Z3v disassembly video? - Xperia Z3v General

Hi guys, I need a link for a Z3v disassembly video. I've searched extensively but only Z3 videos come up. Thanks in advance.

Aphex33 said:
Hi guys, I need a link for a Z3v disassembly video. I've searched extensively but only Z3 videos come up. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Perhaps you could try to look into Z2 dissamebly videos, because the Z3v body very closely resembles to the Z2 instead of the Z3. May I ask though, what are your intents and purposes with dissembling?

GigaSPX said:
Perhaps you could try to look into Z2 dissamebly videos, because the Z3v body very closely resembles to the Z2 instead of the Z3. May I ask though, what are your intents and purposes with dissembling?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have watched the Z2 disassembly video but the phones lower components are a bit different. I have a Z3v that needs a screen replacement. I was also hoping to install some thermal pads for cooling efficiency.

Pretty Much the Z2
clearionr said:
Any luck?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WARNING This post is long
I just opened up mine. (Back glass was cracked and audiojack had major problems.) and It is pretty much exactly just like the z2. You'll be able to manage no problem. I shot straight for the Audio jack which is just under the motherboard. You'll have to remove that no matter what you replace. However, some pointers.
1. REMOVE THE SD & SIM CARD SLOTS
2. Very tricky with the back glass panel. The adhesive on the rims of the phone comes off with ease with the help of a common hair dryer. But... there's is some kind of tape gel that is attached to the middle bottom half of the screen, attached to the battery. I had to grab a looong piece of plastic to gently coax the tape off. Pushing down on the battery and lifting the screen at the same time, slipping the tool gently in between. (If you've ever skinned an animal, it's allot like this)
Sadly, some of the black from the back of the screen remained on the tape. (Figure A) Don't get frustrated is what i have to say. Pull firmly, NEVER yank.
3. Don't forget that the NFC module is attached to the back glass. (Figure B & C) It's basically a sticker. Just peel it off gently and try not to bend it too much. And try to make the sticker fit exactly where it was on the old glass. There are some copper pokers that come into contact with it.
4. When trying to remove the battery, the wireless charging coil can stay attached to the battery. I almost mistakenly removed it.
5. Before removing the motherboard unscrew everything that you need to and gently disconnect all the connections. I found the camera, battery, main flex cable, antenna and audio jack. If you have removed the SD card and such, it should be loose. To remove the motherboard, you need to lift the side opposite of the micro USB connector first, then slide it out. The USB connector makes it so that the mother board can't be pulled up directly like in the Z2 video.
6. When removing the audio jack, there is a hole on the jack frame that was obviously meant to help you pull it out. It is stuck to the frame with some very strong water-proof adhesive. I just used a small screw driver that fit into the hole.
Well, that's all I needed. I din't want to go any further, but sadly if your front screen is cracked you'll have to remove EVERYTHING. The z2 video should be able to help you alot. When finished, clean, assemble, apply more heat (to the adhesive), then reseal the back glass with new adhesive. (You can find it on ebay) Clamp it for a bit to allow the adhesive to set and viola done.
I attached photos. But it's pretty much the Z2. :laugh: :good:

