The battery used for test is a BST-38 li-ion and should be 1200mah 2€ so I don't expect to be a great battery but this is only for reference.
tear down instructions
Please read all before starting this will help you choose the most convenient acting way.
Removal of original battery from its placing is a pain in the ass, cause it is very well attached to the aluminium cover whith a very sticky double-face tape ...so proceed with caution, after that I preferred to remove that tape: this permits to connect the battery "the rough way (img 10)" and then place the cover whithout sticking.
1
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2
3
4
5
This battery was easy to disassemble by removing printed tape and making a small cut on the bottom
...but be aware this may be not so easy with others!!
6
7
8
soldered wires, this is a very complicated step for those who do not know how to use a solder very well, short circuit is round the corner, so first solder positive wire, then cover it with a good thermal tape then proceed with green (again cover it) and finally go for black. (however remember to solder wires in a sequence that avoids overlapping of wires while soldering: if the sequence was black>green>red it would have been easy to melt black wire while soldering green wire... and melt both green and black wire's cover while soldering red)
Note that wires are soldered to run on the opposite direction in comparison wiht the original battery wiring, the reason is to obtain a perfect fit into battery compartment and to obtain a better resistance to wire dragging.
9
Paper tape has been used to insulate battery's body.
Please note that this picture does not show the final battery placing, you should imagine the batteryrotated by 180° (with wires on the right of the current image and then running on the side of the battery up to the hole which exposes the connector).
So make sure the wires are long enough if you are wishing to use this setup
(otherwise simply solder wires to run the opposite way compared to img 8).
(warning: the whole body is the Negative pole of the battery)
10
Wires need to be cut perfectly to make sure they don't move,
green wire should be a little bit shorter than red and black shorter than green.
Wire's edges are stained, flattened with plain edge pliers to fit into connector (a hammer and a flat surface will do the job too) and cut to result fully inserted (this avoids unwanted wire scattering while plugging into connector). All this paying much attention to not short circuit wires (I suggest to ready wires one by one insulating with tape each edge, when done proceed by deinsulating and plugging one by one).
warning : positive (red wire) and middle battery contact (green wire) are both positive so prevent any hazard, notice that the whole battery's body is NEGATIVE so handle all wires paying much attention!!
yeah I know i did'nt use the original connector but this is not meant to be a permanent solution
and still have the original battery usable
Before closing the hole with its rubber cover I placed some folded paper on the wires shown in image 10 (just to make sure the cables don't move).
Thanks to TheCuteCriminal for making public that Bst-38 batteries can be modded to fit
Good work !!!
Good tutorial & good Job Gx3.......
This will be helpful for many people....
And thanks for mentioning my name.....
ps: now im modding our data-cable. Hope after modding,the USB-OTG feauture will be available on our mini's.
for who's interested this battery seems not so bad,
yesterday I had poor performance while calibrating but today is behaving much better, however I will give you more accurate details after few more power cycles cause the battery seems to have been stocked for a long time (traces of rust inside inner contacts )
this thread is now linked in the 3rd post of my FAQ
thk you both
regarding the 1200mah 3gpower battery:
now seems to have reached its ful capacity (in 5 cycles)
when I made the substitution the original battery used to last 8-9h with 3g data on and without sync (running miniCM 2.3.1), til now it endured about 800-900 charging cycles
It is well known that minicm (cyanogenmod) has a high battery drain under 3g with data on and
this battery lasts 12h with data on and sync enabled (more power drain), + 20 call minutes.
now I completed the definitive calibration, and will test in normal conditions
I can tell it behaves a little better than original when was new and it seems that dischargnig is more linear
takes about 100 min for charge vs first charge's 60 minutes
It took a while to obtain an almost full battery waking, but now it is all ok
more details in the next few days
Seems complicated, thank god I got a mini pro.
so how is the battery performing in everyday life? better than stock or similar to it?
Good tutorial ! Thanks!
I've just ordered the gold bst 38 2430mah battery... this is meant to be a more serious attempt with a much nicer battery... and eager to unveil results
assembly
well it looks ok to tear it down, but how do we assemble it again?
i tried once to change the front cover but couldnt dare to pull the connection of the screen. coz i dont dont how to connect them again
Odysseus348 said:
well it looks ok to tear it down, but how do we assemble it again?
i tried once to change the front cover but couldnt dare to pull the connection of the screen. coz i dont dont how to connect them again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
all of them are pressure autolocking type connectors or lever locking flat cables, the only hassle may be operating in a narrow environment... but a pair of cheap precision pliers can do the job
i know that guy from russia had put a Nokia battery into x10 mini
Jokerok said:
i know that guy from russia had put a Nokia battery into x10 mini
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
link please? because I am considering buying the GOLD battery..
emmanuelcassar said:
link please? because I am considering buying the GOLD battery..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry just tested.... gold bst 38 2430mah cannot fit....
