everything went perfect so I can recommend this guy.
Does anyone know how to take a G-Tab apart and repair a broken power connector? My son pulled it off of the table where it was charging and it landed squarely on the adapter where it was plugged into the GTab. Everything else works, but charging, of course, does not.
stalnakerz said:
Does anyone know how to take a G-Tab apart and repair a broken power connector? My son pulled it off of the table where it was charging and it landed squarely on the adapter where it was plugged into the GTab. Everything else works, but charging, of course, does not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Buy a dock, that's what I did
stalnakerz said:
Does anyone know how to take a G-Tab apart and repair a broken power connector? My son pulled it off of the table where it was charging and it landed squarely on the adapter where it was plugged into the GTab. Everything else works, but charging, of course, does not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Choice 1: Buy a dock.
Choice 2: Open it up and solder it back in.
Choice 3: Sell your son to a slave labor camp and use the money to buy a new tablet.
Stolen from another forum about performing a hardware reset:
Disassemble the tablet. Remove the four rubber stoppers on the bottom of the tablet (put them aside). Next, unscrew the screws under them (keep those too). Next we need to get the back half of the tablet off. Put the tablet face down on a piece of paper or another protective material. Gently work one corner of the tablet until the two halves are slightly separated, then use something thin like a business card to keep them slightly parted. You can then use something thin and strong, like a plastic gift card to zip around the edges and break the seal. Prying will only damage your plastics.
snowzach said:
Stolen from another forum about performing a hardware reset:
Disassemble the tablet. Remove the four rubber stoppers on the bottom of the tablet (put them aside). Next, unscrew the screws under them (keep those too). Next we need to get the back half of the tablet off. Put the tablet face down on a piece of paper or another protective material. Gently work one corner of the tablet until the two halves are slightly separated, then use something thin like a business card to keep them slightly parted. You can then use something thin and strong, like a plastic gift card to zip around the edges and break the seal. Prying will only damage your plastics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
pulling it apart is one thing, resoldering the connection is another. I've read that it's really tricky (and small) Mine started acting up, had to have the plug on a weird angle for the tablet ot start charging. I thought it was the chord, but it must be the hardware inside the tablet that caused it. I bought a dock, and a second charger...the dock works BEAUTIFULLY for charging, and for watching movies on the big screen via the HDMI port on the dock...
Viewsonic G connector input jack power jack
If you need to replace the jack, you can get it at Ebay.....just type in Viewsonic G jack or power jack and they have them there.
Hey Everyone.
While sitting on my living room floor, I dropped my Prime & Dock from about a foot high onto the carpet. Murphy's Law: Gravity will always exert a greater force on the weakest part of your device. The Prime landed on the charging connector. I thought for sure the wire itself would be kinked up and broken (My mind is racing: "can I get a new cable from somewhere in less than 18 hours?! Argh!") As it turns out, the cable was fine, but the port itself was broken.
The little plastic comb that separates the upper pins from the lower pins was broken and had fallen out. I figured I would have to send the dock into Asus to be repaired one way or another, so I thought I'd take a stab at a repair. I used my smallest two flathead screwdrivers (PC-repair sized) to gently bend the upper pins further up and the lower pins lower down. I describe how little of an adjustment I'm talking about here- it has to create just enough room for you to slip the comb piece back in, but not be so much that the charge wire won't flatten them back down when you first connect it.
To make the comb stick, I used the smallest imaginable amount of superglue at either end of the comb piece. It seems the plastic is a little thicker there and there aren't any pins (that might get coated with glue) at the very ends. I used small needle-nose pliers to insert the comb and held it tight for a few seconds. I then put the dock in position so that the comb was facing straight up, so that gravity (grrr) wouldn't pull the comb piece down out of perfect vertical alignment while the glue cured. I left it overnight just to be safe.
Next morning, I plugged in the power connector and all was well. I've probably plugged and unplugged it 20 times or so now, and it feels reasonably solid. Mind you, I have NO doubt that this fix is temporary. The second I trip on the power cord or forget to be gentle with the device that superglue is going to let go. At that point maybe I'll send the dock off for repair. I just couldn't part with it this early on, knowing Asus is dealing with about a zillion more important fish to fry right now.
So, If you happen to have the same problem- give some glue a shot. It worked for me!
Kudos! I can't ask you to recreate and photo lol
But if anyone else runs into this, please take some macros of the process to give people a good idea of just how much bending of the pins is needed.
Naturally. I thought of taking pictures the next morning after everything was working again.
If the comb breaks out again, I'll probably attempt one more repair before I send it to Asus. If and when that happens I'll post up some pics.
As far as the bending of pins, I just pressed gently and tried to insert the comb piece with pliers. If it seemed too difficult to do with glue on the broken piece, I just set it down and pried on the pins a bit more. I guess if you looked at them, you would have been hard-pressed to tell if they were any wider than normal. The telling fact was being able to slide the broken piece back into the pins fairly easily. Once I could do that, I actually applied the glue, inserted the piece, and let it set up.
Hi all,
Today I suddenly noticed a click sound when putting my keyboard on the side and I found out that the case on the side of the hinge would come apart with little force.
It is easily replicated when you push the hinge push the hinge to the bottom and while holding the back case.
The problem is shown on the video below,
http://youtu.be/XS9zTEvvbzk
now, is it normal ? it seems like there are no screws holding that part together so it seems like it is bound to happen!
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For the Fix
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Just curious, how long have you had the dock? And how often do you connect and disconnect the prime from the dock?