Astoras said:
WARNING This post is long
I just opened up mine. (Back glass was cracked and audiojack had major problems.) and It is pretty much exactly just like the z2. You'll be able to manage no problem. I shot straight for the Audio jack which is just under the motherboard. You'll have to remove that no matter what you replace. However, some pointers.
1. REMOVE THE SD & SIM CARD SLOTS
2. Very tricky with the back glass panel. The adhesive on the rims of the phone comes off with ease with the help of a common hair dryer. But... there's is some kind of tape gel that is attached to the middle bottom half of the screen, attached to the battery. I had to grab a looong piece of plastic to gently coax the tape off. Pushing down on the battery and lifting the screen at the same time, slipping the tool gently in between. (If you've ever skinned an animal, it's allot like this)
Sadly, some of the black from the back of the screen remained on the tape. (Figure A) Don't get frustrated is what i have to say. Pull firmly, NEVER yank.
3. Don't forget that the NFC module is attached to the back glass. (Figure B & C) It's basically a sticker. Just peel it off gently and try not to bend it too much. And try to make the sticker fit exactly where it was on the old glass. There are some copper pokers that come into contact with it.
4. When trying to remove the battery, the wireless charging coil can stay attached to the battery. I almost mistakenly removed it.
5. Before removing the motherboard unscrew everything that you need to and gently disconnect all the connections. I found the camera, battery, main flex cable, antenna and audio jack. If you have removed the SD card and such, it should be loose. To remove the motherboard, you need to lift the side opposite of the micro USB connector first, then slide it out. The USB connector makes it so that the mother board can't be pulled up directly like in the Z2 video.
6. When removing the audio jack, there is a hole on the jack frame that was obviously meant to help you pull it out. It is stuck to the frame with some very strong water-proof adhesive. I just used a small screw driver that fit into the hole.
Well, that's all I needed. I din't want to go any further, but sadly if your front screen is cracked you'll have to remove EVERYTHING. The z2 video should be able to help you alot. When finished, clean, assemble, apply more heat (to the adhesive), then reseal the back glass with new adhesive. (You can find it on ebay) Clamp it for a bit to allow the adhesive to set and viola done.
I attached photos. But it's pretty much the Z2. :laugh: :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the touch screen soldered to the LCD ? i want to buy this touch screen replacement(attachment), but i dont know if this has to be soldered or glued in any way to the LCD, i hope you can help me with this.
thanks
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sipermanight said:
Is the touch screen soldered to the LCD ? i want to buy this touch screen replacement(attachment), but i dont know if this has to be soldered or glued in any way to the LCD, i hope you can help me with this.
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I didn't go deep enough to see it. But if it's like the rest of the phone I'm betting it's sealed up very tight. I don't see a reason why Sony would want to weld it, but it's a good possibility.
However, I broke my back screen again (don't put metal headphones with your phone in a tight pocket.) I'm getting my replacement parts in about a week. I can check then if you're feeling really patient.
I recommend looking at the Z2 videos. Our screen most likely will be the same.