Gx3 said:
Sorry just tested.... gold bst 38 2430mah cannot fit....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
even if you cut the edges with a dremel or saw?
emmanuelcassar said:
even if you cut the edges with a dremel or saw?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the whole battery is metal (no full body frame as the 3g battery of the guide) even removing the bottom plastic this one has, it is still way too big, and I won't saw its metal body... it will be surely damaged...
Gx3 said:
the whole battery is metal (no full body frame as the 3g battery of the guide) even removing the bottom plastic this one has, it is still way too big, and I won't saw its metal body... it will be surely damaged...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so what is the battery I can buy for the x10 mini?
emmanuelcassar said:
so what is the battery I can buy for the x10 mini?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess it will be a matter of luck... i found the 3g 1200mah battery on ebay very cheap and easily moddable though calibration process is a little tricky due to the li-ion technology (original batt was li-poly)...
EP500
Hello.
I was able to fit an original X8 battery (EP500 - 1200mAh).
Sorry but I cannot post any pics for the moment.
i would greatly appreciate that you upload some photos or a small tutorial on how you made it fit in the mini..
and was it the x10 mini or x10 mini pro? and did you notice any improvements in battery life?
Related
Ok, here is a little review on the extended battery (2800 mAh) and its bulky back casing.
comparing the extended battery casing and standard casing, and the batteries:
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in my hand:
physically, the back casing fits nicely...yeah it makes the TP2 more bulky and yeah, you'll notice the bulk. but, i need the extra power....
Physical Review
The extended battery is heavier than the standard one, so, its not just adding the extra bulk but also extra weight. If you are already used to the weight of TP2, you wont notice the extra weight but you will immediately notice the extra bulk!! Surprisingly the back casing sits firmer than the standard casing, i dont experience the usual "accidently opened casing" using theextended battery casing. The material is plastic with a glossy finish, similar to original casing (quality is still questionable thou), sadly, the color is light grey so it makes the coloring uneven. A darker grey would be better. The extended casing will add an extra around 3-4 mm to the device. I did not notice any difference in the sound produce by the extra casing compared to the standard one. the volume keys works well, the mute button also does the job, glowing only on the side gaps. The stylus hole is too deep, its a pain to get the stylus out. But hey, i dont think I ever take out the stylus except only when I have to do a softreset.
Performance
I need to let you know that i'm a very heavy user of the device. Using standard battery on EDGE, i usually get 9 hours of juice, sometimes less (4.5 hours standby, 4.5 hours usage). When i turn it to HSPA, it would go for only 6 hours. If i use automatic, it will go in between. My test on the battery is using the automatic for the first cycle, EDGE and HSPA will be added later.
Test result:
Automatic setting: 14 hours
EDGE only: 17 hours
HSPA only: 10 hours
Looking good there.... I predict for normal usage will add extra 1-2 days of durability.
and oh yeah, i bought it here...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200368357997&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Maybe you could mention it's a 2800mAh battery in the first post.
Wonder how long the battery lasts. I get about 3 to 4 days with my Vario V wich is a lot for a WM device
thanks mate, just edited it,
my standard battery last me for 9 hours so i'm hoping it would last me more than 15 hours
Seems like a pretty heavy device to me. Since the original TP2 isn't really light when you get it.
added performance review.
forgive me for asking, but what exactly do you do on the device that drains the battery that quickly ?? i get by about 3 days on standby, 36 hours with cell radio on, 36 hours without. a little bit of wifi and text messaging and around 15 minutes of phone calls each day, give or take a few minutes.
Just a guess, but probably the GPS is the problem. That, on any phone, EATS battery capacity rapidly.
There's a new SiRF chipset - v4 - due out soon, that allegedly combats this problem, but we won't be seeing that in phones for at least two generations yet, due to design, prototyping, pre-production, production, and lead time to market issues, of course.
i would, however, jump on this if htc released their own official battery pack with a proper battery cover.
does ne one know if this will fit the cdma version (telus) touch pro 2
Isn't the extended battery WIDER than the original? How does it fit in then?
