Hi all, apologies if this has been asked before, i searched the archive and couldn't find anything...
I have an XDA, and the little sensor thing which detects if the sim flap is open is not working, meaning that it thinks the sim flap is permanently open, so I can't use the thing
Does anyone have a magic answer to save my bacon? Pleeeease?
Thanks!
Do you mean the rubber cover on the side of the xda? I think you will need to open up the xda and short the contacts with a wire or solder joint for a permanent repair. You will need a small flat head screwdriver and a T6 torx driver, it is not too difficult a task as long as you take your time and treat the components with care. If you wish to do a temorary repair you can push something into the cavity beneath the rubber, this will hold down the switch. With the xda face down and the antenna facing left, lift the rubber cover, you will now see on the right hand side of the slot a recess, at the bottom of the recess you should see a small plastic pin which is attached to the mechanical lever/sensor, this needs to be pushed down and held, if that is missing/broken you could still try pushing something in that will hold down the remainder of the pin/lever. You can test the repair by switching on the xda as without it the xda will not switch on. Good luck.
At this point I should point out that because it kept turning off because the contact was faulty I've hacked about at it with a little screwdriver and the little spring lever is a thing of the past. Oops... I should never be allowed near a toolkit.
I guess taking apart and shorting the contact is next..... THanks for the pointers!
Well, just wanted to say a big thanks to cruisin-thru, as I just took my XDA apart and whacked a blob of solder on it, and I'm back in the land of working phones!
Thanks!
FOR A START IM PRETTY SURE MY XDA MANUAL SAID AND I MAKE A ROUGH QUOTE - 'DO NOT PROD ANYTHING AT THE MICROSWITCH OR YOU RISK SERIOUSLY DAMAGING YOUR UNIT - YOUR WARRANTY WILL BE INVALID IF U DO' I'm Pretty Sure IT has this Plastered EVERYWHERE in the Manual On The Box Ditto, Ditto, Give me an Email And I'll Send u Out a T-Shirt With 'Kiss Me Slow I'm Stupid' On it, You Lucky It Worked CHAP!
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I have been having problems with the touchscreen and this is a last ditch effort to fi x it.
I have come to the conclusion that I need to clean out the area around the screen. I have tried blowing it, and canned air but that hasn’t work so far.
I want to open up the T-mobile and clean it. Does anyone have any advice?? I am trying to find the FCC’s photos as a reference. Much thanks, I have learned quite a bit from this forum and I appreciate everyones help.
I'll start with assembly advice--be careful of the position of the on/off button relative to the switch below it as you snap the case back together. Don't ask me how I learned this... :shock:
The connector for the large ribbon cable from the screen has a flip-up cover/retainer, not the standard sliding retainer like the other cables.
There is a screw under a "Warranty Void if removed" sticker which must be removed. If you use a pen knife and a steady hand, you can remove the sticker and put it back. The sticker is one of those fragmented ones, so you must be extremely careful and slow.
Work on a soft surface (anti-stat mat, table cloth, etc) so parts that fall out don't bounce/roll and get lost.
Cover the screen face so you don't damage it accidentally.
Thanks! that helps......I am going to give it a try tommorrow...
One more question........the screws on the top of the XDA are standard flathead.......but the bottom two look hexagon shape...or sort of like a allen wrench...anyone know what to use to unscrew these????
It's a Torx, not sure what size. I think a T4, based upon the fact that my T5 was slightly too big. I ended up using a 1mm hex key which I had filed lightly on two of the sides.
Carlos said:
It's a Torx, not sure what size. I think a T4, based upon the fact that my T5 was slightly too big. I ended up using a 1mm hex key which I had filed lightly on two of the sides.
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Do yourself a favour and get the right Torx. You have no idea what a pain these things are to remove if they ever lose their teeth. It's a T-8, at least that's what it says on mine.
hi,
if u r not ,that, expert,,,,,,do not try to open it,,,go to some service center and get it cleaned.
or there would be an increase in posts ''xda not working ''
That's weird, I wonder if they used different size screws here in the US? I was wrong though, it's a T7 that was too big, so the right one would be T5 or T6 then for mine. Peter Poelman, you're in the Orient, are you not? Ever compare screw sizes with European units?