Related

Xperia Neo Disassembly

When you want to change your front case,LCD,... this can help =)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOE_Z-y8FUs
When you want full disassembly check this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-d-fdE6UDU
SĐF said:
When you want to change your front case,LCD,... this can help =)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOE_Z-y8FUs
When you want full disassembly check this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-d-fdE6UDU
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's professionally made
Thanks!
realy helpful 10x
Was anyone able to do this? I'm stuck on the sensor part! I can dettach the back part, but it's still stuck somewhere :\
EDIT: just did it. lots of parts were "glued" to the original front case, so i had to be very carefull taking them out.
Really Usefull..
Nice Video Tutorial, now i can change my backcover on my neo! thx
very useful, planning to get a white neo v case after warranty expired
i'm planning to remove a speck of dust between glass and Lcd
never seen something similar in a smartphone
chinese assembly ....
video has been archived for future use
I'm going to save the videos because I want to change the cover of my neo. Where do they sell the cheapest?
mondaza said:
I'm going to save the videos because I want to change the cover of my neo. Where do they sell the cheapest?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bought mine on ebay for about 25€ with the chrome parts + buttons.They're cheaper if you don't need these.
i want disassembly only the front cover to remove a little speck of dust under the glass, but is it so easy like appear?
The cover is glued to the phone or not?
Could be consequences for this procedure, can i compromit the air gap?
I don't want remove a speck of dust and then with the use collect 100 of them .
If i get the phone to service, i will lose all my mods .
Please, say me is a safety procedure and very very easy.
The neo doesn't have an air gap, Arc only. I think you will get only more dust, I had the samebon my older SE phone l
Via Tapatalk 2.0 on ICS
sdk16420 said:
The neo doesn't have an air gap, Arc only. I think you will get only more dust, I had the samebon my older SE phone l
Via Tapatalk 2.0 on ICS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you speak about the disassembly ?
Of course if you don't pay care, you can get more dust, you have to be fast and precise, not opening all the glass, but only a bit.
In someway the employe had to assembly it during the process and perhaps a little speck of dust remained between lcd and glass, but is is too visible under sun light.
If a careless employe allowed the access of a speck of dust, i can do better because i have not hurry, so i'm not worried about more dust during this process.
I ask you this question only to know if can enter more dust when the phone is again assembled.
Now, apart this speck of dust just out of the box, never entered dust in these months.
Okay that is a video to bookmark!
About a dust specle: Use a can with compressed air, I believe it's called Dustfree or something. Don't start with cotton swipes, you'll make it worse.
Hi,
I've disassemble my Sony Ericsson Xperia Neo V yesterday and mounted it again now with a white housing, but now whenever I make a call, as soon as I press on the CALL button the screen automatically goes black... as it happens with we put the phone in contact with our ear or head.
I disassemble and assemble it again a few times but still the same problem...
I'm guessing I've messed up the sensor, but I can not be sure...
Can someone help me?
Thanks in advance,
/Vitor
sepviri said:
Hi,
I've disassemble my Sony Ericsson Xperia Neo V yesterday and mounted it again now with a white housing, but now whenever I make a call, as soon as I press on the CALL button the screen automatically goes black... as it happens with we put the phone in contact with our ear or head.
I disassemble and assemble it again a few times but still the same problem...
I'm guessing I've messed up the sensor, but I can not be sure...
Can someone help me?
Thanks in advance,
/Vitor
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its surely the issue of your proximity sensor. Please re-check that once again and you'll be good to go
How do you detach the digitizer and sensors from the front plate? The glue doesn't really give and I'm scared of breaking the ribbon cable.
JN3141 said:
How do you detach the digitizer and sensors from the front plate? The glue doesn't really give and I'm scared of breaking the ribbon cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd like to know too please... though I've already broken the ribbon cable and am replacing the digitizer...
EDIT
Actually I meant I broke the small ribbon cable but anyway. I found out how to do it, take a thin, small and sharp knife then very gently cut away the glue, it should come off very easily. Then slowly prise the connected section of the phone, I don't know the name but the part with the orange cables. You will have to cut away more glue and you will also have to prise it off the rubber as it is quite firmly stuck in the rubber. Hope I helped, this image should help you figure what should dis-attach from the casing.
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JMSpurs said:
I'd like to know too please... though I've already broken the ribbon cable and am replacing the digitizer...
EDIT
Actually I meant I broke the small ribbon cable but anyway. I found out how to do it, take a thin, small and sharp knife then very gently cut away the glue, it should come off very easily. Then slowly prise the connected section of the phone, I don't know the name but the part with the orange cables. You will have to cut away more glue and you will also have to prise it off the rubber as it is quite firmly stuck in the rubber. Hope I helped, this image should help you figure what should dis-attach from the casing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you reassemble the phone, do you have to glue the sensors back? If you do, what type of glue do I use?
Sent from my Sony Tablet S using xda app-developers app

