I tried to fix my GPS problem with the Hardware fix and accidently broke the cheap lead that you need slightly bend.
what can I do to fix my GPS?
You'll need to build some solder up on it, then file it flat to the right height so it makes good contact with the antenna, I broke mine as well on my 1st phone, but the up side is, using the solder buildup made for awesome sat reception, my 2nd phone i used hard plastic between the c shaped brass contact to keep it elevated so it wouldn't lose tension, but the solder still has it as the best, but in your scenario u have no their choice now, short of replacing the MB or maybe josh at mobile tech in Texas may be able to solder another contact on, but again that means sending it to him= down time with the phone plus added$$ as well, but those are your choices right now, Good Luck, if you don't know how to solder find someone who can with a sharp pointed iron otherwise you or them will destroy the board, and don't forget to use flux and prep the broken piece clean so the solder will adhere.
i broke the tab off too many months back and unfortunately i don't have great soldering skills or the correct soldering iron either i improvised and bought a piece of copper wiring at Home Depot, i bought a foot of it, but you only really need like 1mm of it.. once cut i filed it down enough so that it can make contact on both sides as well as put a piece of tape to make a pseudo-blockade so the piece of copper is secure when closed. It's not the first choice of repair, but if you are out of options this might work for you. The best accuracy I can get with this method is around 30-50feet average (outdoors). it can never get better than that, i am assuming because the signal isn't getting transferred optimally.
I wouldnt do this If I were you
candyman123 said:
i broke the tab off too many months back and unfortunately i don't have great soldering skills or the correct soldering iron either i improvised and bought a piece of copper wiring at Home Depot, i bought a foot of it, but you only really need like 1mm of it.. once cut i filed it down enough so that it can make contact on both sides as well as put a piece of tape to make a pseudo-blockade so the piece of copper is secure when closed. It's not the first choice of repair, but if you are out of options this might work for you. The best accuracy I can get with this method is around 30-50feet average (outdoors). it can never get better than that, i am assuming because the signal isn't getting transferred optimally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First of all candyman, not flaming you or disrespecting you, but I think that's a very BAD suggestion, because if that piece of copper ever becomes dislodged, say to dropping the phone and it drifts into the MB or anything that's carrying current thru it, it will short over to whatever each end touches, and that would be catastrophic for the Phone, and would truly be a Totally Hard-bricked situation, the phone would have to be rebuilt with new components that were affected by the shorting. Just saying that anytime you have a unsecured piece of metal moving around circuitry, its just a matter of time before it shorts out. Soldering is still his best option or send to Josh at Mobile tech.
dseldown said:
First of all candyman, not flaming you or disrespecting you, but I think that's a very BAD suggestion, because if that piece of copper ever becomes dislodged, say to dropping the phone and it drifts into the MB or anything that's carrying current thru it, it will short over to whatever each end touches, and that would be catastrophic for the Phone, and would truly be a Totally Hard-bricked situation, the phone would have to be rebuilt with new components that were affected by the shorting. Just saying that anytime you have a unsecured piece of metal moving around circuitry, its just a matter of time before it shorts out. Soldering is still his best option or send to Josh at Mobile tech.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
haha thank you for the serious concern and i have thought about the dangers myself and i know it's super ghetto fix but i do have a piece of tape covering the "side to side" movement of the copper piece so if it does somehow get dislodged it can't move anywhere. the "up and down" movement is being stopped by the sandwiching of the vibrant case/contacts.
although i do need to recheck/refile the copper piece down. i might consider a more safer/permanent fix
Hopefully your phone is under warranty.
Or you don't really use the GPS.
IDK Why???
kaintfm said:
Hopefully your phone is under warranty.
Or you don't really use the GPS.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OMG, what is the problem here, soldering is about as easy as it gets, Hell cooking a meal is way more involved than soldering, IDK why people bail on simple fixes and immediately risk going for a warranty when it may kick you in the balls, when they open it up and discover the tab broke, and send ya a 399$ bill in your next invoice!!
help me pls, read this
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=22197595&postcount=941
Related
Hi all, apologies if this has been asked before, i searched the archive and couldn't find anything...
I have an XDA, and the little sensor thing which detects if the sim flap is open is not working, meaning that it thinks the sim flap is permanently open, so I can't use the thing
Does anyone have a magic answer to save my bacon? Pleeeease?
