Hey guys,
I had a Galaxy Tab connector on hand and made it fit this thing using a dremel. (Yeah, I know a Sansa dock connector fits perfect...yada yada). I have a Sansa connector coming anyway. This is for initial testing.
Can someone take DETAILED pictures of the inside of their HDMI cables and their Docks as well as internals of their Gtablets by the dock connector? (My only camera are my Evos (4G +3D) and a Galaxy S). I have opened mine countless times, but a good picture helps a TON!
I can do some testing using a logic analyzer, scope, and DMM. However, that will not show me everything as many connections require commands sent in the right protocol to activate. Pictures and such would be of a great help.
If it works out, I can make up some board files and we can make our own docks and cables for whatever our needs are (also I have a friend who owns an online shop specializing in this stuff to get some commercially done).
POST YOUR PICTURES!!!!!
EDIT: 10/01/11
FOUND MORE PINS!
GROUND PINS (universal and non-isolated): 1, 8, 11, 14, 17, 24, 26
5V OUTPUT: 3, 4
3.3V OUTPUT: 5
Pin 23 looks like a mode controlling pin and might be somehow correlated to pin 21.
TO PUT THE TABLET INTO DOCK MODE : Ground Pin 23.
TO STOP/START Music: 10 Ohm Interrupt on Pin 23.
HDMI OUTPUT:
*requires small inductors on the active data signals
H3 - 6
H4 - 7
H2 - 9
H1 - 10
H5 - 12
H6 - 13
H7 - 15
H8 - 16
The Grounds 8, 11, 14, and 17 ARE THE SHIELD SIGNAL GROUNDS.
Serial EEPROM acts to tell the receiver that it is hooked up to HDMI. This is easily to simulate - YAY!
YES, WE HAVE DIRECT HDMI OUTPUT!
12V INPUT: Pin 27
Charging Ground: Pin 26
AUDIO OUTPUT:
POLE 1 + 2: Pin 25
POLE 3: 22
POLE 4: 23
This means that Audio Ground to be used is 24.
23 is the Mic or 4th Pole used for mic input and remote control!
The Lat thing is the USB Host out port. The SMSL chip seems to be acting like a hub so it is really precise work. Not bad for a couple of hours hacking Eh?
I HAVE A FRIEND OF MINE AT KINETIKA SYSTEMS BUYING MORE SANSA DOCK CONNECTORS AND POD-BREAKOUT BOARDS FOR OUR GTABLET. FOR NOW, YOU CAN MODIFY AN IPOD DOCK TO FIT AND USE THE POD-BREAKOUT FOR THAT.
Please thank me if you find this post useful.
I managed to spend an hour or so with it today.
Here is what I have thus far.
GROUND PINS (universal and non-isolated): 1, 8, 11, 14, 17, 24, 26
5V OUTPUT: 3, 4
3.3V OUTPUT: 5
Pin 23 looks like a mode controlling pin and might be somehow correlated to pin 21.
TO PUT THE TABLET INTO DOCK MODE : Ground Pin 23.
TO STOP/START Music: 10 Ohm Interrupt on Pin 23.
25 and 27 are some sort of data pins.
Pin 2 Might be Power In (don't know for sure).
I have an HDMI cable and Dock coming in a week or so for better testing/analyzation.
The stuff I figured out just now was using an Osc. Scope and a DMM. I am getting access to a better logic analyser that might be able to read and imitate HDMI to figure that out if it doesn't need a chip for interpretation.
There are a LOT of ground pins and couldn't find an audio out on the dock.
SEND ME PICS FOR BETTER AND FASTER PROGRESS!!!!!
Can anyone show me the top of the board or without the sticker?
Credit for pic to it2steve
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
What's the pics do you need? The 30pin connector or DOCK'S connector? Maybe i can do something for you. I have both of them 4 month ago.
Hdmi pins, audio pins, charging pins found!
Why are you trying to figure all this out? There is both a charging dock with ethernet and an HDMI cable available for purchase?
Just curious?
First off, this is information that we SHOULD KNOW.
Secondly, the DOCKS are no longer made and becoming very hard to get.
Knowing this information, people can make custom cables and adapters to suit their needs. There are many people who their 12V port on the side of their Gtab stopped working. at this point, they have no other option than to shell out $60 for a dock when they can fix it or make an adapter for less than $5 shipped.
The HDMI cable is only so long, knowing the information above you can take a $3 Deal extreme cable and chop off the ends then attach to a dock connector and a small pic controller for whatever the heck you want.
NONE OF THE CURRENT OPTIONS GIVE YOU THE LINE OUT AUDIO!!!!!
People into Hi-fi or who want to have the Gtab output the best audio possible now have a way to get that.
Also, WHY NOT FIND THIS OUT?
This is done as a service to the Gtablet community. The accessories that are out there are in short supply and DO NO DO EVERYTHING THAT THE GTABLET CAN DO FROM THE DOCK CONNECTOR.
Plus, given the extra space that we have inside of the GTABLET and extra space on the sides of the Gtablet, we can actually ADD HDMI OUTPUT to the side of the device as well as pretty much any of the docking features that we miss.
beeja75 said:
Why are you trying to figure all this out? There is both a charging dock with ethernet and an HDMI cable available for purchase?
Just curious?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok I am SOOOO interested in this but have little electrical experience, so if a cable can be made I am down with buying it.
I want to turn my Gtab into a car stereo, right now I am looking to convert hdmi to RCA fo audio and video output, so Get a dock, connect an HDMI to the back of the dock (or one of the new cables) ==> plug into an analog converter for RCA video and audio out ==> connect splitter to video and sound ==> connect video to external lcd, and sound to my amp.
I have two monitors for the kids in the back for movies, so i would hate to loose them
The current cable that dont require a dock is almost perfect except for power, I would want to charge the pad when connected, so a 12 volt in would be needed, then I would want(would be nice but I can get this eleswhere, 7805 voltage regulator off a 12 volt line.) to use the 5 volt output to power the HDMI to RCA converter which is 5 volts.
any chance you would be intereted in a custom cable?
Here is the converter I am looking at
http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Composite-S-Video-Converter-3RCA/dp/B0047PDBP0
Obviously it would not be ideal to convert digi to anlog but this the only way I know.
Yeah, this is why I am doing this.
If you can find an HDMI cable that has a built in serial identification chip (prob one meant for a different mobile device), then you could chop that off and use it connected to the pins above.
The 5V output can't be more than a few hundred Ma and that adapter might require more, but you can always just check it.
Personally, I would just buy a Beagle or Panda board to stick back there and a 10 inch capacitive display (not that expensive believe it or not). That way you can have it run multiple OS' and have a bunch of I/O.
ethernet
I didn't see the pinouts for the ethernet.
or did I miss something?
The Ethernet chip actually is not direct Ethernet, it is in fact a USB connection. The USB host and the Ethernet are actually sharing the same connection on the dock. The SMSL chip is almost acting as a mini hub.