HTC Rezound Take Apart Repair Guide

This step by step installation repair guide shows how to disassemble the HTC Rezund cell phone quickly and safely. The guide is designed by the Repairs Universe team and will help you install replacement parts to repair your damage phone.
This guide will help you to install the following HTC Rezound parts:
HTC Rezound Touch Screen Glass Digitizer
HTC Rezound LCD Display Screen
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Torx T5 Screwdriver
Small Phillips Screwdriver
Adhesive Strips (For touch screen repairs)
Hot Air Gun / Hair Dryer
Steps:
First, remove the back battery cover, the battery and the sim card. Then remove 6 Torx Screws using T5 Torx Screwdriver.
Next, use safe pry tool then gently pry off all the edges to release the clips then remove the back housing bezel. Take note that the volume button and power button will likely to fall out. Once the back bezel is removed, a small circle covers sometimes fall out too.
The motherboard is now exposed and you need to remove 2 Phillips screws. Then remove the vibrate motor by simply pop it out then gently pull the plug from the socket.
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Figure 1​
Next gently lift the dock port to release the small flask bezel. Then simply lift the motherboard and swing to the right to remove the flex cable. The motherboard is now totally separated to the front housing.
Figure 2​
Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the front and back cover of the screen assembly to loosen the adhesive holding the touchscreen and the LCD screen.
Use safe pry then gently pry off at the back to loosen the held adhesive. Make sure not to damaged the flex cable. Now pry off the front screen to totally separate the front housing to the digitzer and the LCD screen.
Reheat the digitizer to loosen the held adhesive to remove the LCD screen from the digitizer. Make sure not to dig too far in to avoid damaging the LCD screen.
Your HTC Rezound is now fully disassembled. Reverse the instructions above to reassemble your phone.
Notice:
Repairs Universe's guides are for informat ional purposes only. Please click here for details.
Learn about restrictions on reproduction and re-use of Repairs Universe's repair/take-apart/installation guides, and about creating hyperlinks to our guides.
Nice guide. Thanks for sharing this. May finally crack mine to color the pink buttons.
Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
Thanks, dude! You are awesome!
There is a video guide on YouTube too just search "htc rezound repair".
Sent from my AT100 using Tapatalk 2
So the LCD is 'permanently' glued to the screen, rather than being held in by tabs and screws as in the Incredible? That sucks...
Hopefully someone will start selling the entire front bezel+digitizer assembly.
socal87 said:
So the LCD is 'permanently' glued to the screen, rather than being held in by tabs and screws as in the Incredible? That sucks...
Hopefully someone will start selling the entire front bezel+digitizer assembly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's just a bit of adhesive. They are not "permanently' glued / fused together. They can be easily separated.
griffstert said:
There is a video guide on YouTube too just search "htc rezound repair".
Sent from my AT100 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, thats our video - You can find the video here - HTC Rezound Screen Replacement Guide
JeramyEggs said:
Nice guide. Thanks for sharing this. May finally crack mine to color the pink buttons.
Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
let us know if you decide to do that...would love to see how it turns out1
alphabets said:
let us know if you decide to do that...would love to see how it turns out1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Around page 5 in this thread you will find posts about coloring the LEDs.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1362330
I think the hardest part is unlatching the ribbon. I tried to repair a broken screen in my previous INC and ended causing permanent damage on the ribbon.
Nice guide. My bezel is messed up and I was wondering if you guys will be stocking them any time in the future? If so when?
TB13 said:
Nice guide. My bezel is messed up and I was wondering if you guys will be stocking them any time in the future? If so when?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the positive feedback! We do not have the part in stock right now but we are always adding new stock. Feel free to check back on our site to see if we have the part available.
Thanks for posting this. I just dropped my phone and 1/4 of my lcd screen is out or stuck pixels. I just purchased from your store what I think i need to repair it. This will be my first time dissecting and repairing a phone and these kind of posts make all the difference.
Thank you very much and good luck with the repair! Let us know how it goes!
well......i replaced the screen. Not thinking that I got this from a warranty claim it had some more adhesive that was not on the video. I got the screen in and it looks great...but....I messed up the touchscreen. It randomly hits and also doesn't register other times....fail. So either ordering the digitizer and hope not to f up. Or try to sell this for someone who knows what they are doing and buy something else. Any advice?
for when you get it to come back on
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pQUn2GTymw&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Thanks for this! Subscribed to keep as a reference in case I need to dive into the phone in the future.
volcaicstrad37 said:
well......i replaced the screen. Not thinking that I got this from a warranty claim it had some more adhesive that was not on the video. I got the screen in and it looks great...but....I messed up the touchscreen. It randomly hits and also doesn't register other times....fail. So either ordering the digitizer and hope not to f up. Or try to sell this for someone who knows what they are doing and buy something else. Any advice?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like the touch screen maybe making contact with the LCD and this is why you are getting the issue.
Make sure you used the correct thickness adhesive between the LCD and digitizer to prevent this problem. This is shown in our repair video provided with the part.
Use our contact us form on the web site and we can assist you further if you have more questions.
quick question im replacing my lcd screen in my rezound and do i need to purchase adhesive to install it
dogredwing1 said:
quick question im replacing my lcd screen in my rezound and do i need to purchase adhesive to install it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes we recommend purchasing the adhesive strips also for during install.