Thanks!
Do you mean the rubber cover on the side of the xda? I think you will need to open up the xda and short the contacts with a wire or solder joint for a permanent repair. You will need a small flat head screwdriver and a T6 torx driver, it is not too difficult a task as long as you take your time and treat the components with care. If you wish to do a temorary repair you can push something into the cavity beneath the rubber, this will hold down the switch. With the xda face down and the antenna facing left, lift the rubber cover, you will now see on the right hand side of the slot a recess, at the bottom of the recess you should see a small plastic pin which is attached to the mechanical lever/sensor, this needs to be pushed down and held, if that is missing/broken you could still try pushing something in that will hold down the remainder of the pin/lever. You can test the repair by switching on the xda as without it the xda will not switch on. Good luck.
At this point I should point out that because it kept turning off because the contact was faulty I've hacked about at it with a little screwdriver and the little spring lever is a thing of the past. Oops... I should never be allowed near a toolkit.
I guess taking apart and shorting the contact is next..... THanks for the pointers!
Well, just wanted to say a big thanks to cruisin-thru, as I just took my XDA apart and whacked a blob of solder on it, and I'm back in the land of working phones!
Thanks!
FOR A START IM PRETTY SURE MY XDA MANUAL SAID AND I MAKE A ROUGH QUOTE - 'DO NOT PROD ANYTHING AT THE MICROSWITCH OR YOU RISK SERIOUSLY DAMAGING YOUR UNIT - YOUR WARRANTY WILL BE INVALID IF U DO' I'm Pretty Sure IT has this Plastered EVERYWHERE in the Manual On The Box Ditto, Ditto, Give me an Email And I'll Send u Out a T-Shirt With 'Kiss Me Slow I'm Stupid' On it, You Lucky It Worked CHAP!
Before we were so rudely interrupted in the original thread, we were discussing the G1 hardware keyboard replacements. Please folks, if you must flame each other do it via PMs to avoid locking legitimate threads.
I've been able to find some inexpensive after market replacements on eBay, but still am not sure how difficult it is to actually do that. All the sites I've been able to find on the subject only provide time-lapse dis-assembly instructions of the entire phone. If anyone has done the replacement themselves, I'd greatly appreciate pointers on how to keep my phone operational after I put it back together.
I replaced the white keyboard in my Dream with a black one. It was a scary operation as it takes a bit of force to dismantle. I accidently pulled my antenna off and disconnected a flylead. ment my phone had no signal at all. later when i got home (did it in work ) i took it apart again and fixed it.
Take your time and have patience, alot of it is plastic and clipped together so requires a bit of force.
May I ask what is wrong with the keys on the bronze one? I did a quick skim of the old post and gather that you can't see the keys in daylight but I don't get why?
I'm just genuinely interested, I have a black G1 so never had such a problem.
brummiesteven said:
May I ask what is wrong with the keys on the bronze one? I did a quick skim of the old post and gather that you can't see the keys in daylight but I don't get why?
I'm just genuinely interested, I have a black G1 so never had such a problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the combination of silver keys with light-silver backlight that make the lettering almost impossible to see in day light conditions. I'd take a picture if I had a camera with me today. Whoever came up with that color combination should be fired. Or at least made to stare at it every day for the next year. I have to tilt the keyboard at a weird angle just to distinguish the letters. From what I understand the white G1s suffer from the same problem.
The "Backlight Off" app definitely helps as it lets you toggle the backlight with a keyboard shortcut. I'm looking for a more hardware solution though.
I've been thinking about changing keyboards and housings too. But from what ppl are saying it seems to be pretty exhaustive. Do any of you guys have the service manual? I DL'ed it from somewhere and it goes through each step of disassembly and also shows assembly. I'm sure it would help out to give an idea of what you need. But like I said, even having read the service manual, it's still quite scary.
A full housing from my understanding is a bitc(....doing the KB I can see why. The LCD portions look ridiculously complex in comparison to other phones.
That said if you have the proper tools , good organization or memory , steady hands and patience really shouldnt be "that" tough to do the keyboard.
Heres the thing. Its really not that hard to unscrew things etc...but the piece you need to move in order to get proper access to the KB has 2 ribbons that are a PAIN IN THE ASS to take off and put back properly. Theres so little room for error.If youve never worked with ribbons before BE CAREFUL.
