Question Lessen saturation of photos (Pixel vs S23 Ultra pictures) - Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra

It's there any way to lessen the saturation of the picture without having to go into pro mode. Most of the colors in the photo are okay but the reds almost glow. I've never minded Samsung saturation but this is a bit much. Just not sure what settings that I could change to adjust this. Below I've attached S23U vs Pixel 7 pro. Pixel is more realistic.
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Post processing red channel contrast curve edit on a color calibrated monitor.
Yeah that's a pain.
Your display may be part of the problem. Set display to "natural" setting. The vivid setting will cause this. Regardless if it's cam or the display calibration is sort in the air.

Oh dang. I take this back. The pictures looked more vivid because I was viewing it in the sun. Coming back inside, the pictures look more how I like it.

Yeah try to avoid using in direct sunlight as it's hard on the display. In sunlight the vivid setting may help reduce washout. Don't know if it auto toggles that on for bright viewing conditions for that model or not. Sort of looks like it does...

Turning off scene optimization in camera settings will help some. You can also change the saturation after the fact with an image editor. Google photos has that built in. Also turn on raw+jpeg in pro mode and use pro mode for high value shots.

mmafighter077 said:
Oh dang. I take this back. The pictures looked more vivid because I was viewing it in the sun. Coming back inside, the pictures look more how I like it.
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Still after looking these pictures via PC screen i can say that first picture is too much saturated than second picture.

Dayuser said:
Still after looking these pictures via PC screen i can say that first picture is too much saturated than second picture.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're right. It's slightly more saturated than I would like but it's better than what I was seeing in the direct sunlight.

Saturation of most scenes is on the aggressive side, but the sky on a sunny day is ATROCIOUS. The blue is way way way too saturated and dark, and very difficult to correct in post.
The only way I have found to fix saturation via a permanent setting is in pro mode.Click the icon in the upper write of the screen, adjust saturation (-5 works well IMO), tweak other things (I brought up the shadows to +8, highlights down to -5, contrast down to -3). Then go to settings and under "Settings to remember" make sure that mode and filters are selected. You will have to always shoot in Pro mode for this to have effect, I think. Alas a saturation adjustment is not available in regular mode.
BTW I tried gcam with allegedly "natural processes xml" and it was the same fugly blue sky.

Related

Sudden contrast increase

All of sudden the contrast on my screen increased to ridiculous amount. I'm getting color banding, even the sign on power on screen is not sharp but has some extra grayish squares around the white letters.
Everything was fine, and after one charging cycle the phone lit up to inform me charging was done and the contrast (and brightness) was all the way up with no way of changing it back.
The 'Auto adjust screen power' option doesn't do anything for me now. Was on stock 2.3.4 KG2 when this happened
I've tried restart, removing battery, factory reset, even reflash (back to 2.3.3 stock, and now I'm on 2.3.4 KG 3stock), nothing works.
Here is screenshot from phone
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And here is photo of the same screen (photo quality is horrible, but it should give you idea)
Is there any way how to fix this or do I need to RMA my phone
Where is photo?
Make sure that you are not placing it under some light source which is causing the Auto Brightness to take effect, and also can't you decrease brightness from settings?
link for photo:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/picture.php?albumid=4411&pictureid=14582
The colors and brightness are way off even on manual brightness settings. When I purchased the set and set minimum brightness it was almost unreadable on direct sunlight. Now even with lowest brightness the display is readable without any issues on direct sunlight.
Goto display and set the screen mode to Normal instead of Dynamic.
EarlZ said:
Goto display and set the screen mode to Normal instead of Dynamic.
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Don't have Normal there, only Standard, and it was already set on Standard.
Edit: It's not clearly visible on the photo, but the upper part (that's supposed to be full black) is covered with green dots on the display.
I've just experienced this last night, I was comparing the image I saw on my monitor to the SAMOLED and I noticed that the hair color was a very strong orange/red on my phone and its chestnut brown on the screen.. I checked the color mode and its standard.. I was playing around with the phone including rebooting it and it seemed to have gone away.
This was on XXKG6.
h4rr0d, this really looks like a hardware fault to me. Sorry to say, but I advice you to contact Samsung assistance.
Thanks for the replies guys, I've already RMA'd the cell, waiting for the service to respond now.
EDIT: Ok, so I've got the phone back today, the RMA report states they have 'exchanged an electric component', so no clue what it was. But I'm happy I've got my phone back fixed and they actually fixed it without any issues.