I'm interested in my making some cables for my Gtab. You said that your friend was ordering some Sansa dock connectors. Where can those be ordered from? Is there a generic term for that type connector? I'm wondering if some of the electronic supply catalogs might have them.
question
Ok I have an old sanse dock/usb cable that fits perfectly in my gtablet... Soooooo What can do with that as this point... I would love to use it to make a Tranformer like dock with keyboard and addition usb or hdmi/audio out etc... From what i have read that is the idea, right?... Man if that would work that would bring new life to this Gtablet... I know nothing about pins and such... Is this something I will be able to do (follow direction posted) once it is figured out?
Thanks...
Childofthehorn said:
Hey guys,
I had a Galaxy Tab connector on hand and made it fit this thing using a dremel. (Yeah, I know a Sansa dock connector fits perfect...yada yada). I have a Sansa connector coming anyway. This is for initial testing.
Can someone take DETAILED pictures of the inside of their HDMI cables and their Docks as well as internals of their Gtablets by the dock connector? (My only camera are my Evos (4G +3D) and a Galaxy S). I have opened mine countless times, but a good picture helps a TON!
I can do some testing using a logic analyzer, scope, and DMM. However, that will not show me everything as many connections require commands sent in the right protocol to activate. Pictures and such would be of a great help.
If it works out, I can make up some board files and we can make our own docks and cables for whatever our needs are (also I have a friend who owns an online shop specializing in this stuff to get some commercially done).
POST YOUR PICTURES!!!!!
EDIT: 10/01/11
FOUND MORE PINS!
GROUND PINS (universal and non-isolated): 1, 8, 11, 14, 17, 24, 26
5V OUTPUT: 3, 4
3.3V OUTPUT: 5
Pin 23 looks like a mode controlling pin and might be somehow correlated to pin 21.
TO PUT THE TABLET INTO DOCK MODE : Ground Pin 23.
TO STOP/START Music: 10 Ohm Interrupt on Pin 23.
HDMI OUTPUT:
*requires small inductors on the active data signals
H3 - 6
H4 - 7
H2 - 9
H1 - 10
H5 - 12
H6 - 13
H7 - 15
H8 - 16
The Grounds 8, 11, 14, and 17 ARE THE SHIELD SIGNAL GROUNDS.
Serial EEPROM acts to tell the receiver that it is hooked up to HDMI. This is easily to simulate - YAY!
YES, WE HAVE DIRECT HDMI OUTPUT!
12V INPUT: Pin 27
Charging Ground: Pin 26
AUDIO OUTPUT:
POLE 1 + 2: Pin 25
POLE 3: 22
POLE 4: 23
This means that Audio Ground to be used is 24.
23 is the Mic or 4th Pole used for mic input and remote control!
The Lat thing is the USB Host out port. The SMSL chip seems to be acting like a hub so it is really precise work. Not bad for a couple of hours hacking Eh?
I HAVE A FRIEND OF MINE AT KINETIKA SYSTEMS BUYING MORE SANSA DOCK CONNECTORS AND POD-BREAKOUT BOARDS FOR OUR GTABLET. FOR NOW, YOU CAN MODIFY AN IPOD DOCK TO FIT AND USE THE POD-BREAKOUT FOR THAT.
Please thank me if you find this post useful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought two of the Sansa breakout connectors way back in the beginning of the g tab life from Kinetika and IT DID NOT FIT even though owners of an original cable report that it does fit. The Kinetkka Sansa connector in fact fits the ipod....i called and wrote to Mike at Kinetika and they did NOTHING to fix the problem. Beware!
xjarl said:
What's the pics do you need? The 30pin connector or DOCK'S connector? Maybe i can do something for you. I have both of them 4 month ago.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have a picture of the bottom of the PCB?
Related
I just made my own "car dock" cable based on the information over the "Fun with resistors" thread.
Basically I have a cable with a micro-usb connector that switch my phone to "car dock" mode, audio via usb/aux and charging.
CHECK THE 2ND POST FOR UPDATES, PICTURES AND A QUICK VIDEO.
WARNING:
This cable can physically damage/destroy your phone if made incorrectly.
If you don't have experience soldering electronics and small parts maybe you should not try this.
The usb cable will NOT work for sync/data - just charging.
I'm not responsible if you damage or destroy your phone/property and/or injury yourself or others.
Use this instructions at your own risk.
Parts that I used:
micro usb male connector (Digi-Key pn: 609-4051-ND)
619K ohm resistor (Digi-Key pn: RNF14FTD619KCT-ND)
6ft 3.5mm Stereo Plug/Plug M/M Cable (MonoPrice.com pid: 644)
1.5ft USB 2.0 A Male to Micro 5pin Male 28/28AWG Cable (MonoPrice.com pid: 5137)
I should have used a longer cable but that's what I had at home
This is the pin-out for the usb connector:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Preparations:
1) Cut one of the aux cable connectors and expose the 3 wires:
Yellow = common ground
White = right channel
Red = left channel
The left/right channel may be inverted, test on your phone before you make the cable.
2) Cut the micro usb connector from the usb cable and expose the 4 wires:
Red = +5vcc
Black = ground
Green = not used
White = not used
Soldering:
Start with the audio cable:
Solder left channel wire to pin 2
Solder right channel wire to pin 3
Do NOT solder the ground wire yet
Now with the usb cable:
Solder red wire wire to pin 1
Do NOT solder the ground (black wire) yet
With the resistor:
Solder 1 resistor leg to pin 4
Solder the other resistor leg + audio ground (yellow wire) + usb ground (black wire) to pin 5
Almost done...
Test all the connections for short-circuit with a digital multimeter
Triple check for the right cable on the right place, you don't want to put that +5vcc on the wrong pin, it will fry your phone!
Just finish it with some epoxy glue to make sure the cables won't break where you soldered them and some shrink tube for a polished finish.
You must go to Settings > Dock Settings > Audio output mode and enable it to have the audio-out working.
I will post pictures next week when I will make a new cable with longer usb and better finish.
The cable I have now works fine, it's just ugly...
I hope this info will be useful for someone
Thanks to TheBeano for the info about the resistors
* * U P D A T E * *
( a . k . a . v e r s i o n 2 . 0 )
Hello all!
Thank you to all the people who rated this thread and enjoyed the info
After building my first cable from two different cables and finishing it up with some epoxy putty I started searching for a better and easier way to build this cable.
While searching on some Chinese accessories website I've found an iPhone USB/aux cable that would make this build easier and nicer.
This is the USB/aux cable from DealExtreme.com (item #34654):
From eBay I got this micro-usb connector with a "housing" (link):
The resistor is the same from the original post:
With this parts in hand I started by taking the iPhone connector apart:
With the soldering iron I removed the connector and with an blade I removed the cable "terminator"(?) so I could expose more wire and use my own "terminator"(?):
Using a multimeter and my "pro-mod" I was able to verify the cables and plugs.
All cables matched so I started soldering:
After checking for short-circuits and fixing the mistake I always make (I invert left and right channels) it was time to squeeze everything inside that tiny housing:
It looks nice but now let's test it:
Pictures are worth 1,000 words but a video is priceless (don't mind the music):
Great write up!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using xda premium
Nice write up. Very useful. Thanks
Awesome, gunna order some of these parts.