DIY - How to replace cracked prime Screen? (Not solved yet)

The intention of this thread is to come up with do it yourself steps to replace a cracked prime screen. Replacement screens are easily available on ebay and cost about $100 USD.
Also the replacing should not be so tricky (once we know how) because there is no soldering or heat gun involved.
There have been a lot of teardown of prime's, but unfortunately none of them contain information on how to take out the glass + digitizer successfully.
I think here is how the prime screen is layered. In the front is the Gorilla glass. The second layer is the digitizer which is glued to the glass. The last layer is the LCD screen.
Here is an image of LCD panel of prime (Image from Anandtech teardown)
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Here is an image of how a replacement screen looks like
I have been able to perform the following steps so far..
1) Open prime (easy)
2) Unscrew 4 screws that hold the LED panel (easy)
3) Take off a few tapes (esp the yellow tape that holds the digitizer ribbon.
Steps I could not complete so far (hence speculating)
4) Pull off the LCD panel
5) Take off the two ends of the digitizer ribbon from the motherboard on the other half of prime. (unlatch the connector, and pull ribbon gently)
(at this point the Screen + Digitizer should be completely seperate from the rest of the body)
6) Take off the WIFI & WIFI + GPS plates from the top of the frame
7) Take the replacement screen, and put in the WIFI & WIFI + GPS plates
8) Place the LCD panel on the new replacement screen. Tape and screw in all 4 screws.
9) Connect both ends of the connector ribbon from digitizer to the motherboard
10) Make sure nothing is loose.
11) Attach both halves of the prime again
12) Turn on the tablet, and if screen comes on and you can interact with touch screen then we are done!
Sounds easy... it should have been easy too... just that I have not been able to figure out how to easily complete step 4 above.
Has anyone else been able to get past this step?
I will update this thread with any feedback provided and will mention your name in credits as well for sure.
Hopefully, once we can solve this, it should be much cheaper to fix cracked screens compared to RMA or third-party fixes.
EDIT : August 2nd
Thanks to 'Two Dogs', he found a recent thread where someone successfully replaced his prime screen. You need to have a shattered screen (like mine ) for his steps to work.
Look at the third last post on this thread
http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=1857530&p=71
The user has put in a lot of images as well.
So it's very doable!
really like the idea of this thread and what your doing here. I havent needed to take apart my prime yet and hopefully wont ever need to. good luck!
Yeah I agree. I've had this thing for a month and a half, and the screen already has 2 scratches and a rub mark that goes across the entire screen where (I guess) it rubs along the lower edge of the keyboard. The ridge between the keyboard and the trackpad. I'd love to be ble to replace it when it gets unbearable.
You need suction cup an heat gun or hair dryer an you must slowly heat all four corners and then you can remove old digitizer or cracked pieces of it. Its tricky but put it all back together is hard, because digitizer glass is so thin and fragile. Do not push it hard or it will crack.
I saw a movie on youtube for the original Transformer TF101.
I assume this is very similar.
For the TF101, the digitizer/glass was adhered to the lcd panel with 2-sided tape. He used an exacto knife and just inserted it between the two layers and went around the entire perimeter of the screen (think he had a heated one, but said a regular would work too. The heated one just slid through the tape better).
He made a mark on the blade of the knife so he would not insert it too far to risk damaging the ribbon cable (though your new screen should have the cables on them, so probably doesn't matter if you damage the old ones). Using the new replacement screen as a template, you should be able to mark your blade to get deep enough without getting too deep to risk damaging any components.
Here is a link to the video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brcZLrocBio
Start about 2 minutes into the video to see how he got the glass off (the first 2 minutes discuss dis-assembly, which you have already done).
ccrobin said:
I saw a movie on youtube for the original Transformer TF101.
I assume this is very similar.
For the TF101, the digitizer/glass was adhered to the lcd panel with 2-sided tape. He used an exacto knife and just inserted it between the two layers and went around the entire perimeter of the screen (think he had a heated one, but said a regular would work too. The heated one just slid through the tape better).
He made a mark on the blade of the knife so he would not insert it too far to risk damaging the ribbon cable (though your new screen should have the cables on them, so probably doesn't matter if you damage the old ones). Using the new replacement screen as a template, you should be able to mark your blade to get deep enough without getting too deep to risk damaging any components.
Here is a link to the video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brcZLrocBio
Start about 2 minutes into the video to see how he got the glass off (the first 2 minutes discuss dis-assembly, which you have already done).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
will open my prime again to test this theory over the weekend. Wish there was a youtube video though for 201.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
I'm interested in this, how do you open the prime to begin with?
I think i'll just buy a total screen replacement, about AU$120 on ebay, and just plonk the new one in, but I want to find out if i can easily open up the prime before i buy.
e: oh wait, that $120 product is simply the glass + digitizer. where do i go to find it for $70??
ee: nvm, i replaced 'prime' in my ebay search with tf201 and it found the cheaper one!