Isn't the extended battery WIDER than the original? How does it fit in then?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL with new casing man.
somethingdope said:
forgive me for asking, but what exactly do you do on the device that drains the battery that quickly ?? i get by about 3 days on standby, 36 hours with cell radio on, 36 hours without. a little bit of wifi and text messaging and around 15 minutes of phone calls each day, give or take a few minutes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using my push mail as replacement of me texting, and i do mails a lot!!!
leginag said:
Isn't the extended battery WIDER than the original? How does it fit in then?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
not WIDER but THICKER and it fits in well in the compartment thou it will pop up half of the extra battery's body.
RogerStenning said:
Just a guess, but probably the GPS is the problem. That, on any phone, EATS battery capacity rapidly.
There's a new SiRF chipset - v4 - due out soon, that allegedly combats this problem, but we won't be seeing that in phones for at least two generations yet, due to design, prototyping, pre-production, production, and lead time to market issues, of course.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nah, GPS is normal.....its the data traffic that eats me battery
Try to replace the battery when it runs low.. Maybe it will increase the battery life.
this was the case with the 2800 battery for the tytn II...
It refilled till 60 % i think after first replace, than till 20 after second..
I think thats a known issue for some of yours
RogerStenning said:
There's a new SiRF chipset - v4 - due out soon, that allegedly combats this problem, but we won't be seeing that in phones for at least two generations yet, due to design, prototyping, pre-production, production, and lead time to market issues, of course.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Offtopic, but.
SiRF IV is for dedicated GPS devices. Phones have been using A-GPS functions of SoC chips for some time now. Now recent *phone* that I know of uses SiRF chips and I don't expect this to change for the foreseeable future, even with SiRF IV. Yes, there will be lower power A-GPS SoCs out there, but the savings will be negated by higher Mhz CPU/GPU combinations.
I got a 2nd battery which I think more practical..
With the bigger battery, it won't fit in the case or the car holder for GPS use!
phigafr said:
I got a 2nd battery which I think more practical..
With the bigger battery, it won't fit in the case or the car holder for GPS use!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
where did you buy it from anyways?
Got it locally in a PDA shop
phigafr said:
I got a 2nd battery which I think more practical..
With the bigger battery, it won't fit in the case or the car holder for GPS use!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
true it wont fit, but more practical in a way u dont have to charge 2 batteries and i use my car tray and sits my tp2 there using antislip surface (tilted) looks more natural.
Powermat wireless charging is now available to view here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2158978
======================================================================================================================
First let me say big thanks to Ryan_G for creating the Note 2 Wireless charging mod - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1951493
The style/technique I am going to show you is an improvement of my version on page 18 in the above thread - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=33655816&postcount=171
It's very simple, cheap, clean, and easy to do. No soldering required... just folding strips of copper foil tape, and since this is the age of gangnam style, I will call it
Origami Style
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need:
1. Palm Pre Touchstone back cover = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200650663739?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
2. Copper foil tape (6mm) = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360430320375?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
3. Palm touchstone dock with wall charger - you can use an old charger with a 5v with a minimum 1amp and a mini usb plug - http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8474/8138632678_b0959be5ac_c.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The charging rate of this mod is around 12% per hour based on my testing...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
==========================
S-Pen problems ???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have also experienced this, and it happens when you place the Palm receiver is a little high. You should place the receiver in a low position. Make sure the Palm receiver's bottom is almost aligned to the bottom of the battery. Please see Pic 7 below.
==========================
pics:
Stick the charging unit on the back cover so that it will sit approximately on top of the battery.
Cut about 3-4 inches of 6mm copper foil tape then cut it lentghwise.
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I'll let the pics do the talking....
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6. You need to remove the rubber sticker (see inside green circle) from the touchstone case, and put it on top of the contact points (rolled copper). This will put presure on the contacts as you fit the Note 2's back cover.
7. Below pic, green arrows show the approximate location of the copper on the back cover. The copper contacts on the back cover don't need to be perfectly aligned with rolled copper contacts on the phone, but this is your choice to make... (look at the green arrows again, and pic no. 10 below) Click link just below the picture for bigger image.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8065/8176857101_c857bec63b_k.jpg
8. On the back of the phone, on the right side of the battery are the terminals, stick another copper tape with rolled ends on each. Please note the top contact is the Positive, and the bottom is Negative, don't panic if the bottom copper tape comes in contact with the little screw as they are both negative.
9. You can see in pic below the rubber sticker I mentioned earlier in picture no. 6
bigger pic here: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8489/8176892024_b5f1333d95_k.jpg
10. This is how they will line up... don't forget to insulate the other exposed parts of the copper tape. I use Kapton tape, but you can use anything like electrical tape.