Exactly What I Wanted
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for!! Once I see a picture/video of it in action, I'll get the parts. Question is, are you going to make your own car dock for it? Or are you going to purchase a generic dock? I'd like something that I can slide the phone into easily (and have the phone be horizontal). I am curious about the possibility of getting Digital Audio out instead of Analog. You seem to be the expert, do you think that's possible? Thanks!
I'm 95% certain digital audio out is not possible, except maybe for MHL/HDMI audio output via the MHL adapter.
There just aren't any provisions for it.
Thanks guys for the replies!
I got some PM about selling the cable. Right now I can't do it as I don't have enough time to make a good and durable cable.
The cable I have is kinda put together with epoxy putty and some shrink tubes.
Today I tested the cable and it works fine on my car.
I just found some iPod/iPhone cable that I think can make this build be easier and faster, basically you will change the apple connector for the micro-usb and add the resistor. I still waiting for the parts to arrive to test this new idea.
As Entropy512 said digital audio isn't possible with this setup but I will look in to it in the future to see if it's possible to use the mhl adaptor just for the audio.
Tomorrow I will post the pictures and a small video from it working with my current cable.
Thanks once again for the replies!
This is awesome thanks!! If you can create a few of these I would definitely be in for buying one. I am hoping to replace my itouch in the car with the phone. I already have a nice dock thus just need a cable.
LGSilva said:
Thanks guys for the replies!
I got some PM about selling the cable. Right now I can't do it as I don't have enough time to make a good and durable cable.
The cable I have is kinda put together with epoxy putty and some shrink tubes.
Today I tested the cable and it works fine on my car.
I just found some iPod/iPhone cable that I think can make this build be easier and faster, basically you will change the apple connector for the micro-usb and add the resistor. I still waiting for the parts to arrive to test this new idea.
As Entropy512 said digital audio isn't possible with this setup but I will look in to it in the future to see if it's possible to use the mhl adaptor just for the audio.
Tomorrow I will post the pictures and a small video from it working with my current cable.
Thanks once again for the replies!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So digital audio out is not possible (that's kinda what I figured). But what about getting a USB->Digital Audio Out? I realize the kernel would have to support a device like this. I'm very new to the Android scene (less than a week). But I'd think that it would be possible. I can't post links yet, but it was a $25 USB->SPDIF device on Amazon. The reason I'm asking is that I'd like a way to eliminate the "road noise" (alternator noise) from my music.
And how are you controlling your music in your car? Do you have a remote for the phone? Bluetooth? Or are you doing it the "old fashioned way". LoL! Thanks again for your efforts!
Jim
CNLiberal said:
So digital audio out is not possible (that's kinda what I figured). But what about getting a USB->Digital Audio Out? I realize the kernel would have to support a device like this. I'm very new to the Android scene (less than a week). But I'd think that it would be possible. I can't post links yet, but it was a $25 USB->SPDIF device on Amazon. The reason I'm asking is that I'd like a way to eliminate the "road noise" (alternator noise) from my music.
And how are you controlling your music in your car? Do you have a remote for the phone? Bluetooth? Or are you doing it the "old fashioned way". LoL! Thanks again for your efforts!
Jim
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can use MHL->HDMI adapter then put in a HDMI->Digital audio converter to get the digital audio out without any modification to software. MonoPrice.com has both but I believe the later requires some external AC power.
I have an official Samsung car dock for my Captivate. After reading OP's post, I decided to mod that car dock. I stripe out the part that connects to Captivate USB port and contains microUSB socket for power and 3.5mm audio jack (it already has the required resisitor inside). Now all I need is some 5-wire microUSB male to female extension cable. This kind of cable is hard to come by but do exist.
I did some reading in the 'fun with resistors' thread, and while this mod looks to work, I'm worried about the lack of sufficient charging amperage. It seems that in order to do "high current charging" you need to short pins 4 and 5 on the micro USB plug. Well, those are in use by the audio output. This seems to be a _major_ design flaw in MHL. So basically, you'd have to turn off anything you don't need (WiFi primarily, maybe Bluetooth if you don't want integrated hands-free with your car's head-unit) in order to get an actual charge. So maybe this cable with a Tasker function to turn off those services and activate your Car Home app.
Please take what I say with a grain of salt. Again, I'm very new to Android and I'm probably wrong.
CNLiberal said:
I did some reading in the 'fun with resistors' thread, and while this mod looks to work, I'm worried about the lack of sufficient charging amperage. It seems that in order to do "high current charging" you need to short pins 4 and 5 on the micro USB plug. Well, those are in use by the audio output. This seems to be a _major_ design flaw in MHL. So basically, you'd have to turn off anything you don't need (WiFi primarily, maybe Bluetooth if you don't want integrated hands-free with your car's head-unit) in order to get an actual charge. So maybe this cable with a Tasker function to turn off those services and activate your Car Home app.
Please take what I say with a grain of salt. Again, I'm very new to Android and I'm probably wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The device assumes that a proper high-current supply is present when a dock or MHL ID resistor is detected.
---------- Post added at 01:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:01 PM ----------
CNLiberal said:
So digital audio out is not possible (that's kinda what I figured). But what about getting a USB->Digital Audio Out? I realize the kernel would have to support a device like this. I'm very new to the Android scene (less than a week). But I'd think that it would be possible. I can't post links yet, but it was a $25 USB->SPDIF device on Amazon. The reason I'm asking is that I'd like a way to eliminate the "road noise" (alternator noise) from my music.
And how are you controlling your music in your car? Do you have a remote for the phone? Bluetooth? Or are you doing it the "old fashioned way". LoL! Thanks again for your efforts!
Jim
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In theory, I believe the device has USB Host/USB OTG support - but I know very little about enabling it. It MIGHT be possible to get USB sound cart to sort-of work - but getting the phone to route audio to the "new" interface would be extremely difficult.
I used to deal with Digikey decades ago .....
Are they selling "onesies" of parts now or do you have to buy multiples?
The items that I've listed you can buy just 1.
They have other items where the minimum order is 5000.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using xda premium
Mouser is usually a bit better about minimum order quantity though - I think digikey improved over the years in that regard.
Usually Mouser has their quantity price breaks earlier.
Entropy512 said:
Mouser is usually a bit better about minimum order quantity though - I think digikey improved over the years in that regard.
Usually Mouser has their quantity price breaks earlier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mouser sells singles.
Sent from my Samsung SGH-I897 using XDA Premium
Stevenrogers_420 said:
Mouser sells singles.
Sent from my Samsung SGH-I897 using XDA Premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know that - that's why I've always preferred them. But I think digikey has improved so that they're closer to Mouser for small quantity orders now.
Going to try this later this week, should be awesome if it works!
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App
bunnybash said:
Going to try this later this week, should be awesome if it works!
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can confirm this works.. just finished building it tonight and functions fine.
Have fun!
Here are some links to all things Webtop. Also a place for general discussion on getting the most out of the Lapdock and/or webtop environment. I will update this thread over the next 1-2 ds. Feel free to add links or tips.
Lapdock:
Purchase options:
Razr native: Lapdock 100 (10", $199) or 500(14") (coming soon)
Bionic Lapdock(11")($199) (same as Atrix lapdock but with ports in proper orientation.)
Atrix Lapdock(11"): Requires modifaction of ports (flipping ports and shave away some excess soft plastic.) No headphone port access.