Please post Macro pics with your xperia mini :(

Sorry for my english xD but i dont use translate, D: i have a dream for buy a xperia mini or mini pro, i have xperia x10 mini pro and i love her taken pictures (great camera in macro pictures, minimal noise levels D:
Please xD post your macro pictures
Check out this link, you can do a head to head comparison.
http://www.gsmarena.com/piccmp.php3?...&idPhone3=3619
D: yep, xD not have personal macro pictures? u.u
Here's a quick test.
Rojikaft said:
D: yep, xD not have personal macro pictures? u.u
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Note I took several shots to get the sharpest one...Shutter speed is pretty slow at 1/16. This was taken in macro portrait mode. No flash, good indoor ambient light fluorescent, Auto WB
Actually felt it was pretty good, but the time from click to capture is slow.
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Shot under fluorescent light
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/7708/dsc0150cd.jpg
Similar shot in better natural light, camera response time is decent.
http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/2472/dsc0163v.jpg
Issues with image:
1: Dark color speckles: If you look at the picture in actual size, you'll see the speckles. I'm not certain
what causes them, I'm guessing it's compression or NR or both. It's visible in on the Splenda packet brown letters. More visible on the blue tootsie roll, the wrapper is a solid color.
2: Wish it was easier to control shutter/ISO speeds. If you use sports mode, it pretty much doesn't allow the shutter speed to go below 1/125, which is not a bad thing, but the camera doesn't always choose a greater ISO to go along with it. The camera is able to do ISO 800, but it selects ISO 500 resulting in a dark photo. Even when I pump up the EV. Night portrait does the opposite, it pushes shutter speed down to 1/4 sec. This pretty much rules out any sort of people shots because any movement whatsoever will result in blur. Normal low light shots are done at 1/16 sec... Still too slow. Wish I could set it to at least 1/30.
3: Color dynamic range: Skin tones tend to turn out plastic due to the heavy NR. There's not gradual changing of color, just a solid look to the skin. This is most visible under low light situations.
Have to say the macro shots look better than the panorama shots (normal mode). The panoramas are significantly affected by the speckle effect. I haven't tried the dedicated panorama mode.
Mike
thank you mike, not buy this phone for me xD. Thank you for your time
is there any application can capture clear pictures in xperia mini pro?

Four steps for taking portraits with blurred backgrounds

Black and white photos have a degree of detail and contrast that confers them a unique, moody intensity. However, a carefully-composed, artistic photo is easily ruined by background objects, which can distract the viewer. Good photographers sometimes manage to use creative camera angles to keep some of this "background noise" out of shot, but such techniques only get you so far.
For example, I originally intended for the photo below to center on the removal men at work, but they were drowned out by other objects in the foreground and background.
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I took the following photo at a low angle to try to give the teddy bear a "larger-than-life" look, but once again background objects stole the show and detracted from the desired effect.
When I place my photos side by side with some of the slick, glossy photos my friends share with me, I'm too ashamed to even contemplate posting them on social media services such as Instagram and Facebook.
However, more recently, I discovered a clever trick on the HUAWEI P10/P10 Plus that can be used to blur out background objects and make the subject more prominent. This technique produces absorbing, arty shots that are guaranteed to garner you more "likes" on social media. Moreover, no fancy camera angles are necessary; simply take your phone, find an interesting subject, and point and shoot.
When you take ordinary black and white photos, usually both the foreground and background are in focus, so there is no obvious subject or theme. However, by combining the black and white and wide aperture shooting modes on the HUAWEI P10/P10 Plus, you can blur out the background and place emphasis on a particular object or person.
If you look closely at the images below, you will observe that the photo on the left is overexposed and has a cluttered background. The photo on the right, on the other hand, was taken with the HUAWEI P10/P10 Plus and effectively combines the black and white and wide aperture shooting modes to reduce background interference and create a more dramatic contrast. This is particularly noticeable in the "Cloud Park" lettering, which has a much clearer outline.
After learning and applying this technique, and with a bit of practice, my black and white photos now look infinitely better, to the point that I can proudly post them on social media for my friends to see. To achieve similar results yourself, simply follow the four steps that are set out in the animated graphic below.
By combining these two shooting modes on the HUAWEI P10/P10 Plus, you can produce photos with that timeless black and white look, while enjoying all of the speed and convenience that modern technology can offer.

