Sorry for my english xD but i dont use translate, D: i have a dream for buy a xperia mini or mini pro, i have xperia x10 mini pro and i love her taken pictures (great camera in macro pictures, minimal noise levels D:
Please xD post your macro pictures
Check out this link, you can do a head to head comparison.
http://www.gsmarena.com/piccmp.php3?...&idPhone3=3619
D: yep, xD not have personal macro pictures? u.u
Here's a quick test.
Rojikaft said:
D: yep, xD not have personal macro pictures? u.u
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Note I took several shots to get the sharpest one...Shutter speed is pretty slow at 1/16. This was taken in macro portrait mode. No flash, good indoor ambient light fluorescent, Auto WB
Actually felt it was pretty good, but the time from click to capture is slow.
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Shot under fluorescent light
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/7708/dsc0150cd.jpg
Similar shot in better natural light, camera response time is decent.
http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/2472/dsc0163v.jpg
Issues with image:
1: Dark color speckles: If you look at the picture in actual size, you'll see the speckles. I'm not certain
what causes them, I'm guessing it's compression or NR or both. It's visible in on the Splenda packet brown letters. More visible on the blue tootsie roll, the wrapper is a solid color.
2: Wish it was easier to control shutter/ISO speeds. If you use sports mode, it pretty much doesn't allow the shutter speed to go below 1/125, which is not a bad thing, but the camera doesn't always choose a greater ISO to go along with it. The camera is able to do ISO 800, but it selects ISO 500 resulting in a dark photo. Even when I pump up the EV. Night portrait does the opposite, it pushes shutter speed down to 1/4 sec. This pretty much rules out any sort of people shots because any movement whatsoever will result in blur. Normal low light shots are done at 1/16 sec... Still too slow. Wish I could set it to at least 1/30.
3: Color dynamic range: Skin tones tend to turn out plastic due to the heavy NR. There's not gradual changing of color, just a solid look to the skin. This is most visible under low light situations.
Have to say the macro shots look better than the panorama shots (normal mode). The panoramas are significantly affected by the speckle effect. I haven't tried the dedicated panorama mode.
Mike
thank you mike, not buy this phone for me xD. Thank you for your time
is there any application can capture clear pictures in xperia mini pro?
Related
Hey there geeks! Today I wanna share with you the results of my long so-called research in the field of camera applications for the galaxy. I have tested SO MUCH options besides the built-in app and after several months of comparisons, I can say with confidence that I found the best of them. Of course, this is not a GCam port that is not supported on our device. However, this is so far the only application with the correct HDR, which I use on an every day basis. So, let's start the comparison.
There is always a standard camera on the left, and SnapCamera on the right. In both cases, HDR is turned on. There is no post processing.
Photo 1. Backlight sunlight.
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It seems that the standard camera wins here, however, pay attention to the leaves of the tree. A standard camera tries to snatch parts from an underexposed area and gives a touch of artificial and a plane picture. SnapCamera maintains balance and space for further processing.
Photo 2. Crops, focus point on the carpet.
Pay attention to the light behind the tulle. Comments aren't needed I guess.
Photo 3. Exposition of reflections, focus point on the phone keys.
A good example when a standard application could not save the dynamic range and overexposed the sources of reflected light. However, SnapCamera did just fine with this.
Photo 4. Random object.
In general, there are almost no differences, but SnapCamera produces more balanced colors with larger dynamic range (look at the illuminated area of the carpet).
Photo 5. Shot on the front camera.
Here is totally up to your taste. The standard application uses built-in algorithms for selfies — it gives photos warm tones, smoothes the skin and tries to compensate for the lack of details by highlighting some areas. If you need a quick photo for instagram - use the standard application. But personally, I like the result with SnapCamera — the photo is clearer, has much more information and is closer to life.
My HDR settings:
And guys (!) I didn't try to take these pictures as pieces of art, it's just a matter of demonstration.
Verdict
Until Samsung improves algorithms for budget cameras, SnapCamera is the best alternative on a dayly basis.
(But we do not give up hope that someone will still port gcam)
Sorry I'm new here so I can't insert side links to download
Unfortunately in my experience snapcamera is not so good in lower light conditions, the shots are grainy. Be nice to get 64bit ROMs so we can use gcam, which wins hands down on my past devices.