NABI 2 LCD Panel/Glass Removal

Well, it's finally happened. One of the kids managed to break the LCD screen on their Nabi 2.
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I was not there when it happened. I don't know the exact details. The kids were at their grandparents' house, and all I got was "one of the kids threw it!" The kids have thrown, dropped, kicked their Nabis in the past.... so no, I just don't know....
There is already a thread with some pictures of a tear down of the device (see just beneath this), but it does not include any details on replacing the LCD screen and glass.
byohaserd said:
Ok...So here we go...Got it fully apart..Took some pics. Maybe you guys can see something else that I didn't but it looks as if adding in wireless charging would be rather simple...Other than that I didn't really see anything of interest...what are your thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So first thing I did was remove the bumper, flip the device over, and remove the four screws in the corner of the tablet.
I then inserted a small screw driver (no place in particular) in between the two halves of the casing. If you look closely you can see the halves are held together with little clips. I unclipped the first few by working my way around with the screw driver and then was able to remove the rest by hand.
Working my way around, removing the clips I noticed that there are a couple of ribbon cables running from the LCD & digitizer to the board on the back half. Be careful not to yank on these cables as it can easily damage the connectors on the board.
The LCD panel is held in place from the rear by large plastic tabs.
I decided instead of cutting off one of the clips to remove the glass and pull the LCD panel out the front. In hindsight, it may have been a bad idea. I ended up shattering the glass into millions of tiny pieces (some of which ended up in my hand). It was then I decided to put on some protective gloves (Like these!).
The glass was held in place with double-sided tape. Not unlike many cell phones I have repaired screens on before. I used a heat gun to to make the tape more pliable and used a suction cup to pull up on the edges, but in the end no dice....
Amazon has replacement LCD panels listed for around $35 as well as Digitizer/Glass sets for the same price.... If I make the purchase and do the repair I'll be sure to update this thread,
Sorry to hear about your luck, nice thread to bookmark. Can you provide link to screen replacement?
Looking at ordering something like these.
NABI 2 Digitizer/Glass Set
NABI 2 LCD Panel
SMcC2 said:
Looking at ordering something like these.
NABI 2 Digitizer/Glass Set
NABI 2 LCD Panel
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice find did not know they sold it seperately.
Ordered the parts from the links in the previous post. The LCD works great, but unfortunately the Glass/Digitizer was DOA. I even hooked up the old one just to try and do a little trouble shooting and was actually able to get swipe to unlock and hit a few icons, whereas on the new one I got nothing. I have already RMA'd the glass and gotten a refund, so no complaints there. I ordered a new Glass/Digitizer from a seller in China a week ago, last I checked it was in San Francisco. I still plan on letting every one know how it goes.
I feel for you man, pulling out the glass on this thing was quite an arduous task.