Question Camera Viewfinder Going Black In Dark Scene

Hello,
New user of this phone, the camera viewfinder goes black in dark scenes check the screenshot and the shot taken. Shots come out okay but cannot compose. Can anyone check?
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I have tried both google camera and stock miui one, does the same thing in both. I still have some days left to exchange it, is there a fix or should I go the exchange route?
Thanks in advance.
Which rom are you using
couldn't this be just normal behaviour? it seem's like you're trying to make a picture in an almost completely dark room, just some low light LEDs.
live view doesn't get enough light to show you anything brighter. the final shot is taken with night mode and i bet it makes a long exposure time over 1 second+ and high ISO.
live view = multiple frames per second, it can't get as many light as the final shot with 1sec exposure.
though, I'm just guessing.
one more hint:
at the bottom of the live view screen, select "more" and then "night". it will show you live view with high ISO
in your case it's probably the same as "night sight" at the bottom left, just select it.
Zirila said:
one more hint:
at the bottom of the live view screen, select "more" and then "night". it will show you live view with high ISO
in your case it's probably the same as "night sight" at the bottom left, just select it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My note 3 pro showed proper exposure at this light but this can't, so I'm thinking there might be something wrong with the sensor.
Zirila said:
couldn't this be just normal behaviour? it seem's like you're trying to make a picture in an almost completely dark room, just some low light LEDs.
live view doesn't get enough light to show you anything brighter. the final shot is taken with night mode and i bet it makes a long exposure time over 1 second+ and high ISO.
live view = multiple frames per second, it can't get as many light as the final shot with 1sec exposure.
though, I'm just guessing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
muneeb rizwan said:
Which rom are you using
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Stock miui
@rayulove69 in the too dark picture you posted above you have NOT activated "night sight" or "night", just do that and see if it works.
you have actively selected "camera" and this is not supposed to give you the same brightness as "night sight" or "night" mode in live view.
Zirila said:
@rayulove69 in the too dark picture you posted above you have NOT activated "night sight" or "night", just do that and see if it works.
you have actively selected "camera" and this is not supposed to give you the same brightness as "night sight" or "night" mode in live view.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
doing so does the same thing and the darking is arbitrary ar also blurs the **** out of those dark parts

Question Good third party camera app?

I find the Google camera app on the Pixel to be absolutely atrocious. The amount of sharpening and post processing that is being done is out of control, particularly on human faces... even in portrait mode. From what I can tell the only way around that are third party camera apps. What is a good one that provides manual controls and DNG shooting without the AI crap?
Update: ended up buying ProCam. As a long time slr user I find it completely intuitive but can understand how it can be intimidating for a first time user.
Open camera and Hedge Cam - These two are top quality open source camera apps. But only if you are willing to spend bit of time on understanding and experimenting with all the customization. They are completely manual. You need to turn on Camera API 2 to enable all the features.
Use the stock camera app for the usual point & shoots and use those serious apps for some serious captures and videos where you are willing to spend time in editing them in the computer or even in the phone.
If I'm taking a photo with people's faces in it, I do it by shooting in video mode, then selecting the best shot in Adobe Premiere. Thus, the resulting image has less contrast and color saturation than an image taken in photo mode.
Well, if I record a video that I want to archive like a video, so I make some adjustments there too. This is because even video taken with the stock camera app has too high contrast and color saturation. So they I apply the following effects to all the videos, the first effect is an effect called luma corrector, in which in the tab tonal range - highlights, I set the level contrast to -8 and then in the tab tonal range - Shadows I also set the level contrast to -8. This will increase the dynamic range, because I will extract some more image information from the dark shadows and from too much bright highlights.
And then they I apply a second effect to soften the intensity of the colors, which I do in an effect called lumetri color
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Saturation, where I also set the level saturation value to 95.

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