Hello,
New user of this phone, the camera viewfinder goes black in dark scenes check the screenshot and the shot taken. Shots come out okay but cannot compose. Can anyone check?
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I have tried both google camera and stock miui one, does the same thing in both. I still have some days left to exchange it, is there a fix or should I go the exchange route?
Thanks in advance.
Which rom are you using
couldn't this be just normal behaviour? it seem's like you're trying to make a picture in an almost completely dark room, just some low light LEDs.
live view doesn't get enough light to show you anything brighter. the final shot is taken with night mode and i bet it makes a long exposure time over 1 second+ and high ISO.
live view = multiple frames per second, it can't get as many light as the final shot with 1sec exposure.
though, I'm just guessing.
one more hint:
at the bottom of the live view screen, select "more" and then "night". it will show you live view with high ISO
in your case it's probably the same as "night sight" at the bottom left, just select it.
Zirila said:
one more hint:
at the bottom of the live view screen, select "more" and then "night". it will show you live view with high ISO
in your case it's probably the same as "night sight" at the bottom left, just select it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My note 3 pro showed proper exposure at this light but this can't, so I'm thinking there might be something wrong with the sensor.
Zirila said:
couldn't this be just normal behaviour? it seem's like you're trying to make a picture in an almost completely dark room, just some low light LEDs.
live view doesn't get enough light to show you anything brighter. the final shot is taken with night mode and i bet it makes a long exposure time over 1 second+ and high ISO.
live view = multiple frames per second, it can't get as many light as the final shot with 1sec exposure.
though, I'm just guessing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
muneeb rizwan said:
Which rom are you using
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Stock miui
@rayulove69 in the too dark picture you posted above you have NOT activated "night sight" or "night", just do that and see if it works.
you have actively selected "camera" and this is not supposed to give you the same brightness as "night sight" or "night" mode in live view.
Zirila said:
@rayulove69 in the too dark picture you posted above you have NOT activated "night sight" or "night", just do that and see if it works.
you have actively selected "camera" and this is not supposed to give you the same brightness as "night sight" or "night" mode in live view.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
doing so does the same thing and the darking is arbitrary ar also blurs the **** out of those dark parts
I find the Google camera app on the Pixel to be absolutely atrocious. The amount of sharpening and post processing that is being done is out of control, particularly on human faces... even in portrait mode. From what I can tell the only way around that are third party camera apps. What is a good one that provides manual controls and DNG shooting without the AI crap?
Update: ended up buying ProCam. As a long time slr user I find it completely intuitive but can understand how it can be intimidating for a first time user.
Open camera and Hedge Cam - These two are top quality open source camera apps. But only if you are willing to spend bit of time on understanding and experimenting with all the customization. They are completely manual. You need to turn on Camera API 2 to enable all the features.
Use the stock camera app for the usual point & shoots and use those serious apps for some serious captures and videos where you are willing to spend time in editing them in the computer or even in the phone.
If I'm taking a photo with people's faces in it, I do it by shooting in video mode, then selecting the best shot in Adobe Premiere. Thus, the resulting image has less contrast and color saturation than an image taken in photo mode.
Well, if I record a video that I want to archive like a video, so I make some adjustments there too. This is because even video taken with the stock camera app has too high contrast and color saturation. So they I apply the following effects to all the videos, the first effect is an effect called luma corrector, in which in the tab tonal range - highlights, I set the level contrast to -8 and then in the tab tonal range - Shadows I also set the level contrast to -8. This will increase the dynamic range, because I will extract some more image information from the dark shadows and from too much bright highlights.
And then they I apply a second effect to soften the intensity of the colors, which I do in an effect called lumetri color
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Saturation, where I also set the level saturation value to 95.
Please find quick links to:
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
[Shooting for night photography - indoor]
I am impressed by the result, considering the lighting situation at night at Rain Vortex. Details and colors are retained for most areas. Noise is detected in darker areas but not clearly visible.
In wide-angle, the quality around the edges are reduced (chromatic aberration), but overall, it’s still great result.