The right ride, and bottom completely disintegrated in my hands up until the glue finally started giving out on me. Although, i spent more time cleaning up the left over glue than anything else.
I bought the same digitizer a month ago from the same seller listed, but due to scheduling conflicts with the owner of the tablet, I was not able to install it until tonight. Lo and behold, the part was DOA, and it's looking like I might have to eat the cost because of return policies. Such is life, I guess. I hope you have better luck than I have so far.
rex.torres said:
I feel for you man, pulling out the glass on this thing was quite an arduous task.
The right ride, and bottom completely disintegrated in my hands up until the glue finally started giving out on me. Although, i spent more time cleaning up the left over glue than anything else.
I bought the same digitizer a month ago from the same seller listed, but due to scheduling conflicts with the owner of the tablet, I was not able to install it until tonight. Lo and behold, the part was DOA, and it's looking like I might have to eat the cost because of return policies. Such is life, I guess. I hope you have better luck than I have so far.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know this is an old thread, I tried the new digitizer with one of the other kid's NABIs and it worked just fine. I don't remember the details, but there are different sub-versions of this tablet apparently.
I wonder if anyone else ever had any success. One of these devices was left in the sun and now the LCD is bleached.
not much luck
I've tried remove the LCD glass twice from these Nabi's and they are tricky. I used a heat gun but the adhesive their using is pretty strong and just won't give up the glass like some of the other devices I've taken apart.
Has anyone found a decent way to pull the LCD Glass away from the frame?
If you only need to replace the LCD, and not the digitizer, then you can open the unit, cut some or all of the plastic tabs behind the LCD, and remove it from the rear. It's not pretty, but the build is so tight, it shouldn't move around at all anyway. If you do need to replace the digitizer, best of luck to you buddy. That glass is a pain in the rear.
Also...
rex.torres said:
If you only need to replace the LCD, and not the digitizer, then you can open the unit, cut some or all of the plastic tabs behind the LCD, and remove it from the rear. It's not pretty, but the build is so tight, it shouldn't move around at all anyway. If you do need to replace the digitizer, best of luck to you buddy. That glass is a pain in the rear.
Also...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup. the LCD is fine. The digitizer glass is the PITA. I tried using packing tape to keep glass bits in, but the heat gun tends to melt the tape and shrink it lol.
Heat, and a very thin piece of plastic. Small gauge guitar pick comes to mind. Once you can get it wedged in there, you'll be fine. Patience. Also, if i remember correctly, the digitizer and front glass are one unit.
It may be more practical to break it on purpose. Unfortunately, my repair was a bad LCD that was made worse by a botched glass removal, and then further worsened by the digitizer being the wrong revision for that nabi.
If you do try to remove the LCD panel from the rear, that may make it easier to wedge something in the inner frame from the rear to try to remove the glass / digitizer assembly rather than trying to wedge something from the outside at an angle..