#############################################################
I have successfully used this mod with a Rock case. I had to sand the inner side of the case though.
##############################################################
Mod versions:
V1 = "Z" connector, needs etching and most expensive and time consuming
video
V2 = Origami
V3 = modified V1. Does not require etching so saves time and dosh.
video below.
Please NOTE, the mod below causes S-Pens problems. The only reson is that the receiver is a little too high. Once I replaced the contacts to the original "Z" design, the problem with S-Pen was gone.
I was also hoping to do this mod to a powermat wireless charging unit, but I was disappointed to find out the powermat receiver unit is so thick. See pictures below:
image below shows the actual innards of the powermat universal receiver which is charging my wife's Desire HD phone. Look at the light on the left from the powermat dock, and the green light on the phone.
image below shows the palm toughstone front alongside the powermat
and below shows the back sides ;-}
palm/powermat porn:
here we can clearly see the thickness on the powermat.
Only hope we have to be able to utilize the powermat is if there are Note 2 back cases that have more room inside to accommodate the thickness of the powermat, or if there is a thinner powermat receiver.
Confirmed works on the following variants:
N7100 International version
N7105 INternational version - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=33830216&postcount=239
Canadian i317M (Bell Canada) - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=34140856&postcount=29
AT&T - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=34191869&postcount=298
Confirmed does not work on:
(Copied from Ryan-G's wireless thread - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1951493 0
US TMobile Note II SGH-T889 (Has the charging pins for wireless charging)
Please see http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=1978276
Sprint Note II (has no slots for charging pins, but confirmed working when taking the middle housing cover off and finding the wireless charging contacts underneath)
Have a look at this http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...&postcount=240
This looks interesting....
Awesome! Eagerly awaiting!
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
Good news!
sent with my beast N2, powered by Cis80 and the red pill...
Nice work
Inviato dal mio CIS N2-7100 con tapatalk 2
Nice Thanks for sharing!
About to pull the trigger on this- can you share the ebay link where you got the copper tape from? Don't know which one to get
very useful..!
Don't forget to put some insulating tape over all that exposed copper... You just want the ends exposed.
so this really works? wireless charging just sounds like it wouldn't exist lol. how good does it charge and how exactly?
You never heard of Nikola Tesla?
He in theory proved that you can deliver electrical current thru the air or via the clouds...
Imagine having free electric. Now who do you think doesn't want that to happen
Nuf OT.
Is it a must to have copper tape? How about thin gold tape?
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
how far do you have to be from a device? and generally everywhere you got there is one readily available?
entwicklun said:
how far do you have to be from a device? and generally everywhere you got there is one readily available?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the phone needs to be docked
entwicklun said:
so this really works? wireless charging just sounds like it wouldn't exist lol. how good does it charge and how exactly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a very simple principle that's been around for decades... Electric toothbrushes have used it for years due to the safety around water.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inductive_charging
I meant to ask this in the other thread but I'll ask here...
Does this affect the S-Pen function since it uses magnets?
I have all the parts ready to go but am slightly hesitant.
Can this be done, and has it been, on the sprint version?
sent from my sgs2e4t running cm10.
Subd
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using xda app-developers app
mikelav456 said:
Can this be done, and has it been, on the sprint version?
sent from my sgs2e4t running cm10.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Apparently this mod does not dowrk with: (Taken from the first page of Ryan_G's wireless thread...
US TMobile Note II SGH-T889 (Has the charging pins for wireless charging)
Please see http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=1978276
AT&T Note II (Same as US TMobile, has the charging pins but doesn't work)
Sprint Note II (has no slots for charging pins, but confirmed working when taking the middle housing cover off and finding the wireless charging contacts underneath)
Have a look at this http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...&postcount=240
CitizenLee said:
I meant to ask this in the other thread but I'll ask here...
Does this affect the S-Pen function since it uses magnets?
I have all the parts ready to go but am slightly hesitant.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope it doesn't affect any of the S-Pen function or even the compass, and NFC work normal aswell. The magnets are not strong plus the battery seems to shield it from the rest of the phone. I use the s pen for notes practically everyday for my job, I've also attached a screenshot of the Wacom Test which you can enter by dialing *#0*#
For those of you who don't know I got my start in the mobile arena with the Palm Pre and Pixi. Although others will argue with me, they were quite literally the best phones ever! They did have a few drawbacks, the biggest one being that HP bought Palm and didn't know how to build the brand so they killed it... Recently it was announced that HP was shutting down their server support for all things Palm. This means no more device activations, no App Store, etc. This announcement created some nostalgia for me and I started reminiscing on all the amazing things Palm did that Android still doesn't do right. The biggest was their wireless (inductive) charging. I've tried various different Qi chargers and other methods but they were all unreliable or caused my device to run really hot when it was on the charging pad. I stumbled on a few tutorials that showed how to take the Palm Pre and use it to mod the Android device and create an inductive charger. I've taken their instructions and modified them to work on the S5 and with a Palm Pixi (cheaper parts and easier setup).