I usually agree with the "right tool" advice, but I was simply unable to find one anywhere (and I tried all the proper tool and electronics shops). The 1mm slightly shaved fit PERFECTLY with no damage to the screws at all.
Carlos said:
Peter Poelman, you're in the Orient, are you not? Ever compare screw sizes with European units?
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Click to collapse
I'm in Europe. Smack in the formal magical center of it. Now where that nice torq and screwdriver set is from, I don't know...
torx
the torx on mine are T6 same as ericsson phones and ipaq ppc.
Before we were so rudely interrupted in the original thread, we were discussing the G1 hardware keyboard replacements. Please folks, if you must flame each other do it via PMs to avoid locking legitimate threads.
I've been able to find some inexpensive after market replacements on eBay, but still am not sure how difficult it is to actually do that. All the sites I've been able to find on the subject only provide time-lapse dis-assembly instructions of the entire phone. If anyone has done the replacement themselves, I'd greatly appreciate pointers on how to keep my phone operational after I put it back together.
I replaced the white keyboard in my Dream with a black one. It was a scary operation as it takes a bit of force to dismantle. I accidently pulled my antenna off and disconnected a flylead. ment my phone had no signal at all. later when i got home (did it in work ) i took it apart again and fixed it.
Take your time and have patience, alot of it is plastic and clipped together so requires a bit of force.
May I ask what is wrong with the keys on the bronze one? I did a quick skim of the old post and gather that you can't see the keys in daylight but I don't get why?
I'm just genuinely interested, I have a black G1 so never had such a problem.
brummiesteven said:
May I ask what is wrong with the keys on the bronze one? I did a quick skim of the old post and gather that you can't see the keys in daylight but I don't get why?
I'm just genuinely interested, I have a black G1 so never had such a problem.
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It's the combination of silver keys with light-silver backlight that make the lettering almost impossible to see in day light conditions. I'd take a picture if I had a camera with me today. Whoever came up with that color combination should be fired. Or at least made to stare at it every day for the next year. I have to tilt the keyboard at a weird angle just to distinguish the letters. From what I understand the white G1s suffer from the same problem.
The "Backlight Off" app definitely helps as it lets you toggle the backlight with a keyboard shortcut. I'm looking for a more hardware solution though.
I've been thinking about changing keyboards and housings too. But from what ppl are saying it seems to be pretty exhaustive. Do any of you guys have the service manual? I DL'ed it from somewhere and it goes through each step of disassembly and also shows assembly. I'm sure it would help out to give an idea of what you need. But like I said, even having read the service manual, it's still quite scary.
A full housing from my understanding is a bitc(....doing the KB I can see why. The LCD portions look ridiculously complex in comparison to other phones.
That said if you have the proper tools , good organization or memory , steady hands and patience really shouldnt be "that" tough to do the keyboard.
Heres the thing. Its really not that hard to unscrew things etc...but the piece you need to move in order to get proper access to the KB has 2 ribbons that are a PAIN IN THE ASS to take off and put back properly. Theres so little room for error.If youve never worked with ribbons before BE CAREFUL.
I will say G1 is pretty unique in how its put together , I swear they were determined to make it as complicated as possible
The really pain in the ass part is that the online manual/guide will merely tell you something like "remove part A" but no explanation how. Theres also 2 screws I swear it glossed over leading to frustration when I did the trackball/front keys.
Torx 5 and really good mini screw driver are mandatory.
Nice lil workstation is really helpful..(masking tape ,towel , table lamp or LED headlamp , vitamin/pill cases etc)
Im no mechanical engineer but Ive opened up damn near everything Ive ever owned at some point. Took me a solid 3 hours from start to finish. With major time spent on organizing the screws pieces and those damn ribbons.
I will say the black KB makes a HUGE difference. Black key on the front arent necessary but do look better and add much needed contrast.
KOF33 said:
I will say the black KB makes a HUGE difference. Black key on the front arent necessary but do look better and add much needed contrast.
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Pics, or it didn't happen
Thanks for the tips!
Chahk said:
Pics, or it didn't happen
Thanks for the tips!
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As you can see I also replaced the trackball with a glowing white one.
lol at the trackball
doing a case swap is only bad the first time LMAO. I learned a lot, like for example the brass inserts that the screws go into...are not pre-installed. You must CUT Them out of the old housing and HAMMER them into the new oneBut in the end, it turned out very nice.