-AT&T: OOS, All4Cellular($64 refurb) also OOS
Atrix Modification instructions:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1374743&page=2
Bionic thread but good pictures. You will need to shave away extra plastic on the edges and back of the cradle for the Razr to seat properly to avaoid disconnections.
The other option is to run extensions from the ports or to thread the ports behind the cradle.
Linux Mod (Eternity Project):
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1370176
"gentop": http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1403068
Props to kholk. Please support his efforts. Turns lapdock into a fully functioning linux laptop while maintaining access to phone/android features on lapdock.
Webtop on a TV options:
1. HD Dock ($99)
2. Travel adapter ($29): http://www.motorola.com/Consumers/U...rs-and-Adapters/Motorola-Travel-Adapter-US-EN
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
3. Webtop hack (webtop through HDMI without adapter.)
-Work in progress, already available for Bionic:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1372246
Please support work by Fenny. 400757 is also working on it. Still needs touchpad/keyboard functionality, so currently works only with a bluetooth mouse/keyboard.
Known lapdock issues/limitations:
Atrix lapdock:
No headphone jack access
Concerns of security of phone (either standing upright or connected to exposed ports)
Screen does not open past about 120 degrees (flaw in original design corrected in lapdock 100.)
No HDMI out
HDMI Webtop Mod:
No phone as track-pad or keyboard functionality yet
questions about lagging
Webtop environment
Slow performance on webtop native apps (Firefox) as compared to android native apps. Especially regarding choppy video through firefox.
No native RDP solution (can use android RDP apps on full screen.)
No way to install additional linux apps (addressed by Eternity Project's Linux mod.)
I should correct your statement about the ATRIX LapDock.
There are two ways to access the 3.5mm jack of the RAZR while docked into the ATRIX LapDock:
1. Drill two holes into the lapdock's dock, it should be large enough for a 3.5mm jack to get into it with its cable, then connect the 3.5mm jack to the RAZR and make it to sit in the dock
2. Drill two precise holes into the lapdock's dock, buy a 3.5mm female and a 3.5mm male connector, make the male connector to fit locked into the hole near the USB connector, make the female connector to fit locked on the side of the lapdock's dock. Solder the wires so that the male connector is connected to the female connector.
The first way isn't so clean, but the second way can get you into troubles as the work has to be done with maximum precision, otherwise, you could result with two useless holes on your lapdock's device dock.
As for the HDMI out on the ATRIX LapDock, we can do something for this thing to be possible. As I don't know how the Lapdock 100 HDMI OUT works, the only thing that comes to my mind right now is:
Required:
1. HDMI connector (the same on the phone, can't remember if it's female or male, but it should be female)
2. Some wires
3. A switch
You should drill another two damn holes into your Swiss Che.....emh, LapDock dock, and fit the HDMI connector into it.
Then, you should fit into the first hole the HDMI connector and into the second one the switch.
Now, you can solder the switch between the dock's HDMI connector and the external one you've put into the hole.
Use the switch to select which HDMI connector to use when docked: if you use HDMI1 you'll view all on the LapDock display, HDMI2 for TV/external HDMI display.
As you can see, the HDMI MOD is difficult to realize, but when you've got some experience and knowledge... you can do everything you want with your devices.
The EternityProject Team Manager,
-kholk
This is very good, but im unsure about it being in the development area.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Hah, I 100% agree, and did not mean to post it here. I wanted it to be in the general thread (or maybe it belongs in accessories), but after I accidentally put it here there was no way to move it using thread tools. It would be great if a moderator could move it.
I thought about copying and pasting into a new topic in the general thread, but it did not seem worth the effort.
kholk said:
I should correct your statement about the ATRIX LapDock.
There are two ways to access the 3.5mm jack of the RAZR while docked into the ATRIX LapDock:
1. Drill two holes into the lapdock's dock, it should be large enough for a 3.5mm jack to get into it with its cable, then connect the 3.5mm jack to the RAZR and make it to sit in the dock
2. Drill two precise holes into the lapdock's dock, buy a 3.5mm female and a 3.5mm male connector, make the male connector to fit locked into the hole near the USB connector, make the female connector to fit locked on the side of the lapdock's dock. Solder the wires so that the male connector is connected to the female connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was thinking about doing a headphone mod to the lapdock, and then realized the simplest work-around is to use a bluetooth headphone.
I’m new in this forum, but when I buy my Motorola Razr XT910 its comes with the motorola travel adapter for webtop .
I don’t understand why in other countries sales the phone without this adapter!
PD: Sorry for my bad English but I’m new in this to wrote in this language
I am considering getting the ATRIX web dock and ir remote. Will the remote work with the Razor? And does the razor have the same web dock media centre looking software the ATRIX has in web dock mode controlled by remote. Thanks
I searched but could not find anything on how to get terminal access on the Razr. I found these instructions for the Atrix.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=981658
But this does not seem to work for me.
Is that related to my post? Thanks
Sorry, it was late when i wrote that. I meant terminal access to the webtop. If you follow the link I posted it's referring to that.
So in relation to using a media centre looking software like the one on the atrix via the ir remote how would this be done.?
Also does anyone know anything about webtop2sd? I'm pretty new to all this and I was looking through the post but I haven't quite figured out its purpose? I mean apart from transferring the webtop to the sd card.
I know one thing I'd love to know is if there is some kind of repository or archive for the webtop image files. The only one I know of is the one included in the razor utility 1.4. I'm not even sure what version it is yet.
I can't find any other ones and I'm trying to see if downdrading my web top version (current 2.0.139) would fix the evbridge loop (causes excess CPU usage) that shows up when web top is loaded with the HDMI hack.
Could you do me a favour?
Run these two commands from your phone then paste me the result:
ls -l /etc/localtime /usr/local/bin/evbridge
cat /etc/osh*
I'm closely pinpointing the evbridge issue.
johnnyfives12 said:
I know one thing I'd love to know is if there is some kind of repository or archive for the webtop image files. The only one I know of is the one included in the razor utility 1.4. I'm not even sure what version it is yet.
I can't find any other ones and I'm trying to see if downdrading my web top version (current 2.0.139) would fix the evbridge loop (causes excess CPU usage) that shows up when web top is loaded with the HDMI hack.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HD Media Dock for the attrix for $30
Micro USB extension from usbfirewire for ~ $12
Already had a Mico HDMI Cable.
Remove Dock top plate, connect micro usb extension from dock to razr.
Connect Micro HDMI from RAZR to TV(one in dock is just a pass though)
$42. A lot cheaper than the HD Station ($99). Works Great.
Tested with USB Keyboard/Mouse/Card Reader/Thumb drive/ Logitech C910 Webcam. All work great on the RAZR.
400757 said:
Could you do me a favour?
Run these two commands from your phone then paste me the result:
ls -l /etc/localtime /usr/local/bin/evbridge
cat /etc/osh*
I'm closely pinpointing the evbridge issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What a coincidence. I had no idea that you replied to this thread. You got mail sorry i didn't see you online on chat earlier.