Prerequisites (Picture #1)
- Samsung Galaxy S5
- Palm Pixi Back Cover
- Palm Touchstone Charger
- Conductive Copper Tape
- Electrical Tape
- Palm AC/USB Wall Charger (although not required they work best with the Touchstone and are also very well rated as a stand-alone charger)
Negative Side Effects
- I've found is that this mod causes NFC to either not work at all or intermittently. I don't use NFC so it's not a problem for me.
- This creates a slight bulge in the back of the device. I haven't tested it but this could impact the water resistance of the device.
Instructions
1) Take the Palm Pixi back and remove the insert as indicated by the red and yellow arrows. I have found the best success starting in the bottom left corner, as indicated by the yellow arrow (Picture #2).
2) When removing the back be very careful not to lose the four metal discs, indicated by the four arrows. These discs are what hold the device to the Touchstone. There are many ways to keep these in place but for convenience sake I used electrical tape, the yellow arrow shows what they looked like before being covered (Picture #3).
If the discs do happen to fall out I find it useful to place the charging assembly on the Touchstone and then put the discs in the four corners and then tape them down. The Touchstone does all the alignment work for you!
3) Remove the back cover from your S5. Hold it in place on the Touchstone. Take the insert from the Pixi and apply it (black side up) to the S5 cover. Then take a US quarter ($.25 piece) and place it between the bottom edge of the USB space on the S5 and the table (Picture #4). Once you have it aligned tape down the Pixi insert with electrical tape (Picture #5). Take note of the two copper leads sticking out of the back of the insert for the next step.
Take extra care to make sure you don't cover the gray rubber pieces. One, because the electrical tape doesn't stick to them well. Two, because these are what make the device water resistant. As stated, I haven't tested the water resistance with the mod but let's not tempt fate, shall we?
4) Take the other part of your S5 and locate the two charging ports (indicated by the arrows in Picture #6). Run copper tape along the back of your device so that the two copper leads from Picture #5 connect to the port with the same number in Picture #6. Once you have a good connection cover the ports with electrical tape. The copper tape has a tendency to come out of the ports and the electrical tape holds it in.
I found it best to fold the copper tape in half lengthwise (so the adhesive was out on both sides) and then roll the ends of the tape over themselves to make it a little taller. I then pressed the ends down into the charging ports to give them a better connection (Picture #7).
5) Take the back of your S5 and hold it an angle above the back of the phone (as if you were going to put it on) and visually check to make sure that everything lines up as it should (Picture #8). If it does then close the cover and press down to make sure everything clicks in to place.
6) Plug the Touchstone in, place the new Palm S5 on the Touchstone and watch for charging notification.
If you find that you aren't getting a charge check to make sure the copper leads line up with the ends of the copper tape and that the copper tape has a good connection in the charging ports. Then close the case and try again.
Enjoy!
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Pictures 1 - 5: http://www.rwilco12.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=953&pid=1365#pid1365
Pictures 6 - 10: http://www.rwilco12.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=953&pid=1366#pid1366
Love it! I Would love to have an angled QI charger. I would like to point out, that I'm using the samsung charging cover and authentic samsung charging pad and I have zero issues and I'm running your rom and the wireless charging is flawless, however having it flat is an annoyance. Will give this a go if I can get my hands on the pixie block
Followup: The wireless charging cover from samsung adds bulk to the phone so it doesn't sit in the case properly anymore. If i was reading correctly, your method uses the stock battery door that came with the device?.
It's a shame I threw out my Palm Pre backcover and touchstone charger(s) when I got the HTC Evo. I still think it's a shame that WebOS didn't get the respect it deserved. Look what I found on Amazon though. Might have to check it out.