I will say G1 is pretty unique in how its put together , I swear they were determined to make it as complicated as possible
The really pain in the ass part is that the online manual/guide will merely tell you something like "remove part A" but no explanation how. Theres also 2 screws I swear it glossed over leading to frustration when I did the trackball/front keys.
Torx 5 and really good mini screw driver are mandatory.
Nice lil workstation is really helpful..(masking tape ,towel , table lamp or LED headlamp , vitamin/pill cases etc)
Im no mechanical engineer but Ive opened up damn near everything Ive ever owned at some point. Took me a solid 3 hours from start to finish. With major time spent on organizing the screws pieces and those damn ribbons.
I will say the black KB makes a HUGE difference. Black key on the front arent necessary but do look better and add much needed contrast.
KOF33 said:
I will say the black KB makes a HUGE difference. Black key on the front arent necessary but do look better and add much needed contrast.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pics, or it didn't happen
Thanks for the tips!
Chahk said:
Pics, or it didn't happen
Thanks for the tips!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As you can see I also replaced the trackball with a glowing white one.
lol at the trackball
doing a case swap is only bad the first time LMAO. I learned a lot, like for example the brass inserts that the screws go into...are not pre-installed. You must CUT Them out of the old housing and HAMMER them into the new oneBut in the end, it turned out very nice.
As far as just replacing the keyboard, it isnt too bad actually once you know what screws hold what down!
-Remove the 6 torx screws for the back housing
-GENTLY pry open the TOP of the casing with a plastic case tool, work your way down to the bottom of the housing. The bottom is a PITA to remove. I usually get it by rocking it gently back and forth
-remove the long and short coax leads from the motherboard side. swing them out of the way
-peel back the tape and GENTLY pull the bottom connector (mouthpiece module) from the motherboard.
-peel back more tape and lift the latch for the keyboard connector (the one on the side)
-Peel the camera module up SLOWLY (it is double side taped down) as well as the imei card. The cam cable is routed under it, lift it all as a unit. When you get to the motherboard, STOP
-Now, gently twist the whole camera and motherboard unit as a whole until it is free of the latch on the side. Gently lift the camera end exposing the 2 small ribbon connectors on the bottom.
-Peel back the tape and GENTLY lift the ribbon connectors out of the board. Place the motherboard/camera unit to the side for now.
-Remove all the black and silver screws for the metal piece. The lcd should stay in place as the mouthpiece plastics kinda hold it for you, but you should still support it to keep from hurting the connections.
-Viola, keyboard access. Remember when you put it back together be sure to re-tape all the connections, else when you drop your phone one of them may pop loose.
Keeping the motherboard and camera/imea plate all as one module saves you from a very difficult connection and will help you keep everything aligned when reassembling it.
I guess the spacebar has 2 functioning buttons, (left and right) ... well my right side just konked on me, and i was wondering if a replacement keyboard off ebay will fix this, or are they just the button "covers"?
the "buttons" are just plastic nubs that make contact on a board behind it. That board would be what you need. I dont know if there are any on eBay, but I have a spare one if you want to PM me for details.
I dropped my G1 about 6 months ago and was devastated. After entirely too much research I finally got the guts to purchase a replacement digitizer and managed to install it successfully. However, in the process I managed to rip the LCD ribbon cable. I then had to order a replacement LCD screen. I've also damaged one of the black ribbon cables pretty severely causing the touchscreen to become unresponsive sporadically. I've just placed an order for one of those ribbon cables and will hopefully have that up and running soon. I've also purchased an entire new housing unit to rebuild the phone to make it look as new.
Now when I first took this thing apart I was by NO MEANS an expert or have ever done something like this before. I'm just an avid enthusiast who wanted to save a little money, feel a sense of accomplishment and to learn a few things along the way. I technically paid nearly the same amount of money it would have cost me to send the unit to HTC for repair, however i've learned everything there is to know about my phone's hardware. I know which board does what and are extremely confident about fixing ANY hardware problem in the future.
If you have the time, patience, and truly want to become confident about the workings of your phone, then I highly recommend fixing it yourself. I've bought my parts for VERY cheap off of reputable ebay buyers. You can find EVERY single piece for your phone on Ebay. My LCD has 1 dead pixel, but I guess that's the risk you take when you buy really cheap parts.
Hope this helps.