It appears that changing the timezone settings to manual, changing the timezone setting that was selected by the automatic settings to anything else and then rebooting fixes the evbridge loop issue. It must be kept on manual, but you can change the timezone back to what it was before (in my case EST GMT -5). It then continues to work without the evbridge issue.
This is tentative though I haven't hooked up a display to see if the trackpad comes up but I will be doing so very soon.
Edit: the trackpad does not come up but the evbridge issue does not show up when in webtop mode. I am using it right now . Performance is much better in webtop
Edit 10:22: Don't how or why but the trackpad is working now just plugged it in to do stuff and it came up with the track pad and it works. cpu usage is still normal.
djgavb said:
I am considering getting the ATRIX web dock and ir remote. Will the remote work with the Razor? And does the razor have the same web dock media centre looking software the ATRIX has in web dock mode controlled by remote. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know the ir remote works with the droid 4 hooked up to the multimedia dock.
So, i've seen a few pics of the dongle both assembled and disassembled... my question: if i disassemble my dongle and plug it into my dock can i use it? Physically it looks like it would fit, im just wondering if it will function... any ideas?
Edit:
To avoid confusion, i want to go [Prime] -> [Dock] -> [GPS]
The dock has both a male AND female connection.
Aparently it does not function as of yet, might be software? What pins are being used on the gps and what pins get passed through on the dock? If were lucky its just a software thing, or maybe it requires some pins to get passed to the dock connector.
We had the first person who opened up said it didn't work when he plugged it into the dock. The pin layout might be different or could be a software thing. If a software issues, developers here should be able to modify the file path or whatever that the GPS software in prime looks at. Instead of looking for dongle at the prime 40pin connector, maybe it could be rerouted to the dock 40pin connector. Or software change that'll detect either and link it up accordingly.
Plug it in to your keyboard dock you mean?
>i disassemble my dongle and plug it into my dock can i use it?
Mating connectors use the male-female concept. Tablet plugs into dock, so one is male, the other is female. Dongle plugs into tab, so it is opposite gender of tab, and same gender as dock. Ergo, dongle can't plug into dock, coz like-gendered connectors can't mate.
---------- Post added at 02:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:09 AM ----------
BTW, for those who want to mod toys at the chip level, might as well get well acquainted with your soldering iron. Little bitties in dongle means SMT fun. Contrary to popular belief, you can do SMT stuff w/o fancy tools. A vid primer, then:
e.mote said:
>i disassemble my dongle and plug it into my dock can i use it?
Mating connectors use the male-female concept. Tablet plugs into dock, so one is male, the other is female. Dongle plugs into tab, so it is opposite gender of tab, and same gender as dock. Ergo, dongle can't plug into dock, coz like-gendered connectors can't mate.
---------- Post added at 02:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:09 AM ----------
BTW, for those who want to mod toys at the chip level, might as well get well acquainted with your soldering iron. Little bitties in dongle means SMT fun. Contrary to popular belief, you can do SMT stuff w/o fancy tools. A vid primer, then:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But doesn't the dock also have another 40pin female connector on the side of it? This is how it gets charged with the prime power adapter that has 40pin male adapter on the end. Plus someone who opened it up already said they plugged it into the dock but it wouldn't work.
I know what you saying about like gender adapters not being able to mate but I believe the dock has a male adapter, to go into the prime for dock connection, and another female adapter on it so it can be charged at the same time.
demandarin is correct, the dock does in fact have both a male connection to connect to the prime and a female connection which the power adapter connects to.
Guess i would have to look into if the dock passes through all the pins or just a select few, however data at least should work, i connect my computer to my prime through the dock all the time to transfer files (instead of undocking the prime and connecting that way)
Edited the first post to include information thus far.
>But doesn't the dock also have another 40pin female connector on the side of it? This is how it gets charged with the prime power adapter that has 40pin male adapter on the end.
If the port is only used for charging, there'd be no data lines going to it. There's no reason to daisy-chain the charging connector to the docking connector. If you want to do that, then you'd have to figure out the pin-out. Even then, the odds of something going poof is still pretty good. This ventures into the territory of "if you have to ask, then the answer is no." It's not a good idea.
If you want working GPS and working dock at same time, ditch the dongle and go with active GPS antenna mod for the built-in GPS. It's simpler and more straightforward. If you're good, you may be able to have an inset port for the MCX connector and have nothing sticking out. Not sure if there's enough space to do that, though, so you may have a slight nub sticking out.
Also, the fact that you can't turn off the dongle is another issue with a Daisy chain solution
e.mote said:
>go with active GPS antenna mod for the built-in GPS. It's simpler and more straightforward.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you talking about the beer can mod with wire or did I miss a thread along the way.
>Are you talking about the beer can mod with wire or did I miss a thread along the way.
I'm talking about an aftermarket GPS antenna like these below. You'll need to mount a SMA or preferably a smaller MCX port, then jerry-rig some power for the "active" antenna (because GPS signal is weak, it needs an amp to compensate for signal loss, which needs power). Come to think of it, since cable length isn't excessive, you can try a passive ant and see what happens. The key is to get the antenna element outside of the metal case, and replacing the crappy internal PFA one. The connector is intended for quick-on/off use.
http://google.com/products?q=active+gps+antenna+mcx
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
For further info,
https://google.com/search?q=gps+antenna+mod
e.mote said:
>But doesn't the dock also have another 40pin female connector on the side of it? This is how it gets charged with the prime power adapter that has 40pin male adapter on the end.
If the port is only used for charging, there'd be no data lines going to it. There's no reason to daisy-chain the charging connector to the docking connector. If you want to do that, then you'd have to figure out the pin-out. Even then, the odds of something going poof is still pretty good. This ventures into the territory of "if you have to ask, then the answer is no." It's not a good idea.
If you want working GPS and working dock at same time, ditch the dongle and go with active GPS antenna mod for the built-in GPS. It's simpler and more straightforward. If you're good, you may be able to have an inset port for the MCX connector and have nothing sticking out. Not sure if there's enough space to do that, though, so you may have a slight nub sticking out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The port isn't just used for charging on the dock. I can plug the USB to the dock with my tablet attached and can transfer data fine.
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
kwazytazz said:
The port isn't just used for charging on the dock. I can plug the USB to the dock with my tablet attached and can transfer data fine.
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No but the 40 pin on the dock may well just be used for charging .. data may be connected to the SD/USB sub board
Deffo needs more investigation .. tempting indeed !
First:
Major Credit to SDX's FTEN for being first with his very original idea and micro Usb version of this hardware mod. If it weren't for him, I would not have dared to do this.
See his original thread: Self Powered USB Host on the HP Touchpad! and at RootzWiki
SDX Version of this thread
Rootzwiki Version of this thread
DISCLAIMER: I'm not a dev, nor do I play one on t.v. Use the information and links at your own risk. Read and understand what you're doing FIRST is the best bet. I take no credit for the original idea, just ran a bit farther out on the branch before it broke.
Afterwards be sure to check out:
[Tips and Tricks] OTG (USB Host Support) - Requires kernel support
and
My 2 Port 2 Amp OTG Charger & Mod post further down.