Let's remake the Shield tablet internal stylus holder on the k1!

So I opened up my Nvidia shield tablet k1 today and saw that the internal stylus holder is actually still there. For the reason of budget costs I guess Nvidia decided to remove the "hole" that once let you sheath your stylus there. I havn't found any tutorials online that showed how to cut a decent sized hole to let the stylus rest in. So I guess I'll ask.... has anyone done it before successfully here?
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I've done something similar with a dremel and a couple of files in the past. It's something I plan on doing on my K1 now that I have a brand new device to play with.
Considering the the age of the device, I doubt anyone has tried this out yet.
Drilling a hole in the side of the tablet seems extreme. I have been searching for a case that might be able to hold the styles as well but with no luck. I have flip cover for the k1 and have been trying to think of a good idea as how to stow the styles on to it. For example if I had a piece of stretchy material that I attached to the cover somehow I could slide the styles into the makeshift pocket and it could hold the styles when not in use.
Would I be right in thinking that the back cover of the older model would fit the newer one? Seems like it would be a nicer solution than drilling and cutting. You could possibly even get some of the missing internal components that way. Just need to find a broken 2014 tablet.
If this fails you can always do what I plan on doing in case this proves to be futile. Attach magnets to either like on the Surface Book. On a side note: The back cover already is "precut", as is the whole stylus mounting hole as seen here:
That is really interesting! They kept costs low by using the same molds to create the plastic parts.
A quick question seeing as you've opened your back cover already: is there a button/mechanism in the stylus groove that could potentially detect if a stylus is removed? Just wondering if they still left that in there (hopeful thinking! )
fl4r3 said:
That is really interesting! They kept costs low by using the same molds to create the plastic parts.
A quick question seeing as you've opened your back cover already: is there a button/mechanism in the stylus groove that could potentially detect if a stylus is removed? Just wondering if they still left that in there (hopeful thinking! )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly that module is missing, so no hopes there. The speaker cable is also in the way and has to be taped down or something to the frame if you want to fit the stylus later on.
I knew it was unlikely but thought it was worth checking.
At least there's a place to store a stylus (although after drilling into the tablet).
Guys....I did it. I just used a file and filed away, put the cover back on, and inserted the stylus. It's perfect. I would take a picture but I don't have a camera.
jacobvsmith said:
Guys....I did it. I just used a file and filed away, put the cover back on, and inserted the stylus. It's perfect. I would take a picture but I don't have a camera.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tablet + Mirror.
Sorry, could not resist pointing out the lack of a camera irony whilst talking of a device with 2 built in.
I will admit that probably wouldn't make come out at a good enough angle to show the work well, but hope you got a quick chuckle.
zarish said:
Tablet + Mirror.
Sorry, could not resist pointing out the lack of a camera irony whilst talking of a device with 2 built in.
I will admit that probably wouldn't make come out at a good enough angle to show the work well, but hope you got a quick chuckle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
post memes and op will give chuckles.
Please teach me how to do dis... Going to buy the stylus soon...
I just read this and thought I'd pop open my K1 to see for myself. Yep. It's there. Wow.
I'd drill a hole in mine too but I have two problems:
1. That cable.
2. Dust/Water etc.
Sent from my SM-G935V using XDA-Developers mobile app
Anyone drilled and try to make use of the stylus slot?
care to share some finished image?
would definitely like to see how it goes.
I "drilled" a hole also, the stylus sticks perfectly, but there was a cable in the way. just som sticky thingy to hold the cable and youre done
http://i.imgur.com/bX0YXMS.jpg
I did that too. Used some files and some crazy glue (for the cable). Works great. I have some pictures here http://forum.xda-developers.com/shield-tablet/general/modding-directstylus-slot-shield-k1-t3408090
operative1 said:
I did that too. Used some files and some crazy glue (for the cable). Works great. I have some pictures here http://forum.xda-developers.com/shield-tablet/general/modding-directstylus-slot-shield-k1-t3408090
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would probably cover the ribbon with tape to prevent the stylus from sliding on the cable over time. Kapton tape would be the tape to use. How did you shape the notch in the back cover. Also when filing the metal area for the cable did you not worry about filings getting on the mainboard.
mirrin said:
I would probably cover the ribbon with tape to prevent the stylus from sliding on the cable over time. Kapton tape would be the tape to use. How did you shape the notch in the back cover. Also when filing the metal area for the cable did you not worry about filings getting on the mainboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cable is covered in a mixture of super glue and fine powder. No worries about shavings since I worked under constant airflow from the mainboard side to blow dust and shavings away
As for shaping the notch I used some jewelers files that had the right curve to them.
Stylus sensor can generally be found with 'nvidia shield digitizer' on ebay - sellers currently parting out new original style tablets - not real cheap, but you get a spare digitizer!
Gremlin60 said:
Stylus sensor can generally be found with 'nvidia shield digitizer' on ebay - sellers currently parting out new original style tablets - not real cheap, but you get a spare digitizer!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But why would they leave the whole circuit and components for the sensor if the sensor is not there...
They did 2 things to the main board a radio microcode update and the sensor removed from assembly any capacitors or resistors on the pen sensor circuit should also be left out... In addition they do have 2 different updates for the 2 tablets I imagine the k1 does not have the sensor as an active element...
That said i dont see that there is a whole lot of extra functionality given aside from auto wake on pen removal....

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