UPDATE: So, the digitizer I bought developed a massive dead zone. I already contacted the amazon store I bought it from, they're replacing it for me. Why does this matter? Because now I get to update this post with pictures/video! So, yeah, I guess this guide should get a lot more helpful soon.
Update 2: Ok, so, I don't even know how to express my anger and frustration. This girl at work shoved my phone out of my hands and into the leg of a table, completely destroying my phone. So, yeah, sorry, I guess I won't be updating with pictures/video, because the amazon store isn't going to take the screen back now.
Yo, guys. If anyone noticed that I was gone, I'm flattered, since I don't post a lot. But yeah, I havent had my Optimus G in about a month, so I havent been on this forum. In that time, I went through my Second Motorola Atrix HD, a broken Galaxy S3, and even lived through Google Voice on my computer. It's an extremely long story, and kind of ridiculous, so I'll spare the details.
HOWEVER, I did finally just buy a replacement Digitizer and LCD screen, and successfully installed it, and I want to share tips for anyone doing it themselves.
When removing the back, after you've removed torx screws, start prying the back off from in between where the Sim card and MicroSD go. Where the back of the phone and the chassis of the phone are separate is much more obvious in that cavity, PLUS dents/dings from jamming a screwdriver in there wont be noticeable when you put the bay cover back on.
Don't force anything off. Make sure you've removed every screw, unclipped every clip, and removed ribbons from everything you're trying to take off.
Removing the battery is tricky. Be careful not to deform it too much, cause that's dangerous. But there are 2 strips of double sided tape running horizontally beneath the battery. Try to get something between the top one and the battery, then carefully pull the battery off the second strip with your hands. sticking too much stuff beneath it to pry it up is going to cause some trouble, so lifting it with your fingers might be better.
Remove the motherboard. detatch all the ribbons, antennae, everything, then pull up from the left, then slide left and out. This is how I got it out with the least resistance, but there is no science to it. If you've gotten this far, you can figure out how to pull it out without breaking it in half.
Components that need to be removed before LCD+Digitizer removal:
Motherboard
Battery
Camera
Just put them off to the side, you don't want them damaged during the next part.
WARNING! If you plan on saving your LCD screen, DO NOT DO THIS. The high heat will cook your screen and make it unusable. Only do this to remove a broken or unsavable Digitizer+LCD.
Alright, now pull out the heat gun. Alternatively, you can do what I did, and use a hair dryer. Not even kidding, this will work fine, and will be hilarious when you tell your friends about it.
On a high heat, start heating the screen. If you're using a heat gun, just do your thing, you know how it works. Hair dryer folks, keep the dryer very low to the phone, low enough to feel the dryer being pushed up by the air, holding it just high enough so it sort of hovers. (You'll know what I mean when you try it. If you don't, just keep it about half an inch off the phone.) Move the dryer along the edges of the screen, all the way around, thats where the glue is. It should heat up pretty fast.
Using your pry tool, start at the speaker grill and pry all the way around the phone. lifting just slightly upwards. If it's not extremely easy, apply more heat. Work all the way around, then pull the screen off. Be careful, it's likely you'll shatter the screen even more at this part if you're not careful. User Bozwell had an excellent suggestion (post 4), cover your screen in tape, then begin separating the screen to keep from getting glass everywhere. Great idea, Boz!
Alright, so from here on out, it's just reassembling your phone correctly. Piece o cake.
Firstly, put your new screen in. If it came with adhesive, it's up to you if you want to apply it now. I'd think you probably have to, but up to you.
If you're like me, and no adhesive was provided, hold off on doing anything for now. Just put the screen in the hole, and thread the ribbons through.
The motherboard lines up with some contacts on the chassis in a few places, but most importantly, there is a connection on the top left corner of the body, and the UNDERSIDE of the motherboard that needs to be made. I believe it's proximity sensor, but not sure. It's very difficult to tell if its attached, but look at what I'm describing, and try your best to mate them.
Don't forget ANY cables. Like, that's pretty obvious, but even when you're sure you didnt forget any, check again. The camera's ribbon is underneath the screen's, don't forget that one. I reassebled the whole thing, everything was working perfectly, except I no longer had any mobile connection. I couldn't imagine what I'd broken, since that's a whole different area, but going to phone status and checking my signal strength revealed I forgot to reconnect the white antennae (status showed my signal at -200,000 dbm). So, double check, because the more often you have to reopen your phone, the more flimsy it's going to get.