This is a difficult modification that requires you to completely disassemble Touchpad (correct tools a plus), cut and dremel out excess material from the back cover (risk of permanent damage) and display frame. You also need to have some soldering equipment plus skill with very small circuit boards/traces (if you want more than a full size power port) and loads of patience (this took several hours over 4-6 separate days).
Still interested? Have a look:
Parts:
- USB-A Female Connector from a USB Extension cable (and it's spare wire)
(or optional microUSB breakout as FTEN used in his original version)
- Small, thin, SPDT switch (single pole double throw) from a Dollar Store toy, ie "DollarTree"
- VPack PRT-08290 (5v Regulator) and it's PDF Reference file
- micro USB (M) connector from a cable or OTG Adapter (if you can't get the Enable switch landed you'll need this cut up into a plug with the ID pin shorted)
( or maybe AppleCable's Powered OTG Cable )
Tools:
- Spudger Tool set (or similar for cracking open the TP)
- Variable Speed Dremel with "Rotary File" bit
- Decent Soldering Iron (ie: Weller WES51) with small conical tip, and small electrical solder (LeadFree compatible recommended)
- Hobby knife Set (ie X-Acto with various blades and handles)
- Hot Glue Gun and sticks
Basic Disassembly/Reassembly: iFixit's HP Touchpad Battery Removal Guide
(You should be confident with the above. Be prepared to break a few of the 7 clips; superglue helps).
The Finished Product:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Part 0 - Parts, Planning, & Schematics:
My Original sketch of the wiring schematic for the mod
The 3.7v to 5vdc Step-Up Regulator board
My wife's Simon Toy supplied the OTG Enable Switch (she wasn't thrilled)
Here's another option for the switch from my local "DollarTree" store
Here's the Full Size USB-A Extension Cable before and after modifiying
Lesson Learned: Go ahead and strip the Potting Material off the USB-A (F) connector to expose the 4 solder points and remove the wires (or at least the 2 DATA lines). I think you will have better success if you "land" the Data wires and OTG Enable Switch wire to the TP's USB Controller Board first and then connect the leads to the USB-A Connector and Enable Switch since those solder points are more durable.
** Make sure that the cable wiring is "Copper Colored" not silver, etc. The copper wire will solder more easily without damage to the USB Controller Board later on **
Part 1 Pictures (MB Power Leads and Routing):
Part 1 pictures (Sim Slot Modification & Test Fitting):
When it's all mounted up (Later) the connector will stick out the back like this:
Part 1 Pictures (Regulator/Connector Placement and Wiring)
Soldering the Battery leads to the Regulator input (take time to get the length & routing correct)
* See Previous note about soldering Data and OTG Switch wire to USB Controller Board First *
Here the 5vdc to the USB connector is soldered to the Regulator Output & a DC Rtn from the regulator is soldered to the switch's "common".
Part 2 Pictures (Sim Slot/Display frame notching)
Part 3 Pictures (USB Controller Board info)
Part 3 Pictures (USB Controller Board info)
Note: You can skip this step if you just want a full size USB-A power port and don't care about it having working "data" communication and OTG Enable Switch (I screwed up the enable switch solder pad).
Please read the notes in the pictures for this section, they will help avoid my mistakes.
Part 4 Pictures (finished)
Updated: 12-3-12
Additional Reference Info
Here'a an OTG Cable reference schematic that I made to help people make their own OTG cables and OTG shorting plugs. It works as a good reference to figure out how a purchased cable is wired up (some are different).
And here's a picture of the micro-USB breakout board (4pins only) from Sparkfun.com that Ften used in his original mod mentioned at the top of the OP. If you prefer, you can squeeze this into the sim slot without dremeling the back cover to a "paper thinness" and hook up your data and pwr to it, but you will have to make or purchase a male microUSB to USB-A adapter (an OTG one would work since there isn't an ID pin hooked up). I avoided this option because I don't want someone hooking it up to a USB wall charger by accident and possibly killing the regulator
2 Port 2Amp USB OTG Charger & Mod
Here's an update...
My CrazyOnDigital 2 port charger doesn't have the data pins shorted (D+ and D-) like the stock HTC unit. This causes any "Android" phone to charge at the lower 500ma Max "Charging USB" rate vs "AC Charging" (explains my slow charging when travelling), but a bonus is that it allows me to pass data b/w the 2 ports like a simple hub.
- If the D+ and D- pins are shorted when an OTG USB cable is plugged in, the phone/device will go into "AC Charging" mode, but not allow OTG devices to work, but if the phone is still connected and the data pins opened back up, you retain "AC Charging" mode and have USB OTG functions.
(I'm thinking that a simple on/off switch installed across the data pins of my charger will give me a dual mode charger).
AC CHARGING / USB CHARGING (Data Pass Through) MOD 12-1-12
- I got tired of having a 2 port 2 Amp charger that only allowed 500ma "USB Charging" with Android & OTG. See pix:
Since breaking my power button and not knowing where to find a replacement part, I am very interested in what you are doing here.
I was considering finding a way to install an SDHC card in the same spot you've done your USB port. Do you imagine that there would be any additional complications?
I'd also like to add a power switch via the battery.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using xda premium
-SGA- said:
Since breaking my power button and not knowing where to find a replacement part, I am very interested in what you are doing here.
I was considering finding a way to install an SDHC card in the same spot you've done your USB port. Do you imagine that there would be any additional complications?
I'd also like to add a power switch via the battery.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In case you not aware there is an app called Button Saviour that can mimic all your hardware buttons including power.
Edit which I have just realised is of no help whatsoever if your Tablet is off . Best of luck.
-SGA- said:
Since breaking my power button and not knowing where to find a replacement part, I am very interested in what you are doing here.
I was considering finding a way to install an SDHC card in the same spot you've done your USB port. Do you imagine that there would be any additional complications?
I'd also like to add a power switch via the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My suggestion for the power switch would be to get another TP off Ebay to rob for the switch (probably the only way I will get another USB board to finish my OTG mod 100%). I saw the guts of a 16gb (no screen assy) go for $41 the other day.
As for an SDHC card, don't know. You'd probably have to connect it the same way as the OTG connector (pwr & Data). You'd still need the switch or OTG plug to get the TP to check the bus, the 5v step up to pwr it, some sort of micro-Sd "socket (so there's room for the switch) and an app like "StickMount" to mount it for use. Ultimately, it'd still be OTG but without the option to connect anything else. I'd recommend the OTG port instead.
Edit: I updated Part 4 pictures with a fillet around the port and added a link to the OTG Tips & Tricks Thread (Evo3D)
i saw the orig post you referred to in your OP..
altho i like it very much and admire your work, i will never
be qualified to attempt it..
i just wonder why the cable still has to run outside from your new usb port to the micro usb port.
is it stupid to ask why it could not permanently connect from the inside and use a switch for charging / data transfer ?
again, i will never be able to do this so you could ignore this post..
also, from your evo 3d thread, i see that someone uses a 4 port 12000mah
battery charger for data... is this correct?..
i use a solar powered 4 port hub but would like to see a battery charger modded to charger / data transfer w/ a switch..
the solar hub of mine doesnt last so long
thanx foryour reply..
amkaos said:
i just wonder why the cable still has to run outside from your new usb port to the micro usb port.
is it stupid to ask why it could not permanently connect from the inside and use a switch for charging / data transfer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Look closer at the USB Board post pictures. If the OTG switch wire is connected to the board internally, then no external setup is needed. I damaged the board just enough that I couldn't finish it until I can locate another board.