My guess (and it's just a guess) is that the chassis on the edge uses snaps to keep the plate seams together. If this is true then it could be that something caused the snaps to break.
From what you're showing in the video, it definitely does not seem normal to me. I'm really hesitant to reproduce the issue with my own dock, so hopefully someone else in the forums whose had experience opening up the keyboard will provide some insight. In the meantime, if I were you, I would avoid any actions that would forcefully pry apart the chassis edge like that; it could aggravate the problem.
like i said, I barely need to use any force at all, just a a very small push.
I also figure out that the position of the hinge makes a difference as well.
If the hinge is in the "closed" position (imagine tablet docked with screen closed), it will not snap open.
it's when the hinge is opened up, the problem appears.
oO_SwooP_Oo said:
My guess (and it's just a guess) is that the chassis on the edge uses snaps to keep the plate seams together. If this is true then it could be that something caused the snaps to break.
From what you're showing in the video, it definitely does not seem normal to me. I'm really hesitant to reproduce the issue with my own dock, so hopefully someone else in the forums whose had experience opening up the keyboard will provide some insight. In the meantime, if I were you, I would avoid any actions that would forcefully pry apart the chassis edge like that; it could aggravate the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Anyone ?
just a yes or no so I can try to return it !
babadudu said:
Anyone ?
just a yes or no so I can try to return it !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Two weeks ago I started having this same problem. The slightest pressure pops it right back together. I don't know that I'll bother to return it. I would assume there is a good chance they all do, and that it may have something to do with the way we insert it and remove it from the dock.
I just noticed this problem the other day. It does it about half way when opening or closing. Kinda like the pins of the hinge push it open just a little.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using XDA Premium HD app
looks like it's not just me then, i am baffled that they didn't design screws to keep it together......
I have the same issues. The dock is generally just not well made. the back panel is too flexible, it pops open at the edges, and Ive noticed the hinges have gotten looser, and have a dead spot now, where the tablet can flap back and forth, similar to most laptops.
Same problem here. Just went to the shop on saturday and they sent it to Asus. Don't know yet, what happens.
Bought the prime about 10 weeks ago, so they don't want to exchange it without sending in here in Germany. I just wish there'd be ASUS-stores like Apple stores, where this would have been handled more easily...
As someone who has taken their dock apart to see what makes it tick i know there are several hidden screws inside the dock part of the keyboard (under a black sticker, hard to see or find if your not looking) that help hold the hinge together. i found my screen protector was adding pressure on the dock and removed some of the material so everything fit better tho after doing what i did i dont really recommend it to others.
I too am rather unimpressed with the construction of the dock however im not going to worry too much about it, if it gets too flimsy for my liking ill just take it apart again and tighten things up again.
I had this once but i just pressed it toghether slightly and it never happened again.
Pileot could you make a small video or take pictures of the screws you did tighten to make it better?
This just happened to me last night and I'm very deeply saddened.
I take the tablet out of the dock about once every two days, Max. I've had the dock for 12 days now. C1OKA to start the S/N. Amethyst. Bought it from Amazon 3/2.
No screen protector, no added weight. I noticed it happened when I grabbed the dock with the tablet open by the Asus sticker on the keyboard, with my hands on both side of the touchpad.
Entire backend popped open, both hinges, and alongside the bacl under the tablet slide.
Im going to see if Amazon will take it back and exchange otherwise Asus will get my backend fixed.
Any ideas to those of you who have opened it that will keep it in place? i don't want to put tape on it. But i understand the weight of the tablet in the dock fully extended changes the center of gravity putting more pressure on the bottom of the dock and if it only has tabs that is the reason it is popping open.
No breaks cracks scratches damage of any kind.
I too have a clicking dock.
Got the same problem with mine. It's only a month old and it seems to be the way I hold it whilst docked. I tend to hold it one handed by the black sticker whilst opening it with my left hand. Gonna send it to asus for a repair as it seems the catch as snapped. ANOTHER desgin floor.
Is there not a screw underneath the rubber ?
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using xda premium
My docking station was also having this issue. THere's screws under the rubber feet of the dock. I had to tighten both screws near the hinge down and that resolved the hinge splitting. Who knows if it'll happen again, but it's a pretty simple fix.
Hi,
No issues with the dock whatsoever, however I did notice that at a 45degree angle the prime just closes by itself. Not sure if it was like that from the beginning but it seems like opening and closing does loosen the hinges hold a bit.
Anyone experienced this?
Hinge FIX
I meant to write this a few weeks ago.
So I have a C3 keyboard....My C1 from Amazon worked great for 13 days...then it "popped" at the hinge and i was like...oh ****...
In the pictures you can see where it pops and the hinge came apart.
What I found was the little old chinese lady who put these together on that specific day must have had a serious case of Arthritis....when i examined underneath the rubber feet, both screws on both sides were completely unscrewed. I got the right sized 6 star driver, popped the hinge back together (especially underneath the hinge-release area in the middle of the keyboard), and screwed them in but didn't overtighten. I checked to make sure the dock wouldn't pop out again by placing tablet in and holding it on both sides of the trackpad and it didn't pop open. Voila! Put a dollup of rubber cement on pads, stuck them back on, and let it dry. Happy again! I hope this works for you guys.
edit: screws are Phillips head, not 6 star. opened rest of dock with 6 star (not necessary for this fix); sorry for confusion. PS super glue works well too if no rubber cement
Your images are dead.
And they're back.
Perfect, thank's a lot. I had the same problem, and your solution worked 100% for me as well.