Edit: Read the text about the item, looks like Amazon did proof-read too well as I can "bid" on the item... lol
eeeeeeeeek said:
Love it! I Would love to have an angled QI charger. I would like to point out, that I'm using the samsung charging cover and authentic samsung charging pad and I have zero issues and I'm running your rom and the wireless charging is flawless, however having it flat is an annoyance. Will give this a go if I can get my hands on the pixie block
Followup: The wireless charging cover from samsung adds bulk to the phone so it doesn't sit in the case properly anymore. If i was reading correctly, your method uses the stock battery door that came with the device?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's one of the biggest perks I forgot about! The slant on the Touchstone is perfect for watching a movie in landscape mode or even just for a quick glance at the screen, no more needing to crane my neck to look down on the device.
But yes, I used the stock battery cover but it is a pretty tight fit with the mod and it does create a slight bulge.
I was originally going to try the Samsung wireless charging but I'm a cheapskate. lol
Ramer84015 said:
It's a shame I threw out my Palm Pre backcover and touchstone charger(s) when I got the HTC Evo. I still think it's a shame that WebOS didn't get the respect it deserved. Look what I found on Amazon though. Might have to check it out.
Edit: Read the text about the item, looks like Amazon did proof-read too well as I can "bid" on the item... lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow... I tried to read it and I don't even have a clue what it is!
I agree with you on every front, WebOS deserved a much better fate than winding up as the backbone for an LG TV. Good news is that you can still get Pre and Pixi back covers for dirt cheap on Amazon. I just bought two more Touchstones for $11.00 so they aren't that bad either.
S5 Wireless
On the back of the s5 (the actual back without the cover), you have the wireless slots. Wich one of those slots are negative and which are positive?
kushal100 said:
On the back of the s5 (the actual back without the cover), you have the wireless slots. Wich one of those slots are negative and which are positive?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm going by memory since I no longer have the phone but I'm 99% positive that the bottom one was.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Hi guys, I need a link for a Z3v disassembly video. I've searched extensively but only Z3 videos come up. Thanks in advance.
Aphex33 said:
Hi guys, I need a link for a Z3v disassembly video. I've searched extensively but only Z3 videos come up. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Perhaps you could try to look into Z2 dissamebly videos, because the Z3v body very closely resembles to the Z2 instead of the Z3. May I ask though, what are your intents and purposes with dissembling?
GigaSPX said:
Perhaps you could try to look into Z2 dissamebly videos, because the Z3v body very closely resembles to the Z2 instead of the Z3. May I ask though, what are your intents and purposes with dissembling?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have watched the Z2 disassembly video but the phones lower components are a bit different. I have a Z3v that needs a screen replacement. I was also hoping to install some thermal pads for cooling efficiency.
Pretty Much the Z2
clearionr said:
Any luck?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WARNING This post is long
I just opened up mine. (Back glass was cracked and audiojack had major problems.) and It is pretty much exactly just like the z2. You'll be able to manage no problem. I shot straight for the Audio jack which is just under the motherboard. You'll have to remove that no matter what you replace. However, some pointers.
1. REMOVE THE SD & SIM CARD SLOTS
2. Very tricky with the back glass panel. The adhesive on the rims of the phone comes off with ease with the help of a common hair dryer. But... there's is some kind of tape gel that is attached to the middle bottom half of the screen, attached to the battery. I had to grab a looong piece of plastic to gently coax the tape off. Pushing down on the battery and lifting the screen at the same time, slipping the tool gently in between. (If you've ever skinned an animal, it's allot like this)
Sadly, some of the black from the back of the screen remained on the tape. (Figure A) Don't get frustrated is what i have to say. Pull firmly, NEVER yank.
3. Don't forget that the NFC module is attached to the back glass. (Figure B & C) It's basically a sticker. Just peel it off gently and try not to bend it too much. And try to make the sticker fit exactly where it was on the old glass. There are some copper pokers that come into contact with it.
4. When trying to remove the battery, the wireless charging coil can stay attached to the battery. I almost mistakenly removed it.
5. Before removing the motherboard unscrew everything that you need to and gently disconnect all the connections. I found the camera, battery, main flex cable, antenna and audio jack. If you have removed the SD card and such, it should be loose. To remove the motherboard, you need to lift the side opposite of the micro USB connector first, then slide it out. The USB connector makes it so that the mother board can't be pulled up directly like in the Z2 video.
6. When removing the audio jack, there is a hole on the jack frame that was obviously meant to help you pull it out. It is stuck to the frame with some very strong water-proof adhesive. I just used a small screw driver that fit into the hole.
Well, that's all I needed. I din't want to go any further, but sadly if your front screen is cracked you'll have to remove EVERYTHING. The z2 video should be able to help you alot. When finished, clean, assemble, apply more heat (to the adhesive), then reseal the back glass with new adhesive. (You can find it on ebay) Clamp it for a bit to allow the adhesive to set and viola done.