Alright, screw the plastic shielding back on, reconnect your battery, then flip the phone to be face up. Power it on, test the screen to make sure it's functional. If all is well, power off and glue the screen in. What I did, and I welcome anyone to tell me a better glue type or method, is plain ol Super glue along all the edges where the old glue was. Press it in, flip it over, and while it's drying, finish reassembling the phone (should just be make sure everything is screwed in inside, then put back glass back on.
If your screen wasn't functional, I guess try to get it replaced by whoever you bought it from, and leave your phone disassembled for when it gets to your house.
Alright, that's pretty much the thick and thin of it, it genuinely isn't that hard of a replacement. I've done a number of digitizer/lcd replacements, not bad at all. I hope this helped anyone stuck or wondering about anything. This video can be used as a rough example, but it goes really fast.
Good Luck!
replacement of lcd/digitzer
the removal was a nightmare for me. It was hilarious when the glass cracked it was exploding into a million little bitty pieces. I didnt use much heat, and there lied my problem. But yeah mine cracked in a way that it was completely unresponsive.
gruiz3 said:
the removal was a nightmare for me. It was hilarious when the glass cracked it was exploding into a million little bitty pieces. I didnt use much heat, and there lied my problem. But yeah mine cracked in a way that it was completely unresponsive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha that's crazy, it bothers me how fragile this phone seems to be.
To keep the glass shards from going everywhere try covering the screen in tape before you start.
bozwell said:
To keep the glass shards from going everywhere try covering the screen in tape before you start.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great idea, OP updated!
So, what would I do if the screen itself is ok and it's just the glass (and digitizer) that is broken?
MoFoQ said:
So, what would I do if the screen itself is ok and it's just the glass (and digitizer) that is broken?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You'll need a real heat gun, I think. You'll have to find a heat just hot enough to soften the glue, but not cook your lcd. Hair dryer method might work if you are extremely careful and very quick, but not sure exactly what the best method would be. Sorry
ripin150 said:
You'll need a real heat gun, I think. You'll have to find a heat just hot enough to soften the glue, but not cook your lcd. Hair dryer method might work if you are extremely careful and very quick, but not sure exactly what the best method would be. Sorry
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I figured...though I've been eye-ing using the screen+digitizer+front housing if and when they get back into stock.
(digitizer only is also out-of-stock)
I have had my Ultra Z since January. Zero problems, but this morning I removed my USB charger at work and a rubber gasket (see pic) fell out. Now the door does not close properly. I have the gasket and tried to work it back in but it would not go. There is a small tab and I cannot tell if it goes up (towards the screen) or down. I think I can get it back in with a toothpick or similar but want it to stay (and not lose it) and for it to re-seal the door properly. Not being able to close the USB door is a BIG deal to me.
I had been meaning to get a docking charger but bought some from China and they were crap. Guess I'll have to break down and get a real DK30.
The o-ring goes on the door.
Tab to back by the looks
Glue it back? What kind of glue?
Sent from my C6833 using XDA Free mobile app
mknewman said:
Glue it back? What kind of glue?
Sent from my C6833 using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try crazy glue very very small amount and please let it dry fully before putting the cap back into the phone!!!
Jammol said:
Try crazy glue very very small amount and please let it dry fully before putting the cap back into the phone!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Jammol. I'll try to figure this out. When I place it in the position it appears to belong in (now that I look closely I can see the small tab indention on the cap) but the part is so small I cannot even handle it with my big fat fingers, and don't really have a magnification station and stability setup to do it.
Big question is for the people who have had the cap break off, is there a source for the whole cap? Is it possible to install without taking the whole phone apart? Would it make sense to just throw it away and forget it was there?
mknewman said:
Thanks Jammol. I'll try to figure this out. When I place it in the position it appears to belong in (now that I look closely I can see the small tab indention on the cap) but the part is so small I cannot even handle it with my big fat fingers, and don't really have a magnification station and stability setup to do it.
Big question is for the people who have had the cap break off, is there a source for the whole cap? Is it possible to install without taking the whole phone apart? Would it make sense to just throw it away and forget it was there?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know what part of the world you are in but you can check these out. Couple folks have bought them:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Original-Son...zer_Ersatzteile_Werkzeuge&hash=item2339fdd95e
I say just replaced the entire cap with one of those and call it good. Mine is experiencing the same thing, tearing off little by little. I think that is where water might be getting into my phone, but I'll be replacing the phone soon anyways. Just not sure what to get yet.