As far as just replacing the keyboard, it isnt too bad actually once you know what screws hold what down!
-Remove the 6 torx screws for the back housing
-GENTLY pry open the TOP of the casing with a plastic case tool, work your way down to the bottom of the housing. The bottom is a PITA to remove. I usually get it by rocking it gently back and forth
-remove the long and short coax leads from the motherboard side. swing them out of the way
-peel back the tape and GENTLY pull the bottom connector (mouthpiece module) from the motherboard.
-peel back more tape and lift the latch for the keyboard connector (the one on the side)
-Peel the camera module up SLOWLY (it is double side taped down) as well as the imei card. The cam cable is routed under it, lift it all as a unit. When you get to the motherboard, STOP
-Now, gently twist the whole camera and motherboard unit as a whole until it is free of the latch on the side. Gently lift the camera end exposing the 2 small ribbon connectors on the bottom.
-Peel back the tape and GENTLY lift the ribbon connectors out of the board. Place the motherboard/camera unit to the side for now.
-Remove all the black and silver screws for the metal piece. The lcd should stay in place as the mouthpiece plastics kinda hold it for you, but you should still support it to keep from hurting the connections.
-Viola, keyboard access. Remember when you put it back together be sure to re-tape all the connections, else when you drop your phone one of them may pop loose.
Keeping the motherboard and camera/imea plate all as one module saves you from a very difficult connection and will help you keep everything aligned when reassembling it.
I guess the spacebar has 2 functioning buttons, (left and right) ... well my right side just konked on me, and i was wondering if a replacement keyboard off ebay will fix this, or are they just the button "covers"?
the "buttons" are just plastic nubs that make contact on a board behind it. That board would be what you need. I dont know if there are any on eBay, but I have a spare one if you want to PM me for details.
I dropped my G1 about 6 months ago and was devastated. After entirely too much research I finally got the guts to purchase a replacement digitizer and managed to install it successfully. However, in the process I managed to rip the LCD ribbon cable. I then had to order a replacement LCD screen. I've also damaged one of the black ribbon cables pretty severely causing the touchscreen to become unresponsive sporadically. I've just placed an order for one of those ribbon cables and will hopefully have that up and running soon. I've also purchased an entire new housing unit to rebuild the phone to make it look as new.
Now when I first took this thing apart I was by NO MEANS an expert or have ever done something like this before. I'm just an avid enthusiast who wanted to save a little money, feel a sense of accomplishment and to learn a few things along the way. I technically paid nearly the same amount of money it would have cost me to send the unit to HTC for repair, however i've learned everything there is to know about my phone's hardware. I know which board does what and are extremely confident about fixing ANY hardware problem in the future.
If you have the time, patience, and truly want to become confident about the workings of your phone, then I highly recommend fixing it yourself. I've bought my parts for VERY cheap off of reputable ebay buyers. You can find EVERY single piece for your phone on Ebay. My LCD has 1 dead pixel, but I guess that's the risk you take when you buy really cheap parts.
Hope this helps.
I tried to fix my GPS problem with the Hardware fix and accidently broke the cheap lead that you need slightly bend.
what can I do to fix my GPS?
You'll need to build some solder up on it, then file it flat to the right height so it makes good contact with the antenna, I broke mine as well on my 1st phone, but the up side is, using the solder buildup made for awesome sat reception, my 2nd phone i used hard plastic between the c shaped brass contact to keep it elevated so it wouldn't lose tension, but the solder still has it as the best, but in your scenario u have no their choice now, short of replacing the MB or maybe josh at mobile tech in Texas may be able to solder another contact on, but again that means sending it to him= down time with the phone plus added$$ as well, but those are your choices right now, Good Luck, if you don't know how to solder find someone who can with a sharp pointed iron otherwise you or them will destroy the board, and don't forget to use flux and prep the broken piece clean so the solder will adhere.
i broke the tab off too many months back and unfortunately i don't have great soldering skills or the correct soldering iron either i improvised and bought a piece of copper wiring at Home Depot, i bought a foot of it, but you only really need like 1mm of it.. once cut i filed it down enough so that it can make contact on both sides as well as put a piece of tape to make a pseudo-blockade so the piece of copper is secure when closed. It's not the first choice of repair, but if you are out of options this might work for you. The best accuracy I can get with this method is around 30-50feet average (outdoors). it can never get better than that, i am assuming because the signal isn't getting transferred optimally.