Camera mode: Night
Location : Jewel, Changi Airport
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normal zoomwide - angle
[Shooting for night photography - outdoor]
I think these photos speak for themselves. I am impressed. Detailed, good exposure and color reproduction.
Camera mode: Night
Location : Esplanade & Merlion Park, Singapore
normal zoom2x zoom
normal zoom
[Shooting in Pro mode]
I use Pro mode when I take photo in a very low light setting or for a specific type of photography, e.g., light painting. For info, Reno8 does not have RAW format option and it provides histogram.
Pro mode allows me to adjust several aspects to achieve particular result.
Histogram at top left Light painting : ISO 100, Exposure 3s
ISO 100, Exposure 0.5s[Shooting in Portrait mode]
What I love the most in this mode is the camera ability to blur the background nicely. It will bring more focus to the subject. The bokeh effect from the lights on the background is beautiful. Reno8 is truly ‘The Portrait Expert’.
[Video mode in 4K at 30fps - night]
I haven’t had a chance to take video during daytime as it was raining almost every day in Singapore. But I took this video from a light show in Jewel Changi Airport to show night video quality taken by the phone in 4K.
https://youtu.be/kuBV7NUim3A
CONCLUSION
OPPO is very caring to put features on what users might need. It shows in how detailed and personal the personalization in Reno8 5G. Depends on what’s important to you, for me, OPPO has gone beyond to provide the needs of security and privacy of user, and it’s something to think about. In terms of productivity, the phone has included features to help users working faster and efficiently.
For the price, you get a camera that allows you to create a professional-looking photographs. It’s great for beginner and hobbyists. Not to mention the stylish look and a smooth, no lags performance phone.
However, there is still room for improvement, such as Air Gesture feature, and the most important thing is the slot for SD Card. As a phone photographer working with photos and videos, who do most of the work using the phone, I am sure I need extra storage. I hope OPPO will include the SD Card slot for future model.
All in all, with Reno8 5G, you get more for the price you pay. Thank you OPPO!!
[end]
It's there any way to lessen the saturation of the picture without having to go into pro mode. Most of the colors in the photo are okay but the reds almost glow. I've never minded Samsung saturation but this is a bit much. Just not sure what settings that I could change to adjust this. Below I've attached S23U vs Pixel 7 pro. Pixel is more realistic.
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Post processing red channel contrast curve edit on a color calibrated monitor.
Yeah that's a pain.
Your display may be part of the problem. Set display to "natural" setting. The vivid setting will cause this. Regardless if it's cam or the display calibration is sort in the air.
Oh dang. I take this back. The pictures looked more vivid because I was viewing it in the sun. Coming back inside, the pictures look more how I like it.
Yeah try to avoid using in direct sunlight as it's hard on the display. In sunlight the vivid setting may help reduce washout. Don't know if it auto toggles that on for bright viewing conditions for that model or not. Sort of looks like it does...
Turning off scene optimization in camera settings will help some. You can also change the saturation after the fact with an image editor. Google photos has that built in. Also turn on raw+jpeg in pro mode and use pro mode for high value shots.
mmafighter077 said:
Oh dang. I take this back. The pictures looked more vivid because I was viewing it in the sun. Coming back inside, the pictures look more how I like it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Still after looking these pictures via PC screen i can say that first picture is too much saturated than second picture.
Dayuser said:
Still after looking these pictures via PC screen i can say that first picture is too much saturated than second picture.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're right. It's slightly more saturated than I would like but it's better than what I was seeing in the direct sunlight.
Saturation of most scenes is on the aggressive side, but the sky on a sunny day is ATROCIOUS. The blue is way way way too saturated and dark, and very difficult to correct in post.
The only way I have found to fix saturation via a permanent setting is in pro mode.Click the icon in the upper write of the screen, adjust saturation (-5 works well IMO), tweak other things (I brought up the shadows to +8, highlights down to -5, contrast down to -3). Then go to settings and under "Settings to remember" make sure that mode and filters are selected. You will have to always shoot in Pro mode for this to have effect, I think. Alas a saturation adjustment is not available in regular mode.
BTW I tried gcam with allegedly "natural processes xml" and it was the same fugly blue sky.