Others may not be willing to attempt the board soldering and choose only a full size power port (or microUSB) that needs the external cable that provides power back to the otg device plugged into the original port.
Sent from my "Up all night, Sleep all day" EVO3D!
mpgrimm2 said:
Look closer at the USB Board post pictures. If the OTG switch wire is connected to the board internally, then no external setup is needed. I damaged the board just enough that I couldn't finish it until I can locate another board.
Others may not be willing to attempt the board soldering and choose only a full size power port that needs the external cable that provides power back to the otg device plugged into the original port.
Sent from my "Up all night, Sleep all day" EVO3D!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanx for the explanation.. i get it now..that makes so much sense
do you know what i was speaking of relating to the mod to a battery charger to switch between charge / otg ?
if possible to do , i could attempt that mod
amkaos said:
also, from your evo 3d thread, i see that someone uses a 4 port 12000mah
battery charger for data... is this correct?..
i use a solar powered 4 port hub but would like to see a battery charger modded to charger / data transfer w/ a switch..
the solar hub of mine doesnt last so long
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure what u mean by this. Post some links or quote the post and I will see if I can figure it out.
Sent from my "Up all night, sleep all day" HP CM9 Touchpad
shoot... sorry i thought i did link...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1916638
to me , this is interesting because the OP shows a modded OTG cable to connect the mini port on his solar hub to the micro port of his evo3d..
this eliminates one cable:: from hub mini port to OTG usb..
he does say how it works but i dont know if the mod would be exactly the same for our HPTP..
i have that same self powered hub and it works fine.. just not much run time.. maybe 700mah.. iirc
secondly post #2 in that thread speaks of his 12000mah charger. it seems to me like he modded it to do OTG..
this would be good because of how much run time it would have..
could be great if he put on the charger a switch for charge / data transfer if it would need a switch to use like that..
anyway your current mod is soo ambitious but i saw you modded a wall charger ..
thanx again
OK I see what he did with the charger. It uses an adapter (host) cable to go from the main hub port to the PC (mini-USB to full size USB-A).
It looks like he spliced the micro-USB OTG cable (pin 4&5 shorted) to a mini-USB cable, and made a custom OTG Host cable. He mentions he disconnected/broke the +5v wire to prevent it charging the phone due to the small battery in it. I wouldn't do that myself, but I'd also ideally want a 3000-4000mah Solar Hub to modify for OTG & keeping the phone/tablet charged.
Have a look at my OTG cable schematics in reference post 9 above, particularly cable 1.
Sent from my "Up all night, sleep all day" HP CM9 Touchpad
mpgrimm2 said:
OK I see what he did with the charger. It uses an adapter (host) cable to go from the main hub port to the PC (mini-USB to full size USB-A).
It looks like he spliced the micro-USB OTG cable (pin 4&5 shorted) to a mini-USB cable, and made a custom OTG Host cable. He mentions he disconnected/broke the +5v wire to prevent it charging the phone due to the small battery in it. I wouldn't do that myself, but I'd also ideally want a 3000-4000mah Solar Hub to modify for OTG & keeping the phone/tablet charged.
Have a look at my OTG cable schematics in reference post 9 above, particularly cable 1.
Sent from my "Up all night, sleep all day" HP CM9 Touchpad
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hi
so his phone supports data / charging at the same time?
but to mod an OTG cable for hptp and the mini usb port Hub, we just need to replace the usb end?
and leave pins 4 and 5 as they are?
How else would you make it instead..
I looked everywhere for a better self powered hub whether replaceable battery or not and would have liked to find something better.
thanx.. maybe I can try to make one
Album
http://imgur.com/gallery/NIeGc
See it in action!
https://youtu.be/HTemLWr4lqI
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Lets use a MacBook Pro early 2008 for our little Samsung DeX laptop project.
Looks roomy inside. Lets make more!
Lots of space to play around with.
Now for the waiting period of this project. We need to find an LCD controller board for this particular monitor. ebay to the rescue!
LCD controller board and backlight inverter arrived. DHL Express used a private jet I think.
Now for the fun part, we need to make this keyboard and trackpad work via USB. Lets bring out our soldering iron.
The 4 wire USB cable will need to connect, Ground, 5V0, R2 and DP. Success, we now have a working keyboard with a USB connector.
Next up. Fitting some batteries. These batteries is of type lithium polymer and was from an old laptop. However they where already showing signs of decay. Better now use them in a closed enclosure...
So I purchased two Power banks of the same type, and crossed my fingers the production date of the batteries matched. And lo and behold, they did! Slap those bad boys in parallel. 20000mAh, and 74Wh, plenty for around 4-5 hours of screen time.
Time for the lcd controller board, screen buttons and inverter to be fitted. Looks OK, but final reversion is better.
Maybe they will fit this way. Nope lets try again. The black box is the C-FORCE CF003 by the way.
Now we are getting somewhere, this looks OK. Note that I had to desolder the DVI, VGA, DC power, Audio in and Audio out plug from the lcd controller board for the height to fit.
2x XL6009 Step-up Power Module DC-DC Converter fitted, one for 12v and the other for 5v for fans and charging the phone while plugged in. Also added the 1A 5V Micro USB TP4056 Lithium Battery Power Charger Board Module TE420 for charging the batteries. And what will become the external USB plug. The 12v DC-DC gets hot as f***, so we need to find a way to cool it. I am happy I used very thick wire, as the inverter needs 4amp.
To my luck the original MacBook fan fits perfectly to cool down the DC-DC converter. Its the gray one in the bottom right.
Lets put it all together and see if it fits. I reused the original power plug for turning on and off the screen from the power button on the MacBook keyboard.
Isn't it lovely? I also found a magnetic micro usb charger cable for the charge wire. Can hardly tell it apart from a real MacBook Pro.
Next project. I need to see if I can fit this USB to Ethernet from StarTech. Should be possible.
Album
http://imgur.com/gallery/NIeGc
See it in action!
https://youtu.be/HTemLWr4lqI
If anyone knows how to get the trackpad working in Android without root, let me know.
Apparently Apple doesn't follow proper HID standards. I'm hoping it will work in Android O
To say I'm jealous is an understatement, great work! I'm all out of thanks for the day but it would be great to see someone produce and sell these!
Skidoo03 said:
To say I'm jealous is an understatement, great work! I'm all out of thanks for the day but it would be great to see someone produce and sell these!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks.
There is the following already (Don't know if readily available):
Mirabook, https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/the-mirabook-turn-your-smartphone-into-a-laptop-mobile-android
Superbook, https://www.kickstarter.com/project...our-smartphone-into-a-laptop-f?ref=nav_search
But probably doesn't work with DeX.
kreal said:
Thanks.
There is the following already (Don't know if readily available):
Mirabook, https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/the-mirabook-turn-your-smartphone-into-a-laptop-mobile-android
Superbook, https://www.kickstarter.com/project...our-smartphone-into-a-laptop-f?ref=nav_search
But probably doesn't work with DeX.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What resolution is your screen?
very nice, working on something simular. mind telling me what charge controller you're using?