I wouldnt do this If I were you
candyman123 said:
i broke the tab off too many months back and unfortunately i don't have great soldering skills or the correct soldering iron either i improvised and bought a piece of copper wiring at Home Depot, i bought a foot of it, but you only really need like 1mm of it.. once cut i filed it down enough so that it can make contact on both sides as well as put a piece of tape to make a pseudo-blockade so the piece of copper is secure when closed. It's not the first choice of repair, but if you are out of options this might work for you. The best accuracy I can get with this method is around 30-50feet average (outdoors). it can never get better than that, i am assuming because the signal isn't getting transferred optimally.
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First of all candyman, not flaming you or disrespecting you, but I think that's a very BAD suggestion, because if that piece of copper ever becomes dislodged, say to dropping the phone and it drifts into the MB or anything that's carrying current thru it, it will short over to whatever each end touches, and that would be catastrophic for the Phone, and would truly be a Totally Hard-bricked situation, the phone would have to be rebuilt with new components that were affected by the shorting. Just saying that anytime you have a unsecured piece of metal moving around circuitry, its just a matter of time before it shorts out. Soldering is still his best option or send to Josh at Mobile tech.
dseldown said:
First of all candyman, not flaming you or disrespecting you, but I think that's a very BAD suggestion, because if that piece of copper ever becomes dislodged, say to dropping the phone and it drifts into the MB or anything that's carrying current thru it, it will short over to whatever each end touches, and that would be catastrophic for the Phone, and would truly be a Totally Hard-bricked situation, the phone would have to be rebuilt with new components that were affected by the shorting. Just saying that anytime you have a unsecured piece of metal moving around circuitry, its just a matter of time before it shorts out. Soldering is still his best option or send to Josh at Mobile tech.
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haha thank you for the serious concern and i have thought about the dangers myself and i know it's super ghetto fix but i do have a piece of tape covering the "side to side" movement of the copper piece so if it does somehow get dislodged it can't move anywhere. the "up and down" movement is being stopped by the sandwiching of the vibrant case/contacts.
although i do need to recheck/refile the copper piece down. i might consider a more safer/permanent fix
Hopefully your phone is under warranty.
Or you don't really use the GPS.
IDK Why???
kaintfm said:
Hopefully your phone is under warranty.
Or you don't really use the GPS.
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OMG, what is the problem here, soldering is about as easy as it gets, Hell cooking a meal is way more involved than soldering, IDK why people bail on simple fixes and immediately risk going for a warranty when it may kick you in the balls, when they open it up and discover the tab broke, and send ya a 399$ bill in your next invoice!!
help me pls, read this
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=22197595&postcount=941
I have had my Ultra Z since January. Zero problems, but this morning I removed my USB charger at work and a rubber gasket (see pic) fell out. Now the door does not close properly. I have the gasket and tried to work it back in but it would not go. There is a small tab and I cannot tell if it goes up (towards the screen) or down. I think I can get it back in with a toothpick or similar but want it to stay (and not lose it) and for it to re-seal the door properly. Not being able to close the USB door is a BIG deal to me.
I had been meaning to get a docking charger but bought some from China and they were crap. Guess I'll have to break down and get a real DK30.
The o-ring goes on the door.
Tab to back by the looks
Glue it back? What kind of glue?
Sent from my C6833 using XDA Free mobile app
mknewman said:
Glue it back? What kind of glue?
Sent from my C6833 using XDA Free mobile app
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Try crazy glue very very small amount and please let it dry fully before putting the cap back into the phone!!!
Jammol said:
Try crazy glue very very small amount and please let it dry fully before putting the cap back into the phone!!!
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Thanks Jammol. I'll try to figure this out. When I place it in the position it appears to belong in (now that I look closely I can see the small tab indention on the cap) but the part is so small I cannot even handle it with my big fat fingers, and don't really have a magnification station and stability setup to do it.
Big question is for the people who have had the cap break off, is there a source for the whole cap? Is it possible to install without taking the whole phone apart? Would it make sense to just throw it away and forget it was there?
mknewman said:
Thanks Jammol. I'll try to figure this out. When I place it in the position it appears to belong in (now that I look closely I can see the small tab indention on the cap) but the part is so small I cannot even handle it with my big fat fingers, and don't really have a magnification station and stability setup to do it.