I have not gotten mine wet yet other than rain in my pocket but the lines are much better with the cap on than removed, and I'd worry about the edge material getting pulled off the rest of the phone. I appreciate the ebay refrence and will try to find a US version. So is there a way to remove the old cap without breaking it off internally and having the tab rattling around inside?
I ordered a couple of the caps and a magnetic charger off thEbay US, but seller was in Spain so it will be a while. Crappy design trying to get rubber to adhere to plastic.
Does anyone know how to safely remove the old one? Just yank? slip something very thin in to try to get the tab to ride over the notch?
Thanks,
Marc
Super glue is what bonds o-rings to other materials because of the greasy slippery surface. Mine has also come loose. Contact glue, industrial glue or anything else wont bite on that thing because of its chemical resistance that the o-ring has.
try to get a hold of a bottle of Loctite 401 meanwhile if you can't wait for the parts
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOCTITE-401...Instant-Adhesive-Super-Glue-20g-/121407567300
to remove the old one just pull..just a bit harder ...its kind of some bend at the end of the flap that's holding the thing in place inside the device.
Apply with a pin or paper clip I take it?
SÜPERUSER said:
Super glue is what bonds o-rings to other materials because of the greasy slippery surface. Mine has also come loose. Contact glue, industrial glue or anything else wont bite on that thing because of its chemical resistance that the o-ring has.
try to get a hold of a bottle of Loctite 401 meanwhile if you can't wait for the parts
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOCTITE-401...Instant-Adhesive-Super-Glue-20g-/121407567300
to remove the old one just pull..just a bit harder ...its kind of some bend at the end of the flap that's holding the thing in place inside the device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
mknewman said:
Apply with a pin or paper clip I take it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
mmm something like that I dunno really.. I've yet have to figure this out myself lol. Use your imagination! :laugh:
At my moms work when I was young they had superglue bottles from loctite with really tiny metal pipes attached on them I wonder what loctite model that is. They could be used to do any precision work!
So it's possible to get the new one in properly once I get the old one out? From this picture it appears the new tab should slide in but I'm worried if you have to tug hard to get the old one out.
SÜPERUSER said:
to remove the old one just pull..just a bit harder ...its kind of some bend at the end of the flap that's holding the thing in place inside the device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
calm down...just pull on it. You won't break anything
edit: its no big deal to get the new one in
Great! Thanks, that's a relief. I'll let ya'll know how it goes when I get it. May buy a few extras too.
I got the replacement parts from thEbay tonight. Pulled on the old one and it came right out. Took 2-3 tries to get new one in. Tether was bunching up. Turns out if you hold it at about 45 regress it goes right in.
Thanks for the help everyone.
Sent from my C6833 using XDA Free mobile app
gutted!
I am so gutted i didn't see this thread before I sent my phone to Sony for warranty repair.
My gasket didn't fall off, it started to come unstuck so was hanging off and when closing the lid the gasket would unroll and the lid would open.
I sent it to Sony as I think this is there fault. The gasket should stay attached for the duration of the warranty.
They want to charge me £55 for repair, handling and shipping!! I have had my claim escalated and now they say 'upon further inspection the device is bent'!! They are willing to send it back free of charge should I not want to have it repaired...... But should I now expect the device they send back to me to bent when I know full well it was in near perfect condition when I sent to them?!?!
The bottom line is follow instructions from this thread. DO NOT send your phone to Sony.
Sony use 'authorised repair centres' so they don't even know what is going on with your device and the trust you put in Sony to give your device to a respected engineer is misplaced.
Hi there,
for Years i'm reading here silently and i never register myself.
I'm German and i hope that my english is well enough that you can understand my Questions.
I have a Question, not about Software for Samsung S8, so that's the Point for me to register here.
Hope that is the right Place in this Forum for my Question.
In the Future i plan to buy a S8 second hand. My Money is small so the most second hand S8 are in need of repair (Frontglas & Backcovers). Nothing what a Human with skills can handle. But i want to mod the S8 on the Side of Hardware.
Here is my Question:
Is it possible to make a Backcover from Aluminium and to use it instead of Glascover?
My thinking is to get a Originalcover and then to rebuild one from Aluminium (Thin it must be). CNC, or Lasercut for the precision.