I attached photos. But it's pretty much the Z2. :laugh: :good:
Astoras said:
WARNING This post is long
I just opened up mine. (Back glass was cracked and audiojack had major problems.) and It is pretty much exactly just like the z2. You'll be able to manage no problem. I shot straight for the Audio jack which is just under the motherboard. You'll have to remove that no matter what you replace. However, some pointers.
1. REMOVE THE SD & SIM CARD SLOTS
2. Very tricky with the back glass panel. The adhesive on the rims of the phone comes off with ease with the help of a common hair dryer. But... there's is some kind of tape gel that is attached to the middle bottom half of the screen, attached to the battery. I had to grab a looong piece of plastic to gently coax the tape off. Pushing down on the battery and lifting the screen at the same time, slipping the tool gently in between. (If you've ever skinned an animal, it's allot like this)
Sadly, some of the black from the back of the screen remained on the tape. (Figure A) Don't get frustrated is what i have to say. Pull firmly, NEVER yank.
3. Don't forget that the NFC module is attached to the back glass. (Figure B & C) It's basically a sticker. Just peel it off gently and try not to bend it too much. And try to make the sticker fit exactly where it was on the old glass. There are some copper pokers that come into contact with it.
4. When trying to remove the battery, the wireless charging coil can stay attached to the battery. I almost mistakenly removed it.
5. Before removing the motherboard unscrew everything that you need to and gently disconnect all the connections. I found the camera, battery, main flex cable, antenna and audio jack. If you have removed the SD card and such, it should be loose. To remove the motherboard, you need to lift the side opposite of the micro USB connector first, then slide it out. The USB connector makes it so that the mother board can't be pulled up directly like in the Z2 video.
6. When removing the audio jack, there is a hole on the jack frame that was obviously meant to help you pull it out. It is stuck to the frame with some very strong water-proof adhesive. I just used a small screw driver that fit into the hole.
Well, that's all I needed. I din't want to go any further, but sadly if your front screen is cracked you'll have to remove EVERYTHING. The z2 video should be able to help you alot. When finished, clean, assemble, apply more heat (to the adhesive), then reseal the back glass with new adhesive. (You can find it on ebay) Clamp it for a bit to allow the adhesive to set and viola done.
I attached photos. But it's pretty much the Z2. :laugh: :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the touch screen soldered to the LCD ? i want to buy this touch screen replacement(attachment), but i dont know if this has to be soldered or glued in any way to the LCD, i hope you can help me with this.
thanks
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sipermanight said:
Is the touch screen soldered to the LCD ? i want to buy this touch screen replacement(attachment), but i dont know if this has to be soldered or glued in any way to the LCD, i hope you can help me with this.
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I didn't go deep enough to see it. But if it's like the rest of the phone I'm betting it's sealed up very tight. I don't see a reason why Sony would want to weld it, but it's a good possibility.
However, I broke my back screen again (don't put metal headphones with your phone in a tight pocket.) I'm getting my replacement parts in about a week. I can check then if you're feeling really patient.
I recommend looking at the Z2 videos. Our screen most likely will be the same.
So this is my battery before swapping for a new one:
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"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
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"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
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And this is how it reads now, with an OEM "authentic" replacement for $12
Ripping apart the Axon7 and replacing the battery took about 40 minutes, and is certainly not for the faint of heart. But I think it will yield something good. Unfortunately I didn't take a screenshot of battery usage before I ripped out the old battery. After about a full day I'd have ~15% battery left. Lite usage
TPMJB said:
So this is my battery before swapping for a new one:
And this is how it reads now, with an OEM "authentic" replacement for $12
Ripping apart the Axon7 and replacing the battery took about 40 minutes, and is certainly not for the faint of heart. But I think it will yield something good. Unfortunately I didn't take a screenshot of battery usage before I ripped out the old battery. After about a full day I'd have ~15% battery left. Lite usage
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well, 1 charge isn't representative of anything. The first time that i tested with accubattery it reported about 3500 mAh even though the screen was off and all. By the 3rd charge it got down to 2400, and it stayed there.
It makes sense, though. Supposedly they can have anything between 2800 and 3600 mAh
Choose an username... said:
well, 1 charge isn't representative of anything. The first time that i tested with accubattery it reported about 3500 mAh even though the screen was off and all. By the 3rd charge it got down to 2400, and it stayed there.