Big question is for the people who have had the cap break off, is there a source for the whole cap? Is it possible to install without taking the whole phone apart? Would it make sense to just throw it away and forget it was there?
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I don't know what part of the world you are in but you can check these out. Couple folks have bought them:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Original-Son...zer_Ersatzteile_Werkzeuge&hash=item2339fdd95e
I say just replaced the entire cap with one of those and call it good. Mine is experiencing the same thing, tearing off little by little. I think that is where water might be getting into my phone, but I'll be replacing the phone soon anyways. Just not sure what to get yet.
I have not gotten mine wet yet other than rain in my pocket but the lines are much better with the cap on than removed, and I'd worry about the edge material getting pulled off the rest of the phone. I appreciate the ebay refrence and will try to find a US version. So is there a way to remove the old cap without breaking it off internally and having the tab rattling around inside?
I ordered a couple of the caps and a magnetic charger off thEbay US, but seller was in Spain so it will be a while. Crappy design trying to get rubber to adhere to plastic.
Does anyone know how to safely remove the old one? Just yank? slip something very thin in to try to get the tab to ride over the notch?
Thanks,
Marc
Super glue is what bonds o-rings to other materials because of the greasy slippery surface. Mine has also come loose. Contact glue, industrial glue or anything else wont bite on that thing because of its chemical resistance that the o-ring has.
try to get a hold of a bottle of Loctite 401 meanwhile if you can't wait for the parts
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOCTITE-401...Instant-Adhesive-Super-Glue-20g-/121407567300
to remove the old one just pull..just a bit harder ...its kind of some bend at the end of the flap that's holding the thing in place inside the device.
Apply with a pin or paper clip I take it?
SÜPERUSER said:
Super glue is what bonds o-rings to other materials because of the greasy slippery surface. Mine has also come loose. Contact glue, industrial glue or anything else wont bite on that thing because of its chemical resistance that the o-ring has.
try to get a hold of a bottle of Loctite 401 meanwhile if you can't wait for the parts
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOCTITE-401...Instant-Adhesive-Super-Glue-20g-/121407567300
to remove the old one just pull..just a bit harder ...its kind of some bend at the end of the flap that's holding the thing in place inside the device.
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mknewman said:
Apply with a pin or paper clip I take it?
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mmm something like that I dunno really.. I've yet have to figure this out myself lol. Use your imagination! :laugh:
At my moms work when I was young they had superglue bottles from loctite with really tiny metal pipes attached on them I wonder what loctite model that is. They could be used to do any precision work!
So it's possible to get the new one in properly once I get the old one out? From this picture it appears the new tab should slide in but I'm worried if you have to tug hard to get the old one out.
SÜPERUSER said:
to remove the old one just pull..just a bit harder ...its kind of some bend at the end of the flap that's holding the thing in place inside the device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
calm down...just pull on it. You won't break anything
edit: its no big deal to get the new one in
Great! Thanks, that's a relief. I'll let ya'll know how it goes when I get it. May buy a few extras too.
I got the replacement parts from thEbay tonight. Pulled on the old one and it came right out. Took 2-3 tries to get new one in. Tether was bunching up. Turns out if you hold it at about 45 regress it goes right in.
Thanks for the help everyone.
Sent from my C6833 using XDA Free mobile app
gutted!
I am so gutted i didn't see this thread before I sent my phone to Sony for warranty repair.
My gasket didn't fall off, it started to come unstuck so was hanging off and when closing the lid the gasket would unroll and the lid would open.
I sent it to Sony as I think this is there fault. The gasket should stay attached for the duration of the warranty.
They want to charge me £55 for repair, handling and shipping!! I have had my claim escalated and now they say 'upon further inspection the device is bent'!! They are willing to send it back free of charge should I not want to have it repaired...... But should I now expect the device they send back to me to bent when I know full well it was in near perfect condition when I sent to them?!?!
The bottom line is follow instructions from this thread. DO NOT send your phone to Sony.
Sony use 'authorised repair centres' so they don't even know what is going on with your device and the trust you put in Sony to give your device to a respected engineer is misplaced.
MY XZU Cable fault ;-c
I try to fix
But, the cable is attached to the motherboard
I do not know what I soldered or heat ;-c
Help the person to fix cables
Attachments Photo!!!