It is the best personal project I've seen here in this forum.
I am inspired by this work of awesomeness amazing job man! This is the cool DIY stuff I love seeing and the best part to me is it's a MacBook pro shell HAHAHA!! Classy!
kelvingamer said:
What resolution is your screen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the specs it says, 1440 by 900 native resolution. But can easily run 1920x1080 with the new LCD driver board. No ill effects at all.
Armin1997 said:
very nice, working on something simular. mind telling me what charge controller you're using?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121521256825
However I de-soldered the DVI and VGA port and a few other things to make it fit.
Nice work!
You could probably shave off some more by using a smaller adapter, say, the 30$ MELOPOW M002 - which is considerably smaller than the C-Force one you're using.
I'm also planning something similar, but I'd use a dedicated QC2.0 compatible charging controller that supports pass-through charging (which I haven't been able to find so far), Type-C and is relatively cheap (say, a not too branded chinese power bank from AliExpress).
Awesome!
Hey man,
If you switched to an eDP board and screen, you'd get over 30 hours of battery life, no joke. That video board you have is from 2005, which is why it's so power hungry. I have the same board and an eDP board in mine. I have a 56Whr battery in mine and eDP and it lasts so long that I've never drained it, I always tend to plug it in before it's even at 25% life.
kreal said:
Album
http://imgur.com/gallery/NIeGc
See it in action!
https://youtu.be/HTemLWr4lqI
Lets use a MacBook Pro early 2008 for our little Samsung DeX laptop project.
Looks roomy inside. Lets make more!
Lots of to play around with.
Now for the waiting period of this project. We need to find an LCD controller board for this particular monitor. ebay to the rescue!
LCD controller board and backlight inverter arrived. DHL Express used a private jet I think.
Now for the fun part, we need to make this and trackpad work via USB. Lets bring out our soldering iron.
The 4 wire USB cable will need to connect, Ground, 5V0, R2 and DP. Success, we now have a working with a USB connector.
Next up. Fitting some batteries. These batteries is of type lithium polymer and was from an old laptop. However they where already showing signs of decay. Better now use them in a closed enclosure...
So I purchased two Power banks of the same type, and crossed my fingers the production date of the batteries matched. And lo and behold, they did! Slap those bad boys in parallel. 20000mAh, and 74Wh, plenty for around 4-5 hours of screen time.
Time for the lcd controller board, screen buttons and inverter to be fitted. Looks OK, but final reversion is better.
Maybe they will fit this way. Nope lets try again. The black box is the C- CF003 by the way.
Now we are getting somewhere, this looks OK. Note that I had to desolder the DVI, VGA, DC power, Audio in and Audio out plug from the lcd controller board for the height to fit.
2x XL6009 Step-up Power Module DC-DC Converter fitted, one for 12v and the other for 5v for fans and charging the phone while plugged in. Also added the 1A 5V Micro USB TP4056 Lithium Battery Power Charger Board Module TE420 for charging the batteries. And what will become the external USB plug. The 12v DC-DC gets hot as f***, so we need to find a way to cool it. I am happy I used very thick wire, as the inverter needs 4amp.
To my luck the original MacBook fan fits perfectly to cool down the DC-DC converter. Its the gray one in the bottom right.
Lets put it all together and see if it fits. I reused the original power plug for turning on and off the screen from the power button on the MacBook .
Isn't it lovely? I also found a magnetic micro usb charger cable for the charge wire. Can hardly tell it apart from a real MacBook Pro.
Next project. I need to see if I can fit this USB to Ethernet from StarTech. Should be possible.
Album
http://imgur.com/gallery/NIeGc
See it in action!
https://youtu.be/HTemLWr4lqI
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried something similar (OTG peripherals/WiFi display) a year or so ago, mixed up my power supplies for the display inverter and fried it. After burning a nice spot in my table I decided it wasn't really worth pursuing.
Great work though, very cool.
Where did you got that flat hdmi cable?
You can buy it on Amazon.
andjohn said:
Hey man,
If you switched to an eDP board and screen, you'd get over 30 hours of battery life, no joke. That video board you have is from 2005, which is why it's so power hungry. I have the same board and an eDP board in mine. I have a 56Whr battery in mine and eDP and it lasts so long that I've never drained it, I always tend to plug it in before it's even at 25% life.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool!
Care to name some parts, maybe even show off your build?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yh8m01oANfg
That's my prototype when I was making it a business.
Hi, that's an epic projet, when I saw the news of this project I was thinking "shoot, someone overshooted me" because I had the idea to do the same but for the Nintendo switch a month or so ago but didn't quite got the money to do that, and then I saw your amazing project and now I need your help (if you want to) to make the laptop keyboard a USB keyboard (I'm using an old Compaq 610 laptop) :fingers-crossed:
Silails said:
Hi, that's an epic projet, when I saw the news of this project I was thinking "shoot, someone overshooted me" because I had the idea to do the same but for the Nintendo switch a month or so ago but didn't quite got the money to do that, and then I saw your amazing project and now I need your help (if you want to) to make the laptop keyboard a USB keyboard (I'm using an old Compaq 610 laptop) :fingers-crossed:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most older laptops use onboard controllers for the touchpad and the keyboard (but at least for the keyboard). This is a problem especially if you want to convert it into a USB keyboard, because without the controller, the keyboard itself is nothing more but a 8x18 diode matrix with a 25-pin connector. And since most manufacturers wire their keyboards differently, if it isn't a well researched model, especially if it's a model where the controller is ON the motherboard and not separate, you'll be out of luck (unless you know how to write your own firmware for the USB HID device for a compatible microcontroller like a Teensy).
However there are tons of very small keyboards that more or less fit a generic laptop keyboard's size on AliExpress that are by default USB, and need only some minor changes to fit into your case.
There are also some laptops that have the keyboard and touchpad hooked up together with a controller, and the whole shebang connects to an internal USB header. With those laptops, the controller often has exposed pads or pins for the VCC, GND, RX and TX lanes that you can solder onto, essentially making a full USB keyboard.
fonix232 said:
Most older laptops use onboard controllers for the touchpad and the keyboard (but at least for the keyboard). This is a problem especially if you want to convert it into a USB keyboard, because without the controller, the keyboard itself is nothing more but a 8x18 diode matrix with a 25-pin connector. And since most manufacturers wire their keyboards differently, if it isn't a well researched model, especially if it's a model where the controller is ON the motherboard and not separate, you'll be out of luck (unless you know how to write your own firmware for the USB HID device for a compatible microcontroller like a Teensy).
However there are tons of very small keyboards that more or less fit a generic laptop keyboard's size on AliExpress that are by default USB, and need only some minor changes to fit into your case.
There are also some laptops that have the keyboard and touchpad hooked up together with a controller, and the whole shebang connects to an internal USB header. With those laptops, the controller often has exposed pads or pins for the VCC, GND, RX and TX lanes that you can solder onto, essentially making a full USB keyboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the answer, I figured that out by searching on Internet but I had hope for a solution :s (forums were old) but I think I shold find a workaround with a small keyboard, thanks for the tips ^^