I've googled many hours in the Hope to find something like this, but nothing.
So i want to ask you.
I think a Backcover from Alu ist not so breakable as Glas, more stable, but is it to realize without elektrical Danger to Part of the Phone.
I don't like the Cases & Bumpers & so on. I want to make my Phone more personal.
Are my thoughts crazy, or not? What do you think?
Hope my thread here is ok and do not conflict with the Forumrules. Sorry if that happens, but otherwise i will be thankfull for an answer or discussion about this Topic.
Greets to all outhere...
Interesting idea! Personally I would go with a skin like dbrand or slikwrap even if the glass is broken. Personal look and you don't lose any wireless functionality
Make sure that you remove the wireless charging coil before this!
Aluminium Backcover-Possible or not
Hi there,
i'm living in a relativ small Town in Northern Germany, but i hope i can find some
Manufacturers that can realize my idea. Maybe i must give an Order to some Firma over Google, or so.
To j91hernandez:
Can you give me eventually some links to the products. In Germany there are unknown, i think. I want to take a look on it.
I ask myself: is a Alu-BC thick enough to protect the Phone like the Glas-BC?
Or must can i use a Metall-BC instead Alu? I don't know.
The other thing is: you must remove the Original-BC to apply the, maybe stronger, Mod-BC. But if the S8 has no Guarantee you can make it like you wish.
Glas-Cover looks great, but i've seen so much broken S8s to buy in Ebay-Second Hand Shop, so i wondering, why nobody change the BC of the Phone to avoid the use of Cases, etc.
With a well designed Metall / Alu-BC it must be better, i think. Maybe you can make it less slippery for your Hands, too.
But: is there Dangers for electrical Parts of the Phone, i mean short circuit between Parts? In wich Way it affects the NFC Functions, etc.?
Maybe try & error! I'm willing to do so if i have the Money to buy a S8. So i try to get any Infos about that Projectidea.
zoroarctic said:
Make sure that you remove the wireless charging coil before this!
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That's a Point! The Function of the Phone shall be at 100%, so i think i must look and read about Phones with Metall-BC AND Wireless Charging how they doing it.
There would be a chance the metal backing by witch one would have to possibly custom make curves and all. But may dampen WiFi bluetooth and wireless signals. Anything other than plastic glass or aluminum I would imagine would interfere with wireless charging as well. Absorbing or warping the magnetic field
But I would say if a man could bend the edges properly a hand held rotary tool would more than likely suffice to do all edging and cutouts for various sensors. I have had to make due with home made metal object before but precision be on this is a must. As water resistance is more than like gone with the wind on this mod.....
Which I support fully
HoosierDaddy said:
There would be a chance the metal backing by witch one would have to possibly custom make curves and all. But may dampen WiFi bluetooth and wireless signals. Anything other than plastic glass or aluminum I would imagine would interfere with wireless charging as well. Absorbing or warping the magnetic field
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I agree with this
A plastic back would make much more sense as it would bend easier than metal for the corners while allowing for wireless charging and not causing any kind of electrical shorting issues.
zoroarctic said:
I agree with this
A plastic back would make much more sense as it would bend easier than metal for the corners while allowing for wireless charging and not causing any kind of electrical shorting issues.
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Hi there,
ok, Plastic-Cover is another idea to think about.
But it looks not so good as Alu, or Metall. Hm, maybe th use of a Skin can make the Optic cooler than. Another Sideeffekt is that the Plastik is covered then against big sctratches. No Danger for short circuits then and hopefully no problems with wireless charging and so on.
To Build such an BC is easier, right. Bending and cut out the Holes, that's all what we can make ourselves (if you are not Double-Lefthanded).
Thanks for the Input. Will think about that and trying it if i have my S8 in the Future.
A Fullbody-Cover protects the Phone completly (Front+Back), but on the other Side it is more thicker, unhandy. Often the Buttons are not good to press, and such things.
if you insist on aluminium/metal, then you are going to have to give up some functionalities. otherwise, plastics would be your only option. wood might be a viable option too, however durability would be an issue with the material.
imho though, you mentioned that you have limited money and if you're going to get an aluminium/metal/wood back cover machined by someone, it's going to cost more than you would think. replacement glass are way cheaper and as the other user suggested, you have vinyl wraps to get the look that you want