It makes sense, though. Supposedly they can have anything between 2800 and 3600 mAh
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True, my battery is now reading a hair over 3000 mAh. Old battery read anywhere between 1800-2200. I definitely have better battery life now.
Bottom speaker grill isn't staying on :crying:
Yeah, accubattery is now hovering around 3050 mAh for battery capacity. A trip to work (45 minutes) and listening to music the entire way, I get down to around 95% battery. Before I would get from 76-82%.
I recommend the upgrade if your battery is sucking.
TPMJB said:
True, my battery is now reading a hair over 3000 mAh. Old battery read anywhere between 1800-2200. I definitely have better battery life now.
Bottom speaker grill isn't staying on :crying:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Superglue it, just put two very little drops on each side, then spread them so that they are not too high (if they do, they might go through the grill holes). If you ever want to take it out just use a knife or something, it comes out easily.
Choose an username... said:
Superglue it, just put two very little drops on each side, then spread them so that they are not too high (if they do, they might go through the grill holes). If you ever want to take it out just use a knife or something, it comes out easily.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would superglue come off well with a heat gun?
I'm at about 70% now, starting at 0530 this morning. Usually I'd be around 40-50% by now.
TPMJB said:
Would superglue come off well with a heat gun?
I'm at about 70% now, starting at 0530 this morning. Usually I'd be around 40-50% by now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I just pry the damn things off whenever i need to. If you glue them closer to the center you can just use a clip on one of the rightmost holes and push it left, and the tip will raise. put your finger there and tug a little, and the superglue will come off.
Of course there are better ways, i just don't care too much about that
New batteries usually need a couple of charge cycles to start showing their real capacity. One of the first instructions is to give a device full charge before first use. Good reason for that.
RobboW said:
New batteries usually need a couple of charge cycles to start showing their real capacity. One of the first instructions is to give a device full charge before first use. Good reason for that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Multiple charge cycles achieved.
Estimated capacity: 3125 mAh.
Can you post a link to the battery you ordered?
jungle35 said:
Can you post a link to the battery you ordered?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just search "axon 7 battery" and it's pretty much every yellow battery that says "OEM" on the listing.
Anyone have an idea of what tape to use to replace the original clear tape holding the speaker together? I'd rather not superglue
Should I buy this one from later 2017:
https://m.pt.aliexpress.com/item/32888267103.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&productId=32888267103&productSubject=32888267103&shortkey=vIj2uUzA&addresstype=600
Or this one
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32875595269/32875595269.html?shortkey=ZZfuYJFB&addresstype=600
Vaga Liki said:
Anyone have an idea of what tape to use to replace the original clear tape holding the speaker together? I'd rather not superglue
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just buy regular double sided tape from school materials, works very well for me
to be honest I bought both and will try the "3650" one first. I can't pass up the potential for extra battery....
I believe the yellow one is actually the oem.
Vaga Liki said:
to be honest I bought both and will try the "3650" one first. I can't pass up the potential for extra battery....
I believe the yellow one is actually the oem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 3650 mAh is fake. I just got it for a few days ago. They actually use oem, clean the zte label, and put a new label sticker around the battery. Not sure on the other 3650 mAh from losoncoer.
mickey36736 said:
The 3650 mAh is fake. I just got it for a few days ago. They actually use oem, clean the zte label, and put a new label sticker around the battery. Not sure on the other 3650 mAh from losoncoer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would you mind expanding on this? How did you discover it is fake or that the battery is OEM?
Dodgexander said:
Would you mind expanding on this? How did you discover it is fake or that the battery is OEM?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I peel off the sticker out and I saw some label that exactly match up the oem one. There is another guy on the facebook group ordered the same battery and inside it was the oem battery as well.
mickey36736 said:
I peel off the sticker out and I saw some label that exactly match up the oem one. There is another guy on the facebook group ordered the same battery and inside it was the oem battery as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much kind sir!
i bought mine few weeks ago and it's currently at 96%
I have watched the JerryRigsEverything video 100 times over and I'm scared about buying a new battery although it's becoming more of a need as my Accubattery is showing 1500mAh :,( and performance and stutters are everywhere.
being someone who has made tones of PCs before I feel like its very similar in putting the phone back together? I have a few questions.
1. How does it compare with assembling computers (if you have any experience)
2. With the adhesive on the battery and speakers, does the speaker grills and battery sticks back into place or should I result to super gluing the stuff back together?
3. Do I need to take apart the whole phone before taking the battery out? JerryRigs doesn't mention it is required but it seems like it could be an issue but if its quick to just pop it out and a fresh one back in i might stock up on more batteries