HEXAHN said:
MY XZU Cable fault ;-c
I try to fix
But, the cable is attached to the motherboard
I do not know what I soldered or heat ;-c
Help the person to fix cables
Attachments Photo!!!
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You can't fix this by yourself, unfortunately. It's glued on with some special adhesive, the contacts are to tiny to solder. The glue you buy on ebay (i assume), next problem is getting the flex cable on the right place and keep it their while glueing.....
You can look for a motherboard replacement, only last time i checked it's almost as expensive as a new phone.
Some manufacturers use small clamps for the flex cable, i assume glue is the trade off for this tiny device...
I've been to this hassle myself, i ended up on buying a new ultra
Has someone have any other suggestions? Have detached the main flex from the board. Had the main flex broken, wanted to fix, but know it's just disassembled. Had display problems before.
Can someone have some ideas? like those clamps you mentioned.
Bro your beating a dead horse, just buy a used one online
hot bar soldering attachment, anisotropic adhesive film/tape( apparently you can buy this for whole sale only. lucky for me the company I work with has spare trimmings of this), microscope or powerful magnifying glass and a lot of patience.
bump, i am in this boat, there must be a dozen lines on the cable, i cant imagine soldering it without shorting it out....
Why do they sell those toys that cannot be repaired by the way?
I'm in the same boat an all y'all being no help are no help so bump outta here already cuz everyone else in this boat looking for the answer doesn't wanna WASTE THEIR TIME on your helpless posts.
To recap we have the solder method which sounds like rubbish as flex cables melt.
Then there's that kind of adhesive glue and/or tape. Clamping is the reason phone companies profits dwindled until they switched to this new clampless method. I'm not gonna buy in bulk cuz I'm not about to start up a cell phone chop shop so maybe get a magnifying headset, some Walmart super glue that says mess free, and use a needle to dab the glue on in the right points but don't cover any contacts!
Did anyone ever managed to get this done?
I also recently experienced, looking at google solution does not get the information.
Try YouTube? I'm sure it applies to other z models
jigzerx said:
Did anyone ever managed to get this done?
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I just did this. I didnt use that ADH* glue some people are talking about. I simply inspected how the old one is soldered on. Then removed the old one. There will be slight residue of the glue people are mentioning. I just simply took the solder tip OFF my soldering iron. then used a magnify glass to align the new ribbon. I also used clear tape to hold half of the ribbon down. Meaning i did 1 side at a time. So i taped from the middle to the far left to hold the ribbon down. I then used the blunt end of my soldering iron with the tip removed to press down with some force. Stayed in one location and counted to 20 the slid a little bit to the left. repeated this till the right 50% of the ribbon seemed glued down. I then applied clear tape over this portion and moved over to the previously taped left side. Repeating what I did on the right. after about 10 minutes of work. attached battery, press on button, phone came on. Then tested volume up and down and all worked.
lesterine said:
I just did this. I didnt use that ADH* glue some people are talking about. I simply inspected how the old one is soldered on. Then removed the old one. There will be slight residue of the glue people are mentioning. I just simply took the solder tip OFF my soldering iron. then used a magnify glass to align the new ribbon. I also used clear tape to hold half of the ribbon down. Meaning i did 1 side at a time. So i taped from the middle to the far left to hold the ribbon down. I then used the blunt end of my soldering iron with the tip removed to press down with some force. Stayed in one location and counted to 20 the slid a little bit to the left. repeated this till the right 50% of the ribbon seemed glued down. I then applied clear tape over this portion and moved over to the previously taped left side. Repeating what I did on the right. after about 10 minutes of work. attached battery, press on button, phone came on. Then tested volume up and down and all worked.
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Can u explain me how u attached the flex cable back to its place. I didnt full understud this explanation. Have the same problem hoping u can help me.
using the soldering iron t shape tip, step 1 using the scraper to scrap away the glue then install the silicone strip to heat the flex cable on the board. hope this help.
Have same problem too! When I transferred the board with the power/volume button flex cable to a new housing, I accidentally lifted part of the flex cable causing my XZU C6833 not to boot up, no vibration and no screen image.
And can't seem to find any tutorial on how to properly attach the said cable onto the main board.
Will try lesterine's solution.